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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 13:01:35 +0100
Subject: Re: Norway

Whoops! Seems like the major doesn't like mime encoding very much :-(

> isolated this place used to be. I didn't know there was a ferry going there,
> is that fairly new? Nice place, anyway, we stayed at the campground there.

I'm not sure how long the ferry has been there, but it's at least a couple
of years. I took it for the first time two years ago. Actually it does not
end up inside Aa, it lands a couple of kilometres furter in.

TK
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol
Member of Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://regina.uio.no/nlrk/

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 07:34:36 -0500
Subject: Hybrid information

All the thinking about restoration and modification I have done lately, and 
the fact that I am involved in both hybrid LR and restoration projects, has 
made me wish there was a place where we could go to check out what others 
have done in modifying/hybridizing their Rovers.  There is a lot of 
information available on stock restored vehicles, but  I feel I have been 
reinventing the wheel in trying to do my diesel/coil  conversion.  I know 
others have done some pretty nice mods and was wondering if someone has the 
space and time on a website to collect this sort of thing from us as a 
reference database of who has done what, and where to find the right 
conversion kit or part.
I have seen bits of this here and there documenting individual projects, 
but unless I have missed it, no one place for collected experience.  
Perhaps one of these places could be used.  Any volunteers?

Ron Franklin

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:02:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fitting spots to a 110 Defender

On Mon, 18 Nov 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> wrote:

>Backing Plate was the correct part.

Yes, but installed backwards?

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:05:52 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Thrust SSC   (screw request!)

                      URGENT URGENT URGENT

                    ....snip...
>The ThrustSSC team are currently carrying out high speed testing in Jordan,
>and have an urgent requirement for countersunk crosshead screws of the
>following specification ....

Darn it! All I have are these silly rounded off whitworths...

Dave b.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:12:37 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Rear axle

 How do I tell if it is the axle or diff without =
taking the whole thing apart?

No dice, man. Gotta take the whole thing apart anyway. If you MUST know before 
you pull the diff, undo the cotter pin and castle nut at the end of the axle and
yank it free. If the end looks like the bionic man took a bite out of it then 
you have a broken axle. Repeat this procedure on the other side.

If it is only the halfshafts ( I will replace both ), what else should I =
replace ( seals, bearings, ect....)?

Diff gasket, whichever end break is at you can inspect bearings for small shards
of metal, any gaskets you undo should be replaced, some people (not me!) prefer 
to remove the axle by undoing the hub driving memeber...

  Can I replace the pinion seal =
without taking the whole diff apart ( I have noticed a minor leak there =
)?

Yes. Cotter pin, castle nut remove drive flange, mudsheild? and then prise the 
seal from the casing. Boy it seems like Ive done this...

Good luck mate

Dave b.

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:20:29 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Ray asked about D90 axle breathers to replace the vents on his Series truck.
I don't know how they're routed on a D90, but when I did the same job to my
Ser.III the longer one with the banjo fitting went on the back axle.  This
allowed the tube to follow the brake lines and hose, then exit into the cab
behind the seats.  There I attached another hose which vented near the fuel
filler hose behind the right seat.  The shorter front breather hose went up,
attached near the brake lines beneath the battery, then up behind the grill
under the horn.  Another hose was attached to the tube there and this ended
up stuck into the top of the aircleaner.  If water gets that high I've got
more serious things to worry about then water in the diff !
Cheers,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Ga.
'73 Ser. III on jackstands w/ broken axles   :...(

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:26:57 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Tailgating

On Fri, 15 Nov 1996, Alexander P. Grice wrote:
<snip>
> brightens considerably.  "Yes..." he stammers.  Mind you since I left the 
  [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)]
> won't." His jaw dropped a yard, and he remained speechless/motionless as I 
> drove off into the night.

.> I would say the ultimate revenge would have been to say,"It'll 
>cost ya, big time!"  Then take his money and THEN leave him in the ditch 
>to pay off his Karmic Credit Card.  Then again, I can be a real d**k, 
>just ask my wife!

Uhmm, that's okay, we belive you! :)
Personally Id rather take ALOT of his money, then tow him out and let him drive 
home, (he'd probably get stuck again)
Actually he probably wouldn't be carrying enough cash...I guess hed have to 
remain ditch bound.

Later

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 05:30:20 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: d90 axle vents on a siia...

