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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Suspension bushes question
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 13:20:19 +0100 (MET)

Simon,
| wondered if anyone has any particular favourites/recommendations
| The Australian 'Ironman' kits are widely promoted in UK and have been 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| iven good reviews in LRO but so have the British 'Polybush' kits 
| (slightly more expensive)
I fitted a set of 'Polybush' last summer and am happy with them. All
people a talked to had them. Ironman and BM are said to be harder,
but I have no first hand info about them. The biggest difference is
that the 'Polybush are 2-piece bushes and are deadeasy to fit.

Hope this helps,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 22:15:58 +1000
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Test. 

Peter Plain prefers pernicious prozac pills permeating parallel party 
poopers parading perpendicular paw paws periodically.

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: 1997 Blinman Land Rover Jamboree, South Australia
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 23:17:59 +1030

The Date: May 17, 18, 19, 1997
The Place: Blinman, Northern Flinders Ranges, South Australia
If anyone is thinking of coming to South Australia around the above dates,
and you want to get your injection of "Land Roveritis" then put the above
date in your diary.
This annual event is run by the Land Rover Register of South Australia
(that means Rover vehicles only - NO other vehicle types) and is a great
place to get together with other Land Rover owners and test out vehicles
while having an incredibly scenic time. The Flinders Ranges are a drivers
delight and a photographic dream come true. Day one will involve a trials
course on a large area of land which is leased by the Register for this
event. The first night will be a street BBQ and street party (yes the main
road through town is closed for the night!) which will run until the very
VERY late hours, and day 2 will be tours around the area to places not
available to the normal 4x4 tourists. These will be on private land and
locals will guide us to "all the good bits"! A camera in your Rover is
almost a necessity. That night will be a formal dinner in the Blinman Hotel
with presentations to winners (and others) from the two day exercise. It is
a fantastic weekend with accommodation available at the local hotel, or in
shearers quarters on local stations (ranches to those over the pond!). You
can see photos of previous jamborees in the September 95 LRW, and my own
article in the May 1996 LRO. The club also has a video tape (VHS PAL)
available of last years jamboree.
If anyone is interested in more info please drop me line
Alan Logue
President, Land Rover Register of South Australia Inc.
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 08:06:23 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: sighting

There is a Series Land Rover in Spies Like Us, which is one of the worst 
movies I've ever seen. Couldn't see the breakfast so I'm not sure of the 
vintage. 

Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:11:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fitting a New Camshaft

On Wed, 29 Jan 1997, jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen) wrote:
>>4) The Rover V8 has a well-deserved reputation for eating cams.  A couple
>>lobes
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>your engine. Also, note that the 3.5L engines were the notorious ones for
>eating cams. The 3.9/4.2L does not seem to show the same proclivities.

The engine is bone stock 3.5 low compression detoxed, originally sold on the UK 
market (although the detox looks like a continental setup).  Cam installed was 
the Crane you recommended with standard Rover lifters.  

Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:11:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: My Rover Leaks (*surprise*)

On Thu, 30 Jan 1997, Lodelane@aol.com wrote:
>Iwan,

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>ala Land-Rover, you would have to drill out all of the rivets, remove the top
>from the side rails, caulk and rerivet.

You could also caulk (with silicone) the inside of the roof along the same seam. 
 Allows you to paint the top in the future.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:13:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: We Survived!!

In a message dated 97-01-31 00:02:19 EST, you write:

<< Also, the little "dynamo" or generator thingy is going to have to go!  It 
 wasn't strong enough to keep the new 12 volt battery charged after a long 
 period of running the lights and heater. I don't even think there will be 
 enough juice in the battery to start it up in the morning (hello 
 hand-crank!)  Can I replace the dynamo with an alternator? >>

If you're driving at 40-50 mph for many hours I'd be surprised if a good
dynamo with a tight fan belt couldn't keep you charged up.  I run every day
with lights and heater on.  I drive about 25 minutes, mostly at 30 -40 mph
and I have never had a problem with my dynamo charging the battery back up
(Even down to -5 F one morning!).

I have a new dynamo, voltage regulator and harness, so I know the system can
work.  I would check to see if the belt is loose first, then check to see if
the dynamo is putting out the juice (the test is described in the manual but
if you need help I can give you some) if those check out, I'd worry about the
VR.

Congrats and have fun!

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Zijp, Ferenc-Jan van" <fjvzijp@telecom.ordina.nl>
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 14:10:00 CET

Hi,

Recently, somebody on the List thought it kinda cool to install a   
rear-window-wiper on his L-R.

In yesterday's Top Gear show (BBC) they explained some of the british   
motortrade slang: a rear wash/wipe is called...a bidet.

For the LR-content: are there any Dormobiles with a bidet installed?

Ferenc "is your rear clear" van Zijp

#     fjvzijp@telecom.ordina.nl
#          ferencj@xs4all.nl
#
#  still roverless, but an avid dreamer
#
#   __________ <--- empty driveway (not even oil-stained)
#
#  An opinion is hard to get by, but when I have one,
#  I seriously doubt it is shared by my employer.  

