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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Roadcraft
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 12:10:37 GMT

> >for everybody).                  ^^^^^^^^^ 
> What are the details on this please?

Its published by the UK Dept. of Transport (HMSO). Over here, its available in
most book shops - I bought mine in a WHSmiths. I'm only about halfway through
it though...
Cost is about L10, 'fraid I don't have an ISBN number handy.

If you know of a HMSO stockist in the Caribbean (!), they'll be able to get
it for you no trouble. I guess Grenada had one, before the US cleared its
stocks out...  :-)

In *theory*, its all you need to know to pass the Advanced Driving Test,
although I hear that lessons are needed in pretty much every case.
Its also the book used by the Police, except they're taught to do everything
at speed...

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 07:36:24 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Virginia DMV

Sandy grice writes...
>  I know a 
>lot of Rovers in Virginia, but I don't know *one* of them running on 
>historical plates. 

Ive seen a few NOT running...

Dave B.

     

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 14:01:40 +0100
Subject:       Haynes ISDN no.88 SIII diesel

I want to purchase the Haynes manual for my SIII 88,2.25l. 1981 
diesel. Could any of you send me the ISDN no. publisher etc. data on 
this one?

Thank You, 

Regards, 

Huub 

(still working to get the beast APK approved)

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:00:53 -0500
Subject: HEI Ignition

Jim: In your 4 Wheeler article you mentioned using a mid 70s Buick 350 HEI
distributor, but that the manifold would require grinding. Would this also
apply to an Edelbrock Performer manifold. Does the distributor drive also
need to be changed? I am in the final phases of collecting the needed parts
for the Projection swap: Holley 2 barrel Kit 502-2, Edelbrock Performer #2198
manifold, Isky 256 cam (202 duration at 0.05 lift). The distributor upgrade
might be a last minute addition. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I plan
to document the swap and its results and will report on same in the near
future. Cheers. Andy Blackley 

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:16:40 -0500
Subject: Collector/historical value

If people on the list don't mind me starting a discussion which may be a 
bit controversial, I'd like to get the opinions of a few of you on the 
collector/historical value of older Series vehicles.  I am not in this case 
particularly interested in the monetary value of an original LR, though 
that is part of it, of course.  I am more interested in what kind of sin it 
might be to modify a relatively rare example of an early series vehicle.

A lot of us are looking seriously at coil conversions, engine swaps, and 
other non standard modifications.  I don't think this is a bad thing since 
it enables us to use these things more often and more comfortably both on 
and off road.  I am in the middle of just such a conversion using a '65 109 
regular.  Not a common vehicle here in the states but not really rare.  
When I am finished I hope it will suit me and my needs far better than it 
could as a standard 109 pickup, but it will be changed so much it probably 
couldn't still be considered a Land Rover.  The running gear and frame on 
this particular vehicle were trashed and it had few salvageable drive train 
parts.  This seems to be a good use for the thing, though some of you have 
brought worse examples back to original condition.

The problem my conscience is encountering is with the next planned project, 
which will modify a really original early  '59 Series II Regular pickup.  
If you look on the cover of the Rovers North catalog you might be looking 
at this vehicle, which even still has the through the wing exhaust, one 
piece doors, and the big horn up in the right wing, and lots of other 
little original bits.  It's not running right now but it's in far better 
shape frame and bulkhead wise than others I have seen, and an easy, 
(relatively) restoration project.  There were only around 85,000 SII's 
produced 1958 to 1961, and of those relatively few have the early features 
this one does, (serial number 801 for 1959).  My plan is to do a coil conversion with 
a new frame, RR auto, LT230, and axles.  Even in the planning stages this 
bothers me.  How much historical value does something like this have?  I 
think I have already made a decision, but I'd like to know what the rest 
of you think about this and what model/years of vehicles should we think 
twice before changing.

 I have enjoyed the fact that we have been 
pretty free of the kind of discussions revolving around the type of plating 
on bolts, and the correct chassis colour that  I see in other groups which 
discuss vehicles in this age category.  I would never want to travel that 
road with our off-road critters, but perhaps we should have a care for 
particular examples.  Yes?

