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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 07:54:38 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

>>>>How do folks out there feel about using the adaptor and QUALITY (not
discount store) spin-on oil filters.  Specifically, are there any problems
with the set-up that won't be offset by my being more willing to change the
oil, and having filters readily available when I get the urge.

Well, I'm not really "new" per se, but...
The only complaint I have so far is that it goos out oil all over the front prop
when you remove the filter. Centrifugal force takes care of that once you start 
moving though. I'm not sure exactly what I have, there are several different 
ones on the market.

Dave 
Oils Well that ends well...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 08:01:35 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

At 14:58 96-08-29 -0600, you wrote:
>How does one go about adapting?  Is there something on the NA market or is a

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]

>How does one go about adapting?  Is there something on the NA market or is a
>fabrication sort of thing?
The adaptor is fabricated and sold by Paul Socholtiuk, 451 Adelaide St West,
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5V 1TL. I don't have the phone number, but I
could find it. The kit sells for 50$ Cdn, including shipping and taxes. It
is made of aluminium and fits perfectly. 

I have installed three up to now and had no problem at all. The oil pressure
is still good and the job of changing oil is as easy as on any other car.
With the cost of spin-on filters (about 4 times cheaper than the cartridge
type) it pays itself in two years. I also think, but I am not sure, (please
correct me if I am wrong) that the spin on filters catch smaller particles
than the cartridge type. Also, it is possible to put a magnet thingy on the
bottom of the spin-on filter to catch any metal debris. I think that it is a
good add-on to our vehicles.

"Juste mon deux cennes"

I have absolutely no interest and am not related to Paul Socholtiuk or his
company. I am only a satisfied customer.

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Humble apology to LR Canada
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 08:21:00 DST

The price I quoted yesterday for the LR hat was incorrect, I got mixed up 
with the T Shirts and Camel Hats. The LR Hat is same price as the Toyota 
hat. The quality comparison still stands.

Trevor "my knickers are twisted" Easton

------------------------------

From: Mark.Maslar@software.rockwell.com (Maslar, Mark)
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 08:20:21 -0400
Subject: T-shirts

What's going on with the t-shirts? I've seen the designs, but has any   
design emerged as the favorite? If so, where do the $ (or £ ) get sent?

Mark Maslar
'95 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 22:47:24 +1100
From: Bruce Horkings <bruce@nmit.vic.edu.au>
Subject: Petrol Tanks 

> G'Day all from OZ.

Only been on for a few weeks and so far I have actually enjoyed reading my mail.
A quick question, I have a SIII 5 door in the process of having a engine and gearbox 
change (Holden 202 with 5 speed gearbox) as well as prehaps new seating arrangments. The 
problem is I have a petrol tank underneath both the front drivers and passengers seat. 
Can anyone tell if it is possible to connect a filling system so I don't have to the 
lift the seats up.

Cheers

Bruce Horkings 

May the Land Rover be with you (as well as a good tool kit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 09:19:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

On Thu, 29 Aug 1996, Rick Grant wrote:

> How does one go about adapting?  Is there something on the NA market or is a
> fabrication sort of thing?

	Chap in Toronto, spelling of his surname escapes me, had an adapter
	made many years ago and sells (sold?) them.  Just don't put them on
	backwards (which is possible).  With a milling machine and a 
	block of aluminium you could make one of these items.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 09:40:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Landrover history

On Fri, 30 Aug 1996, Geoffrey Said wrote:

> 1  Why has landrover retained the 2.25l diesel engine on both Series III lwb 
> and swb.  

	Lack of money to do much else, limited supplies of the v8, they 
	put the 6 cylinder in some models

> 2  What are the main differences between the Series II and IIa.

	Engine internals/externals, steering arms, bunch of other smaller
	stuff (http://www1.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.2.Ident.LR.html)
	Gearbox differs in the layshaft etc.

> 3  Why has landrover taken long to introduce a much more powereful diesel 
> engine on their workhorses knowing that their models where underpowered.

	Money.  Braindead management at B(ps)L.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Petrol Tanks 
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 14:42:29 BST

> > G'Day all from OZ.
> Only been on for a few weeks and so far I have actually enjoyed reading my mail.
> A quick question, I have a SIII 5 door in the process of having a engine and gearbox 
> change (Holden 202 with 5 speed gearbox) as well as prehaps new seating arrangments. The 
> problem is I have a petrol tank underneath both the front drivers and passengers seat. 

Sounds ex-military.

> Can anyone tell if it is possible to connect a filling system so I don't have to the 
> lift the seats up.

I looked into this, and basically, you need to replace the tanks - and
put a civvie tank in (either the under-seat variety or the rear "safari"
variety).

I decided not to, and just replace my leaking left tank with a new one.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 14:46:03 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: 110 Fuel Tank Question?

I have an '85 110 CSW with a leaking rear fuel tank - thats the early type,
not with the internal fuel pump.