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: LR-Shops im London? (VAT)
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 21:58:00 EST

> Our experiences on British Airways and
>Northwest are that the airlines are most concerned about carry-on items,
>and frequently don't charge for excess weight of checked baggage.

Interesting.  My experience has been with Asian carriers (including 
Australian) is that they don't check the weight of hand luggage.  They are 
only concerned with checked.

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Hillmans & Rovers
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 21:58:00 EST

Simon wrote:
> Hillman was a manufacturer (part of the Rootes Group)
> and Minx was a model - very good for its time (but it's
>time only lasted about 10 minutes before something else
>bettered it)

Simon,  You'd upset a lot of Minx owners seeing it was around from the early 
Thirties until the late Sixties <grin> and always considered to be a quality 
car. (True)

Q: What was the relationship of Rover and Standard-Triumph with Hillman?

A. Managing Directors Spencer Wilks of Rover and Sir John Black of 
Standard-Triumph were brothers-in-law who had married two of William 
Hillman s daughters.  For Rover s Spencer Wilks, there is another 
connection.  He joined Rover from Humber-Hillman in 1929.  To quote Graham 
Robson s book The Land-Rover, Workhorse of the World, Wilks "did not like 
what he saw and ..... his new policy for the company [Rover] was Quality 
First".  So, a Hillman man had to teach Rover about quality!  In fact, 
Robson calls Wilks "Rover s Saviour"

It's a pity they forgot about quality later (still?)

Robson, in another book The Range Rover Land-Rover compares the price of the 
original Land Rover with other cars of the era.  The L-R cost (in the UK) 
?450 whilst the Ford Anglia cost ?242, the  Hillman Minx cost ?395, the 
Jowett Javelin ?640 and a Rover P3 60 cost ?845.
 I wish I could still buy a L-R Defender at the same price ratio with a 
modern car which would be comparable to the Hillman.

Regards,

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Mike Foster" <mfoster@mail.chromalloy.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Gage on NAS D90
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 20:27:54 -0800

Let's start over again.  The hole in the oil pump housing is tapped  to
1/2-20 (a standard National Fine Thread size).  Aftermarket sending units
typically have a male 1/8-27 pipe thread (a standard tapered pipe thread). 
You have to adapt the male tapered pipe thread to the NFT 1/2-20 hole.  The
method is to purchase a 1/2-20 oil pan drain plug (which has a larger head
that a standard bolt, and should come with a sealing washer).  Drill a hole
in the drain plug and tap the 1/8-27 threads.  Screw the sending unit
tightly into the drain plug, then screw the assembly into the oil pump
housing.  No brazing, welding, excessive force, or other displays of
gratuitous violence are necessary.  Most oil pressure sending units ground
through the housing, so it would not be a good idea to use teflon tape or
pipe dope to seal the threads.

Mike Foster
94 D90 (with working oil pressure gauge)
Carson City, NV

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 9:03:16 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: We Survived!!

Congrats Keith, although I knew you wouldn't have any real trouble. 
As for the battery and charging system; First of all, you're supposed to 
have two six-volt batteries hooked up in series to give you twelve volts, 
one in the engine bay and the second in a box under the left side seat. 
This is because the six volters have more cranking power and reserve.( 
you can forget the hand crank. with 23:1 compression, you'll never get 
the damn thing to swing let alone start! but it's good aerobic exercise 
to try)  If there's only one 12V it means the PO pulled some shenanigans 
and things may not be quite right. Be extra sure the cables are not 
corroded, the terminals have good contact and the ground strap to the 
frame is well connected. Check the connections from the dynamo to the VR 
and the lugs on the solenoid located on the starter motor. If all your 
connections are CLEAN and tight and the belt to the dynamo is tensioned 
properly,then either the dynamo needs new brushes or the VR is no good. 
Cheap fixes.
You may opt to install two twelves and run them parallel, but only if you 
have a ton of accessories should you need this, or if you live in an 
especially cold climate. I'll get the number off the 6V Die Hards I have 
in my truck if you wish.
If the engine was as noisy as you say, you'd best check the valves for 
proper adjustment and time the diesel pump. Also check the connections 
from the exhaust manifold to the tailpipe, as loose exhaust and holy 
mufflers add significantly to the cacaphony. I drove around for quite a 
while with a cracked manifold and when it finally let go ( the result of 
an unfortunate high-centering incident ) I discovered how quiet the 
engine ran with a new one.
With the nice weather predicted for this weekend, you'll certainly have 
plenty to keep you occupied as you give your new baby a good going over. 
Have fun!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:09:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure Gage on NAS D90

Mike Foster writes a great bit about adapting an oil drain plug to mount an
oil pressure sender.

Wonderful write-up, though I might suggest using a copper washer or the
like to get a good contact between
the plug and the block.

