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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 06:57:38 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Car Wash and Land Rover

My dear spouse, who does not share my enthusiasm for Solihull products,
reacted to the posting about a newly Warwick-rebuilt Land Rover in Florida
getting fried after a car wash as follows:

1. If you don't start the engine with the key, what do you start it with?
Is this another reason to bash the dead spot (between the shoulders) with a
wrench?

truck and a $25 bill. I was ready to bash your dead spot with a wrench, if
i remember correctly.)

2. Why wash a Land Rover? Or if you are a car-washing type, why buy a Land
Rover?

3. Why should someone buy one in Britain? Aren't there any dead ones
serving as alligator incubators in Fla.?

"I approve of my husband's car. It keeps him off the streets." -- me.

--------------------------------------------------------------
Ned Heite, P O Box 53 Camden, Delaware 19934------------------
Wool Camp in Iceland:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland------------
Delaware history: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html -----
God gave us our relatives,------------------------------------
but thank heaven we can choose our friends -------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 07:00:22 -0500
Subject: 109 for sale - Vancouver, Canada

Clinton Coates, an ex- and soon to be again member of the list, forwarded
this to me about a 109 for sale in the Vancouver area (at tthe local Toyota
dealership).
Seems like this is  a nice project that could be real sweet with some
work...

I know nothing personally about this one, other than what you see here.
PLEASE don't email me about it - call the number below.

                         Al Richer

-1969 SW in Olive Drab
-Body is pretty well straight.
-Doors etc close well.
-Interior is original-tatty, but all there, even the upholstery looks
good
-The frame will need some welding, esp. the front outriggers.  I did not
crawl around with an icepick yet.
-The swivel balls are pitted and the seals are leaking.
-Warne FW hubs, so no promises on the condition of the swivel pins.
-The motor is a 2.25 8:1 lump with a ?carburettor (perhaps GM?).  It
sounds just fine
-+- 90K original miles.
-No idea about gearbox or drivetrain.
-Probably a bit of welding on the firewall, esp low on the drivers side
-The truck gave off a pretty good 'feel' to me

This would be a really nice resto project for someone who has welding
capabilities, or the base for a really nice frameover.  IT would probably
last a couple of years as a driver as well before being fixed.  I would buy
it myself, but am short of cash and space, and  I already have an 80"
project to keep me occupied.....

I think if someone showed up there with a wad of cash, a manual, greasy
overalls and an icepick, they would get a good deal, especially if armed
with some equivalent pricing info.

Oh yes.  The name to call is Steve at (250) 554-6000

PLEASE help save this truck

Regards,

Clinton

------------------------------

From: CBeireis@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 07:55:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 50 per cent off New Defenders!

: I want one, I'll take some vacation time and put it together!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 07:54:45 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Misc Postings...

     All,
     
     With this weekend's Digests, I now have *3* phone #s for Paul 
     Sochotiuk's spin-on adapters, two start with "504-" and one with 
     "204-".  Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over.
     
     Bonnet strengthening.  I have two deluxe Series bonnets, both carried 
     spares and both were cracked on both sides.  After stopdrilling the 
     dished bonnet, had the crack welded, then riveted in a full-length 
     section of aluminum L-channel under the left and right edges of the 
     bonnet underside.  It's been fine since.  Am still investigating 
     moving the Def spare to the bonnet, and haven't yet heard of a 
     "strengthening kit," but would also be interested if there is such a 
     thing before designing and installing my own strengthening kit on the 
     new car.  
     
     Re: "Off-Roading in Arkansas" ... You have roads in Arkansas??  ;-)
     
     Re:  Knocked-down Defs to be sold by LR ... I can picture the ad now 
     in the color supplement to the Sunday paper.  "Real metal parts, 
     wheels actually steer, authentic in every detail, for only four easy 
     payments of $4500.00.  Hardtop extra.  Picture shows model smaller 
     than actual size."
     
     Hank
     1960 Long SW
     1997 Short SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:17:24 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Landy site up at last!!!!

Hi all!

