Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven51(Fwd) GM diesel conversion
2 Solihull@aol.com 20Re: Engine Conversions.
3 ASFCO@aol.com 24RR Models F/S
4 NADdMD@aol.com 17VIN number plates
5 RykRover@aol.com 17Re: RR Models F/S
6 twakeman@scruznet.com (T17Re: VIN number plates
7 ASFCO@aol.com 9Re: RR Models SOLD !!
8 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR11Re: what do you call...
9 van decar [vandy@mail.en70Part Two
10 van decar [vandy@mail.en10Sorry
11 van decar [vandy@mail.en31SCOTS
12 David Place [dplace@mb.s19Sandy Grice and visor
13 Michael Carradine [cs@cr14Double Messages Double Messages
14 rhodesia@juno.com (Chris11[not specified]
15 g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)17LRs on Car Talk
16 Adrian Redmond [channel630CD Radio
17 David Place [dplace@mb.s10Heater improvement IIA and III
18 Steve Stoneham [stoneham8LandRovers on the Discovery channel
19 David Place [dplace@mb.s32Heater
20 faurecm@halcyon.com (C. 59Re: Oil Filter for D90
21 rover@pinn.net (Alexande25External sun visors
22 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.27Directions to BSROA party
23 Greg Moore [gmoore@islan14Re: Heater
24 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr17Re: What do you call...
25 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh49RE: CD Radio


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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 07:53:46 -0500
Subject: (Fwd) GM diesel conversion

Jorge,
Thanks, I had also heard that the 6.5's are the way to go.  A friend of 
mine had an early 6.3 in a Chevy pickup and had a lot of problems with 
heating/cooling and had to replace the expensive starter every year.  

you don't mind me forwarding this to LRO.

Rgds,
Ron

------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From:          SgtJMR@aol.com
Date:          Sat, 21 Dec 1996 23:34:57 -0500
Subject:       GM diesel conversion

Ron,

I pondered that conversion as well for a LR.  I drove Hummvees (uses the GM
diesel) in the Marines (US) for 3 years and thought they were great.  But
they came in brand new and by the time of my departure had less than 30K
miles on the odometer.  

GM had 3 diesel engines available 6.2L, 6.5, and 6.7L.  I believe that the
6.2L was used with or without turbo (but turbo models were non-military).
 From what I gather the surplus engines being sold in the UK are ex-military
from the US.

I checked with my machine shop in the States (I'm in the Philippines now)
about surplus ex-military diesel engines.  Kent, another Marine from the old
days (WWII and Korea) told me that with high mileage units (70K and up miles)
he has seen a lot of problems with the 6.2L and 6.7L.  This meant complete
overhauls, which is expensive on a diesel.  If I recall, he said these blocks
suffered from cooling system problems.  The coolant jackets were not adequete
enough to properly cool the block under extreme conditions.
  
His recommendation to me was to seek out a 6.5L.  This had larger coolant
jackets than the 6.2L, but didn't run hotter than the 6.7 (which I believe
uses the same block as the 6.5L).

Hope this helps!

Jorge

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 08:04:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions.

>>I modified my S III 109 Wagon from its non-original S IIa 2.25 Rover diesel
>>to a 3.9 Isuzu 4 Cyl diesel and also changed the worn out S IIa gearbox for
>>a Ni**an 5 speed truck gearbox.The rest of the drive train is standard Land
>>Rover.
Sounds like a nice clean conversion that does all the stuff you want it too,
but what I want to know, is where did you get the bits to bolt the nissan
transmission to the LR transfer case? Enquiring minds want to know!
 TIA!! 
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 09:23:28 -0500
Subject: RR Models F/S

   I was cleaning out the basement and found 2 RR Model kits.   They are 1/24
scale
and are both complete, and ready to be built.  Price is $25 each which
includes shipping.

from 1980/81
 2 Dr. RR     Paris/Dakar Winner

from 1883 
  2 Dr. RR   Camel Trophy 
this one has brush guard and a full roof rack with sand traction ramps jerry
cans/aux lights

Please e-mail direct
Happy Holidays
Steve Bradke         72 S  lll 88
                            68 S lla 88
                            96 Discovery SE-7  

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 10:12:49 -0500
Subject: VIN number plates

Hi all,

I have a bodged up VIN number plate (bent up with screw holes broken off and
writing scraped up) but still with the VIN clearly visible.  Actually, it
looks like the PO removed it once with a pry bar.  Is it possible to get a
replacement Land Rover plate or would I be stuck with 1) making do with what
I have or 2) having a new plate stamped but forget about a Land Rover plate?
Thanks in advance