Rgds,
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996  7:22
From: "Adminstrator" <POSTMASTER@condenast.com>
Subject: Mail failure

TO: Owner-LRO-Digest                                           DATE: 11-15-96  
                                                               TIME: 07:22     
SUBJECT: Mail failure                                                          
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   Date: 1996-11-15 03:57
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	  Contents:
    1 azw@aber.ac.uk     Thu Nov 14 04:56   36/1600  Valve Tap?
    2 echo@pacific.net.s Thu Nov 14 05:02   36/1514  Re: Valve Tap?

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Nov 96  8:28:28 EST
Subject: Re: Collector/historical value

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@cdr.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:18:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Haynes ISDN no.88 SIII diesel

> I want to purchase the Haynes manual for my SIII 88,2.25l. 1981 
> diesel. Could any of you send me the ISDN no. publisher etc. data on 
> this one?

Land Rover Diesel S IIA& III, 1958-1985, 88 & 109
ISBN1 85010 096 9

Where are you? I have two copies.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:05:23 -0500
Subject: Re: RHD

>(usually the sword hand) This was typical of all sorts of cultures both
>Western and Eastern. This way, your shield was on the wrong side giving you
a
>exposed flank to archers on the walls.  Maybe, same thing applied with
>horses;  it just let the other rider know that you didn't have
"non-peaceful"
>intentions by exposing your flank to him..... 
>My two cents,
>Chris Fisher

YOU'RE ALL WRONG...  and it's a very simple answer!

The Brits just do things backwards, that's all.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:04:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Altimeter

Saw a Beechcraft aircraft altimeter installed in the dash of a Series IIA.
 Vehicle is on a used car lot in Newport, RI.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:44:08 -0500
From: NateDunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Collector/historical value

Ron Franklin wrote:
> The problem my conscience is encountering is with the next planned project,
> which will modify a really original early  '59 Series II Regular pickup.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> of you think about this and what model/years of vehicles should we think
> twice before changing.

Ron,

First off, I'd like to say that I think people should be able to do what
they want with objects such as cars (more difficult to say this when it
comes to land, etc) however, with that said, with a vehicle such as you
have (early SII) I think it would be a
shame to lose the authenticity of the engine/gearbox/suspension which
made the vehicle what it was.  Other than the front grill and wings
(which can be found used) the rest of the body panels look like all
other SII, IIa and III vehicles.  I'm sure you could find someone who'd
swap restoration car projects staight across for the SII and allow you
to make the modified vehicle you're interested in and save the SII at
the same time. 

e-mail me privately, I may have a possible solution.

-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@mail.idt.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 15:07:18 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Collector/historical value

>Speaking as one who drives a stock IIa daily, I'd say that you're making a
>mistake doing this to the old boy.

I agree with Alan.I'm in a similar position.And arguably there are more
old Rovers in the UK to go at than in other countries.
Consider the Austin Seven.At one time,these little cars were being made
into "specials" at a rate of knots.You could get one for ten quid.
Ten years later,much to the joy of collectors,you couldnt get one at all.
Try and buy one now!OK,so Land Rovers arent that valuable.But the supply
of ones in a tidy original state isnt infinite.
The magazine Land Rover Owner is about to turn a nice,easily repairable,
late 11A into a trials machine.They ought to be hung,in my view.
There arent that many late 11A's about with the headlights in the wings.
And they are getting fewer.And if everyone keeps turning them into
cross-country abortions there wont be *any*.
Matter for your conscience,really.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:10:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Virginia DMV

Sandy,

According to the DMV here, there WILL be at least one in March - MINE!  I
have already checked the number for the 1972 plates I have and it is free.
 They will handle it like a regular vanity plate and it will get the regular
VA month and year stickers.  If it was a restricted mileage registration,
then I wouldn't need the stickers.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Nov 96 10:15:39 EST
Subject: To Ron Franklin:

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:56:38 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Collector/historical value

What's the problem? Do whatever you want, it's your truck! If historic 
preservation is a consideration, keep the rolling chassis so it can go 
back together in the future. 
Like the vintage motorcyclists say: ride 'em, don't hide 'em. Better to 
use and enjoy it than to keep it all prissy and clean and never drive it 
as it was meant to be. History - schmistory.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: Dec Issue of "Four Wheeler"
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 07:57:39 -0800

(apologies in advance for the cross post, but I know Jim Allen is on the
LRO list an I wanted to make sure he gets this)

The December issue of Four Wheeler has a gold mine of LR articles: 
-- There's a short one on the 1996 Camel Trophy with lots of photos of
Borneo's mud
-- Jim Allen has a very extensive article on how to "build" your D-90. 

