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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 7:01:50 EST

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:56:12 -0800
From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Re: Disco, Disco, Who Has the Disco?

     
     Sorry all; I prematurely deleted an email asking the subject question. 
      Will sender please let me know who he/she is again so I can answer.
     
     Hank
     1960 Long Station Wagon
     1997 Short Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 14:07:20 +0100
From: u940470@studbo.hit.no (Bengt M Tovslid)
Subject: Nissan Diesel

I have an Nissan 2,8 six syl. diesel in my 1963 88". The engine was fitted 
in England for one years ago. Somme said that I will get a transmission 
problem son, but now I have had it one year and drive 10.000 km and every 
thing is well. The engine gives 94 bhp and have an torque at 210 nm.
I can recommend this engine for others, but for newer cars I will recommend 
the 2,8 with turbo intercooler (124 HK). The engine use 1 ltr/10km with 4wd 
on snowy rood.

A friend of my has fitted an Dayhatsu 2.8 4 syl diesel. He is satisfied with 
this engine but, we agree that the Nissan is an better choose.

Bengt M. Tovslid
Norway

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:22:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Flywheel questions

Hi all,

I have two questions about flywheel evaluations:

1.  How much damage to the teeth of the ring gear is acceptable.  Mine shows
a few teeth with small dings in the teeth but not actual broken teeth.

2.  How does one determine if the surface of the flywheel needs to be
resurfaced?

Thanks in advance

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 08:37:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Flywheel questions

Re: Chipped teeth:

One or two is OK but not great. I'd take a file to them and clean 'em up -
you don't really want any sharp edges on these things.

Re: Surfacing:

If it's grooved or wavy, do yourself a favor and have it cut. It's a cheap
fix...

If you need a petrol one, lemme know - I think I have a spare or three
about.....8*)

                    aj"Damnifiknow where they came from...."r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 14:21:03 UT
From: "Trevor Talbot" <fc101@msn.com>
Subject: Re Speed

Andy
       In general  the SWB & LWB have the same gearing ie gearbox,transfer box 
& diffs(4.7s) , the only difference is in the tyres. SWB use 6.00-16 s Whereas 
LWB use 750-16s and this would give the difference in the figures I gave . Per 
1000rpm the LWB travells further.BUT since checking  ,the figures I gave are 
correct for the 1969 cat, the 1975 cat shows a slight difference in the 
overall drive ratio.for first&reverse
1969cat   High Transf            Low Transf
                
  First        19.4 ;1                    39.7 ;1
Reverse     16.3 ;1                   33.2 ;1

!975cat
   First       19.88 ;1                 40.7 ;1
Reverse     21.66 ;1                44.30 ;1

Second,third &top ratios are the same.

In your query are you refering to the LWB 109  1TON Land Rover . Yes I hear 
you say!!!!
 This model was made for a specialised market and according to the book Land 
Rover The Unbeatable 4x4   "it never became a great seller"  It did have a 
lower gearing
and this was achieved on the transfer box giving following ratios
                   High Trans      Low Trans
 Top           7.19 ;1           15.4 ;1
 Third         10.8 ;1           23.1 ;1
 second     15.96 ;1          34.1 ;1
 First         25.9 ;1           55.3 ;1
Reverse    21.7 ;1           46.4 ;1

Cheers 
 Trevor    101 FC GS
               2a SWB Station Wagon
               Ser 1 SWB 

                  

  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:35:44 +0100
From: Auftragsannahme <info@atelco.de>
Subject: RE: ILTIS was: VW Diesels

Hello all,

The Iltis from the German Bundeswehr is now replaced with a version 
of the Mercedes G-Wagen. I think that says all.

Iltis is a newish version of the 2 stroke powerd Munga.

It has a 1.6 l Diesel (Turbo ?) an a Petrol engine, plus 4wd an a 5
speed gearbox with one low gear and 4 normal.

Cheers

Oliver Gottlob

>>  Landrover 109 Diesel 2,25l Ser. 3 with broken Gearbox  <<
>>  Reply to: Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de                   <<
>>  PR BBS: DG5DBV@DB0YAB.#NRW.DEU.EU                      <<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:50:50 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery 5 Spd   With  10500  miles (fwd

>                  I recently tried to adjust my idle knob,because
> my vapor canister aka purge system,was making a sort of a humming
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> every time I take my disco to the service department I find that some
> thing new goes wrong. I have other problems with this truck and would
> like to ask future questions.

Greg,

        Never, ever mess with the vernier on your throttle cable. It IS NOT
an idle adjustment but simply an adjustment for the throttle cable. Your
idle is controlled via the computer and messing with the vernier fritzes
the computer. It's trying to bring the idle down and can't because the
throttle plate is partly open. Adjust the vernier until you have a little
slack in the cable between the throttle plate lever and the vernier
bracket.
        As far as your check engine light goes, all you need to do is
disconnect the battery for a few seconds to erase the code. You will need
to have your radio code handy because this action will codelock the radio.
Read your owners manual on how to enter your radio code.  You can also
disconnect the main EFi connection at the ECU but this is a bit hard to get
to.
        As far as your noise from the vapor canister goes, go get it fixe!.
It's under warranty for 5 years and 50,000 miles.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: "Finch, Mark" <Finchm@sky2.bskyb.com>
Subject: RE: LIGHTWEIGHTS
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 14:52:00 PST

 ----------
From: Finch, Mark
Subject: RE: LIGHTWEIGHTS
Date: 10 February 1997 12:52

 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: LIGHTWEIGHTS
Date: 10 February 1997 12:21

I have just got a Ex MOD Lightweight and it is on a dreaded Q plate.
Can anybody tell me how I go about getting an age related plate.

