[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Lodelane@aol.com | 15 | Re: help |
2 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 9 | Deep in Georgia Mud |
3 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 18 | Re: Duct tape |
4 | Alastair [alastair.lyon@ | 32 | 6 cylinder blues... |
5 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 12 | Re: Duct tape |
6 | Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur | 45 | Re: Duct tape |
7 | lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.u | 37 | Re: 6 cylinder blues... |
8 | Greg Spitz [Gspitz@conce | 11 | [Auto Humor] |
9 | Greg Spitz [Gspitz@conce | 10 | [Fwd: [Fwd: FWD>Humor- You are what you]] |
10 | Peter Kutschera [peter@z | 23 | Re: Late IIa Clutch Master |
11 | ericz@cloud9.net | 13 | Re: Sacrilege |
12 | Jeff Berry [jaberry@i202 | 11 | Duty/Taxes |
13 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 23 | Re: Duty/Taxes |
14 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 23 | Re: Duct tape |
15 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 21 | Re: Duty/Taxes |
16 | Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b | 15 | Re: Duty/Taxes |
17 | RoverNut@aol.com | 34 | Fwd: half-shafts |
18 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 33 | Re: Duty/Taxes (It varies, can be zero) |
19 | "Bruce Horkings" [bruce@ | 15 | [not specified] |
20 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 40 | Re: Fwd: half-shafts |
21 | Solihull@aol.com | 20 | Re: Late IIa Clutch Master |
22 | nahari ofir [ofir_n@park | 25 | Re: Old Style Pith Helmet |
23 | nahari ofir [ofir_n@park | 26 | Re: Late IIa Clutch Master |
24 | nahari ofir [ofir_n@park | 22 | Re: Fwd: half-shafts |
25 | m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro | 33 | Re: Swivels |
26 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 15 | Non Land Rover Matter |
27 | rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa | 36 | Re: Fwd: half-shafts |
28 | rovah@agate.net (John Ca | 19 | Maine Rover Club(?) |
29 | bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman | 17 | LR models? |
30 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 17 | Re: quiet stage 1?? |
31 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 27 | Synthetic blend oils |
32 | ASFCO@aol.com | 17 | Re: Non Land Rover Matter |
33 | lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.u | 25 | Re: quiet stage 1?? |
34 | Tom Cooper [tomcoop@ozem | 29 | Re: Fwd: half-shafts |
35 | silkris@pacific.net.sg ( | 34 | Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l |
36 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 32 | Re: quiet stage 1?? |
37 | silkris@pacific.net.sg ( | 38 | Re: 6 cylinder blues... |
38 | Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m | 31 | [not specified] |
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 07:55:53 -0400 Subject: Re: help Talked recently to a buddy who was a helicopter mechanic for 15 plus years. The way they fought corrosion was use of the pea green zinc chromate primer and liberal use of aluminum washers under all fasteners. You still get some galvanic corrosion around the lip of the hole where the steel (yes and even stainless) fasteners go thru, however you don't the big ring of corrosion where the steel washer rests on the surface. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 08:33:14 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Deep in Georgia Mud John Dillingham, could you email me privately please? Thanks Dave B. dbobeck@ushmm.org ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 08:15:03 -6 Subject: Re: Duct tape > Don't call it dust tape. "It's gaffer's tape," - Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 23:24:00 +1000 From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au> Subject: 6 cylinder blues... Thought I'd take the oppertunity to quiz y'all about the infamous Rover 2.6 6 cylinder motor in my SIII... First, it has a really rattly tappet - the first mechanic I had told me he used to work for the Army, and that it should be fixed quick smart; before I burn those valves...now I've moved up Australia's coast, and my *new* mechanic rekons the Army set it up like that, to help it NOT burn those valves! I've had the car for about 3000 kms like it is, and had little trouble engine wise, so I'm figuring that I won't burn my valves with a rattly tappet. BTW, how do you burn the valves? Just really hard driving? Oh yeah, it's a pig on fuel too (what's new I hear you all asking), but my standard 70L tank only gets me 300 kms if I'm lucky! I know it's a 4wd, and it has the aerodynamics of a barn door, but it this acceptable? Look forward to you responses! -Alastair ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Probably the only teenager who WANTED a Land Rover as a first car ***************************************** *Alastair Lyon * ** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door * *2.6L Rover 6 cyl. * ***************************************** ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 14:25:22 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Duct tape >- >Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that. >Tom Rowe Tin knockers? No...I darent,I really darent....I think you boobed,Tom. Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:49:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Re: Duct tape >Don't call it dust tape. "It's gaffer's tape," corrects writer Don Belt, >who used the stuff to remove hundreds of baby ticks from his legs in There *is* a difference between the two types of tape. Duct tape is the shiny silver stuff that will stick to almost anything -- and if you buy the cheap surplus stuff, usually folds in on itself and is impossible to seperate. It's used for sealing heating duct joints. Once removed, it leaves a sticky residue on the surface to which it was originally attached. Gaffers tape is generally a matt finish -- so it doesn't reflect light in unwanted directions. It's also supposed to not stick to much of anything -- except itself. The idea is that when lighting gaffers are doing a location shoot, they can safely "gaff" cables along floors and walls and not have to worry about peeling the finish off when they remove the cable runs. Most of the time, it sort of works. When removed it mostly leaves surfaces and cables gunk free. I can see why the writer wanted people to know he was using gaffers tape to peel ticks. Duct tape would peel hair and skin as well. I carry a roll of a gaffers tape (black) in my camera bag, but duct tape is what lives in the Rover for repairs. Gaffers tape comes in handy if you need to temporarily tape a sign to the side of the Rover though -- unless of course you're of the "just use screws" persuasion. RoverOn! JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists) Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 14:47:54 Subject: Re: 6 cylinder blues... On Tue 22 Oct 96 (23:24:00 +1000), alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au wrote: >Thought I'd take the oppertunity to quiz y'all about the infamous Rover >2.6 6 cylinder motor in my SIII... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)] >*2.6L Rover 6 cyl. * >***************************************** 1st >Probably the only teenager who WANTED a Land Rover as a first car Oh no your not! 2nd Tappets - set them as it says on the rocker cover and manual, they should not rattle, because... 3rd Valves - valves get burned (prematurely) by exhaust gasses, which are obviously very hot, escaping "early" because the valve is open when it should'nt be. The point at which the valve opens is fine tuned by the tappet. Over tightening the tappets to shut them up if they rattle when set correctly will not help either in the long run. 4th Fuel - I used to reckon on 16 miles to the proper gallon with my 2.6, so I think if my sums are correct, then your about right. Hope this is useful. Richard -- --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------. |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_ | |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines| | | |\ | | | | |\| | | '---------------------------------------------' | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__ | lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:27:58 -0700 From: Greg Spitz <Gspitz@concentric.net> Subject: [Auto Humor] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit this is a great list of what you are by the auto you drive... please fill in for land rover --------------D032E04FC8 ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:29:07 -0700 From: Greg Spitz <Gspitz@concentric.net> Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: FWD>Humor- You are what you]] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit resent ... --------------55C864FA73A7 ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 16:59:08 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master Hello Scott! When I replaced the clutch master cylinder on my LHD SIIa about one year ago the greatest problem was to unscrew the pipes. Then you have to remove the 6 screws holding the pedal on the bulkhead. Now you can lift the pedal out. Rotate it by 90 Deg. But what do you mean: Brake Servo? I don't have one. Hope this helps a little Peter -- Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think.... Homepage: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:49:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Sacrilege On Tue, 22 Oct 96, lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists) wrote: >Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. Huh? I'm sorry, I can't hear you! Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 12:10:07 -0400 From: Jeff Berry <jaberry@i2020.net> Subject: Duty/Taxes Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars.. -- ***Jeff Berry, Richmond, VA----jaberry@i2020.net * '94 D90 * '94 FLSF ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:30:00 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes Jeff Berry wrote: > Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts > from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars.. > -- Technically it varies depending on the nature of the part. In my experience customs usually just rings up an averaged approximately 3%. When you say post do you mean UPS or air freight? UPS will want COD for the duty - they've covered it in the past for me and that's how they want it back :) Air freight is more hassle and you end up paying US Customs direct after shuttling paperwork. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:50:34 -6 Subject: Re: Duct tape > >- > >Tin knockers would probably disagree with him on that. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Tin knockers? No...I darent,I really darent....I think you boobed,Tom. > Mike Rooth Bad pun Mike :-) but I understand your inability to resist. Tin knockers here in the US is what we in the construction trades (or formerly in them) call the people who do the HVAC ductwork. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 11:57:20 -0700 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes At 12:10 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote: >Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts >from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars.. Should be about 2.5% .... US$7.50 Regards, -Michael (He's experimenting with ) (names again, sheesh!) ______ / Michael Carradine [__[__\== Blue Velvet 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover Roughmobile cs@crl.com __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^ '73 2.235m (was 88") _______________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 15:23:21 -0400 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes >At 12:10 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote: >Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts >from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars.. Mine was about 2%, my order was $2000 ($600 shipping) Mike Johnson N7WBO 74 SIII 88 (Chester) 175k daily driver 73 SIII 88 (Jezebel) everyone's gettin a piece http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 16:04:45 -0400 Subject: Fwd: half-shafts >. --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: half-shafts Date: 96-10-16 09:31:26 EDT From: RoverNut CC: RoverNut I've had my rovers for quite some time and I'm intrigued by this half-shaft stuff. I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how far can one drive like this? Are there speed limitations? Is it necessary to drop the rear prop shaft? Also, any clues as to when they might go? Is replacing them in advance a good idea? I just painted the IIa this weekend and it was one hell of a learning experience. If anybody is thinking about doing it, contact me soon for time and money saving tips. I suffered so you don't have to! ~ Wow, does it look great. For the first time since I've had it it's not 6 different colors. Alex Maiolo Chapel Hill NC '69 IIa - Marine Blue '89 Rangie - White ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 18:38:53 -0400 Subject: Re: Duty/Taxes (It varies, can be zero) Jeff inquires: >Does anybody know if there is a duty or tax associated with buying parts >from the UK via post? Approx. $300 US dollars.. My experience includes both the Post Office and FedEx. All but one of the orders sent via the Post Office have been delivered duty free. The one that duty was charged involved a trip to the Post Office and a $5 fee plus the small amount of duty. I think the one which was charged duty was large, heavy and looked "industrial". All the Federal Express orders have been charged duty, which is nominal, but FedEx also charges a $10 or so brokerage fee and shipping is also more expensive. They bill after the delivery rather than requiring payment up front. Some British firms prefer FedEx to their post office claiming lost parcel problems with the postal service, but I haven't had problems. Shipping from Britain isn't cheap, so factor shipping into potential savings. Air freight for a large order may be significantly cheaper per pound, but usually involves a trip to the airport and dealing with a broker. The cheapest shipping is as baggage on a flight. British Airways didn't care that our bags were 40 lbs over the weight limit, just that we didn't have too many bags. Northwest carried a SII front exhaust pipe with no complaints previously. David Cockey Rochester, MI ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Bruce Horkings" <bruce@nmit.vic.edu.au> Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 09:01:24 -1000 unsubcribe lro Regards, Bruce Horkings Computer Services Department Northern Melbourne Institute of TAFE St Georges Road, Preston, 3072, Victoria, Australia. email:bruce@nmit.vic.edu.au phone: +61 03 92701450 fax: +61 03 92701449 ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 20:02:26 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts Alex "RoverNut" Maiolo asks about halfshafts... >I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how >far can one drive like this? Are there speed limitations? Is it necessary to >drop the rear prop shaft? - Lock your front hubs (if you have free-wheeling hubs), Push down that yellow knob and off you go! OK.. If you have to drive a great distance, it's a good idea to drop the rear drive shaft *and* remove both half-shafts. That will keep the rear diff from grinding up the little bits of half-shaft that may be floating around. Obviously, if you break a half shaft somewhere it is impractical to do all that (like in the middle of the freeway at rush hour) you have no choice but to leave it in place, but the idea is to minimize any damage that might occur in the diff until you can replace the shafts. >Also, any clues as to when they might go? - Anytime when you least expect it! Mine broke going up my driveway.... >Is replacing them in advance a good idea? - Some people say to paint a straight white stripe down the length of the shaft and then periodically pulling the shafts to check for any twisting. Pulling the shafts is easy.. Remove the 6 bolts on the hub driving member and pull the hub with the shaft still attached. If you are really worried, you might as well pull them out now and check for any signs of stress.. Go ahead, do it now... we'll wait..... Cheers Mike Loiodice 166 W. Fulton St. 1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green Gloversville 1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo NY 12078 (USA) 7 1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue #:-}> 1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 20:13:03 -0400 Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master Scott, Here's my system for that fix. Unbutton the master cyl from the booster and ease it up out of the way. remove the brake pedestal and servo as a unit. twist it to get the pedal through the hole. undo the clutch mcyl pedestal the same way, pull it up a few inches to get to the pipe going to the slave cyl and remove in similar manner after undoing the pipe. then you can change it over on the bench. Reinstall is the reverse, except use something to seal the pedestals, I use latex caulk. I have a spare rebuilt if you need it. Cheers!! John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way! 