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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: More pix to come.
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 97 22:42:00 EST

I've got rid of the scanner I bought 2 weeks ago and bought a new Hewlett 
Packard. 5p scanner.

Hopefully it will last longer and do better scans.  I 'll redo the ones I 
did last week and I'get them up somewhere.

Dixon Kenner has offered to post them on the LR FAQ site.  I 'll get them to 
you real soon now, Dixon.

And for those who need to know what the Austin Gypsy and Champs are, I'm 
sure I can scan somehting that will show the difference 8->.  (These should 
not be confused with the New Zealand made vehicle that looks awfully like a 
LR and Gypsy.  Jeez, what was it called?  Dave Nalder, do you know?

I know, now you all want me to find a pix of that to scan as well!  No??

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 07:58:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Sighting old d 110

Sighting
On our way up to Boston on I 84 yesterday we passed a Defender 110 5-door
county with Connecticut plates. It was NOT a NADA ! Probably about a 1985 or
so. Might be a diesel (we passed it in a diesel rabbit :-) Even Flo liked it.
Anybody on the list?
Rgds Quintin 
Can I have one please, I promise to feed it........ :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 08:01:58 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: D-110 doors

Hi All,
 I have a question about 110 doors fitting on a 109.  It is my
understanding that the 110 windshield is taller & the front of the roof
differant.  Doesn't this change the door height as well or did the 110
just have a taller roof.   Rollup windows would be so nice that I have
been thinking about this since I saw a complete set of 110 ten doors in
the used parts of Rn's page.  (there is a lot of 24v stuff cheap as well
if anyone needs that)  I have seen the d90 door tops on series doors & I
am guessing the door latch is the only reason you could not change the
door bottom.  Can those latches fit the series door frame?

Regards 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 09:28:17 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Spring lift

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> At  9:40 PM 3/6/97 -0800, David Place wrote:
> >  Is this just a common way to raise the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
> twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

Well it took TeriAnn to make me realize that of course she is right. 
Well then what were these blocks doing?  Someone went to a lot of
trouble to put them in with longer shackle bolts and all.  The vehicle
had 15" tyres when I bought it and it hadn't been beaten up like it had
been an industrial model but more likely someones everyday driver.  
I had a good laugh on myself when I finally thought this problem out. 
Glad I wasn't the one who made the blocks, installed them and THEN found
out that the laws of physics hadn't been recinded.  Was he related? 
Must be the long cold winter :-) :-)   Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 09:34:21 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 2.25L Engine Questions (Crank)

David Cockey wrote:
> > Crankshaft
> >  - I've heard of using 2.25 Diesel cranks in Petrol engines. What are
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Regards,
> David Cockey

I did the conversion in my 88 when I rebuilt it.  I did it because my
original was scored.  I phoned one of the Land Rover suppliers, I thing
Atlantic British since I bought most of my stuff from them and was told
it was a stronger crank and it fit so go ahead and use it.  I have about
4000 miles on it and it works fine.  One thing I tried and didn't like
was I used the heavier bull nose crank pully.  I eventually took it
off.  I thought it just didn't run the same with it on and after
changing it I seemed to think it was a better match.  I changed a few
other things like putting the longer oil fill pipe on with the
pressureized cap.  The old one pused on and this one is flatter and you
twist it to lock it on.  I don't know that it makes any difference but I
feed the little hose back into the engine so I have a bit of polution
control to make me fee better.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 09:23:14 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Spring lift

Paul Oxley wrote:
> David Place wrote:
> > John Ousterhout asked an interesting question.  I posted an E-mail in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Paul Oxley
> http://www.adventures.co.za

Well, the whole axle is being lifted toward the body while the
connection point is staying down at its usual level.  The dif whould
then be higher in relation to the ground.  The problem however is you
are cutting down on the size of tyre you could put on.  I have full 16"
ones on and it worked fine with the blocks in.  The only difference I
have noticed is that the tyre doesn't hit my aux. heater hoses which
enter through the wheel arch into the seat box.  Driving isn't any
different.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 23:01:58 -500
Subject: Brake Flaring Question

Thanks for the brake flare tool responses.  I have a couple of kits 
sighted.  In past years, I have just purchased the nearest size tube and
made it fit.  Works, but does not look factory.  On the bench, I believe I 
can competently make a double flare, but are the ready-made ends 
inherently superior to any hand-made flare?  Should I just buy a good 
coiler and creatively loop the excess in ready-made lines?  I could 
make LR loopy pipe art!  All comments invited.  Mark

PS.  What and where used are ISO flares?
        Are these AKA "bubble flares"?   

