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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:23:00 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Kudos to WARN

Hi all

We on the net tend to knock companies that offer bad service much more
readily than we complement companies on good service received. So, for balance:

I asked WARN industries (They're on the web, BTW) about my M12 free wheel
hubs. They gave me the price for the rebuild kit, and offered to send me the
O rings only _free_of_charge_! A package arrived on Friday, 4 large O rings
and 4 small ones. They even paid the shipping. I'm impressed.

IMHO, if you need FWHs, get WARNs.

Regards

Wouter, from sunny South Africa, where it never rains, just like Seattle. :-)

--
Wouter de Waal ZS1KE     GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W
Argo 505 / FT200       N+++>++ !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t
                   5? X? R? tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*)
                                                      Perseverance my son,
'72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine                        it's a   Land/
Series II LR SW - factory fitted Lucas immobiliser                /Rover

"All journeys end when we reach our destination but the journeying remains
a thing apart, unique unto itself. Most of us make life's journeys without
understanding that the journeying is a separate thing."  --  Bob Hoover

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Legality and grey market LRs
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 07:55:00 DST

John Ousterhout writes

"When I obtained a titled 109 doner chasis for my rusted-out frame, I 
visited
the DMV with my two titles and the rotted remains on a flatbed. They said I
didn't need to do anything at all to be legal. Their attitude (Bellevue,
Washington) was that the data plate was what identified the legal vehicle."

If you Americans apply the same philosophy to 90s,110s FC101's etc then they 
too become legal 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:07:29 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Soft top for sale

Hey that soft top looks great value.  What colour was it?
Anybody else interested?

Perhaps we should start an auction :-)

Dave B, how much will you pay me not to post this again, offering
slightly more than you?

I could really use a spare soft top!

Isn't EMAIL a great way of cocking it up.

Have fun, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 8:54:42 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Range Rover frame rot

This sounds like a job for MIG Man! If you have access to a wire-feed 
type of welder, half your trouble is over. Welding with one of these is 
as simple as drawing with a pencil and can be mastered in about 5 
minutes.
Tools needed:
	Welder and flux-core wire (rentable)
	Angle grinder (4 inch type) (rentable)
	Sawzall with 18 tpi blades (rentable)
	Flat file
	Ball Peen Hammer
	wire brush
	Wrenches for removing guts surrounding area.
Materials:
	Scrap steel sheet for patching
	Rust inhibiting primer
	Paint for patched area

Block up the vehicle as high as you can get it so as to have the most 
room underneath.
Remove the exhaust piping and anything else in the area which may be 
damaged by heat and thrashing. Pay special attention to wiring and fuel 
tubing if it's in the area.
Begin preparing the area by cutting away the rusted metal as far back as 
necessary until you reach solid material. Use the sawzall for removing 
big areas and finish off with the file and grinder if necessary. Don't 
worry about making it pretty.
Once the bad metal has been removed it is possible to get inside the 
frame and apply a rust inhibitor if you wish, but it will most likely 
burn off where you weld.
Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole. Grind the edges of the hole 
nice and shiny and flat back about an inch. Start your patch by spot 
welding one corner. Proceed spot welding every 2 inches or so until it is 
tacked all the way around.
Next thing is to begin filling in the spot welds with half-inch long 
beads, allowing the area to cool before doing the next to avoid warpage. 
This takes a while but is absolutely necessary to get good results.
After the patch is solidly welded in all around, grind the welds smooth 
and prime and paint.
Restore whatever was removed to facilitate welding.
This repair can easily cost 3-500 dollars if done a a body or welding 
shop. Renting a welder costs about 50 bones in our area. 
A note on safety: wear long sleeved COTTON clothing. Weld spatters hurt a 
lot.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Cooking
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 08:53:58 EST

The book you are looking for is called "Manifold Destinies" ISBN 
0-679-72337-4.   I recently received a copy as a gift...the recipies are 
great, although it's sometimes difficult to get the package to stay 
put...with all of the naturally occuring lubrication on the engine.  
Perhaps I should be spraying it with PAM instead of WD-40!

Cheers, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Sep 96  9:14:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Range Rover frame rot

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Reversing switch
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 14:13:26 BST

> I am not sure how to reply to your note, so I have sent it directly to
> you.