At long, long last I've found the time to add some content to my Landy
Corner (http://www.adventures.co.za/landy/index.htm). I've been
promising forever, now here it is. Please tell me what you all think...

By the way, I've started documenting the manufacture of a new design of
sideshaft (halfshalt, "axle", whatever). Check it out and give comments
please (under the "Technical" button).

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za
http://africanadrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 05:31:59 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Fuel Pump?-Power Loss

Help!
SIII SWB Petrol
On a recent trip up into mountainous terrain my rover progressivly loss power
going uphills.  This is new.  It would slow to about 25mph and buck like a big
dog if I tried to accelerate.  It finally died on the approach to my final
destination about 100miles from my starting point (this power loss started at
about the halfway point.  

I removed the fuel pump and cleaned it (did not have any replacment parts). 
Replaced it blew out the fuel lines to ensure they where clear.  The pump
however would not prime when I tried the hand pump.  I can suck fuel through
the pump. The engine will burn gas if I pour it directly into the carb.  The
pump looks a little different from the description in the Haynes manual.  It is
the type with the sediment bowl but does not have a plate and screw holding in
the valves.  It has a marking on the upper part that says type E on the lower
Type F.  

Is it the pump?
Should I rebuild the pump?
Get a new pump?

Thanks 
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 21:45:12 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump?-Power Loss

Paul Gussack wrote:
> Help!
> SIII SWB Petrol
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Thanks
> Paul G
> SIII SWB "Grendal"

I would go and get a new fuel pump. They're not that much compared to 
being stranded 50 miles from home on a Sunday afternoon in the pouring 
rain with a dead cell phone battery, and to make matters worse, the wife 
could be with you and she's wearing high heels, so that means YOU gotta 
walk for help.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:06:05 +0000
From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Regarding battery charging!!

Hi
I have SII2a Petrol, itīs got one 12v 65 AH battery. I have a question for
you regarding it. The thingf is that i dont know what the ampmeter should
read, is supposed to read, max 6-10 A or is it OK if it goes as high as 30
A?? - Can I ruin the battery?? - It goes that high when the engine is cold!
- but drops to ca. 5A when hot!!

Thanx

Olafur Agust

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:18:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Regarding battery charging!!

If you're reading 6-10 amps running hot, you're doing fine.

The reason you're getting a 30-odd amp reading when cold is that the
battery's just started the engine and is making up for lost
charge. Once that's done, the charging circuit will settle down to 5-10
amps to supply the losses from the use of headlights,
engine use, and so forth.

Sounds perfectly normal to me.

               Alan

------------------------------

From: finchm@sky3.bskyb.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:54:29 +0000
Subject: 50% off Defenders

Could the person who wrote the orginal letter on this subject, please send
me another copy, as the works mail server broke down and lost all of my
mail. Thanks

Yours Mark

Diesel Lightweight
SIIA SAS Pink Panther

------------------------------

From: n4ptk@InfoAve.Net
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:15:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump?-Power Loss

>Help!.....SIII SWB Petrol......recent trip up into mountainous terrain
......progressivly loss power...going uphills.
>,,,removed fuel pump..cleaned it
Hi Paul,
	You didn't say anything about the fuel tank itself.  I had
a similar experience with an old truck a few years ago.  The culprit,
after putting a lot of grey hair on my head, turned out to be a shop
towel someone has apparently been using insteal of a fuel cap.  It
had fallen into the gas tank where it had been floating around for
centuries.  When I would start up a steep grade, it would float back
and cover the outlet to the fuel line coming up front to the pump, and
the truck would smother down and die.  I would blow into the fuel line
and all was well.  Next time it would float back on the next hill and
the truck would die.  Like to drove me crazy.  I finally took off the
gas tank and emptied it.  Out came the culprit.  Still red like the day
it was lost.

Larry
n4ptk@infoave.net

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:52:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Misc Postings...

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, Hank Lapa wrote:

>      With this weekend's Digests, I now have *3* phone #s for Paul 
>      Sochotiuk's spin-on adapters, two start with "504-" and one with 
>      "204-".  Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over.

