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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 8:46:05 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: GM diesel conversion...OOO that smarts!

Y'know Nate, some days around here it feels like I already had one of 
those things shoved up my...
Taking it one day at a time...

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 08:46:06 -500
Subject: '65 IIA Comments Invited

L-Rites,
I have a few Land-Rover questions.  I have a friend who is 
considering the sale of his '65 109 IIA.  It has been swapped
around a bit, and has a '65 Mercedes 190 2 litre non turbo engine.
The rest of the drivetrain is original with no overdrive.  He claims
the first gear is "too fast" so it bogs down on hills.  The rear cross 
member will nead replacing soon.  The brakes were totally rebuilt
5 years ago and silicone fluid reinstalled.

Was the IIA series manufactured in '65, or would this really be a II.
Is replacement of the rear cross member by itself recommended 
or generally a stopgap.  Does this part often rot leaving the rest of 
the frame sound?  This 109 has 16 inch wheels and a 5.xx(!?!) final
drive ratio.  What recommends have you for making first gear more 
useful?  He has the pickup metal cab top.  Are softtop hoops 
available to fit this truck.  Do they just plug in?  He mentioned the 
side window lower slide channels are needing replacement.  Is this 
part available?  The aluminum panel sides have some bondo in them,
a couple of spots.  I am assuming this is par for the vehicle of this 
type/age?  He mentioned that these side panels could be replaced.
Are these screwed, riveted, or welded on?  The owner rebuilt the
truck 5 years ago.  Except for the need to keep up the revs in first
on hills, it drives OK and all systems work.  Given what this vehicle
needs, is a few thousand $US out of line?  I expect to look at this
vehicle again within the next few weeks.  All comments appreciated.   
Mark  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:07:41 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Insurance

At 22:52 96-12-16 -0600, Keith was asking:
-
>What kind of insurance premium can one look forward to owning an older 
>model, say Series IIa, Land Rover,  if you want to be covered for driving 
-it on the highway/ around town?

The premium depends on multiple factors: Where you live, what will be the
use of the vehicle, your personal driving record, your age and marital
status, the number of teenage kids that you have that will be driving the
beast, etc... It also varies on the state/province legislation. When I lived
in Ontario, it costed me 900$ Cdn a year for the insurance + 20$ for the
driver's license + 66$ for the license plates for a 1963 109. My private
insurance company covered material damage and "body" damage. In Quebec,
where I live now, the provincial goverment, realaizing how much profits were
the insurance companies making, took in charge the "body" insurance leaving
the material insurance to the company. Results: Same vehicle, same driver,
same risks, but: 200$ insurance, 45$ driver's license, and 225$ for the
plates. Nearly half price!! God I love that system!!

In general, I find it cheaper to insure my Land Rover than a japanese
vehicle taht has the same value. 

At the same time, ask if your insurance policy provides that in case of a
total-wreck, you can buy the wreck for 50$. It is interesting for the Landie
owner since the engine, gearbox, and other gizmos and surely worth 50$.

>What kind of insurance premium can one look forward to owning an older 
-Are insurance companies even very knowledgeable about these older 
>vehicles?

Some of them do, some of them don't. But they are all willing to insure you
for a price that will suit them. If they don't have the vehicle in their
list, they will make one up. For instance, when I lived in Ontario, I had a
1963 Range Rover. Actually, it was the first prototype, well masked under a
beat-up 109 Pick-up body...

99% of the time, they will ask you for a professionnal estimate of the car
on which they will rely on when they have to pay in case you wreck your
truck. Say you have a pro-estimate value of 5,000$ for the Landie. If you
totall-it, they will give you 5,000$ (less deductible). Not more, not less.
It is interesting if you were about to change your frame next weekend but
not quite as interesting if you just did last week-end.

The insurance companies set the preniums by evaluating risks. One of the
factors is the cost of fixing/scrapping a vehicle. It is easy to do with a
new car (they know the price of an identical new vehicle and the estimated
cost of repairs if not totalled) but they have no idea about a 30 year-old
truck. That is why they are asking for a professional evaluation. 

Shop around, but start with your present insurance company. Don't forget
that if they don't have it listed in Land Rover, try Rover, Range Rover, or
British Leyland. They will have it somewhere in their books...