This way, a bit of teflon tape can be used to seal the thread with no loss
of conductivity for grounding.

          aj"But REAL Rovers use capillary tube gauges...8*)  "r

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:11:51 -0800
From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes

When breaking the distance piece, I used a Dremel cutting wheel to start 
the crack.  

Regards,

Neil Sheridan
65 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:23:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "K.MOHLENHOFF" <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Subject: Salisbury axles

Hello;
A few rover questions;

1. How do Salisbury axels differ from regular axles besides the number of splines?
Are they shorter?
Are they of greater diameter?

2. Can I bolt a tow jaw assembly to the front bumper of a IIA with a backing plate and use it for on-road towing? Would it be strong enough?
I saw a bumper in either AB or RN catalog which had a recess in the center
and a hole for a pin, which made me think about the tow jaw.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff
Staten Island, NY
krm@nj.paradyne.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:24:52 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: LR in Costa Rica

At 17:43 97-01-29 -0500, you wrote:

-
>Hi all..
>I am going to CR for 2 weeks to sail, surf an dgenerally 4x4.

-Apparently a 4x4 is almost a must to get around there (some hotels write
>in their directions to "ford so-and-so river, turn right".. COOL!)
-
>Naturally, I wanted to find a LR down there, instead of a Toy/S**ki.
>parently these are RRs built in the 70s **IN CR!!** He said these are
- (shnip...)
>So.. does anybody here have any leads on any 109/110 SW possibly for
>rent in CostaRica?   I only know my namesake here on the list, is there
>anybody else?

Hello Jan, 

there was a fellow on the digest from Costa Rica a while back. I searched
through my files and found his adress: 

<keelam@sol.racsa.co.cr>

His name is Patrick Mulheren. I remember that he had just bought a Ser III
88 diesel and had some troubles with it but with a great sense of humor...
Maybe he could help you out.

Good luck, and I hope it helps.

Have a nice trip, 

Michel

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 16:19:17 UT
From: "Stephen Miller" <BOMILCAR@msn.com>
Subject: Gages

 After market gages for my 73 Series III were no problem, but now I want to do 
the same for an 88 RR.  Does any one if there is enough room in the face of 
the dash just to the right of the gage pod and above the AC vent.  It looks 
like I could fit at least two across (2 in.) but the question is if there is 
enough depth?  Has any one else tried put gages in?  I used smith gages for 
the Series III, any one know where I can get smith gages?  No luck at RN.
Thanks
Steve Miller
73 Series III
88 RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 9:27:41 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Okay smartypants....

Are the threads on the brake light switch the same size as those of say, 
a Ford or Chevy? I ask because I think a new switch is in order (lights 
up only when you stand on the pedal) and I'd like to get one from the 
auto parts store for $4.99 instead of $15 from.....This is, of course, 
the type that fits in the T-fitting in the hydraulic line.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 10:41:53 -0500
From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
Subject: Elephant Hide

I once heard a furniture salesman tell a woman the couch she was looking at
was covered in NaugaHide which had great long wearing, anti abrasion
qualities.  He then went on to tell her that Nauga Hide came from Nauga's,
small animals which lived in Africa, which had very tough skin, and that
Naugas had been harvested by trappers who sold the Nauga skins to furniture
manufacturers for more than 100 years.  

NaugaHide is actually an early name for PolyVinylChloride, or "vinyl"
plastic.  It got its name because a good deal of early development work was
done at research laboratories of the U.S. Rubber Company, (Now Uniroyal),
in Naugatuck, Connecticut.  

I've also been told that one of the reasons the company changed it's name
was that the initials were often used in Great Britain to label that which
was UnSatisfactory, as we sometimes label something N.G., meaning, No Good.
 I've always wanted to ask someone if that were true?  Is it? 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 10:39:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Salisbury axles

Q. Can I bolt a tow jaw assembly to the front bumper of a IIA 

A. As long as you are careful when parallell parking behind those little 
plastic cars...

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 10:36:40 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Keeping Your Distance(pieces, that is)

Ode to the Distance Piece

There was a young man from the North
His brake pedal went back and forth 
With no effect on the speed of the ride
His Landy would veer to the starboard side

So he pulled the wheels off for a peek
And found something akin to a leak
It was oil all over his brakes!
A worn out seal! A piece of cake!

He found the directions in the factory tome
So off came the hub and a new seal pressed home
New brake shoes were easily put into place
But lo! He neglected to check the race

And soon his Landy reverted
to that practice quite perverted
Of wandering off to the starboard side
And once again he feared for his hide 

So out came the wrenches
and inside went the wenches 
And off came the drum 
And "gee Am I dumb"

Once again the oil had found its way out
As if it was poured from a teapot spout
He read the dirrections that said "look for scoring"
Previously thought to be simply boring

So heeding the masters directions to a tee
he placed his chisel on the race and shouted with glee
As all it took was one solid whack
And then there appeared a substantial crack

The distance piece which had caused so much greif
Was now indeed a source of relief
For only a bit of hard-earned loot
A new race in place and a seal to boot

Let this be a lesson to all who would try
To change just the seal- you wont get by!
It doesn't take more than a minute or two 
To make the roads safer for me and you...