	He is in Toronto, on Adelaide street.  Now, while I am not
	sure where in TO that is, Toronto is 416.  If just outside the
	city, the area code is 905.  He is on 451 Aledaide West, Toronto,
	Ontario, Canada, M5V-1T1.  Oh yeah, Socholotuik

	

>      Bonnet strengthening.  I have two deluxe Series bonnets, both carried 
>      spares and both were cracked on both sides.  After stopdrilling the 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>      1960 Long SW
>      1997 Short SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 00:05:50 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump?-Power Loss

n4ptk@InfoAve.Net wrote:
> >Help!.....SIII SWB Petrol......recent trip up into mountainous terrain
> ......progressivly loss power...going uphills.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Larry
> n4ptk@infoave.net

I had a similar problem. I was to attend the Winter Safari in Maine in 
1995 and put my 1973 88 in the garage for a refit. Put on new outriggers, 
rear cross-member,wiring, Kodiak heater and new gas tank along with a 
host of other stuff to do, as everyone should well know. Headed out 
midnight on the appointed day with my eldest son. Left Nova Scotia and 
into New Brunswick when I started having fuel problems. After 4-5 hours 
of chugging along and stopping to find the problem, I emptied out the 
windshield washer resevoir, filled it with gas from the jerry can, ran a 
line to the carb direct and gravity feed it. Worked great! Only could get 
about 5 miles down the road before I had to stop and fill the "tank" Next 
day in daylight I ended up taking the fuel line out of the gas tank out 
of desperation. I knew the tank was new so didn't expect anything out of 
sorts. What I did find was pink building insulation in the pick-up tube. 
The gas tank was in my "stock room" of the garage, the attic, where the 
insulation was all exposed. I had blown out the tank with air before 
installing it, but these bits must have stuck to a small burr or 
something. 
 PS. This was only one of the many events we experienced on the trip, 
State Police, 2 fires, no lights, got lost, to mention a few! My son 
describes it as the "Trip to Hell"
  
 Con Seitl
 1973 III 88 "Pig"
 1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

From: "@lucent.lucent.com":@cbgw1.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 11:43:48 -0500
Subject: LR's in CR (Costa Rica)

Hi all,

I got back from CR last Wd. night, what a place for LRs to live!
Other than a few major roads, inc. Pan-American rt.1, the roads are not
paved.  Even in the dry season (now) it was fun just gettin around on
some secondary roads, even tho' we had a rented Sidekick.
It seems that these roads in wet season are quite a handful

I saw many SII and IIa 88's, but only a few 109s, 1 D90, 1 Disco and a
bunch of older RRs.  
Did they make Series trucks there from CKDs, anybody?
Also saw a huge number of fj-40s, seemed to be generally in better shape
than the LR's.  Talked to 1 guy who was selling his (very nice) SII 88,
he was asking ~$3500.

Speaking of snorkels, I saw a bunch of 4x4 and regular cars and vans
with snorkels.  It could be for the dust reasons, OTOH the whole place
gets flooded during the "winter". 

I felt like I cheeted on my truck as I was running the sidekick through
mud and boulders, and then got back just to drive my LR to work on the
parkway.  Maybe one day I take it down there...<sigh>

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 08:53:50 -0800
From: John Ousterhout <jouster@redm.primextech.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine wiring problems

REgarding Keith's wiring problems: you mention burning out a glow-plug as
well as excessive switch heating. I hope your faulty glowplug did not get
bypass wiring, which would result in only three glowplugs in the circuit
instead of four. (30-year old wiring may also cause the same symptoms) This
would increase the current through the switch, causing it too overheat.
Just a thought. I will also endorse the DieselGlow conversion, which avoids
such problems in the future.
JohnO
'64 109 5-door diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 11:05:52 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Making a date with my welder...