I've removed it but I cannot see where leak is coming from.

There is a large plate over the entire underside of the tank that I thought
would come off once the tank was removed (ie, I thought it was there for
protection or strengthening the tank)

BUT it will not come off! it has either rusted to the tank where the two
are bolted together or someone has deliberately fixed or tack welded them
together.

Could someone please tell me if this plate is original (it looks too good
to be home-made) and if I should be able to remove it or not.

I hammered the tank with a rubber mallet and quite a bit of rust fell out
from between this plate and the tank so I suspect that rust could have
eaten into the tank itself

Luckily I have a spare long range tank fitted so I can still use it but
being a V8 I seem to be visiting the petrol station on an almost daily
basis!!

PLEASE HELP.

thanks

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 14:50:20 +0000
Subject: Re: 110 Fuel Tank Question?

Quoting Simon Ward-Hastelow, from 30 Aug 96

> There is a large plate over the entire underside of the tank that I
> thought would come off once the tank was removed

> BUT it will not come off!

> Could someone please tell me if this plate is original (it looks too good
> to be home-made) and if I should be able to remove it or not.
The plate should be there!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 10:11:53 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

Well, I fianlly dug up the fella's phone number: 416-504-3633. 

        >The adaptor is fabricated and sold by Paul Socholtiuk, 451 Adelaide
St West,          >Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5V 1TL. I don't have the phone
number, but I could         >find it. The kit sells for 50$ Cdn, including
shipping and taxes. It is made          >of aluminium and fits perfectly. 

"I'm going for a spin"

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 10:55:47 -0400
Subject: Re: What is a bimini top?

A bimini top is a simple awning without side or rear curtains. I believe the
original usage comes from sport fishing boats. On Land Rovers, Jeeps, and
other open 4x4s in North America they are usually supported by the windshield
frame and roll bar. Sometines called a bikini top.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 11:03:18 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: so close it hurts...

Well this is just too cool...

I got the Green Car registered yesterday, and set off to make her somewhat 
roadworthy. At around midnight I had wings bolted on and lights hooked up, 
bonnet in place, (can't find the little plastic grommets!!) and windscreen on, 
folded down over bonnet. Tags were attached with baling wire. I put on the 
closest thing i could find that resembled eye protection and set out for the 
first *legal* spin on the road in 4 months. The verdict is: succesful *so far* 
Everything seems to work well, and performance seems beter especially now that 
the burned valve has been eliminated. There does seem to be some funny noise 
coming from the motor, I think it's a little ignition timing problem, Im going 
to try retarding it a tad. 
I still have yet to:

Finish up axle breathers
Fix up lower dash and gauges, properly set up steering wheel
Finish bolting down wings
Bolt down floor panels
Properly attach bonnet and bonnet stay
Attach rear door.
Put the right wheels on..
Front door seals on new doorposts
Hook up heater controls
Put on roof
Hook up Stereo
Sort out winch motor overheating, then get cable, hooks, etc.

I'll probably take it to NTW since I have a lifetime balance and alignment deal 
there. Can't hurt...

Anyways, that's it till monday, it should be back home Satruday evening...

Cheers!

Dave B                                                                          
72 SIII SWB "Green Car"
Lic. Plate- NE WHERE...

                  
   ______|__  
  |____|_|__|
   (0)   (0)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 11:36:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca> writes...

>The adaptor is fabricated and sold by Paul Socholtiuk, 451 Adelaide St West,
>Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5V 1TL

I just spoke to Paul at the number Michel provided - 416-504-3633 - and
have more information, plus the following correction.

1) The spin-on oil filter adaptor is $40US, and a check drawn on a US bank
is fine.
2) The Postal code is M5V 1T1 -- NOT 1TL as Michel indicates.

Paul also claims to have some nice ex-military 109's and 110's available.
I know absolutely nothing about them, and just pass this along to anyone
who might be interested.

I'm going to go ahead and order the adaptor.  Even if I decide to switch
back to the old cannister type, I can keep it around for emergency use.
More info as it becomes available.  Thanks to everyone who voiced an
opinion.  Which isn't to say stop voicing them -- I haven't actually
installed the thing yet!

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 15:45:16 UT
From: "Douglas Main, jr" <douglastmain@msn.com>
Subject: Driveshaft phase

Howdy All,

The driveshaft phase phenominon (sp?) is hard to explain without pictures, but 
I'll give it a shot:

If you were to look at a driveshaft in corrrect phase from the top the bearing 
caps on both ends of the drive shaft (not the caps on the flanges that bolt to 
the trans and diff) will be alligned along the same plane.