Hope this helps, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 9:06:38 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: 3.8 Conversion 

Let me get this straight. You're thinking of pulling out the Rover engine 
and transmission that has lasted 30 years and replacing the driveline 
with BUICK and GM parts? A word of advice: keep your AAA membership up to 
date.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 10:23:48 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Truck cap/top

Mike Johnson wrote:
> The wife asked me what I wanted for X-mas a few daze ago,  She refued my
> first request, and told me to try again.  So I told her I wanted a truck
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> 74 SIII 88 (Chester)
> 73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)
> http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm (updated 9Dec96)

Hi Mike,
Just to keep you up to date,I should be going to see the top Wed. or
Thurs.
I'll let you know what happens.
Regards,
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:13:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

On Mon, 16 Dec 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

> _______________________________________________________________________
> Eric Zipkin  Bedford, NY  USA  *  ericz@cloud9.net  * www.cloud9.net/~ericz
> SIII 109" V8 Hardtop * SII 109" SW (since new) * '63 Triumph Spitfire
> SIIA 88" (project car)  *  '67 Mini-Moke * '94 Car Trailer: "NOT FOR HIRE"
						^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
								||||||||||
						Admirable, not letting the
					        Hire's root-beer company
						borrow the trailer.  Makes
						it more available for us.

> Huh? Did someone say something about towing....?

	Possibly...  A lift down to Carlisle next spring for the import 
	car show would be nice.  I understand you pick up, and I can assure
	you, Ottawa is on the way to southern Pennsylvannia from New
	York City.  Well, maybe a mile or six out of your way.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:22:22 -0500
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: '65 IIA Comments Invited

At 08:46 96-12-17 -500, you wrote:

>Was the IIA series manufactured in '65, or would this really be a II.

It's a IIA. The II was manufactured  circa 59-61

>Is replacement of the rear cross member by itself recommended 
>or generally a stopgap. 

It can be done, and is not a major pain. Just need to align the rear body
correctly.

 Does this part often rot leaving the rest of 
>the frame sound?  

Yes, Lots of crud and mud that piles up in there. Check the outriggers,
front horns and bulkhead doorposts.

This 109 has 16 inch wheels and a 5.xx(!?!) final
>drive ratio. 

Huh... How can you get a 5.xx final drive ratio? Only diffs that I know of
that fit have a 4.7 (original diff) or 3.5 (range Rover) ratio? Are the
diffs original?

 What recommends have you for making first gear more 
>useful? 

I'll leave this one to others... Usually the first gear is strong enough to
pull you out of any concrete. You should be able to start in 2nd.

 He has the pickup metal cab top.  Are softtop hoops 
>available to fit this truck. 

Yes.

 Do they just plug in?  

Yes. You have to fit a "kit" to the cab itself, though.

He mentioned the 
>side window lower slide channels are needing replacement.  Is this 
>part available?  

Yes. Like 99% of the other parts.

The aluminum panel sides have some bondo in them,
>a couple of spots.  I am assuming this is par for the vehicle of this 
>type/age? 

Possible. Depends if it is just finishing bondo or to fill in major holes. 

 He mentioned that these side panels could be replaced.
>Are these screwed, riveted, or welded on?  
Welded and riveted. When you repalce them, just pop-rivet the whole thing.

The owner rebuilt the
>truck 5 years ago.  Except for the need to keep up the revs in first
>on hills, it drives OK and all systems work.  Given what this vehicle
>needs, is a few thousand $US out of line? 

Don't know... I live in the Great White North, so difficult to compare.
Don't know a thing about that engine, also. Generally, I like to keep away
from custom modifications. It could be a pain to service. God knows what's
in that engine bay. Is it possible to retrofit the original engine?

Hope this helps, 

Salutations, 
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 9:30:03 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: '65 IIA Comments Invited

If this is a 109 regular, then the replacement of the rear X-member 
shouldn't be too much hassle, as the rear tub comes off fairly easily. 
This process should reveal additional rust problems, if there are any. 
Subtract $500. I would subtract at least $500 for the Merc lump. Parts 
for these babies are quite dear. A 2L ? I would hazard a guess that the 
bogging is a result of underpower and not gearing, if the gearing is 
stock. An ok passenger car engine, but not much help for a much heavier 
truck.
Five years is a long time for both brakes and hub seals. I'd pull the 
front drums and eyeball the sitch. Brake overhaul will run a couple of 
hundred bones.
Bondo on aluminum? This is really wussy repair work as aluminum panels 
are easy to pound out straight. It means there is a horrendous dang in 
the panel. Yes, you can get parts for it. Subtract a couple of hundred 
for repair. The slide channel is a fairly straightforward, but tedious 
job because of the many rusted out screws that hold the channel in place. 
Parts and labor for this job will be another hundred or so.
Sounds like his idea of "rebuilding" is simply making sure nothing is 
falling off. A truly rebuilt Rover will look pretty sweet after such a 
short time.
Are you getting an idea of the big picture? No matter what the initial 
cost, plan on spending at least twice to three times that on restoration 
and refurbishing.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:33:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Insurance

On Mon, 16 Dec 1996, Keith W. Cooper wrote:

> What kind of insurance premium can one look forward to owning an older 
> model, say Series IIa, Land Rover,  if you want to be covered for driving 
> it on the highway/ around town?

