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From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 13:15:25 GMT Subject: Re: The stone of Scone Hi, Anybody else notice that the large lump of rock the English stole from the Scots went home in a 110 !Rgds Niel Views expressed are personal and not those of the University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 08:30:20 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Aerials on landrovers
The only problem with antennas on the front wings is static. I made the
mistake of mounting the shortwave antenna on Baby's right front wing. I
should have realized that it was right over the distributor! Next antenna
goes on the rear! Until then, I'll just need to stop the car to listen to
the BBC.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Ned Heite
<DARWIN>< Curmudgeon and contract archaeologist
" " Camden, Delaware 19934 USA
http://www.dmv.com/~iceland
------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
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]From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: Re: The stone of Scone Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 13:39:00 PST A sealed metal box, contents unknown, came up here in the back of n army 110; I suspect that the stone was actually transported anonymously so as to avoid any chance of it being interfered with. (there was a bomb threat after all). I also suspect that the lump of sandstone that all the fuss is about is NOT the actual ancient Scottish coronation stone, would you use something as common as sandstone for something as special as a coronation? The ancient chronicles refer to' a black shiny stone like marble or possibly a meteorite', not a lump of sandstone. It was still a classy way for whatever was in the box to travel! Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ---------- From: Niel J. P. Fagan Subject: Re: The stone of Scone Date: 21 November 1996 13:15 Hi, Anybody else notice that the large lump of rock the English stole from the Scots went home in a 110 !Rgds Niel Views expressed are personal and not those of the University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 08:45:15 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: TriumphTrophy? >Go to: >http://www.triumph.co.uk/showroom/96models.htm >Click on "trophy". >PS: bring a towel to clean off your computer screen. TNN (Towel Not Necessary) for those of us who are "frame challenged" Later Dave b. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: The stone of Scone Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 13:49:19 GMT > Anybody else notice that the large lump of rock the English stole > from the Scots went home in a 110 !Rgds Niel And one from the Coldstream Guards, at that! The "ex-Gurkha" FFR was also with the Coldstream Guards for 2/3 years! :-) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 08:49:42 -0500 Subject: Ready Strip trip I am thinking of making a run up to the Ready-strip outfit in Allentown PA. in a few days. Ready-strip has a process that removes all paint and rust inside and out. I have seen their work, it's amazing. I was wondering if there are any other Roverists in the Balto-Wash area who might be interested in taking some stuff up there with me. They will do whole chassis or just little parts. The prices I was quoted seemed quite reasonable I.E. $15 for wheels 16' and under, $100 for gas tanks and $800 for a whole tr6. This seems the way to go if you really want the galvanizing to stick to that old chassis. Rgds Quintin Aspin now where IS that bulkhead.............. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 08:54:08 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re: misc. axle Q's - stageI/early RR/Series?? >is there a special 2 1/16 deep socket for the spindle nuts. if you >don't have one, how do you take them off?? if you have one, could i >borrow it? Rovers North sells one, I believe you turn it by sticking a bar through both sides. Or you can buy a 3/4" drive socket bar and a truck type hubnut wrench. These are available at any decent auto parts store. Or you can be cheap like me and use a *large* pair of channel locks. I've done it a bunch o times and it always works, with a minimum of damage to the nut. Later Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 96 8:56:22 EST Subject: Re: Aerials on landrovers ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Aerials on landrovers Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 14:08:31 GMT We seem to have some kinf of consensus in a way that FWHs don't give us! a.) I can mount an aerial pretty much anywhere b.) Wings can give problems - eg. dizzy interference c.) Middle of the roof is good (ground planes) Which is a bit of shame, because I was thinking of using the holes in my wings (being FFR). Shame I didn't buy the *one*(!) side mount which I saw on sale at Sodbury. Problem with the roof mount is the total height. Perhaps if I have bendy one. (as it were, missus). Also, I have some holes in the hardtop already, which have been gaffer-taped by the PO... Finally found a local CB shop yesterday, and they have a collection of non-mag mounts, so I might be able to do something there... As for radios: above the windscreen sounds popular... Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) > The only problem with antennas on the front wings is static. I made the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)] > " " Camden, Delaware 19934 USA > http://www.dmv.com/~iceland > ------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 96 9:07:54 EST Subject: Thoughts on bulkhead repair ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Aerials on landrovers Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 14:17:10 GMT > >The only problem with antennas on the front wings is static. I made the > >mistake of mounting the shortwave antenna on Baby's right front wing. I [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > Take another and tie it to the ground lug on the back of the alternator, with > the wire attached to the voltage output lug. > Use resistor plugs, and the static should go away nicely. Which is what I guess I have in my little Lucas Demon-Box. Perhaps it will be a blessing after-all (rather than a bit which *has* to break whilst overtaking at 60+mph on the M25 whilst fully laden!). It was only a wire from the box to the coil which came undone, but it took long enough to find it. The get-me-home fix, was a simple take-it-out-of-the-circuit fix involving Christmas Wrapping tape amongst other things! In which case, I *can* use wing mounts (currently my preferred option) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:24:01 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: The stone of Scone >The "ex-Gurkha" FFR was also with the Coldstream Guards for 2/3 years! :-) What,polished like that???? Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:43:17 EST From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: So long and thanks for all the fish... Bye all. My last day here is tomorrow. (Sob.) I am off to work at BT in Ipswich, from Monday. I'm going to unsubscribe today incase things are a little delayed. I'll not be subscribing again for a while so you shall have to manage without me. Meanwhile feel free to mail me at the ID below, I'll be able to see it at weekends, etc. until I get somewhere long term sorted to live, then normal service will resume. Have fun, Steve PLEASE NOTE: I will be leaving Xyratex on Friday 22 Nov. Please forward all Spiker matters to Tommy Rickard, WINVMD (TOMMY), IBMMAIL (GBIBMJFM). Personal mail to Steve@lightweight.demon.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: 24 mpg from a V8! How? Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 14:47:05 -0000 From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.ward-hast@dial.pipex.com> People don't believe me!! I must say that I do not use my 110 V8 heavily, I also do not religiously record all mileage and petrol used and keep records of performance etc like I know some other V8 drivers do. Why do it, you know it drinks too much so why punish yourselves further. HOWEVER, ocassionally I do try to work out what I am getting usually by filling up, resetting the trip-meter, then working out the figures when I filling up again . So there are probably fluctuations. Earlier this year we went on holiday to Portugal, 4 people, 4 bikes, too much luggage etc. and over the whole holiday, including motorway driving, local sight seeing, fairly vigorous off roading at times, the magic figure on our return to London was 23.5mpg. My regular visits relatives in Birmingham, from South London, a round trip of c300 miles very rarely uses more than 58-60 litres (c22-23mpg?) However I do at times use her for commuting IN LONDON TRAFFIC!!, great for getting to where you want to go with no hassle or threats from taxis etc but the mpg drops to around 15-16 on a 42 mile round trip each day, over a week. She's 12 years old and has 90k miles on clock. I bought her two years ago and I have made no modifications other than basic maintenance. I service her every 6 months to Landrover Service Schedule and using best available parts. I run on 235/85/16 BFG Trac Edges and use unleaded fuel. I have replaced the vacuum advance, Starter motor, Power steering unit, Split Charge Unit, I overhauled the ignition system when I bought her and had her tuned at the same time, although I now tune her myself at service time, I may not be as accurate as the professionals but I save myself 60quid at time using my own timing light and multi-tester. Other than that she's no different to when she left Solihull. I do have a Kenlowe fan ready to be fitted, but I don't know how that will affect the performance yet. I'm sure other V8 drivers must be getting similar figures, I cannot be the only one. __________________________________ Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK "DOROTHY" - 1985, 110, V8, CSW (24mpg) __________________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:13:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Altimeters On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, ARTuro500@aol.com wrote: As I recall, holding the pieces in my hand, it >was of the coiled bimetal type and was affected somewhat by barometric >pressure. I certianly hope its (or was) affected by barometric pressure...thats how an altimeter works. Any altimeter that will give appreciable accuracy needs to be periodically calibrated to surrounding barometric pressure. One inch of mercury equals about one thousand feet of altitude. Hence, on aircraft altimeters there is a knob and a little window in which you set the current barometric pressure. In a vehicle you can calibrate the altimeter in one of two ways 1) fire up the old scanner an listen in to the weather reporting frequency (ATIS) at the local airport (neat, but a bit of work) or 2) find a spot of known alititude and set the altimeter. Option 2 is probably a lot easier unless you happen to hang out around airports a lot...there are plenty of spots that have the altitude posted along our roadways. You could also try to set it to the altitude readout on a GPS....I've heard varying reports, however, about the altitude accuracy of these units, especially the handheld ones. You need to have quite a few satellites in view to get a good alt. reading Anyway, thats my $.02 Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:13:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Aerials on landrovers On 21 Nov 96, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> wrote: >Take a couple of leftover condensers from tuneups past, and bolt one next to >the ignition coil. Connect the lead from it to the + lead on the coil. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >Use resistor plugs, and the static should go away nicely. > aj"Done this too much...."r Oh, so that's why I don't have any AM reception.... Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:13:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Thoughts on bulkhead repair On 21 Nov 96, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> wrote: >I'm about to wander into the morass of repairing the footwells and doorposts on >a bulkhead - off the car. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >I'm about to wander into the morass of repairing the footwells and doorposts on >a bulkhead - off the car. Why do it off the car?? If you're removing the bulkhead, then most everything else is coming off as well so access isn't a problem. I would do the replacing of parts that you need while on the chassis. Remember, the door posts are pretty critical to make everything line up nicely. Then, once its all tacked together, you can pull it off and make everything look pretty. If its only the footwells, though, you can probably get away with doing it off the car. Rgds, Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:13:57 -0500 (EST) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: Thoughts on bulkhead repair On 21 Nov 1996, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > I'm about to wander into the morass of repairing the footwells and doorposts on > a bulkhead - off the car. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] > OK. > Any opinions or better techniques? > ajr Al, having just gone through this mud-pit of hellish horror myself just let me say....you will lose your mind if this thing get more than 1/4 inch out of wack in any direction. I have no bits of wisdom just wishes of good luck... Russ W. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 10:28:12 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Thoughts on bulkhead repair >.you will lose your mind if this thing get more than 1/4 >inch out of wack in any direction. I have no bits of wisdom just wishes >of good luck... >Russ W. Actually, the bulkhead does have quite a bit of flex, and the steering box can (and usually needs to) be shimmed. Most important is getting the post aligned and the hinge spacing correct, also making sure the distance between the holes in the doorpost feet is the same. Measure twice, weld once...My bulkhead had the footwells put in in the shop, and then the doorpost welding done in situ...on the frame, everything lined up with the doors ON. Worked like a charm. later Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 96 10:35:34 EST Subject: Re: Aerials on landrovers ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:51:54 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: LR Sightings If you live in Ontario or anywhere within the TV Ontario broadcasting area watch for the British TV production "Heartbeat" normally seen on a Friday or Sunday evening. You will see a wealth of series vehicles including a LR fire truck used in this production which is set in the late 60's, early 70's. Some make regular appearances such as District Nurse Maggie Hallett's Series II (I think) soft top. Set in Yorkshire you can see Land Rovers at work each week in the setting they were designed for. If you don't get this program chase your local PBS station. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:57:37 -0800 From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit I'm looking for feedback on the Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit. The tank on my project Rover has surface rust and other crud inside. The kit comes with an acid wash/etch, a rinse and two quarts of sealant that you swirl around on the inside. Cost including shipping is about $45. Another option is to take it a local boiler repair shop that does antique vehicle gas tank restorations. Glass bead blasting the interior and exterior and then painting/baking both will cost more than $150. Friends have questioned whether either treatment will withstand the long-term effects of the gasoline. Third option could be to just powerwash it out, let it dry, fill with gas and drive cross-country twice. So what do you think? Neil Sheridan '65 88 "The Sheridan Valdez" --I promise I'll rename it as soon as it stops leaking ;-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 18:08:38 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: The stone of Scone Niel J. P. Fagan wrote: > Hi, > Anybody else notice that the large lump of rock the English stole [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Views expressed are personal and not those of the > University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. Was it a 110' or perhaps a 130' (127' ?)? I have the impression that the Landy in question was a little longer than a 110'. Anyhow, yup, interesting... Paul http://www.adventures.co.za ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:18:10 +0100 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Snap, crackle but no pop... yet Have a look if the springs are loose. With wear in the shakle plates and bushes this may happen. (I also thought so, but it was the battery under my seat) Peter -- Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think.... Homepage: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:15:46 +0100 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Jump starting a positive ground vehicle :) From: "Bert P. Krages" <krages@teleport.com> :) :) I need to what precautions must be taken when jump starting a positive :) ground vehicle using a negative ground vehicle. Can you do with the :) negative ground vehicle running? Can you do it with the negative ground :) vehicle not running? Can you do it with the negative ground vehicle not :) running but with the negative cable disconnected? :) Just connect the batteries (+ to +, - to -) You would have problems if the bodies of the two vehicles are (electrical) connected (e.g. after an impact) :-) Running the engine would avoid two standing cars with empty batteries Hope this helps a little. Peter BTW: I always (actually 2 times till now, 1st when the batterie was empty and 2nd when the starter died) got my cold 109 Diesel started by towing with a VW Golf for some meters. -- Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think.... Homepage: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:28:15 -0800 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: Re: Snap, crackle suggestion Gerry asks: >Have a strange noise from under the left front side of the IIA. There is a >loud crack that occasionaly emits when turning. Being a lazy person, I >haven't located the source of this noise. Greetings Gerry: My cracking noises went away when I tightened the axle/spring u-bolts. BTW: can someone provide me with the correct torque for them? I can't seem to find it in either of my shop manuals (Haynes and Rover). JohnO ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 11:30:19 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit >I'm looking for feedback on the Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit. The >tank >on my project Rover has surface rust and other crud inside. So do all of them... ...snip... > Glass bead blasting the interior and exterior and then painting/baking both >will cost more than $150. Friends have questioned whether either treatment >ill withstand the long-term effects of the gasoline. Third option could be to >just powerwash it out, let it dry, fill with gas and drive cross-country twice. > So what do you think? Pick door number 3. its free, and if it doesn't work you can get a new one... Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 11:47:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit The Eastwood kit can do a good job BUT it's success is DIRECTLY related to the amount of time and effort that you put in on it. Consider also the health considerations of what is in the tank now.... I have an old tank that is 1/4 full of gooey junk and I am going to get it alkali stripped and de-rusted. This wouln't do anything for the holes however... Rgds Quintin Aspin ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John D. Putnam" <jdputnam@whpacific.com> Subject: RE: Altimeters Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:23:53 -0800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The elevation you get with your GPS receiver is not based on = conventional sea level datum but is based on a mathematical model known = as the ellipsoid. The difference in the Pacific Northwest is around = 22m. This factor added to the inherent lack of accuracy with Code GPS = may give a false reading of 50m. Best to calibrate an altimeter at a = point of known elevation or just use the elevation from a contour map. John Putnam Surveyor at large '70 SWB SIIa Forest Grove, Or ---------- From: ericz@cloud9.net Sent: Thursday, November 21, 1996 7:13 AM Subject: Re: Altimeters On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, ARTuro500@aol.com wrote: As I recall, holding the pieces in my hand, it >was of the coiled bimetal type and was affected somewhat by barometric >pressure. I certianly hope its (or was) affected by barometric pressure...thats = how an altimeter works. Any altimeter that will give appreciable accuracy = needs to be periodically calibrated to surrounding barometric pressure. One inch of = mercury equals about one thousand feet of altitude. Hence, on aircraft = altimeters there is a knob and a little window in which you set the current barometric = pressure. In a vehicle you can calibrate the altimeter in one of two ways 1) fire = up the old scanner an listen in to the weather reporting frequency (ATIS) at = the local airport (neat, but a bit of work) or 2) find a spot of known alititude = and set the altimeter. Option 2 is probably a lot easier unless you happen to hang out around = airports a lot...there are plenty of spots that have the altitude posted along = our roadways. You could also try to set it to the altitude readout on a GPS....I've = heard varying reports, however, about the altitude accuracy of these units, = especially the handheld ones. You need to have quite a few satellites in view to = get a good alt. reading Anyway, thats my $.02 Eric ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBD78D.B71B4980 ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:24:45 -0800 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: Re:Fuel Tank Sealant Kits Neil asks: >I'm looking for feedback on the Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit. The tank >on my project Rover has surface rust and other crud inside. The kit comes with an acid >wash/etch, a rinse and two quarts of sealant that you swirl around on the inside. Cost >wash/etch, a rinse and two quarts of sealant that you swirl around on the Greeting Neil. I don't have experience with the Eastwood product, but have heard of an additional technique to consider: to clean the rust and crud out of the tank, use a big handfull of small ball-bearings (BB's) and hot detergent/water. Swish them around in the tank, then dump them out into a colander. Repeat until no more crud or rust appears in the water. The inside surfaces should be shiny by then, although I seem to recall the article said it could take up to an hour of repeated swishing. It's supposed to work well on old rusty motorcycle tanks. Rinse clean and follow Eastwood's directions. Good luck JohnO ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:24:53 -0800 (PST) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Fuel Tank Sealants On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, John Ousterhout wrote: > heard of an additional technique to consider: to clean the rust and crud out > ....use a big handful of small ball-bearings (BB's) and hot detergent/water. I used small pebbles once on a Scout gas tank. Also, some auto radiator repair places will clean and seal cruddy gas tanks: probably more expensive than Eastwood's kit, but the work I had done was 'guaranteed' for a time. Best wishes, David Rosenbaum ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 20:00:26 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Ecclesiastical voodoo
Hi All,
Have now waded through last weeks posts. Who was the pins & angels culprit ?
^^^^^ almost a LR content.
RE: the trip to Norway / Lofoten Islands, my friend here (a Norweigan) drove up
from Bergen to the Lofoten Islands this summer. If you have any specific queries
re: routes, ferries, stopping points etc, I can put them to him if you like.
Enjoyed the Left/Right debate immensely.
Bill Adams asks:
> Did you check out Geoffrey Said's diesel 2-alpha ? (in Malta)
No, but I did see some interesting coil conversions on a couple of lightweights
.... Some large Maltese gentlemen wanted to know why I had my head stuck under
their LR... !!
Cheers, Paul.
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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 21 Nov 96 12:19:04 MST
Subject: D110 for sale in Arizona
FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov
Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Just thought some of y'all might want to know...
There's a '93 (what else?) D110 for sale at the Scottsdale Land Rover
dealer in Arizona. It's been there for a few weeks now, so may not last
too much longer. Around 30K miles, has luggage rack and bull/roo bar.
Asking around $45K.
Only "flaw" I noticed is a small tear in the corner of the middle seat
upholstery. Might be a bargaining point? Most likely never been
off-road.
Their phone # is: 602-990-7900. If you buy, mention my name and I'll get
a few bucks!
Dave Brown - Home: 602-820-8052 (I know we're all trustworthy, right?)