Hi new owner of a Lightweight ( sorry do not know your name)

I do not know exactly how you do it but if you give the Lightweight club
a ring I am sure that they will tell you all of the details

The number is 01204 396449  and you need to speck to Ian or Sue Foster.

Where are you in the country ?, and did you know it is the 30th Anniversary 
of the
Lightweight!!!, Do you intent to go to Billing '97

Yours Rovering

Mark Finch

EX-Dutch UN Diesel 24V Lightweight
Finchm@sky2.bskyb.com

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 10:12:57 -500
Subject: Triumph Digest Address Wanted

Pardon my intrusion.  
I am seeking the Triumph digest subscription address.  Can someone
please send it to me?  Please email me direct.  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:12:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Interested in a Bronco?

Hi Mike,
	How are things going at ECR? While I was at your place during the Downeast
Rover off-road event, I noticed a few Broncos and the fact that your Zebra
has a lot of Bronco components. That got me thinking... I have a 1976 Bronco
and was wondering if you might want to do some sort of trade for a older LR
or chassis or something. 
	The Bronco is a "good" vehicle. It was originally a New Mexico and Colorado
vehicle so it hasn't been exposed to too much salt. It's a 1976 hardtop with
disk brakes and a manual three speed tranny. It has the stock V8 with a bit
more than 100k miles. The interior is pretty ratty but otherwise it is real
clean. The body/chassis are in good shape with no rot except for the lower
tailgate which has some rot on the lower section. There is light surface rust
on the chassis but absolutely no rot. The rear tub is clean with no rot and
no body damage. It has never been cut or modified except for aftermarket rims
and about an inch lift. The pax side front fender panel and part of the grill
is damaged but not seriously. It apparently hit a snow bank which kinked the
panels. This vehicle is not a junker and is very driveable. It would pass
inspection if the exhaust was replaced. It is not registered now but it is
titled and presently located in Norway, Maine. 
	I bought the vehicle off of a neighbor and had thought about restoring it
but on hindsight, I'd rather have a Rover. I'm looking for something in
similar condition, i.e. structurally solid and driveable if not that pretty
or clean. But I would consider anything. I was wondering if you were
interested in some sort of trade? If not, no big deal, just thought you might
be interested. If you are interested, let me know. Thanks.

Regards,

George Bull
GNBull3@aol.com
Phone/FAX 603-537-1276

P.S., If you are interested, I'm going to Bruce's Winter Romp and I might try
stopping by. I'll also be in the Portland area next Monday and might be able
to get up to your area.

------------------------------

From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 11:42:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Dail...

Hello List,
1. Polly, would you e-mail me off-list about your RR?  I can't get through to
your address.
 2. Could someone remind me what the correct website address is for the extra
fuel tank in a D-90.  We have a couple of club members considering just such
a swap.
3. may I please have the website address for something like Marks 4wd
adapters(?)  We are searching some help with a conversion.
4.  Does anyone have x-reference numbers from Land Rover to Federal Mogul or
TRW for engine parts for 2.25 petrol.  We have an overhaul coming up.
5. The person looking for the side bench seats last wek could contact me
off-line if you didn't already get hooked up.. I wasn't having any luck with
your address either.
6.  Thanks for all the great info from everyone.
Ciao,
Tom Bache
52 80" the relic
56(?) 86 coming soon
87 RR the QE11

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:04:46 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: Hell on wheels

lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) wants to butcher his metro head :

> It has an alloy head ... I was driving it when a spark plug shot out!
> It's stripped the threads in the head, The plug is, I think, 14mm. Could I
> just tap the head for a 16mm plug?

To coin your phrase Aaaaargh.. !

It could affect your resale value somewhat if someone sees 1 16mm plug and 3 
14mm :-)

Definitely go for a helicoil, Although I don't think any machine shop will lend 
/hire the tools to you to DIY. Just leave the head with them, they'll install it 
(not expensive)

I had the misfortune to strip one of the spark plug threads on my Lancia 
twin-cam many moons ago. It's such a good feeling to turn the plug back out and 
see all of your threads neatly moulded to the plug [don't ask :-(]

Be very gentle when you put your plug in the helicoil. DON'T overtighten it.

Cheers, 

Paul"bad memories... a service turning into a short-block strip down Noooooo"W

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 12:44:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Major Upcoming Event, USA. 

On Fri, 7 Feb 1997 Dixon Kenner asked about Major Upcoming Events - anybody
have some to ad?  Yes, we do.

The Solihull Society is again sponsoring the National Land Rover Rally.

Dates are 14 through 17 August, 1997.

