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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 08:10:54 -0500
Subject: Re: LR security...

I guess we're lucky here in Vermont, which is ranked 50th for car theft in
the US. I usually leave the keys in the ignition of 'Nicky', that way I'll
know where they are! It's very rural here, and I might have the creakiest
door hinge around, besides, it's not that easy to start and either requires
hand primping at the pump or a lot of cranking. If I heard any activity, I'd
just let the Rottweiler and Airedale out with 'orders' and go back to sleep.
During my work day, I tend to leave the keys in as well, in case anyone might
have to move it. Now that I think of it, the only time I do remove the keys
is when we go off in it on vacation or something...
And an abrieviated joke:
..............."Oh, and the keys to the Land-Rover, we just leave them in it,
that way we'll know where they are. Oops! except in August, and then we
always keep it well locked!"
"But why do you lock it in August?"
"Well, if we don't, someone may fill it with zuccinis!"
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 14:18:13 +0001
Subject: Re: UK LH/RH Travel...

> From:          "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>

> Does anyone know of a clock which runs  backwards.  There are times 
> I wish I could make it so, but that's another story.  

There is a clock that runs backwards.

Here in Denmark we make funny stories about Aarhusians (people 
from the city of Aarhus). I think it is very common in every country 
to make jokes about people from a certain area. So, here you can buy 
an Aarhus clock which runs backwards. The digits are printed 
backwards as well. The clock is often found in bars where slightly 
intoxicated customers are trying to tell whether it's time to go home 
and face the Home Guard Command.

LR content?....hmmm...bars??
Well,- it's Sunday and the traffic is low.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 09:37:45 -0500
Subject: Diesel manifold

Bill Adams writes that he needs a manifold for his diesel,  assuming that it
is the exhaust,  I have several 2-litre, and 2 1/4  series 2a types. No
series 3 type  which the pipe drops down. If you still need it, let me
know......d.b.

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 10:42:27 -0500
Subject: Bothersome V8 

Hello all. 
I have a V8 playing up and although I have a few ideas of my own I would
appreciate any input before I start pulling things apart and buying spares.

The engine is an 84 RR spec V8 fitted with standard twin Stromberg carbs. The
only modification being  a Luminition electronic ignition kit, and a vacuum
line running through the distributor body to remove moisture. It has run
perfectly for three years in this form.

The problem is two fold but I suspect only one fault. 
1. When ticking over whilst the choke is on, when cold, the engine increases
and decreases revs in a steady rhythmic pattern.
2. When running at low throttle openings in any gear the engine will
occasionally die only to pick up again immediately when I touch the throttle
Bye the way the engine is still in the RR chassis but for four years has been
surrounded by Lightweight body panels. Making what I believe to be the
ultimate Land Rover.

Mike Rogers ( Range Rover / Lightweight Hybrid )

	

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:49:14 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Mounting a horse in ancient Greece

Mike Rooth wrote:

:just confuse matters,if anyone has read Vernam's "Man on Horseback"
:(Tod?)back in the days of ancient Greece or whatever,a lancer had
:a loop of leather about halfway up the lance shaft.To mount(bareback)
:he stood on the *right* side of the horse,stuck his lance butt in the
:ground,alongside the horses flank,put his *right* foot in the loop,
:swung his left over the horse....which if mine is anything
:to go by would by then have moved,thus depositing the unfortunate
:squaddie flat on his face in the mud!

This was before the stirrup was invented, which gave the inventors (the 
Mongols) a huge advantage over the low-tech west. 

Now let's see - L-R content? Elementary: The Greek horses apparently were 
designed with their drivers seat on the right, while later horses had them 
on the left. No center-steering models like the first L-R prototype...
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:49:06 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Collector/Historical Value

Ron Franklin wanted to know what people think about changing reasonably 
original vehicles (a Series II in his case) around. Here's what I think:

I just came back from visiting an old man in the countryside who has a 1957 
88" Diesel that he is trying to sell. The car has had two owners, he is the 
second, and has been in a garage since 1974. For the last few years, he has 
tried to improve it, but after a bad heart attack this summer he decided to 
stop this activity, and now he is trying to sell.