It's cool to see that much LR press in American truck mags and much of
the credit goes to Jim who probably contributes better than 90% of it!
Great coverage and a must read! Keep it up Jim!

Happy reading!
-- Bob W
'95 Disco

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:12:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Virginia DMV

In a message dated 96-11-15 01:10:37 EST, you write:

 First, no law says that you have to use a liscence plate made in our state's

 penal system.  You can register your British tags as a "vanity" plate if: 1)

 it fits (up to seven letters/numerals), 2) it's not already taken. It also 
 can't "advertise" anything.  Sand Toler had BASS ALE for a while, until the 
 local distributor got pissed off and complained to DMV.  They will send you 
 a plate, but to be legal, all you have to do is affix the month and year 
 decals to the British tags.

NO Possible way that foreign plates could be registered to a vehicle here in
NY
foreign plates can be displayed only for 30 days, while proper NY State reg
is obtained.
Plates displayed must be ones made by the state...

 
 As to "historic" plates, which you buy *once*, these limit use of the 
 vehicle.  By law, vehicles (and they have to be 25 years+) can only be 
 driven to/from a gas station or repair shop, a show or rally or on weekends.

  Even though the plates are a one-time purchase, the vehicle still has to 
 pass annual inspections - if it is to be driven on the highways.  I know a 
 lot of Rovers in Virginia, but I don't know *one* of them running on 
 historical plates.  Hope this helps.  Cheers
 
This is the same here.... either purchase historic plates thru Motor Vehicle
dept or supply your own old plates proper for the vehicle year you wish to
register as historic..I think the registration fee would be $ 4.00  quite a
savings over regular plates.., but again you would be limited in the use of
the vehicle

Rgds
Steve Bradke       

*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:40:33 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Driving on the Correct Side        Digest

>Apparently; originally, passage (traffic?) was on the left with the sword held
>in the right arm (worn on the left side) - and you could attack / defend
>yourself from those going the other way (as in jousts etc)

There's flaw in this argument Phil.The first passage in a joust was
with the lance.The old,heavy armour one.If and when the lance broke,
and assuming no-one became unhorsed,they beat the bejeesus out
of each other with a variety of scrap iron,among which was the
broadsword.A *double-handed* broadsword.Big bugger.Worn,as you say,
on the left(for a right handed swordsman,left handers being useful
for attacking up spiral staircases,which were a right hand helix).
So,to mount,you put your left foot in the stirrup,and swing(or clamber)
up onto the horse.Your sword naturally assumes its position,and doesnt
get in the way.If the sword was worn on the right,you would have to
hold it out of the way with the right hand,hold the reins in the left,
and pull yourself up with the (other?)right hand on the cantle.
Actually its always struck me as a damned silly place to wear a
sword.Over the back would have been better,wouldnt have got in the
way at all then!
just confuse matters,if anyone has read Vernam's "Man on Horseback"
(Tod?)back in the days of ancient Greece or whatever,a lancer had
a loop of leather about halfway up the lance shaft.To mount(bareback)
he stood on the *right* side of the horse,stuck his lance butt in the
ground,alongside the horses flank,put his *right* foot in the loop,
swung his left over the horse....which if mine is anything
to go by would by then have moved,thus depositing the unfortunate
squaddie flat on his face in the mud!

Land Rover content..perhaps they should try this in the Camel Trophy..
with camels....
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Same <fwd>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:58:00 -0500 ()

On Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:33:40 -0500 () "Adamson, John G" 
<adamsojg@jmu.edu> wrote:

> On Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:28:13 -0600 Paul Hanson 
> <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us> wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
> Adamson, John G
> adamsojg@jmu.edu

-- 
Adamson, John G
adamsojg@jmu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Gary Thomson" <gthomson@mlnetworks.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RHD
Date: 	Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:33:10 -0000

 Sanna@aol.com wrote.....

> YOU'RE ALL WRONG...  and it's a very simple answer!
> The Brits just do things backwards, that's all.

B****cks!  us Brits just did it first!, *that's* all!

Gary.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 19:47:35 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: 80" Tickford SWs (long, was Detailed 80" Tickford plans?)

Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:
The roof would require considerable talent with an English Wheel.
(BTW, if anyone is interested in English Wheel technique, get John
> Glover's videotape, or better yet attend one of his workshops.)