And when its all over pat yourself on the back
Pour yourself a pint of that brew so black
Sorry its not quite yet time for a ride
Now go and repeat this for the other side!!

Save the Seals
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 16:03:44 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Elephant Hide

>was that the initials were often used in Great Britain to label that which
>was UnSatisfactory, as we sometimes label something N.G., meaning, No Good.
> I've always wanted to ask someone if that were true?  Is it?
I always thought U.S stood for UnServiceable.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Blatant Commercialism 
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 10:45:46 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

>   Possible exception maybe. Advertisers who reply to request put forward by
>   subscribers like how much does a widget for my doda cost.

>   I prefer these myself to be sent as reply to sender rather than as
>   a general circular. I do not mind businesses replying to my queries.

I don't mind them replying to your queries either, as long as they reply
directly to you.

Once a person or persons have made a direct inquiry, is a private matter,
to respond to the list is to take it public, and that publicity is
called advertising.

	Cheers,
	-Bill

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: series ID numbers?
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:23:09 -0800

Hi all,
I recall someone scanning or keying in the listings coming from Land-Rover
giving the assembly dates and shipping info.
So far I can only find Dixon's entry but not complete enough.
Does anyone know the www address of more.
Looking for 65-88 #31800487B info.
Thanks,

Bob B
 __________________________________________________
|>>>>>>>>>>>  bobnsueb@maxinet.com   <<<<<<<<<<<<<<|
|Bob and Sue Bernard,  Paradise, CA,  916-877-5656 |  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
|       '65 88 SW still trying to find his/her name| 
|__________________________________________________| 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:51:19 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Looking for Michelin 7.50 x 16 XS Tires

Mark Freeman asked:

>>Do you know of a source for Michelin XS tires?  Either new or used.  I
>>have three and need two or three more.
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
>>1975 Series III 109 diesel
>>1974 Series III 88 petrol

Jim Allen answered:

>Safari Gard carries XCL, XZL and XL. He might carry XS but I heard they are
>out of production. (909) 698-6114

I think the XS is still in production, that the one that's out of production
is the XCL (essentially replaced by the non-directional XZL).  If SG can't
supply them, certainly you can get them from Redpath/Newlife Tyres in Duns,
Scotland.  I have the address and telephone numbers for R/N Tyres at home
(it's run by a new acquainance of mine, Neil Redpath, a proper bloke--we
were on the Highland Enduro together on the Ibex team, "Team Thunderbex").
E-mail me direct at <gpool@pacific.net> in the evening (California time) and
I'll give you the info if you want it.

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: 31 Jan 97 08:59:45 PST
From: <DV043@OASIS.CALPOLY.EDU>
Subject: Uncl: Update: It thunks, therefore it is. Help!

From: John W. Henricks, Programmer/Analyst
      Institutional Studies
      01-309
Spent last evening under the beast. No, the truck!

1. Put rear axle on jack stands.
2. Checked propshaft play. No problem.
3. Checked road wheel bearings. No problem.
4. Drained rear diff. No bits in the oil.
4. Pulled rear propshaft.
5. Pulled rear halfshafts.
6. Pulled rear diff.

There are two busted teeth on the ring gear (crown wheel?). It would appear
that what I had heard at first was one tooth gone, and then the travel from
that allowed the pinion to chew into the next tooth.
I understand that diffs, and the assemblage of such is rather difficult and
not covered in my shop manual. What are my options?  Try and purchase a used
diff, buy the bits? and try it, or shop it out?

On a less urgent note, I have the Fairey overdrive, it came with the truck
so I haven't witnessed an installation and am unfamiliar with the parts that
were switched out. In the unlikely event of a failure, pause, what bits would
I need to reassemble the transfer case without it?

carpe spannum

John

62 SIIA 109 HT 'Ulysses'

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Net:  jhenrick@calpoly.edu
Tel:  (805)756-5408
Fax:  (805)756-5292

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:04:31 -0800

I think the "capacity" of the hi-lift vs. the jackall is academic. I have a 
4' Hi-lift and it takes a sizable percentage of my meager 150 pound weight 
to jack the back of my Disco off the ground. This has to do with the 
combination of my light weight, the Disco's heavy weight and the leverage 
of the jack. Maybe the Jackall is "geared lower", I don't know.  (Jeremy?) 
Using it as a hand winch is a last resort, and it is certainly no 
substitute to a good electric winch. Again, unless you're a fullback or a 
tackle, that 7 or 8000# load limit will never be an issue. One of these 
days I'll figure out the leverage of the jack (i.e. pounds/feet at the end 
of the handle vs. pounds/feet on the jack platform) but not until the 
weather is nicer here.