Cc: it to "land-rover-owner@playground.sun.com", if your mailer doesn't
show this when you do a "reply".

> These have the reversing light switch mounted on the gear shift bracket
> but the hole is threaded, thus the single nut is merely a lock nut.  It
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> switches are quite expensive as I had to buy one some years ago and I am
> still paying it off in lump sums.... (just kidding)

Yes, see my previous reply to what I found last night.
Paddocks suggested (seriously) that the switch was a good price, even though
it was more than the special bracket (total cost was about 10-11 ukp total)

> It is very easy to mistakenly have the switch adjusted when you are not
> truly in reverse as the Rover gear boxes tend to bind a bit when not
> running.  This I think may have been your problem.

This time, I backed into the road, and kept trying to engage reverse, slacked
the switch, engage reverse, etc - until I could get reverse, and the gearbox
wasn't making a horrible noise (at one point, it was *almost* engages, so
there was a "brushing" noise of gears IYKWIM).

> Another tip is to run another wire from the "Normally off" side of the
> reverse switch to a spare switch on the dash, thus you will find it
> useful when camping to have outside lights that can be switched on at
> the back door at night.

Something for the future - perhaps. It looks like it might be another month
or two before I acutally add the lights. The main reason for doing this
was to replace the gearstick. Seeing the LRW article, I thought "I could add
a reversing switch whilst I'm at it".

 
> As far as lifting your floor boards. there are no short cuts in life,
> but you can make it easier for yourself by using single sided self
> adhesive foam tape.  This means your get a good seal, good sound
> deadening as well as not destroying the seal every time you lift the
> floor boards.

sounds a good idea. Perhaps next time. ATM I have siliconbe sealant "padding"!
:-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 09:36:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Solenoid (again)

On Mon, 16 Sep 1996 Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:

> Now I have a mystery: what is a 1960 88" doing with a solenoid. As far as I
> know all positive ground LRs used a push switch under the dash which directly
> worked the starter. Prehaps a later modification, or are you refering to
> something else?

	You are correct, but these push switches are a bit rare, or dear
	in price, thus the Found On Road Dead solution with a descrete
	switch under the dash.

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:47:29 GMT
Subject:       Re: Another RAV4 description

T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-)
Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:02:37 -0700
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: tic tic noise

 I have a strange =
tic-tic noise
coming from the engine.

Possible piston slap from the over heating?
Remove spark plug wire from #1 and see is the tic goes away.

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:56:45 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Another RAV4 description

>T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-)

First time my daughter saw one she asked why they hadnt finished
building it.
cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:08:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: theroetical question

On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Paul Archibald wrote:

>         If one was to take a '58 2-litre SII 88" and replace the rusted out
> origional chassis with a '69 frame/bulkhead, and then installed a 2.25
> litre engine when the old 2-litre lump wore out, would the vehicle still be
> a '58 or should it be re-classified? 

	Ahhh, a diversion into philosophy I see...

	From experience, between myself and Mr. Insurance company and Austin
	Mini's I have owned:

	Can I change the engine?		  Yes
	Can I change the entire subframes
	 and attachments?			  Yes
	Can I change the body shell?		  Yes
	Can I just move the number plate?	  No
	But the above amounts to the same thing   We know that, but you can't
	How could you tell?			  We couldn't
	Does it matter?				  Yes
	Why?					  Because
	Because what?				  Just because...

	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:53:03 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Range Rover frame rot

Jeff, 

Sorry I missed you on Saturday. I only saw your note Yesterday when I opened 
the garage door. 

I got the bolt out. Took some drilling but it came out, along with a ton of 
mud and muck !!! The bolt was completely rusted in there. So much for 
off-roading !

The steering guard is on, thing looks impressive and covers the drop arm, all 
the steering rods and ball joints. It's made from 1/4 inch steel. 

I have a hole in the sill plate on the drivers side that needs patching. But 
most of my frmae seems okay. The salt here is the killer. I'm going to get my 
frmae oiled. It's the only way to protect it. 

What do you want to do about convoying up to Meredith next weekend ? 
Do you want to meet there ? 

