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From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 07:40:22 -500
Subject: Hi-Lift

Central Tractor has the Hi-Lift on sale currently for $41.99.  Picked 
one up when visiting family in NY this weekend.  Great price.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 07:43:54 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: primer on corrosion

Whenever two metal objects are mounted together, you must consider the
corrosion potential.

If two different metals come in contact, the effect is similar to a
battery. The chemically challenged can think of metals as "noble" or less
"noble" Silver is a noble metal, and iron isn't quite so noble. All metals
lie somewhere along the scale. If two dissimilar metals come in contact,
especially with a conductive medium in between, a battery results. If the
two metals lie at opposite ends of the scale, you have big-time corrosion,
and very fast. Handled correctly, this process can be used to remove
corrosion, or to plate rust-inhibiting layers on metal, as in tin plate. It
can also destroy the two metals at their point of interface. Every
conservator dreads trying to preserve an artifact that contains two
different metals in contact. It shouldn't be different on your Land Rover.
If a piece of copper tubing lies next to a piece of bare steel frame, and
it gets drenched every morning in brine from the road, you can guess the
rest.

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 14:39:26 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Mauritius

David kindly offers:

>Is there anybody in Mauritius reading this list? I will be going
>there  (via Jo'burg) at the end of the week (leaving UK on Thursday).
]If you have urgent need of Land Rover related bits (no frames or
]engines) let me know. I shall then be going on to Harare, but only
>staying a couple of days before heading for Cape Town.

Well, I'm in Cape Town, and I need two rear SW springs... :-) Seriously now,
do they still make those little repro Series II VIN plates? I can do with
one of those.

And lemme know when you're in town, we can go have a couple of beers (on
you, 'cause they're so cheap here, you'll get a round for less than a pound,
howzatsound? :)

Wouter
'59 II Stationwagon.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 07:40:42 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Help gearbox went BANG....

 I have one I'd practically
>give you,
John,
        If its in your way (series III tranny), I'd be happy to pay the
cost of shipping to Kansas City.

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com>
Subject: buy LR in Holland?
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 96 14:21:03 +0200 (DST)

Hi,

There is a '81 LR for sale here in Holland for $1250. (fl 2000,-)
It's a 5 door LR (tropical) petrol with a good resonable good 
engine and gearbox. But there are holes under the paddles and some 
in the chassis.
I like to know if it is a good buy? Please let me know.

Joost Kramer
kramerj@ce.philips.nl

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 08:19:24 -6
Subject: Re: help

Mark Hardig asks:
> I'm sure this has been covered on the list before, but I'm trying to learn all
> I can about  the effects of dielectric corrosion and how they can be
> countered. Could I get some of you chemically inclined folks to 
help, 
snip
I haven't been chemically inclined since the 60's but I'll do what I 
can. ...uh, what were we talking about?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 09:13:52 -0400
From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Chester wants Jezebels body...

Think I try something.  I have two bodies for my SIII and am undecided
as to how to paint it.  Or I should say traditional or something a bit
different.  So I offer this I'll let you decide for me.
ONLY one request,  yote once.  I'll post the real numbers weekly or so.

I have setup a page for the tabulation and a picture of each of my
choices http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm/s3vote.htm

-- 
Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 08:23:10 -6
Subject: Re: help

Mark,

>Like are stainless fasteners cool, and if so what
> kind? is one type of aluminum better to patch with than another? won't the
> zinc used in galvanization cause even more heartache? Just curious and I'm
> sure there are those who know.

I use stainless whenever I can. I just bought a bunch of  type 308 & 
316 fastners from McMaster Carr. The galv fasteners that are oem seem 
to work well as long as they are in good shape. The aftermarket stuff 
(zinc coated) are worthless.
If it will do the job, use aluminum to aluminum.
The main thig is to keep unlike metals seperated.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 10:09:17 -0400
Subject: Discovery springs, shocks, etc

I'm looking for the guy who was selling springs, shocks, airdam,endcaps, etc.
I've been trying to email him, but I always get the RETURNED/DAEMON bit.
I WANT THOSE SPRINGS! So, If you're reading this, contact me at:
Rovernut@AOL.com

Thanks!
Alex Maiolo

89 Rangie
69 SIIa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 07:33:55 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

At 10:26 PM 10/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... 
>>blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... 
>And a bunch of people responded..