Also, if I had it to do over, I'd get the 5' one instead of the 4' one, 
FWIW.

Happy Trails!

- Bob Watson
'95 Discovery
------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 09:21:47 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Jackall or HiLift?

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> Owners with Stuck Rovers,
> Which is your jack of choice, the Jackall or the HiLift?

Depends on which vehicle you drive.  For a Series I tend to go with a 
H-Lift,
my original jack.  However, I recently purchased a JackAll for my D90 
because
it has assorted accessories that are D90 specific, which don't precisely 
fit
the Hi-Lift.. also it higher capacity (8,000lb)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:33:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Uncl: Update: It thunks, therefore it is. Help!

Re: Bad diff teeth:

Personal opinion:

I'd pick up a used one to gget back on the road, then rebuild the old one.

Can be done - LRO had a how-to on how to do it in the past year or so.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:44:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Uncl: Update: It thunks, therefore it is. Help!

In a message dated 97-01-31 12:37:06 EST, you write:

<< Personal opinion:
 
 I'd pick up a used one to gget back on the road, then rebuild the old one.
 
 Can be done - LRO had a how-to on how to do it in the past year or so.
  >>

I picked up a used diff from RN for 350 USD.  They told me that when they
have used diffs if they're at all questionable they strip them down for
parts.  (Implying they inspect the used diffs they sell for possible
problems).

As for rebuilding, the crown gear and pinion (where my old one is damaged)
are relatively expensive (about 200 USD for the aftermarket ones at BP) and
of course you'd want to replace bearings, seals etc...

So in my opinion, it's probably more economical to toss in a used diff, and
forget the rebuild (unless you have the desire to rebuild...)

just an opinion

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=D8rnulf_Sch=F8mer?= <ornulfsc@login.eunet.no>
Subject: Proble with Series III LR
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 18:52:56 +0100

My Landrover Series III, 4 sylinder petrol, is burning off condensators continuously, 3rd condensator in 
2 months. I have fitted a new distributor and nothing seems to be wrong with the distributor, 
none of the fuses blow and everything seems to be ok. 

Has anyone any solutions to this problem?

Ornulf Schomer
Ornulf.schomer@nrk.no

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:53:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Uncl: Update: It thunks, therefore it is. Help!

Nate,

By the way, still looking for an oil-bath air cleaner?

          aj"Still got one"r

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:53:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Reply to the list:

OOps...dopey me....

          ajOOPS....."r

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:59:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Proble with Series III LR

Cooked condensers:

Are you sure your coil is the correct one for a Land-Rover and is still
good?

I suspect you'll find the ignition coil is partly shorted or not a resistor
ignition coil. This is generating currents too large for the condenser to
safely dissipate, and they burn up.

Are your points pitting badly too?

Swap the coil - seems to be the thing to do here.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 12:58:40 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Elephant Hide

> He then went on to tell her that Nauga Hide came from Nauga's, small 
>animals which lived in Africa, which had very tough skin, and that Naugas 
>had been harvested by trappers who sold the Nauga skins to furniture 
>manufacturers for more than 100 years.  

I have one of the few remaining Naugas. They are now protected in some 
areas of the world. There is a large and popular movemenbt to place them on 
the endangered species list. Check out the History of Naugas at:

http://www.nauga.com/ 

Its rather informative.
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 13:08:00 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Uncl: Update: It thunks, therefore it is. Help!

>>. What are my options? 

I would find somebody with a parts truck and give 'em some cash $50-150 
tops for a diff that looks pretty good. Some people have lots of diffs and 
may even give you one. 

>I have the Fairey overdrive,... In the unlikely ***(not so)*** event of a 
>failure, pause, what bits would I need to reassemble the transfer case 
>without it?

The cover plate that goes over the hole, this also contains a bearing for 
the tailshaft. Also the transfer gear that meshes w/the intermediate gear.
Should be able to source these used as well.

Goodum Luckumm
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 21:17:14 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Test.

Ross wrote:
> Peter Plain prefers pernicious prozac pills permeating parallel party
> poopers parading perpendicular paw paws periodically.

Uh... Run that by me again...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:34:39 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Elephant Hide

David M. Schwarz wrote:
> I once heard a furniture salesman tell a woman the couch she was looking at
> was covered in NaugaHide which had great long wearing, anti abrasion
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> was UnSatisfactory, as we sometimes label something N.G., meaning, No Good.
>  I've always wanted to ask someone if that were true?  Is it?
In England we write US (for useless) and NG (for not-good or NO-GO)
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:49:49 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Wobblin' drums need turning?

My 109" just dumped on it's MOT due to bad springs and uneven brake
drums. Just got the new springs fitted - and everyone who has said it's
like getting a new car is RIGHT! it is.