	Depends where you are.  C$360/yr for the green beastie, in the 
	middle of a city, for daily driving. (1964 109 sw)

> Are insurance companies even very knowledgeable about these older 
> vehicles?

	Don't have a clue up here.  Just another old vehicle, at least
	when they don't try and classify it as something else.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 08:05:37 -0700
From: John Harrigan <jfharrig@fedex.com>
Subject: BFG 235/85s

I bought a used Defender 90 that came with 265/75 Goodyear GSA tires.
I'm going to replace them with BFG mud-terrains and have a few
questions.

1)  Has anyone tried the 235/85 size on a defender?  It seems that
Defenders come with skinnier tires in other countries (or even the 110
in the US).  Does anyone know why the 90s come with 265s in the US?

2)  The 235s are rated with an E load range.  From the spec sheet this
means you get the same max load as the 265 but you have to run 80 psi
instead of 65.  Does anyone have any recommendations on what a normal
running pressure should be?  What about a minimum pressure for loose
conditions?

3)  How do mud terrains in general handle wet pavement?  Snowpacked
pavement?

4)  Any reasons why I should forget the the 235s and stick with the
stock 265s?

Thanks,
John Harrigan
jfharrig@fedex.com

------------------------------

From: "Brian J Hanson"<Brian_J_Hanson/OIIS/EKC@knotes.kodak.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 10:16:47 -0400
Subject: Disco question

I've got a fairly simple question about my '95 Disco.  I'm looking to
install an amplifier for my stereo(I know it's not as exciting as the
Series rebuilds you guys are doing, but...) and I noticed that in the cargo
area on the left side the interior panel sticks out quite a bit further
than on the right side(looking at the vehicle from behind).  Does anyone
know what is behind there?  I know the other side(right) has the fuel
filler hose, but I'm not sure what's on this side and if it's empty that
would be the perfect spot for me.  I'm asking this because I haven't had
the time to take off the jump seat and get that panel off yet, not because
I'm too lazy to do so.
Thanks,
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:23:56 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Disco question

Brian;

Do you have a read air conditioning unit in that rear left hump?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 15:51:39 +0000 (GMT)
From: Stuart Moore <eeymsmo@helpdesk.ntu.ac.uk>
Subject: Some questions

Hi all,
	I've just aquired a 1975 SIII SWB diesel and I've got a few
questions. The engine appears to be running o.k. It was well lubricated
and clean when I got it. There appears to be no knocking or ominous
rumblings. The only smoke is when the accelerator is pumped or it's being
really pushed. The problem is this, I can only get to ~55 mph(according to
the speedo) and that's realy pushing the engine. I don't mind this speed
too much it's more the fact that to reach this speed I have to really push
the engine. I've adjusted and cleaned the valves in case this helped, all
it did was make the engine 'smoother' when it was being pushed.
	The last owner fitted it with 7.5x16 (IIRC)tyre, could this have
anything to do with it ie; wrong gearing or speedometer calibration.
	Any suggestions would be gratefully recieved. Thanks in advance.

	Bye!!!!!!!!!                                  
	Stuart      
	  		Finger for various keys and codes     

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@crd.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 10:59:32 -0400
Subject: Some questions

>The problem is this, I can only get to ~55 mph(according to the speedo)
and that's realy pushing the engine. I don't mind this speed too much it's
more the fact >that to reach this speed I have to really push the engine.
I've adjusted and cleaned the valves in case this helped, all it did was
make the engine 'smoother' when >it was being pushed.

Sounds like most of the Diesels I've seen.

 >The last owner fitted it with 7.5x16 (IIRC)tyre, could this have
>anything to do with it ie; wrong gearing or speedometer calibration.
 >Any suggestions would be gratefully recieved. Thanks in advance.

 Stuart, from what I see above I'd be tempted to think that your
 speedometer is calibrated for 15 inch tyres.

 Can you get the numbers off your speedometer? If you look to the bottom
 you'll see a number that'll be 1xxx/01 or the like - if you can get that
 we might be able to determine if it's speedo calibration.

 If it's what I think it is, then you were about 5-10MPH off and actually
 doing 65 - no small wonder it was revving!

                                         ajr

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:09:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Some questions

In a message dated 96-12-17 10:59:35 EST, you write:

<< I've just aquired a 1975 SIII SWB diesel>>

Congrats!

<< and I've got a few
 questions. The engine appears to be running o.k. It was well lubricated
 and clean when I got it. There appears to be no knocking or ominous
 rumblings. The only smoke is when the accelerator is pumped or it's being
 really pushed. 