Location is in the Red River New Mexico, about 30 miles north of Taos.

If you have any questions, please contact me by E-mail or write to:

        John Wood
        Rally Coordinator
        The Solihull Society
        PO Box 916
        Monument CO 80132

Y'all come now, hear!

Paul Donohue
donohuepe@aol.com
Secretary, Solihull Society
A Land Rover club serving Colorado and the rest of the world.

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 10 Feb 97 09:58:22 MST
Subject: Re: Who let out the Lucas demon this time???

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
This one is a '70 109. I've had it for about 2 years now, and have used
it for some trails, but not really heavy duty "Camel trophy" type of
things, mostly trails, river crossings (under 30" or so deep)...
basically light to medium duty use.

First 2 axle breaks (one long, one short side) were under very normal,
in fact, very EASY letting out of the clutch at a traffic light. Not
harsh or abusive at all! First break (short side) was a NASTY looking
break, where the axle had obviously twisted, and bent, and literally
shattered along about an 8" section. I had to drop the center section
out to get the inner piece out.

Second axle to break was very nice and convenient, as it broke flush
with the outer hub, and I was able to simply remove the hub and use a
pliers to grab the axle and remove all of the remaining part. (this was
the long axle)

Third axle (short side again) broke recently while basically "dumping"
the clutch at roughly 2000 rpm. Had the axle held together, this would
have been enough to "chirp" the tires, which was the desired effect (to
"show" my disapproval of the traffic situation). Dumb move... VERY dumb
move! You just can not abuse these axles, especially as old as they are!
Guys, watch that testosterone level!!! Instead of looking like the
"P'd-off a**h***" that I was being, I ended up being totally humbled by
Sir Lucas. The worst part, was that it was on a slight incline, on a
BUSY freeway and I have freewheeling hubs that were NOT locked, AND my
handbrake wouldn't hold the 109 from moving! Imagine this joker, jumping
out of a rolling vehicle, and locking the hubs with one hand, while
pulling it at the front bumper with the other hand, and doing this to
both sides, while traffic was ZOOMING along on BOTH sides if me!
Certainly a brush with death! This time it sheared at the inside spline,
inside the spider gear. Once again, I had to drop the center section to
remove the broken end, but I also had to remove the ring gear, and pull
the pin that goes through the spider gears, as it was stuck and had to
be pounded out. It was so wedged in there that it left scratches in the
casing (I guess it's part of the spider gear?) as it was driven out.

On the positive side, my diff fluid is getting changed with considerable
frequency! ;-)

As I have only had the vehicle for about two years, I can not account
for it's use over the past life of 27 years. May be just old parts???

The second short axle that broke was a spare that I got thrown in the
deal when I bought my '71 88, so again, I have no idea how old it was,
or how it had been used.

Don't know if this helps you at all...

Dave Brown

Habit is the best of servants,       #=======#         _____l___
or the worst of masters.             |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
- Nathaniel Emmens                   | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
-                                    "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)
=========================================================================
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 11:55:05 +0200
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Organization: Computer Science, Pretoria University
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02E (OS/2; I)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Who let out the Lucas demon this time???
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave,

oops, I think it might have been me...but don't worry Lucas got to me
too--starter motor, solenoid, etc.

Anyway:  I asked a while back about people who break half-shafts... and
I am still interested in the topic.  What engine do you have in your
truck?  and how do you normally use it-- serious off-road/heavy
loads/towing/whatever.  I want to get this kind of info from many poor
souls who run into the problem to try and see a pattern.
(Most people seem to agree that these things only break a while AFTER
the real damage was done.)

- Iwan Vosloo
( '75 SIII 88" Diesel SW )

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:56:12 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - <pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it>)
Subject: A call for pictures.....

Hello all LR websites

I am putting together a picture gallery of LR's from the beginning to the end. 
I know this has been done on a few sites, (Dixon ?) but this is for our onsite 
motor club & I would like it to be local rather than a link to one already done. 

So, i'm looking for permission to use some (one of each series) pictures in this 
page, and I know some of you have picture archives lying around.

Any input or picture sources would be much appreciated.

(when the site is up, you will also see my 109" ex-mil beast on display, as long 
as it doesn't end up behind the firewall !) 

Offline e-mail on this would probably be appreciated by the rest of the list !

Cheers,

Paul. <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:27:23 -0500
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: Tilt Paint

Brian Hanson mentioned that certain vinyl paints might work on a canvas
tilt.  I agree and have used such a paint on my transmission tunnel
cover on my Ser III.  After scrubbing it clean one day, I noticed that
it had not retained it's "blackness".  The paint goes on very smooth and
is very flexible. (I can vouch for its durability in the cold, but not
the heat)  I believe the paint was dupli color, vinyl and upholstery
paint.   Bren Workman, bworkman@alaska.net     '72 Ser III 88" "Tilly"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 09:35:38 -0500
From: "Bren & Lynne' Workman" <bworkman@alaska.net>
Subject: Replace 88" Hardtop for Safari Top

I'm currently restoring a Safari Top with Alpine Windows on my '72
SerIII 88", (that is when I'm not vertical under "Tilly"), I have all of
the original "padding" that goes alongside the meeting of the top and
the topsides.  From looking at the safari top as it sets on the garage
floor, it seems that if I replace these black vinyl pads after putting
the top on, they would obscure the view from the alpine windows.  Would
a Ser III, 88" owner with safari top please explain to me what kinds of
black vinyl-over-foam pads they might have between their top and top
sides.  Thank you for your help, Bren Workman.  bworkman@alaska.net   
'72 SerIII 88"  "Tilly"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:06:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Major upcoming events - anybody have some to add? (fwd)

Periodic annoying-type message...