At  9:28 AM 11/18/96 -0600, Ray Harder wrote:

>help me with my installation problem.  i just
>purchased 2 d90 axle vents to install on my siia
;and i don't know where to route the tubing.  one is
>about 2ft long and the other is about 4ft long.
;dont know which to install on the front and which
>to install on the back.  and where to route.  i thought
;it would be good to route both up on the bulkhead, but
>it doesn't seem to be long enough...
;
>and with the 4-hour investment in 2 new rear axle seals,
>i don't want to drive too much without installing them.
;
>Sincerely,
;
>Ray Harder
;
The rear one is the long one with the banjo fitting.  The front one is the
short one the sticks straight out the top.

I put a gentle 'S' curve in the front just above the axle for articulation
and ran the tube up vertically between the inside of the radiator and the
baffle behind it.  I wedged it into the side edge space away from the fins.

I routed the rear one like the defenders rear breathers are routed.  Follow
the rear break line along the top of the frame.  There will be  hole in the
side of the frame where it goes up over the axle.  Route the end of the
tube into the frame.

They made a big difference on my car, eliminating pinion and axle seal leaks.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 9:13:33 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Engine Change

There must be an adaptor plate out there somewhere. Try one of these 
folks that advertise in LRO or LRW. Or fabricate your own.
I can say for sure that a swap to a diesel will be a vast improvement. 
You won't go faster, but all that fiddling and fussing will be history. 
Your monthly tune-up will be a simple check of the valve clearance and  
the distributor pump timing...about 15 minutes worth of trouble. Beside 
all that you will get a big jump in fuel mileage, which will help recoup 
the cost of the swap.
You will lose your brake booster if it is fitted. There is no manifold 
vacuum on a diesel. An air pump can be added.
Instrumentation should be the same. You'll keep your current fuel tank. 
Rover diesels have a low-fuel warning lamp...something to consider if you 
dislike bleeding diesels when you've run it dry.
Major mods will be motor mounts, exhaust pipes, and tranny adaptors. 
Minor mods will include wiring, fuel lines and a new starter motor.
Hopefully you have already targeted an engine. 

Rotsa ruck, and get that checkbook warmed up! Ka ching, ka ching.....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:21:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: d90 axle vents on a siia...

On Tue, 19 Nov 1996, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> They made a big difference on my car, eliminating pinion and axle seal leaks.

TeriAnn, golly i am dumb -- i am putting mine on to try and keep
the hub seals from leaking.  it didn't even register to me that
it might help the pinion seal -- and the fact that i have replaced
the rear pinion seal twice in the past 2 years should have clicked
somewhere... (FWIW, i use air on the big pinion nut -- a recent thread
on one of the lists)

btw, i am getting conflicting routing diagrams.  it is not clear
which i will finally use -- i am keeping all the descriptions and
will crawl under there the next warm afternoon...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder -- 61 siia 88 (LULU)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 06:42:46 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: D90 running out of gas.

On Mon, 18 Nov 1996, 12/4/95 wrote:
> Ran out of gas the other day.  That will be the third
> time I've drained the tank, you'd think I would learn.  

Dear Rich:

Thank goodness that nobody got hurt - what a wild story!

To keep from running out of gas in my D90, I re-set my trip 
odometer with every fill-up. When it gets up to 200 mi, I think 
of filling up again. At 225 mi, I look seriously for a gas station.
Once on a freeway, the odo read 240 before I found a gas station -
I was sweating! 

Best wishes,
David R.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:28:49 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Bush Rangies

The Bush rangie is available in the UK as a Dakkar (SP). It's
a kit car here - home build or the makers will do it for a
small (?????) fee.

A friend costed one and he reackoned he could do a bargain basement
one for 4K pounds.

The only problem I see with these is that they have raised sills,
ie above the floor.  Do they have drain holes as well?

They are quite easy to make, it's just a rebodied RR.

Cheers, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 10:24:49 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: d90 axle vents on a siia...

>>btw, i am getting conflicting routing diagrams.  it is not clear
>>which i will finally use --

Ok, then i'll make it a little more confusing. I ran both mine op into the 
engine compartment. I had to add on a section of hose to the rear one. I bought 
the kits from RN, and I couldn't for the life of me figure out how they were 
supposed to go from the diagrams. The front follows the same path as someone 
elses, up along the side of the rad and then back toward the firewall, ending 
near the brake booster. the rear follows the front to rear brake line and goes 
up the firewall and is tucked in behind the heater blower.
No clips anywhere, and its all made from regular vaccuum line tubing available 
anywhere.
BTW, I have a leaky hub seal anyway...
Not to mention leaky diffs front and back, but not through the pinion seal.

later
Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 07:21:17 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: d90 axle vents on a siia...