> Regards,
> David Cockey

out of curiousity - what is "English wheel Technique"?
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 12:50:48 -0600
From: Joel Guerra <guerra@mail.teamcmi.com>
Subject: Renewed Traditions?

Gentlemen,
Any thoughts/regrets concerning Renewed Traditions?

Happy Rovering,
Joel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 13:11:28 -0600
From: Joel Guerra <guerra@mail.teamcmi.com>
Subject: Renewed Traditions?

Gentlemen,
Any thoughts/regrets concerning Renewed Traditions?

Happy Rovering,
Joel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:21:37 -0800
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: english wheel Technique

Correct me if I am wrong here, but to my understanding an English wheel is
a sheet metal-working device used to form curved sections of bodywork. I
believe it streaches the material by compressing between two steel wheels
about 40cm diameter. Apparently it takes some time to master from what I
have heard.

>out of curiousity - what is "English wheel Technique"?
>--
>adrian redmond

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre, rear Koenig
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-back from the dead "going strong" (Squeak)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:51:49 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: LHD/RHD

Dear all, when my wife investigated this question a while ago, she went to 
our 1870's Britannica and looked up "Transportation". The article was very 
short: "See penal system". Transportation was when you shipped a convict to 
Australia...

She found answers in other sources. The Napoleon story is pure myth, btw, 
the switch occured in France, but long before the little Corsican.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:51:54 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Sweden

Trevor wrote:
>Then there was the tale about Sweden changing from RHD to LHD. In order to 
>reduce the impact (?) of the change Commercial Vehicles were to change the 
>first week. Private vehicles the second.

I was actually there at the time, so that must have been in 1965 or 66. The 
change was from left to right, of course, and it went incredibly smoothly. 
No traffic was allowed from midnight to 4 am on a Sunday, if I remember 
coreectly, and that was when all the signs got switched around. The next 
morning, virtually everybody was out driving around with big grins on their 
faces. No traffic casualties for about a week after that, btw...
Hej, as we used to say then
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:51:59 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SI and Seatbelts

Philip Rubini wrote about seatbelts in an SI. I put two shoulder harnesses 
on the front seats- the hip part is quite straightforward, the shoulder part 
goes back over the rear seat (Station Wagon) and is fastened to the forward 
slope of the rear wheel boxes. To keep the bolts from beeing pulled out of 
the aluminum body, I put stainless steel reinforcements behind the aluminum, 
that spreads the load in the case of an accident. I hope this makes sense? 
no good for children, thiugh, and they should definitely not be in the front 
seats.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:51:41 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Positive coils

Rick Grant wrote:
>>The coil works better one way 
>>than the other, but you may not even notice the difference.

>Hmmm, Peter, would intensity of spark be improved by changing around the coil? 

Really depends on where the low tension wire is connected. You should have 
two terminals on the coil, either marked + and - or with letters - CB for 
positive, I can't remember what the other one would be, and I have no idea 
what CB stands for or why. The low tension wire comes from the side of the 
distributor and should be connected to the correct coil terminal for the way 
your battery is turned around, eg to - on a -ve ground vehicle. This will 
improve the spark, and your system will live longer, generally speaking. 
Hope this makes more sense to you than it does to me!
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:51:56 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: 22593

Bill Leacock suggested:

>Trevor asks about 22593, could it be the part number of the frame ?
> My 52 parts list jumps from 21999 to 23000, dont have the  later ser 1 book
>   Bill Leacock

Sounded great, but no - 107 chassis frame is 246522, actually no parts 
listed between 21563 and 25536 in my late (86, 88, 107, 109) parts catalogue...
Sorry
Peter Hirsch
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: ppinheiro@ip.pt
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 19:58:18 +0000
Subject: Front differential nut

Hi to all!

   As I don't know all the exact names for the parts in English, 
please use some imagination in interpreting what I am about to write, 
and if you please, give the right name... :-)  So I don't have to 
write interpretational mechanics... :-)

   Well, I've bought an 1967 Series IIA 88", Diesel.  I named it 
"Oscar".  It has 2 main lubricant leaks - I've repaired the first, 
successfully - it came from a rubber "thing" that encloses the part 
that extends and retracts on the front prop shaft, it had a hole.  I 
bought the part, and changed it.  I disassembled the propt shaf  at 
the joint between the front differential entering point and the
universal joint, and disassembled the propt shaft and replaced the 
rubber "thing" (It must sound awful!).

