[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d | 32 | Kudos to WARN |
2 | wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d | 2 | [not specified] |
3 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 16 | Legality and grey market LRs |
4 | "Steve Reddock" [steve_r | 23 | Soft top for sale |
5 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 50 | Re: Range Rover frame rot |
6 | iharper@afm.org | 16 | Cooking |
7 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 5 | Re: Range Rover frame rot |
8 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 52 | Re: Reversing switch |
9 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 15 | Re: Solenoid (again) |
10 | "Niel J. P. Fagan" [NF@o | 11 | Re: Another RAV4 description |
11 | jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c | 16 | tic tic noise |
12 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 11 | Re: Another RAV4 description |
13 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 29 | Re: theroetical question |
14 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 52 | RE: Range Rover frame rot |
15 | rmodica@east.pima.edu | 22 | 1967 SIIA 88 4 Sale |
16 | wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d | 13 | Re: Exhauster assembly |
17 | [@lucent.lucent.com | 27 | 3.8 GM engine (mis)information |
18 | David Olley at New Conce | 25 | Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX |
19 | David Olley at New Conce | 25 | Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX |
20 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 24 | jfhess'dormobile light grounds |
21 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 11 | Roller Fairlead vs Hawse |
22 | Wayne Haight [whaight@ho | 34 | Series IIA ??'s |
23 | David_R@interramp.com (D | 25 | Theoretical Dormobile question |
24 | David_R@interramp.com (D | 23 | Re: Misc. Sightings |
25 | debrown@srp.gov | 40 | 109 is back to "normal," what ever that is! |
26 | "Tom Rowe" [WI.Center.fo | 23 | Re: Roller Fairlead vs Hawse |
27 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 45 | Re: Series IIA ??'s |
28 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 18 | Re: Theoretical Dormobile question |
29 | Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr | 17 | Re: Another RAV4 description |
30 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 38 | Interesting CA Paint Code Experience |
31 | William Caloccia [calocc | 8 | [not specified] |
32 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 18 | Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience |
33 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 20 | Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience |
34 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | Transfer woes |
35 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 39 | Re: 3.8 GM engine more (mis)information |
36 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 32 | Re: Theoretical Dormobile question |
37 | Greg Moore [gmoore@islan | 16 | Re: Theoretical Dormobile question |
38 | daviscar@concentric.net | 24 | For Sale |
39 | CarDoctor@gnn.com (Rober | 22 | Pontiac VS Buick V6 Engine |
40 | Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm | 27 | Salvage Titles/Restorations |
41 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za () | 41 | Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII |
42 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 33 | Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX |
43 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 19 | Re: Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the week |
44 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 38 | Re: Series IIA ??'s |
45 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 22 | Engine Oil Changes |
46 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 13 | Re: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII |
47 | David Olley at New Conce | 26 | Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX |
48 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 22 | Re: Engine Oil Changes |
49 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 33 | Re: Engine Oil Changes |
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:23:00 +0200 From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Subject: Kudos to WARN Hi all We on the net tend to knock companies that offer bad service much more readily than we complement companies on good service received. So, for balance: I asked WARN industries (They're on the web, BTW) about my M12 free wheel hubs. They gave me the price for the rebuild kit, and offered to send me the O rings only _free_of_charge_! A package arrived on Friday, 4 large O rings and 4 small ones. They even paid the shipping. I'm impressed. IMHO, if you need FWHs, get WARNs. Regards Wouter, from sunny South Africa, where it never rains, just like Seattle. :-) -- Wouter de Waal ZS1KE GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W Argo 505 / FT200 N+++>++ !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t 5? X? R? tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*) Perseverance my son, '72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine it's a Land/ Series II LR SW - factory fitted Lucas immobiliser /Rover "All journeys end when we reach our destination but the journeying remains a thing apart, unique unto itself. Most of us make life's journeys without understanding that the journeying is a separate thing." -- Bob Hoover ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Legality and grey market LRs Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 07:55:00 DST John Ousterhout writes "When I obtained a titled 109 doner chasis for my rusted-out frame, I visited the DMV with my two titles and the rotted remains on a flatbed. They said I didn't need to do anything at all to be legal. Their attitude (Bellevue, Washington) was that the data plate was what identified the legal vehicle." If you Americans apply the same philosophy to 90s,110s FC101's etc then they too become legal ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:07:29 EDT From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: Soft top for sale Hey that soft top looks great value. What colour was it? Anybody else interested? Perhaps we should start an auction :-) Dave B, how much will you pay me not to post this again, offering slightly more than you? I could really use a spare soft top! Isn't EMAIL a great way of cocking it up. Have fun, Steve Steve Reddock, Xyratex | "NEVER QUESTION AN Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 | ENGINEER'S OPINION, IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P) | YOU THUNDERING MORON !" Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | - Dogbert 1996 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 8:54:42 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Range Rover frame rot This sounds like a job for MIG Man! If you have access to a wire-feed type of welder, half your trouble is over. Welding with one of these is as simple as drawing with a pencil and can be mastered in about 5 minutes. Tools needed: Welder and flux-core wire (rentable) Angle grinder (4 inch type) (rentable) Sawzall with 18 tpi blades (rentable) Flat file Ball Peen Hammer wire brush Wrenches for removing guts surrounding area. Materials: Scrap steel sheet for patching Rust inhibiting primer Paint for patched area Block up the vehicle as high as you can get it so as to have the most room underneath. Remove the exhaust piping and anything else in the area which may be damaged by heat and thrashing. Pay special attention to wiring and fuel tubing if it's in the area. Begin preparing the area by cutting away the rusted metal as far back as necessary until you reach solid material. Use the sawzall for removing big areas and finish off with the file and grinder if necessary. Don't worry about making it pretty. Once the bad metal has been removed it is possible to get inside the frame and apply a rust inhibitor if you wish, but it will most likely burn off where you weld. Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole. Grind the edges of the hole nice and shiny and flat back about an inch. Start your patch by spot welding one corner. Proceed spot welding every 2 inches or so until it is tacked all the way around. Next thing is to begin filling in the spot welds with half-inch long beads, allowing the area to cool before doing the next to avoid warpage. This takes a while but is absolutely necessary to get good results. After the patch is solidly welded in all around, grind the welds smooth and prime and paint. Restore whatever was removed to facilitate welding. This repair can easily cost 3-500 dollars if done a a body or welding shop. Renting a welder costs about 50 bones in our area. A note on safety: wear long sleeved COTTON clothing. Weld spatters hurt a lot. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: iharper@afm.org Subject: Cooking Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 08:53:58 EST The book you are looking for is called "Manifold Destinies" ISBN 0-679-72337-4. I recently received a copy as a gift...the recipies are great, although it's sometimes difficult to get the package to stay put...with all of the naturally occuring lubrication on the engine. Perhaps I should be spraying it with PAM instead of WD-40! Cheers, Ian --- This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 17 Sep 96 9:14:25 EDT Subject: Re: Range Rover frame rot ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Reversing switch Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 14:13:26 BST > I am not sure how to reply to your note, so I have sent it directly to > you. Cc: it to "land-rover-owner@playground.sun.com", if your mailer doesn't show this when you do a "reply". > These have the reversing light switch mounted on the gear shift bracket > but the hole is threaded, thus the single nut is merely a lock nut. It [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > switches are quite expensive as I had to buy one some years ago and I am > still paying it off in lump sums.... (just kidding) Yes, see my previous reply to what I found last night. Paddocks suggested (seriously) that the switch was a good price, even though it was more than the special bracket (total cost was about 10-11 ukp total) > It is very easy to mistakenly have the switch adjusted when you are not > truly in reverse as the Rover gear boxes tend to bind a bit when not > running. This I think may have been your problem. This time, I backed into the road, and kept trying to engage reverse, slacked the switch, engage reverse, etc - until I could get reverse, and the gearbox wasn't making a horrible noise (at one point, it was *almost* engages, so there was a "brushing" noise of gears IYKWIM). > Another tip is to run another wire from the "Normally off" side of the > reverse switch to a spare switch on the dash, thus you will find it > useful when camping to have outside lights that can be switched on at > the back door at night. Something for the future - perhaps. It looks like it might be another month or two before I acutally add the lights. The main reason for doing this was to replace the gearstick. Seeing the LRW article, I thought "I could add a reversing switch whilst I'm at it". > As far as lifting your floor boards. there are no short cuts in life, > but you can make it easier for yourself by using single sided self > adhesive foam tape. This means your get a good seal, good sound > deadening as well as not destroying the seal every time you lift the > floor boards. sounds a good idea. Perhaps next time. ATM I have siliconbe sealant "padding"! :-) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 09:36:46 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Solenoid (again) On Mon, 16 Sep 1996 Wdcockey@aol.com wrote: > Now I have a mystery: what is a 1960 88" doing with a solenoid. As far as I > know all positive ground LRs used a push switch under the dash which directly > worked the starter. Prehaps a later modification, or are you refering to > something else? You are correct, but these push switches are a bit rare, or dear in price, thus the Found On Road Dead solution with a descrete switch under the dash. