Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Lodelane@aol.com 15Re: help
2 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob9Deep in Georgia Mud
3 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi18Re: Duct tape
4 Alastair [alastair.lyon@326 cylinder blues...
5 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M12Re: Duct tape
6 Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur45Re: Duct tape
7 lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.u37Re: 6 cylinder blues...
8 Greg Spitz [Gspitz@conce11[Auto Humor]
9 Greg Spitz [Gspitz@conce10[Fwd: [Fwd: FWD>Humor- You are what you]]
10 Peter Kutschera [peter@z23Re: Late IIa Clutch Master
11 ericz@cloud9.net 13Re: Sacrilege
12 Jeff Berry [jaberry@i20211Duty/Taxes
13 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet23Re: Duty/Taxes
14 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi23Re: Duct tape
15 Michael Carradine [cs@cr21Re: Duty/Taxes
16 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b15Re: Duty/Taxes
17 RoverNut@aol.com 34Fwd: half-shafts
18 Wdcockey@aol.com 33Re: Duty/Taxes (It varies, can be zero)
19 "Bruce Horkings" [bruce@15[not specified]
20 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi40Re: Fwd: half-shafts
21 Solihull@aol.com 20Re: Late IIa Clutch Master
22 nahari ofir [ofir_n@park25Re: Old Style Pith Helmet
23 nahari ofir [ofir_n@park26Re: Late IIa Clutch Master
24 nahari ofir [ofir_n@park22Re: Fwd: half-shafts
25 m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro33Re: Swivels
26 Kevin Girling [lroshop@i15Non Land Rover Matter
27 rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa36Re: Fwd: half-shafts
28 rovah@agate.net (John Ca19Maine Rover Club(?)
29 bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman17LR models?
30 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.17Re: quiet stage 1??
31 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti27Synthetic blend oils
32 ASFCO@aol.com 17Re: Non Land Rover Matter
33 lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.u25Re: quiet stage 1??
34 Tom Cooper [tomcoop@ozem29Re: Fwd: half-shafts
35 silkris@pacific.net.sg (34Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l
36 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.32Re: quiet stage 1??
37 silkris@pacific.net.sg (38Re: 6 cylinder blues...
38 Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m31[not specified]


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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 07:55:53 -0400
Subject: Re: help

Talked recently to a buddy who was a helicopter mechanic for 15 plus years.
 The way they fought corrosion was use of the pea green zinc chromate primer
and liberal use of aluminum washers under all fasteners.  You still get some
galvanic corrosion around the lip of the hole where the steel (yes and even
stainless) fasteners go thru, however you don't the big ring of corrosion
where the steel washer rests on the surface.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 08:33:14 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Deep in Georgia Mud

John Dillingham, could you email me privately please?
Thanks
Dave B.
dbobeck@ushmm.org

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 08:15:03 -6
Subject: Re: Duct tape

> Don't call it dust tape.  "It's gaffer's tape,"
-
Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 23:24:00 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: 6 cylinder blues...

Thought I'd take the oppertunity to quiz y'all about the infamous Rover 2.6
6 cylinder motor in my SIII...

First, it has a really rattly tappet - the first mechanic I had told me he
used to work for the Army, and that it should be fixed quick smart; before
I burn those valves...now I've moved up Australia's coast, and my *new*
mechanic rekons the Army set it up like that, to help it NOT burn those
valves! I've had the car for about 3000 kms like it is, and had little
trouble engine wise, so I'm figuring that I won't burn my valves with a
rattly tappet. BTW, how do you burn the valves? Just really hard driving?

Oh yeah, it's a pig on fuel too (what's new I hear you all asking), but my
standard 70L tank only gets me 300 kms if I'm lucky! I know it's a 4wd, and
it has the aerodynamics of a barn door, but it this acceptable?

Look forward to you responses!

		-Alastair

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Probably the only teenager who WANTED a Land Rover as a first car

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.                                        *
*****************************************

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 14:25:22 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Duct tape

>-
>Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that.
>Tom Rowe

Tin knockers? No...I darent,I really darent....I think you boobed,Tom.

Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:49:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Duct tape

>Don't call it dust tape.  "It's gaffer's tape," corrects writer Don Belt,
>who used the stuff to remove hundreds of baby ticks from his legs in

There *is* a difference between the two types of tape.

Duct tape is the shiny silver stuff that will stick to almost anything --
and if you buy the cheap surplus stuff, usually folds in on itself and is
impossible to seperate.  It's used for sealing heating duct joints.  Once
removed, it leaves a sticky residue on the surface to which it was
originally attached.

Gaffers tape is generally a matt finish -- so it doesn't reflect light in
unwanted directions.  It's also supposed to not stick to much of anything
-- except itself.  The idea is that when lighting gaffers are doing a
location shoot, they can safely "gaff" cables along floors and walls and
not have to worry about peeling the finish off when they remove the cable
runs.  Most of the time, it sort of works.  When removed it mostly leaves
surfaces and cables gunk free.

I can see why the writer wanted people to know he was using gaffers tape to
peel ticks.  Duct tape would peel hair and skin as well.

I carry a roll of a gaffers tape (black) in my camera bag, but duct tape is
what lives in the Rover for repairs.  Gaffers tape comes in handy if you
need to temporarily tape a sign to the side of the Rover though -- unless
of course you're of the "just use screws" persuasion.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 14:47:54
Subject: Re: 6 cylinder blues...

On Tue 22 Oct 96 (23:24:00 +1000), alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au wrote:
>Thought I'd take the oppertunity to quiz y'all about the infamous Rover
>2.6 6 cylinder motor in my SIII...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
>*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.                                        *
>*****************************************
1st >Probably the only teenager who WANTED a Land Rover as a first car
     Oh no your not!

2nd Tappets - set them as it says on the rocker cover and manual, they
              should not rattle, because...

3rd Valves  - valves get burned (prematurely) by exhaust gasses, which
              are obviously very hot, escaping "early" because the valve
              is open when it should'nt be. The point at which the valve
              opens is fine tuned by the tappet. Over tightening the tappets
              to shut them up if they rattle when set correctly will not help
              either in the long run.

4th Fuel    - I used to reckon on 16 miles to the proper gallon with my 2.6,
              so I think if my sums are correct, then your about right.

Hope this is useful.

Richard

-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:27:58 -0700
From: Greg Spitz <Gspitz@concentric.net>
Subject: [Auto Humor]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

this is a great list of what you are by the auto you drive...
please fill in for land rover

--------------D032E04FC8

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:29:07 -0700
From: Greg Spitz <Gspitz@concentric.net>
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: FWD>Humor- You are what you]]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

resent ...

--------------55C864FA73A7

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 16:59:08 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

Hello Scott!

When I replaced the clutch master cylinder on my LHD SIIa about one
year ago the greatest problem was to unscrew the pipes. 

Then you have to remove the 6 screws holding the pedal on the
bulkhead.
Now you can lift the pedal out. Rotate it by 90 Deg.

But what do you mean: Brake Servo? I don't have one.

Hope this helps a little
 Peter

-- 
Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think....
Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sacrilege

On Tue, 22 Oct 96, lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists) wrote:

>Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. 

Huh?  I'm sorry, I can't hear you!

Eric

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 12:10:07 -0400
From: Jeff Berry <jaberry@i2020.net>
Subject: Duty/Taxes

Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts
from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars..
-- 
***Jeff Berry, Richmond, VA----jaberry@i2020.net
* '94 D90 	
* '94 FLSF

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:30:00 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes

Jeff Berry wrote:
> Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts
> from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars..
> --

Technically it varies depending on the nature of the part.  In my experience
customs usually just rings up an averaged approximately 3%.

When you say post do you mean UPS or air freight?

UPS will want COD for the duty - they've covered it in the past for me and that's how
they want it back :)

Air freight is more hassle and you end up paying US Customs direct after shuttling paperwork.

cheers,

Jeremy

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:50:34 -6
Subject: Re: Duct tape

> >-
> >Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Tin knockers? No...I darent,I really darent....I think you boobed,Tom.
> Mike Rooth
Bad pun Mike :-) but I understand your inability to resist.
Tin knockers here in the US is what we in the construction trades (or 
formerly in them) call the people who do the HVAC ductwork.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:57:20 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes

At 12:10 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts
>from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars..