   The other lubricant leak comes from the front differential itself, 
from the spot between the diff casing and the rotating plate that 
connects to the U/J.  It's certainly the retainer that should keep 
the HP90 in that is worn out, so I bought the retainer (I don't know 
if this is the right name - it is a round circle of what seems very 
hard rubber, with a hole in it, with springs that keep pressure on 
the hole).

   And here is where I'm stuck - I can't unscrew the nut that is on 
the way to removing the connecting rotating plate to access the oil 
retainer to changed it.  I've taken the little safety clip that goes into 
the perfuration in the nut and screw.

   Here are my questions (finaly!):

  1.  Does the nut unscrew anti clockwise ?
  2.  Should I brake the car (with the foot brake) to avoid the car 
moving, or should I grip the plate that rotates ?
  3.  Is there any way to ease it ?  I've tried a WD40 equivalent, 
but it hasn't helped at all.

    I hope you guys can help me!! :-)

    Thanks for reading this long message!  When I learn all the 
English names for the parts, the messages will be much shorter! :-)

       Best regards,                          Pedro Pinheiro
     AFS Exchange Student - Missouri, US - 1993-94
          '67 Land Rover SIIA Diesel (Oscar)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 14:06:48 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Altimeter

At 10:04 AM 15/11/96 -0500, Lodelane@aol.com, wrote

>Saw a Beechcraft aircraft altimeter installed in the dash of a Series IIA.
> Vehicle is on a used car lot in Newport, RI.

Funny this should pop up.  I'm right in the middle of a project to install
an altimeter out of an old Somali Air Force Aero-Commander in my SII.  I
have an airspeed indicator also but I would need a flat out run down a hill
into a stiff headwind to make the needle move.

 

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 16:25:20 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Front differential nut

Hi to all!

>>   As I don't know all the exact names for the parts in English, 

>> rubber "thing"

"driveshaft gaiter"

>>the part that extends and retracts on the front prop shaft,

"slip joint"
 
>>hole. 

"hole"

>>lubricant 

"90 weight",or  "gear oil"

>> rotating plate 

"lazy susan"

just kidding, that's a "bevel pinion drive flange"

>>retainer 

"oil seal"

>>little safety clip 

"cotter pin"

>>perfuration

"hole"
   
>>.Here are my questions (finaly!):

>>  1.  Does the nut unscrew anti clockwise ?

No. only if you live south of the equator...

>>  2.  Should I brake the car (with the foot brake) to avoid the car 
moving, or should I grip the plate that rotates ?

If you wanbt you can have a friend sit in the drivers seat and hold the foot 
brakes down firmly. Without an assistant it could be difficult to keep holding 
them while you undo the nut. Also you could chock the wheels. None of this will 
work if you have freewheeling hubs that are unlocked. Lock em if you got em. 
(Score one for the "anti-freewheel hubbers" out there)
 
 3.  Is there any way to ease it ?  I've tried a WD40 equivalent, 
but it hasn't helped at all.

Ease it? Isn't that quaint! Get your biggest wrench on there and then deliver a 
rapid succession of sharp blows to the end of the wrench until it either breaks 
or loosens the nut. If it breaks, take it back to Sears (it IS craftsman of 
course...right!?) If its not sears then youre SOL. If the nut comes off then you
are all set to complete the next stage of the procedure. Remove the drive flange
and  whatever else is behind it, and then stop. get into your other car :-) and 
go buy an oil seal remover. You'll thank yourself later. While you're at it, 
pick up a tube of your favorite gasket sealant. Go home. Prise the seal from the
diff casing using the oil seal remover, and then carefully clean out any dirt 
("crap") around the hole where the seal just was. Spread some gasket sealant 
("crap") around the outside edge of the new oil seal and carefully drive it into
its hole using a block of wood as a cushion to keep it from getting damaged. 
Make sure the seal drives in as straight as possible. put everything back in and
retorque the "bevel pinion drive flange castle nut" to the proper torque as 
specified in your factory manual. I think its around 80 ft lbs. Also now is the 
time to check the breather on top of your axle for clogging. Its a small brass 
mushroom shaped thingy betweent the diff and the left wheel. Unscrew it from the
axle and shake it up and down. It should make a distinct rattle from the little 
bb that's in there. if it doesn't rattle its clogged and you need to loosen it 
up with some WD40. if this is clogged then it may cause more seals to blow in 
the future...