A driveshaft out of phase would have the bearing caps out of alignment.  
Meaning that when you look at the shaft from the top one of the caps would be 
pointing straight up and the other would not be fully visible at the same 
position

Another way to view phase is when you are replacing the u joints:  First 
remove the u joints from both ends of the drive shaft.  Second lay the 
driveshaft down on a flat surface and support it by laying the yokes 
horizontally on a piece of wood or some thing that will raise the shaft so it 
is not touching the surface (equal height at both ends).  A drive shaft in 
correct phase will have both yokes at either end of the driveshaft  lying 
horizontally.

The reason why phase is critical to U joints is that the rotational velocity 
within the U joints is not constant when the two ends of the drive shaft are 
not in perfect allignment.  This is the natural state of driveshafts on any 
car with a suspension.  Anyway, when a drive shaft is out of phase the u joint 
at each end of the driveshaft wants to be going a slightly different speed due 
to their different angular position.  This slight difference in rotational 
velocity is translated into a noticeable vibration.  The vibration is 
basically the driveshaft trying to bend and twist  to compensate for the 
unequal rotational velocity at either end of the driveshaft.
 
Phase is the reason why Land Rover went from u joints  to CV (constant 
velocity) joints in the swivel pins of the front axle.  Because the of the 
open differential in the axle the U joints were rarely, if ever, in phase.  
This is obvious when you keep the rover 4 wheel drive on pavement and take a 
hard turn and the steering wheel is being jerked back and fourth.  The 
vibration is similar to what happens to an out of phase drive shaft.

I am sorry if this is not clear to all readers.  If anyone has any further 
questions drop me a line or post it on the lro digest

Have Fun,

Doug Main
douglastmain@msn.com
'73 & '66  88's

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 11:57:38 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

At 11:36 96-08-30 -0400, you wrote:
>2) The Postal code is M5V 1T1 -- NOT 1TL as Michel indicates.

OOps! 

Being Canadian, I should know that the second part of the postal code is #
letter #, and not # letter letter...

I took the address from the Report on the Spin-on adaptor found in the
October 1989 LRO by Jim Allen. It was a long term test on a Ser IIA (more
than 20,000 miles) and on a Ser III (more than 7000 miles) and proved to be
leakless miles (well, from the oil filter area...)

Sorry if anybody got confused, but it's not my fault... I won't do it again

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 09:04:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: vandecar@nwlink.com (Van Decar)
Subject: Cat under the D90 Bonnet!

OK, here is my story of why cats aren't high on my list of favorite animals
at the moment.  ;-) :
  
Last Saturday morning ( August 24) I was in San Antonio doing some errands
getting ready for my move to the U.K in September.  When I got up around
eight o'clock, the remnants of the hurricane were still around (big
blue/black thunder bumpers).  Well I got in the D90 and start driving to the
Ferrari dealer to drool (a standard stop every time I go to San Antonio)
when I hear a weird high pitched squeak.  At first I think it is nearby
birds but as I drive further I notice that the noise, although it is
intermittent, is staying with me.  I pull over to the side of the road and I
can still hear the noise and it sounds like it is coming from the engine
compartment.  I open the bonnet and start looking around and I'm face to
face with a little kitten about 3 months old I suppose!  The damn thing is
sitting on top of the gearbox meowing and not looking to happy.  I quickly
surmise, I am college grad after all ;), that during last night's
thunderstorms, the cat crawled up there seeking shelter.

Well there is no way I'm going to be able to grab it and pull it out for
three reasons:  
1. I don't have any gloves for claw/bite protection.  2. San Antonio and
surrounding areas (SW Tejas) are under a rabies quarantine.   3. The cat
starts hissing at me as soon as it sees me!

I found a long stick and started gently prodding the cat to see if it will
jump down on its own.  I mean the engine compartment is getting warm ( the
motor is turned off by the way) and the cat doesn't look to happy about last
night's choice of sleeping arrangements.

After a few prods (gently) the cat turns around on top of the gearbox and
disappears.  I look around for it but I can not see it and assume it jumped
down and ran off  into the nearby woods.

I hop back into the D90 and start driving again (freeway at 75 mph).  After
about five minutes I hear the same squeak, just barely audible above the
tire and wind noise.  I quickly exit at the first chance I get and pull into
a Community Church parking lot (this  location is important).  I open the
bonnet and again the damn cat is sitting on top of the gearbox!  I find
another stick and again gently begin prodding the cat to jump down.  It is
starting to pant now from the heat radiating from everywhere.  It hisses and
snarls at me then turns and crawls towards the back of the gearbox.  This
time I watch closely to see where it goes.  It is now obvious that the first
time I prodded the cat it just went out of reach, back on to the top of the
transfer case!  Well, I run around to the right side of the Rover and kneel
down where I can just see the cat through the gap between the top of the
frame and the bottom of the floor pan.  I use the same stick to gently prod
the cat back up towards the front of the Rover.  Now, the cat is really
panting and proceeds to climb around the left side of the engine compartment
to the top of the wheel arch.  The cat can now see daylight and I'm out of
sight, watching from the side, when the damn thing crawls down to the space
behind the headlight!  Frustrated, using my cell phone, I  call a few animal
shelters and animal rescue groups for help.  Evidently animals only need
rescuing on weekdays between 9-5!  All three groups had recordings which
promised to call me back.  They never did over the next 6 hours!  The Humane
Society didn't help much since they don't do rescues.  Well by now, I
getting real mad but I look at the Church and decide that not a real good
idea.  