 Should be about 2.5% ....  US$7.50

 Regards,

-Michael                    (He's experimenting with )
                                (names again, sheesh!)
                         ______    /
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                           Blue Velvet
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^      '73 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 15:23:21 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes

>At 12:10 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts
>from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars..
Mine was about 2%,  my order was $2000 ($600 shipping)
Mike Johnson  N7WBO

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  175k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 16:04:45 -0400
Subject: Fwd: half-shafts

>.
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    half-shafts
Date:    96-10-16 09:31:26 EDT
From:    RoverNut

CC:      RoverNut

I've had my rovers for quite some time and I'm intrigued by this half-shaft
stuff.
I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how
far can one drive like this? Are there speed limitations? Is it necessary to
drop the rear prop shaft?
Also, any clues as to when they might go?
Is replacing them in advance a good idea?

I just painted the IIa this weekend and it was one hell of a learning
experience. If anybody is thinking about doing it, contact me soon for time
and money saving tips. I suffered so you don't have to!
~ Wow, does it look great. For the first time since I've had it it's not 6
different colors.

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
'69 IIa - Marine Blue
'89 Rangie - White

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 18:38:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes (It varies, can be zero)

Jeff inquires:
>Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts
>from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars..

My experience includes both the Post Office and FedEx. All but one of the
orders sent via the Post Office have been delivered duty free. The one that
duty was charged involved a trip to the Post Office and a $5 fee plus the
small amount of duty. I think the one which was charged duty was large, heavy
and looked "industrial".

All the Federal Express orders have been charged duty, which is nominal, but
FedEx also charges a $10 or so brokerage fee and shipping is also more
expensive. They bill after the delivery rather than requiring payment up
front. Some British firms prefer FedEx to their post office claiming lost
parcel problems with the postal service, but I haven't had problems.

Shipping from Britain isn't cheap, so factor shipping into potential savings.
Air freight for a large order may be significantly cheaper per pound, but
usually involves a trip to the airport and dealing with a broker.

The cheapest shipping is as baggage on a flight. British Airways didn't care
that our bags were 40 lbs over the weight limit, just that we didn't have too
many bags. Northwest carried a SII front exhaust pipe with no complaints
previously.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

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From: "Bruce Horkings" <bruce@nmit.vic.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 09:01:24 -1000

unsubcribe lro
Regards,

Bruce Horkings
Computer Services Department
Northern Melbourne Institute of TAFE
St Georges Road, Preston, 3072, Victoria, Australia.
email:bruce@nmit.vic.edu.au
phone: +61 03 92701450
fax: +61 03 92701449

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 20:02:26 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts

Alex "RoverNut" Maiolo asks about halfshafts...

>I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how
>far can one drive like this? Are there speed limitations? Is it necessary to
>drop the rear prop shaft?
-
Lock your front hubs (if you have free-wheeling hubs), Push down that yellow
knob and off you go! OK.. If you have to drive a great distance, it's a good
idea to drop the rear drive shaft *and* remove both half-shafts. That will
keep the rear diff from grinding up the little bits of half-shaft that may
be floating around. Obviously, if you break a half shaft somewhere it is
impractical to do all that (like in the middle of the freeway at rush hour)
you have no choice but to leave it in place, but the idea is to minimize any
damage that might occur in the diff until you can replace the shafts.

>Also, any clues as to when they might go?
-
Anytime when you least expect it! Mine broke going up my driveway....

>Is replacing them in advance a good idea?
-
Some people say to paint a straight white stripe down the length of the
shaft and then periodically pulling the shafts to check for any twisting.
Pulling the shafts is easy.. Remove the 6 bolts on the hub driving member
and pull the hub with the shaft still attached.

If you are really worried, you might as well pull them out now and check for
any signs of stress.. Go ahead, do it now... we'll wait.....