Mark 

 

----------
From: 	Jeff & Laura Kessler
Sent: 	Tuesday, September 17, 1996 1:03 AM
Subject: 	Range Rover frame rot

Sorry about the cross post but this is a subject the series owners probably
know more about.

While under the RR Sunday, I found a section of the frame with a hole rusted
though.  The hole is about 3in high by 4in long and is located by the right
head catalitic converter in the side of the frame.  The frame is quite tall
in this area and the frame is solid on the other 3 sides.  A second hole is
just past the cat, just before the cross member under the transmission.
This hole is about 1in diameter.

What is the best way to treat this problem and keep it from spreading?

BTW...on my parking brake job, I used an impact driver and the screws backed
out right away.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:33:09 MST
Subject: 1967 SIIA 88 4 Sale

I'm posting this for a friend who doesn't have access to e-mail.

FOR SALE  1967 SIIA 88" SW, (24432030B).  Safari top, light green, new radial 
tires, new battery and battery box, new fuel tank, roll bar, no frame rust, 
straight body, very clean.  $4500.  Contact Greg at 520-322-0115 in Tucson AZ.

I can attest to the description.  I drove it last night and it is a clean 
machine.  Very strong engine and runs great.  Please direct inquires to Greg, 
but if you want a second opinion e-mail me direct.

Rob Modica, Tucson AZ                                          
Arizona Land Rover Owners  
rmodica@east.pima.edu
'51 SI 80" hardtop #16136629
'60 SII 109" SW Safari #16400620 "The Tortuga"
'94 Disco 5spd 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 17:43:04 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Exhauster assembly

Hi Grant & all

I assume you've tried all the logical places. So here's an idea: fit the
alternator from a diesel Isuzu, it has a built in exhauster and I'm pretty
sure you can get the overhaul stuff for that from Isuzu. Other bakkies (pick
ups, kind of, for the USAnians) might also have that type of alternator.

W 

------------------------------

From: <@lucent.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:07:27 -0400
Subject: 3.8 GM engine (mis)information

Re: original 3.8 swap Q and David's A:

The 3.8 v6 is derived from the 215GM/Rover 3.5, but the bellhousing is
different.  The bolt pattern was switched in '64, so it will NOT bolt on
to Rover tranny or the adaptors.
BTW, the 3.8 is 90deg. v6, and until '84(82?) was odd-fire.  Not that
the series vehicles are smooth drivers, but this is not the best
balanced design.  Also, cast block/alloy heads is asking for trouble.
It also weighs more than the 215/3.5 v8.
They make adaptors for the sbc or sb Ford.  The Ford v8 is the narrowest
of the bunch, and you can build a 6.0l on it easily.

If you want a v6, why not look at the GM or Ford 60% v6 (the 3.8 Ford
e.g.) - easier to plant in a tight space.  How'bout the PRV alloy v6?
Alfa OHC 3.0 or 2.5 v6? Just kidding..

Oh BTW,  Is the person who parks the '93 110 in the 1st Baptist church
parking lot in Middletown NJ on this list? God bless you -it's a nice
truck.

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:45:14 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX

>From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself 
clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The 
Transfer box has an output shaft housing, too. It is to the right of the 
bell housing, and not connected to it. I wanted to know if this could be 
removed from the front of the tranfer box without removing the TR box 
from the gearbox.

The lack of answers suggests that no one knows. So I shall proceed with 
caution.

Thanks for trying, Ian.

-- 

David G. Olley
-----------------------------------------------------
New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England
Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769  Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367
Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
-----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:45:14 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX

>From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself 
clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The 
Transfer box has an output shaft housing, too. It is to the right of the 
bell housing, and not connected to it. I wanted to know if this could be 
removed from the front of the tranfer box without removing the TR box 
from the gearbox.

The lack of answers suggests that no one knows. So I shall proceed with 
caution.

Thanks for trying, Ian.

-- 

David G. Olley
-----------------------------------------------------
New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England
Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769  Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367
Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
-----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:30:07 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: jfhess'dormobile light grounds

jfhess writes: (snip)
>PS.  I know intermittent sounds like bad ground, but the light and my top
>up warning light are the same ground, and the top up light works perfectly,
>so I blame the light fixture itself.  Don't know what the parts
>individually do, but replacing them en mass should fix the thing.