Closely watch how much oil you burn (quarts per 500 miles) this may indicate
problems (valves, rings) also try to judge where else oil might be leaking
from (valve cover and around oil sump)

<<The problem is this, I can only get to ~55 mph(according to
 the speedo) and that's realy pushing the engine. I don't mind this speed
 too much it's more the fact that to reach this speed I have to really push
 the engine. I've adjusted and cleaned the valves in case this helped, all
 it did was make the engine 'smoother' when it was being pushed.>>

Have someone follow you and pace your speed.  Rover speedos are notoriously
inaccurate over 50 (you may be in the mid sixties!).

 <<	The last owner fitted it with 7.5x16 (IIRC)tyre, could this have
  anything to do with it ie; wrong gearing or speedometer calibration. >>

In part, I also think the speedos loose some accuracy over time due to the
mechanism in the speedo head.

Good Luck!
Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Brian J Hanson"<Brian_J_Hanson/OIIS/EKC@knotes.kodak.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:13:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Disco question
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Ah yes.. I do have rear air conditioning... that's what's behind there
then?  (I've only had the Disco for a little over a week so I haven't had
the chance to poke around it too much yet)

                                                                  
 (Embedded                                                        
 image moved   hermans @ krts.com                                 
 to file:      12/17/96 10:23 AM                                  
 PIC27245.PCX)                                                    
                                                                  

Please respond to Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC)
Subject:  Re: Disco question

Brian;

Do you have a read air conditioning unit in that rear left hump?

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------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:14:24 -0500
Subject: US National Land Rover Rally

                             SOLIHULL SOCIETY
              A Land Rover Club Serving Colorado and Vicinity
                             December 17, 1996

  RE: National Land Rover Rally

  The 1997 National Land Rover Rally will be held during the week of 13
  through 17 August, 1997 in the Red River area of northern New Mexico, a
  scenic mountainous area about 30 miles north of Taos.

  This has been approved by the Solihull Society at it's last meeting.
  Additional details will be made available as soon as possible.  If you
  have any questions, please contact me by E-mail or write to:

        John Wood
        Rally Coordinator
        The Solihull Society
        PO Box 916
        Monument CO 80132

  Best Regards,

  Paul Donohue
  donohuepe@aol.com
  Secretary, Solihull Society

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:17:05 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Some diesel answers (was:Some questions)

Stuart: My '64 109 2.25 diesel has a confirmed top speed on the flat and 
level of 62.5mph. (16 inch tires, no overdrive, pedal to the floor) The 
speedo indicates nearly 70 at that time, to give you a sense of typical 
calibration errors. That is the maximum engine rpms the governor will allow. 
It takes getting used to the sound and "feel", but the Land Rover diesel 
engine really is designed to reliably go that fast. It has very little spare 
power at that speed, and will slow-down at the slightest grade, but can be 
down-shifted and maintain nearly 50 in 3rd, or just allowed to slow-down to 
about 30 in 4th where peak-torque occurs. Time a flying mile to verify the 
speedo, and perhaps have a shop check the governor setting if it is too 
slow. If it truely only goes 55, it has a problem. It sounds like a good, or 
at least normal, running vehicle that might need some "getting used to" and 
a typical speedo error.
Best of luck,
JohnO
'64 109 5-door diesel "Safari-SoGoodi", w/a gazillion miles on both original 
parts.

(snip)I've just aquired a 1975 SIII SWB diesel and I've got a few
>questions. The engine appears to be running o.k. It was well lubricated
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>	Stuart      
>	  		Finger for various keys and codes     

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:43:19 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Jim Allen wrote

> > I would like to clearify that the 3.8 engine I am looking at
> >engineering into my early 2A is a GM engine out of a Bonniville.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Good Luck!
> Jim Allen

The guy is John Deneke, e-mail me for his number.
He had D+D build him 3 alloy v8's - 215, 4.3 and 5.0 strokers.
He's trying to sell them all now, as he put in a sbc and a port
injection (Accel? Edelbrock? can't remember).  He did put in a 350 AT so
he can use his 109.   I think he plopped A LOT of money in it, tho',
but for him the AT is a necessity.
again, the strokers are FS at lower price than it would cost to build
them, and he *does* need the money.
rgds
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 08:46:37 -0800
From: garnold@clvm.clarkson.edu (Guy Arnold)
Subject: Roofrack For Sale

I have a roof rack that is gutter mounted and was originally sold by
Land-rover dealers here in the states. It is in excellent shape and covers
about 3/4 of my 1973 Series III roof. It is made from tube steel and is
silver in color. I don't use it and when it is attached I can't get in my
garage. The selling price is $ 200.00 US and it can be shipped by UPS.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 18:13:40 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Some diesel answers (was:Some questions)

According to my memory, the 2,25 diesel should give 72 kilometers per
hours at 4250 r.p.m. in third gear (standard 4 gear box)

In other words, set the max revs on the distributer pump to 4250 rpm
with a stroboscaope, then test on flat road, wo wind. If you get 72 kph
(abot 45 mph)in third, then the car is spec. If you don't then you have
too much friction or loss somewhere (try high ratio instead?!!!)