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 20:13:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

Scott,
  Here's my system for that fix. Unbutton the master cyl from the booster and
ease it up out of the way. remove the brake pedestal  and servo as a unit.
twist it to get the pedal through the hole. undo the clutch mcyl pedestal the
same way, pull it up a few inches to get to the pipe going to the slave cyl
and remove in similar manner after undoing the pipe. then you can change it
over on the bench. Reinstall is the reverse, except use something to seal the
pedestals, I use latex caulk. I have a spare rebuilt if you need it.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:05 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Old Style Pith Helmet

At 10:31 PM 10/21/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Jeffrey A Berg wrote:
>> A while back someone (David Place?)  was looking for an "old style" pith
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>they have is still not quite the style I need.  It is the kind you often 
>see on TV worn by female bwana with a scarf flapping out of the head 
>band.  It is a bit thicker at the rim than mine.  Dave VE4PN
Hi
Iv'e got a helmet like that ex-Brithish Army with a date printed inside (1948).
Also a leather pilot cape ,grey with "dog's ears", & a Jordan Legion helmet
(dagger
on top ,black cloth with sun protector(?) on the back.
Also an Ostralian Army hat (folded on one side).
I would like to know more aboat these .
bye 
Ofir 

1964 IIa 88  Ex-Israely Army (Ex-Jordan Legion)
1951 I  80  Ex-Border Patrol
 

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:07 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

At 10:21 PM 10/21/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Rokegem Luc wrote:
>> M Scott Fugate wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>fastener or a thumb screw, you know the little thing with the flat top so 
>you can turn it.  In this space I put the water bottle for my window 
>washer system.  It really looks good and it serves a purpose. Dave VE4PN
Hi 
Also did that ,I just lift off the wing on hinges when I need .
The bolts near the windshield close it.
Look ok & lasts .
bye
Ofir                              hinges
                            _______|____________
                            I .    |           I
                            I :    |           I
                            I--____|           I
                                   ------______I  
1964 IIa 88 Ex Army
1951 I 80 Ex Border Patrol
              

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:20 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts

At 04:04 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>.
>---------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
>'69 IIa - Marine Blue
>'89 Rangie - White
Hello
I'm doing a frame over to my sII.
Going to paint it bronze green .Body is in good shape but some cracks in the
paint
because of previous owners repairs.
I sure would like some tips.
Thank you
Ofir

1964 Ex Military sIIa 88
1951 sI 80

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 10:39:14 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Re: Swivels

>Has anyone ever had their swivel pins re-chromed?  If so, where did you have
>it done, how much did it cost, and what are the benefits/draw backs from
>having this done?  Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Yes I have recently bought a set of swivels - rechromed on exchange .ie you
send the old ones back.
In Australia the rechromed swivel housing costs AU$120 and I can't see any
drawback from having ones rechromed, not yet anyway.

It is however a lenghty job to replace them. It took me one day to do one
side. I am hoping that now with the experience gained from the left hand
side, the right hand side will only take me 3/4 of the day..... ha ha.

When you chnage the swivel housing it is a good idea to change the pins,
bushes and seals (whilst you have it apart). One thing that I did not do is
get new oil seal retainers for the back of the housing (I should have done
this as the old one os pretty rusty).

Hope that this is useful.
Mirek.
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:19:08 -0400
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Non Land Rover Matter

Can someone in the Boston area please help me.  I am trying to find out
where the Irish dance show "Riverdance" will be playing in Boston after
Christmas sometime.  First person who can correctly identify the theatre and
supply me with a box office telephone number wins a GBP10 gift voucher for
LRO SHOP plus a 1997 Pete Wilford Calendar.  My six year old daughter is
driving me mad as she wants to see this show badly.

Many thanks

Kevin

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:12:27 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts

>I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how
>far can one drive like this?
Usually as far as needed or as far as you can stand.
 Are there speed limitations?
Probably shouldn't go hot rodding it, but basicly its the same as regular
two wheel drive only with the front two wheels instead of the rear two.
 Is it necessary to
>drop the rear prop shaft?
No.
>Also, any clues as to when they might go?
Usually none at all, but it will usually be when it is the most incovienient.
>Is replacing them in advance a good idea?
I don't think preventative replacement would serve any good purpose except
to lower your bank account.  Although, a new pair standing by with the
necessary seals, etc. is always a relief when it does happen.  Also, it's
always best to replace both left and right as soon as possible because when
one goes, the other is not far behind.
>I just painted the IIa this weekend and it was one hell of a learning
>experience. If anybody is thinking about doing it, contact me soon for time
>and money saving tips. I suffered so you don't have to!