'reminds me of a common VW ground problem: two lights sharing a common 
ground. When the ground corrodes, one light (having lower resistance and/or 
being connected through other light circuits to grounds elsewhere) completes 
the circuit, so one light works only slightly dimmer. (Usually a turn signal 
grounds through the brake lights.) Your warning light may ground through the 
fluorescent circuit (maybe damaging it? 'seems unlikely), but the 
fluorescent fixture can't ground through the warning light. 

Or maybe not. 

Just my .02c
John Ousterhout
'64 109 deezil

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 18:09:56 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Roller Fairlead vs Hawse

Can anyone help with the benefits of either and which would you recommend ? 

BTW. 4 Wheel Parts has WARN M8000 low profile winches on sale for $585.00 plus 
free shipping. 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:52:37 -1000 (HST)
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu>
Subject: Series IIA ??'s

Aloha!

I have owned Kololohi (means slow crawl in Hawaiian), a 1970 Series IIA
2.25 petrol 88" for about 2 months now. I have a couple of questions: 

Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead
substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? 

My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the
pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly; seems
like it must be the vacuum servo... or is it normal for Series IIA brakes to
squeal and have a stiff pedal? 

Finally, my reverse lights were hooked up to a switch on the dash, I
didn't like that arrangement so I hooked the wires back up to the switch
on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they
stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through
the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? 

Mahalo for your help,

-wayne

Wayne Haight (whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu)
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
NOAA/NMFS 
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:08:35 -0400
From: David_R@interramp.com (David Russell)
Subject: Theoretical Dormobile question

So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my
Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? It's got
plenty of rust and it doesn't
run--that must count for *something.*
:-)

David Russell
1977 FJ-40

>From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
>Subject: Re: Dormobile Dilemma
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>It would take more than a doormobile roof to salvage a landcruiser ;-0
>Greg

>Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 16:14:12 -0400
>From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>3D Artist/Animator
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:16:58 -0400
From: David_R@interramp.com (David Russell)
Subject: Re: Misc. Sightings

I'm convinced that the highest density of Land Rovers in North America is
on Nantucket. I know it's where I saw my first 'live' one, probably 20
years ago.

I was visiting my parents over July 4th and was overwhelmed by the numbers.
It was a great help, however, as I was able to point them out to my wife
and begin the brainwashing. ;-)

Was the ambulance green I only caught a glimpse of it?

>From: ericz@cloud9.net
>Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:13:28 -0400 (EDT)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Even for one who's seen quite a few Rover products...I was quite surprised at
>the quantity of the vehicle on Nantucket.  Just got back and here's the tally.

snip, snip.
David Russell

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 17 Sep 96 12:18:08 MST
Subject: 109 is back to "normal," what ever that is!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Hello all! You may recall that a few weeks ago I broke a half shaft on
my 109. Well, after driving around in front wheel drive for a few weeks,
I finally removed the remaining broken piece(s) and replaced with a
spare that I had in the garage.

While I was in there, I examined the ring and pinion, and spiders. All
looked great, no signs of wear what so ever. But, not being quite
content with well enough, I decided to tighten up the ring & pinion
backlash just a spot. (Bad move!) I adjusted it by about 1/2 turn on the
bearing carriers, which removed all but a very small amount of motion
between the ring and pinion gears. (I did mark the original position, so
I could put it back where it was.) BTW my ring gear bolts were tight.

I think this may have been a bit too much, because now under light
braking and at very slow speeds, like just before coming to a stop, the
109 shudders as if the transmission brake is dragging. (I already
checked this out.) It's not very noticeable, but it is there.

Anyone else do this? Does it sound too tight? I don't really look
forward to removing the center section again, but if it needs to be
done...

Dave (just enough mechanical knowledge to be scary!) Brown

P.S. While I was "there" I noticed it could use some U-joints. The saga
continues...

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:26:24 -6
Subject: Re: Roller Fairlead vs Hawse

> Can anyone help with the benefits of either and which would you recommend ? 

Hawse=smaller projection, if clearence is an issue. More friction on 
the cable at extreme angles. Cheaper.