The car (and its history) makes your heart bleed. Imagine a relatively rare 
and desirable vehicle, with original good engine and gearbox, little 
superficial rust on chassis, good springs, very little play in the steering, 
the original Diesel decal on the grill. The current owner got it without any 
changes. Imagine him spraying the body silver and the hard top red, without 
the necessary skills (he thought it was negligent to leave some parts just 
galvanized and sprayed over them, too). Imagine him taking out the original 
seats (green vinyl, in this case) and recovering them in tasteful red cloth. 
Imagine upholstering doors and side walls with black leatherette covering 
and armrests from a car at the height of the armpits. Imagine a dashboard 
made from 12 mm fibreboard, with the original instruments and some 
additional stuff set into the new dash. Imagine a gearlever that would not 
clear the new dashboard and was replaced by a sportsy four-inch long lever 
with a leather gaiter. Imagine a Series One Land-Rover with car bumpers, 
both front and rear!

The thing looks terrible. It is pretty useless as a car, since there are 
many much better engines with much better gearboxes in much better bodies 
around; and it is useless as a collectors item. The old man wanted about 
5,000 USD for the car; I told him he would be lucky to get 1,500. It is 
really only good as a parts car, since the engine, gearbox and frame are 
still in good shape. He felt very bad about it since he had spent a lot of 
money and work on it and was facing a loss.

Why do you want to improve an old and collectible vehicle? 
- It will still never be as good as a newer or new one.
- You won't know what it really was like to use it.
- Your action will reduce our heritage.
- It will also reduce the value of the vehicle.
Would you consider improving a van Gogh picture of a wheatfield by having a 
tractor painted in? Would you consider improving a colonial house with 
aluminum siding? 

I would leave it alone. If you want to play mechanic with a Land-Rover, get 
something relatively common and indifferent like a late Series III (although 
they will be rare in ten or fifteen years, too), or better something in 
really bad shape. Otherwise, if you have to make any changes, try to keep 
them reversible, document them, and keep whatever you remove.

I am glad you asked, hope I was not too harsh. Just my two bits, anyway!
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 11:27:13 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Collector/historical value

NateDunsmore wrote:
> Ron Franklin wrote:
> > The problem my conscience is encountering is with the next planned project,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
> 88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
> dunsmo19@mail.idt.net

Just my 2 cents worth, but a series II engine is almost impossible to get 
parts for now so why not go ahead and modify it just to keep it on the 
road.  You can always put a IIA engine in later if you want something a 
bit more stock as it were.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:43:23 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Clockwise

Amazing, the things we discuss on this list!
David M. Schwarz wrote:
>Have any of you considered the origin of "clockwise?"  I believe it relates
>back to Sundials in the Northern Hemisphere.  
:With North always at twelve O'clock, local apparent noon is the time, at the
>sundial, at which a due south sun casts a due north shadow.  The shadow is
>cast in the west from an easterly sun in the morning, and the shadow, as the
:sun moves from east to south to west, moves in a clockwise direction from
>west to north to east. The first mechanical clockmaker, if he intended the
>movement of the hands to duplicate what theretofore was only a function of
:the sun and the rotation of the earth, I believe designed the hands to move
>in the direction all were familiar with, and associated with, the
>advancement of time.  And thus was born the convention of clock hand
:rotation fairly uniformly followed. Does anyone know of a clock which runs
>backwards.  There are times I wish I could make it so, but that's another
>story.  

Great theory - except that in the northern hemisphere the shadow moves 
counterclockwise, of course, from the left side to the lower side to the 
right side. The sun moves clockwise. Maybe clocks were invented in the 
southern hemisphere?

Actually I think clock hands turn in the direction they do turn in in order 
to allow boy scouts to find South without a compass!

As for clocks running backwards: the clock on the Jewish town hall in Prague 
moves - err - let's say its hands move in the same direction that a person 
who knows about these things would turn a wrench in order to loosen most, 
but not all, bolts or nuts on a Land-Rover, said direction also often being 
referred to as counter-clockwise, which would, however, be clockwise in the 
Jewish town in Prague. So maybe it is safer to stick with:
Righty - tighty,
Lefty - loosy.

>To those of you who couldn't care less, I apologize.  David M. Schwarz,
>dschwarz@pipeline.com

Being interested in these things means never having to say you are sorry ;>)
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:49:37 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD with L-R content

Dear all, over the weekend my wife and I spent some time researching this 
problem a little more, and we came up with this interesting result:

Everything that has been said so far has been wrong.