For the next two hours I chase the cat all over drive train and engine
compartment with my stick (while rolling around the wet, muddy ground) with
no success.  At one point I disassemble the front headlight assembly to get
access to the cat.  I had put a pair of my socks on my hand thinking they
would offer some claw protection (they did!).  At one point I got hold of
the kitten by the back of the neck thinking it would relax like they do when
mom does it.  Didn't work.  As I tried to pull it through the headlight
opening it made such a racket I let it go.  I didn't want to hurt it trying
to keep it from hurting itself.  

Now I chased the kitty back  along the drive train towards the drive line
brake.  By now the cat and I have a mutual  hate relationship going; it is
hissing and snarling at just the sight of my face, and having now lost any
hope of getting all my errands done and back to Altus (Oklahoma) by 6 p.m.
are lost, I am thinking of stuffing the damn cat!  But I think better of it
since I am on holy ground of sorts.  Well the damn thing finally jumps down
and seems startled at the fact that it is on the ground.  I chase out from
under the Rover and it runs off about ten feet.  As I get ready to shut the
bonnet the cat sees me and freezes.  I try and scare it further away and it
runs for the D90!  It jumps up on the front differential and goes back into
my engine bay!!!!!!!!!!

Now I am PISSED OFF!  What kind of stupid frigging animal goes BACK into the
Hell it just got out of (me chasing it with a stick and the heat)?

Now the Rover is cooled off and the cat can go anywhere without burning
itself etc. I decide it needs more incentive to get all four paws back onto
terra firma, so I start driving again (after making sure the damn thing
isn't in the fan).  At this point my only hope is to heat up the engine
compartment enough to make anywhere else an attractive option!  Once the
temperature needle is in the normal zone, I pull over and open the bonnet,
and find the kitten nestled up underneath the brake reservoir (easily
accessible) and hurriedly put my socks on my right hand and grab the menace.
Up to this point it has been meowing most pitifully (crying actually) and
when I grab it, it starts hissing and howling again and trying to climb back
down towards the exhaust manifold!  I just kept pulling and out it came. I
gently tossed (!) the cat into the grass as it tried to shred my hand!!!
Well I really chased it off this time and ran back to the Rover and sped away. 

Cost ?:  about four hours of my time, a good pair of shorts and a T-shirt.
Lessons learned ?: cats aren't as smart as some think and animal rescue
groups only work 9-5 weekdays in S.A.

After all that, at my first stop, I found a five dollar bill laying in the
parking lot!!  Pennies from heaven for saving on of god's creatures? I don't
know but it makes you think (is a cat worth five bucks ?).    ;  )

Chris Van Decar
1994 D90  Slo-Mo VII

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 11:17:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: charles wolfe <cwolfe@d.umn.edu>
Subject: Where to advertise my Rovers for sale?

Where are good places to advertise my Landrovers on the web (besides 
Rovers' North)?

*********************************************************************

C. R. Wolfe M.D.				Emergency Medicine
Setters & Grouse				Duluth Clinic
New Independence, MN				Duluth, MN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 10:25:18 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

At 11:36 AM 30/08/96 -0400, Jeffrey A. Berg, wrote

>1) The spin-on oil filter adaptor is $40US, and a check drawn on a US bank
>is fine.
>2) The Postal code is M5V 1T1 -- NOT 1TL as Michel indicates.

I just had a chat with Paul myself and damned if I didn't start to get a
little too interested in one of the vehicles he's got.  Fortunately he's in
Toronto and I'm in Calgary and I can resist the temptation.

The oil filter adaptor sells for 65 Canadian (I assume plus taxes) and he
will accept a personal cheque.  He says he sells about a hundred a year
world wide and has been selling them for about 15 years.  I like the idea of
it.  

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 12:37:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

>>>>How do folks out there feel about using the adaptor and QUALITY (not
discount store) spin-on oil filters.  Specifically, are there any problems
with the set-up that won't be offset by my being more willing to change the
oil, and having filters readily available when I get the urge.

i have one of Paul's spin on adapeters on my '66 88. I got it though RN about
2 years ago (although I'm not sure if they still carry them). They sent along
the road test article, and they might fax you a copy if you asked. I changed
the oil exactly once with the old cannister and said "ENOUGH!" Uk. Mine still
leaks a little, but less than the cannister, and I like to use the newer
filters (FRAM, mostly). 

Advice: take the wing off to put it on. I did mine with the wing on and it
took about 4 hours because of the awkword reach and you can't use a rachet
on it (you'll understand why if you get one). A friend would've helped, too.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 14:22:41 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 110 Fuel Tank Question?