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:05 +0200 From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il> Subject: Re: Old Style Pith Helmet At 10:31 PM 10/21/96 -0700, you wrote: >Jeffrey A Berg wrote: >> A while back someone (David Place?) was looking for an "old style" pith [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)] >they have is still not quite the style I need. It is the kind you often >see on TV worn by female bwana with a scarf flapping out of the head >band. It is a bit thicker at the rim than mine. Dave VE4PN Hi Iv'e got a helmet like that ex-Brithish Army with a date printed inside (1948). Also a leather pilot cape ,grey with "dog's ears", & a Jordan Legion helmet (dagger on top ,black cloth with sun protector(?) on the back. Also an Ostralian Army hat (folded on one side). I would like to know more aboat these . bye Ofir 1964 IIa 88 Ex-Israely Army (Ex-Jordan Legion) 1951 I 80 Ex-Border Patrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:07 +0200 From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il> Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master At 10:21 PM 10/21/96 -0700, you wrote: >Rokegem Luc wrote: >> M Scott Fugate wrote: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] >fastener or a thumb screw, you know the little thing with the flat top so >you can turn it. In this space I put the water bottle for my window >washer system. It really looks good and it serves a purpose. Dave VE4PN Hi Also did that ,I just lift off the wing on hinges when I need . The bolts near the windshield close it. Look ok & lasts . bye Ofir hinges _______|____________ I . | I I : | I I--____| I ------______I 1964 IIa 88 Ex Army 1951 I 80 Ex Border Patrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 01:09:20 +0200 From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il> Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts At 04:04 PM 10/22/96 -0400, you wrote: >>. >--------------------- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)] >'69 IIa - Marine Blue >'89 Rangie - White Hello I'm doing a frame over to my sII. Going to paint it bronze green .Body is in good shape but some cracks in the paint because of previous owners repairs. I sure would like some tips. Thank you Ofir 1964 Ex Military sIIa 88 1951 sI 80 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 10:39:14 +1100 From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik) Subject: Re: Swivels >Has anyone ever had their swivel pins re-chromed? If so, where did you have >it done, how much did it cost, and what are the benefits/draw backs from >having this done? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Yes I have recently bought a set of swivels - rechromed on exchange .ie you send the old ones back. In Australia the rechromed swivel housing costs AU$120 and I can't see any drawback from having ones rechromed, not yet anyway. It is however a lenghty job to replace them. It took me one day to do one side. I am hoping that now with the experience gained from the left hand side, the right hand side will only take me 3/4 of the day..... ha ha. When you chnage the swivel housing it is a good idea to change the pins, bushes and seals (whilst you have it apart). One thing that I did not do is get new oil seal retainers for the back of the housing (I should have done this as the old one os pretty rusty). Hope that this is useful. Mirek. SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D Miroslav Belik Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU UWS, Macarthur Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445 P.O. Box 555 FAX: 61 46 203025 Campbelltown, 2560 NSW Australia. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:19:08 -0400 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Non Land Rover Matter Can someone in the Boston area please help me. I am trying to find out where the Irish dance show "Riverdance" will be playing in Boston after Christmas sometime. First person who can correctly identify the theatre and supply me with a box office telephone number wins a GBP10 gift voucher for LRO SHOP plus a 1997 Pete Wilford Calendar. My six year old daughter is driving me mad as she wants to see this show badly. Many thanks Kevin ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:12:27 -0300 From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian) Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts >I've been told to switch into 4wd to get home should they ever snap, but how >far can one drive like this? Usually as far as needed or as far as you can stand. Are there speed limitations? Probably shouldn't go hot rodding it, but basicly its the same as regular two wheel drive only with the front two wheels instead of the rear two. Is it necessary to >drop the rear prop shaft? No. >Also, any clues as to when they might go? Usually none at all, but it