At  8:21 AM 11/19/96 -0600, Ray Harder wrote:
>On Tue, 19 Nov 1996, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
;
>> They made a big difference on my car, eliminating pinion and axle seal leaks.
;
>TeriAnn, golly i am dumb -- i am putting mine on to try and keep
>the hub seals from leaking.  it didn't even register to me that
;it might help the pinion seal -- and the fact that i have replaced
>the rear pinion seal twice in the past 2 years should have clicked
>somewhere... (FWIW, i use air on the big pinion nut -- a recent thread
;on one of the lists)
;
My rear seals always leaked until I followed some advice from Scotty.  He
suggested RTV along the splined edges of the felt seal and along the
sealing area of the dust cover.

On the front, the seal has to be good, the ring the seal rides on needs to
be like new, and the the seal and ring needs to be exactly concentric.
Some cars have shim spacers on steering ball pins to center the hub.  If
these were left out during a steering pin rebuild, you will never get a
front wheel seal without recentering the hub.

>btw, i am getting conflicting routing diagrams.  it is not clear
;which i will finally use -- i am keeping all the descriptions and
>will crawl under there the next warm afternoon...

My front routing is something I decided to do on my own.  It gets the tube
opening up to near the top of the radiator fins, and tucks it out of the
way of splash and the fan.

Someone at Rover's North told me how the rear was routed on US spec D90s.
Routing it over the top of the frame keeps it out of harms way and a high
point of the frame is supposed to protect the opening from brief dunkings.
I suspect that there are better ways to place the tube opening if you do
deep wading.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 07:25:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: UK LH/RH Travel...

At 08:48 PM 11/18/96 EST, you wrote:
>They are, in order:
>Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
>Time Travelers Strictly Cash

Whups!  You're right.  Dunno what I was thinking.  Actually, I was just
testing you. Yeah, that's it.  Well done, you passed!  Congratulations!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Radio ideas
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 15:35:32 GMT

Hi! I'm trawling for ideas...

I now have a (cheapo) radio, and a set of CB kit (in theory two, if its all
working), so now I have to figure how to fit 2 radios (1 radio/tape, 1 CB)
into a SIII 109" FFR. All I need to buy is a 24v-12v psu and a CB aerial
(CBs have gone *really* out of fashion in the UK, haven't they?). I know
where to get the psu from - just plucking up courage to re-order it (I ordered
one in May, but my card bounced! :-(   ).

The problem, is where/how to mount it all.
With it being FFR, I have the radio panel, which I can run the psu off. This
is nice and accessible on the front side of the "payload" bulkhead. I can
easily add a fuse inline with it all. If I had one radio, I could somehow
strap it to the bulkhead.
Also, being FFR, the centre seat has been replaced with the battery box.
I've seen someone who has taken the non-FFR 3/4 tonne, and built a wooden
box to go in this centre-seat position. Seems to work well (except my
carpentry probably isn't quite upto it!).
Speakers shouldn't be a problem, the hardtop has a couple of diagonal brackets
which I should be able to bolt something to.
I can put an aerial on the wing
(plenty of holes). CB aerial: wing mount, or gutter mount: which do people
find best?

I see Halfords do little boxes to fit tapes and a radio/tape, but these
wouldn't fit a CB. Also, where would I put it?

No doubt someone with a 3/4 tonner or Lwt has had this problem?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 10:35:36 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: d90 axle vents on a siia...

>My rear seals always leaked until I followed some advice from Scotty.  He
>suggested RTV along the splined edges of the felt seal and along the
>sealing area of the dust cover.

I always liked the fact that the felt seal leaks a little, it seems to let oil 
leach into the wheel bearings...brilliant design, Id say. Are you filling your 
hubs with oil or packing the bearings with grease? I usually pack mine if Im 
taking them out for something, but the dont seem to need it. I figure there's a 
reason why there's a hole into the hub from outside. But your seals better be 
damn good if you're putting oil in the hub. 

>>On the front, the seal has to be good, the ring the seal rides on needs to
be like new, and the the seal and ring needs to be exactly concentric.

I guess if the stub axle was bent, this could be a problem. Anyone ever seen 
that happen?

>>Some cars have shim spacers on steering ball pins to center the hub.

But not Land Rovers. The shims only affect the depth, and hence the preload of 
the pins. Your steering ball could be hanging from a tree limb and the hub would
still be centered...

later

Dave B

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:47:38 -500
Subject: Trailer Conversion Circuit Please?

