[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Ernest Young [ernyoung@e | 20 | Re: T-shirt Idea |
2 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 25 | Re[415]: T-shirt Idea |
3 | Lodelane@aol.com | 14 | T-Shirts |
4 | Ernest Young [ernyoung@e | 29 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
5 | lopezba@atnet.at | 23 | Re: Disgusting Attachments |
6 | lopezba@atnet.at | 30 | Re: SII clutch trouble |
7 | lopezba@atnet.at | 71 | S I Restoration |
8 | Solihull@aol.com | 10 | Re: What the Hell is wrong with y'all?! |
9 | Richard Justin Chala [rc | 13 | Disc Brakes? |
10 | nahari ofir [ofir_n@park | 20 | Re: S I Restoration |
11 | nahari ofir [ofir_n@park | 24 | Re: Series restoration manuals |
12 | uf974@freenet.victoria.b | 36 | Sightings and Speedo woes (gloat) |
13 | Solihull@aol.com | 26 | Wheel bearings |
14 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 25 | Re: Land Rover duds |
15 | Solihull@aol.com | 12 | Re:Loose nuts |
16 | Solihull@aol.com | 22 | Re: Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing |
17 | rovah@agate.net (John Ca | 25 | Hard Top questions |
18 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 19 | T-shirts |
19 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 32 | Re: S I Restoration - It never ends |
20 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 17 | Pull-Pal is INEXPENSIVE compared to new Nautical Anchors |
21 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 2 | [not specified] |
22 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 10 | solid state ignition |
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 10:49:34 -0400 From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: T-shirt Idea This is a possible design... Land-rover.team.net (land rover badge) The internet is the only place my Rover can't go The top and bottom lines would follow the contours of the badge and assume an oval shape. If you like it I'll draw up a sample. I also have a screen printer who owns a 68 Dormobile I can get a price on for the shirts. Ernie Young Firefighter/Artist ernyoung@earthlink.net 90 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 08:19:36 -0700 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re[415]: T-shirt Idea At 10:49 AM 8/4/96 -0400, Ernie Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net> wrote: :This is a possible design... : : Land-rover.team.net / Should'nt this be "Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com" ?? : (land rover badge) : The internet is the only place my Rover can't go : : The top and bottom lines would follow the contours of the badge Regards from California, host of ...sun.com, ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== Rumpole of the Bay 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover Roughmobile cs@crl.com __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^ '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88") _______________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 12:44:09 -0400 Subject: T-Shirts Oh wise keeper of the Sacred List, Put me down for two large and two extra large T-Shirts. Thanks, Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 14:13:31 -0400 From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Peter to your reply [My two penny worth, any graphics for a t-shirt would look good on a sticker on the rear window of my beast and would also make identification of other like minded types easier if their t-shirt is in the wash! (could be extended to spare wheel covers if you like) LRO Bookshop for distribution would be ok if they sold them this side of the pond too. Peter J. Gronous Surrey, England] I've got a vinyl cutter for making signs and such. I could easily manufacture a coupla lro decals for windows, bumpers, & spare tire covers (although I doubt it'd hold to my interior carpeting) However, finding a screen printer to make up some bumper stickers would be a much easier job than cutting up a gazillion LRO ID tags. Ernie ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:49 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Disgusting Attachments What is it with you guys? I go on vacation for three days and somebody tries to move into my territory, i. e. Absolutely Disgusting Attachments to Land Rovers? I won't have it! Talked to my friend immediately, and we developed a few additional ideas; however, since the full moon is long past, telling you would be flogging a dead horse. However, here's some news: He called BMW a few weeks ago to see whether they were interested in co-operation in the field of Attachments to Land Rovers, and they listened and then called him back to state that they could not pursue the idea of co-operation since our ideas were not politically correct. This apparently came directly from the horse's mouth. Well, we'll have to wait until the Republicans get a majority in Germany, and then we'll all be in clover! Until then Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:40 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: SII clutch trouble Brian - >I have a SII 88 which has a shuddering clutch. I am not sure what the >cause is. There does not seem to be an excessive amount of oil in the >belhousing,only two small puddles at the bottom, but then I'm not sure how much or how little there is >allowed to be. The pressure plate has a small amount of >contamination on the inner radius, but the flywheel does not have any [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >release bearing? >If you have any advice please mail me direct. You already got some good advice about how to tell the difference between gear oil and motor oil; also about parking downhill. However, from your description my first guess would be that one of your engine mounts is shot. Check them before you do anything drastic. One method I have heard of is to open the hood/bonnet (it is bonnet in SA, isn't it?), stand on the bumper and have a friend who knows what he/she is doing and who does not hold any grudge against you let in the clutch slowly. Needless to say there should not be any obstacle in front of the car. If the engine bounces around like mad, it would be an engine mount. Good luck, check on your life insurance and remember - worth what you paid for it! Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:42:51 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: S I Restoration Dear all, today the weather was pretty bad and I decided to get on with my work on my 1958 S I LWB Station Wagon. The basic idea is to take it apart as much as possible without doing anything too drastic, doing the necessary repairs, giving it a new coat of paint and a few other cosmetics and having it on the road again in April or May 1997. Started taking down the roof, and removing the trim. Much to my surprise, most of the dozens of screws and bolts were in pretty good shape and yielded without major problems. Only the trim of the left-hand front window had decayed badly, nothing would move and I ended up removing two captive bolts with an angle grinder. Needless to say I did not get half as far as planned, the roof is still up there and the trim on the left hand rear window will not yield, not due to rust but because the nut would be about 8,5 mm across, and requires a very slim and long socket. I managed to get one of the nuts out with a 9 mm socket, but rounded the other one. Will make a small insert into the socket until the next time. Must have been a lot of fun installing the trim in the first place. Another nice piece of LR engineering: The tropical roof is held in place firstly by 14 2-inch bolts with distance pieces around the edges; then by stiffeners riveted to the tropical roof and bolted to the roof front and rear; and lastly by the roof stiffeners that the tropical roof is riveted to. I have not dealt with these rivets yet, and I am not sure I will drill all seventy-five of them out; but - what would you use to bolt the tropical roof stiffeners to the roof? In case you don't remember what the tropical roof looks like, it is a second skin about an inch from the roof, with the front edge coming down about 1/4 inch; the bolts sit about an inch behind this edge, fastening the L-shaped ribs that go the length of the tropical roof to the roof itself. Now we have a problem of accessability, don't we? Basically there is access from the front (or the rear for the rear bolts) only, and the bolts sit pretty close to the rib, so you would think of a hex head and then you could just about stick the right size spanner in and hold fast to the head that way and work on the nut on the ceiling of the cab with another spanner or a socket or whatever. But you and I did not work for L-R in the fifties. Whoever designed this either was concerned about the drag on a hex bolt head, or the noise created by the air flow on that obstruction, or they had a surplus of mushroom bolts that they could not get rid of in any other way - anyway, there is the flattest mushroom bolt head there, it touches the rib so you have no chance to grab it with pliers (which I would hate to do anyway), and the only tool that will cope with it is an s-shaped screwdriver with a rather long blade and not more than about 1/2 inch before the first angle. Not even LR special tool 1 or 2 would help here. So - another trip to the toolshop on Monday! And here's a SPOT: The trim on the rear doors is held in place by a delicate profile of aluminium, screwed to the doorframe with five screws, except in my case one of them was a nail which had gone through the galvanized doorframe and the door panel, then was ground away and painted over. I drilled it out. Now I have to find a way of repairing the hole in the doorframe, and the hole in the panel, and putting the profile back on the door after everything has been painted... BTW, I stole a lot of small freezer bags from my wife and use them for keeping the screws, bolts, washers, nuts and other small odds and ends in them. They have a panel that you can write on with a normal ballpoint pen, and wire twists to close them. I also have larger zip-lock bags and use them to keep all the smaller bags together; e.g. my ziplock bag "Roof and Rear Upper Body" so far holds freezer bags for "Headliner Rear", "Headliner Center", "Headliner Front", "Ventilators", "Tropical Roof" and so on. I also label all the larger parts I remove. My short-term memory is not what it used to be... Any suggestions? Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 16:31:16 -0400 Subject: Re: What the Hell is wrong with y'all?! Well, it sure is good to see that the second person plural contraction has at least made some inroads into other versions of the mother language. See y'all!!! Cheers! John Dillingham Woodstock, Georgia (the one in Dixie, not the former USSR one) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 14:57:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Justin Chala <rchala@gladstone.uoregon.edu> Subject: Disc Brakes? Hi all, I was wondering if it is possible to convert to disc brakes without changing over to RR or Defender axles. I have a ser. III 88" with a Salisbury rear end. Thanks for any info. Richard Chala rchala@gladstone.uoregon.