I think thrd gear speci is chose to ensure that vehicvle is in potitive
drive and at a lower speed to minimise tolerance factor for speedometer.

Much higher revs can be acheived by adjusting the dist. pump, but this
is NOT recommended (I have tried this by accident when max revs screw
fell out, fortunatly dsip pump low pressure gasket blew before high
pressure mechanism  got chewed up bu too high revs.
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:15:55 +0000
Subject: subject lines

A polite request. When replying to messages please change the subject 
line from "Land Rover Owner digest..." to what the subject really is.
I get several hundred e-mails a day and I delete one's that have a 
subject I'm not interested in. There's no way to tell what it is if 
the subject line reads as above.
Thanks.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:20:06 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: '65 IIA Comments Invited

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> He claims
> the first gear is "too fast" so it bogs down on hills. 

This is surprising; I suspect the problem lies elsewhere (forward of 
the gearbox :) ).

> Was the IIA series manufactured in '65

Yes.

> Is replacement of the rear cross member by itself recommended
> or generally a stopgap.  Does this part often rot leaving the rest of
> the frame sound?  

That all depends; if you're in the NE/Great Lakes, probably the rest of the
frame is in poor condition.  Check it thoroughly.

> What recommends have you for making first gear more
> useful?  He has the pickup metal cab top.  Are softtop hoops
> available to fit this truck.  Do they just plug in? 

The canvas top is available and a relatively straight attachment (I understand
- I have a 5 door and have never messed with this myself).

> He mentioned the
> side window lower slide channels are needing replacement.  Is this
> part available?  

Getting either genuine or aftermarket channels is no problem.  However,
the rotted channels may well indicate that the entire frame of the door is
on the edge of needing replacement.  Take a close look at the lower portion
of the door frame.  Does the bottom of the lower member look like swiss cheese
or can you poke a small screwdriver through it.  While you're poking 
around check the doorposts at the base of the bulkhead too.

> He mentioned that these side panels could be replaced.
> Are these screwed, riveted, or welded on?  

By side panels I assume you mean the rear box.  The replacement can be done
with rivets alone, but the original assembly has some spot welds too.  If you're
talking about the front/wing panels they're just a bolt on/off piece.

> Given what this vehicle
> needs, is a few thousand $US out of line?  I expect to look at this
> vehicle again within the next few weeks.  All comments appreciated.
> Mark

Ignoring the engine a few thousand (3K?) seems reasonable IF the frame/bulkhead are
in good shape otherwise a few hundred.  I would also worry about what sort
of electrical mess exists in association with the engine swap.
My personal tastes would run to junking the existing engine and replacing it 
with a 2.25.  

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 13:03:40 -0500
Subject: Re: more.Projection responses..

Jan: The Projection kit I used was the analog version. The Holley Closed Loop
O2 sensor kit #534-27 was designed to be used with all the analog versions.
The other part numbers I mentioned yesterday are: #520-1/BG Water Adaptor.
The standard heater hose from the heater to the back of the manifold was
retained. A length of non-molded hose was run from one of the connections on
the adaptor to the other heater core connection. The original steel tube
under the old mainfold was mounted  on the topside of the new manifold.
Another length of hose was looped from this to a second connection on the
adaptor.
 The Edelbrock manifold does not have a thermostat bypass on it like the
"newer" stock manifolds, so either an older Rover thermostat housing or a
Buick housing with the bypass hose connection must be used. The problem with
the Buick part is that it points in the wrong direction. I wanted to retain
the stock upper rad hose, so the blank "tit" on the stock thermostat housing
was drilled and tapped and a short length of threaded pipe was used to do the
same thing. If I had planned better I would have found a used Rover part. I
was quoted $70+ for a new genuine thermostat housing (NAPA Buick part, cast
iron: under $10), hence the improvisation. 
The alternator was: "Reliance Remanufacture",  #7137. I bought it from the
local parts store, and is a generic "Delco GM". works great.
The stock throttle cable was reworked so that the end of the cable housing is
kept fixed and attached to the mounting bracket that comes witht he Holey
kit. A clevis from the kit was put on the end of the threaded rod which is
located at the end of the stock cable. If you look at the cable you'll see
what I am talking about. The clevis is then attached to the TBI. On the stock
cable the end of the cable is fixed and the cable housing moves the throttle
linkage, whereas with the new setup the housing is fixed, and the inner cable
now moves to accuate the throttle plate.
I highly recommend the following book: "Holley Carburettors, Manifolds and
Fuel Injection, Revised 4th Ed." by Urich and Fisher, HP Books. I found it at
Barnes and Noble. I also can copy the installation manual if you need it.
 Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 13:43:09 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Oil Filter for D90

Hello,
         Sorry to ask this again, but could anyone tell me the number for
the D90 long oil filter?  I had it written down from the last time I asked
but somebody cleaned up around here and I can't find it.  Thanks in
advance.