Does someone out there have the circuit to convert three bulb 
(park/turn/brake) stern quadrant lights to old trailer single-bulb
dual-filament corner bulbs.  I am tiring of deleting one function 
when I tow and I know those litte $20US  black boxes have 50
cents of parts within.  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 09:38:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Collector/historical value

I own a 1979 Series III.

When I see coil converted Series III or a Series III with a new spring chassis I 
think that I should replace mine as it was repaired due to use.  When I have 
taken my truck for a chassis inspection and other repairs the guy at the garage 
told me that the chassis was repaired but by a professional person who had done 
the job well.  The truck handles very well on and off road and I have no 
regrets.

Now may I ask this question.  Have I made the right decision to repair the 
original chassis(which is very sound) or could I have invested in a new one?

Geoffrey
A bit confused.

Ron Franklin:
>If people on the list don't mind me starting a discussion which may be a 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 33 lines)]
>produced 1958 to 1961, and of those relatively few have the early features 
>this one does, (serial number 801 for 1959).  My plan is to do a coil 
conversion 
>with 
>a new frame, RR auto, LT230, and axles.  Even in the planning stages this 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>Ron Franklin
>Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:36:19 -0500 (EST)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: NYC Sightings

Hi all.

Hope everyone else is making better progress in preparing their Rover for
winter.  I'm working simultaneous projects (as always) and REGISTRATION is
driving me nuts -the DMV wants a previous title, but my truck was imported. 
Up untill now I haven't been able to get either a current registration nor
import documents from my importer.  Ah, well...

More importantly, I was in NY this last weekend and I saw (tons of Disco's
-mostly owned by people who would have been surprised to know that LR was
once NOT owned by BMW) a couple of great Rovers.  On Houston (street/ave) in
Brooklyn I saw a 110 -very nice looking, but no further indication of real
enthusiasm NY plates -anybody?  And a really, really nice looking 89'ish
(external door hinges, right?) RR -white with GB and Best 4x4xFar stickers.

Then on the ride home getting off the Mass Pike in Worcester there was a
very nice Limestone 88 with "71 Rover" on it's Montanna plate.

Chris
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional        
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:57:09 -500
Subject: Downeast

Tell me more about the downeast Maine rally.  When, origin, 
point-of-contact, etc....  Mark  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:14:32 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Checking a Rear axle

> How do I tell if it is the axle or diff without =
>taking the whole thing apart?
>No dice, man. Gotta take the whole thing apart anyway. If you MUST know before 
>you pull the diff, undo the cotter pin and castle nut at the end of the 

axle and
>yank it free.

Uh, I don't think that will work, David. You can't get an axle out without 
removing the driven member from the hub (well, you CAN, but it envolves some 
metal cutting or explosives). Just take the 6 bolts free from each side and 
slide them out. If both are in good shape, remove the diff. If one is 
broken, remove the diff to clean out the chips and check for damage. As 
David said, ya gotta take the whole thing apart.

JohnO

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:35:09 -0500
Subject: RE:Collector/historical value

On 19 Nov 96 at 9:38, Geoffrey Said wrote:

 the chassis was repaired but by a professional person who had done 
 the job well.  The truck handles very well on and off road and I have no 
 regrets.
 
 Now may I ask this question.  Have I made the right decision to repair the 
 original chassis(which is very sound) or could I have invested in a new one?
88888888888888888888888888888

If the job was done well and you are satisfied you have managed to avoid a 
lot of work and expense.  My 88 has it's original frame which required minor 
repairs when I got it, but is fine now and I wouldn't change it just for 
the sake of having a new one.  (especially in light of my recent 
reflections on the value of a vehicle with  character.)  If the frame was 
beyond repair or the repair was done badly you are wise to do a frame over.
Rgds,
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 12:50:05 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Checking a Rear axle

>> You can't get an axle out without 
>>removing the driven member from the hub (well, you CAN, but it envolves some 
>>metal cutting or explosives).

What prevents this?
to my recollection there aren't any other protrusions on the axle other than the
splines, which since they engage the splines on the drive member obviously would
go through...

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 12:58:37 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Collector/historical value

On 19 Nov 96 at 9:38, Geoffrey Said wrote:

 the chassis was repaired but by a professional person who had done 
 the job well.  The truck handles very well on and off road and I have no 
 regrets.
 