>>    I hope you guys can help me!! :-)

Sorry, you live too far away. You'll have to tackle this one without us. :-)

>>    Thanks for reading this long message!  When I learn all the 
English names for the parts, the messages will be much shorter! :-)

Is that a promise? 
     
>>  Best regards,                          Pedro Pinheiro
     AFS Exchange Student - Missouri, US - 1993-94
          '67 Land Rover SIIA Diesel (Oscar)

Welcome to the US...and to the Joy of Rovers...

Dave Bobeck
Arlington VA
72 Series III SWB W/Collectible Late IIa Grille and...gasp!...Series II frame!! 

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:26:01 -0500
Subject: 110 front speakers

Well the 17 yr old kid who owned "Golden Fleece" my 110 had a different
stereo in it and "ripped" it out and replaced the original one but didn't
wire the front speakers.
I've got 4 wires on the L front speaker and wired those to the thing and that
works...the R front only had 2 wires (together) and doesn't work.  How should
wiring go..1pos and 1 neg to each speaker...or what...
Greg

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:29:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Front differential nut

In response to Pedro, 
<<As I don't know all the exact names for the parts in English, 
please use some imagination in interpreting what I am about to write, and if
you please, give the right name...>>

<<a rubber "thing" that encloses the part>>
So far, a pretty accurate description...

<<the propt shaft and replaced the rubber "thing" (It must sound awful!).>>
Don't worry about imaginations, most LRO's are *oblivious* and, oh yeah, they
are only good until they leak; when that happens it's all over...

<<I've tried a WD40 equivalent, but it hasn't helped at all.>>
Aha, you find out that there are no "equivalents" to WD40, only stuff that
works better...   WD-41, WD-42, WD-43...   : ) 

<<a round circle of what seems very hard rubber, with a hole in it, with
springs that keep pressure on the hole)>>
That would be a (defective) Medieval Leyland proph*lact*c way beyond its
expiry date... (if Lanny's got a new one, it's mine...)

All funnyness aside, it is an "oil seal" that is leaking.  What you are
holding may only be the "mudshield" or "round rubber thingy with springy
circles in it" and it may not be the only one that leaks oil (I belive there
are two shields and one seal). 

The last time I saw this a guy replace these, it didn't cost more than $14 to
get all three pieces, which included that ever important new "cotter pin"
(<<the little safety clip that goes into the perfuration>>)

If you put your rover against some immoveable objects (like another rover,
for example) or a big tree, you won't have to worry about moving the car with
your brute strength.

pat "I thought I had an oil seal in my wallet" parsons
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 16:29:51 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Renewed Traditions?

Gentlemen,
Any thoughts/regrets concerning Renewed Traditions?

Happy Rovering,
Joel

The consensus here is buyer beware. Theyre have been some questions as to the 
legality of some of their imports. Make sure you REALLY know what you are 
buying. Haven't dealt with em myself.
Later
Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: 15 Nov 96 16:48:34 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: One-Tonne shackles on an 88"

>In this month's LROI, I noticed that the claim was made that the one-tonne
>pickup has taller shackles than a standard 109 or 88.  Is this one way to
>lift an 88?  If so, what are the repurcussions regarding steering geometry,

I don't think it would do much for an 88". On a 109, and in particular on a
Station Wagon, they make sense because these rigs tend to have their ass
sagging a bit, even with proper springs. 1-tonne shackles on the rear springs
puts them back level again (had them on mine). Wouldn't put them on the
front springs, though, as they will significantly increase axle movement
and cause steering response to be more 'nervous'. For the same reason I
would combine the long shackles on the rear springs only with heavy duty
springs that are stiffer and don't travel as much as stock 109 springs.
Again, this was the setup I had.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:03:33 -0500
Subject: Re: RHD

>B****cks!  us Brits just did it first!, *that's* all!

..then we fixed it.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 18:29:22 -0500
Subject: Re: LRs in FOUR WHEELER (Woody SW?)

Jeff reports that
>the December 1996 issue of FOUR WHEELER has
>  something for everyone.
>  And a short article on a 1952 Series 1 Woody SW. (Opposite the Mile Marker
>  winch ad).