Originally, people were ambidextrous. There was no such thing as being 
right- handed or left-handed. One proof: The Hebrew and the Arabic alphabet 
are more suitable for southpaws, while the Greek and Roman alphabets are 
better for right-handed people; since all these peoples lived close together 
around the Mediterranean, there could not have been any difference in 
handedness, just a difference in the choice that was made. The Chinese 
avoided any discrimination by writing from the top down. There being little 
traffic, there was also no traffic rules. However, as civilisation 
increased, so did trade, and as trade increased, so did traffic. Since there 
were a lot of accidents in the absence of rules, the GATT conference decided 
to regulate traffic. The subcommittee that was formed to come up with a 
proposal studied the question for about sixteen years and then recommended 
that "henceforth all traffic should move on the right side of the road", 
arguing that there could be no doubt that the right side was the right side, 
right? The conference was not able to follow the recommendation, however, 
since the Picts vetoed it and threatened to block any further decision if 
driving on the left was not adopted universally (they had just invested 
heavily in a lot of traffic roundabouts and did not want to change all the 
markings on the ground - you can still see the remains of one of these 
roundabouts in Stonehenge). So left it was from then on.

The new traffic rules put a lot of evolutionary pressure on people, since 
now men who were good with their right hand could defend themselves better 
with their clubs or swords or battleaxes. Right-handed men thus had a higher 
survival rate and also became heroes, both of which improved their chances 
of passing on their genes. (Charles Darwin was actually planning to include 
this fact in The Origin of Species, but his publisher pointed out that the 
space could be better used for pictures, since pictures sold books.) Anyway, 
you can see that it was not the desire to be able to use the right arm 
effectively that forced traffic to the left-hand side, but that the GATT 
rules came first and right-handedness came later.

As you all know, GATT went through a crisis in the 18th century, and the 
French introduced their own rules under the motto Dieu et mon Droit (which 
can be translated as My Divine Privilege to Drive on the Right). As usual, 
some countries followed the new standard, some followed the old standard and 
some changed sides every few decades. 

Land-Rover originally tried to avoid all controversy by building two 
prototypes with centre steering that were actually meant to drive in the 
middle of the road; after a rather embarrassing, though unforeseen, accident 
in the course of the first road trials, which resulted in the destruction of 
both prototypes, the idea was dropped. The whole affair was hushed up, which 
explains why this is probably the first time you heard about there being 
*two* centre-steer prototypes.

If there are any more questions, please let me know. Good Land-Rovering!
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 15:51:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter replacement?

Take your starter to a local generator  or small motor shop. They will
rebuild it for about $100.
Alex Maiolo
69 IIA
89 Rangie

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 16:59:14 -0500
Subject: SII engine parts (was Collector/historical value)

> Just my 2 cents worth, but a series II engine is almost impossible to get 
>  parts for now so why not go ahead and modify it just to keep it on the 
>  road.  You can always put a IIA engine in later if you want something a 
>  bit more stock as it were.

CORRECTION for SII 2.25 petol engines: Most parts are the same as or
replaceable by SIIA/SIII parts. Some of the unique SII engine are more
difficult to find (main & rod bearings excepted which are becoming very
difficult to find). You do need a parts book or two, do some searching and
ocassionally be prepared to order from the UK.

The significant unique SII parts are:
crank, rods, main and rod bearings (getting very scarce)
front cover (available but when does it need replacing?)
rocker arm shafts (RN has in catalog for less than SIIA/III parts)
exhaust manifold and front pipe (SIIA/III parts are direct bolt on)
thermostat and housing (still available from PA Blanchard, or update with
thermostat and housing from SIIA/SIII)
waterpump (available but expensive, or rebuild with same internal parts as
SIIA/SIII)
block casting (replace with what you can find/afford if cracked, etc)
head casting (replace if cracked, etc.)

Otherwise the SII petrol engines are the same as early SIIA engines, and no
more difficult to find than early SIIA parts. If anyone is searching for SII
parts I'll be glad to swap information, and possibly parts if I have extras.