 Now may I ask this question.  Have I made the right decision to repair the 
 original chassis(which is very sound) or could I have invested in a new one?
88888888888888888888888888888

If the job was done well and you are satisfied you have managed to avoid a 
lot of work and expense.  My 88 has it's original frame which required minor 
repairs when I got it,   ....snip....  
 If the frame was 
beyond repair or the repair was done badly you are wise to do a frame over.

Yes, there are limits to what can be economically repaired on a frame. My frame 
needed new front horns, bulkhead and gas tank out riggers, major repairs to the 
second-to-rear xmember and rear frame rails, and the old rear x member cut off 
and reattached properly. All this in parts alone would have been more than the 
cost of my replacement frame which was $500 and is in perfect condiditon. Not to
mention that the old frame had already had all of these parts replaced once 
already. I could not have afforded a new frame and in this case would have been 
forced to do the repairs myself or pay lots of labor costs. Seeing as I have 0 
welding experience and no welder it would surely have been the latter of those 
two...
I also had to replace all 4 springs and shocks, and repair the bulkhead and 
rebuild the gearbox, so replacing the frame actually probably SAVED me some 
work, and money.  

Cheers
Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 19:15:08 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Back to the past

Hi All

	Have just got back from a weeks holiday in Malta. It's roverin' paradise 
over there !

Infact, there is all sorts of British hardware over there, preserved in the 
sunshine.

() = estimated numbers seen

LR's - S1 (2) S2/a (20-30) S3 (50+) Lightweight (4) no 101's
Ford - Angleboxes (some custom - yuk), Cortina Mk1/2/3, Escort 1/2 
Austin A35, 1100,
Riley Elf
Vauxhall Ventora, Viva,
Hillman Avenger (my 1st car incidentally), Hunter (no imps unfortunately)

I would suggest if you can't find that rare english car bit anymore, check out 
Malta !

Cheers, Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 13:31:49 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: stuff for sale in VA

"Spring" cleaning left over for sale cheap!

SIII 88" clutch driven plate, good condition, worn but still some meat left

SIII 88" clutch pressure plate, used, good condition

88" front spring shackles, new

left side bulkhead foot piece, new

front bumper used, ok condition

88" roofside, slight damage, straight enough to use but I had a better one. 
glass intact could use window track and needs seals

88" right side gas tank, needs repairs to use ,fair/poor condition

SIII lower dash, rusted through at bottom edge, vinyl good. no heater controls 
or top cover plate

Front Halfshaft bearings, new

88" Frame outriggers- both fuel tank, new, were on my truck from Sept. 95- 
Apr.96. Will need metal removed to work properly since they were cut off of my 
frame.

88" left side rear body outrigger- solid, surface rust

88" trans x-member some rust, mostly "naturally" oiled so ok, very minor dents 
and dings but straight

I have some bearings which came out of my gear box, (SIII) mainly:
 rear mainshaft
primary pinion
front mainshaft
front layshaft

they all seem to be in good nick

SIII Suffix A layshaft cluster
Ok, but reverse gear has some pitting. Other gears are not noticeably worn

3/4 synchro hub, worked, slightly worn

SII battery tray/air cleaner thing, perfect condition.

6 15" rims, w 4 BF Goodrich trailmaker poly tires in good/very good condition, 
one of them is worn a little bit more on the out side edge because it ran at 
slightly low pressure due to bad valve (valve still needs to be replaced) and 
one very good condition 7.00x15 mud tire, and one very worn but usable 7.00??x15
tire.
All tires are Bias ply...

SIII Antiburst style door latch w/ lock, dont have key (Eric Z, can you help 
here?)

Licensce palte holder thing...

Starter solenoid, works, good condition.

that's it, parts are in Arlington VA, name your price...
Dave B.
dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
202-488-6588

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 13:40:19 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: SPOT Game

Yesterday i posted a question...

>>A friends 88 has, for the entire 4 years he's owned it, had a 5/16" gap 
>>between 
>>one of the front brake drums and its backing plate. 

>>.snip...

>>Can you guess what the problem was?

3 people replied, two of them guessed wrongly that it was a NADA hub, and the 
3rd person guessed almost right that the backing plate wwas on backwards (come 
now, get real :-))

Horrible Mention goes to the 3rd guesser, Eric Zipkin...for being in the near 
vicinity...

the answer: 

The backing plate was installed underneath the stub axle. since the hub will 
noly go so far onto the stub axle, thismade the backing plate too far away for 
the drum to "reach" it.

Now back to your boring lives...:)

Dave B.
Eric you may claim your prize this weekend. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:51:46 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: d90 axle vents on a siia...