But so far, I haven't seen what might be the solution (or would be on a
modern car) -- The bulb on the blinkblinkblink side is burned out.  That's
the way my girlfriend's mazda and my sister's fordtron let you know the
bulb's gone...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: echo@pacific.net.sg
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 23:35:03 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l

To all those that adviced about valve seats,Thank You. I am currently trying
out unleaded fuel on my 2.6l (the cheaper price of unleaded was a great
motivator in making the switch, especially for the 2.6l) I find that I get
more power from this fuel as compared to my regular 98 octane leaded petrol.
Strange, everyone I talk to tells me the opposite.

Also, does anyone know the dynamic timing for the 2.6? I find mine runs best
at 2 degrees BTDC ( @ 700rpm with vaccum advance detached when measuring).
My engine gets good power only at the upper rev range, and only after half
an hour of running. I have absolutely no power and the engine misfires from
startup  till the first half hour's drive. I have replaced vaccum and
centrifugal advance, rebuilt the carb, cleaned air filters and new plugs. My
exhaust pipe is WHITE after a long high speed run, and light grey in normal
city driving. I have just rebuilt the engine.

At 03:09 PM 10/19/96 +0100, you wrote:

>the engine swap from petrol to diesel,

I had a diesel once that rattled, smoked and knocked regardless of the
amount of timing adjustment that I have tried. Compression was good, and the
motor did not burn oil. What else then? Rebuilt fuel pump, no good. Finally,
traced it down to the camshaft, which was a petrol cam. Replaced the cam and
it runs so smooth I could have sworn I had a petrol engine. Also check if
you have proper diesel crankshafts, although cheaper, petrol cranks are not
as tough as diesel cranks, and a con-rod through the block may be the result
of such cost savings

Thought you might like to know,

Cheers,
Lawrence
Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg     Silver Kris)
SIII 109 2.6l

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 17:46:22 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Sacrilege

Hi All

Blasphemy, Folly !!

ASFCO@aol.com said
Re: Super Dynamat & noise cancellers

> I would have been able to hear the guy talking next to me without shouting and
> would have gotten up there without the usual LR Headache from all that NOISE. 

_Cancel_ all that lovely original noise ?? Are you crazy ?

I personally like the door top rattle myself, guaranteed migraine within about 
1 1/2 minutes. Oh and I was in a SWB once with an overdrive howl so loud that it 
could have caused soft tissue damage (and not the kleenex variety !)

RE: 100% power loss (Help gearbox went BANG...)
John Dillingham says: Find yourself a nice series three all syncro box

But I had always heard/read that the 2a box was stronger, and was the preferred 
transmission when upgrading the engine for something stronger (aarrgghh more 
sacrilege)

Any thoughts ?

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 12:04:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Samantha Z. Harris" <sharris@mtholyoke.edu>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

please cancel this subscription

thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 12:43:52 -0400
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Late IIa Clutch Master

Gang,

The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts to
be removed to get at the dang thing?  Do I remove the wing or the Brake
Servo?  In the mean time, I'm just wearing my old boots and topping it up
frequently.  

Yours Inquisitively,

Scott Fugate

1970 IIa
1989 RR

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: Late IIa Clutch Master
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 96 12:58:00 PDT

Now we're discussing the political views of prostitutes?  I thought there   
was LR content here...
:)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ----------
From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Monday, October 21, 1996 12:43 PM
Subject:  Late IIa Clutch Master

Gang,

The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts   
to
be removed to get at the dang thing?  Do I remove the wing or the Brake
Servo?  In the mean time, I'm just wearing my old boots and topping it up
frequently.

Yours Inquisitively,

Scott Fugate

1970 IIa
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 10:13:18 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Chains vs. straps/cable - myth??

On the subject of vehicle recovery, someone (Tom W ??) recently wrote about
being concerned over using chains for recovery because of the more 
drastic consequences of failure.  I've read this several 
times in different posts, and I'm not sure I agree with it. 