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 10:25:13 -0500
Subject: Re: RR Models F/S

ASFCO I am interested in both items , especially the `83 Camel Trophy item
you can reach me at  RykRover@aol.com   or
Rick Valentino
435 Darby Lane 
Bel Air , MD  21015
(410) 515-7908                              P.S. I tried to e-mail you at aol
, they said you        
                                                           were not a "known
aol member"                      
                                                            Happy Rovering ,
Rick

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 07:25:05 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: VIN number plates

At 10:12 AM 12/22/96 -0500, NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
>Hi all,
>I have a bodged up VIN number plate (bent up with screw holes broken off and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Nate
>NADdMD@aol.com

I believe British Pacific carrys new ones.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 10:47:25 -0500
Subject: Re: RR Models SOLD !!

Sorry ....both gone
Rgds
Steve

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 11:07:19 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: what do you call...

On Fri, 20 Dec 1996 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:

> 93  110  Yeah, I know it has coils but I'm trying to change that so y'all
> will let me stay on the list. The things we do to stay on a list...

	Ohhh!  Going to leaf a coiler!  This should be interesting... :-)

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 16:07:31 -0800
From: van decar <vandy@mail.enterprise.net>
Subject: Part Two 

And now for the second lesson.  Rovers three, twenty six. :)
This part starts as I leave on a Sunday for Dallas to drop off my Rover for shipment to
England.  As you may remember when I last left y'all I had just picked up SloMo from the
dealer after having the main input shaft replaced on the transmission.
  I got an early start, driving North on  IH-35 out of San Antonio, hoping to get there 
early enough to get a room and some sleep before starting out on Monday.  The trouble 
started about 40 miles south of Dallas.
  I stopped for some petrol and as I was filling the tank, I noticed a multitude of dark 
spots on the back of the soft top!!  HMMMMMMM, what could these be?  With great
trepidation I looked underneath the Rover to see if anything was wrong.  Yep you guessed
it, copious quantities of gear lube dripping off of my transfer case! : (  I t looks 
like my little voice was right and now I was paying the price for putting the pressure 
on the service guys at Gunn Land Rover.  Don't get me wrong, I was not letting them off 
the hook, quite the opposite, I was swearing up a storm!  Their ears should have burned 
and fallen off! ;)  
  I was in another bind.  I had to choose between continuing my trip (about 50 miles) or
stop and call Road Side Assistance.  I chose to keep driving, figuring that if I did 
break down, at least I would be closer to Dallas when it happened.
   Luckily I had a decent map of Dallas and luckily, I found a dealer close to my 
intended route!  My plan was to stop off at the dealer first thing in the morning and 
see if anything could be done.  My plane to Heathrow didn't leave until 3:00 p.m. so I 
had a little time to do something.  Of course, if nothing could be done, my options were 
to take SloMo with me as is and fix it myself when I got to England.  The wonderful 
warranty we enjoy in the states is invalid if you leave the CONUS!  My other option was 
to leave SloMo at the dealer and hope I could arrange for it to be shipped with out me 
being present.  
Neither option was very appealing as I figure a new transfer case would cost somewhere 
around $1,000 to replace and if I left SloMo, I would have to give someone a Power of 
Attorney over SloMo!!!
  I arrived at the dealer at 7:00 a.m. sharp so  I could be the first one in line (I 
was).  It took me about 30 minutes to explain to the service rep the dire straits I was 
in.  You have to admit, it was a pretty weird situation. : ) As I waited for the 
prognosis, I called the shipping terminal that was going to handle SloMo, and they 
assured me I could arrange all the shipping details from England.  The only thing left 
was to see if  I could bribe, beg, or plead someone at the dealer to drive it over after 
it was fixed.  It would have been a 60 mile round trip.
  The service manager said they could drive it over and it wouldn't cost me a thing.  I 
think she took pity on me as I was sicker than a dog and coughing up huge lung cookies. 
 I must have looked like KAKA.  Around 9:00 a.m. I was informed that the problem was 
relatively minor, the tech at Gunn Land Rover had failed to tighten a couple of bolts 
holding the transfer case to the transmission, hence the leaking.  Transfer case would 
have to be taken off and new gasket or sealer put in and the transfer case bolted to the 
transmission.  I was not optimistic about leaving with SloMo.
  I figure I had to jump off the fence around 12:00 p.m. in order to make the 
international check in at Dallas/Ft.Worth International.  Around 11:30, they told me 
SloMo was ready and in good health and a new bonnet release cable thrown in for good 
measure!  I hopped into SloMo and hightailed it up to the shipping company to drop her 
off.  So I guess things worked out in the end, but I could do without the stress.
In closing, a double dirty dog shame on you to Gunn Land Rover for not doing the repair
properly the first time.  In all fairness though, they have been an exceptional dealer 
during all other visits.  They have been very understanding when I dropped off SloMo for 
some work and told them I would need the loaner car for a whole week since I could only 
get to San Antonio on Fridays, to drop off/pick up SloMo.  Living in Del Rio, it is a 
three hours drive to San Antonio to drop off and then you need a ride back (if you don't 
have a loaner).  The Air Force isn't fond of us taking time off to do something as 
trivial as picking up a Rover.!! Enough of  that, I would like to extend a hearty "Well 
Done" to Land Rover Dallas and especially Jan Ivey the Service Manager there for working 
above and beyond to help me out. : )