If lucky, this will get reposted about once a month, in unlucky, about 
once a week...  Send changes to dkenner@emr.ca (not @emr1.emr.ca.  emr1
no longer exists as a server.  they renamed it to nrn1)

In general, for North America, information on the larger events can be 
found at: http://off-road.com/RoverWeb/Events/annual_events.html  This
list is just to make people aware of dates for scheduling purposes.  It
is not to give details, small local club events, be a FAQ in its own.  Go
to the site above, or the sites listed below for more information on 
particular events.

More details on the events below (as well as other smaller, local club 
events) can be found at -

	http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/upcoming.other.html

Date		Event
------------	------------------------------------------------
Late May	"May Days",  Parkersburg, West Virginia (BRLRC)
		For general information, contacts etc. -
		 http://www.coe.wvu.edu/~wwwatf/brlrc/brlrc.html

Mid June	British Car Day, Allen Pond, Bowie, Maryland

June 20-22 	Birthday Party, Silver Lake Ontario (OVLR)
		For general information, contacts etc. -
		 http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/

June 28-29	Downeast Rally, Camden Maine
		For general information...
		 http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/Events/DER.history.html

August 14-17	National Rally, Colorado, (Solihull Society)
		For general information, contacts etc. - 
		 http://www.du.edu/~tomills/solisoc.html

Labour Day	All British Field Meet, Portland, Oregon
		(1st weekend Sept.)

mid September	British Invasion, Stowe Vermont

Oct 3 - 5	Mid-Atlantic Rally, Penlan Farm, Virginia (ROAV)
		For general information - 
		 http://204.119.251.4/RoverWeb/Mid-AtlanticII/Middy95.html

October 10-12	Fall Heritage, western Massachussets (BSROA)	
		web - http://www.bsroa.com/

--------------------------------------------------------
Notes:  Sandy, Todd, Jim, Tom, I get your newsletters, so I either swipe 
information from there or you can send to me electronically.

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:46:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Rochester Carb on a 2.25 LR

On Tue, 11 Feb 97, David Bobeck wrote: where would one get such a carb and
would it bolt straight on?

To get one of these fine carburetors, you must first make a pilgrimage to
Rochester NY after which you will be called Haji and people will respect
you.  Or you could visit a junkyard.

The carburetors you seek were fitted onto 1950's GM sixes.  Model B
Rochesters can be easily identified as the venturi is completely surrounded
by float bowl.  This family of carburetors was made in 3 basic sizes with
venturis measuring 30.9mm, 33mm and 38.5mm.  Get the smaller ones.  Be sure
to get one with provisions for a manual choke.  Get the ones with sleeve
style air inlet.

During the last 20 years I have used Rochesters and original Solexes on my
Dormobile.  My impression is that the greater flow of the Rochester gives
better performance on the highway, especially at our altitude in Colorado
(starting at 5,000' and including 13,000' passes).  With it's float bowl
surrounding the venturi the Rochester also operates well at angles.

On 30 Dec 1996, Jim Allen reported the results of his flow bench test of
several common LR four cylinder carburetors:

    "Listing the carbs according to airflow and size, here's how they
    stacked up on the flow bench.  Flow rates are in cubic feet per
    minute at 1.5 inches of mercury.

        Rochester Model BV 1bbl   - 30.9mm venturi - 167cfm
        Weber 34ICH 1-bbl         - 29mm venturi   - 138cfm
        Zenith 36IV 1-bbl         - 27mm venturi   - 127cfm
        Solex 1bbl                - 28mm venturi   - 115cfm
        Weber 32/34DMTL 2bbl      - 26/27mm        - 194cfm
        Weber 32/36DGV 2bbl       - 27/27mm        - 191cfm
        Weber 38DGAS 2bbl         - 36/36mm        - 424cfm

    The big Rochester, with it's oil drum sized venturi, was the winner
    overall (though a slight loss at the low end was noted)."

The Rochester may or may not be a bolt-on fit.  The Zenith adaptor may fit
(I have not seen one) or you could make one.  Otherwise you may need to
enlarge the bolt holes in the carburetor base flange.  As the base is an
iron casting this should be removed and done on a drill press or a mill.  Or
you can check with your tool supplier for hole mover.  Fuel, vacuum and
throttle linkage should be easy to connect.