The mechanic said that the inspector faild the drums because they were
uneven and braked accordingly (rear brakes - I couldn't feel the
slightest wobble when braking though, and she braked as straigt as a
die)

First the workshop fitted new drums, but that has mad it worse, the
slightest pressure on the pedal makes the brakes wobble, and you can
feel the wobble hydraulically through the pedal.

Now workshop proposes putting the hubs and drums together on a lathe and
turning them down.

Anyone else had this problem and any experience or valuable war-stories
to offer? Surely new hubs and drums which mate properly are cheaper than
the (danish) labour costs in remating an old pair? Or what?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 21:26:22 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: RE: London

David Cockey wrote:
>Peter Kutschera wrote:
>> My brother in law will travel to London next week.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Sometimes it is cheaper to pay shipping than pick a part up in Britain.
>VAT (sales tax) in Britain is 17.5%, and must be charged on any
:purchases delivered in Britain. It can be reclaimed when leaving Britain
>with the purchase, providing the merchant participates in the VAT rebate
>scheme, furnishes you with the appropriate paperwork, and certain other
>conditions are met. 

One of these conditions is that you are not a EU resident. Sorry to say that 
Peter Kutschera and I both are. On the other hand, VAT in Austria is 20 %, 
and was payable on receipt of the shipment before we joined the EU. So 
buying in the UK is actually a bargain, apart from all the fun involved.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 15:49:49 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Wobblin' drums need turning?

>Anyone else had this problem and any experience or valuable war-stories 
>to offer? Surely new hubs and drums which mate properly are cheaper 
>than the (danish) labour costs in remating an old pair? Or what?

First make sure the drums are on all the way. After putting them on and 
tightening down the screws, give em a few good wacks with a mallet. then re 
tighten the screws and do it again.

Also make sure the shoes are on parallell to the backing plate, and that 
they are properly adjusted. It may take a few miles for the shoes to bed 
in. MOT sounds like a pain in the tuchus.

Oh, and check the wheel bearings for excess play, and the front swivels 
too. Maybe even rotate your tires just for the hell of it.

Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 16:17:54 -0500
Subject: tires..

My tubed 7.50-16s are bulging out of the sides and the treads are
falling apart...

I am looking for advice on a tire that's a good 50-50 AT/MT mix.

1. should i go up to 215-85-16 or stick w. 7.50-16?
2. Kelly and also Cooper have bias plies in that size - should i
consider bias plies?
3. I can't afford $100/tire, and the $80/per in Cooper or Kelly is about
the max.  - any comments against these brands? 
Any other general advice?
thanks a lot
Jan

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 16:30:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Roof rack plans wanted

On 30 Jan 97, debrown@srp.gov wrote:
>FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
>       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>My son is taking a welding class and can make one for me for the cost of
>the supplies if I had the plans.

Plans I don't have, but I made one myself and I'll try to describe my 
experiences.  I used 3/4" square tubing, 14 guage thickness, for almost the 
entire unit.  This proved adequate except for the cross-pieces where I would 
recommend 1/8" wall tubing to avoid sagging when you walk on it. Be careful of 
weight, though. Laying it out is simple: measure the roof to the outside of the 
gutters, this will be the overall measurements of the rack.  Then lay out the 
entire outer rectangle on a flat cement floor, hold them in place with something 
heavy and tack it together.  Repeat the process for another rectangle.  On the 
lower rectangle, place it back on the floor and weld in the cross-pieces.  

Depending on how much time and effort you want to go through you have two 
choices regarding the cross pieces:  First, you can just weld in cross-pieces 
and then take a 3/4" x 1/8" flat strip to run longitutinally on top of these 
cross-pieces.  This is easier but results in a weaker setup and one that is not 
completely flat if you want to put a plywood load space on it at any time.  The 
other method would be to cut short pieces of 3/4 box section and weld them in as 
longitudinal members.

Once this is done, figure out how deep you want the rack to be (usually about 
6") and cut spacers to put between the bottom rectangle and the top rectangle.  
Weld these in at whatever spacing you like (I opened up a copy of LRO and 
counted how many the expedition rack makers used and mimicked that.  You now 
have the load basket portion of the rack.

Attaching the rack to the vehicle is also not too difficult.  Take a couple 6' 
srips of wood that are the thickness that you want the rack to set above the 
roof line (depending on if you have other things up there like a trop roof) and 
set them across the roof. Get someone to help you hoist the load basket onto the 
roof and on top of these spacer strips.  Now its time to install the feet.  

I used 2" x 1/8" flat stock to form the feet.  They fit very nicely into the 
gutter and spread the load somewhat.  Just cut them to the proper length to 
support the rack where it is and weld them onto the lower rectangle.  With this 
setup, however, you have to make sure that a support is placed on the front and 
rear of the rack as well, this prevents the whole assembly from sliding back and 
forth in turns (the flat stock not being too strong along the thin axis.  
Alternatively (and I haven't tried this yet) you can gusset the feet to the rack 
itself.