Steve Paustian
D90 SW

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 15:50:42 -0500
Subject: Rollcage for 88 IIa

>Hi, I'm thinking of making a roll cage for my 88, what I need to know is
>if anybody has drawings or specs. on making it? 

Kyle.

Try to get hold of a copy of the Association of Rover Clubs (ARC) Yearbook.
It contains all you will ever need to know on the design of rollcages. Untill
the rules all change again that is.

Mike Rogers
( Lightweight / Range Rover Hybrid ) Complete with ARC Logbooked Rollcage.

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 15:50:41 -0500
Subject: Editor/wife?

On Mon, 16 Dec 1996, Dave White wrote:
> Ersatz Soubriquet is neither the editor, the secretary or my wife.
> I think that about clears it up for the moment :-)

Dixon Kenner Then wrote
	My head spins, but that is normal...  or will later being the 
	night of the monthly social gathering of the faithful.

Dont let it get to you, they are all mad in Yorkshire.

Mike Rogers
( Lightweight Range Rover Hybrid )

------------------------------

From: Per Thrane <perth@cybernet.dk>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:20:32 +-100

help

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:18:49 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.8 Conversion 

Bill Adams writes:
> Let me get this straight. You're thinking of pulling out the Rover engine 
>  and transmission that has lasted 30 years and replacing the driveline 
>  with BUICK and GM parts? A word of advice: keep your AAA membership up to 
>  date.

It is comforting to see that some things don't change: Bill's opinion.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:24:48 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Some questions

Don't worry, be happy... diesels have a rev limiter that keeps them from 
throwing con rods all over the M5.
These things have two throttle positions: idling and floored.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:29:45 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Sets of LROI from 1987 to present

Just been told of a few almost complete sets at reasonable prices to be
offered in the FEBRUARY issue of LROI.  Digest gets it first.  Shipping will
be expensive so surface will be worth the wait.  Email applications only for
further info.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:29:48 -0500
Subject: Carlise Show: Worthwhile?

Dixon is looking for a ride:
> A lift down to Carlisle next spring for the import 
>  	car show would be nice

Seriously, does the Carlise import/kit car swap meet have much for a series
LR enthusist? Are there likely to be any parts or literature not generally*
available?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: FoPAA@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:39:39 -0500
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:15:22 GMT
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>

James Wolf writes 
 anyone remember the first LR magazine, answer Overlander

 Not quite true, Brian Hartley, at the time, editor of the Pennine Land
Rover Clubs magazine, Bottom Box and David Bowyer ( series 1 club ) founded
Overlandr as an Off Road magazine, not exclusively Rover orientated, they
did not see the potential for a Rover only mag.
 They subsequently sold the magazine to LInk House publications and it
became Off Road and Four Wheel Driver. Dubsequently Land Rover Owner was
launched, eventually changing the name to LRO International and also selling
out to a big publishing company. Link house then followed by launching a
sister publication to Off Road, Land Rover World.
 In the early eighties Bottom Box was a sought after publication since there
was not a UK based magazine, There were several US based mags shipped to the UK.
 I succeeeded Btrian as Editor of Bottom Box and it went downhill from there.

Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:15:19 GMT
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>

Adrian writes

I have a set of four wheels for a Range Rover, which a friend of mine
left in my stable 5 years ago, eventually telling me to keep them. They
are in need of a sandblast and repaint job, but are ok - they seem to be
for wider tires, which would suit me fine for my winter set - the
question is - can I use these on a series III, and with what tyre?

 To use RR wheels on a series LR it is necessary to modify the centre
slightly, the driving flange on the LR interferes with the inside of the
wheel, it is necessary to do some discrete shaping with a ball pien hammer,
or alternatively measure the outside dia of the drive flange, add a little
clearance and then press a bar of this dia into the center of  the wheel for
about an inch ( sorry for denmark 25 mm )

In order to use series wheels on a RR it is necessary to reduce the diameter
of the drive flange slightly on the RR hub, which contradicts the above, but
the rr flange fits in spaces in the rr  wheel 

 Regards  bill Leacock  Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:25:52 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: Sets of LROI from 1987 to present

Do tell, I am definately interested in a set as long as I can convince Jane
that it is a necessary reference tool for the vehicles ;^)
Paul
>Just been told of a few almost complete sets at reasonable prices to be
>offered in the FEBRUARY issue of LROI.  Digest gets it first.  Shipping will
>be expensive so surface will be worth the wait.  Email applications only for
>further info.