There is absolutely no need to replace a SII petrol engine "just to keep it
on the road" unless the engine is otherwise dead. This is not justification
for a conversion. If ready parts availability is always a must, I suggest a
SIII, which is the only Series LR appears to be somewhat committed to
supporting.

Regards,
David Cockey
'60 SII PU
'60 SII SW

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 17:10:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Collector/Historical Value

Peter tells a sad tale of a SI:
> The car (and its history) makes your heart bleed. Imagine a relatively rare

>  and desirable vehicle, with original good engine and gearbox, little 
>  superficial rust on chassis, good springs, very little play in the
steering, 
>  the original Diesel decal on the grill. The current owner got it without
any  
>  changes.....

Our SII Pickup was purchased from the second owner, who was the son of
original dealer. Again he got it in complete, original condition with the
original hardtop and then started tinkering. Not nearly as bad as Peter
describes but still annoying. He sold the hardtop and bolted on a pickup cab.
Okay, but then mounted two lights from RN on the roof crooked. Completely
repainted with NH National Guard olive drab. Various accessories mounted,
usually crooked and frequently with holes through trim. Actually not that bad
but annoying to the third owner. Enough complaining, we bought it that way
and it just increases the challenge to set it right.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Mounting a horse in ancient Greece
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 15:25:00 -0700 (MST)

: Now let's see - L-R content? Elementary: The Greek horses apparently were 
: designed with their drivers seat on the right, while later horses had them 
: on the left. No center-steering models like the first L-R prototype...

Unlike LR which is responsible for modern civilisation as we know it, a 
certain Greek horse was known for wiping out a whole civilisation.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:02:07 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: EURO-bo**ocks

Someone started a thread a few weeks ago about som European proposal,
strongly lobbied by German car manufacturers, to ban replacement parts
and fit use-once bolts whose heads break off to prevent replacement.

Can anyone remember where this story started? Does anyone have
access/address/copy of relevant euro-proposal?

A friend of mine, also a tv-producer, produces a danish motor vehicle
magazine programme and he is interested in this story - can anyone help?

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 16:43:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: winch question

At 09:51 AM 11/16/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Could someone who has an electric winch on a series Rover tell me what they
>needed to do to their electrical system to capacitate for it?  Thanks.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Belfast, Maine
>`69 SWB HT
I'm running a warn 9000 on the stock system in my 1982 109 with the addition
of a 900 CCA batt.  I have not had any problems but an up graded alt and
wiring wouldn't be bad ideas.

Andrew Howton
Sparwood, B.C.
(604) 425-0598

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:36:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken Axles

I enjoyed this weekend's Solaros (Southern Land Rover Society) trail ride but
would have enjoyed it more if my '73 Series III had four wheel drive for the
entire ride.  It is somewhat embarrasing to be used for recovery practice for
much of the afternoon.  I suppose it is a feature of an ARB locking rear diff
that after one breaks an axle one immediately snaps the other as all the
torque is transfered to it.  The end result - two rear axles broken just
inward of the flanges, rear wheel bearings trashed by grinding up the debris.
 The good news - non of the debris seems to have made it to the diff.  
What's also somewhat frustrating is that these were "new" axles, purchased
about 3000 miles ago from AEW Paddock.  I still have the axles that came with
the truck, which I had replaced as a precaution.  I guess I'll put them back
in now.   I wonder though if there is a source for stronger axles for this
truck.  I realize they are the driveline "fuse" and designed to "blow", but
I'd rather they didn't so quickly and easily!
Cheers,
   erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
1973 Ser.  III

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 21:02:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken Axles

Erik has been testing axle shafts:
> What's also somewhat frustrating is that these were "new" axles, purchased
>  about 3000 miles ago from AEW Paddock.  I still have the axles that came 
> with
>  the truck, which I had replaced as a precaution.  I guess I'll put them
back
>  in now.   I wonder though if there is a source for stronger axles for this
>  truck.

Any idea if the AEW Paddock axles were LR or aftermarket? British Northwest
has listed "Toughened Genuine Rover" axles in the past. Presumably some sort
of heat treatment and/or shot peenning.

David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: LRMW Open House Report
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 08:46:49 -0500

Bob:

Thanks for the report. I couldn't have said it better, so I won't!!