Happy Converting,
Paul Donohue
1965 Rochester fueled 109

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:53:02 -0500
From: ruepricht@mindspring.com (J. Enrique Poblete)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>happy, and I don't need a flow bench to tell me this.
>                                   ajr
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 558 lines)]
>understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>  -B

Hi there, I'm already subscribed to RRO, please unsubscribe lro-digest
ruepricht@mindspring.com
thanks,
jake

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 13:32:21 -0800 (PST)
From: sosn7667@uwwvax.uww.edu (Christopher R. Sosnay)
Subject: Re: ANNOUNCE> Africa/Brazil: Proj DIRs/Interns/Volunteers

        Hello,
                I am curious about this and would love to do something like
this.  Could whoever sent this, please send me some more info.
Thanks,
Christopher Sosnay
Whitewater WI

PS: Would I get to drive a Land Rover if I did this?
"The more one does and sees and feels, the more one is able to do..."
Amelia Earhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:44:32 -0500
From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re:Drive shaft repair

Is it possibe to repair the slip joint in a Landy driveshaft?  My 1973 Ser
III has a seriously  annoying vibration over about 40 mph that disappears if
the free wheel hubs are used to disengage the moving parts in the front end.
This vibration also goes away if the front driveshaft is temporarily
removed.  The universal joints seem ok, but there is a fair amount of slop
in the slip joint.  Any one tried a driveline repair shop to see if a new
joint can be welded in?  Any other suggestions, other than replacing the
shaft?  Thanking the L-R mavens in advance,
erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:03:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb on a 2.25 LR

I had a Rochester fitted to my '70 IIa for a dozen years or so.  I bought 
it as a conversion kit from A-B which included a 90 degree adapter from 
my Zenith.  It worked well for a decade, but then the butterfly valve 
axis became so worn that it was sucking air through the gap (& leaking 
gas).  I eventually replaced it with a one-lung Weber, which has also 
worked well.

It was not a bad carb.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Ave.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:23:21 -0800
From: "Mark L. Freeman" <mfreeman@murlin.com>
Subject: Overdrive Units for 109's

Does anyone know the company that made after-market overdrives for Land 
Rover 109's? This is not the Fairey or Toro units that attach to the back 
of the transfer case. This o/d was mounted between the frame rails just 
aft of the transfercase. It is, in essence, a single speed auxillary 
transmission. It required  a short prop shaft from the transfer case to 
the o/d and then the original rear prop shaft had to be shortened.

If you any information on these units or have one you would spare, please 
let me know.

Mark Freeman
1975 Series III 109 diesel
1974 Series III 88 petrol

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Jack Walter)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:42:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Major upcoming events - anybody have some to add? (fwd)

Southern Land Rover Society (SOLAROS) is a participating sponsor of the
Atlanta area British Motorcar Day. This year the 14th annual British
Motorcar Day will be held May 10, 1997 at Chateau Elan Winery about 45
miles NE of Atlanta at exit 48 on I-85 from 10:00 am  till 4:00pm.
Preregistration is only $10 for the first vehicle/ $5 for each
additional vehicle. Last year we had 420 British cars including 36 Land
Rovers. For more information contact Ed Hunt 404-299-2827(days), or
Charles Goman 770-491-7573(evenings).

------------------------------

From: C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:50:17 +0000
Subject: RE: Overdrive Units for 109's

What an excellent idea. Could you use one of these as well as
the Fairy overdrive giving a sixth gear or would the gearbox
explode. 

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:25:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bombardier IItis..

T Easton scrawled:
the Bombardier Iltis military vehicle uses the VW Engine (petrol) and Audi
quattro transmission. Anyone out there have experience with the Iltis?

Not with that specific vehicle, but I'm curious about your mention of their
use of the q tranny. Is that with a Torsen diff? Just curious. Lately I've
been learning about those little suckers. Useless off road in a car
(clearance, curious about off road applications), but wicked awsome on ice!
Also just about worthless when broken, and not too hard to fix...
see 'ya on the old road...
jim '61 88" w/OD, 1 Bbl weber, 16's, hubs (econobox?) "Nicky"
jdolan2109@aol.com
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 11 Feb 97 20:10:14 +0000
Subject: Water in a Landie???

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Hi there all,

 >A coastguard was airlifted to hospital today after his Land-Rover patrol
 >vehicle plunged more than 100ft over a cliff. 
 >BUT THEY DON'T SAY HOW THE LAND ROVER IS !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I may be a bit late with this reply, but as I'm on Fidonet there is a 
bit of a delay in this being gated!

It WAS a Ni**an Terranno II. I saw the photos, definetly!

The thing is, Landies ARE the ultimate, when you think of an off-roader 
you think Land-Rover!

It's a bit like "Hoover", the original product becomes a description of 
the breed. Over here in Scotland, we tend to refer to a Land-Rover track 
when we refer to dirt tracks! :-)

Anyway, on with the query, how do you stop water piddling into a ser 
III?? Has anyone tried the 90 door seals? Or other seals???

Also, head linings to avoid condensation? Any thoughts????
 
Catch you later,
Lenny...                                                                  0/2
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                        ______
  Lenny Warren,                                      __/__[__]
  Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                         [________]
  1981 ser III 88" D SW (coming soon!)           ____(o)___(o)____
_____________________________________________________________________________

... Scratch & Sniff ######## Smells Like Glass, eh?
--- Terminate 4.00/Pro
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:259/36.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:39:45 +0000
Subject: RE: Water in a Landie???

