Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Ernest Young [ernyoung@e20Re: T-shirt Idea
2 Michael Carradine [cs@cr25Re[415]: T-shirt Idea
3 Lodelane@aol.com 14T-Shirts
4 Ernest Young [ernyoung@e29Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
5 lopezba@atnet.at 23Re: Disgusting Attachments
6 lopezba@atnet.at 30Re: SII clutch trouble
7 lopezba@atnet.at 71S I Restoration
8 Solihull@aol.com 10Re: What the Hell is wrong with y'all?!
9 Richard Justin Chala [rc13Disc Brakes?
10 nahari ofir [ofir_n@park20Re: S I Restoration
11 nahari ofir [ofir_n@park24Re: Series restoration manuals
12 uf974@freenet.victoria.b36Sightings and Speedo woes (gloat)
13 Solihull@aol.com 26Wheel bearings
14 harincar@internet.mdms.c25Re: Land Rover duds
15 Solihull@aol.com 12Re:Loose nuts
16 Solihull@aol.com 22Re: Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing
17 rovah@agate.net (John Ca25Hard Top questions
18 rover@pinn.net (Alexande19T-shirts
19 Wdcockey@aol.com 32Re: S I Restoration - It never ends
20 David Rosenbaum [rosenba17Pull-Pal is INEXPENSIVE compared to new Nautical Anchors
21 David Rosenbaum [rosenba2[not specified]
22 David Place [dplace@SIRN10solid state ignition


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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 10:49:34 -0400
From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: T-shirt Idea

This is a possible design...
	
	Land-rover.team.net
	(land rover badge)
	The internet is the only place my Rover can't go

	The top and bottom lines would follow the contours of the badge and 
assume an oval shape. If you like it I'll draw up a sample. I also have a 
screen printer who owns a 68 Dormobile I can get a price on for the 
shirts.

Ernie Young
Firefighter/Artist
ernyoung@earthlink.net
90 RR

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 08:19:36 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re[415]: T-shirt Idea

At 10:49 AM 8/4/96 -0400, Ernie Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net> wrote:
:This is a possible design...
:	
:     Land-rover.team.net
      /
 Should'nt this be "Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com" ??

:     (land rover badge)
:     The internet is the only place my Rover can't go
:
:     The top and bottom lines would follow the contours of the badge

 Regards from California, host of ...sun.com,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 12:44:09 -0400
Subject: T-Shirts

Oh wise keeper of the Sacred List,

Put me down for two large and two extra large T-Shirts.

Thanks,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 14:13:31 -0400
From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Peter

to your reply

[My two penny worth, any graphics for a t-shirt would look good on a 
sticker on
the rear window of my beast and would also make identification of other 
like
minded types easier if their t-shirt is in the wash! (could be extended 
to spare
wheel covers if you like) LRO Bookshop for distribution would be ok if 
they sold
them this side of the pond too.

Peter J. Gronous
Surrey, England]

I've got a vinyl cutter for making signs and such. I could easily 
manufacture a coupla lro decals for windows, bumpers, & spare tire 
covers (although I doubt it'd hold to my interior carpeting) 
	However, finding a screen printer to make up some bumper stickers 
would be a much easier job than cutting up a gazillion LRO ID tags.

Ernie

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:49 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Disgusting Attachments

What is it with you guys? I go on vacation for three days and somebody tries 
to move into my territory, i. e. Absolutely Disgusting Attachments to Land 
Rovers? I won't have it! Talked to my friend immediately, and we developed a 
few additional ideas; however, since the full moon is long past, telling you 
would be flogging a dead horse. 

However, here's some news: He called BMW a few weeks ago to see whether they 
were interested in co-operation in the field of Attachments to Land Rovers, 
and they listened and then called him back to state that they could not 
pursue the idea of co-operation since our ideas were not politically 
correct. This apparently came directly from the horse's mouth. Well, we'll 
have to wait until the Republicans get a majority in Germany, and then we'll 
all be in clover!

Until then
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:40 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SII clutch trouble

Brian -
>I have a SII 88 which has a shuddering clutch. I am not sure what the 
>cause is. There does not seem to be an excessive amount of oil in the 
>belhousing,only two small puddles at the bottom, but then I'm not sure how 
much or how little there is 
>allowed to be. The pressure plate has a small amount of 
>contamination on the inner radius, but the flywheel does not have any 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>release bearing?
>If you have any advice please mail me direct.