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:47:29 GMT Subject: Re: Another RAV4 description T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-) Rgds Niel Views expressed are personal and not those of the University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:02:37 -0700 From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess) Subject: tic tic noise I have a strange = tic-tic noise coming from the engine. Possible piston slap from the over heating? Remove spark plug wire from #1 and see is the tic goes away. jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:56:45 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Another RAV4 description >T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-) First time my daughter saw one she asked why they hadnt finished building it. cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:08:40 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: theroetical question On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Paul Archibald wrote: > If one was to take a '58 2-litre SII 88" and replace the rusted out > origional chassis with a '69 frame/bulkhead, and then installed a 2.25 > litre engine when the old 2-litre lump wore out, would the vehicle still be > a '58 or should it be re-classified? Ahhh, a diversion into philosophy I see... From experience, between myself and Mr. Insurance company and Austin Mini's I have owned: Can I change the engine? Yes Can I change the entire subframes and attachments? Yes Can I change the body shell? Yes Can I just move the number plate? No But the above amounts to the same thing We know that, but you can't How could you tell? We couldn't Does it matter? Yes Why? Because Because what? Just because... ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:53:03 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: RE: Range Rover frame rot Jeff, Sorry I missed you on Saturday. I only saw your note Yesterday when I opened the garage door. I got the bolt out. Took some drilling but it came out, along with a ton of mud and muck !!! The bolt was completely rusted in there. So much for off-roading ! The steering guard is on, thing looks impressive and covers the drop arm, all the steering rods and ball joints. It's made from 1/4 inch steel. I have a hole in the sill plate on the drivers side that needs patching. But most of my frmae seems okay. The salt here is the killer. I'm going to get my frmae oiled. It's the only way to protect it. What do you want to do about convoying up to Meredith next weekend ? Do you want to meet there ? Mark ---------- From: Jeff & Laura Kessler Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 1996 1:03 AM Subject: Range Rover frame rot Sorry about the cross post but this is a subject the series owners probably know more about. While under the RR Sunday, I found a section of the frame with a hole rusted though. The hole is about 3in high by 4in long and is located by the right head catalitic converter in the side of the frame. The frame is quite tall in this area and the frame is solid on the other 3 sides. A second hole is just past the cat, just before the cross member under the transmission. This hole is about 1in diameter. What is the best way to treat this problem and keep it from spreading? BTW...on my parking brake job, I used an impact driver and the screws backed out right away. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler@srnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: rmodica@east.pima.edu Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:33:09 MST Subject: 1967 SIIA 88 4 Sale I'm posting this for a friend who doesn't have access to e-mail. FOR SALE 1967 SIIA 88" SW, (24432030B). Safari top, light green, new radial tires, new battery and battery box, new fuel tank, roll bar, no frame rust, straight body, very clean. $4500. Contact Greg at 520-322-0115 in Tucson AZ. I can attest to the description. I drove it last night and it is a clean machine. Very strong engine and runs great. Please direct inquires to Greg, but if you want a second opinion e-mail me direct. Rob Modica, Tucson AZ Arizona Land Rover Owners rmodica@east.pima.edu '51 SI 80" hardtop #16136629 '60 SII 109" SW Safari #16400620 "The Tortuga" '94 Disco 5spd ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 17:43:04 +0200 From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Subject: Re: Exhauster assembly Hi Grant & all I assume you've tried all the logical places. So here's an idea: fit the alternator from a diesel Isuzu, it has a built in exhauster and I'm pretty sure you can get the overhaul stuff for that from Isuzu. Other bakkies (pick ups, kind of, for the USAnians) might also have that type of alternator. W ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: <@lucent.