At 10:35 AM 11/19/96 -0500, Bobeck, David R. wrote:
;
>>My rear seals always leaked until I followed some advice from Scotty.  He
>>suggested RTV along the splined edges of the felt seal and along the
;>sealing area of the dust cover.
>I always liked the fact that the felt seal leaks a little, it seems to let oil
>leach into the wheel bearings...brilliant design, Id say. Are you filling your
;hubs with oil or packing the bearings with grease? I usually pack mine if Im
>taking them out for something, but the dont seem to need it. I figure there's
>a
;reason why there's a hole into the hub from outside. But your seals better be
>damn good if you're putting oil in the hub.
;
ummm.... The felt seals go on the outside end of the axles, outside the
bearings.  They do not go into the axle housing between the housing and the
bearings.  This section is open allowing oil to flow to the rear bearings.
The seal's puropose is to seal in the oil that may try to eacape the rear
assy along the spline joint.

>>>On the front, the seal has to be good, the ring the seal rides on needs to
>be like new, and the the seal and ring needs to be exactly concentric.
;
>I guess if the stub axle was bent, this could be a problem. Anyone ever seen
>that happen?
;
I think the stub axle is too short to bend given the thickness of the shaft
and material it's made of.  However, I did snap one off at the base once.
Steering was a bit lose.  The 'U' joint knuckle rubbing against the inside
of the stub axle base was the only thing keeping the front wheel & axle on
the car.

Broke a rear spring shackle once too... and later ripped out a set of 'U'
bolts rock crawling near Death Valley.  The rear swayed a LOT with the rear
shackle broken.  The right rear corner of my 109 sat very low when it was
freed of the axle connection.

Land Rover parts suppliers love me.

;>>Some cars have shim spacers on steering ball pins to center the hub.
>But not Land Rovers. The shims only affect the depth, and hence the preload of
>the pins. Your steering ball could be hanging from a tree limb and the hub
>would
>still be centered...
;
Sigh... You are right.  The hub is centered to the stub axle via the inner
and outer wheel bearings.  The axle half shaft is centered in the housing
by  a half shaft bearing.  I'll chalk this up to jet lag and staying up for
24 hours coming back from the UK.  Ya thats it...jet lag...oops

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 13:50:18 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Back to the past

Did you check out Geoffrey Said's diesel 2-alpha ?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:59:42 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Checking a Rear axle

>to my recollection there aren't any other protrusions on the axle other 
than the
>splines, which since they engage the splines on the drive member obviously 
would
>go through...

The splines have a radial step machined into them. When the nut is tightened 
down, the step is what prevents the axle from just pulling through the 
driven member. The step is only about .050 high or so. I hope this is clear. 
A side note: it's my understanding that the axle nuts' purpose is to 
compress the seal and hold everything in place, not to resist torque.  If 
the axle can be turned at all in the splines, both probably need replacing. 
Tightening the nut will not help, the parts are worn out. BP had good prices 
on shiney new driven members that precisely fit new axles when mine wore out 
(I thought I'd broken another axle, but had only stripped out the driven 
member splines after at least 3 axles and almost 400,000 miles). For the 
seal, I wrapped teflon tape around the protruberance on the back side of the 
driven member so it would be trapped and compressed between the hub and 
member. It has held up to two removals since and the only (trivial) leak is 
through the one bolt that communicates to the inside.

'hope this helps.
JohnO
'64 109, diesel, 465,000 miles on the few remaining original parts (I think 
the axle housings are also original)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 14:02:58 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[4]: d90 axle vents on a siia...

;
ummm.... The felt seals go on the outside end of the axles, outside the
bearings.  They do not go into the axle housing between the housing and the
bearings.  This section is open allowing oil to flow to the rear bearings.
The seal's puropose is to seal in the oil that may try to eacape the rear
assy along the spline joint.

yeah, I know wher ethey go, but dindn't think it all the way through...oops, 
damn jet lag! :)

>>>Land Rover parts suppliers love me.

Well, at least you're having fun!

Cheers

Dave B.

BTW, I have 2 spare stub axles...want 'em?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:17:18 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: keyless entry antenna & antifreeze

1. Just made an appointment for some more warranty service. Getting a
significant coolant anti-freeze odor after parking. No visible leaks or
drips. I'm thinking leaky head gasket? Opinions?

2. Was told by dealer that new long range keyless entry antenna does not
apply to '94 disco's. Anyone hear different?

3. I've been complaining about drive line clunk for some time now. I was
always told that it was just the way LR's were. Interesting to see the
service bulletin.