You already got some good advice about how to tell the difference between 
gear oil and motor oil; also about parking downhill. However, from your 
description my first guess would be that one of your engine mounts is shot. 
Check them before you do anything drastic. One method I have heard of is to 
open the hood/bonnet (it is bonnet in SA, isn't it?), stand on the bumper 
and have a friend who knows what he/she is doing and who does not hold any 
grudge against you let in the clutch slowly. Needless to say there should 
not be any obstacle in front of the car. If the engine bounces around like 
mad, it would be an engine mount.
Good luck, check on your life insurance and remember - worth what you paid 
for it!
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:51 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: S I Restoration

Dear all, today the weather was pretty bad and I decided to get on with my 
work on my 1958 S I LWB Station Wagon. The basic idea is to take it apart as 
much as possible without doing anything too drastic, doing the necessary 
repairs, giving it a new coat of paint and a few other cosmetics and having 
it on the road again in April or May 1997.

Started taking down the roof, and removing the trim. Much to my surprise, 
most of the dozens of screws and bolts were in pretty good shape and yielded 
without major problems. Only the trim of the left-hand front window had 
decayed badly, nothing would move and I ended up removing two captive bolts 
with an angle grinder. Needless to say I did not get half as far as planned, 
the roof is still up there and the trim on the left hand rear window will 
not yield, not due to rust but because the nut would be about 8,5 mm across, 
and requires a very slim and long socket. I managed to get one of the nuts 
out with a 9 mm socket, but rounded the other one. Will make a small insert 
into the socket until the next time. Must have been a lot of fun installing 
the trim in the first place.

Another nice piece of LR engineering: The tropical roof is held in place 
firstly by 14 2-inch bolts with distance pieces around the edges; then by 
stiffeners riveted to the tropical roof and bolted to the roof front and 
rear; and lastly by the roof stiffeners that the tropical roof is riveted 
to. I have not dealt with these rivets yet, and I am not sure I will drill 
all seventy-five of them out; but - what would you use to bolt the tropical 
roof stiffeners to the roof? In case you don't remember what the tropical 
roof looks like, it is a second skin about an inch from the roof, with the 
front edge coming down about 1/4 inch; the bolts sit about an inch behind 
this edge, fastening the L-shaped ribs that go the length of the tropical 
roof to the roof itself. Now we have a problem of accessability, don't we? 
Basically there is access from the front (or the rear for the rear bolts) 
only, and the bolts sit pretty close to the rib, so you would think of a hex 
head and then you could just about stick the right size spanner in and hold 
fast to the head that way and work on the nut on the ceiling of the cab with 
another spanner or a socket or whatever. But you and I did not work for L-R 
in the fifties. Whoever designed this either was concerned about the drag on 
a hex bolt head, or the noise created by the air flow on that obstruction, 
or they had a surplus of mushroom bolts that they could not get rid of in 
any other way - anyway, there is the flattest mushroom bolt head there, it 
touches the rib so you have no chance to grab it with pliers (which I would 
hate to do anyway), and the only tool that will cope with it is an s-shaped 
screwdriver with a rather long blade and not more than about 1/2 inch before 
the first angle. Not even LR special tool 1 or 2 would help here. So - 
another trip to the toolshop on Monday!

And here's a SPOT: The trim on the rear doors is held in place by a delicate 
profile of aluminium, screwed to the doorframe with five screws, except in 
my case one of them was a nail which had gone through the galvanized 
doorframe and the door panel, then was ground away and painted over. I 
drilled it out. Now I have to find a way of repairing the hole in the 
doorframe, and the hole in the panel, and putting the profile back on the 
door after everything has been painted...

BTW, I stole a lot of small freezer bags from my wife and use them for 
keeping the screws, bolts, washers, nuts and other small odds and ends in 
them. They have a panel that you can write on with a normal ballpoint pen, 
and wire twists to close them. I also have larger zip-lock bags and use them 
to keep all the smaller bags together; e.g. my ziplock bag "Roof and Rear 
Upper Body" so far holds freezer bags for "Headliner Rear", "Headliner 
Center", "Headliner Front", "Ventilators", "Tropical Roof" and so on. I also 
label all the larger parts I remove. My short-term memory is not what it 
used to be... Any suggestions?

Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 16:31:16 -0400
Subject: Re: What the Hell is wrong with y'all?!

Well, it sure is good to see that the second person plural contraction has at
least made some inroads into other versions of the mother language. See
y'all!!! Cheers! John Dillingham Woodstock, Georgia (the one in Dixie, not
the former USSR one)

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 14:57:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Justin Chala <rchala@gladstone.uoregon.edu>
Subject: Disc Brakes?

Hi all, I was wondering if it is possible to convert to disc brakes 
without changing over to RR or Defender axles.  I have a ser. III 88" 
with a Salisbury rear end.

Thanks for any info.

Richard Chala
rchala@gladstone.uoregon.edu

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 01:40:09 +0400
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: S I Restoration

At 09:42 PM 8/4/96 +0200, you wrote:
>Dear all, today the weather was pretty bad and I decided to get on with my 
>work on my 1958 S I LWB Station Wagon. The basic idea is to take it apart as 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 71 lines)]
>SI 107in S/W
>Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
>hi peter
I'm doing the same thing to my rover that turned to be an s1 80" '50 or '51.
I still have to get another engine,a left door and a rear door.
yesterday i took off the roof quite violently which was a lot of fun since
it wasn't original and was made of chicken cages parts(!).I will probebly
take it apart completley since it didn't move for at least 25 years (I found
the registration sticker on the windshield dated 1970).
good luck
ofir

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 01:40:13 +0400
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Series restoration manuals

At 04:23 PM 8/3/96 EDT, you wrote:
>I've lost the message now but whoever was looking for books to aid in
>restoration of Series Landrovers, essential is to get the parts book and

perhaps
>the official workshop manual. Putting them back together is greatly helped by
>looking at the pretty pictures showing the assembly order of various parts
which
>are not so obvious. Someone else has already suggested them but another
>worthwhile book is put out by Haynes (No.F681) "Guide to purchase & DIY
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Surrey, England
>hi peter
i was look for help aboat my 1951 s1 80"
thank you for your help
still have a lot of work since it wasn't on the road for at least 25 years.
bye for now
Ofir Nahari
Israel

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 15:47:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Sightings and Speedo woes (gloat)

1) in the Sony commercial for their new tiny
videocam.  A couple is bombing around what
looks like New Zeland? in an experienced
white SI 80"

2) watched a bit of a McGuyver 2 weeks 
ago (someone else had control of the remote)
He is in Bosnia with John Rhys Davies
and escapes in a series LR with no
engine..they strap on a couple of what looked
like air to air missiles sans warhead and fizzled
off at 20mph.  I guess the producers did not know
about the guy in Nevada a couple of years ago
who strapped two JATO units to his car.  The cops
figure he was going about 200+mph before he 
became airborne and pasted into a cliff.

Thanks all for the help on the speedo problems.
1/2 hour to pop off the driveshaft and retorque
the cast. nut (it was almost finger tight!) and
the speedo works fine.  So what other important
nuts should be looked at? Clever of LR to use the
speedo as a loose drive nut indicator eh?

CDC

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 18:56:15 -0400
Subject: Wheel bearings

>>Remove the stub axle, put it in a vise with the stub part facing up, use a
cold chisel, and carefully split the old race, striking blows parallel to the
axle line.

Did I miss something? Changing wheel bearings on my 3s and 2s, I've only used
a chisel for getting the outer race out of the inside of the hub. Never had
one stick to the stub axle. 
>>don't tighten the hub nuts excessively
I tighten em just a little past snug (unless using a torque wrench) then back
off, then sloooowwwwlly snug it up til the thrust washer just does slide
around between the bearing race and the nuts, when twisting a screwdriver on
the thrust's edge to get it to slide. I got this method from John Muir in his
"How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" Book. 
John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 
73 s3 SWB
72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over
66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer
73 VW Sedan- Daisy 
Vintage Rover Service
"Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!"

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 17:30:15 -0500
Subject: Re:  Land Rover duds

Re: Pith Helmets... I have an olive green one that I picked up somewhere along
the line, probably at an estate sale or flea market. It was US Marine issue 
in 1945 (so stamped inside). It has a leather adjuster/sweat band with actual
laces, none of this sissy velcro or elastic. The biggest difference between 
this and the brit version (other than the color) is that mine is almost round,
to the eliptical that there's is.