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com> Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:07:27 -0400 Subject: 3.8 GM engine (mis)information Re: original 3.8 swap Q and David's A: The 3.8 v6 is derived from the 215GM/Rover 3.5, but the bellhousing is different. The bolt pattern was switched in '64, so it will NOT bolt on to Rover tranny or the adaptors. BTW, the 3.8 is 90deg. v6, and until '84(82?) was odd-fire. Not that the series vehicles are smooth drivers, but this is not the best balanced design. Also, cast block/alloy heads is asking for trouble. It also weighs more than the 215/3.5 v8. They make adaptors for the sbc or sb Ford. The Ford v8 is the narrowest of the bunch, and you can build a 6.0l on it easily. If you want a v6, why not look at the GM or Ford 60% v6 (the 3.8 Ford e.g.) - easier to plant in a tight space. How'bout the PRV alloy v6? Alfa OHC 3.0 or 2.5 v6? Just kidding.. Oh BTW, Is the person who parks the '93 110 in the 1st Baptist church parking lot in Middletown NJ on this list? God bless you -it's a nice truck. Jan ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:45:14 +0100 From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX >From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The Transfer box has an output shaft housing, too. It is to the right of the bell housing, and not connected to it. I wanted to know if this could be removed from the front of the tranfer box without removing the TR box from the gearbox. The lack of answers suggests that no one knows. So I shall proceed with caution. Thanks for trying, Ian. -- David G. Olley ----------------------------------------------------- New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769 Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367 Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:45:14 +0100 From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX >From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The Transfer box has an output shaft housing, too. It is to the right of the bell housing, and not connected to it. I wanted to know if this could be removed from the front of the tranfer box without removing the TR box from the gearbox. The lack of answers suggests that no one knows. So I shall proceed with caution. Thanks for trying, Ian. -- David G. Olley ----------------------------------------------------- New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769 Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367 Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:30:07 -0700 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: jfhess'dormobile light grounds jfhess writes: (snip) >PS. I know intermittent sounds like bad ground, but the light and my top >up warning light are the same ground, and the top up light works perfectly, >so I blame the light fixture itself. Don't know what the parts >individually do, but replacing them en mass should fix the thing. 'reminds me of a common VW ground problem: two lights sharing a common ground. When the ground corrodes, one light (having lower resistance and/or being connected through other light circuits to grounds elsewhere) completes the circuit, so one light works only slightly dimmer. (Usually a turn signal grounds through the brake lights.) Your warning light may ground through the fluorescent circuit (maybe damaging it? 'seems unlikely), but the fluorescent fixture can't ground through the warning light. Or maybe not. Just my .02c John Ousterhout '64 109 deezil ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 18:09:56 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: Roller Fairlead vs Hawse Can anyone help with the benefits of either and which would you recommend ? BTW. 4 Wheel Parts has WARN M8000 low profile winches on sale for $585.00 plus free shipping. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:52:37 -1000 (HST) From: Wayne Haight <whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu> Subject: Series IIA ??'s Aloha! I have owned Kololohi (means slow crawl in Hawaiian), a 1970 Series IIA 2.25 petrol 88" for about 2 months now. I have a couple of questions: Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly; seems like it must be the vacuum servo... or is it normal for Series IIA brakes to squeal and have a stiff pedal? Finally, my reverse lights were hooked up to a switch on the dash, I didn't like that arrangement so I hooked the wires back up to the switch on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? Mahalo for your help, -wayne Wayne Haight (whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu) Senior Fisheries Research Specialist Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research NOAA/NMFS 2570 Dole Street Honolulu, Hawaii 96822 ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:08:35 -0400 From: David_R@interramp.com (David Russell) Subject: Theoretical Dormobile question So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? It's got plenty of rust and it doesn't run--that must count for *something.* :-) David Russell 1977 FJ-40 >From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net> >Subject: Re: Dormobile Dilemma [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >It would take more than a doormobile roof to salvage a landcruiser ;-0 >Greg >Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 16:14:12 -0400 >From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >3D Artist/Animator >------------------------------ ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:16:58 -0400 From: David_R@interramp.com (David Russell) Subject: Re: Misc. Sightings I'm convinced that the highest density of Land Rovers in North America is on Nantucket. I know it's where I saw my first 'live' one, probably 20 years ago. I was visiting my parents over July 4th and was overwhelmed by the numbers. It was a great help, however, as I was able to point them out to my wife and begin the brainwashing. ;-) Was the ambulance green I only caught a glimpse of it? >From: ericz@cloud9.net >Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:13:28 -0400 (EDT) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Even for one who's seen quite a few Rover products...I was quite surprised at >the quantity of the vehicle on Nantucket. Just got back and here's the tally. snip, snip. David Russell ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov Date: 17 Sep 96 12:18:08 MST Subject: 109 is back to "normal," what ever that is! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 Hello all! You may recall that a few weeks ago I broke a half shaft on my 109. Well, after driving around in front wheel drive for a few weeks, I finally removed the remaining broken piece(s) and replaced with a spare that I had in the garage. While I was in there, I examined the ring and pinion, and spiders. All looked great, no signs of wear what so ever. But, not being quite content with well enough, I decided to tighten up the ring & pinion backlash just a spot. (Bad move!) I adjusted it by about 1/2 turn on the bearing carriers, which removed all but a very small amount of motion between the ring and pinion gears. (I did mark the original position, so I could put it back where it was.) BTW my ring gear bolts were tight. I think this may have been a bit too much, because now under light braking and at very slow speeds, like just before coming to a stop, the 109 shudders as if the transmission brake is dragging. (I already checked this out.) It's not very noticeable, but it is there. Anyone else do this? Does it sound too tight? I don't really look forward to removing the center section again, but if it needs to be done... Dave (just enough mechanical knowledge to be scary!) Brown P.S. While I was "there" I noticed it could use some U-joints. The saga continues... #=======# _________ "What lies behind us and what lies |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___ before us are tiny matters compared | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} to what lies within us." "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) Ralph Waldo Emerson ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu> Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:26:24 -6 Subject: Re: Roller Fairlead vs Hawse > Can anyone help with the benefits of either and which would you recommend ? Hawse=smaller projection, if clearence is an issue. More friction on the cable at extreme angles. Cheaper. Roller=Projects more (will cause greater damage to Pontiac bumbers ;-) Rollers reduce friction on angle pulls (I've looped the cable under my LR to pull myself backwards). Cost more. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:35:15 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s Aloha! I have owned Kololohi (means slow crawl in Hawaiian), a 1970 Series IIA >>>>Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? Im not sure but I think in your case the higher the octane, the better. I just had an unleaded conversion, and the psitons decoked, and the motor still diesels if i use anything less than 92-93 octane. I would use the additive, and make sure your valves are properly adjusted and your cooling system works REAL well. >>>>My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly;... snip Stiff, like they don't go all the way to the floor? Most on this list would be jealous. As for squealing...tis the nature of "pigs"...Turning on the ignition while holding the pedal is a test to see if a servo is WORKING. Sounds like yours is fine. Does your vehicle stop ok? If so, then stop worrying. >>>>...snip...I hooked the wires back up to the switch on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? Are they on (1) only when the ignition goes off and reverse is selected? Or (2) when the igniton goes off no matter what gear you are in? If (1), then you need to locate the lead at the fuse box (should be green) and make sure it is in the right group of terminals. If it is on the brown and purple side then it will stay on whether the ignition is on or off. It should be in with the rest of the green wires, which is generally things that are switched and only on when the ignition is on. if (2), then the switch is wired incorectly. Check the schematics. Or there is current bleeding through the switch somehow. It seems unlikely to me that they would stay on with the ignition off, but with the ignition on they only work when reverse is selected. Dave B. Hope you like spaghetti... ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:40:39 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question >>>>So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? NO!!! Sorry. Just having a Dormobile roof doesn't quite cut it. Martin Walter or whatever their name was made Dormobiles out of lots of different vehicles, not just Land Rovers. There is a website with lots o' neat pics of various Dormobiles, some of which are also on jfhess's web page. Sorry I don't have the URL's, you'll just have to be resourceful... Surf's Up... DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:59:39 -0700 From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: Another RAV4 description At 03:47 PM 9/17/96 GMT, you wrote: >T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-) Since there's so much interest in the RAV4, there will be an electric one on display at the Silicon Valley Electric Auto Assn rally on 9/21 at Stanford Univ. (here in Northern California, USA). See <http://pwp.usa.pipeline.com/~beckettw/sveaa.html> for more info. --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 13:02:08 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience I stopped by the jobber today to pick up some ChromaOne to paint Mathilda this weekend and incidentally came across some information that might be of interest to some. I'll be using ChromaOne because Centari is not legal in this county of California (that's right you don't just have to deal with smog checks here you also have to worry about how to paint your car :) ). By, the way these are all DuPont products. But, to my point.. The Centari paint codes provided so frequently on this list DO NOT cross reference to other DuPont paint types. Although one shop employee told me they would there are no cross references within the jobber's computer. I don't think this is entirely a gap in their particular machine's data which appears relatively through. Oddly enough their data lists the DuPont Centari codes as "Atlantic British paint" ... hmmm. interesting. They weren't able to do anything by cross referencing the other brands either. Incidentally the fellow helping me was puzzled at how I managed to obtain all the assorted paint codes. So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary. "Chip" euphamistically meaning a minimum 4"x4" piece of painted metal. (There's a nice little catch 22 here - "If you bring the vehicle in we can scan the paint from it" ... "But it's not painted" ...) Now I have a choice, use a "chip" of Rustoleum Antique White - which is a very, very close match. Or use an older panel with faded paint. I'll probably do the former. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend... Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:18:55 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com> Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend (it changes over the weekend)... It's a cartoon... ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 17:00:14 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary......snip.... Or use an older panel with faded paint. I'll probably do the former. Yo, hold on a second! I went in to a paint store here in MD, and gave them one of the centari codes. Their computer didn't like it either, and they ended up finding (with some effort) a code in one of their books for "Land Rover Pastel Green 1958-70" It worked and the quart that i bought was a very very good match. No sample was even necessary. I suggest you find a better paint shop...I can call them and ask if they have a code for limestone if you want. Dave B ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:23:58 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience Bobeck, David R. wrote: > So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary......snip.... > Or use an [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > if they have a code for limestone if you want. > Dave B If you can get the code for DuPont ChromaOne I'd very much appreciate it. I'll also try inquiring about their paint books before I purchase "scanned" paint of which I am somewhat skeptical. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:25:39 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Transfer woes David Oiley is having some trouble with his new gearbox. >...but the Drice selector will not stay located in 2WD (forward). 'Tis simple. The bottom of the shifter linkage has been attached wrong. The mechanism bolts to the *front* of the bell housing flange, not the back. That little 1/4" difference throws the geometry of the shift lever off. Unbolt the two bolts and refit. You're done in two minutes. (Amd you were worried that it was something *Major*.) Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:33:26 -0400 Subject: Re: 3.8 GM engine more (mis)information Jan sheds some light with a little confusion: >The 3.8 v6 is derived from the 215GM/Rover 3.5, but the bellhousing is >different. The bolt pattern was switched in '64, so it will NOT bolt on >to Rover tranny or the adaptors. Thanks for the correction, I was previously given some erroneous information. However, the V6 goes back to '62 with a smaller displacement (192 cu in?) so there must be some V6 blocks out there with the Rover V8 bolt pattern. One other thought which may be hearasy for this list. The Buick V6 was produced and used by Jeep for a number of years in CJs and Jeepsters. So find an old Jeep trans & transfer case and transplant the whole powertrain. No adaptors required, and maybe the Jeep exhaust can be adapted. >BTW, the 3.8 is 90deg. v6, and until '84(82?) was odd-fire. Not that >the series vehicles are smooth drivers, but this is not the best >balanced design The odd-fire is rougher, but has a stronger crank if you care. Personally I'd go for even-fire given the choice. > Also, cast block/alloy heads is asking for trouble. The Buick V6 has iron heads, even those being produced today. Besides, with current technology this is not an issue. I'm guessing that there have been more iron block/al head engines produced in the last ten years then all iron or all al. >If you want a v6, why not look at the GM or Ford 60% v6 (the 3.8 Ford >e.g.) The Ford 3.8 V6 is 90 deg, and is basically 3/4 of a V8 like the Buick V6. The Ford 60 deg V6s are 2.8 or 4.0. The GM 60 deg V6s are 2.8, 3.1 or 3.4. David Cockey Rochester, MI ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:30:04 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question At 3:08 PM 9/17/96 -0400, David Russell wrote: >So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my >Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? ; Not hardly ; > It's got plenty of rust ; Land Rovers have aluminum bodies ; >and it doesn't run--that must count for *something.* :-) ; Only if your name is Granville does it count. But a few years back I DID find my self and my 109 at a gas station at the same time as a oyota rice burner that had Land Rover badges on it instead of Land Cruser badges. The owner said it was to give his car more class. Maybe your rice burner could be an honorary Nisan Patrol? >David Russell >1977 FJ-40 TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:00:32 -0700 From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net> Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question David Russell wrote: > So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my > Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? It's got > plenty of rust and it doesn't > run--that must count for *something.