Is this a true "woody", i.e. an all wood custom SW, or the Tickford aluminum
skin SW which has woody styling? Although the Tickford SW is more of a metal
than wood project, a custom Model T/Model A style depot hack/sw on a SI or
SII/IIA, with an all wood body behind the bulkhead would be neat. It should
be well within the capabilities of a reasonable wood worker. A 107/109
chassis might work better than a 80/86/88.

Regards,
David Cockey  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:03:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Renewed Traditions?

On Fri, 15 Nov 1996, Joel Guerra wrote:

> Gentlemen,
> Any thoughts/regrets concerning Renewed Traditions?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Happy Rovering,
> Joel
I'll go out on a limb here and guess that you will get  about 10 negative
responses to (if you get any) positive responces about this company.  I
think the last time that name was mentioned on the list someone had a
fairly eloquent remark...."I wouldn't piss on the bastards if they were on
fire"

cheers
Russ W

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 21:38:13 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Tailgating

WRT this thread on tailgating...sometimes the miscreants get what they deserve.

20 or so years ago, I was heading to Vermont for skiing.  My favorite route 
is to exit the Northway at Lake George (wintertime only!) and take 9N north. 
It was about 10 when I stopped at this roadhouse to grab a bite.  As I was 
leaving, another guy headed out.  Several miles up the road, this joker 
caught up with me.  Mind you, Tongue Mtn. late at night in a snowstorm *is* 
the middle of nowhere.  Well, I'm cruising along at 35 mph in 4WD - and this 
is as *fast* as practical on this road at night in the snow - and this guy 
is right on my tail, flashing his lights and honking.  H finally passes me 
on a blind curve and blasts past with a final bray of rage.  "Yeah, up yours 
too, buddy!" I holler, settling back into some good tunes for a snowy evening.

About ten minutes later, I come upon a car in a ditch.  There's this guy 
sitting on his hood, quite pissed (in more ways than one), and I ask, "Need 
a tow?" stooping to unlock the chain on the rear crossmember.  His face 
brightens considerably.  "Yes..." he stammers.  Mind you since I left the 
town, I hadn't seen a vehicle in either direction; indeed, the nearest 
"civilization" was the bar, 15 miles back.  Then I recognize the car and the 
dude...*the tailgater*.  By gawd, there *is* justice in this world!  "I 
could *easily* tow you out..." I say, climbing back into the Rover, "but I 
won't." His jaw dropped a yard, and he remained speechless/motionless as I 
drove off into the night.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Alan Jardine <ALAN@atd.co.uk>
Date:          Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:03:33 +0
Subject:       Re: Collector/historical value

> From:           "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
> Send reply to:  Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Date sent:      Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:16:40 -0500
> Subject:        Collector/historical value

> If people on the list don't mind me starting a discussion which may be a 
> bit controversial, I'd like to get the opinions of a few of you on the 
> collector/historical value of older Series vehicles.  I am not in this case 
> Originally to:  Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

I think it's all relative.  If you have a vehicle which is not of 
particular historical value and requires an inordinate amount of 
parts/work then I would not hesitate to do something like convert to 
coid springs.  Therefore with your 109 I would say go ahead.

However, with a rarer example in origional (if not necessarily good) 
condition I would either restore to origional spec or find it a good 
home.

I think it's not only our own feelings we should consider.  There are 
a lot of people who like origionality in their older vehicles.  By 
heavily modifying one of these we reduce the available supply.  Once 
these things are chopped around with it makes it difficult, if not 
nearly impossible, to change back.

Therefore, with your swb I would be tempted to leave well alone.

Personally, I have an ex-MOD lightweight which is pretty near 
origional.  The only major changes are to aid drivability,  adding an 
overdrive, Webber carb and thermo-electric fan.  All of these can 
easily be changed back to the origional equipment.  Personally I also 
think that lightweights look better in their true colours.

On the dirty subject of monetary value, as time goes by a rare 
vehicle will increase in value and will (hopefully) return 
any investment.  A modified vehicle will probably not be worth the 
money put in to the rebuild and will probably only depreciate 
afterwards.

As I say, only my opinion, but I hope my input helps.

Alan Jardine,  ATD.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:18:17 -0800
From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 110 front speakers

Gregspitz@aol.com wrote:
> Well the 17 yr old kid who owned "Golden Fleece" my 110 had a different
> stereo in it and "ripped" it out and replaced the original one but didn't ...

A 17 yr old kid owned a NAS D110?

------------------------------

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