What lies behind us and what lies #=======# _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us. | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_)
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]Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:25:16 -0500 From: David_R@mindspring.com (David Russell) Subject: Re: USA: Towing a vehicle on a 2-wheel dolly (very long) My submission for the towball award: Over Columbus Day weekend my wife made me buy a 69 IIA in great shape, except for the chassis. The seller's agent, Bryan at the Classic Rover in Connecticut (see my Web page for phone #), had a 2yr old galv. chassis w/front and rear axles, body tub, roof, and seat cushions which we also bought for the new 88". As the Rover ran fine but might disintegrate at any moment, we had it shipped to our home in Maryland and planned to get the chassis home on our own. Here's the story: Friday, November 8, 1996: 0530: get up and metro to Union Station, Washington, DC 0715-1145: Amtrack (train) from Union Station to New Rochelle, NY (25 miles north of NYC) 1150: Brother picks me up in his V-6 Nissan P/U 4x4, his pride and joy (this is important) which will be used as Tow Vehicle ~1330: Arrive White Plains, NY (near New Rochelle) U-Haul dealer to pick up tow dolly. There is no dolly in sight and am greeted w/basically "Reservation, what reservation?" I *do not* loose my patience as this has happened to me many times before w/UH. Finally we discover that my dolly is in the Bronx. So, I drive south (this is when I realize that I ignored the 7 P's, proper planning prevents p**s-poor performance. But, we are dealing w/a Land Rover) ~1430: Arrive at the Gaseteria in the Bronx where, in fact, there *is* a tow dolly but no advance warning of my arrival. ~1515: Leave Gaseteria after many phone calls and explanations that yes, I am a customer, have put down a deposit, am not stealing the tow dolly, etc. Mind you, we're now talking a 75-100 mile drive to northwestern CT to get my chassis. ~1620: get off highway and am ~15 miles from the chassis. Call Bryan, who I discover *needs* to leave by 1630. It's now dark and rainy and I'm on a 2-lane road congested w/traffic. ~10 miles from chassis and I pass a UH center that, had I adhered to the 7p's, probably would have saved me a lot of aggravation by picking up the dolly here. 1630: ~5 miles from chassis: loud noises from the back of the truck cause me to look in the mirrors and see the dolly wildly out of control (this at 30mph). I see the wheel, the tounge, another wheel. I manage to stop in a Chrysler dealer's lot and get out, in the rain, and discover that the ball has come off. Now I'm not going to meet Bryan (will have to load Chassis by myself) and I have no tow ball. Into the Chrysler dealer and purchase new ball #1. Outside, in rain (Still don't even have chassis) to install new ball. Discover: a: Nissan uses a female tow ball on their bumper mounts and b: new ball #1's shank is too short--can thread nut maybe 1/2 way w/out lock washer. Back into Chrysler dealer (closing soon) and no balls w/longer shank. However, free loctite and prayers that I find ball w/longer shank in *opposite* direction. So, I'm off. Stop for gas (opposite UH center, which looks closed) and ask for ideas. Next to UH center is snowmobile/quad-runner/jet-ski/motorboat dealer--still open. Last $11.00 goes to new ball #2 w/long shank. 1800: arrive at darkened pkg lot (still raining) alone and manage to get vehicle positioned to load chassis. Many attempts later, front wheels are where they should, on the dolly, but it looks like I'm towing a huge wind scoop (remember, roof, w/out windshield & front end is still attached. So, I tentatively set off. (I'm not an expert tower, but I have towed before) 1830-2010: Drive from CT to NY to pick up my brother for drive to MD. Stop three times to check load and discover that bumper has been bent where the ball is located. It *looks* like a steel bumper but I've seen aluminum bumpers that look similar so I'm a little worried. 2010: arrive NY to chuckling little brother and sister. Brother stops chuckling when he sees the bumper. My suggestion is to rest and get up early but he says no, doesn't want to ruin his weekend by driving on Saturday. 2100: After final checks (dolly's lights are no longer 100%) we set off. Down I-95, over George Washington Bridge to NJ. (It's the second windiest weekend of the fall). 2145-0300: Arrive at top of NJ turnpike. Directed to *Exit* t-pike at first exit as wind is too much for trailers. Get off t-pike and take Route 1, not a highway but very sceneic if you're into car dealers, malls, and traffic lights. across NJ to Philadelphia. Except for the speed, 55mph max, and the weather, rain and wind, the rest of the trip was uneventful. My brother deserves credit for a: driving the whole way and b: not killing me for damaging his bumper and, we later discovered, denting his RR lower quarter panel. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. >From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> >Subject: Re: USA: Towing a vehicle on a 2-wheel dolly: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >coming up, because he's already in strong running for the towball award, so >what harm could this do him? Sorry for the bandwidth usage but, IMHO, I think it's kind of funny. Cheers, David Russell 1969 Series IIA SWB faded Pastel Green last seen @ http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r David_R@mindspring.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:29:16 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: LROI North American Coverage Following my trip to the UK I can report that North American content should continue at current levels. Carl Rodgerson accepts the importance of the US market and will continue to report on events. Look for the return of Jim Allen in the December issue as well as a report on Land Rover Trek 96 held in Georgia. Please note that subcription offers in LROI offering free polo shirts/calenders/autographed Jim Allen pictures etc apply to UK residents only. In North America we offer special offers through the Internet although we will have some new and exciting offers available to all in the spring. Watch this space! Watch also for an Internet competition with prizes coming soon. Hope this posting does not offend anyone. I am not selling anything, just reporting back as promised. ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:32:17 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: UK Registration info
Hi all.
I find myself without a previous title for my 109".
I hired a company to import it from the U.K. for me and paid them to oversee
the exchange of money & vehicle/paperwork -after much recent discussion as
to the /easiest/ way for me to register my truck in the U.S.A. it has come
out that they do not have either a bill of sale or a signed over
registration for me. It was /my/ responsibility to get such, they now say.
It also seems that they have no interest in helping me in any way.
Can I prove what was said? I have no tapes, but much of my work is
technical support by phone and I do have quite detailed notes -so there's no
misunderstanding on my part.
My question?
I'm hoping that someone in the U.K. could tell me about the possibility of
getting a copy of the registration, or even just a phone # for the proper
agency.
Any suggestions or opinions appreciated.
Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christopher Weinbeck Office Logic, Inc. V (508) 392-0288
_______ 7 Littleton Road F (508) 692-0897
|__][_[_\__ Westford, MA 01886 Computerization for
|___\_|_]__] the healthcare
(o) (o) '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile professional
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:55:29 +1000
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Windshield.Windscreen
Hi all
After taking my LR onto some rough roads the windsreen has somehow come
loose and constantly shakes. IS there a way to fix this problem on a series 3.