To clamp the rack onto the roof.  I cut 3" long strips of the flat stock and 
bent 3/8" to 1/2" of the ends to a 45 degree angle.  Just drill a hole between 
this piece and inssert a bolt, tighten, and you have a clamp that holds that 
foot onto the rack.  Attachments for any other things (jack, lamps, etc.) can be 
fabricated as you like.

Cost me 'bout $150 for materials and a long weekend worth of work (including 
plainting). I tought myself to weld with this project and it was a great 
learning experience.

Any other questions, I'd be glad to try and help.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: PeterG4444@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 16:34:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Elephant Hide

Adrian Redmond wrote: 

"In England we write US (for useless)..."

Just curious, Adrian, is this some kind of putdown of US (United States)
goods and services?

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 22:56:08 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: US? NG? KAPUT?

PeterG4444@aol.com wrote:
> Adrian Redmond wrote:
> "In England we write US (for useless)..."
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> goods and services?
> Pete
No insult intended Pete, but US was in common usage in my childhood
(50's and 60's) for useless.

Can't deny that we have a strange humour regarding our transatlantic
friends (and they about us). During the war, in fact for many years
after, it was said in England, typically by people living close to USAF
bases in the UK) that "there are only 3 problems with the Yanks - they
are OVERsexed OVERweight and OVERhere!"

As Churchill said "Two peoples divided by a common language"

But it's all in good humour - after all you guys have bailed us out on a
few occasions this century - we must remember that!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 14:01:01 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: tires..

Jan Ben said:

>I am looking for advice on a tire that's a good 50-50 AT/MT mix.
>1. should i go up to 215-85-16 or stick w. 7.50-16?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>the max.  - any comments against these brands? 
>Any other general advice?

You don't say what you're putting it on (and I don't remember what you
drive) so it's hard to advise about whether or not to change size.  If you
want to preserve overall diameter (about 32") while going to a metric size,
you'd have to go to 235/85R16, not 215/85R16 which is about 30" in O.D.

If you want a good 50-50 AT/MT mix in Cooper, look at the Cooper Discoverer
CTD which my local Cooper dealer had in his book but didn't know existed and
has never carried!  It's rather along the lines of the very popular (in the
UK) BFG Trac Edge (also popular around here on Land Rovers).  I have a
friend here who has put these Cooper Discoverer CTDs on his Range Rover and
is quite happy with them.  Should be better in the mud than an AT, better on
the road (and sand and snow) than an MT.  I believe I heard that they are
tolerably quiet as well.  I'm not sure if the CTD is available in 7.50R16
but I know the Cooper Discoverer STT is (mud terrain).

I'm not aware of what Kelly or others make along these lines.  Ah, except
Dunlop which makes one called the Radial Rover RT.  I think it's a bit more
aggressive than the CTD (and certainly more aggressive than the Trac Edge).
The Tire Rack (advertises in Road & Track and Car & Driver and has a web
site (I don't have the URL handy) carries these at a very reasonable price.
Was made in 7.50R16 until recently and some were still available when I
checked a couple of months ago.

Hope this helps.

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 17:54:55 -0500
Subject: Re: tires..

On 31 Jan 97 at 14:01, Granville Pool wrote:

> If you want a good 50-50 AT/MT mix in Cooper, look at the Cooper Discoverer
> CTD which my local Cooper dealer had in his book but didn't know existed and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> tolerably quiet as well.  I'm not sure if the CTD is available in 7.50R16
> but I know the Cooper Discoverer STT is (mud terrain).

I have Cooper discoverer CTD's on my 88 in 7.50 R 16 and have been very 
happy with them.  They are quiet enough, for a noisy old vehicle like I own 
anyway, and seem to do well off road, though I haven't climbed up any ledges 
for fun like the magazine types do on weekends.  I also run them on the stock rims 
tubeless, though I don't think this is recommended.

Rgds,
Ronnie  

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 15:51:32 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: tires..

Ron Franklin said:

>I have Cooper discoverer CTD's on my 88 in 7.50 R 16 and have been very 
>happy with them.  They are quiet enough, for a noisy old vehicle like I own 
>anyway, and seem to do well off road, though I haven't climbed up any ledges 
>for fun like the magazine types do on weekends.  I also run them on the stock 
>rims tubeless, though I don't think this is recommended.

Definitely not!!  I have a Michelin dealer's data book that's a couple of
years old wherein this is discussed in detail, showing different rim types,
etc.  The upshot is that even on tubeless Michelins, a tube (radial tube
only!) must be used if the tyre is to be mounted on older non-safety-bead
type rims.  I've always heard that Michelin tubes are best (who knows?) and
should be readily available in size 7.50x16.  Might be hard to find a radial
tube in that size in any other brand.

That said, Ron clears up the uncertainty about the availability of the CTD
in size 7.50R16; it was at least available at one time!