I might be tempted to part with it. Maybe trade it for an o.d. or soft top &
hoops... (just kidding).

Lets see, I also have two fedoras (one just like Indy's), a french forign legion
cap (non authentic) and my current favorite is a jungle rain floppy hat that
I found at the local fleet farm for $7.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:09:46 -0400
Subject: Re:Loose nuts

Clinton writes: So what other important
nuts should be looked at? Clever of LR to use the
speedo as a loose drive nut indicator eh?

In my case, the one holding the wheel!!  :-)
Cheers!!! John Dillingham

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:14:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing

Ronald, your manifold vacuum is highest when idling or closing the throttle
on decelleration. If your crank seal is way up there on the rockwell scale,
your valve stem seals probably are, too. Doesn't the s1 (and the 2.6 and
3litre F heads, for that matter) use the o-ring seals that fit in a recess
inside the valve guide? Renew those, or convert to the umbrella type while
the head is off. And do try to replace that crank seal, too, before it cuts a
groove in the crankshaft, if it hasn't already. Ditto, the crank pulley seal.
A talented and creative machinist should be able to do the valve guides and
seals with readily available bits. Cheers!! 

John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 
73 s3 SWB
72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over
66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer 
Vintage Rover Service
"Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!"

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:33:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Hard Top questions

Boy am I excited!!  I finally got the wiring set on the rear lights this
weekend and then bolted the rear body to the frame.  In my euphoria(and for
weather protection!), I convinced my wife to help me lift the hard top onto
the vehicle to "see how it looks."  Well, all the holes line up where
they're supposed to, but there's one problem....there is a gap between the
body and the top joint that increases as you move forward from the very
back, to the front of the rear body.  Gap is probably about 1/4 inch.
      I replaced the rear cross-member(with extensions) and wonder whether
the rear is sitting up a little too much.  The windshield bolts are snugged
down fully.  The seals on the bottom of the top are really quite
shrivelled, but it looks like this gap may be a little extreme!  Any
suggestions/other experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:50:51 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: T-shirts

>Sorta like the Rovers north adv. regarding how the guy working on his 
>Rover.... I don't recall the signature on the illustration, but...

That'd be Sand Toler.  Just got his design for this year's Mid-Atlantic
Rally shirt in today's post.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 23:02:36 -0400
Subject: Re: S I Restoration - It never ends

Peter plans to do a little bit of work on his SI

>The basic idea is to take it apart as 
>much as possible without doing anything too drastic, doing the necessary 
>repairs, giving it a new coat of paint and a few other cosmetics and having 
>it on the road again in April or May 1997.

This is one of the major deceptions of LR ownership (or any old vehicle). You
plan to do a few minor repairs, and without fully understanding how it
happened, it is half diassassembled. You keep finding additional items that
need repair, or are not quite right, or are just potential future trouble,
and decide that since things are alread apart there won't be a better time to
deal with them. So you take some more apart, discocover yet more to do, and
the cycle is repeated. Years later the LR is finally boack on the road, or
gathering dust.

The opposite phenomenem is possible. Your ignore the other problems, just do
what you planned, and several days later it is take everything back off to
fix it. At least the bolts are free.

I started to replace the brakes and clutch hydraulics on our SII PU, and now
everything ahead of the bulkhead other than the axle and springs has been
removed, and the cylinder head is off the engine. But I'm making progress.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 20:14:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Pull-Pal is INEXPENSIVE compared to new Nautical Anchors

Since posing the question about nautical anchors as ground anchors, I've
found the following in the West Marine 1996 Catalogue:

West Marine Performance Anchor (looks like well-built Danforth):
WT.	BOAT SIZE	WORKING LOAD	PRICE
25 lbs	  30-44		  1800 lbs	$ 165.
40	  38-50	 	  3000 		  249.
70	  45-70		  5000		  525.

CQR Plow Anchors: wts. range from 25-75 lbs, prices range from $400-$900!!

By comparison, Pull-Pal is less expensive and lighter by far.

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 23:12:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: solid state ignition

A few weeks ago I asked if anyone had information on a solid state 
ignition system I have here.  It turns ofut to be an Allison Breakerless 
Ignition System Model 17.  If anyone has the instructions on how to 
install it I would appreciate a copy.  You can E-Mail me direct.  Thanks  
Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 22:24:16 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: LRs in Ads today (Sunday)

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B
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