I have some experience that chains are safer than cable or straps.  
I'd be very interested if anyone has contradictory experience or technical reasons 
why straps or cables are safer than chains.  Anyone?

In my experience, when chains fail there is a brief period prior to failure when
the chain begins to stretch.  This is noticeable and lasts about 1-2 seconds.
When the critical link fails, the chain drops to the ground under it's own weight.

On the other hand, cables I've seen snap tend to flail/whip around until their
energy is expended.

I believe that the reasons for this are two fold:

1. Chains do not inherently store much energy, being relatively inelastic so there's 
not much to release.

2. Chains are heavier to what tension exists moves the chain much less further.

The lighter, smaller diameter, and flexibility of cable turns it into a potentially 
lethal flail. I'd imagine that tow straps are similar to cable although less likely to inflict
instantaneously lethal damage.  

I actually carry all types for use, and, of course, most frequently tend to use winch cable
and a tree/tow strap because of ease of use :)

cheers,

Jeremy  (not-a-rigger :) )

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 21 Oct 1996 18:15:46 +0100
From: Paul Daintree <paul@wda.u-net.com>
Subject: hi lift mounting

Just a quick point.

I have a 5foot Jackall 8000, when I bought it I also bought the mounting kit.
I made up a couple of box sections out of a steel shelf to take the mounting kit,
this was the pop riveted to the bulkhead behind the drivers seat.
I know you will not beleive me but it does fit, but it is a bit tricky to get it in and out.
Saying that it keeps it dry, out of sight from theives, and stops it flying around.

Andrew 1984 SIII LWB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 11:02:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Bulkhead

Good Morning,
        Just a quick question regarding the rear bulkhead on an 88 (behind
the seats). For those of us who are over 6FT tall driving an 88 can be a
little cramped. After sitting in a defender 90 I noticed the rear bulkhead
is gone and replaced by a brace that ties in the rear tub. I would think
that this would allow the driver to move the seat back further and tilt the
seat back giving the driver more room. Is this the case?
        Before I get my Sawzall out I thought I would pose this question to
those on the list. My questions are:

Has anybody done this on an 88and what was involved?
Do the 90's Have seats that go back further and recline?
Is it worth the idea of performing surgery on my beloved 88?

As always,
Rover on,
Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover 
1972 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Chains vs. straps/cable - myth??
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 10:46:16 -0700

Chains are probably safer than straps/cables if one breaks for the
reasons cited below, however, chains can be brutal to vehicles at both
ends when used to pull on for the same reason (i.e. inelasticity). I
think the key is knowing which tool is the best for which application.
Chains (e.g. choke chains) are good for securing things (logs, bumpers,
axles, etc) things that can be scarred or damaged, that is (use a nylon
strap around a tree) while cables & straps are good for pulling. Using a
chain between bumpers to yank someone out of a ditch is likely to only
remove the bumper from the ditch. leaving the car.
In any case, you should rig such that there's no undue friction on the
line (e.g. straps rubbing against bumpers and frame components, cables
rubbing against rocks, etc.) and use blanket(s) on cables to provide
addtional mass to keep whipping to a minimum. According to someone who
used to do lots of rigging in the Navy, the most likely point of failure
was the anchor point (e.g. shackle, hook, hook attachment, mounting
point on the vehicle, etc) not the cable. YMMV, of course. 

-- Bob W.
>----------
>From: 	Jeremy Bartlett[SMTP:bartlett@slip.net]
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 50 lines)]
>cheers,
>Jeremy  (not-a-rigger :) )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 13:55:14 -0400
From: "Mike Johnson (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Chains vs. straps/cable - myth??

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> I'd be very interested if anyone has contradictory experience or technical reasons why straps or cables are safer than chains.  Anyone?