BTW, if you want to run 235/85R16s and want to get suitable-sized (7.00" x
16") safety-beaded-rim wheels for them, you can get the steel Discovery
wheels which have an almost flat center with five ovalish cooling slots.  I
like the looks of them but some don't.  In the U.S., they were supposedly
stock on D90s but how many have you seen?  They are also used as the spare
wheel on the U.S. Discoveries.  New they are quite expensive but you can
often find them used at Famous Four in England (in Louth, Lincs.) for #25
each, plus shipping, duty, etc. (they were out when I was in there but
usually have them).  You can contact Famous Four via e-mail, by the way, at
<Fam4x4@aol.com>  I have two friends currently running them on Series
Land-Rovers (a 109 and an 88), both running BFG MT 265/75R16 tyres.  No
clearance problems as far as I've heard.  And I have also seen them on
Defenders, Discoveries, and Range Rovers.

Granny

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 18:56:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: tires..

On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, ben@bell-labs.com wrote:

>3. I can't afford $100/tire, and the $80/per in Cooper or Kelly is about
>the max.  - any comments against these brands? 

I've got Coopers, great tires. Probably as not much tread wear as a Michelin but 
at $80 each, they can't be beat.

Rgds,
_______________________________________________________________________
Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:21:51 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Clutch woes

Dave is having a spot of trouble with the clutch hydraulics.  As the master 
and slave have been rebuilt, there is but one more source for a spongy pedal 
- one that is oft overlooked: the flex line.  On a LHD vehicle, the clutch 
line crosses the firewall to a flex line between the bulkhead and the top of 
the belhousing.  It is a *mutha* to get to, tho' easily accessible when the 
tranny is out.  A freshly-rebuilt system should almost be self bleeding if 
the slave bleed screw is left open.

BTW, mine had that little extension pipe for ease of bleeding (Ser III 
owners will know what I mean), yet is wasn't connected to anything. Duh! 
Whoever was working the line that day at Solihull simply put a bleed nipple 
directly into the slave.  QC was on annual leave back then.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:21:55 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: TGMBC II

Larry Smith found a reference for "The Gods..."  Don't bother with "The Gods 
Must Be Crazy, II" as there are absolutely no Rovers in it anywhere. Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 97 22:11:35 UT
From: "Charles Proctor" <proctorlaw@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Chevy's in Landies

Rob call me I used a brand new chevy marine starter, very small, in my recent 
conversion of 3.0 liter 4 cyl merc marine engine. I have a spare one - brand 
new. tel 508-987-2626 Charlie Proctor 

----------
From: 	MacCormickRob 
Sent: 	Tuesday, December 03, 1996 8:11 AM
Subject: 	Chevy's in Landies

Hello!
I read with interest as Jim Allen shared some thoughts on dropping a 350
into a Landrover....

"The starter may interfere with the front driveshaft." 

We've got a (mid '70's?) Chevy Straight 6 where a LR six once was and I
noticed the other day that part of the starter does indeed interfere with
the front driveshaft...The starter housing has a small chunk (looks like a
casting for a bolt "flange?" that was never drilled or tapped) sticking out
of it (this appears to serve no function) and when the front axle
articulates up, the chunk scribes a neat line in the driveshaft......Anyone
have any thoughts on improving this condition? (helpful, abusive, and/or
otherwise equally appreciated) We don't anticipate the need for radical
articulation but I would like to head off potential problems.....Any reason
I shouldn't grind off this little nubbin sticking out of the starter housing? 

climbing (as fast as a snail) the learning curve and enjoying every step.....

Rob M 
Concord, MA USA
IIa dormobile

------------------------------

From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 22:57:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: A frame ball joint

We don;t own a land-rover. please take me of your list.

------------------------------

From: PWright@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 22:59:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: We Survived!!

Please!!!!! remove me from your list.  I don't own a land rover.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 22:24:20 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Test.

>Peter Plain prefers pernicious prozac pills permeating parallel party
>poopers parading perpendicular paw paws periodically.

OK, the P button works like a champ...

Never pet a burning dog.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:36:06 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: TGMBC II

Sandy Grice wrote:

> Larry Smith found a reference for "The Gods..."  Don't bother with "The Gods
> Must Be Crazy, II" as there are absolutely no Rovers in it anywhere.

Not true!  There are a bunch of Land Rovers in it.  The military vehicle 
convoy, which is shown a time or two, is full of D110s and Unimogs.  Very 
cool.  There's also a rare Austin Gipsy in that one for a while.  Also an 
impressive Scania truck.  But the star of this one, instead of a Land-Rover, 
is a funny little guppy-looking, twin-engined ultralight aircraft.  The badger 
and the kids were great, too.

I really enjoyed that movie, just as much as the first one, I think.  Watched 
them both many times and will probably eventually buy both.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 08:00:31 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Elephant Hide

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> In England we write US (for useless) and NG (for not-good or NO-GO)
> --

US is an international acronym for un-servicable, meaning a product has
reached the end of its useful life and can no longer be repaired
(serviced).

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

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