Looking for a right side outrigger for the rear spring. U cut, I pay.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:25:55 -0800
From: John Ousterhout <jouster@redm.primextech.com>
Subject: RAd Caps

Radiator caps: indeed, higher pressure caps help keep the water from
boiling, allowing it to run to higher temperatures, increasing thermal
efficiency, heater output, etc. However, my engine(s) doesn't get hot
enough to boil even with the low-pressure cap. If I lived where the ambient
temperature was hotter, I believe it'd run hotter, requiring either a
higher pressure cap, and/or a lower temperature thermostat. (I've got both
on the shelf, "just in case"). That said, you made an interesting
connection with the white foam phenomenon. If the OIL doesn't get hot
enough to turn condensation into vapor, then the white foam may appear, and
the oil temperature will be indirectly affected by coolant temperature.
300degF is considered to be about optimum for oil to prevent engine wear,
which is obviously high enough to vaporize water. The Land Rover radiator
has a lot of excess capacity, and on short drives the oil won't get hot
enough. My commute has always taken at least 30 minutes, so I've never had
the white foam problem. Like many others have reported, Penzoil seems to be
the biggest "foamer", especially in VW's.
To emphasize: the reason I'm using the low-pressure cap is to avoid
stressing the rather expensive radiator, and I live in a cool climate where
I can get away with it. I'll have to watch the gage carefully if I venture
into warmer climes; the diesel is an expensive engine to overheat.
JohnO
'64 109 diesel

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Fan Blowing in Series III
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 97 09:34:54 -0800
From: "G. Mugele" <mewgull@ix.netcom.com>

John Cassidy inquired:
>I'm not quite sure if this is normal in a Series III or not, as this is the
>first one I've owned.  When I start the truck, and with the fan switch in
>the uppermost position(switch pointed towards the roof), the fan blows!

It is *not* normal.  On a Series III "normal" is for the fan to run the 
same speeed in all switch positions...which is to say not to run at all.  
The switch should be off in the up position with two speeds in the other 
positions as you noticed.  Do you get air movement when the LR is 
stationary?  With the fan off and the heater controls (the ones of the 
left of the steering wheel) both in the down position traveling at about 
25 MPH I get some air blowing.  I think this is caused by a pressure 
ridge near the intake in the right fender/wing.

Otherwise I'd suspect a short somewhere near the motor causing the 
current to run thru the blower.  Time to get the multi-meter out and go 
hunting.  Good luck.

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele
Peat  -'95 D90 SW 364/500
Gooey -'72 Series III 88
*** Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.

------------------------------

From: Michael Slade <Slade@imagina.com>
Subject: D90 HT For Sale
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:39:22 -0800

Posted for a friend.  Please reply directely.

FOR SALE

1995 D90 HT SW
Arles Blue
17,000 miles
NEVER OFF ROAD (or so she says)
$34,000

Goodies:
BFG AT's
6-disk Pioneer Stereo
Alarm
Front Brush Guard
Rear Light Guard
1000W Hella's Mntd on the roll cage
Safari Rack (rear half)
Tire Chains
Non-smoker
serviced at Land Rover Portland

Please call:

Karen Waldron
503-631-8283

Happy Hunting!

Michael Slade
Portland, OR
slade@imagina.com
'70 109 SW

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Filters and adaptors
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:40:00 -0500

C Marin Faure wrote " However, if you're talking
about which filter to use on a Series Land Rover adapter, I doubt the
anti-return valve of the HP-1 is critical as the original cartridge
filter
certainly didn't have one."

If changing to a filter adaptor you should use a cartridge with a check
valve. The original filter housing incorporates a check valve as part of
the housing. If you use a non check valve arrangement the oil pump has
to fill the filter and galleries before any oil is delivered to the
bearings.
BTW I always turn over on starter until I see an oil pressure reading
then turn on the ignition. There are systems available that store a
supply of prelubrication oil in an accumulator and release it when the
ignition is turned on. The object of the exercise in all cases being to
reduce the time the bearings rotate under load without pressure
lubrication.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 02:23:34 -500
Subject: Re: Filters and adaptors

Easton,
I like your method of prelubing the engine, but are you not still 
scuffing just as well (or bad)?  How many turns do you normally need 
to achieve sufficient oil pressure?  And how have you wired things to 
not initially energize ignition?  Thanks!  Mark   

------------------------------

From: DVB1%MECH%DCPP@go50.comp.pge.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 97 11:34:03 PST
Subject: re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:10:16 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>
Subject: Diesel Wiring

I have received info from a knowledgable source telling me that the starter
circuit wiring overheating and subsequent electrical problems in my '65
Diesel 88" have probably arisen from the fact that one twelve volt battery
does not offer enough cranking amperage for the diesel and thus the starter
is pulling so much from the battery that the wires are overheating.