-F-L-E-X-
Just thinking to myself.  You never see anyone chain jumping,  always
bungee jumping.  Same principal?  I like the recovery strap to round off
the edges for the JERK.  Either way use a saddle over the thing in case
it breaks.
-- 
Michael E. Johnson
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm
johnsonm@rl.af.mil  (work)
johnsonm@borg.com   (play)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: The Silent Landie-Noise Cancellation
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 96 14:51:00 DST

A search of the US Patent office produced 41 patents related to "Active 
Noise Cancellation System"
 ranging from Hearing Aids to Mufflers. Try your own searches at 
www.uspto.gov

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Imagine an almost silent Land Rover
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 96 14:25:00 DST

Just pack everything including the "acoustic sink"

This was the first result of a search on sound cancellation.

Office of Intellectual Property

Active Acoustic Sink

TITLE:          ID 94-077 Active Acoustic Sink

AUTHORS:        Clark Radcliffe

ABSTRACT:       This invention uses "sound generating" devices to absorb
                acoustic energy.  The invention is a "stand-alone" device
                which electronically absorbs all sound that impinges it's
                surface.  The device acts as an "Active Acoustic Sink" (AAS)
                in that no sound power acting on its surface is reflected.
                This action reduces acoustic resonances of enclosed spaces
                at all active frequencies and at all locations in the space.

ADVANTAGES:     Previous approaches to active control of sound have 
concentrated
                on "Active Sound Cancellation" as contrasted with the 
"Active
                Sound Absorption" disclosed here.  The objective of the 
Active
                Acoustic Sink absorption technology disclosed here is to 
create a
                local sound field where acoustic power is always absorbed. 
 The
                AAS does not cancel the noise measured at a microphone 
sensor.
                The microphone is used to determine the requirements for 
that
                surface to absorb sound.  The difference is that the AAS
                technology can absorb much more sound than is possible with
                conventional passive foam, fiber or mass treatments.

STATUS:         No applications filed.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 21:01:42 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: metal-to-metal

The effect of corrosion at the point where steel and aluminium meet on
the LR is the major price we all pay for the otherwise non-rusting
aluminium body.

I have rebuilt both my series III's and in the process only encountered
bodywork problems where alu/steel meet. This has inspired a new strategy
on all mt rebuilds, the oldest of which show marked improvement after
several year further use.

I try to minimise all alu to steel contact, by bushing bodywork fixings
so that steel bolts and chassis do not have galvanic contact with alu
bodywork, or by seperating alu-and-steel conbtact points, such as the
body-mountings onto the chassis, with thick rubber strips.

Difficult bolts, like the 10 which hold the box onto the rear
cross-member, have been replaced with steel-bars, with threaded holes in
the place of loose nuts. Again here, a strip of rubber is between the
bar and the aluminium bodywork, and there is a rubber strip between the
front of the alu-bodywork and the five flanges which rise up from the
cross-member. Although galvanic connection is still present via the
bolts, the amount of contact is severlel limited by the rubber strips,
and the idea of a fixed bar instead of 10 loose nuts, makes fitting very
easy when you have no-one to help you. The same principle is applied at
the front of the box, wher it mounts onto the chassis under the seats.
Seat-belt mountings are bushed with nylon washers.

other weak points, such as where steel fittings are mounted to the
inside of the wings (brake-servo vaccum reservoir etc) are similarly
remounted with a rubber "gasket" to limit A-S contact.

Besides reducing corrosion, such measures have made the series III's
easy to strip for their annual paint job, and big rust problems on the
chassis are a thing of the past.

Until 5 years ago, I had chassis members treated with some sort of
tar-like gunge (underseal, tectyl, waxoyl) this did little to help rust
that developed unseen behind the underseal, and was almost impossible to
render repairs to the chassis due to the danger of fire when welding.

When I last replaced the rear-chassis portion with new components, we
used several days to strip the entire vehicles of any underseal
compounds, cleaning and priming thouroughly, and painting with several
coats of marine quality black paint. The paint is redone every summer,
it takes about a day, and renders the cars almost new underneath.

The rear-body rebuilds resulted in replacing the pressed-steel profile
cross-members under the rear floor with box-steel - again rubber
insulated from the aluminium, and rubber shock absorbed from the
chassis.