will usually be when it is the most incovienient. >Is replacing them in advance a good idea? I don't think preventative replacement would serve any good purpose except to lower your bank account. Although, a new pair standing by with the necessary seals, etc. is always a relief when it does happen. Also, it's always best to replace both left and right as soon as possible because when one goes, the other is not far behind. >I just painted the IIa this weekend and it was one hell of a learning >experience. If anybody is thinking about doing it, contact me soon for time >and money saving tips. I suffered so you don't have to! Please, send me your tips. I've just purchased a couple of Series that may need painting and I've not undertaken that particular bit of fun. Thanks Steve Steven Paustian AKA Generalissimo Chaos (Al U. Minium) President, Flatland Rover Society 04/500 D90SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 22:09:39 -0400 (EDT) From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy) Subject: Maine Rover Club(?) This is a message primarily for all my fellow Rover owners living in Maine(be they native or not! ;-)). I am wondering why we have yet to form a Maine Rover club!? There are definitely plenty of us here, and I know that there are some winter outings that occur. If anyone on the list has interest in joining/organizing such an entity, let me know! Cheers! John John Cassidy Bangor, Maine USA 2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974 Series III 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 00:41:15 -0500 From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing) Subject: LR models? I am completely ignorant of Land Rover toys, so I was wondering if any of the avid collecters out there could point me in the direction of a small(matchbox-sized), relatively cheap model of a IIA 88" Station Wagon. Are there any dealers in the US? Thanks! Braman 1966 IIA 88" P.S. After spending the last 4 months sitting neglected behind my house while I was away, my rover started on the first turn of the engine! It's great to drive the beast again, I even enjoyed hitting my head on the roof at every pothole. ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Re: quiet stage 1?? Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 14:06:54 +0930 (CST) Richard writes: > Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. Say What? Where oh where is this quiet stage 1, aint no stage 1 I've been in. Actually Miroslav B has probably got one of the noisyest LR's ever a 3.9D stage 1 cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 00:21:51 -0500 Subject: Synthetic blend oils Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had any info on all these new synthetic blended oils out on the market now. I checked the motor oil FAQ, but it hasn't been updated yet. FWIW, I just changed to Valvoline 10W-40 synthetic blend for the winter in my '66 2.25L (it was all they had left at Target). My guess is that the percentage is not correspondent to the price increase over normal oils (i.e. 50% more than normal, but I doubt there is 50% synthetic oil in it) - basically, its some kind of marketing hype. However, if it improves the starting ability by keeping the oil somewhat liquified at -10F, it will be worth it... Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 02:02:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Non Land Rover Matter Kevin; Although I am currently located in Albany , NY I used to work on Long Island. Here's my suggestion... I would call the Claddagh Shop ( they're on Long Island in Queens call 718 information for the number ) ...they are an Irish inport place..they may know. I'm not Irish and don't have a clue as to who Riveerdance is but I'd be willing to bet they would know, or be willing to steer you in the right direction.... Hope this helps you ... Rgds Steve Bradke ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists) Date: Wed, 23 Oct 96 07:55:18 Subject: Re: quiet stage 1?? On Wed 23 Oct 96 (14:06:54 +0930), dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au wrote: >Richard writes: >> Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > ever a 3.9D stage 1 >cheers W Actually, I'm serious. After my 2.25 petrol and 2.6 the car is bliss. It is perfectly posssible to have a conversation without shouting at 85mph. Presumably the 3.9D means deisel, and is therefore a conversion, as Stage 1's only every came in 3.5 petrol. Richard -- --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------. |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_ | |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines| | | |\ | | | | |\| | | '---------------------------------------------' | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__ | lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 19:10:46 +1100 From: Tom Cooper <tomcoop@ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Fwd: half-shafts RoverNut@aol.com wrote: > >. > --------------------- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > I've had my rovers for quite some time and I'm intrigued by this half-shaft > stuff. What is the reccomended repar procedure for busted half-shafts. I broke one about 50km from the top of Cape York and had to fix it on the beach! I removed both shafts, then dropped out the diff, tried to clean out all the swarf then refitted. I thought the shafts were supposed to break in a place where there was no danger of metal getting into the diff. casing. If this is so couldn't someone invent something to fish out the broken