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 01:40:09 +0400 From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il> Subject: Re: S I Restoration At 09:42 PM 8/4/96 +0200, you wrote: >Dear all, today the weather was pretty bad and I decided to get on with my >work on my 1958 S I LWB Station Wagon. The basic idea is to take it apart as [ truncated by lro-digester (was 71 lines)] >SI 107in S/W >Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) >hi peter I'm doing the same thing to my rover that turned to be an s1 80" '50 or '51. I still have to get another engine,a left door and a rear door. yesterday i took off the roof quite violently which was a lot of fun since it wasn't original and was made of chicken cages parts(!).I will probebly take it apart completley since it didn't move for at least 25 years (I found the registration sticker on the windshield dated 1970). good luck ofir ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 1996 01:40:13 +0400 From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il> Subject: Re: Series restoration manuals At 04:23 PM 8/3/96 EDT, you wrote: >I've lost the message now but whoever was looking for books to aid in >restoration of Series Landrovers, essential is to get the parts book and perhaps >the official workshop manual. Putting them back together is greatly helped by >looking at the pretty pictures showing the assembly order of various parts which >are not so obvious. Someone else has already suggested them but another >worthwhile book is put out by Haynes (No.F681) "Guide to purchase & DIY [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >Surrey, England >hi peter i was look for help aboat my 1951 s1 80" thank you for your help still have a lot of work since it wasn't on the road for at least 25 years. bye for now Ofir Nahari Israel ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 15:47:38 -0700 (PDT) From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates) Subject: Sightings and Speedo woes (gloat) 1) in the Sony commercial for their new tiny videocam. A couple is bombing around what looks like New Zeland? in an experienced white SI 80" 2) watched a bit of a McGuyver 2 weeks ago (someone else had control of the remote) He is in Bosnia with John Rhys Davies and escapes in a series LR with no engine..they strap on a couple of what looked like air to air missiles sans warhead and fizzled off at 20mph. I guess the producers did not know about the guy in Nevada a couple of years ago who strapped two JATO units to his car. The cops figure he was going about 200+mph before he became airborne and pasted into a cliff. Thanks all for the help on the speedo problems. 1/2 hour to pop off the driveshaft and retorque the cast. nut (it was almost finger tight!) and the speedo works fine. So what other important nuts should be looked at? Clever of LR to use the speedo as a loose drive nut indicator eh? CDC -- __x___x_ / Clinton D. Coates uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca |__|__|__\/__ | | |_ | *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs (_)"""""(_)" *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover* ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 18:56:15 -0400 Subject: Wheel bearings >>Remove the stub axle, put it in a vise with the stub part facing up, use a cold chisel, and carefully split the old race, striking blows parallel to the axle line. Did I miss something? Changing wheel bearings on my 3s and 2s, I've only used a chisel for getting the outer race out of the inside of the hub. Never had one stick to the stub axle. >>don't tighten the hub nuts excessively I tighten em just a little past snug (unless using a torque wrench) then back off, then sloooowwwwlly snug it up til the thrust washer just does slide around between the bearing race and the nuts, when twisting a screwdriver on the thrust's edge to get it to slide. I got this method from John Muir in his "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" Book. John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 73 s3 SWB 72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over 66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer 73 VW Sedan- Daisy Vintage Rover Service "Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!" ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 17:30:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Land Rover duds Re: Pith Helmets... I have an olive green one that I picked up somewhere along the line, probably at an estate sale or flea market. It was US Marine issue in 1945 (so stamped inside). It has a leather adjuster/sweat band with actual laces, none of this sissy velcro or elastic. The biggest difference between this and the brit version (other than the color) is that mine is almost round, to the eliptical that there's is. I might be tempted to part with it. Maybe trade it for an o.d. or soft top & hoops... (just kidding). Lets see, I also have two fedoras (one just like Indy's), a french forign legion cap (non authentic) and my current favorite is a jungle rain floppy hat that I found at the local fleet farm for $7. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:09:46 -0400 Subject: Re:Loose nuts Clinton writes: So what other important nuts should be looked at? Clever of LR to use the speedo as a loose drive nut indicator eh? In my case, the one holding the wheel!! :-) Cheers!!! John Dillingham ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 19:14:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing Ronald, your manifold vacuum is highest when idling or closing the throttle on decelleration. If your crank seal is way up there on the rockwell scale, your valve stem seals probably are, too. Doesn't the s1 (and the 2.6 and 3litre F heads, for that matter) use the o-ring seals that fit in a recess inside the valve guide? Renew those, or convert to the umbrella type while the head is off. And do try to replace that crank seal, too, before it cuts a groove in the crankshaft, if it hasn't already. Ditto, the crank pulley seal. A talented and creative machinist should be able to do the valve guides and seals with readily available bits. Cheers!! John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 73 s3 SWB 72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over 66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer Vintage Rover Service "Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!" ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:33:28 -0400 (EDT) From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy) Subject: Hard Top questions Boy am I excited!! I finally got the wiring set on the rear lights this weekend and then bolted the rear body to the frame. In my euphoria(and for weather protection!), I convinced my wife to help me lift the hard top onto the vehicle to "see how it looks." Well, all the holes line up where they're supposed to, but there's one problem....there is a gap between the body and the top joint that increases as you move forward from the very back, to the front of the rear body. Gap is probably about 1/4 inch. I replaced the rear cross-member(with extensions) and wonder whether the rear is sitting up a little too much. The windshield bolts are snugged down fully. The seals on the bottom of the top are really quite shrivelled, but it looks like this gap may be a little extreme! Any suggestions/other experiences would be greatly appreciated! Cheers! John John Cassidy Bangor, Maine USA 2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 21:50:51 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: T-shirts >Sorta like the Rovers north adv. regarding how the guy working on his >Rover.... I don't recall the signature on the illustration, but... That'd be Sand Toler. Just got his design for this year's Mid-Atlantic Rally shirt in today's post. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 23:02:36 -0400 Subject: Re: S I Restoration - It never ends Peter plans to do a little bit of work on his SI >The basic idea is to take it apart as >much as possible without doing anything too drastic, doing the necessary >repairs, giving it a new coat of paint and a few other cosmetics and having >it on the road again in April or May 1997. This is one of the major deceptions of LR ownership (or any old vehicle). You plan to do a few minor repairs, and without fully understanding how it happened, it is half diassassembled. You keep finding additional items that need repair, or are not quite right, or are just potential future trouble, and decide that since things are alread apart there won't be a better time to deal with them. So you take some more apart, discocover yet more to do, and the cycle is repeated. Years later the LR is finally boack on the road, or gathering dust. The opposite phenomenem is possible. Your ignore the other problems, just do what you planned, and several days later it is take everything back off to fix it. At least the bolts are free. I started to replace the brakes and clutch hydraulics on our SII PU, and now everything ahead of the bulkhead other than the axle and springs has been removed, and the cylinder head is off the engine. But I'm making progress. David Cockey Rochester, Michigan ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 20:14:51 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Pull-Pal is INEXPENSIVE compared to new Nautical Anchors Since posing the question about nautical anchors as ground anchors, I've found the following in the West Marine 1996 Catalogue: West Marine Performance Anchor (looks like well-built Danforth): WT. BOAT SIZE WORKING LOAD PRICE 25 lbs 30-44 1800 lbs $ 165. 40 38-50 3000 249. 70 45-70 5000 525. CQR Plow Anchors: wts. range from 25-75 lbs, prices range from $400-$900!! By comparison, Pull-Pal is less expensive and lighter by far. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 23:12:01 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: solid state ignition A few weeks ago I asked if anyone had information on a solid state ignition system I have here. It turns ofut to be an Allison Breakerless Ignition System Model 17. If anyone has the instructions on how to install it I would appreciate a copy. You can E-Mail me direct. Thanks Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 1996 22:24:16 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: LRs in Ads today (Sunday) Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960805 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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