The corroded rear floors have been replaced with thick (5mm) aluminium
deck-plating, which is fitted after chassis-mounting from above - thus
the floor plate can be removed to enable getting at the chassis and fuel
tank from above, makes service, painting and cleaning easier. The
alu-deck plate idea has also been applied in the cabins to replace the
thin alu floor plates. Liberal amounts of silicone compound are applied
between aluminium and frame. All alu-deck plates are held in position
with "Opel-screws" the self-tapping screws and push-on threaded holes
which LR use in the cabin floor. these can be quickly loosened with a
nr.10 nut-spinner.

At last I have two rust free (almost) Series III's of 20 year vintage.
Of course there is still problems with the firewall, and some
superficial rust appears down-under, but regular washing and painting,
and galvanic seperation and insulation has helped matters a lot, and the
lack of underseal compounds make welding easy and safe.

I wash the motors once or twice a month with a hich-pressure jet and oil
remover - and afterwards liberally apply WD40 to all mechanical parts to
avoid rust. The motor and associated chamers are always clean and easy
to work on, all bolts and fittings are easy to loosen, and the
cleanliness, whilst not being strictly "original" to the series family,
means that leaks of all sorts are spotted and located quickly.

It means a little extra work throughout the year on a routine basis, but
eliminates sudden problems and big bills when undertaking overhauls.

It is important to add earth bonding (copper-cable) between bodywork and
chassis to ensure adequate earth continuity, as the natural earth has
been somewhat destroyed by the rubber insulation.

And the future? New springs and shocks all round next year, two gearbox
overhauls (I have full synchro on one set of gears, just they are in two
cars at the moment), news seats in the 109", and hopefully a winch or
two to polish up the front and tide me well for the danish winter.

Anyone in Denmark is welcome to drop by for a chat!

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 21:36:39 +0001
Subject: Re: turn signals...

> >>blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... 
> >>blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... 
> >And a bunch of people responded..
 
> But so far, I haven't seen what might be the solution (or would be on a

I have a gone blinker on the left wing. Cadence is the same left or 
right. ??. Relay is stock. (Not stuck).

Hazard relay is not. Real heavy duty. The size of a good snaps glass.
Goes "ping-PONng..ping-PONng..(etc)". I wonder where it came from.

BTW, here's a good one. Some time ago i noticed that i couldn't blink 
to the right. I could blink to the left but the beams (Hella 2000) 
went on. People kept flashing me when i turned left. Of course i 
started looking at the wrong end of the wires first. When i finally 
reached the tentacle switch it appeared that a wire had broken off. 
One of those rings that are riveted on. I went and bought some very 
small bolts and nuts, filed the rivet off and bolted the wire back 
on. I even managed to enlarge the holes in the four tiny copper 
blades. This was like performing a sex-change operation on an ant.
Next time i think i'll buy a new switch mechanism. 

...unless i can find a way to fix it.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 15:17:24 -6
Subject: Re: Chains vs. straps/cable - myth??

Cable and nylon straps have a much higher working load than chain. 
At least when comparing your typical cable or nylon strap to any 
chain you'd want to cary around. But I mainly use a nylon starp to 
prevent vehicle damage. Towing or pulling another vehicle can produce 
tremendous shock loads if they happen to move at different rates. 
Like the driver of a stuck vehicle decides to "help" by giving their 
car some gas, it moves forward a bit, then spins again. WHAM! when 
the slack is gone.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:40:59 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

M Scott Fugate wrote:

> The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
> somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts to
> be removed to get at the dang thing? 

A friend of my has a very simple solution, when he has to change a
clutch master on a LHD.  You take a big scissors and cut away a piece
off the wing.  When you'r done thake a greatter piece and use 
some rivets and paint to put everything back together.
Have fun,

-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

             _______________                
            //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
      ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
     |   __            __   |#   
     |__/  \__________/  \__|    
        \__/          \__/    
http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    
     \|/
    ( ..)                
--oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: FW: Calgary Rovers
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 96 16:07:00 mdt