end without taking out the diff? - perhaps a magnet on a stick? I got fed up of breaking shafts & fitted a Salisbury. On reflection I had developed a very bad driving habit - changing to first from reverse without stopping completely and using the transmission to change direction. Hardly suprising that I was breaking the shafts! Tom Cooper SIIA 109 4cyl petrol Brisbane Australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 17:54:52 +0800 (SGT) From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris) Subject: Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l Hi Richard, >Land Rover quoted me 2 ATDC for the 7.8:1 compression ration engine (serial nos >941.....) or TDC for the other compression, which I think is 8.2:1 According to the Land Rover SerIII Repair Operation Manual,(AKM3648) 2.6l petrol ignition timing, *static* as follolws: 7.8:1 compression (941...) 2deg ATDC using 90 octane fuel 6deg ATDC using 85 octane fuel 7.0:1 compression (944...) 2deg BTDC using 83 octane fuel TDC using 80 octane fuel I am using 98 octane on a 7.8:1 engine and have found that 2deg works best on those long highway routes, where you need to let the revs climb a bit to obtain good torque. 3deg is good for X-country but temperature climbs a bit on those long steep climbs on 4 X low X second gear.These are all dynamic (strobe) figures. Using the figures from the manual tend to have the engine a bit on the retard, with 98 octane fuel. Anyone have any comments Cheers, Lawrence Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg) SerIII 2.6l 109 Ps. I have discovered that TDC set statically will yield about 2deg BTDC last night. Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Re: quiet stage 1?? Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 19:29:40 +0930 (CST) Richard replies: > Actually, I'm serious. After my 2.25 petrol and 2.6 the car is bliss. It is > perfectly posssible to have a conversation without shouting at 85mph. Your 3.5 must be a lot sweeter than mine, at 85mph (over 4500 rpm) I havent got a hope of civilised conversation and the wind and tyre noise is horrific and the transfer case sounds like its going to jump through the floor.... Oh well Just think what I have to lok forward too when i finally fix it up > Presumably the 3.9D means deisel, and is therefore a conversion, as Stage 1's > only every came in 3.5 petrol. Well you just learnt something new... the 3.9D (isuzu) was indeed a factory fitment here in OZ, not that many around but very nice.... its the 4BD1 the same motor used in OZ 110's (pre-defender) and the OZ army Bushranger's. a turbo version is used in the 6x6 perentje's as another twist didnt the South africans have a six cylinder stage 1 equivalent ???? cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 1996 18:31:55 +0800 (SGT) From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris) Subject: Re: 6 cylinder blues... Hi Alastair, > NOT burn those >valves! I've had the car for about 3000 kms like it is, and had little >trouble engine wise, Try setting your tappets as follows: inlet.. 0.15mm (.006in.) engine hot (ouch!) exhaust...0.25mm (.010 in.) hot or cold I have mine set that way and the engine is so quiet, sometimes I accidentally recrank the starter, thinking I've stalled. You must ensure that all valves have SOME clearance. Chances are a valve run more than a short time with no clearance is burnt. All valves disperse heat through the valve seat onto the block. if for any reason the valve does not seat fully (over tightened tappets, carbon on valve seat) the hot exhaust gases will erode (burn) away the thin part of the valve causing compression loss and low performance. After setting tappets, check your ignition timing and carburetter. A well tuned engine can improve your balance of payments enabling more LR goodies to be purchased >Oh yeah, it's a pig on fuel too leaded fuel here cost S$ 1.45 a litre. I normally take a deep breath then fork out the cash at the filling station which is almost a daily affair :-( I would have soonest swapped my motor for a 2.25l or V8. But the laws in this country prohibit swaps, and a half yearly vehicle inspection make temporary swaps unfeasible. Nevertheless, the 2.6 is a smoooooth engine. Cheers Lawrence Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg) SerIII 2.6l 109 Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: buy LR in Holland? Date: Wed, 23 Oct 96 12:53:37 +0100 From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl> >If there are no oilleaks look inside if there is still oil. You know that >trick with grease in the swivelballs? How do you mean The Trick? This is not the proper way to lubricate the swivels. The lubrication in the swivels is done by splashing with oil. And grease isn't liquid enough. If the filling point is replaced by a grease-thing: be carefull.... Normally if a Land-Rover is a non-leaking one there is no oil :-) , just joking but is is true... Marc Rengers Groningen, Holland mr@grant.media-gn.nl #=====# #=========# |___|__\___ |____|__|__\___ | _ | |_ |} | _ \ | |_ |} "(_)""""(_)" "-(_)"""""""(_)" SOLD !! 1977 88" III HT 1987 110" StaWag Petrol Diesel 23-67-XB RH-12-PF also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine) ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 38 lines 1906 [forwarded 189 whitespace 385] Output: lines 1158 [content 713 forwarded 83 (cut 106) whitespace 334] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961023 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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