IMO you have three options.
1. Replace the fuel tank with either a new or good used unit.
2. Have the tank repaired by a qualified repair person who does this sort 
of thing all day every day.
3. Try to find and repair the leak yourself.

Items 1 and 2 are your safest bet as you have already pleaded ignorance 
regarding this situation. I highly recommend option 2. You'll get back a 
fuel tank that has been cleaned out, repaired, coated and ready for 
another 10 years.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: VizionTeam@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 14:31:22 -0400
Subject: RR Steering Box

The steering box on my '90 RR is leaking when it is parked in certain
directions.  I can't find a specific place it is leaking, however, I haven't
dismounted it from the frame and checked under.  LRNA says I need a new box.

Does anyone know of a used box out there.  What about the individual whose
sister's RR burned up?  I'm not too keen about putting my winch money into a
brand new $900 box.

Thanks,
Mike Hickman
VizionTeam@aol.com

P.S. I went to Georgia Tech, so my favorite "Rovering" song is
"I'm a Ramblin Wreck from Georgia Tech and a helluva engineer..."  You've got
to like a fight song that mentions wrecks, whiskey, and rum !!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 11:32:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Subject: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

On 1996-08-29Land-Rover-Owner said to johnliu@earthlink.net

   >How does one go about adapting?  Is there something on the NA
   >market or is a fabrication sort of thing?
   >Rick Grant
   >1959, SII   "VORIZO"

British Pacific (Burbank, CA)
used to sell the adapters, and perhaps they still do.
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer)

John Y. Liu

`[1;37;43mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Registered

------------------------------

From: "Richard Larson" <rlarson@vineyard.mti.sgi.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 11:38:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Dif Protection

Call Greg (or Brandi) at Safari Gard.

Safari Gard
41095 Fig St.
Murrieta, CA 92562
(909) 698-6114

They have diff guards.  They work.  Ask for a D90 catalog.  The Black '94
D90 in the catalog is mine, at least the last catalog I saw, drop me
email if you have any questions.   (I'm just a satisfied customer, this
isn't an ad.)

-Rick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 14:50:51 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Oil filter options ...?

Just thinking as I peruse this oily discourse, as long as one is adapting 
to a spin-on type filter, why not remote that pup to a more accessable 
location...say, on the wing or bulkhead or the passenger footwell or in 
the toolbox or on the roofrack or inside next to the La-Z-Boy.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 15:09:21 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Spin on oil filter: Pros & Cons???

>>>>How do folks out there feel about using the adaptor and QUALITY (not
discount store) spin-on oil filters.  Specifically, are there any problems
with the set-up that won't be offset by my being more willing to change the
oil, and having filters readily available when I get the urge.

i have one of Paul's spin on adapeters on my '66 88. I got it though RN about
2 years ago (although I'm not sure if they still carry them). They sent along
the road test article, and they might fax you a copy if you asked. I changed
the oil exactly once with the old cannister and said "ENOUGH!" Uk. Mine still
leaks a little, but less than the cannister, and I like to use the newer
filters (FRAM, mostly). 

Advice: take the wing off to put it on. I did mine with the wing on and it
took about 4 hours because of the awkword reach and you can't use a rachet
on it (you'll understand why if you get one). A friend would've helped, too.

Ah. I did mine with the engine OUT. And it was still a pain in the "tuchus"!
I'm not sur if mine is one of the famous Paul Schococholate whatevers, but it's 
a round chunk of Aluminum with two bolts that are "semi-captive" that hold it 
in. The filter points straight out from the engine, and the senders come out 
towards the front of the engine and point upwards a little. I think mine leaked 
befroe, hopefully it won't with it's new gasket. (Shh...)

later 

dave
I won't take any leaks!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 15:16:08 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Oil filter options ...?

Bill suggests:

Just thinking as I peruse this oily discourse,....snip.......... why not remote 
that pup to a more accessable 
location...say, on the wing or .......snip.....or in 
the toolbox or....... inside next to the La-Z-Boy.

Fine, but I wouldn't put it in your ARB locker. If it leaked the fumes could 
combine and become QUITE hazardous...

Dave
Digging up old stinks 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:36:59 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Rework the Tdi for the US?

What were some people writing two days ago?
And I thought that the direct-injection-turbo-intercooled Tdi was a modern,
clean diesel engine.
Is emission a problem with the Tdi?

Jan.

p.s. Dixon: Do you really think I could put a sledge to my cilinderhead
without destroying it?
Or were you just kidding?
I will build something to (try to) lever it off tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, Netherlands.

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:23:08 +0001
Subject: Re: T-shirts

> What's going on with the t-shirts? I've seen the designs, but has any   
> design emerged as the favorite? If so, where do the $ (or =FA ) get sent=
?
> Mark Maslar
> '95 D-90

Not yet, it seems. But there is still a few things to decide before 
we can promote the list in technicolor and wide screen (check the 
sizes people are ordering).

