[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 07:13:07 -0700
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series 1 80" for sale (1951) serial number 16101361 RHD
Email for the guy with the Series I for sale near here seems to be
working again:
JSMGREEN@msn.com
------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end
| Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 08:28:32 -0500 From: blainh@accent.net (Blain Hughes) Subject: Shocks I woder if anyone out there can help? I've asked this question before and got no responces. I'm just about finished the frame transplant on my 11a, which I started April 1. I want to replace the old shocks with a new set but I want to do it as cheaply as possible. Can anyone give me the number of other shocks which will fit a series car? Thanks Blain ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 15:56:55 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Au-pairs (Non LR content) Please excuse waste of bandwidth - but our family is looking for a new au-pair for the next year - if you know a reliable and creative english-speaking girl who might be interested in a year in Denmark - let her know about our au-pair homepage at http://home2.inet.tele.dk/channel6/aupair1.htm The ability to drive (or even repair!) a series III is preferred but not absolutely essential. Thanks folks! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY) Subject: Restoring Upholstery Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 11:23:43 -0500 Since we're on the subject of elephant's hide again, here's a question/situation that has left me in a quandry. My door trims are covered with this rare and elusive material; however, in a attempt to "update" the vehicle's appearance, the previous owner spayed them black with that upholstery paint sold by various car parts businesses. So, the question is obvious: is there any way to remove this colouring without causing irreparable damage to the material underneath. I know of several solvents that would undoubtedly break the paint, though I fear what they might do the elephant's hide beneath. Any suggestions/experiences would be appreciated. Brian ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 19:33:01 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: SIII Diesel running HOT! Hi all, My 109" has just started running rather hot (near the red on the temp meter) - even when driving gently and at low speed - a short run into town and back for a loaf of bread (6 km each way) brought it from cold up to just under the red. Yes the muffler is taken off! Oil temp and pressure normal, radiator full of coolant, no funny noises from water pump, engine running very smoothly, no dripping oil (other than the normal) - so question is what is the cause? The weather has just become unusually warm - but in Denmark that's still around the 20 - 25 degrees C - so that's not the problem. Could it be the thermostat? Someone please remind me - is the stat normally open or closed, and can I improve cooling effect by removing the thermostat until the winter? Anyone have a quick tip for this one? thanks. -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Christian Kuhtz <chk@frii.com> Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 11:47:01 -0600 (MDT) Your thermostat opens when the engine has reached its proper temperature. I guess, if it corrodes and permanently sticks in the closed position, your engine might overheat. However, I've never seen that happen that way -- on most vehicles I have seen, a faulty thermostat is only recognized in the winter time when there's no heat in the heating system because the coolant doesn't circulate thru the heater coil. But, yes, my guess would be the thermostat, even though I've never seen a landie do that.. ;-) Yes, if you rip it out until winter, you should be fine. Usual disclaimers apply. -- Christian Kuhtz <chk@gnu.ai.mit.edu> "Humbly speaking for myself only." ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 14:09:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! In a message dated 97-06-08 13:34:16 EDT, you write: << My 109" has just started running rather hot (near the red on the temp meter) - even when driving gently and at low speed - a short run into town and back for a loaf of bread (6 km each way) brought it from cold up to just under the red. >> Hi Adrian, Does the water temp meter go up right after you start or if you merely turn the key to the on position? If so, the problem is probably the sending unit. I thought I had I overheating problem which turned out to be the sending unit. If it is the thermostat, then the problem should go away when the thermostat is gone. If the problem persists, it could still be water pump or the meter. If there's no noise from the waterpump and it turns easily by hand, then I'd rule out the waterpump for now. Finally, you might get a candy thermometer and when the engine gets up near the red, open the radiator cap (cover with a heavy towel before opening to prevent a steam burn if it really is overheating) and directly measure the temp in the radiator. It should be a few degrees cooler than the actual engine but if the water pump is running and thermostat is opening, it will be close to accurate. If the meter is way off from the thermometer reading, the problem is 1) in the sender unit (overly sensitive and therefore losing resistance too quickly), 2) in the voltage stabilizer (behind instrument panel) I don't have a good test for that. or 3) in the meter itself (again I don't have a test for that one) Good Luck, Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 19:06:00 +0100 From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@MAGNET.MT> Subject: 90 checklist I am going to buy a 1987 landrover 90 Turbo Diesel. What have I to inspect and check to be sure that the machine is in sound condition? Geoffrey ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 20:36:48 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! NADdMD@aol.com wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > In a message dated 97-06-08 13:34:16 EDT, you write: [ truncated by list-digester (was 39 lines)] > Nate > NADdMD@aol.com Hi Nate! You are a brick! (blue-brick?) I think you may be onto soemthing here! One of my staff drove the 109 on friday and when he came home, he said it was running hot. I check it yesterday, took it for a drive - NO PROBLEM! Today I went for a short run, and noticed that it was up in the red. So I presumed that i hadn't "run her hard enough" yesterday and that she was running hot. Then I got you mail, and for the first time actually checked the reading when cold (well luke warm actually - my short run was about 2 hours ago) The meter runs straight up to the red when I turn on the ignition, without engine running. Does this mean that the fault is in my sender unit? All other meters and electrics are showing normal behaviour. What does a pathologist think about it (besides saying that "despite the fact that the patient didn't survive the operation, the operation was a success") :-) thanks! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 21:56:59 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Homepage search criteria - advice needed (NO LR) I have a small question which I guess someone on lro must know the answer to. If you search the net using a search engine (Alta Vista, Yahoo, Excite etc.) you find sites which are related to your enquiry. If you are making a site, how do you ensure that other people will be able to find it - do you have to "tell" the search engines that you exist? Or do they just find you, and if so, how soon? Are there any tricks you can use to speed up this process or to ensure wide coverage? I am making homepages using Netscape Gold 3.0 if that is at all relevant - are there any special functions for pre-setting which keywords other users will find you by? Adjusting a Zenith 361V is peanuts compared to this! If you know the answer - please drop me a line, better direct to save the bandwidth which i am already wasting thanks. -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 14:06:20 -0700 (PDT) From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper) Subject: Pigtails on tailgate I just picked up a tailgate and am wondering which direction the galvanized pigtail shaped parts face? I assume that they are for the securing chains, though I do not know which direction on the tailgate they are to be mounted. Thanks for any reply, John Cooper 1969 11a P.S. Warning, easily confused person. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 23:20:10 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Pigtails on tailgate John & Sandy Cooper wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > I just picked up a tailgate and am wondering which direction the galvanized [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)] > Thanks for any reply, > John Cooper 1969 11a P.S. Warning, easily confused person. Inwards - towards the cab - and if you use chains, cover them with hosepipe or leather tubes - otherwise you get your own tailgate symphony - all the time! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 15:50:19 -0600 From: alan boyer <aboyer@intermountain.com> Subject: unsubscribe unsubscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@odin.cair.du.edu> Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 16:06:09 +0000 Subject: Re: Homepage search criteria - advice needed (NO LR) Adrian Redmond asks (and I'm responding to the list since many of us maintain web pages and can benefit from exchanging notes): [ If you search the net using a search engine (Alta Vista, Yahoo, Excite [ etc.) you find sites which are related to your enquiry. [ If you are making a site, how do you ensure that other people will be [ able to find it - do you have to "tell" the search engines that you [ exist? Or do they just find you, and if so, how soon? Are there any [ tricks you can use to speed up this process or to ensure wide coverage? Some search engines will find you and index you eventually no matter what, but as the web continues to grow this becomes more and more problematic. Search engines may also drop you from their index. This is especially true of engines like Yahoo! which are really a selective catalogue. Commercial software is available which will submit your pages to many search engines at once and automatically resubmit if they happen to drop you. If you have a web-based business, this is probably worth the effort. Click on help in Altavista, and you will find out what they do with META tags. You generally need META tags to create a clean display and good index in a search engine. Every search engine behaves differently, so it is best to read their help pages in order to tweak them to advantage. I think you can pay search engines to ensure that your keywords come up first in a search, but I don't have a business so I'm not savvy on these tricks. Altavista requests that you submit only your main page, and it will index it almost instantly. It will then send out a spider to index all the pages you have linked to the main page. This takes a week or two. T.F. Mills tomills@du.edu http://www.du.edu/~tomills University of Denver Library, Denver, Colorado 80208, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 18:23:06 -0400 Subject: Re: Exporting....was Warning!... Anything pre 1967 (maybe 1966 in California) has ALWAYS been legal for import to the US with no restrictions - California inititated emission controls on the 1966 model year cars sold in that state but I don't think they required anything on used cars from that year model that were later brought in - The way the current rules are being interperted is any thing over 25 years old is fair game; just make sure that you have a bill of sale stating the year of manufacture of the vehicle that can be matched to a serial number on the car. There should be no problems bringing in an early fifties Land Rover. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 18:09:55 -0700 From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Pigtails on tailgate Pigtails pointed down. Regards, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 19:34:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! In a message dated 97-06-08 14:38:02 EDT, you write: << Does this mean that the fault is in my sender unit? All other meters and electrics are showing normal behaviour.>> Yes. The sending unit is bad. It is located on the right hand side at the front of the engine. (Haynes manual has the cold start sending unit mistakenly labelled as the temperature sending unit, so don't look at the pic! ;) <<What does a pathologist think about it (besides saying that "despite the fact that the patient didn't survive the operation, the operation was a success") >> I've never had a complaint about my work, from a patient. :) Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 08 Jun 97 20:17:19 EDT From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Oil filter mod Hi all: It's good to be back with greasy fingers. I hope this wasn't a recent thread since I've been remiss in digesting my digests but does anyone have current info on where and how to get a spin-on oil filter adapter for a 2.25l petrol engine? I had a Toronto number but it was obviously wrong. I'll cure this damn leak with a welder if I have to (not really but I'm tempted). Thanks for the info. Steve Rochna Va. Beach, Va. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CBeireis@aol.com Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 21:13:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! I'd check the thermostat, normally they are fully closed when cold and open when they reach operating temp. I had a problem in my RR with it fluctuating-it had stuck between the open and closed position which is fortunate than having it stuck fully closed. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 20:27:33 -0700 From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Oil filter mod 1-416-504-5637 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 22:10:36 -0500 From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com> Subject: Re: Oil filter mod At 08:17 PM 6/8/97 EDT, you wrote: >New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ >Hi all: [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)] >It's good to be back with greasy fingers. I hope this wasn't a recent thread >since I've been remiss in digesting my digests but does anyone have current info >on where and how to get a spin-on oil filter adapter for a 2.25l petrol engine? >I had a Toronto number but it was obviously wrong. I'll cure this damn leak [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] >Va. Beach, Va. >Steve- I'm not sure if this info is accurate or still valid but what the hey - Jeff Ham (540)427-5715 in Roanoke was reputed to have some of the spin-on adapters. Let me know what you come up with. Cheers, Wes Harris '66 IIA 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 22:35:27 -0400 From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@mail.bright.net> Subject: Re: 3.9L Distributor Source Needed Brian Cramer wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > Hi All, [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)] > '90 RR County > '73 SIII SWB brian, give us a call. we should be able to help. thanks, ted -- Ted Schumacher TS Imported Automotive 404 Basinger Rd. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Ph. 800/543-6648 (sorry, USA only) Ph. 419/384-3022 - tech./general information FAX 419/384-3272 - 24 hrs New-Used-Rebuilt-NOS-Performance British car parts. We also have used sports cars for sale. Always 200 - 300 cars for parts in our British-only salvage yard. For the finest in British car apparel, accessories and regalia, be sure to check with our MotoringXtras store. We also have an extensive line of Black & White checkered race-theme apparel. Same address and phones. Check it out!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 10:32:27 -0700 From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Oil filter mod Steve Stoneham wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > 1-416-504-5637 Hi Steve! I got 416-284-7103 as his phone # and 416-504-5637 as his fax #. Do I need straightening out again? Regards, Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 23:22:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net>
Subject: Door Post Replacement Advice Needed....
Trying to put on one of my new door post replacements on my Series III
today. I got the post in place, but found that the hole in the foot part
of the post doesn't line up with the hole in the chassis outrigger. This
is a two piece replacement post(one piece with the hinge holes, and the
foot separate). The hole in the foot of the door post is about 1/2" below
the hole in the outrigger.
Anyone with suggestions or experience in replacing these?!
Thanks for any help! John
John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA
The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323th Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO"
------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end
| Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 09:28:45 -0400 From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net> Subject: Re: Assorted Questions, Ser IIa 109" SW Bren & Lynne' Workman wrote: > Hi, Folks, > The PO of my '65 Ser IIa 109" SW did a shoody job of door weather [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)] > '72 Ser III 88" "Tilly" > '65 Ser IIa 109" SW "Baldwin" ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 09:34:26 -0400 From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net> Subject: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT! Everyone congratulate my wife, Lynne'. She is the first member of the family to break a half shaft. I'm so proud. I'm going to press my luck by letting her drive to and from work this week in front wheel drive. That's the problem with breakages on Sundays, not enough time to fix before Mondays. Is this a bad idea? Any tricks to dropping the diff (other than DON'T drop the diff)? Thanks and Lynne' sends her "ROVE ON!", Bren. Bren Workman Ft. Wainwright, AK '72 Ser III 88" "Tilly" '65 Ser IIa 109" SW "Baldwin" ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 03:10:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT! I'd check something easy first, like a loose fanbelt. It could be a thermostat, it could be a temp. transmitter (if you have an electronic gauge), or, even a bad capillary tube, or a bad gauge altogether. Are you running coolant/antifreeze in the system? Or, just water (could be a plugged radiator)? As for the thermostat causing the heater to not work - I doubt it, since the coolant that's already in the engine is hot, and with a stuck thermostat, there's no way for it to get back to the radiator. Now, if the heater valve was stuck... Charles 1962 SIIA 109 3dr diesel (never even had a temp gauge!) ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 03:23:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Remember D-Day! To Jim Allen... I agree. We should all remember the lads that fought and died on that day, as well as those who fought and died in every engagement since, for the purpose of freedom. Without them, many people here would not be able to crack jokes about "cat recipies". Something to think about. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 11:21:29 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT! Bren & Lynne' Workman wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > Everyone congratulate my wife, Lynne'. She is the first member of the [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] > Ft. Wainwright, AK > '72 Ser III 88" "Tilly" > '65 Ser IIa 109" SW "Baldwin" Advice is, don't drive it! Wherever the side (half) shaft has sheared (either in the crown wheel or in the hub) the two pieces will be grinding against each other continually, producing little bits of metal which WILL get into the wheel bearings, etc. You will probably find that, after a couple of days of driving in front wheel drive, that you also get to replace your wheel bearings, seals, crown wheel and pinion AND the half shaft - Yipee! Although emergency recovery driving with a broken half shaft is possible, if you intend doing more than just limping home you should remove the rear prop shaft. Regards Paul Oxley "into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine http://www.adventures.co.za "AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here... http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 19:04:51 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Diesel running HOT!