I have been advised to return to the original double 6 volt set-up, which
makes decent sense to me at this point, as all my electrical problems began
just after the 12 volt conversion was made.  I am replacing my wiring
harness at this time and so I might as well convert back while I'm mucking
around with the wiring anyway.

Any further thoughts from the Diesel electrically esperienced out there?
Thanks,
Keith C.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:44:56 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Three cylinder Diesel

David Cockey answered a question about a non-original Diesel:
>> I know about the four cylinder diesel that came out in the 1962 models.
>> Someone told me that a number of LR's were fitted aftermarket direct
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>been German or Austrian in origin. No idea if they did any conversions
>after the intro of the LR Diesel.

That would have been the Austrian Jenbacher two-stroke diesel, although I 
seem to remember it was a two cylinder engine. I am still trying to get info 
from Jenbacher about it. Turner Engineering ("the" Turner) denies 
everything, btw, so maybe it was another Turner company.

Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 13:03:05 -0800
From: John Ousterhout <jouster@redm.primextech.com>
Subject: My Diesel Wiring

I'm using a single (900cca, 95AH) 12v battery at present, and have had no
problems since switching from 24volts (another story). However, the
DieselGlow plug circuit is not connected through the ignition switch (it is
the original petrol ignition switch), because I was concerned with the high
current draw possibly damaging the expensive switch. I have a 2.5D geared
starter, which is smaller and lighter, but the battery doesn't seem to last
any longer than with the series 3 or 2A starters, so I'd suspect that it
draws the same current. In otherwords, the single 12 volt battery should
work IF IT IS BIG ENOUGH. Two 6's are likely to provide more cranking
capacity than a single 12, and if your battery or wiring is not in top
condition the effects are greater with the diesel than with a petrol
engine. Try to measure the electrical load when cranking (ask for help if
you don't know how to measure 100+amps), or just measure the battery
voltage while cranking (mine drops to about 7 volts, 150amp peak, indicated
on the single battery). If the voltage drops too much, the starter won't
crank as hard, causing it to slow down, requiring longer cranking, making
it hotter, etc, leading to meltdown.

Hope this helps,
JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 16:43:57 -0500 (EST)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Battery wiring

Keith Cooper writes re the wiring of his 2.25 diesel batteries.
 
 One of the most significant mods you can make to the wiring of a LR,
particularly a diesel is to add a substantial ground wire from the battery
to the starter or directly to the engine. The standard ground wire from the
battery to the frame is usully pretty poor, particularly in an older
vehicle. The wire can be additional or a replacemant
 The direct path helps to reduce the chances of high resistance connections
dissapating the little bit of battery cranking ability that is there in the
first place. The original wiring from the two six volt batteries should be
sustantial enough for a single battery, after all the  starter still draws
the same  cranking amps through the cable, whether it is from one battery or
two.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:17:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine wiring problems

Re: Blown glowplugs and the like:

One other goodie in this list is a shorted/missing ballast resistor. This
could also lead to excessive current draw and a resultant smoke show....

Might be some previous owner didn't like to wait.....worth checking.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Storage areas/ Fuel tanks in Defender Wagons
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 97 23:10:21 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

>What nooks and crannies have other owners found in the new Defender 110
>Wagon for storing bits and pieces. I was looking at one yesterday, and
>found that I could cut and fit a storage locker into the back left wheel
>arch, just like Series vehicles.

I got my dad to make me two large, flat tool boxes tha are the same 
height as the interior wheel arches (9"?) They will fit under the bench 
seats (if fitted) and give an enormous amount of extra load space.

Obviously they get in the way if you regularly use the rear seats but I 
found that I only use the front two and second row of three so I removed 
the rear bench seats and cut a piece of carpet to cover the whole rear 
load area, thus hiding the tool boxes and makes everything look like a 
flat bed.