BTW, as far as MFR costs to build a vehicle, ready for this?? The =
Defender is BY FAR the MOST EXPENSIVE vehicle for LR to build. This =
(unfortunately) is one of the reasons LR has wanted to kill it off for =
years. Market pressure hasn't allowed it - but now Federal pressure is.

Remember, the Defender (and Series ancestors) were/are almost entirely =
HAND-ASSEMBLED. No subsystems of the D90 are or lend themselves to =
automated assembly. Therefore (my numbers are a little rusty here) the =
average Defender requires almost 70 man-hours of labor to assemble, a =
Disco in the high forties, and the most efficient (currently) model to =
build is the new style Range Rover - which has a high content of =
automated assembly!!

Great to see you guys!!

Cheers
Jim

----------
From:  Robert A. Virzi[SMTP:rvirzi@gte.com]
Sent:  Friday, November 15, 1996 9:09 AM
Subject:  LRMW Open House Report

I attended last night's LR MetroWest (Boston) open house.  The dealer
invited a bunch of people in to have some wine and food (I think this is
what they call the Land Rover Experience) and drool over the new models.
The BSROA was solidly represented, and we may have drummed up a few new
members.  Most notable to me regarding attendees was, unlike last year's
event, jeans outnumbered suits 3:1.  I heard lots of snippets of
conversation about offroading, and not a single mention of =
malls/shopping
carts/Aspen.  I hope this was not lost on the dealership management.
Perhaps next year a keg of Guiness will be served?

The clear and away highlight of the night was the coming out of Jim =
Pappas'
Pink Panther!  Stole the show from all the new rangies and what-not.  =
This
beast is absolutely amazing.  If I get this right, it is built on a IIa =
109
chassis, but it looks HUGE!  Dual gun mounts (30mm?).  Smoke grenade
launchers front and rear.  180 gallon fuel capacity.  Wow! One fillup =
sets
you back $250 (do you get a volume discount?) but lets you drive from
Boston to Chicago non-stop.  Got tailgater problems?  A quick burst from
the rear facing 30mm should back'em off.  Jim sez the vehicle will be on
some sort of display at the dealer on a permanent basis.  Kind of =
mingling
with the D90s and rangies in the used car section.  Pretty radical.  I =
can
hardly wait for my next service visit (scheduled or not).

Someone asked about the D90 SW.  They had at least one white one in the
showroom.  Automatic, no-air, 4 jump seats in rear, etc.  I think list =
was
around US$34k.  They also had a few used D90 around, and I spoke to at
least 2 people considering trading in (or selling) their '94 and '95 =
sticks
for the auto.

Others have reported on the upgraded Disco.  Wood trim, electric seats,
garage door opener, inside - new (ugly) wheels, outside.  About the same
price as the d90 when comparably equipped.  Sure looks more expensive to
build, even though it probably isn't.

Sorry for rambling on.  It was a fun evening and sure got me thinking =
about
the next rover I want!              -Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. =3D=3D=3D
  +1(617)466-2881                            =3D=3D=3D Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: "Alec Diamond" <alec@telmar.co.za>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 08:52:27 +0200
Subject: Fitting spots to a 110 Defender

Hi All

A question for those auto-electricians.

I have fitted 4 spot lights to my 110 by taking a 2 mm electric wire through an inline fuse to a relay 
and then up to the spots where the wire has been split to feed each spot.

The spot currently have 55 watt bulbs but I am going to be uping this to 100 watt bulbs.

1) What size fuse should I be using.
2) how do I measure the ampage.

If I have a multi meter does one bridge the connection and measure the current that flows?

The relay that I have put in has a 30 amp rating.  The spot burned for about 10 minutes while 
I was aligning them then went dead.  Upon investigation I found that the plastic housing 
around the one side of the connector of the inline fuse holder has melted sightly and covered 
the the connector effectively insulating the fuse from the connector on the one side.

Is the inline fuse not of the correct rating or does there seem to be some other problem?