P.S. Land Rover Dallas is at 11400 North Central Expressway.  They have an Eco
Challenge Disco out front.

Cheers
Chris Van Decar
'94 D90 SloMo VII

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 16:11:02 -0800
From: van decar <vandy@mail.enterprise.net>
Subject: Sorry

My most humble apologies for what just occured. I thought I was having 
problems with my modem.  I in no way think the posting is worth reading 
three times.  Don't kill me, please.  :)
Chris V.
94 D90 SloMo VII

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 16:14:08 -0800
From: van decar <vandy@mail.enterprise.net>
Subject: SCOTS

Some more SCOTs (Stupid Current Owner Tricks)
1.  When replacing the sparkplugs on your D90 be very careful on how you re-attach the
plug leads or you could end up with a very rough engine making very embarrassing sounds. 
If, like me you do something stupid like, assume that the plug leads are routed through 
the looms in the same order as they go on the plugs you are so wrong!  For whatever 
reason, Land Rover decided to route the number five plug ahead of the number three plug 
wire on the wire looms!!!!  There is a very nice drawing of this on page 19 of the 
manual. Amazing what happens when you follow the directions!
2.  When bleeding your hydraulic clutch, realize that the reservoir is very small.  My
reservoir is partially buried underneath the wire looms for the PIAA lights on top of 
the roller so when I looked at it all I could see was the plastic cap and again assumed 
that it was a plastic reservoir like the brakes.  Wrong!  it is cast metal so you can't 
see how much is in it unless you take the cap off.  Some of you may have guessed where 
this is leading. Suffice to say that I ended this little exercise with a large puddle of 
brake fluid on the ground, copious amounts of fluid running down the side of the wheel 
well.  Lesson learned, you have about one pump of the clutch pedal  before you need to 
add more fluid.  Oh Yeah, one more thing, do not, do not, open the bleed valve on the 
master cylinder with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, especially when you don't 
have a bleed hose attached to the fitting!  Yep, brake fluid on the face.
  In case any of you were wondering if the light guards on the back of your D90s work,
they do.  I ops checked them the other night against a light pole and a really foggy
Cambridge night.  They are slightly bent but the lights are not cracked and still work. 
: )
Cheers!
Chris Van Decar
'94 D90 SloMoVII

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 13:23:45 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Sandy Grice and visor

Sandy, is it possible to get the pattern for a visor?  Actually anyone 
who is willing to take a paper pattern would do.  My son is a machinest 
and has access to all the necessary bending equipment etc. plus I have a 
brake and mig in my shop so I think we could do the whole job here.  How 
much does it cut down on seeing traffic lights?  Right now I have to duck 
a bit to see the traffic signals, otherwise not a problem.  

I think after everyone mentioning the reroute of the heater intake for 
the Kodiak, I am going to do it to mine.  There really isn't any reason 
to take outside air into the heater box and try to warm it from -40 to 
some usable level.  Maybe recirculation is the key.  Has anyone found a 
source of the little bowden cable that changes the heater from interior 
floor to front windscreen.  It is only about 8" or so long and mine has 
broken.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 11:07:37 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Double Messages Double Messages

Anybody else on the real time lro list getting double messages of
everything?

Kind regards,

                      ______
Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
510-988-0900          [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
cs@crl.com _________.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 14:43:32 PST
Subject: Land Rover trials
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R Whitehead)

Saw and taped this programme today, but the most interesting things on it
were the commercials. Must have been more enjoyable to be there than to
watch a tape of it.