BTW my nieces and nephew just love sitting in this back bit when going 
for a picnic (not whilst travelling). You can also fold down the second 
row seat backs and add a piece of foam the same depth and you have a 
pretty comfortable bed to sleep on when the weather is too bad for the 
tent

__________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK

"DOROTHY"  -  1985, 110, V8, CSW 
__________________________________

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Storage areas/ Fuel tanks in Defender Wagons
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 97 23:13:13 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

>What nooks and crannies have other owners found in the new Defender 110
>Wagon for storing bits and pieces. I was looking at one yesterday, and
>found that I could cut and fit a storage locker into the back left wheel
>arch, just like Series vehicles.

I got my dad to make me two large, flat tool boxes tha are the same 
height as the interior wheel arches (9"?) They will fit under the bench 
seats (if fitted) and give an enormous amount of extra load space.

Obviously they get in the way if you regularly use the rear seats but I 
found that I only use the front two and second row of three so I removed 
the rear bench seats and cut a piece of carpet to cover the whole rear 
load area, thus hiding the tool boxes and makes everything look like a 
flat bed.

BTW my nieces and nephew just love sitting in this back bit when going 
for a picnic (not whilst travelling). You can also fold down the second 
row seat backs and add a piece of foam the same depth and you have a 
pretty comfortable bed to sleep on when the weather is too bad for the 
tent

__________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK

"DOROTHY"  -  1985, 110, V8, CSW 
__________________________________

------------------------------

Subject: CKD Defenders
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 97 23:14:14 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

The article I posted about CKD defenders had an incorrect phone number, 
for readers to contact.

I will try to find an alternative number for you to try if you are 
interested.

__________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK

"DOROTHY"  -  1985, 110, V8, CSW 
__________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 23:20:03 +0000
From: Vitor Domingos do Pago Teixeira <landrover@grupo.bfe.pt>
Subject: unsubscribe

Hello !

	I wish to unsubscribe as soon as possible.
	Thank you.

	landrover@grupo.bfe.pt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 15:24:16 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Highland Enduro on Webazine

If you'd like to read about the Highland Enduro (Scotland, late November) in
which I participated with Peter Bradley in his awesome Land Rover-based
Foers Ibex, Pete's story about the event is currently the featured article
on Lloyd Allison's 4WD webazine site:

    http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/4WD.html

It's also on Pete's Ibex web site with more photos:

    http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm

In the version on Lloyd's webazine, there's also a link to a page which
explains about kinetic recovery and which everyone should read.

Enjoy!

Granny

PS  My appologies to those on both LRO and mendo_recce lists about my 
    cross-posting this message!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:26:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Fan Blows

John,
     Consider yourself lucky, in most series vehicles the fan just sucks.
       
                       Ruthrfrd@borg,com

------------------------------

From: N4PTK@InfoAve.Net
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 19:30:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Battery wiring

(snip)
> One of the most significant mods you can make to the wiring of a LR,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>battery to the frame is usully pretty poor, particularly in an older
>vehicle. The wire can be additional or a replacemant
Bill,
        You are exactly correct.  I posted this same thing to the
list a month or so ago and no one responded.  I guess they got it.
Go to the parts store and buy the heavy heavy 1 gauge wire like the
semi truckers use on their big rigs.  They are not that expensive and
ensure a good and adequate flow of amps from the battery to the
starter.

Larry
n4ptk@infoave.net

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:17:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Diesel Engine wiring problems

Re: Blown glowplugs and the like:

One other goodie in this list is a shorted/missing ballast resistor. This
could also lead to excessive current draw and a resultant smoke show....

Might be some previous owner didn't like to wait.....worth checking.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:48:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Car wash

>> wash. The kid at the wash tried to start the engine with the key causing
>> a massive short circuit problem. 
>	How do you normally start it?

And why would you wash it?