Please, send me your tips.  I've just purchased a couple of Series that may
need painting and I've not undertaken that particular bit of fun.

Thanks
Steve

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 22:09:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Maine Rover Club(?)

This is a message primarily for all my fellow Rover owners living in
Maine(be they native or not! ;-)).  I am wondering why we have yet to form
a Maine Rover club!?  There are definitely plenty of us here, and I know
that there are some winter outings that occur.  If anyone on the list has
interest in joining/organizing such an entity, let me know!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 00:41:15 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: LR models?

I am completely ignorant of Land Rover toys, so I was wondering if any of
the avid collecters out there could point me in the direction of a
small(matchbox-sized), relatively cheap model of a IIA 88" Station Wagon.
Are there any dealers in the US? Thanks!

Braman
1966 IIA 88"

P.S. After spending the last 4 months sitting neglected behind my house
while I was away, my rover started on the first turn of the engine! It's
great to drive the beast again, I even enjoyed hitting my head on the roof
at every pothole.

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: quiet stage 1??
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 14:06:54 +0930 (CST)

Richard writes:
> Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. 

Say What?  Where oh where is this quiet stage 1, aint no stage 1 I've 
been in.  Actually Miroslav B has probably got one of the noisyest LR's 
ever a 3.9D stage 1

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 00:21:51 -0500
Subject: Synthetic blend oils

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone had any info on all these new synthetic blended   
oils out on the market now. I checked the motor oil FAQ, but it hasn't   
been updated yet.

FWIW, I just changed to Valvoline 10W-40 synthetic blend for the winter   
in my '66 2.25L (it was all they had left at Target).

My guess is that the percentage is not correspondent to the price   
increase over normal oils (i.e. 50% more than normal, but I doubt there   
is 50% synthetic oil in it) - basically, its some kind of marketing hype.

However, if it improves the starting ability by keeping the oil somewhat   
liquified at -10F, it will be worth it...

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 02:02:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Non Land Rover Matter

Kevin;
   Although I am currently located in Albany , NY I used to work on Long
Island. Here's my suggestion... 
       I would call the Claddagh Shop ( they're on  Long Island in Queens
 call  718 information for the number ) ...they are an Irish inport
place..they may know.  I'm not Irish and  don't have a clue as to who
Riveerdance is but I'd be willing to bet they would know, or be willing to
steer you in the right direction....
Hope this helps you ...
Rgds
Steve Bradke 

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From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 96 07:55:18
Subject: Re: quiet stage 1??

On Wed 23 Oct 96 (14:06:54 +0930), dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au wrote:
>Richard writes:
>> Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> ever a 3.9D stage 1
>cheers W

Actually, I'm serious. After my 2.25 petrol and 2.6 the car is bliss. It is
perfectly posssible to have a conversation without shouting at 85mph. 

Presumably the 3.9D means deisel, and is therefore a conversion, as Stage 1's
only every came in 3.5 petrol.

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 19:10:46 +1100
From: Tom Cooper <tomcoop@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts

RoverNut@aol.com wrote:
> >.
> ---------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> I've had my rovers for quite some time and I'm intrigued by this half-shaft
> stuff.

What is the reccomended repar procedure for busted half-shafts. I broke
one about 50km from the top of Cape York and had to fix it on the beach!

I removed both shafts, then dropped out the diff, tried to clean out all
the swarf then refitted. 

I thought the shafts were supposed to break in a place where there was
no danger of metal getting into the diff. casing. If this is so couldn't
someone invent something to fish out the broken end without taking out
the diff? - perhaps a magnet on a stick?

I got fed up of breaking shafts & fitted a Salisbury. On reflection I
had developed a very bad driving habit - changing to first from reverse
without stopping completely and using the transmission to change
direction. Hardly suprising that I was breaking the shafts!