- Paul.
'94 NAS Disco V8i

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:21:05 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Don Scott's car is famous!

Don Scott may be too shy to mention this to the list but his car is the
subject of a two page writup (108-109) in the December '96 issue of Land
Rover World.  This beast has a Discovery frame, body parts from a shortened
109 and defender and is powered by a Jag V12.

This is the car that Don gave me a ride to Billing it last July.  I actualy
got to ride in a famous car :*)  Its super to see cars belonging to list
members in magazines.

Umm So Don have you EVER washed the engine bay?

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 14:48:11 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Checking a Rear axle

The splines have a radial step machined into them.

I guess that makes sense... otherwise the nut would be redundant/useless.
Silly me...

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:19:54 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Oh Baby!

We Just had a son!...Named him Luke (my name's not Darth, I've got no
brother Jesse (of Dukes of Hazard fame), and honest Luke isn't short for
Lucas......)He's eagerly awaiting his first adventure in our
dormobile.....Hmmm new name needed, The "inducer" is no longer
appropriate.....A local Question.. When is the Pink panther "event?" Has it
been already? I emailed Jim Pappas to no evail....I'm talking about the open
house at the Landrover place in Dedham or Norwood or something Mass.(I think
that's where it is...I don't get out much)

Spoke briefly with a D110 owner in Concord, MA the other evening....He said
it leaks just like his series vehicle...I think we were talking about water
rather than lubes...Nonetheless I was surprised...Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Running out of fuel.
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 96 07:29:00 EST

 <grin> sorry, Rich but you have to see the funny side of your story about 
running out of petrol.  I have also had the problem of the the pop & 
splutter due to low fuel whilst going up hills.  Ontwo occasions I've been 
able to do a quick u-turn and then reverse up the hill.  Reason.  The fuel 
pick up position in that particular vehicle was more to the front of the 
tank (it wasn't a LR).

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:27:44 -500
Subject: Re: keyless entry antenna & antifreeze

Paul,
Antifreeze smell?  How's your heater core?  M

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 15:42:06 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: LUKE!

     Rob M. - Concord
     
     Congratulations!!  Hope mother and baby are well.  I still like the 
     name "Inducer" though.   Enjoy fatherhood -
     
     RFS - Acton, MA
     rscholl@lib.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 13:12:32 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Running out of fuel. NO Land Rover Content!

Pardon the no Land Rover content.....

When I moved out to Seattle in 1983, I bought a 1955 Chevy. On my first
night at work, it 'died' while going up the hospital's steep driveway. I
was able to get off to the side and realized that the carb. wasn't getting
fuel. My diagnosis: fuel pump failure. I left it there overnight and
with tools spread all around the hospital entrance, and me getting 
all greasy on the hospital side walk, replaced the fuel pump the next
morning. I added some gas to the tank for good measure and it started
right up.

The old fuel pump was rather intricate compared to the
one-piece-stamped-together replacement: many screws, a couple of springs
and a leather (?) diaphragm, and it seemed to generate some vacuum and
pressure.                                              ^^^^

Some months later, at a meeting of the Classic Chevy Club, I learned that
when the gas guage was on the white dot above the "E" that the gas tank
was empty.....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 18:35:34 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: RE: LR in Four Wheeler

Hi all - this is a begging letter.
Would anyone be prepared to send me a copy of that December issue? No one stocks 
it here. I would of course reimburse cost and postage.
Thanks in advance,
Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:48:15 -0800
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: How to make it snow in Seattle

We just had 9 inches of snow (measured on our back deck) dumped in the
Seattle area, the first time in the 17 years I've lived here that it's
snowed down this low this early.  The reason it snowed is that yesterday I
removed the front calipers from our Range Rover to have them rebuilt (one
of the pistons was beginning to seep fluid).  The start of the snow
coincided almost to the minute from when I unbolted the second caliper.  So
if you want it to snow in your area, put your Rover up on blocks.

Fortunately, I had my secret weapon was primed and ready- my Series III.  I
admit it was gratifying to drive it to work past all the cars, mini-vans,
and even 4wd pickups that were in the ditch, all of them probably driven by
people who on other days roar up behind you, tailgate, flash their lights,
and generally make it known they think you are the scum of the earth for
driving a vehicle that's slower than theirs.  But rather than sink to their
level, I decided to be nice.  So every time I came upon a stranded driver
standing forelornly in the snow beside a hopelessly mired vehicle, I made
sure I slid open my window and gave them a friendly wave as I drove by.