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Mar 1997 18:05:22 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Spring lift

David Place wrote:
> I had a good laugh on myself when I finally thought this problem out.
> Glad I wasn't the one who made the blocks, installed them and THEN found
> out that the laws of physics hadn't been recinded.  Was he related?
> Must be the long cold winter :-) :-)   Dave VE4PN

Glad you're back with us David, you had us worried there for awhile.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 12:07:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Blue Brick: No longer for sale

Hi all,

The Brick is off the market.  He's staying home.  There was an issue of
conflicting family philosophy over how (or how much) spare time should be
spent on various endeavors.  When the wife saw my "solution" she was
horrified.  Therefore, the Brick gets to stay! : )

Sorry for the bandwidth
Nate
NADdMD

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <S.Vels>
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 19:15:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Help!!! SOLEX 361V advice?

> From:          Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

> According to the manual (danish) there should be an electrical cutoff on

> The manual refers to a charcoal filter - I cannot find it! where should

> Above the inlet manifold, on the lower casting of the carb. there is a
> "nozzle" which appears to be a connection for a rubber tube - it is

All the above mentioned gadgets are all part of the emission control 
scheme forced upon some markets. Eqipment like this is very rare on 
Danish landies.

> There is a metal pipe running from the distributor to the carb -
> what does this do? 

It is the tube for the vacuum advance in the distributor. It uses the 
vacuum in the carbrettor to adjust timing relative to RPM.

>How does one correctly adjust the advance/retard screw on
> the distributor?

You turn the whole distributor to set the timing. Then you use this 
vernier for the final fine adjustments. It can also be used if you 
refuel with different octane fuel from time to time. If you can't 
turn it, it might be corroded in place. If you turn it and timing 
doesn't change, the spring that retains the plate might be broken. I 
drove around with a broken spring for some time when i had a Lucas 
dist.

> How long (at 8-12 =A6C) do you normally have to have the choke pulled to
> prevent stalling? When the choke on this vehicle is pulled, the carb is

Pull the choke all the way to start. Run for about five seconds and 
then push the choke to stabilise slightly above normal (hot) RPM. Push 
the choke in gradually when driving witout stalling the engine at 
traffic lights. Choke should normally be used within 2 minutes from 
start. Running with the choke longer than nescecarry will cause wear 
on the cylinder walls because the petrol will clean the oil film off 
the walls. 

> Are there
> any adjustments to the carb which i should make - how does one tune a
> carb properly.
 
Make sure timing is adjusted. Adjust the idle screw to stabilise the 
engine at 500 rpm. Adjust the mixture screw to get the highest 
possible rpm. Then adjust the idle screw again (500 rpm). Do his a 
couple of times. Then finally turn the mixture screw half a turn i and 
adjust rpm to a smooth idle little above where it stalls. 

> Can anyone offer any sound advice (other than changing the carb for a
> weber?) please!!!

Take the car to Marius and get a full tune-up of points, plugs, 
timing, mixture and idle on dynamic test equipment. Fuel savings will 
pay for this in no time.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 12:23:32 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Spring lift

At  9:28 AM 3/8/97 -0800, David Place wrote:

>Well then what were these blocks doing?  Someone went to a lot of
>trouble to put them in with longer shackle bolts and all.
;
Dave
Here's a thought.  What if the Land Rover was just a tad too tall to fit in
a PO's garage and he lowered the body  slightly to get it to fit?

>From listeniing to some of the discovery people. I'm almost suprised that
there are not a bunch going around with a coil or two cut off their
suspensions to fit garages.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 12:33:08 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Spring lift

At  9:23 AM 3/8/97 -0800, David Place wrote:

>Well, the whole axle is being lifted toward the body while the
>connection point is staying down at its usual level.  The dif whould
>then be higher in relation to the ground.

Ahh another person who thinks th Land Rover is the centre of the universe
and that everything is attacted to it.

The body is lowered to the diff which remains tHe same distance from The
ground as long as you do not change tyre size, jack it up, change the tyre
pressure or whatever.  The tyres do not float up into the air if you
decrease the distance between the axles and the LR body.

TeriAnn Wakeman            "Large format photographers look
Santa Cruz California       at the world upside down and
twakeman@scruznet.com       backwards"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 21:42:10 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Suspension

Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com> complained:

>I sent this out several days ago, but received not one answer so let me ask
>again...

Maybe the reason was that nobody knows what kind of vehicle you are talking 
about...

>Ok, so I've been replacing parts all over, and have the beasty running ok
>(but still having the dickens of a time with getting the brakes to work
>right). I am wanting to understand whether the suspension needs to be
>replaced. So...

>How does one know if the leaf springs should be replaced? Is there a certain
>height some component should be above another or the ground?