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:57:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Alpine glass and County Bulkheads

I just cashed in my resto program with Overs-Ray Orth-Nay. Got theabove
mentioned bits, plus a military timing cover, (I'll put a compressor there) a
5mb valve cover (OK, tappet cover... *what*ever!!) and the box I mentioned
last post (still no response). 
What I need now are dimensions for the installation of the alpine windows.
Measure twice, cut once, and all that. I've got a tropical roof and don't
want to mess it up. Regarding the bulkhead mat; should I get longer screws
for the data plates? 
TIA, y'all!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 10:42:40 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Filters and adaptors

Easton Trevor wrote:
> C Marin Faure wrote " However, if you're talking
> about which filter to use on a Series Land Rover adapter, I doubt the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> reduce the time the bearings rotate under load without pressure
> lubrication.

It's my understanding that a chech valve is not needed simply because the 
oil will not drain out of the filter simply because of the position (Semi 
-vertical to the block. If its full of oil you should have pressure on 
start-up. This would mean you would have to fill the filter with oil at 
each change, but thats it. Those are my thoughts FWIW. Any others?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1962 II  88 "Millie"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:23:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Identification of head ratio--again

Hi all,

I mistakenly assumed all SIII's were 8:1 ratio.  Looking in the manual, 7:1
is optional.  Where do I look to find the ratio? It was mentioned just a
couple of weeks ago, but I can't find the post.  It was something about "8"
located somewhere near the intake manifold or something like that.

Thanks,

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm">Blue Brick Rover Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 22:49:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt Abercrombie <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Subject: Switch wiring

Can anyone out there provide me with some information about which wire goes
to which terminal on the various different switches on a `69 swb?  The
particular switches that I have in mind are the hazard, headlight, and panel
light switches.  Thanks for any help.
An aside;  I saw a sIII swb with a pick up cab parked at Dorschel Saab in
Henrietta, NY several days ago.  Is it anyone on the list?

Matt Abercrombie
Belfast, Maine(some times)/Rochester, New York(the other times)
`69 SWB HT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 09:25:32 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel Wiring

>Any further thoughts from the Diesel electrically esperienced out there?
>Thanks,
Obviously its up to you,but you might like to consider the fact
that the S111 diesel,with exactly the same engine,manages perfectly
on one 12V battery.As indeed does my 11A.It may be that the fault
lies in the starter motor itself.Examination of the brushgear may
help.IMO the twin battery setup is horrible,an opinion shared by
a friend of mine who ran a 24V Nissan Patrol for some years.This
..er..vehicle ran with two 12V batteries.The problem is that
inevitably,it seems,one battery gives up first,and takes the other
with it,at least part way.So you replace the duff one,and the other
one you *havent* replaced promptly performs the same trick.And so on.
The only sure course of action would seem to be to replace both of the
sods.A source of great joy for battery makers,I'm sure,but not good
for the wallet.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 10:44:44 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Battery wiring

Bill makes a good point...

 One of the most significant mods you can make to the wiring of a LR,
>particularly a diesel is to add a substantial ground wire from the battery
>to the starter or directly to the engine.

When I had the new battery cable made,the bloke made it with *two*
earth leads.One direct to the engine,and the other terminates on
the horizontal "shelf" of the grille panel.The starter has a separate
earth braid to the chassis from the yoke bolt on the starter motor.
One point,though.I suffered from low cranking speed,and finally from
*no* cranking speed!This was last year.Upon dismantling the starter
motor,I found that both earth brushes had parted company with the
starter endplate.It was obvious that one brush had gone to lunch
a goodly while ago,and that the starter had been valiantly coping
through one brush.The motor was of the reconditioned persuasion,
and the brushes had been pop riveted to the endplate,using aluminium
rivets.After much to-ing and fro-ing,and humming and haing,the local
auto electrical bloke came up with two new brushes with mounting
plates attached,and told me to bolt them to the endplate(4 B.A fits,
I used stainless,but only because I'd got some).He explained that
this is a common fault with starters,and he in fact bolts new brushes
on himself when presented with this problem.Cost?A fiver.Cost of new
(recon) motor?Getting on for a hundred quid.Result,high speed cranking,
less amps kicking about,happy battery,beer fund intact.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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