Roller=Projects more (will cause greater damage to Pontiac bumbers ;-)
Rollers reduce friction on angle pulls (I've looped the cable under 
my LR to pull myself backwards). Cost more.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:35:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s

Aloha!

I have owned Kololohi (means slow crawl in Hawaiian), a 1970 Series IIA
>>>>Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead
substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? 

Im not sure but I think in your case the higher the octane, the better. I just 
had an unleaded conversion, and the psitons decoked, and the motor still diesels
if i use anything less than 92-93 octane. I would use the additive, and make 
sure your valves are properly adjusted and your cooling system works REAL well. 

>>>>My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the
pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly;... snip

Stiff, like they don't go all the way to the floor? Most on this list would be 
jealous. As for squealing...tis the nature of "pigs"...Turning on the ignition 
while holding the pedal is a test to see if a servo is WORKING. Sounds like 
yours is fine. Does your vehicle stop ok? If so, then stop worrying.

>>>>...snip...I hooked the wires back up to the switch
on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they
stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through
the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? 

 Are they on (1) only when the ignition goes off and reverse is selected?       
          Or (2) when the igniton goes off no matter what gear you are in?

If (1), then you need to locate the lead at the fuse box (should be green) and 
make sure it is in the right group of terminals. If it is on the brown and 
purple side then it will stay on whether the ignition is on or off. It should be
in with the rest of the green wires, which is generally things that are switched
and only on when the ignition is on.

if (2), then the switch is wired incorectly. Check the schematics. Or there is 
current bleeding through the switch somehow. It seems unlikely to me that they 
would stay on with the ignition off, but with the ignition on they only work 
when reverse is selected.

Dave B.
Hope you like spaghetti...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:40:39 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question

>>>>So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my
Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? 

NO!!!
 Sorry. Just having a Dormobile roof doesn't quite cut it. Martin Walter or 
whatever their name was made Dormobiles out of lots of different vehicles, not 
just Land Rovers. There is a website with lots o' neat pics of various 
Dormobiles, some of which are also on jfhess's web page. Sorry I don't have the 
URL's, you'll just have to be resourceful...

Surf's Up...

DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:59:39 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Another RAV4 description

At 03:47 PM 9/17/96 GMT, you wrote:
>T-yota RAV4 = N-ssan micra on steroids :-)
Since there's so much interest in the RAV4, there will be an electric one on
display at the Silicon Valley Electric Auto Assn rally on 9/21 at Stanford
Univ. (here in Northern California, USA).  See
<http://pwp.usa.pipeline.com/~beckettw/sveaa.html> for more info.
--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 13:02:08 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience

I stopped by the jobber today to pick up some ChromaOne to paint Mathilda 
this weekend and incidentally came across some information that might be 
of interest to some.

I'll be using ChromaOne because Centari is not legal in this county of 
California (that's right you don't just have to deal with smog checks 
here you also have to worry about how to paint your car :) ).  By, the 
way these are all DuPont products.

But, to my point..

The Centari paint codes provided so frequently on this list DO NOT cross 
reference to other DuPont paint types.  Although one shop employee told 
me they would there are no cross references within the jobber's computer. 
 I don't think this is entirely a gap in their particular machine's data 
which appears relatively through.  Oddly enough their data lists the 
DuPont Centari codes as "Atlantic British paint"  ... hmmm.  interesting. 
 They weren't able to do anything by cross referencing the other brands 
either.  

Incidentally the fellow helping me was puzzled at how I managed to obtain 
 all the assorted paint codes.  

So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary.  "Chip" euphamistically 
meaning a minimum 4"x4" piece of painted metal.  (There's a nice little 
catch 22 here - "If you bring the vehicle in we can scan the paint from 
it" ... "But it's not painted" ...) Now I have a choice, use a "chip" of 
Rustoleum Antique White - which is a very, very close match.  Or use an 
older panel with faded paint.  I'll probably do the former.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Subject: Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend...
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:18:55 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend (it
changes over the weekend)...

It's a cartoon...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 17:00:14 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience

So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary......snip....
  Or use an 
older panel with faded paint.  I'll probably do the former.