Hello all!
my first posting though I've been lurking around the darker (lucas?) edges 
of the list for some time now. Hope this works.
      Trying to organise a Rover meet here in Calgary (alberta, Canada)  for 
the first w/end in Nov. - sat. 2 Nov. to be precise. We aim to get as many 
locals out as possible and will probably head out to the foothills (Maclean 
Creek?) for some (hopefully) non-damaging offroading, possibly overnight. 
Please email me direct & with a bit of luck we'll get something going.
     On an unrelated note a friend of mine has a SIII 2.25l diesel which is 
currently experiencing oil pressure problems: oil pressure fluctuates at 
constant rpm especially when it is warmed up. The motor was rebuilt approx. 
1 yr ago and does not use any oil. Anybody got any ideas??
Thanks in advance, hope to see you soon
Brian Tuffs
'66 SWB s/wagon
'84 Toyota L/cruiser BJ60

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 18:27:12 -0400
From: Andrew Steele <ad158@dayton.wright.edu>
Subject: Parts wanted (engine&springs)

Hello,

The plan to change the inoperative water damaged 2.25 to a diesel is slow
going.  Nissan diesels are available from late 1970's Internation Scouts, but
going price is around $2,000 with very high parts costs.

So, if anyone has a 2.25 for a series III (or diesel) for sale in the midwest,
or springs, I would be glad to hear from you.  I understand an engine is
available in Canada (thanks for offering it) but transportation/trucking costs
are 3x the cost of the engine.  

Andrew

87 RR with 1 Great Dane
73 Series III 88   (Needs lots of help!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 15:11:33 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Chester wants Jezebels body...

At 09:13 AM 10/21/96, Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> wrote:
:Think I try something.  I have two bodies for my SIII and am undecided
:as to how to paint it.  Or I should say traditional or something a bit
:different.  So I offer this I'll let you decide for me.
:ONLY one request,  yote once.  I'll post the real numbers weekly or so.
:
:I have setup a page for the tabulation and a picture of each of my
:choices http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm/s3vote.htm

 Hi Mike, ...nice web page!

 My daugther (3) says "that's the new one, and that's the old one",
 referring to the blue and zebra renditions respectively.  Hey, since
 you can't make up your mind, why not a comination ...blue zebra stripes!

-Michael

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                             Blue Bear
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)__...o^^^ '73 SerIII 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 09:31:44 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: Re: My BFG tyres...

Thanks to all who responded about fitting my up SIII with BFG tyres...

I'm not driving in the mud because the car is in a tropical location, with
VERY little rain...therefore we get NO mud! (I wish we did though!) I'm
never up in this tropical desert over the rainy season, so I never get to
drive the car when there is mud about!

Besides. I have that 6 cylinder engine...can't afford to drive it further
than the shops ;-)

Cheers,
Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.                                        *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 20:24:00 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Duct tape

>because duct tape is a rare if available commodity in Africa...

A blurb from the November "National Geographic":

Don't call it dust tape.  "It's gaffer's tape," corrects writer Don Belt, 
who used the stuff to remove hundreds of baby ticks from his legs in 
Belize...Photographer Chris Johns reattached his Land Rover's fuel tank in 
South Africa.  Now he won't venture on an assignment without at least 20 
rolls in his bags.  Says Chris, "It's as important to my job as film.

Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 20:51:18 -0900 (PDT)
From: Chris Murray <murraycm@bc.edu>
Subject: Parts Swap?? 

Hello!

I've got a IIA88 which i swapped from right to left hand drive.  
All I need now is a left hand shift lever.  Anyone need a right 
hand one?

Also, my speedo recently exploded, with springs everywhere.  A 
fellow lro gave up his spare 109 diesel speedo for me.  my 
original had lights in the unit, main beam, oil press. and choke, 
but this one does not.  while it works fine, i would like to see 
these lights.  Anyone need one w/o the lights? (i have 16in 
wheels_)

i'm in boston, mass.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:41:47 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Chester wants Jezebels body...

At 03:11 PM 10/21/96 -0700, Michael Carradine said:

> My daugther (3) says "that's the new one, and that's the old one",
> referring to the blue and zebra renditions respectively.  Hey, since
> you can't make up your mind, why not a comination ...blue zebra stripes!
>-Michael

A "friend" of mine insists on "Barney" colors (for the ROW that Purple with
green dots),  I THINK NOT.  :)

Mike Johnson  N7WBO

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  175k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:45:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Old Style Pith Helmet

A while back someone (David Place?)  was looking for an "old style" pith
helmet to replace one that was wearing out.  At that time I mistakenly
pointed them to Brigade Quartermasters as a source -- unfortunately, of the
"new" rounder style.