Tom Cooper SIIA 109 4cyl petrol Brisbane Australia

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 17:54:52 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l

Hi Richard,

>Land Rover quoted me 2 ATDC for the 7.8:1 compression ration engine (serial nos
>941.....) or TDC for the other compression, which I think is 8.2:1

According to the Land Rover SerIII Repair Operation Manual,(AKM3648)
2.6l petrol ignition timing, *static* as follolws:
        7.8:1 compression (941...)               2deg ATDC using 90 octane fuel
                                                 6deg ATDC using 85 octane fuel
        7.0:1 compression (944...)               2deg BTDC using 83 octane fuel
                                                 TDC using 80 octane fuel
I am using 98 octane on a 7.8:1 engine and have found that 2deg works best
on those long highway routes, where you need to let the revs climb a bit to
obtain good torque. 3deg is good for X-country but temperature climbs a bit
on those long steep climbs on 4 X low X second gear.These are all dynamic
(strobe) figures. Using the figures from the manual tend to have the engine
a bit on the retard, with 98 octane fuel.

Anyone have any comments

Cheers,
Lawrence
Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg)
SerIII 2.6l 109

Ps. I have discovered that TDC set statically will yield about 2deg BTDC
last night.

Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: quiet stage 1??
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 19:29:40 +0930 (CST)

Richard replies: 
> Actually, I'm serious. After my 2.25 petrol and 2.6 the car is bliss. It is
> perfectly posssible to have a conversation without shouting at 85mph. 

Your 3.5 must be a lot sweeter than mine, at 85mph (over 4500 rpm) I
havent got a hope of civilised conversation and the wind and tyre noise is
horrific and the transfer case sounds like its going to jump through the
floor....   Oh well Just think what I have to lok forward too when i 
finally fix it up

> Presumably the 3.9D means deisel, and is therefore a conversion, as Stage 1's
> only every came in 3.5 petrol.

Well you just learnt something new... the 3.9D (isuzu) was indeed a factory 
fitment here in OZ, not that many around but very nice....  its the 4BD1 
the same motor used in OZ 110's (pre-defender) and the OZ army 
Bushranger's.  a turbo version is used in the 6x6 perentje's

as another twist didnt the South africans have a six cylinder stage 1 
equivalent ????

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 18:31:55 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Re: 6 cylinder blues...

Hi Alastair,
> NOT burn those
>valves! I've had the car for about 3000 kms like it is, and had little
>trouble engine wise,
Try setting your tappets as follows: inlet.. 0.15mm (.006in.) engine hot (ouch!)
                                     exhaust...0.25mm (.010 in.) hot or cold
I have mine set that way and the engine is so quiet, sometimes I
accidentally recrank the starter, thinking I've stalled. You must ensure
that all valves have SOME clearance. Chances are a valve run more than a
short time with no clearance is burnt.
All valves disperse heat through the valve seat onto the block. if for any
reason the valve does not seat fully (over tightened tappets, carbon on
valve seat) the hot exhaust gases will erode (burn) away the thin part of
the valve causing compression loss and low performance.

After setting tappets, check your ignition timing and carburetter. A well
tuned engine can improve your balance of payments enabling more LR goodies
to be purchased

>Oh yeah, it's a pig on fuel too
leaded fuel here cost S$ 1.45 a litre. I normally take a deep breath then
fork out the cash at the filling station which is almost a daily affair :-(

I would have soonest swapped my motor for a 2.25l or V8. But the laws in
this country prohibit swaps, and a half yearly vehicle inspection make
temporary swaps unfeasible. Nevertheless, the 2.6 is a smoooooth engine.

Cheers
Lawrence
Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg)
SerIII 2.6l 109

Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine

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Subject: Re: buy LR in Holland?
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 96 12:53:37 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>If there are no oilleaks look inside if there is still oil. You know that
>trick with grease in the swivelballs?
How do you mean The Trick?

This is not the proper way to lubricate the swivels. The lubrication in 
the swivels is done by splashing with oil. And grease isn't liquid 
enough. If the filling point is replaced by a grease-thing: be 
carefull....

Normally if a Land-Rover is a non-leaking one there is no oil :-) , just 
joking but is is true...

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
     SOLD !!                             
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------
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