Yo, hold on a second!
I went in to a paint store here in MD, and gave them one of the centari codes. 
Their computer didn't like it either, and they ended up finding (with some 
effort) a code in one of their books for "Land Rover Pastel Green 1958-70"
It worked and the quart that i bought was a very very good match. No sample was 
even necessary. I suggest you find a better paint shop...I can call them and ask
if they have a code for limestone if you want.

Dave B

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:23:58 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting CA Paint Code Experience

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> So it appears that a paint "chip" is necessary......snip....
>   Or use an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> if they have a code for limestone if you want.
> Dave B

If you can get the code for DuPont ChromaOne I'd very much appreciate it.
I'll also try inquiring about their paint books before I purchase 
"scanned" paint 
of which I am somewhat skeptical.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:25:39 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Transfer woes

David Oiley is having some trouble with his new gearbox.

>...but the Drice selector will not stay located in 2WD (forward).

'Tis simple.  The bottom of the shifter linkage has been attached wrong.  
The mechanism bolts to the *front* of the bell housing flange, not the back. 
 That little 1/4" difference throws the geometry of the shift lever off.  
Unbolt the two bolts and refit.  You're done in two minutes.  (Amd you were 
worried that it was something *Major*.)  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:33:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.8 GM engine more (mis)information

Jan sheds some light with a little confusion:

>The 3.8 v6 is derived from the 215GM/Rover 3.5, but the bellhousing is
>different.  The bolt pattern was switched in '64, so it will NOT bolt on
>to Rover tranny or the adaptors.
Thanks for the correction, I was previously given some erroneous information.
However, the V6 goes back to '62 with a smaller displacement (192 cu in?) so
there must be some V6 blocks out there with the Rover V8 bolt pattern.

One other thought which may be hearasy for this list. The Buick V6 was
produced and used by Jeep for a number of years in CJs and Jeepsters. So find
an old Jeep trans & transfer case and transplant the whole powertrain. No
adaptors required, and maybe the Jeep exhaust can be adapted.

>BTW, the 3.8 is 90deg. v6, and until '84(82?) was odd-fire.  Not that
>the series vehicles are smooth drivers, but this is not the best
>balanced design
The odd-fire is rougher, but has a stronger crank if you care. Personally I'd
go for even-fire given the choice.

> Also, cast block/alloy heads is asking for trouble.
The Buick V6 has iron heads, even those being produced today. Besides, with
current technology this is not an issue. I'm guessing that there have been
more iron block/al head engines produced in the last ten years then all iron
or all al.

>If you want a v6, why not look at the GM or Ford 60% v6 (the 3.8 Ford
>e.g.)
The Ford 3.8 V6 is 90 deg, and is basically 3/4 of a V8 like the Buick V6.
The Ford 60 deg V6s are 2.8 or 4.0. The GM 60 deg V6s are 2.8, 3.1 or 3.4.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:30:04 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question

At  3:08 PM 9/17/96 -0400, David Russell wrote:

>So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my
>Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be?
;
Not hardly
;
> It's got plenty of rust
;
Land Rovers have aluminum bodies
;
>and it doesn't run--that must count for *something.* :-)
;
Only if your name is Granville does it count.

But a few years back I DID find my self and my 109 at a gas station at the
same time as a oyota rice burner that had Land Rover badges on it instead
of Land Cruser badges.  The owner said it was to give his car more class.

Maybe your rice burner could be an honorary Nisan Patrol?

>David Russell
>1977 FJ-40

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 15:00:32 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question

David Russell wrote:
 
> So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my
> Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? It's got
> plenty of rust and it doesn't
> run--that must count for *something.*
> :-)

Ah, but does it leak?

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: daviscar@concentric.net
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 23:11:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: For Sale

HI ALL

Well my trip to NY. cost more then I thought it would so It is with some
regret that I offer for sale a new galvinized 109 5 door frame. Now I know
what it is worth so does anyone looking for one. I am asking $3000.00 usd or
obo. I am around the Chicago area for those who want to figure out possible
freight costs.
The only two odd thing about this frame is a bolt on trans cross member and
two holes in the cross member right behind the trans (never seen one like
this before. how about anyone else?) Please e-mail me privately with any
Questions

Thank you
Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.)
Daviscar@concentric.net
       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:59:17
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Pontiac VS Buick V6 Engine

Hi All,
 I must confess that I thought I was doing an easy swap by putting in a 
PONTIAC V6 3.8 engine.  However now I am confused about the engine (out of a 
1980 Bonnitville). After talking to Advance Adapter they were not sure if 
they are the same as the buick engine.  I can confirm that the Buick v6 was 
put in the j**ps at one point.  It seems that the Pontiac is differant then 
the buick engine bolt pattern.
 Advanced Adaptor does not list the pontiac engine at all.
   
Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

1971 (88)  Treeweaver
1965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 00:15:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Salvage Titles/Restorations

For the thread about salvage vehicles and changing all the parts, is it the
same vehicle.....

In New Hampshire, when a vehicle is salvage, the state will issue a new
title with a new VIN starting with the letters "NH" such as NH123456789.
Looking though a handbook issued vy the National Insurance Crime something
today, most states when issuing a new VIN for a "lost" VIN, through salvage,
will either start or end the VIN with two letters identifying the state of
issue.

Not exactly LRs...I have a client who restores old wooden boats, famous, old
expensive wooden boats.  He tells me that I can walk in there with the
manufacturer's label plate from an old wooden boat, hand it to him and have
him restore the boat.  The governing body for old boats, whatever they are
called, will recognize this as that old boat.  More or less.

Even more impressive than these boats were the engines in them.  One recent
project had the original engine, a massive supercharged built to last forever.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

------------------------------

From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za ()
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 07:46:31      
Subject: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII

Hi,

is there any reliable way to set the distributed pump timing on a 2.25l SIII without 
the use of any "Land Rover special tool"?

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I am still learning... You guys would 
probably be glad to hear the story: after a long wait I finally bought my first Land 
Rover around October last year.  I later found out that I paid to much for it and 
that I will have to spend even more.  But its such a beautiful car - I'm going ahead 
anyway.  The only problem is that I'm not a mechanic.  BUT I learned real quick when 
the timing chain broke a few months ago & I had to overhaul the engine largely on my 
own.  Engine is back together again now (and it actually runs!), but I am not happy 
with the way it smokes and suspect the distributer pump timing (Injectors have been 
overhauled, pump not).

I have only discovered the list about 2 weeks ago and I must tell you it is a VERY 
useful list.  Even if you just "listen".  You already helped my with my brakes - 
thanks!

About the database:  do you have some kind of deadline for receiving data or is this 
an ongoing thing?  I still have to find out some info on mine before I can send it to 
you.

For those who are interested its a 1975 Diesel SIII 88" LHD stationwagon (which makes 
it quite scarce here - we have RHD cars).  It is 100% original, frame in very good 
condition, everything else needs a little attention, but not much.

Thanks in advance
- Iwan

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iwan Vosloo
Department of Computer Science
University of Pretoria
South Africa

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:36:09 +0000
Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX

Quoting David Olley at New Concept, from 17 Sep 96

> >From Ian Stuarts reply to my question, it appears I did not make myself 
> clear. I was referring to the Transfer Box, not the gearbox. The 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> from the gearbox.
>From memory, it may be wrong....

To get to the layshaft at the bottom of the transfer box (this is the one 
that connects to the hand-brake & 4WD selector box)

o Disconnect both prop-shafts
o Drop the bottom off the transfer box.
o Remove the press-fit spindle holding the intermediate gearing. WARNING! 
This spindle has to be prised out with a tyre-iron or crow-bar. Make sure 
that you use something to raise the fulcrum point otherwise you will snap 
part of the lip off. Once you get to that point, you will see what I mean.
o Remove the hand-brake drum, shoes and backing plate (large nut holds 
this in place)
o You should now be able to slip off the shaft, enabling you to unbolt the 
4WD selector box and remove it from the transfer box.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:40:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the week

Quoting William Caloccia, from 17 Sep 96

> Check out http://pizzabones.com/monday.html before the weekend (it
> changes over the weekend)...
That's the problem with Rangies: crap cars

<Ducks and runs for his life.... ;~>

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 8:41:54 BST

> Is it all right to run 92 octane unleaded without adding a lead
> substitute, or am I asking for valve problems in the future? 