1. A design must be chosen by vote.

2. Means of distribution must be decided (iron-on, local shirt print 
   shop, central production...)

3. Number of colors may be reduced (before/after the vote) to make 
   shirts cheaper.

May i suggest that we discuss the above items in reverse order?

If anybody else is working on a design, hurry up and go public. Even 
if it's still a rough sketch. 

rgds
sv/aurens 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:49:11 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Swoopy the Landy

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 109 2-door Goes where it's pointed, but after a while on the highway the
> steering starts to feel, as best I can describe, "swoopy".
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> steering starts to feel, as best I can describe, "swoopy".
> You turn the wheel, it starts to turn, then it TURNS. Odd.

> THis has got me stumped - any ideas?

Alan - I did not see the complete posting since my favourite digest has 
eaten everything but the heading, but I had a similar problem on a VW camper 
once. This thing was very old when I bought it, and I drove it to Sweden and 
back with that kind of steering - went along the German autobahn, in the 
right-hand lane of course, then something even slower than us would appear, 
I would wait until it was safe to pass, then start steering to the left, and 
nothing would happen for quite some time, until the camper would suddenly 
jump for the center guardrail. Kind of scary until you get used to it. On 
the way back in Kassel I went to the Documenta, an exhibition of modern art, 
and also bought new tires in front since the old ones were getting kind of 
very, very thin. From Kassel to Vienna I steered with one hand. The tires 
were mismatched, one was radial and one was conventional, and that caused 
incredible problems. Maybe you have a similar problem - uneven profile, 
unequal pressure, something like that.

Also maybe I misunderstood what little I saw of your message!
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:49:08 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SIII Oil Consumption

Geoffrey Said from beautiful Malta (one of the few European countries I 
haven't visited yet) wrote:

>I a 2.25l Rover Engine does a milage of around 150 miles and consumes about a 
>coke bottle and a half of oil, is it normal?

>The engine does not smoke blue, those not consume water and there are no major 
>leakages, just some drops.  

>Also where I live (Malta) is full of slopes and this requires many 
gearchanging 
>which affect the engine as it must be kept under pressure.

>Sorry for reasking the question about oil but I was not totally convinced 
by the 
>previous answers.

>Geoffrey
>Proud Landrover Owner
>1979 Series III 109"

Geoffrey - I would say much too much. For a reasonably healthy 2.25 half a 
litre for 1,000 km (about 600 m) would be tolerable, but it seems to be 
about 1.5 litres for your pride and joy. If there are no visible leaks and 
if there is no blue smoke - when did you last check your plug bellhousing? I 
would check the compression, though, that is easy and cheap, anyway.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:34:20 -0400
Subject: Re: PARTS

>* Series III transmission/gearbox; Once rebuilt and in great shape 
>except for the 3rd to 4th synchro.

What do you want for the tranny?  My son's at the U of O, but had to 
leave his IIa with me because of a problematic gearbox (I bought the 
Rover new in '70 and passed it on a couple of years ago).  I might be 
able to nurse 'ol Lulubelle to Eugene and do the swap there instead of 
here in Madison.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:41:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Rework the Tdi for the US?

Jan wonders:

>What were some people writing two days ago?
>And I thought that the direct-injection-turbo-intercooled Tdi was a modern,
>clean diesel engine.
>Is emission a problem with the Tdi?

The Tdi is a modern, clean DIESEL engine. However, like all other diesel
engines while it is efficient (useful work for the fuel consumed) it has
certain emission characterisitics which make meeting the US requirements
non-trivial. Nasty things called particulates are a primary problem.
Currently passenger cars and small trucks have to meet essentially the same
requirements whether gasoline or diesel powered. Mercedes gave up on diesel
cars several years ago and most (maybe all) of the diesel trucks in the US
are over 8500# GVW which means emmision requirments are simpler.

Note also that clean is a relative term. Modern diesels put out much less
smoke and visible emissions than older engines, but they still produce other
pollutants. BTW, I recently saw the figure of 96% as the reduction in
emmissions for a passenger car today compared to the unregulated past.

David Cockey

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 18:05:43 -0400
Subject: Re: U-joints in phase....