Adrian,
Don't remove the 'stat completely - the engine won't heat evenly and could
really ruin your day.
>From the sound of it, I'd suspect a stuck 'stat, followed by a
dead/dying/messed up electrical gauge (voltage regulator stuck?) or low
coolant or an air bubble caused by a leaking hose.
Simple, eh? 8*)
Swap the stat, or if you're really cheap, toss it in a pan of water on the
stove with a thermometer. The 'stat should be full-open at the rated
temperature of the thermostat (74 or 82C, depending on your loyalties - I
would suspect 82 for you).
I'd just swap it, with an eye on the coolant level and quality.
ajr
------------------------------
[ <- Message 31 -> end
| Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT! Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 11:28:59 +0200 (MET DST) Paul writes: | Although emergency recovery driving with a broken half shaft is | possible, if you intend doing more than just limping home you should | remove the rear prop shaft. That won't help if you don't remove both half shafts, too. Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 18:59:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Restoring Upholstery
Brian,
Not sure this will work, but considering what it does to the psint on my
pedals it's worth a try.
Take a rag and wet it with some cheap DOT3 brake fluid. Test it first on
the inside of the door trim or some such inconspicuous area, then use the
brake fluid as a paint remover to clean the material.
Near as I can remember from spills, it didn't mess up the material but it
does remove paint. Put it on, let it sit, then wash it off with water
(brake fluid is hygroscopic...).
Might work - but try it on an inside corner first.
Alan R.
------------------------------
[ <- Message 33 -> end
| Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 11:35:17 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT! Franz Parzefall wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > Paul writes: [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)] > Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de > http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz True! Silly me... OK, advice then is: "Don't drive the truck at all!" Regards Paul Oxley "into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine http://www.adventures.co.za "AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here... http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT!
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 97 10:42:00 PDT
Is removing the rear propshaft really going to help? Surely the half shaft
will still be turning? I'd have thought that the broken halfshaft would need
to be removed as soon as possible.
Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
----------
From: Paul Oxley
Subject: Re: FIRST BROKEN HALF SHAFT!
Date: 09 June 1997 11:21
New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
Bren & Lynne' Workman wrote:
> New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
> Everyone congratulate my wife, Lynne'. She is the first member of the
[ truncated by lro-lite (was 14 lines)]
> Ft. Wainwright, AK
> '72 Ser III 88" "Tilly"
> '65 Ser IIa 109" SW "Baldwin"
Advice is, don't drive it!
Wherever the side (half) shaft has sheared (either in the crown wheel or
in the hub) the two pieces will be grinding against each other
continually, producing little bits of metal which WILL get into the
wheel bearings, etc. You will probably find that, after a couple of days
of driving in front wheel drive, that you also get to replace your wheel
bearings, seals, crown wheel and pinion AND the half shaft - Yipee!
Although emergency recovery driving with a broken half shaft is
possible, if you intend doing more than just limping home you should
remove the rear prop shaft.
Regards
Paul Oxley
"into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine
http://www.adventures.co.za
"AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here...
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com
------------------------------
[ <- Message 35 -> end
| Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 05:49:24 -0700 From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Oil filter mod Con P. Seitl wrote: > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > Steve Stoneham wrote: [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > Regards, > Con Seitl Hi Con!! That's what I get for using one of your previous posts! (I took the info from an email you'd posted earlier)If nothing else all these erroneous phone numbers are great for long distance carriers! Better go with your latest info... Regards, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF * LIST DIGEST Input: messages 35 lines 1427 [forwarded 158 whitespace 308] Output: lines 997 [content 649 forwarded 54 (cut 104) whitespace 269][ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| Back | Forward | |
|---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
| ||