If this is a Series vehicle, a Rule of Thumb would be that there should be 
about four to five inches between the rear axle and the rubber bump on the 
chassis, maybe a little more in a 107 or 109 (unloaded). In the front, there 
should be about the same or a little more clearance between the axle and the 
frame. The spring leaves should not be splayed, but the ends of the shorter 
leaves should touch the longer springs above. Inserting graphite between the 
leaves makes the ride smoother, btw. Avoid grease, it captures dust and grit 
and grinds down the leaves.

>The bottom plate under the springs, and where the shocks attach down low, is
>bent, or so it seems. BP doesn't sell these bottom plates. Are they supposed
>to be bent? It looks like the shocks were fully compressed in offroading,
>hard!! and bent that plate.

Unlikely. If the shocks had ever been fully compressed, they would not have 
bent the plate; had they been overcompressed, they would have broken, but 
still not bent the plate. It could have been hit by a rock and bent, of 
course. Maybe describe the suspected damage in a little more detail. The 
plate shold be bent downwards evenly at the front and rear, and it should be 
available as a spare part.

>I presume that the way to determine if the shocks need to be replaced is by
>the jumping on the bumper test: if it continues to undulate, then replace.
>Mine aren't undulating particularly, but I assume they are pretty old.

Shocks on most Series vehicles get very little work since the springs are so 
stiff that the shock does not move more than an inch or so under normal 
circumstances. This is also a reason why the time-honoured method of jumping 
on the bumper does not really work in a Series L-R; you would have to be 
pretty heavy to affect the compression of the springs, or the shocks, more 
than an eight of an inch or so. The only method for testing the shocks that 
I know of is removing them and compressing and expanding them by hand. Age 
doesn't really mean anything, mine are 39 years old and working fine.
Hope this helps - please be more specific!
Good Land-Rovering
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:57:06 PST
Subject: Re: subscribing
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

Please send me the info for subscribing to this list. I hava friend here
who wants to subscribe and for the life of me I cannot remember how to
do it.

Cheers

Chris W

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 18:01:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tow Bars

   I've been considering using a tow bar attached to the front bumper of my
'73 Series III 88" to tow the truck behind my Volvo.   That way the family
can join me on a trail ride four hours away without being subjected to four
hours of Buzz, Moan, and Whine ("BMW" noises).  Then I also won't have to
drive home with muddy brakes grinding away for several hundred miles.  
   The problem is that the center of the front bumper is 21 inches above the
ground, the center of the car's hitch reciever is about 10 inches lower.
Draw bars to raise or lower the towing ball a few inches higher or lower are
available, but not ten inches.  Anyone face this dilemma and conquer it??  I
understand that the tow bar's lock is at the rear of the socket, so too much
angularity will result in the lock not being secure under the rear of the
ball.  The trailer hitch probably wouldn't like the angled pull either. 
    I know the answer is to get a higher tow vehicle (a Discovery?), but
that's not the answer I can afford!
Sincerely,
   erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

From: Zophy@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 18:00:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: resend of suspension question

how do you cancel this mail?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 23:41:45 -0800 (PST)
From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Subject: Series IIa 109 Ambulance

Hello,
        Well my search for a Series Rover to convert to an Off-Road camper
continues.  I have come across a Series IIa Ambulance here in the US but
have had difficulty finding any information on this model.  Has the weight
of the ambulance back made the vehicle impossible to handle off-road?  Is
the back steel or aluminum?  If steel, has anyone attempted to replace these
panels with aluminum?  How adversly effected is the vehicles payload due to
the back?  What is the vehicles top speed and fuel consumption?  I know
nothing about this particular model.  Is there an ambulance home page on the
net?  I realize these questions appeal more to the European members, but,
any help from anywhere would be greatly appreciated!

                                                             Henry Stinson

------------------------------

From: Donald Abbot <donald@bateleur.co.za>
Subject: re: Help, I'm rolling and I can't stop!
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 10:02:17 -0000

Ray,

It is strange that you braking problem happened so suddenly. Was there air in the system when you bled it?
If so, a complete overhaul of the system is required - replace all seals, hone every cylinder and put in new 
hydraulic fluid. If you didn't notice any air, take a look at the thickness of the brake shoe linings. I was, until
recently, happily pumping two or three times before getting any reaction. A grinding noise from the back led
me to take off the drums to find that I was grinding away at the shoes. After replacing the shoes (bonded
linings) I now do not have to pump at all!

Hope this helps
Donald

PS I hope you know about the brake shoe adjusters.
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:17:32 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Austins

There are some examples of Austin Champs and Gipsies at
   http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/vehicle.html

Lloyd

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