Unlike modern CV (for Constant Velocity) joints, our U (for Universal) joints
accelerate and decelerate as the driveshaft rotates.  These forces need to be
cancelled out or they will cause vibration and accelerated (no pun intended)
U-joint wear.  I suppose this is why drive shafts have two u-joints, so they
can cancel out each others forces.  To do this they have to be in phase.  To
place the U-joints in phase on a shaft with a slip joint a set of arrows to
line up helps, but the idea is to have the yokes on the shaft in the same
plane.  Pretent there are  no U-joints  and the drive shaft is one piece -
the yokes at each end should be in the same plane.  If that's right the yokes
mounted to the shaft by the U-joints will also be in the same plane - in
other works the yokes on the end flanges will be in the same plane.  If it's
all like that you're doing well and your shaft is in phase.  It's not as hard
as I've made it sound.
Cheers,
erik
Erik van Dyck
'73 Ser III in phase 88
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 18:08:21 -0400
Subject: Half Shafts

Rick Grant writes about broken half shafts: "You know, from the number of
times this happens to people I think I'll lash a couple (I have 4 spares)
under the frame with duct tape.  If they're there permanently that will
guarantee I will never need them.  (I hope)"

You realize, of course, that if you carry the spares you will never really
need them.  This is a corollary to Murphy's Law.

Paul Donohue
Denver
1965 LR Dormobile

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 18:07:58 -0400
Subject: Trevor's Flame Fodder

re: flame fodder

Trevor Easton has shared with us his observations on a new 4x4, the Toy
Otter RAV4.  Thank you Trevor.

One of the interests which brought me 30 years ago to Land Rovers was an
even older interest in Jeeps, 4x4s, old military trucks and other utility
machines.  I hope that our list is like a big tent and able to include
diverse interests.

This old owner of an old Land Rover is eager to hear about new 4x4
developments as well as how to keep my quirky old one running.

(BTW, wasn't the Otter built by DeHaviland?)

Paul Donohue
Denver
1965 LR Dormobile

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:26:59 -6
Subject: GPS alert

Not exactly LR/RR topic, except that I know a number of people use 
them.

Apaprently a GPS battery vented (mil speak for exploding) in a 
Precision Lightweight GPS receiver at Fort Irwin in July. They haven't 
been able to determine if it is systemic or anomalous.
In the meantime this is the reccomnedation"

"Until further notice, if operating PLGRs with external power, remove
prime power battery. This includes BA5800 lithiums and AA lithium
batteries when used with AA battery holder. The use of AA alkaline
batteries when used with the AA battery holder is safe, even if holder
deforms. In other words when operating on external power the prime
power battery compartment should not contain any lithium 
batteries!!!"

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jo=E3o_Tom=E1s_Parreira?= <jparreira@mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Re: Santana Motor Swaps?
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 23:08:52 +-200

>Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:31:30 -0500
>From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: Santana Motor Swaps?

>Were there any Santanas imported into New Mexico?  <g>

>On a more serious note.  Does Santana still build vehicles such as 
>Defenders?  Are they still in business?

> jc "Glad the Olympics are gone but I miss the visitors and excitement."

Hi John P:

Unfortunately the company Metallurgica de SantaAna went bankrupt in the 80's.
This means they are not in business :-(

If anyone on the list wants to get hold of a Santana Landy there are loads of them
in the North of Spain (OURENSE - ZAMORA). I spent my holidays in the Sanabria
Lake and it seemed the Land Rovers were the national vehicle. I saw over 100 in
two weeks (I'm talking about SIII 109).

Happy Rovering
Joao Parreira

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 18:27:20 -0500
From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Database

John P. Casteel;
We need some '86 presence on your list!

173600967,1956,series I,'86,none,canvas 
beige,Ontario,Canada,DD,?,hilltop@advatage.ca,unk,DD on a series I is 
still close to DY

Have a 1958 I'll send you later
						Ronald

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 17:33:28 -6
Subject: Re: U-joints in phase....

> Unlike modern CV (for Constant Velocity) joints, our U (for Universal) joints
-
A minor point. CV joints aren't "modern". The very early Land Rovers 
had CV's in the front axle I believe, and in any case, my ex DoD 1952 GMC 
6x6 (hardly a modern vehicle) had front axle CV joints. It's merely a 
cost issue which are installed.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 09:22:18 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Locking diffs

>MacNamara makes a special modified Hypoid diff for the Land-Rover

>(four-pinion carriers and 24-spline half-shafts) and a simple manual locker
>(works sort of like a free-wheeling hub on one side and is for the rear only).

I saw one of these a month or so back.  It's basically a lengthened (short
side) half-shaft, with a large nut on the end (where the hub dust cap would
be).  Loosen the nut, and a spring pushes the halfshaft spines though the
centre of the diff so that they mate with the far-side pinion gear as well
as the normal gear. This locks the diff.

To unlock, tighten the nut, withdrawing the inner end of the half-shaft
from the diff body so that it only engages with the correct pinion.

I'm not explaining this very well, but unlocked you have a normal diff,
with about 4" of lengthened half-shaft sticking out beyond the wheel hub.
Locked, the 4" extension disappears, and the inner end ends up attached to
both sides of the diff, locking it.  Actuation is with a large spanner
(when stopped :-)).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 20:38:06 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: U-joints in phase....

Thanks for the great explanations of this phenomenon. Are there any implications 
for "between-shaft" phase, i.e. of concern in Niva and Defender full-time 4WD? 
If a single propshaft is set up properly with the ends in phase, is the second 
shaft set up independently or should it match the other (i.e. the "view from the 
top" check described in one of the posts)?