C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:56:32 +0800
From: James Mercer <james@mips.cs.murdoch.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Bush Rangies

Hi Steve, 
 
> The Bush rangie is available in the UK as a Dakkar (SP). It's
> a kit car here - home build or the makers will do it for a
> small (?????) fee.
 
I think that it is the other way around :) - the Bush Rangie started
as a Dakar and has evolved from there.

John Davis noticed the number of older 2 door Range Rovers that were OK 
mechanically, but the body was stuffed.  He spoke to the people
that make the Dakar, told them he wanted to make them in Oz, and
bought 6 kits.  He has since made many modifications to the original
design, from simple things like nicer interior through to restyling and
changing 
the front end to allow an air conditioner to be fitted.

Currently the Bush Rangie is sold as a complete, fully reconditioned
vehicle, with a 12 month warrenty.   I am not sure if it is done as a
kit... Might have look into that :)

Later,
James. 
 
+-------------------------------------+-------------------------------+
|James Mercer                         | Ph:  +61 9 360 2790           |
|Professional Officer                 | Fax: +61 9 360 2941           |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
|South St, Murdoch         | Email: james@cs.murdoch.edu.au           |
|Perth, Western Australia  | WWW: http://www.cs.murdoch.edu.au/~james
+--------------------------+------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 23:41:00 -0500
From: Brad F Worls <bworls@ovnet.com>
Subject: Re: d90 axle vents on a siia...

Ray,
   I was pondering your question and remembered what i did before.  I
may be talking out of the other side of my hat but here goes.  I used to
run an early ford bronco.  Lots of stream and muck running later I
fouled both axels.  Neither had breather hoses and I was too dumb to
notice.  After repairs I bought about $8.00 usd worth of vaccume hose
and a couple of rubber gromets.  Ran both hoses to the left side rear
fender just behind the striker plate.  Drilled a hole in the flor boadr
and installed the grommets.  Pushed the two hoses through and sealed the
grommet with some silicone.  Secured both with nylon zip ties and forgot
about them.  Never had any water problems after that.  I just figured if
the water got my a** wet I had more problems than water in the axle. 
	Just my two cents,
		Brad
bworls@ovnet.com

------------------------------

From: "jean gruneberg" <grunberg@iafrica.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:04:17 +0200
Subject: Re: keys and sterring locks

From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>

" Everything was fine until I heard the dull click.  What was 
that,.... with utter horror, realization washes over me.  The
steering locked. ....."

I once had the misfortune of having to drive an army serIII diesel 
from Pretoria to Messina (aboy 500km) mainly for my sins of having 
put a conrod thru the block on a series 2 on the same route the 
previous day!!.  Normally a long way, but really far in a diesel so I 
had lots of time to see the ingenuity of army mechanics.  The vehicle 
in question had a second ignition key on the dash, fine no problem, 
but somewhere around Pietersburg (300 km) I started to wonder why the 
origional ignition switch still had a key in?

So removed the key and tossed it into the dash.  Arrive at offramp to 
the town, continue at 60 kh/h and start to turn....click...AAAARRRGH.

Do you know how much cr*p collects in a rover dash, and you have 
seconds to find the key, and get it into the ignition, and wiggle the 
steering to disengage the lock......  Anyway stopped on the outside 
shoulder.

Actually I thaught I was pretty fortunate, my usual luck would have 
me toss the key out the window!

Regards
Jean
_______________________________________________________
Jean Andre Gruneberg

ph +27 (0)31 295 252
c-ph +27 (0)82 551 8433
fax +27 (0)31 3003030
e-mail grunberg@iafrica.com    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 11:10:52 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Looking for series I gear part number

Hi all

Some guys around here want to do a conversion on their series III transfer
boxes, to give 25% higher hi range, while keeping lo range the same. To do
this they need the intermediate gear from a "Series I Sussex" gearbox.

I'm not familiar with Series Is at all, and I don't have a clue as to what a
"Sussex" gearbox is. Does anyone know about this animal? And what would the
part number for that gear be?

Thanks

Wouter

--
Wouter de Waal ZS1KE     GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W
Argo 505 / FT200       N+++>++ !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t
Amateur Homebrewer 5? X? R? tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*)
                                                      Perseverance my son,
'72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine                        it's a   Land/
Series II LR SW - see http://www.aztec.co.za/users/wrm            /Rover

I live in a free country and have all the permits to prove it - Wayne Franz

------------------------------

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