Cheers

Chris W

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From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: LRs on Car Talk
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 23:13:19 GMT

Sighted (or heard) Land Rovers on Car Talk. (For those outside of FM
radio range of this show check out www.cartalk.com.)

A woman called in for advice on her husband who wants to buy a 63 107
inch. She wants to know why and Tom and Ray sided wth her husband. She
asked where you get parts and they said the lack of parts was part of
the joy of ownership.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 00:22:42 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: CD Radio

Anyone have any experience with LR mounted CB radio?

I have just aqquired a Danita Mark3 Green 40 channel CB transceiver,
presumably on the 27 Mhz band and need to buy and fit an antenna on my
LR SIII 109 hard top.

What sort/size/length of antenna is recommended? where is the best
mounting place in relation to SWR characteristics of the 109?

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 19:08:47 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Heater improvement IIA and III

After all the talk about the Kodiak heater, I went to look at mine.  Has 
anyone tried just turning the fan motor 180degrees onto it's side so the 
intake point to the footwell and plumbing it in.  I was just out looking 
at mine and it looks like it might just work.  It sure would beat trying 
to heat the cold outside air.  Dave Ve4PN

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 21:06:24 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: LandRovers on the Discovery channel

Tonight at 9:00pm eastern I understand there will be some footage of 
Series LandRovers used during filming of the program"Leopards".
Steve

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 21:20:34 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Heater

I have been getting bounces from the other address I have used for the 
net so please forgive me if you see this twice.
All the talk about the Kodiak heater and how it might be modified to pull 
air from inside the cab rather than through the outside fender has me 
thinking.  I went out to the shop to look at the system and I wonder if 
anyone has tried turning the fan motor 90 degrees onto its side so that 
the intake faces the footwell and then plumbing in a pipe?  It looks like 
it could be done.  Failing that, the motor could be mounted in place of 
the air breather if you are not a purist, or like me you might want to 
mount it on the driver side fender opposite the battery.  There is lots 
of room there, and you could use flex hose like the breather uses to 
plumb it in.  It would look not bad I suggest since you could use the 
same type of hose the breather uses or you could use lighter hose in 
hopes of picking up a little engine compartment heat on the way.  I am 
going to try to move it tomorrow just to get an idea of the problems 
before I cut the footwell open.  I have the facilities to fabricate 
almost anything I could need to make a nice job of it.  A brake and a MIG 
should let me do just about anything I might need.  
Has anyone got a template of an engine adaptor for a Chev V6 to the 
standard IIA transmission they would be willing to share?  Brown paper 
pattern for example would be fine.  Finally does anyone have a pattern 
for the visor?  Like the adaptor, I wish to try to make one in my shop as 
a winter project.  Even though I have a pristine Ser IIA that I don't 
intend to change in anyway from stock, I am thinking of buying a project 
vehicle just for the fun of trying some modifications and the V6 has been 
a dream of mine.  I think it would make a nice daily driver for lets say 
a trip to Owls Head from Manitoba :-)  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 19:56:28 -0800
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Oil Filter for D90

>From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
>Subject: Re: Oil Filter for D90

C. Marin Faure wrote:
>>If the V-8 as fitted to the D90 uses the same oil filter as the filter used
>>on my 1991 Range Rover 3.9 V-8, you can use a Fram HP-1.  It costs about
>         [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>>V-8, then I can't help you.

>Mr. Marin,
>        Thanks for the information.  I was not aware of the anti-drain
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>sump first, fill it with fresh oil and then add oil to the new filter,
>about 2/3 full, then change the filter.

I am going strictly by the Range Rover owner's manual and the Fram filter
guide.  According to manual, the oil change procedure should be as you
describe, draining the sump first, filling it with new oil, and THEN
changing the oil filter.  The manual seems very insistant that this
procedure be followed but it does not say why.  My independent BMW mechanic
friend speculates that it might be to keep the Rover V-8's external oil
pump from draining into the sump.  Perhaps the oil in the sump covers some
passage that would allow air into the pump and let it drain back.  This is
total speculation,  however, and may well be wrong.  Most engines use an
internal pump that is submerged in the oil in the sump, so drain-back is
presumably not a problem.

My understanding is that a Fram HP-1 can be substituted for a PH-8, but not
the other way around.  They are both the same size and have the same
thread, so they will both fit.  However, the Fram literature seems quite
specific on the use of an HP-1 on a Range Rover, and not a PH-8.  I have
been told the HP-1 has an anti-drain valve and the PH-8 does not.
Apparently, it's not a good thing to let the Rover V-8's external oil pump
lose its oil, so the HP-1 (and I assume the filter supplied by Land Rover
dealers) have anti-drain valves to hold oil in the pump body.