* > :-) Ah, but does it leak? Cheers, Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: daviscar@concentric.net Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 23:11:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: For Sale HI ALL Well my trip to NY. cost more then I thought it would so It is with some regret that I offer for sale a new galvinized 109 5 door frame. Now I know what it is worth so does anyone looking for one. I am asking $3000.00 usd or obo. I am around the Chicago area for those who want to figure out possible freight costs. The only two odd thing about this frame is a bolt on trans cross member and two holes in the cross member right behind the trans (never seen one like this before. how about anyone else?) Please e-mail me privately with any Questions Thank you Bruce 67 SIIA 88 Patches 59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.) Daviscar@concentric.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:59:17 From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis) Subject: Pontiac VS Buick V6 Engine Hi All, I must confess that I thought I was doing an easy swap by putting in a PONTIAC V6 3.8 engine. However now I am confused about the engine (out of a 1980 Bonnitville). After talking to Advance Adapter they were not sure if they are the same as the buick engine. I can confirm that the Buick v6 was put in the j**ps at one point. It seems that the Pontiac is differant then the buick engine bolt pattern. Advanced Adaptor does not list the pontiac engine at all. Rob Davis_Chicago Failure is not an option Not on my watch....... 1971 (88) Treeweaver 1965 (109SW) OX 1968 (109 three door) Dad's toy (only the caretaker) ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 00:15:57 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com> Subject: Salvage Titles/Restorations For the thread about salvage vehicles and changing all the parts, is it the same vehicle..... In New Hampshire, when a vehicle is salvage, the state will issue a new title with a new VIN starting with the letters "NH" such as NH123456789. Looking though a handbook issued vy the National Insurance Crime something today, most states when issuing a new VIN for a "lost" VIN, through salvage, will either start or end the VIN with two letters identifying the state of issue. Not exactly LRs...I have a client who restores old wooden boats, famous, old expensive wooden boats. He tells me that I can walk in there with the manufacturer's label plate from an old wooden boat, hand it to him and have him restore the boat. The governing body for old boats, whatever they are called, will recognize this as that old boat. More or less. Even more impressive than these boats were the engines in them. One recent project had the original engine, a massive supercharged built to last forever. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler@srnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za () Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 07:46:31 Subject: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII Hi, is there any reliable way to set the distributed pump timing on a 2.25l SIII without the use of any "Land Rover special tool"? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I am still learning... You guys would probably be glad to hear the story: after a long wait I finally bought my first Land Rover around October last year. I later found out that I paid to much for it and that I will have to spend even more. But its such a beautiful car - I'm going ahead anyway. The only problem is that I'm not a mechanic. BUT I learned real quick when the timing chain broke a few months ago & I had to overhaul the engine largely on my own. Engine is back together again now (and it actually runs!), but I am not happy with the way it smokes and suspect the distributer pump timing (Injectors have been overhauled, pump not). I have only discovered the list about 2 weeks ago and I must tell you it is a VERY useful list. Even if you just "listen". You already helped my with my brakes - thanks! About the database: do you have some kind of deadline for receiving data or is this an ongoing thing? I still have to find out some info on mine before I can send it to you. For those who are interested its a 1975 Diesel SIII 88" LHD stationwagon (which makes it quite scarce here - we have RHD cars). It is 100% original, frame in very good condition, everything else needs a little attention, but not much. Thanks in advance - Iwan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Iwan Vosloo Department of Computer Science University of Pretoria South Africa ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:36:09 +0000 Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX Quoting David Olley at New Concept, from 17 Sep 96 > >From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself > clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > from the gearbox. >From memory, it may be wrong.... To get to the layshaft at the bottom of the transfer box (this is the one that connects to the hand-brake & 4WD selector box) o Disconnect both prop-shafts o Drop the bottom off the transfer box. o Remove the press-fit spindle holding the intermediate gearing. WARNING! This spindle has to be prised out with a tyre-iron or crow-bar. Make sure that you use something to raise the fulcrum point otherwise you will snap part of the lip off. Once you get to that point, you will see what I mean. o Remove the hand-brake drum, shoes and backing plate (large nut holds this in place) o You should now be able to slip off the shaft, enabling you to unbolt the 4WD selector box and remove it from the transfer box. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:40:19 +0000 Subject: Re: Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the week Quoting William Caloccia, from 17 Sep 96 > Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend (it > changes over the weekend)... That's the problem with Rangies: crap cars <Ducks and runs for his life.... ;~> ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses. ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 8:41:54 BST > Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead > substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? I hear you'll get valve trouble... Unleaded heads are available (or they are in the UK). > My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the > pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly; seems > like it must be the vacuum servo... or is it normal for Series IIA brakes to > squeal and have a stiff pedal? My SIII has a reasonably stiff pedal (have you tried without pumping?). Yes, the servo will mean the pedal drops when the engine is started. (did IIAs have servos? perhaps its aftermarket, or an "option"?) > Finally, my reverse lights were hooked up to a switch on the dash, I > didn't like that arrangement so I hooked the wires back up to the switch > on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they > stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through > the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? I'm in the process of doing this. They should go through the fuse box. If you can find yourself a wiring diagram, it is possible to work out which fuse to use. Some of the fuses are switched by the ignition/only live with the engine on (eg. the ones powering the indicators and gauges). Any help? As for wiring diagrams: Try the Land Rover Manual (even the "User" Manual has them), Repair Handbooks or Haynes. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Engine Oil Changes Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 9:12:25 BST For the third day in a row, I have a silly problem to ask you all: Okay, I've been a bit lazy in doing a complete engine oil change, but I tried to last night (I have changed the oil in both gearboxes over the past few months though!!). But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round... At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck! The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common problem? Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:24:59 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII >is there any reliable way to set the distributed pump timing on a 2.25l >SIII without >the use of any "Land Rover special tool"? None that I've ever been able to find in ten years.......I think its just a case of trial and error in *very* small increments. Mind you if anyone knows better,I'd like to know as well. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:32:11 +0100 From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > near as I can tell, yes the front casing can be removed without pulling the > transfer case. Dunno about reassembling it, though - you may well have to pull > the botom cover f the transfer box to get bits lined up. Good guess Alan. I pulled the casing off the old box last night - no trouble (took plate off top of TR box to remove selector fork). I also tried replacing it - also no trouble. So now I can remove the box from the Land Rover and see what's wrong inside. I suspect that the rods, levers and springs are seized, preventing full travel of the selector rod. At least I have spares which work! The old transfer box is fine, but the gearbox needs dental work! Many thanks for your reply. -- David G. Olley ----------------------------------------------------- New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769 Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367 Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:40:20 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Engine Oil Changes >But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have >handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round... >At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do >the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck! Well,there's always one wally with more strength than brains. >The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump >gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common >problem? You may find that tightening the sump bolts will do the trick.Mine tend to work loose after a while. When you come to remove the oil filter,I find that a gallon oil tin cut in half lengthways,and sat on top of the front axle helps.You just drop the whole gubbins,filter,case,bolt,the lot, into it.Saves getting oil up your arm! Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Engine Oil Changes Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 10:13:23 BST > >But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have > >handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round... > >At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do > >the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck! > Well,there's always one wally with more strength than brains. It wasn't me! (as I said, I was a bit slow to getting around to this...) > >The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump > >gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common > >problem? > You may find that tightening the sump bolts will do the trick.Mine tend > to work loose after a while. Could be. I'll give that a go, once I've solved the more immediate problem... This would explain how the leak seems to be getting worse. > When you come to remove the oil filter,I find that a gallon oil tin > cut in half lengthways,and sat on top of the front axle helps.You just > drop the whole gubbins,filter,case,bolt,the lot, into it.Saves getting > oil up your arm! I'll give this some thought - I *was* intending on changing the filter at the same time. Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 49 lines 3633 [forwarded 165 whitespace 495] Output: lines 1538 [content 812 forwarded 131 (cut 34) whitespace 476] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960918 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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