Grind off the lip of the door frame and use the 90 door seals
100% better than the Series door seal. As for roof lining I
asked the local car upolster and he sold a sticky back material
that worked a treat (very sticky). It comes in approx 1.5m width
and was sold by the meter total to cover the SWB HT was 30
pounds. The result was very professional and easy to achieve. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:45:59 -0500
From: "G. EMMONS" <"emmons@erols.com"@erols.com>
Subject: Digest subscription

Dear Land Rover Digest,
	Due to all the e-mail I have been recieving, I must unfortunately cancel my 
subscription.  My e-mail address is emmons@erols.com.  
						Thank you very much.
						Grey Emmons

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:00:04 -0700
From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Subject: Parts for sale

- mil tail-gate from IIA. has brackets, cloth pads and straps.

- lift-gate.

- mil fuel tank. two years old.

Best, reasonable offer for each.

Please, contact me directly as I get the digest version and don't always 
read it carefully.

Happy Roving, William
la rana - '66 IIA 109 mil ht

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

  Director of Technology                NetPubs International
  wterry@netpubsintl.com           http://www.netpubsintl.com

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance in the UK
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 16:50:30 -0800

My wife and I spend a month's vacation in the UK every two years, and we
have always rented (hired) a Land Rover while we were there.  Insurance
is VERY expensive.  We were told at one point that if we had an American
Express Gold Card or Visa Gold Card we could obtain insurance that was
quite reasonable.  This turned out to be incorrect.  While there may be
exceptions, insurance from companies like Allstate will cover rental
vehicle damage or theft in Canada and (I think) Mexico, but not in
Europe.

Before our trip last summer, one of our UK friends offered to purchase
insurance for us in England through his insurer, and we could reimburse
him.  He got quotes and everything, but it was soon apparent that this
would save us very little over the cost of purchasing insurance through
the company we hire the vehicle from, so we elected not to subject our
friend to all the paperwork hassles.

The insurance on a 4wd rental can almost equal the rental cost of the
vehicle itself.  This is partly due to the fact that Land Rovers and
vans are popular targets for thieves who use them for ram raiding or
smuggle them out of the country and resell them.  A few years ago the
owner of the company we rent from gave me the owners manual for one of
his Defender 90s.  The vehicle had been stolen some months before and
had finally turned up in Afghanistan.  While it had been seized by the
local authorities for return to England, my friend didn't want it back
due to the damage and wear it had sustained, so he had no more need of
the manual.

At this point, there doesn't seem to be a practical and/or less
expensive way to obtain insurance on a rental vehicle in the UK outside
of purchasing it from the company you're going to be renting from.  I
wish there were, as it adds significantly to the expense of renting a
vehicle.

_______________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer, Boeing Video Services
marin.faure@pss.boeing.com
tel(206)393-7721
fax(206)393-7741

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:55:32 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Overdrive Units for 109's

C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk wrote:

> What an excellent idea. Could you use one of these as well as
> the Fairy overdrive giving a sixth gear or would the gearbox
> explode.

Put it in 4wd and something's bound to give :-)

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: uber@nbnet.nb.ca (JMJasper)
Subject: Re: Bombardier IItis..
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:23:58 -0400

>T Easton scrawled:
>the Bombardier Iltis military vehicle uses the VW Engine (petrol) and Audi
>quattro transmission. Anyone out there have experience with the Iltis?
I've had a lot of experience in the Bombadier Iltis and have also drove off
road in series LRs and other North American 4x4s (pickups  and jeeps mostly).
I got the oportunity to wring out the bombadier Iltis in brutal off road
conditions in Croatia on combat patrols, windows down, top off, MGs on the
hood, rat patrol stuff good fun and the iltis never got stuck.  It's pretty
good in the snow conpared to any thing else, and it's got plenty of
clearance, lockers on front and back, and is light to push out of trouble
with a crew of 3-4.
Problems with the Iltis:
        a.      Its not the same Iltis built by VW, its built by Bombardier
and is not as reliable as its german brother which I've seen in Shilo,
Manitoba with the german army (military vehs are built by the lowest bidder);  
        b.      Its prone to rust badly due to the square construction;
        c.      Its prone to vapor lock out in very hot weather and hot use;
        d.      There is no cargo space whatsoever;
        e.      The back is impossible to get out of especially with any
gear on;
        f.      Like most european 4x4s its underpowered.
My advice to the Canadian army or perspective Iltis buyers:
        Stop!  Buy a defender or a project: Wolf LR.
        Buy a G wagen if you must buy german.
        If you're really rich buy a HMMWV.
        If the above options are out of price range buy a series LR, the all
round practical option.
JMJ        
 
JM Jasper, uber@nbnet.nb.ca
Vitally savage and mentally civilized
                    -Tagore

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 12:59:00 EST

Lenny pleaded:

>I reckon I need to tap out a bigger thread, sleeve it and put the plug
>in. Someone mentioned a "Helicoil" which is like a spring which cuts a
>new thread as it's inserted. Any experience???

Helicoils require a special tap.  Once the hole is retapped to a larger
size, the helicoil insert is installed with a tool and the end of the coil
broken off (the bit used to screw the coil in).