I have another question. Some of you may remember that I asked for a lot of
advice on how to take out and put in a gear box. Well I thought that have
had done everything correctly. Now, every now and then the release bearning
makes noise. I changed the bearing and greased it well. Anyone know why this
has happened? Can something be done without taking the GB out again and can
this problem cause any type of damage to the clutch --- or anything else for
that matter.
Thanks in advance
Mirek
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
Miroslav Belik Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU
UWS, Macarthur Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555 FAX: 61 46 203025
Campbelltown, 2560
NSW
Australia.
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]Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:15:26 -0800 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: UK Registration info Christopher Weinbeck wrote: > Hi all. > I find myself without a previous title for my 109". [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)] > (o) (o) '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile professional > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ You could try writing to / calling the DVLC (Driver and Vehicle Licensing Centre in Swansea, Wales - they should be able to help - but it could take years to get through to the right person. I would suggest posting this on the uk list, as subscribers there may have more up to date knowledge of the intricate workings of the english registration system. (Sorry, though I am english, I moved away to denmark in 1983!) Other avenues of investigation - do you know a good shipping agent - he might be able to help you through the shipping industries enquiry systems, the shipper / shipowner may also have a copy of the bill of lading - do you know when it was shipped? from which port? By which agent/shipping company/ship? English LRO's may be able to advise of the investigation/claims/complaints system within the shipping trade in the UK - sounds to me like these guys just took you money and ran! The port authority in the port of export, or the appropraite customs and excise office may be interested in a shipper whop doesn't undertake the proper paperwork. Maybe a call to a good shipping lawyer would help - do you know anyone privatly - maybe there's someone with that expertise in the US LRO net? This sort of indifferent bad service really gets my wind up - I am sorry that I can't offer more concrete advice. Just find out who to sue, and threaten to do so! Good luck Chris! -- adrian redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) tel: +45 86 57 22 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk 1: Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up 2: Series III 1979 88" D Hard top (Icelander) --------------------------------------------------- "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!" --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:27:51 -0500 Subject: Re: rotten timing On 21 Nov 96 at 13:41, BRITPAC@aol.com wrote: > We recently received the Dec. issue of LRW. Unfortunately, the editor decided > to include a photo of 2 women topless (flashing). We have returned the stock > to LRW and informed the editor why we did so. We will not sell that issue now > or in the future (although 2 did go out before we pulled it). I can't believe my timing. This morning was the first time I have ever called to get an issue of LRW, (to check out the article on Don Scott's V-12/LR hybrid), I get told BP won't be carrying that issue and I get the sense I have asked something slightly suspect. Now I get it. But not Dec. LRW I guess. (Try finding it in this part of Maine). Honest folks, I don't have to call California to see that sort of thing. We have friends over for saunas all the time. The nice people at the LRO shop are sending me a copy of just the Don Scott article, even though it's from the competition, so many thanks to them. I must say I was pretty impressed by their helpfulness. I'll probably subscribe to LROI after all. Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 21 Nov 96 15:37:01 MST
Subject: Nudity in LR mags...
FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov
Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Steve,
I compliment you for your ethics! I knew you (BRITPAC) were "good guys"!
I hope you won't find too many on the LR list(s) that will defend the
"right" for a publisher to display nudity. Technically, legally, no
doubt they do, but that by no means makes it right.
Cudo's to you!!!
What lies behind us and what lies #=======# _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us. | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_)
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]From: MHKINGER@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 18:17:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Thoughts on bulkhead repair I would not do the job unmounted. It is so critical having the holes line up on your outriggers that a jig that is not perfect in matching the outrigger dimension and the bracket angle. Off it could be risky. Before I did mine I asked around and everyone advised me to do it mounted. I used additional supports to prevent movement even on the vehicle. Good Luck ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 21 Nov 96 18:38:42 EST From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Night laning Hi all Went for a night time laning session yesterday - left at eightish last night with my navigator Dave, and headed off down to the Dorking area to do some known lanes. It all went well and after the heavy rains we have had the past week or so, some of the puddles were bonnet level :-) All of the lanes we went to have a fairly firm base so there was no bad mud, but that was OK as neither of us fancied getting stuck. Stopped off for a quick pint in Coldharbour then carried on laning. It really is peaceful laning at this time of night - no-one around at all (usually) and total silence when you stop in the middle of nowhere to look at the view or something. Time was getting on - about 2am - and we decided to do one last lane before setting off home. I know what you are thinking - it is always the 'quick last one' that stuffs you up for hours, but we knew this lane very well and there is no more than a slight splash of mud here and there. So off we trolled - drifting along at about 15 - 20 mph over a heath between Box Hill and Headley. Driving through some bush branches that were half sticking out over the track there was an almighty crash and our peace was shattered by a 3ft log coming through the windscreen. I skidded to a stop, really trying to work out exactly what had happened for 10 seconds or so, then we got out to see where the log had come from. Thankfully the windscreen was laminated as it absorbed a lot of the blow - if it had been a toughened screen I probably would have been hurt. As it was my hand got grazed by the windscreen being pushed onto my hand which was steering at the time but nothing else. At this point in the track there are NO TREES. Light bushes about six foot high bordering the track, a few saplings but NO TREES. We had a quick look around but could find no explanation for what had happened. All we can think is that there was a nutter up there who threw the log at the vehicle and promptly legged it, or someone had rigged up some sort of a trap for vehicles. There are no houses for miles around and unfortunately we had left Daves dog at home so we really didn't know what was going on. We kicked the rest of the screen out and finished the lane before driving home. I phoned the police this morning to let them know but they didn't seem particularly interested! Lets be careful out there! Regards Richard Surrey UK 77 Range Rover 81 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM Date: 21 Nov 96 09:47:55 EST Subject: Re: Re: Snap, crackle but no pop... yet This sounds sort of like a problem I had. I had two strange noises, a sort of creaking which I identified as loose bodywork-steering box bolts (tightening them and other nearby bolts reduced the noise.) The other was a cracking which occured when turning the wheel with force. Apparently this was the bearings popping out of the race, one too many and no steering! I replaced the box before this happened, but I know of people who this has happened to. Regards, Ralph. ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:03:37 -0800 From: rogers@batnet.com (Jeffrey A. Rogers) Subject: Clunk, Clunk: GEAR ROLLOVER? Hello all. I have a '95 D90 that has developed a violent "clunk" in the drive train when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I suspect that it's a combination of normal gear rollover and a worn emergency brake. The local dealership agrees and says this is normal. Thing is, this "clunk" recently developed, which suggests to me that it can be fixed. Has anyone had a similar experience? What should be done to fix this problem. Jeff Rogers rogers@batnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:05:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Nudity in LR mags... (Confused) In a message dated 96-11-21 18:34:40 EST, David Brown writes: > I compliment you for your ethics! I knew you (BRITPAC) were "good guys"! > I hope you won't find too many on the LR list(s) that will defend the > "right" for a publisher to display nudity. Technically, legally, no > doubt they do, but that by no means makes it right. What brought this up? What are you talking about? Did I miss an earlier message? Seriously, am I not receiving all LRO-list messages, or is this a cross post from another list, or was it intended as a private reply? BTW, let's not have a free speech discussion/debate in this forum. I have my own opinions which I will share if prompted, but this forum should be limited to LR topics only. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:28:53 -0500 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@mail.idt.net> Subject: How to test a non-running engine Hi all, With a little 30 weight oil in each cylinder and a little pulling on the starter dog with a pry bar, I have freed the engine of one of the SIII. I was told that one of the valves was burnt but otherwise the engine was in good order. I plan to run a compression test, realizing that the values will be low since I can't warm up the engine (the carb and distributor need some work on them and are presently out). What I'm looking for is consistency in value from one cylinder to the next. My question is, can I tell if the crankshaft, rods and bearings are ok without the engine running (like listening to the engine as it is cranked for grinding or knocking) or do I need to get it running before I can assess it fully. Thanks, Nate dunsmo19@mail.idt.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:01:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Reg & Playing with dollies... For some reason I don't get Alan Richer's posts, just the header, but I did see a response to what he apparently asked about vehicles on dollies and their need to registered. A couple of weeks ago, I dollied a '64 LR from Bethel, Vt. to Bill Leacock near Buffalo. No problems on the Thruway, but I did have to pay an additional toll for the additional axles. When I brought back a P5 from Toronto during the same trip, there were also no problems, even at customs/border. Prior to setting out, I did inquire as best I could. Vermont allows unregistered vehicles on dollies. They do have 'defective equipment' laws that might be effected if an 'event' happens. For NY, most private parties just advised me to do it, I never got an official answer. During my asking around, several persons commented about Mass., which apparently does require registration. But then I also spoke with people who regularly pull vehicles behind a car carrier with no plate present, as they return from the car auctions in Conn. They also said 'just do it'. If you do go the dolly route, I'd suggest you secure the steering (easiest at the steering wheel) by means of a rope or such. Most dollies have a pivot built in, and that with the additional movement of the dollied vehicle from its unlockable, LR steering (even with front wheels on dolly) is a bit dis-orienting at speed. Wandering and reaction time kind of considerations. And the dead of night is always a good time for such things. You'll not only draw less attention, you'll also avoid those oh-so-pleasant and understanding tailgaters... see 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 LR 88" SW w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?) "Nicky" LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 18:38:11 -0800 From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net> Subject: Re: Domestic practicality (was: My Friend's 109 SW is For Sale) At 03:47 PM 11/20/96 -500, you wrote: >Selling a IIA 109 SW for "domestic practicality reasons"! >What sort of domestic situation could drive one to do it? >Suggest living in the 109, cheaper than a home and every >bit as cozy, don't you think? MG Or else leave the domestic life behind and drive off in the 109", hands wrapped around the steering wheel like steel claws, cackling with glee as you smash through the neighbor's annoying little hedge, bouncing into the street like a modern-day bush ranger, scattering econo-boxes to the winds, heading off into the great unknown future with only your trusty rover at your side, and feeling the manly rush of freedom as you cast off the shackles of the work-a-day life and proclaim to the world, "I am not a number, I am a free man!" shaking your angry fist at the sky all the while... Ooops. Sorry. Think my Cobol compile is done yet? --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 18:37:51 -0800 From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net> Subject: Re: USA: Towing a vehicle on a 2-wheel dolly: At 03:14 PM 11/20/96 -0500, you wrote: >> > Does a tow dolly have to be registered? > For Ontario, the dolly needs to be registered. The vehicle on > the dolly does not. You can flat tow a LR and it doesn't need > to be registered either to my knowledge. Recently had my 88" towed (all 4 wheels on the ground) and it didn't need registration -- I did go to the DMV and get a 1 day moving permit, which meant I had to pay past due fees (to get the permit free), or pay $10 for the permit. If the vehicle is registered non-op ($5/yr) the permit is free. --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:44:06 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Collector cards and other stuff
Unless I'm mistaken, the source of most of this stuff *is* Triple C. Others
are reselling it. You've seen the "No Parking Except for Land Rover" signs?