While leafing through the latest U.S. Cavalry catalog this evening, I came
upon the following "new" item.  I wouldn't call it inexpensive, but if you
want it, here it is...

==AD EXCERPT==

1882 Pith Helmet
An exact replica of the 1882 Pith Helmet worn by the Victorian Cavalry in
the Boer and Punjabi Wars, the Foreign Legion in North Africa and the U.S.
Marines in 1880.  It's hand-crafted of cotton twill and low-density cork
with a genuine leather adjustable inner headband and chin strap.  The
pugaree (bandana) is traditionally hand-layered in light Indian cotton.
Made in Zimbabwe.  Sizes 7, 7&1/4, and 7&1/2.  Weight: 12 ozs.  Khaki.

Catalog # N 16399     Price: US$79.95
(This item can't be shipped to Taiwan.)
==

U.S. Cavalry can be reached from the U.S.A. and Canada toll-free at
1-888-888-7228  International orders: 1-502-351-1164.  For more
information, but unfortunately no photo of the helmet, you can visit the
WWW site, http://www.uscav.com/index.html

The usual disclaimer: I don't work for these people nor do I own any stock.
I have ordered from them in the past -- the British MOD surplus "101 FC"
pick and shovel set, and found them to be reputable, and the merchandise to
be as advertised.  As always, YMMV.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 23:18:13 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

Scott Fugate asks...

>The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
>somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts to
>be removed to get at the dang thing?
-

Scott..
Since yours is a late IIa, you have a clutch master cyl with its own
resevoir, right?
If so, probably the easiest thing to do is to remove the left-side wing. If
you feel real lucky, just remove the mud shield from under the wing. Unbolt
the line from the clutch master and unbolt the clutch pedal mount from
inside the cab - six bolts and a spring there. You *can* work the complete
clutch pedal and attached master cylinder out from under the wing - I did my
SerIII that way.

When you re-assemble it all, make sure you adjust for the the correct amount
of free play in the pushrod on the master cylinder. Also, you really should
flush out the hydraulic lines and the slave cylinder and start with fresh
fluid. If the master cylinder is leaking due to deteriorated seals, you may
want to consider rebuilding or replacing the slave as well.. It will
probably be next to go.

Cheers
 
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:28:25 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Duct tape

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> >because duct tape is a rare if available commodity in Africa...
> A blurb from the November "National Geographic":
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>       |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
>       *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

I found a good use for duct tape over the weekend.  I broke the shock 
bolt off in the tube in the frame.  No amount of beating it or heating it 
would work. I jacked the vehicle up on a slant and covered the open end 
with duct tape.  Into this cup I placed a liberal amount of Liquid 
Wrench.  The next day I was able to beat it out with a drift.  By the 
way, does anyone out there know what Liquid Wrench is.  It sure works 
well.  I now put it on everything I want to remove but a day before and 
it always comes off.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:31:33 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Old Style Pith Helmet

Jeffrey A Berg wrote:
> A while back someone (David Place?)  was looking for an "old style" pith
> helmet to replace one that was wearing out.  At that time I mistakenly
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
>         I can see it no other way.
>                 --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

Thanks, I talked to them and now have the catalogue, but I think the one 
they have is still not quite the style I need.  It is the kind you often 
see on TV worn by female bwana with a scarf flapping out of the head 
band.  It is a bit thicker at the rim than mine.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:21:55 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

Rokegem Luc wrote:
> M Scott Fugate wrote:
> > The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)]
>     ( ..)
> --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

I have also done the cutting thing but better than solid replacement, I 
use a piano hinge and after cutting the little lip off, I make it so the 
bolt on the firewall holds the hinged lid down.  I use a Zuse (sp?) 
fastener or a thumb screw, you know the little thing with the flat top so 
you can turn it.  In this space I put the water bottle for my window 
washer system.  It really looks good and it serves a purpose. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 22:23:42 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: FW: Calgary Rovers