I hear you'll get valve trouble...
Unleaded heads are available (or they are in the UK).

> My brakes squeal very loudly and the pedal is very stiff. If I pump the
> pedal and then turn on the ignition, it only depresses slightly; seems
> like it must be the vacuum servo... or is it normal for Series IIA brakes to
> squeal and have a stiff pedal? 

My SIII has a reasonably stiff pedal (have you tried without pumping?).
Yes, the servo will mean the pedal drops when the engine is started.
(did IIAs have servos? perhaps its aftermarket, or an "option"?)

> Finally, my reverse lights were hooked up to a switch on the dash, I
> didn't like that arrangement so I hooked the wires back up to the switch
> on the transmission. Now the lights work fine when in reverse, but they
> stay on when the ignition is off. Are they supposed to be wired through
> the ignition switch rather than straight from the fuse box? 

I'm in the process of doing this. They should go through the fuse box.
If you can find yourself a wiring diagram, it is possible to work out
which fuse to use. Some of the fuses are switched by the ignition/only
live with the engine on (eg. the ones powering the indicators and gauges).

Any help?

As for wiring diagrams: Try the Land Rover Manual (even the "User" Manual has
them), Repair Handbooks or Haynes.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Engine Oil Changes
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 9:12:25 BST

For the third day in a row, I have a silly problem to ask you all:

Okay, I've been a bit lazy in doing a complete engine oil change, but
I tried to last night  (I have changed the oil in both gearboxes over the
past few months though!!).

But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have
handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round...
At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do
the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck!

The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump
gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common
problem?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:24:59 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII

>is there any reliable way to set the distributed pump timing on a 2.25l
>SIII without
>the use of any "Land Rover special tool"?
None that I've ever been able to find in ten years.......I think
its just a case of trial and error in *very* small increments.
Mind you if anyone knows better,I'd like to know as well.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:32:11 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII TRANSFER BOX

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> near as I can tell, yes the front casing can be removed without pulling the
> transfer case. Dunno about reassembling it, though - you may well have to pull
> the botom cover f the transfer box to get bits lined up.

Good guess Alan.

I pulled the casing off the old box last night - no trouble (took plate off top of TR 
box to remove selector fork). I also tried replacing it - also no trouble. So now I 
can remove the box from the Land Rover and see what's wrong inside. I suspect that the 
rods, levers and springs are seized, preventing full travel of the selector rod. At 
least I have spares which work! The old transfer box is fine, but the gearbox needs 
dental work!
Many thanks for your reply.
-- 
David G. Olley
-----------------------------------------------------
New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England
Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769  Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367
Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
-----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:40:20 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Changes

>But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have
>handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round...
>At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do
>the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck!
Well,there's always one wally with more strength than brains.

>The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump
>gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common
>problem?
You may find that tightening the sump bolts will do the trick.Mine tend
to work loose after a while.
When you come to remove the oil filter,I find that a gallon oil tin
cut in half lengthways,and sat on top of the front axle helps.You just
drop the whole gubbins,filter,case,bolt,the lot, into it.Saves getting
oil up your arm!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Changes
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 10:13:23 BST

> >But, the drain plug is stuck solid! I've tried pretty much every tool I have
> >handy, even vice-grips & hammer. The head is beginning to round...
> >At the weekend I can get hold of an impact driver, which might be able to do
> >the job - but it seems strange that an *oil* plug should be so stuck!

> Well,there's always one wally with more strength than brains.

It wasn't me! (as I said,  I was a bit slow to getting around to this...)

> >The good news is that it looks like my main oil leak might be my sump
> >gasket, rather than somewhere more obscure. Are these gaskets a common
> >problem?
> You may find that tightening the sump bolts will do the trick.Mine tend
> to work loose after a while.

Could be. I'll give that a go, once I've solved the more immediate problem...
This would explain how the leak seems to be getting worse.

> When you come to remove the oil filter,I find that a gallon oil tin
> cut in half lengthways,and sat on top of the front axle helps.You just
> drop the whole gubbins,filter,case,bolt,the lot, into it.Saves getting
> oil up your arm!

I'll give this some thought - I *was* intending on changing the filter
at the same time.

Richard

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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