The "by city ordinance number" on the bottom of the sign is actually the
owner's birthday. Cheers
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
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]From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:53:49 -0500 Subject: Re: How to test a non-running engine Nate is resurrecting a dead engine and inquires: > My question is, can I tell if the crankshaft, rods and bearings are ok > without the engine running (like listening to the engine as it is > cranked for grinding or knocking) or do I need to get it running before > I can assess it fully. Depending on your comfort level with mechanics you can drop the oil pan in situ, see if the rods ends wiggle (major trouble), then pull the bearing caps one at a time to check for scoring and use Plastigage to check clearances. Not repair manual proceedure but can be done. You will need a good torque wrench to reinstall the caps. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: 24 mpg from a V8! How?
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 10:21:37 +-100
Earlier this year we went on holiday to Portugal, 4 people, 4 bikes, too
much luggage etc. and over the whole holiday, including motorway driving,
local sight seeing, fairly vigorous off roading at times, the magic
figure on our return to London was 23.5mpg. My regular visits relatives
in Birmingham, from South London, a round trip of c300 miles very rarely
uses more than 58-60 litres (c22-23mpg?)
Sounds good, on hollidays in Norway and Sweden, we
do about 21 - 22 mpg with 2 adults and 2 children,
and all needed luggage. But that is long trips, with
motor hot all the time.
However I do at times use her for commuting IN LONDON TRAFFIC!!, great
for getting to where you want to go with no hassle or threats from taxis
etc but the mpg drops to around 15-16 on a 42 mile round trip each day,
over a week.
In town traffic, we do about 14,8mgp. I keep record of
all fuel and driving (requied by tax autorities).
The car is a 1983 110" 12seater, V8 3,5 compression 8.13
running on unleaded 92octane. It have 240Kkm ( 149000miles)
on the clock.
It never see an autorized workshop, I do everything myself.
Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/
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end
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Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 03:40:03 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit
Neil asks..
>I'm looking for feedback on the Eastwood Company's Fuel Tank Sealant Kit.
>The tank on my project Rover has surface rust and other crud inside.
-
I've used the Eastwood sealant kit.. you might be able to get a years use
out of the tank if you are lucky. How well the sealant works depends on how
badly the tank is rusted. Bear in mind, the tank is probably rusted from the
outside in. That lovely double shell, combined with the fuel tank outriggers
provides the perfect place for dirt and moisture to accumulate. The tank
rusts behind the outer shell. You can get all the rust off the inside, but
you will still have that hidden area which will continue to rust.
The idea behind the sealant is good.. and a lot cheaper than a new tank, so
if you are short on funds (aren't we all) I would recommend it as a
temporary fix.
A word of warning.. the fumes from the sealant are pretty potent - probably
toxic as well. You need to work somewhere well ventilated - like outside -
and the weather needs to be warm and dry for the sealant to dry properly.
Leave the drain plug in the tank when you start sealing it - and then never
remove the plug. If you do, it will break the seal.
>.......... Another option is to take it a local boiler repair
>shop that does antique vehicle gas tank restorations. Glass bead blasting
>the interior and exterior and then painting/baking both will cost more than
>$150.
-
Again, the problem is the double-shell design. Unless the shop is going to
un-solder the outer shell and then re-attach it, you will still have rust.
Here in New York State (probably other places, too) there is a company
called ReNuzit (or something like that) that supposedly dis-assembles the
tank, makes the repairs and then puts it all back together. Probably the
best route for a repair, but you can probably buy a new tank for the same price.
Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St. 1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green
Gloversville 1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY 12078 (USA) 7 1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
#:-}> 1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG
------------------------------
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]From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Domestic practicality (was: My Friend's 109 SW is For Sale) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 96 8:50:08 GMT > At 03:47 PM 11/20/96 -500, you wrote: > >Selling a IIA 109 SW for "domestic practicality reasons"! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > shackles of the work-a-day life and proclaim to the world, "I am not a > number, I am a free man!" shaking your angry fist at the sky all the while... Not quite the same as the original: A Land Rover driving across the sands at Portmerion, with the driver shouting "I'm not a bubble car! I'm a free Landy!". Some half shackles/ropes are probably hanging off the back and dragging in the sand. > Ooops. Sorry. Think my Cobol compile is done yet? almost as bad as F77 which we use here... Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 54 lines 2410 [forwarded 212 whitespace 562] Output: lines 1761 [content 1076 forwarded 111 (cut 101) whitespace 505] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961122 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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