Brian Tuffs wrote:
> Hello all!
> my first posting though I've been lurking around the darker (lucas?) edges
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> '66 SWB s/wagon
> '84 Toyota L/cruiser BJ60

Get in touch with Melcolm Engleman from Onaway.  I was just in Edmonton 
today and he mentioned he likes this sort of thing.  He has a few friends 
who might join you.  Wish I wasn't 900 miles away.  Dave VE4PN Selkirk, 
Manitoba

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: buy LR in Holland?
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 07:54:48 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi Joost,
| There is a '81 LR for sale here in Holland for $1250. (fl 2000,-)
| It's a 5 door LR (tropical) petrol with a good resonable good 
| engine and gearbox. But there are holes under the paddles and some 
| in the chassis.
Difficult to say from here, but from what I've seen around here,
1250$ seem a bit cheap for a halfway good LR. In southern Germany
you usually get a pile of crap ready for the breakyard for under 
5 or 6000 DM (4000$).
A shot frame is the least desirable if you don't want to just
use some good parts of the vehical in another LR. You can halfway
easily change every part, but for the frame or the bulkhead you
have to take the whole truck to pieces.
If you are not sure, take a good lamp and someone who has good 
knowledge about welding with you and spend half an hour under the 
Landy.
Hope this helps a bit.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com>
Subject: Re: buy LR in Holland?
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 12:03:35 +0200 (DST)

Franz Parzefall wrote:

> Difficult to say from here, but from what I've seen around here,
> 1250$ seem a bit cheap for a halfway good LR. In southern Germany
> you usually get a pile of crap ready for the breakyard for under 
> 5 or 6000 DM (4000$).

Maybe it's not halfway good. Because the breaking is poor (oil from 
axles), the bulkhead has holes to the right front wheel, the exhaust pipe 
is bad and all the hidden problems.
But the engine seems okay and the gearbox sound good. The frame is not to 
bad (first look).

So it's difficult to decide....

Joost Kramer
kramerj@ce.philips.nl

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: buy LR in Holland?
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 12:18:50 +0200 (MET DST)

 Joost Kramer wrote:
| Maybe it's not halfway good. Because the breaking is poor (oil from 
| axles), the bulkhead has holes to the right front wheel, the exhaust pipe 
| is bad and all the hidden problems.
oh oh! Sounds like a lot of work. You want a restauration projekt or a LR
that is soon on the road (and of course, off the road)?

| But the engine seems okay and the gearbox sound good. The frame is not to 
| bad (first look).
As I said, spend half an hour under the truck with a good lamp and then expect
that you just saw half of the rust.

| So it's difficult to decide....
If you're not sure, have a look at several others. It took my nearly a year
to get what I wanted.
If there are no oilleaks look inside if there is still oil. You know that
trick with grease in the swivelballs?

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 07:46:34
Subject: Re: Sacrilege

On Mon 21 Oct 96 (17:46:22 +0200), pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it wrote:
>Hi All

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)]
>sacrilege)
>Any thoughts ?
>Paul.
Want a quiet Landie? Yes? Buy a Stage 1 V8 - lovely and quiet. 

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 07:53:53
Subject: Re: Servo Brakes and Valve Seats of 2.6l

On Mon 21 Oct 96 (23:35:03 +0800), echo@pacific.net.sg wrote:
>To all those that adviced about valve seats,Thank You. I am currently
>trying out unleaded fuel on my 2.6l (the cheaper price of unleaded was
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)]
>Lawrence
>Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg     Silver Kris)
>SIII 109 2.6l
Land Rover quoted me 2 ATDC for the 7.8:1 compression ration engine (serial nos
941.....) or TDC for the other compression, which I think is 8.2:1 

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 07:40:14
Subject: Re: turn signals...

On Mon 21 Oct 96 (07:33:55), sinasohn@crl.com wrote:
>At 10:26 PM 10/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>>blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>San Francisco, California                 
>http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/
It's not just them, it is an international legal requirement that when an
indicator bulb fails, the affected circuit should flash at twice normal speed.
This is usually acheived by skullduggery in the fuse box.

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

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