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, rear Koenig
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak)
'92 fly-yellow Ducati 750SS     yesss!!(perfect winter commuter) ;^) I love
California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:24:21 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: BFG 235/85s

John asked;

>1)  Has anyone tried the 235/85 size on a defender?  It seems that
>Defenders come with skinnier tires in other countries (or even the 110
>in the US).  Does anyone know why the 90s come with 265s in the US?

We've have used 235s on training fleet Land Rover 110s and they work OK. In
part, the reason for the wider meats on the D90 is the "look" but there's a
practical aspect also. Spreading the weight over a wider footprint has
advantages in many types of terrain, such as in rocks or sand, some types
of snow and some types of mud. In general, a wider tire (within limits!!)
will perform better in a wider variety of conditions than a narrow one.

>2)  The 235s are rated with an E load range.  From the spec sheet this
>means you get the same max load as the 265 but you have to run 80 psi
>instead of 65.  Does anyone have any recommendations on what a normal
>running pressure should be?  What about a minimum pressure for loose
>conditions?

The tire manufacture will usually quote you an "official" minumum however
8-15 pounds is an often used D90 figure (w/265s) in conditions where a
maximum footprint is needed. The Rover beadlocks are better than average.
With a minimum load, we run D90s at about 22psi on the highway and they do
fine. If you are a 90mph type of guy, you might want more air. You have to
remember that the 265s were designed for a pickup and to carry more weight
than the D90 will ever handle, so max pressure is not necessary. The
narrower tire will need more air to handle the same load, however, so ride
quality should be better with the wider meat at a lower pressure..

>3)  How do mud terrains in general handle wet pavement?  Snowpacked
>pavement?

The Mud Terrains are "OK" on the wet, barely tolerable on road type snow
and a bit scary on sheet ice. They're out of their element in these
conditions. They work well in deep snow, rocks, dry highway, and mud
(naturally).
>4)  Any reasons why I should forget the the 235s and stick with the
>stock 265s?
>running pressure should be?  What about a minimum pressure for loose
>conditions?
Hobson's choice. The 235 Mud Terrains are going to be as much a bear on ice
as the 265s. Overall, I prefer the 265s because they will deliver more
traction (more footprint) than the 235. In some types of mud (i.e. 8 inches
deep with a bottom) the narrow tire might prove a bit better because it
will dig and grip rather than float and spin, though my personal experience
is that the differnce is negligable. Tread design counts for more. Part of
tire selection is "the look". If you like the tall, skinny, traditional
look, go for it. Some guys have installed 7.50-16 Michelin XCLs (a similar
size to the 235/85-16
         Finally, if I lived in the frozen North, I might consider a set of
winter only tires for the highway, such as the Bridgestone Blizzak or a
Vredstien (is that how it's spelled?).

Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: dnalder@deloitte.co.nz
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 16:33:41 NZT
Subject: Long Term Storage of 110

     
     Hi all
     
     I need some advice/ideas on what to do with my LR.  I live in 
     Wellington, New Zealand and have a 1985 110 V8 which I have had for 
     about 4 years.  My dilemma is that my partner and I are off to live 
     and work in Budapest for two to three years or so.   Now, as you tend 
     to do, I have become quite attached to my Landy and am loath to sell 
     it.  I have therefore decided to put it into long term storage.
     
     My question is:  apart from giving it a good going over with CRC or 
     Inox (oil/kerosene mixture), putting it on blocks and disconnecting 
     the battery, what else do I need to do?
     
     The LR will be stored inside with a professional storage firm and will 
     probably not be started/driven during the two to three years.
     
     I was initially going to sell it, but a series of nightmares and 
     waking up in a cold sweat convinced me that I was not yet ready for 
     such a traumatic seperation :-)
     
     Cheers
     
     David Nalder
     
     PS I have bought both LROI and LRW for a couple of years (less for 
     LRW, preferred LROI) but stopped buying them lately as part of my 
     attempt to go 'cold turkey'!  It didn't work as I failed to 
     unsubscribe from the list and so still got my daily 'fix'.
     