Regards from Sunny South Africa

Alec

===================================================================================
 #======---#           Alec Diamond        (If its worth doing its worth
 |____|__|__\___       alec@telmar.co.za          SCUBA diving for)
||  _ \  |   |_ |}     Tel +27 11 883 1337
 "-(_)"""""""(_)"      Sunny South Africa
----^^^^^---^^^^---^^^^-^-^--^--^--^^----------------------------------------\\\\\\
200 TDI Defender

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: UK LH/RH Travel...
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 8:54:35 GMT

> Have any of you considered the origin of "clockwise?"  I believe it relates
> back to Sundials in the Northern Hemisphere.  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> the sun and the rotation of the earth, I believe designed the hands to move
> in the direction all were familiar with, and associated with, the
> advancement of time.  And thus was born the convention of clock hand

Would make sense.

> rotation fairly uniformly followed. Does anyone know of a clock which runs
> backwards.  There are times I wish I could make it so, but that's another
> story.  

Yes, I've often fancied having one. Most electric mechanisms you can buy,
don't have axles on the back (ie. you could just mount the mechanism
backwards). I have seen backward ones though. I guess Novelty Shops sell
them.

So why do screws have a clockwise thread, then? [vaguely LRO-content!]

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 10:32:52 GMT
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: front differential nut

>   And here is where I'm stuck - I can't unscrew the nut that is on 
>the way to removing the connecting rotating plate to access the oil 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>retainer to changed it.  I've taken the little safety clip that goes into 
>the perfuration in the nut and screw.
The best way to proceed is to make a tool to hold the pinion flange; i.e.
the bit the propellor shaft universal joint bolts to. This is just a flat
bar with two holes drilled at one end so that you can temporarily bolt it to
the flange, and use it as a lever to brace against the force of you trying
to undo the pinion nut. With the tool in place, all your energies will go
into turning the nut, rather than taking up all the backlash in the diff and
rolling the Rover around. You may need to remove some metal between the
holes, so that you can still get a socket onto the pinion nut.
Crap ascii art follows:
    ___________________________
    | o /----\ o____________________| 

There is a pukka Land Rover tool for the job, but I imagine it's expensive
to buy, unless you could borrow one from a garage. The tool will fit all the
flanges in your drive train, so you can use it to change gearbox output
shaft seals as well as the front and rear diff seals.

Tom

________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D.I. Stevenson			gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Project			Tel: 01475 530581
University Marine Biological Station, Millport	Fax: 01475 530601
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG		http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Fitting spots to a 110 Defender
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 13:19:39 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Alec Diamond[SMTP:alec@telmar.co.za] wrote:
I have fitted 4 spot lights to my 110 by taking a 2 mm electric wire through an inline fuse to a relay 
and then up to the spots where the wire has been split to feed each spot.

The spot currently have 55 watt bulbs but I am going to be uping this to 100 watt bulbs.

1) What size fuse should I be using.

If You are useing 12V (most common), calculate like this:
W/V=A;     55/12= 4,58 ~5A ;   100/12= 8,33~ 9A
This is for each bulp. You connected 4, that gives as 
minimum 20A if You use 55W.
I would sugest, You split the installation, use 2 relays, 
in a way, so that You can switch on the 2 outer or the 2 
inner lamps independant. If You want to use inline fuses, 
use 1 for each lamp. the small plastic caps for inline-fuses 
donot like large ammounts of power. It also makes error 
tracing easyer, because You only have one wire and lamp to 
concerne about when a fuse blows.For wires, count together 
all the current that can flow, fuse to lamp 8 or 12A, from 
relay to fuse 2 times8or12A = 16 or 24A
Use following size: 6 A  1,0 sqr mm
                   10 A  1,5 sqr mm
                   15 A  2,5 sqr mm
                   25 A  4,0 sqr mm
If You let 20A flow through a 2mm wire, it probably melted 
the insulation and made a shortcut to ground.

+ve---- relay for 1. set ------Fuse 8or12A ---lamp1
     |                       |
     |                       |-Fuse 8or12A ---lamp2
     |
     | 
     |- relay for 2. set ------Fuse 8or12A ---lamp3
                             |
                             |-Fuse 8or12A ---lamp4

2) how do I measure the ampage.
  from fuse ------------Ampermeter----------------lamp--------ground
If I have a multi meter does one bridge the connection and measure the current that flows?
Yes, You have to breake the connection, and put the meter in between. Calcurate the currect first,
so that You know how much You can expect. If not, You might burn Your multimeter because most
of them only can take 10A.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBD553.283E6440

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