BTW with the recent posts about dogs crashing RRs in the UK and cats invading 
LRs in TX, I'm glad to report that I finally found the source of the persistant 
ant presence last week - their base of operations was in the cab headlining. The 
door seal rubber provided them a concealed route to the dash, and hence 
everywhere electrical. A quick blast of some environmental unfriendliness should 
have solved it for good. 

LR makes a screen to exclude small furry mammals from the engine bay. Perhaps it 
hasn't been advertised in the US.
Allan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:48:05 -0400
From: Richard Ruffer <rruffer@interserv.com>
Subject: Re: Dif Protection

Dirk Tischer wrote:
> Does anybody know a good source for a Differential Skid plate for a D90.

I recently put a diff guard on my D90 after a run in with a rock.  I
ended up getting mine from British Pacific.  It's actually made by
Safari Gard, I think.  It went on easily, but I had to remove the
panhard rod to put it on.  It was $85 or $95, I forget which.  Rovers
North also sells diff guards from a different source.  They are in the
$125-$145 range, and they were out of stock as of last week.  LROI
always has some venders selling some, such as Southdown.  Southdown's
look very sturdy (the British Army uses them, or something that looks
identical).  I belive they are quite expensive though, especially when
you add in shipping.  As I recall, Mark Talbot on the rro list posted
that he is going to place an order next week, so you might get in on it
and save some shipping.  Are you out there Mark?

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: 30 Aug 96 21:56:14 EDT
From: Rob Dennis <73363.427@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Trevor's Flame Fodder

>> (BTW, wasn't the Otter built by DeHaviland?) <<

Yes, along with the Beaver (Not Gerry Mathers). The 88 and 109 of airplanes.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]     1996 Discovery
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 30-Aug-1996

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 21:52:29 -0500
From: Scott Fugate <sfugate@mail.tds.net>
Subject: Johnny Quest's Rover

I caught about half an episode of the new, 90s version of "Johnny Quest"
tonight on the Cartoon Network.  (Yeah, quality time with the four year
old.) Big differences in the new version from the 60s classic.  Johnny and
Hadji are teenagers now, and Race Bannon has gained a red-headed teen
daughter and a Southern accent.  Bandit seems to have gone missing.
Johnny's hair isn't nearly so cool.

I didn't quite catch the plot of the show - something about racing the bad
guys to  where elephants go to die - but the vehicle lineup was pretty neat.
The African soldiers, or game rangers, or whatever they were had a Willis
Jeep, and something that looked just like a 101 FC, except that it had a
tracked rear end.  The bad guy had a Humvee (mentioned as such in the
script) and an Australian accent.  The best vehicle, though, was the Heroes'
Rover.  It was an early IIa 88 with no top.  Every panel was dented.  It had
the deluxe bonnet with a spare mount, but no tire.  At one one point after a
breakdown, Race lifts the hood and proclaims "stick a fork in this, it's
done",  Every one of us would easily recognize the cylindrical air cleaner
and the corrugated breather hose under the hood.  Inexplicably, the truck
runs later, after an elephant stomps the bad guys.  I wish mine would fix
itself like that.

Anyway, check the show out.  The artists definitely have good taste in
transportation.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 1996 22:07:48 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Vehicle database

Here's another entry for whoever is compiling the Land Rover database.

1973 Series III Model 88.  Limestone, 2-1/4 petrol.  I am the original
owner and still drive the vehicle today.  It's equipped with a Fairey
Capstan Winch with the Rescue Drum, a Fairey Overdrive, and Warn Hubs.

If by chance you are compiling data on Range Rovers, I also am the original
owner of a 1991 Vogue SE.

Both vehicles are in Redmond, Washington (east of Seattle).

C. Marin Faure
        author, Flying A Floatplane

------------------------------

From: redorman@plix.com (Dorman, Robert )
Subject: database
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 00:17:34 -0700

For the database:
24407381A,64,IIa,88,none,green,Washington,USA,dd,unk,redorman@plix.com,lro-n
et,I think I'm 2nd owner

It has 4-cylinder gasoline(petrol) engine, but curiously, has a
non-functional engine speed hand control (P.29 of owners manual) that is
supposed to be for diesel models.  Maybe mine was converted.  Also, it
floods easily, and I have to remove the air intake connection and blow into
it to evaporate the excess gasoline.  This happened more often when I first
got the vehicle about two years ago and wasn't used to the stick shift and
clutch (my "regular" car is a 4wd Chevy suburban w/auto xmission).

-----------
A truly wise man will not be carried away by any of the eight winds:
prosperity, decline, disgrace, honor, praise, censure, suffering and
pleasure.  He is neither elated by prosperity nor grieved by decline.
                          ---Nichiren Daishonin

------------------------------

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