Dad once did all the bolt holes in one of his outboard engines. In
his case it was worth buying the tap and the installation tool.

My Hillman Hunter GT Alloy head is  helicoiled ex-factory in all tapped
holes except for the plug holes.

This is a common mod and in our local auto club mag (equivalent
to the UK AA), there are people advertising they will come to your home
to do the job.  Whether it can be done on a plug hole with out removing
the head.......

I use anti-seize compound on my plug threads.
Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club Of Australia Newsletter "Hillmanews"

Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 17:56:05 -0800
From: Patrick Kullenberg <KULLENBERG@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Water Proof Seat Cover

Somebody posted a request for info on waterproof seat covers. Check the 
big LL Bean catalog, they have them and they don't cost the earth.  They 
won't be a custom fit, but will probably get the job done.
Cheers

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Spring cleaning: Diesel bits FSOT
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 19:37:00 -0700
From: "Kerry M. Oldham" <66lndrvr@itsnet.com>

I would be interested in any 2.25 or 2.5 diesel parts you might have. I 
do have other parts to trade or I will buy if the price is right.

Kerry Oldham
(801) 376-6882 m
(801) 768-8810 h
(801) 768-1988 f

------------------------------

Subject: Re:Drive shaft repair
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 19:41:49 -0700
From: "Kerry M. Oldham" <66lndrvr@itsnet.com>

Any drive line repair shop can weld on a new slip joint for about 70.00$. 
Note however that the rubber dust cover will NOT work on this US type 
joint.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:53:02 -0700
From: Rover2a <rover2a@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Drive shaft repair

Erik van Dyck wrote:
> Is it possibe to repair the slip joint in a Landy driveshaft?  My 1973 Ser

why yes you can have it done by most drive-line shop, check the yellow
or golden pages for your area.
I was just about to do mine I priced it out and it was 119 US this may
vary for your area, check pricing and if they have done any rovers befor
and if they have the spec for the leanth.
make shure that you get the same kind of ends for the u-joints

have fun

Gar 
67 IIA ( no name you think I don't care about it )

PS: if you need specs for the drive-line just ask any-one on the list
but don't say lucus, 3 times or your lights will go out.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:05:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Water in a Landie???

On 11 Feb 97, lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren) wrote:

>Anyway, on with the query, how do you stop water piddling into a ser 
>III?? Has anyone tried the 90 door seals? Or other seals???

I transferred my SIII over to 90/110 style seals a couple years ago...definitely 
an improvement.  Also, its a common rubber extrusion so you can find them non-LR 
for a lot less $$.  It only requires a little grinding of the seats the old 
seals set on....the originals have a little lip which needs to be removed to 
slide the 110 seal on.

>Also, head linings to avoid condensation? Any thoughts????
>III?? Has anyone tried the 90 door seals? Or other seals???
My first incarnation of a roof had some industrial carpet glued to the roof.  No 
condensation to speak of and a bit of soundproofing.  My new roof has 
closed-cell neoprene foam laminated with Cordura fabric glued to the roof.  Only 
a couple days of use, but great soundproofing and no condensation as of yet.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:05:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Units for 109's

On Wed, 12 Feb 1997, "Mark L. Freeman" <mfreeman@murlin.com> wrote:

>If you any information on these units or have one you would spare, please 
>let me know.

FYI, When working on the Great American Race, I noticed many of the vehicles had 
Volvo overdives fitted.  Although I don't know the specs (we changed our rear 
end) it seems like it is a one-piece unit that bolts to output of the 
transmission...transfer case in LR terms and then a shortened prop shaft is 
used.  They were used mostly on Ford Model A's (A lot lighter than a Rover!) but 
the installation was more complex as the Fords used an enclosed prop shaft and 
A-arm setup.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:17:19 -0800
From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@idt.net>
Subject: New Email Address

Subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:36:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Re:Lenny Warren: Help!!!!

                In response to Lenny Warren's problems with his MG Maestro:
     Back in the old days, when VW Beetles roamed the earth and Series Land
Rovers were something new, the air-cooled vee-dubs had a similar problem,
that is they would shuck a spark plug at any provocation. Some clever bloke
designed a stainless(?) insert that resembled a sleeve with internal and
external thread with a flange at the top. This was definitely Not a
helicoil, although installation was similar. As with a helicoil, the first
job was to oversize tap the stripped hole. The same guy created a reamer/tap
that self-aligned, and produced a near perfect thread for the insert. Then
the insert was screwed onto a plug and then installed in the head. The
bottom two threads were such that when the insert bottomed in the head, the
plug expanded the base of the insert so it wouldn't come out when the plug
was removed. And as a bonus, this was all done with the head installed on
the engine! One had to be careful to remove all "swarf" from the cylinder
bore, generally with compressed air with the exhaust valve open. Heck, it's
only aluminium. Takes about 20 minutes, I've done several back when I
serviced furrin' cars. I imagine anyone who works in a VW/Mercedes/Bmw
garage has seen this before. Got nothing against Helicoils, they're just a
Pain to get right and that little stainless drive tang can cause havoc with
piston crowns and valve seats.
       Hope this was some help. 
                            Ruthrfrd@borg.com 

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@idt.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:06:27 -0500

Subscribe

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@idt.net>
Subject: Address Change
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:05:27 -0500

Hi All:

To reach Jim Pappas and/or the BSROA, the new address is:

ROVERHED@MAIL.IDT.NET

cheers
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 23:46:18 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Downeast Land Rover Club URL

   I'm pleased to announce that The Downeast Land Rover Club has a Web Page
up and running.  I hope to find the time to refine it as time goes on.  If
you have any links that you would like to see added to the Links Page,
please E-mail them to me directly!