Now Fram may be specifying the HP-1 for the Rover V-8 to make more money,
and a PH-8 may work just fine.  But having paid a bunch of money for the
car, I figure the cost difference between a PH-8 and an HP-1 isn't enough
to make it worth taking the chance.  I also follow the oil change procedure
outlined in the RR manual religiously, and change oil and filter every 3K
miles.

As you do, I also pour about 3/4 of a bottle of new oil (I use Castrol GTX
20-50) into the new oil filter before fitting it, on the assumption that
this will reduce the time the engine is running with no or low oil
pressure.  This was a tip from a mechanic, and I do it on every vehicle I
own except my Land Rover Series III which uses a cartridge filter in a can
with a big bolt hole in the bottom.  I may be doing more than I need in
terms of filters and oil, but flying airplanes equipped with air-cooled
radial engines has taught me that clean oil is cheap reliability insurance.

C. Marin Faure
        author, Flying A Floatplane

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 23:20:07 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: External sun visors

Mishael Slade writes:

>If he ever decides to reproduce them again, I've got about 3 other
>Oregonian Rover owners who would LOVE to get their hands on one.

*Such* a deal I have for you!  ;-)  I need to have orders or requests for 
six or so before I go to the metal shop.  These are rock solid and will 
withstand the footfalls of the neighborhood urchins who view a Eover with a 
roof rack as playground equipment.  Cost is $75 to club members (at least it 
was the last time I had 'em made - it may have gone up) $85 to non-members.  
Shipping is $15 close by, $22-24 to the left coast.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: Directions to BSROA party
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 23:26:39 -0500

REMINDER:  SATURDAY, JAN 4th 7PM - 10PM

DIRECTIONS TO A MANO CATERING:

>From the Mass Pike, take route 128/95, exit South, past routes 16 and 9, =
to exit 19B (Needham/Highland Avenue). At the first light turn right =
onto GOULD ST. And follow to the end. Turn right onto CENTRAL AVE. Go =
under the 128 overpass and take first right onto RESERVOIR ST. Panella's =
Market will be on the left corner of Central and Reservoir and Brothers =
Pizza is on the right corner. After you pass Brothers, the first =
building on the right will be Play it Again Video. We are the next =
building, #301 on the right, a low tan brick building.

P.S. - just look for some Rovers!! Plenty of free parking around the =
immediate area.

RSVP to Club line 617-545-4743 and mail checks for food ($35/person) to: =
BSROA, POB 342, North Scituate, MA 02060.

Cheers
Jim

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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 21:23:17 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Heater

David Place wrote:

> Has anyone got a template of an engine adaptor for a Chev V6 to the
> standard IIA transmission they would be willing to share?  Brown paper
> pattern for example would be fine.

I've got one I could measure. Let me know what dimensions you need.

Cheers, Greg

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 00:08:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: What do you call...

At 02:42 PM 12/20/96 EST, you wrote:
>          call a group of Land Rovers. Now Im wondering what
>          you would call a group of Land Rover Owners?

Land Rover Owners Association?  (Sorry, couldn't resist.)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------
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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: CD Radio
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 12:39:51 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Adrian Redmond[SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk] wrote:

Anyone have any experience with LR mounted CB radio?

I have just aqquired a Danita Mark3 Green 40 channel CB transceiver,
presumably on the 27 Mhz band and need to buy and fit an antenna on my
LR SIII 109 hard top.

What sort/size/length of antenna is recommended? where is the best
mounting place in relation to SWR characteristics of the 109?

Best place is where it gets the largest groundplane, 
that means in the centre of the roof.
Use one of the mounts that goes through a hole in the roof.
The antenna will normaly be a whip-type, the dealer can tell 
You how many dB it "amplifies" with. The more the better, but 
this will often give a rather long antenna. 
I have one called 5/8 wavelength (lambda), shortened with a 
coil. Thath gives a total length of 1.95 m (6'5"). looks 
reasonable on top fo the 110", but crazy on a normal car.
It receives and transmits realy good, flat radiation because 
of the good groundplane, powerfull because of the long whip.
Covers most of Sealand ( island in Denmark ) from my QTH in 
Herlev.

Happy Rovering

Bent  OZ4GE

_________________________
Bent Boehlers

Herlev, Denmark

e-mail: bb@olivetti.dk
URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

110" STW 12 seats, V8, 1983
 86" softtop, 2 litre, 1955

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBF0CE.65502120

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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