     ...oh well....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 22:00:45 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Christmas help NOT Land Rover

Hi All,
 There is a guy I know who is trying to find a MGB hard top for a Xmas
gift.  I know this is not normally the way to find one but the british
cars & their owners seem to each other.  So if you know of a top in the 
Boston area or can offer advise to him please contact him directly at
steve@catapult.com or let me know by email.

thanks 

Regards,
 Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: Richard Crider please read
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 21:40:27 -0500

Hi there,

Your photos are in the post back to you.  If you send me your email address, I will send you the *.bmp files.

Thanks a lot, stay in touch,

Regards 
Rod Steele

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Gearbox pic
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 04:23:29 +0000

Jeff Berg wrote "caught in the act" or words to that effect. 
Glad that you like the photos Jeff. Maybe next year we can catch you flying
over the hump.(no pun intended).
I thought that the Jan. issue of LRW was going to have an article about the
Mid-Atlantic rally? Maybe it was LROI, which hasn't arrived yet.
Based on what was said about B.J. Acoustics stuff, I stand corrected. It
appears that the J.C.Whitney insulation/sound deadening material is better.
That is what I'll be purchasing, unless there are some really bad reports on
it.I have also been looking at the exhaust wrap to help keep the heat away
from the interior of the vehicle. Anyone tried that or a similar product?

Keep On (Land-Rover) Truckin'
Jim Wolf sIIa 109 sw Vicky
Portsmouth, VA USA

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:25:54 -0500
Subject: Re: BFG 235/85s (It's the GVW)

John inquired:
>1)  Has anyone tried the 235/85 size on a defender?  It seems that
>Defenders come with skinnier tires in other countries (or even the 110
>in the US).  Does anyone know why the 90s come with 265s in the US?

I believe LR has been taking advantage of a breakpoint around 6500 lbs Gross
Vehicle Weight (whatever a nice round number is just under the GVW on the
D90s sticker would probably be the breakpoint) for safety or possibly
emission regulations. The GVW for U.S. D90s is signficantly higher than that
specified elsewhere. Anyway, by declaring the GVW to be above the breakpoint,
they have avoided the necessity of meeting certain standards. To declare the
higher GVW, the tires provided must have a load rating exceeding the rated
axle loads. Hence, the necessity to use the 265 tires. They also have the
right "look" for the U.S. which generally prefers tires significantly larger
than are actually needed from a load standpoint.

BTW, the GVW for a UK D90 is 2400kg (5290 lb) with standard suspension, and
2550kg (5620lb) with high load suspension.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 08:45:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Oil consumption question

1. How much Oil does the 2.3 diesel consume given it does not leak?

2. Was the engine designed to burn some oil while working?

Geoffrey

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Long Term Storage of 110
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 08:44:00 PST

Read those old issues of LROI, about a year ago they did an article on 
preparing a vehicle for storage. Made it sound easier to have a friend look 
after it and drive it occasionally.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------

     Hi all

     I need some advice/ideas on what to do with my LR.  I live in
     Wellington, New Zealand and have a 1985 110 V8 which I have had for
     about 4 years.  My dilemma is that my partner and I are off to live
     and work in Budapest for two to three years or so.   Now, as you tend
     to do, I have become quite attached to my Landy and am loath to sell
     it.  I have therefore decided to put it into long term storage.

     My question is:  apart from giving it a good going over with CRC or
     Inox (oil/kerosene mixture), putting it on blocks and disconnecting
     the battery, what else do I need to do?

     The LR will be stored inside with a professional storage firm and will
     probably not be started/driven during the two to three years.

     I was initially going to sell it, but a series of nightmares and
     waking up in a cold sweat convinced me that I was not yet ready for
     such a traumatic separation :-)

     Cheers

     David Nalder

     PS I have bought both LROI and LRW for a couple of years (less for
     LRW, preferred LROI) but stopped buying them lately as part of my
     attempt to go 'cold turkey'!  It didn't work as I failed to
     unsubscribe from the list and so still got my daily 'fix'.

     ...oh well....

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: 5speed g'box in a SIII
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 10:21:51 +0100 (MET)

Hello everybody,
a friend who has a SIII 109 asked my to get some wisdom from
the real LR gurus. He would be able to get a LT77 5 speed box
cheaply and thinks about putting it into his 109.

Will the LT77 make a straight fit instead of the SIII g'box
or are there modifications needed?
Can the old SIII transfer box still be used with the LT77 gearbox 
or is a LT230 t'box and a change to permanent 4WD necessary?

Hope I don't get flamed by the origionalists ;-)

Thanks in advance,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 11:05:53 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Oil consumption question

1. How much Oil does the 2.3 diesel consume given it does not leak?
>2. Was the engine designed to burn some oil while working?

How much oil is it getting through? As a personal rule of thumb,I
reckon up to a pint a thousand miles is acceptable.What grade of
oil do you use?

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

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  -B

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