The Downeast Land Rover Club:  http://www.agate.net/~rovah/

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Rover Club
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 509th COUGARS/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1974 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 20:47:51 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Bombardier IItis (alternatives)

JMJ said:

>My advice to the Canadian army or perspective Iltis buyers:
>        Stop!  Buy a defender or a project: Wolf LR.
>        Buy a G wagen if you must buy german.
>        If you're really rich buy a HMMWV.

No, wait, better yet:  Buy a Foers Ibex.  See:

        http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Help
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 14:22:00 EST

I guess it's time to do what the major says:

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Major,
It's up to you to resolve the problem

There are too many people experiencing problems, you had better scan the LRO 
digests

Regards,

Ron Beckett
 ----------
From: doug adam
Subject: Help
Date: Thursday, 13 February 1997 10:54AM

Help:

I have tried unsubscribe

I have tried unsubscribe rro

I have tried unsubscribe rro dadam@willinet.net

Nothing seems to work. How do I stop the mail.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 01:00:44 -0500
From: "Brian Cramer" <defender@uscom.com>
Subject: Re:Drive shaft repair

Erik,

Any competent drive shaft shop should be able to easily accomplish this.
Good luck.

Cheers,

Brian Cramer
888-434-4678 office
609-273-9708 home
'94 D90 (LRNA #1251)
'90 RR County
'73 SIII swb

At 04:44 PM 2/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Is it possibe to repair the slip joint in a Landy driveshaft?  My 1973 Ser
>III has a seriously  annoying vibration over about 40 mph that disappears if
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>erik
>Erik van Dyck
>Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:23:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Gearbox

My truck has had the original petrol engine removed and a Rover diesel inserted. 
 I believe that who ever did the transplant retained the petrol gearbox.  

The question is: 
Is the gearing the same on both gearboxes?

I suspect that the petrol ones have lower gearing to accomodate better the 
torque wave of the petrol engine.  Is this suspetion true?

Geff Sherman

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <S.Vels>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:26:30 +0000
Subject: Re: MPi?

> From:          "Paul Garside" <pgarside@infocomm.dungeon.com>

> Leafing through my Disco workshop manual, information is included for an
> engine called the MPi,
..
> Is there any evidence this engine was ever fitted to the Discovery? It
> would be interesting, though perhaps too lacking in torque.

Yes there is. One of the mag's had an article not long ago. There 
aren't many around of these underpowered whimps. They were made 
mainly for the markets that base car tax on the engine size.

Not /that/ interesting after all.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "Erik HupjTheta" <378219@sepa.tudelft.nl>
Date:          Thu, 13 Feb 1997 12:06:13 MET
Subject:       Oil cooler

Hi everybody,

In may I'll be taking a 1980 109" V8 to Africa. We want to install an 
oil cooler, but these things our quite expensive when bought new. 
What we are thinking of is buying a used oil cooler from Dutch 
ex-militairy LR's. Most of these are diesel and some are petrol (4 
and 6 cyl.) What we want to know if there is any reason why these 
won't do. Another problem is where to place in inlet and outlet of the oil 
cooler system, the diameters of the hoses and such.

I can't find any technical details about oil coolers so I hope someone can help.

By the way thanks to everybody who gave us tips on our brake 
problems. After a few more bleeding sessions and a adjustment of the 
brake shoes everything is working perfectly. I never imagined that 
the adjusment of the (completely new) brakes shoes is such a delicate job ?!
Fastening the brake adjusters a bit too much or too less immediately 
lead to inferior braking.

Hope anyone has some good tips on the oil cooler,

Erik Hupje (378219@sepa.tudelft.nl)
Delft, The Netherlands
1980 109" 3.5L V8 hardtop

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: castle nutes & circlips (cont)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 11:31:16 GMT

With the first batch bits arriving a day or so ago, I can now start building
some of it (well the handbrake anyway). Still more dissassemble than is
possible to build at the moment though.
Going to have a blitz on the main gearbox tonight.

The castlenut will not shove. Tried a flame, albeit a gas soldering iron.
This time I got the new torque wrench out of its case - thought the leverage
might come in handy. Wedged a screwdriver - as before. Bang! Snapped a
chrome Vanadium screwdriver! Impressive,eh?

I think I'll be taking it to my parents in Leeds this weekend. My father
reckons his torch will do a proper job, and he has some angle steel that it
might be possible to use as a lever.

The circlip is frustating - that's the problem. I can just lift it up, then
snap, it slips!

Alas, the main transfer case is too big to take to Leeds on the train!

Richard

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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