[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Martin Lusk [luskm@weka. | 28 | IIa help please |
2 | Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m | 25 | strange plug in fusebox |
3 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 39 | Re: IIa help please |
4 | LRO Book Shop & The LRO | 28 | T-shirts |
5 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 26 | Re: T shirts |
6 | Andy Woodward [azw@aber. | 29 | RE: Rusting D90 |
7 | wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d | 26 | Series II brakes / snail cams / T shirts |
8 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 33 | Re: T-shirts |
9 | MHKINGER@aol.com | 10 | Re: LR Restoration Manual |
10 | Don Scott [101364.3474@C | 15 | RE:T-Shirts |
11 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 19 | Re: Series II brakes / snail cams |
12 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 13 | Re[2]: T-Shirts |
13 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 28 | A pile of Rovers?? |
14 | Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo1 | 22 | Swivel balls |
15 | ericz@cloud9.net | 25 | Re: IIa help please |
16 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 12 | Re: T-shirts |
17 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 30 | Re: Swivel balls |
18 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 28 | Re: Swivel balls |
19 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 9 | Nerd Identifier |
20 | Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo1 | 24 | Re: Swivel balls |
21 | Deezilbob@aol.com | 13 | Ser.1 air cleaner / volt. reg.# |
22 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 14 | Re: Ser.1 air cleaner / volt. reg.# |
23 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 10 | Re: IIa help please |
24 | Paul Daintree [paul@wda. | 17 | Re: T-Shirts |
25 | cascardo@ix.netcom.com ( | 17 | Re: Rusting D90 |
26 | parch@smmff.com (Paul Ar | 19 | Re: LRO T-Shirt |
27 | "S. Vels" [svels@mail-se | 28 | Re: Series II brakes / snail cams / T shirts |
28 | hilltop [hilltop@advanta | 24 | Re: Cool it!! |
29 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 78 | Re[2]: Swivel balls |
30 | parch@smmff.com (Paul Ar | 21 | Re: LRO T-Shirt |
31 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 17 | Re: A pile of Rovers?? |
32 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 23 | Re[2]: Cool it!! |
33 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 26 | Re: Nerd Identifier |
34 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 17 | Ford V6 Conversion |
35 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 14 | Re: Nerd Identifier |
36 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 34 | Re: A pile of Rovers?? |
37 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 2 | [not specified] |
38 | gpool@pacific.net (Granv | 38 | Re: Ford V6 Conversion |
39 | ASFCO@aol.com | 14 | Re: A pile of Rovers?? |
40 | ASFCO@aol.com | 12 | Re: T-shirts |
41 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 43 | Re: A pile of Rovers?? |
42 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 20 | Land Rover duds |
43 | "Jeffrey A. Berg" [jeff@ | 26 | Re: Land Rover duds |
44 | "Jeffrey A. Berg" [jeff@ | 23 | Re: Land Rover duds |
45 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 39 | Re: Ford V6 Conversion |
46 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 36 | LA British Car Meet |
47 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 47 | New event! Here we go again |
48 | eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit | 21 | T Shirts |
49 | Allan Smith [smitha@cand | 18 | Re: generic rusting |
50 | hilltop [hilltop@advanta | 28 | Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing |
51 | "Franklin H. Yap" [FHYap | 14 | Re: Dielectric Grease |
52 | "Franklin H. Yap" [FHYap | 11 | Re: IIa help please (Dielectric Grease) |
53 | rhodesia@juno.com (Chris | 14 | [not specified] |
54 | rhodesia@juno.com (Chris | 10 | [not specified] |
55 | rhodesia@juno.com (Chris | 18 | [not specified] |
56 | "Franklin H. Yap" [FHYap | 11 | Re: IIa help please (Dielectric Grease) |
57 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 58 | Re: Swivel balls |
58 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 17 | Re: LA British Car Meet |
59 | Mark Perry [rxq281@freen | 16 | TV sighting |
60 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 12 | Re: Pull-Pal: Would a Danforth Anchor Work? |
61 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 17 | T-shirts?! |
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 22:35:57 +1200 From: Martin Lusk <luskm@weka.lincoln.ac.nz> Subject: IIa help please Although don't have my own Land Rover yet, I would appreciate if someone could answer a few questions I have on the short wheel base 1)Will a 3.5 litre Rover V8 fit in the series IIa 88' 2)What is the best method of speeding up the gearing of the series IIa ie RR diffs, Salsbury diffs 3)Is adding air shocks the only way of raising the chasis. 4) What can you do in water without a snorkel (raised air intake) ie how deep etc Any help would be much appreciated. Martin. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Martin Lusk BCom(Ag) Lincoln University New Zealand (the rest is classified) ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de Subject: strange plug in fusebox Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 10:04:39 +0200 (METDST) Hello Rovers, I had a close look inside the fusebox of my military 110 this week and found a disconnected plug in there. The plug is black, round, aprox 2cm diam. and has 2 relatively thin red wires, despite it looks like it could take 3 wires by design. The female part has power according to the front/rear parking lights (one wire rear, one front). The male part has no connection to ground (neither high or low Ohm). Putting together had no effect. Has anyone a suggestion what it might be? My (civi) manual is silant about it. Curious, Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml exmil. 1989 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 12:36:34 +0000 Subject: Re: IIa help please Quoting Martin Lusk, from 2 Aug 96 > 1)Will a 3.5 litre Rover V8 fit in the series IIa 88' Yes, with some work. > 2)What is the best method of speeding up the gearing of the series > IIa ie RR diffs, Salsbury diffs RR Diffs. or (better) an overdrive: gives you .78:1 increase in rolling speed, without screwing the speedo. You could also replace the 15" wheels with 16" and the 205 tyres with 750's. Changing anything after the prop-shaft will squew the speedo readings.. > 3)Is adding air shocks the only way of raising the chasis. no. using 750 tyrs on 16" wheels will also raise the chassis.. > 4) What can you do in water without a snorkel (raised air intake) ie > how deep etc If you drive carefully (ie constant speed & just fast enough) you can wade to about two or three feet. The trick is to make a steady bow wave and not let it break through into the engine bay. You will find that a snorkle is not the only thing you need if you want to do *deep* wading - water in the engine-bay will scupper the ignition on a petrol engine. V8's are more suseptable to water that straight-4s. For deep wading, go for a diesel. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness" ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 08:52:14 -0400 From: LRO Book Shop & The LRO Shop <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: T-shirts At the risk of dragging this whole saga out we have a suggestion to make. We are a commercial concern but very much a part of the Land Rover movement both here and in the UK. LROI and LRO Shop supports various club activities. We don't much care who produces the shirt or the design but we are in danger of talking this thing to death and losing out on a very good idea. We see lots of messages from individuals with orders of two shirts, three shirts etc. Who is keeping tabs on this. We would like to offer our services as the gatherer of information. If those interested in obtaining the digest t-shirt would send us an email at lroshop@idirect.com with details of your requirements, i.e. name, size, quantity we will collate that information and pass it on to whoever gets the deal done. Unless anyone objects to a commercial operation getting involved, advertising itsself etc. etc. Great idea guys, lets keep it moving but with a little methodology applied (did I spell that right?) Have a great weekend and for those in Canada, enjoy the long weekend. Safe driving everyone. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 08:17:23 -5 Subject: Re: T shirts > missed the lead post about this subject but there is a d90 sw > owner who has a tshirt printing co in mass called Planet > Sportwear tel 617 576 3333 have seen the work and its great > quality > chris Well, there you go then. I'm sure there's bound to be good artist/rover owner who we could persuade to donate a design, and if we can get the d90 owner to donate some time and his facility, we can get some t-shirts. I'd rather see us actually get it done by volunteer efforts (assuming it really gets done) than go the comercial route. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 14:11:33 +0000 Subject: RE: Rusting D90 >As far as rusty hardware, I do a monthly walkaround on my 90 (and the >= other Rovers too!) with a can of good old WD40. Give all of the >steel = hardware a spritz of the stuff. Door handle plates, seatbelt >brackets, = body mounting bolts, hinges, engine compartment hardward, >etc. You'll be = surprised at how well this all works. I'd be surprised if it worked if you didnt keep toppin it up every month......WD40 is great for dryin out wet contacts, but is hopeless fro rust prevention. The magic word is (YaaaAAAWWWN!) WAXOYL. No significant rust on my chassis after 12 years of neglect and salt.....I just wash it with a stirrup pump and respray any rust patches once a year >Same reason that after 25 years of ownership of my 2A 88 the only >frame = piece needing replacement was the rear crossmember. Rest good [ truncated by lro-digester (was 55 lines)] >------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8003.6CBFFFC0 >------------------------------ ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 15:26:34 +0200 From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Subject: Series II brakes / snail cams / T shirts Hi all Sent this yesterday, didn't see it in the digest, maybe it'll get duplicated, anyway again: The snail cams on my brake backing plates (Series II front) are pretty worn. It looks like they can be ground off and new ones welded on, but the parts manual I have gives the complete backing plate as a replacement part. Does anyone know of a source for just the cams, or the cam + bolt combo? ObNewInfo (in addition to yesterdays missing post) The Vanagon List made up a T shirt. Nice. Shows the 4 types of VW vans, splitty, loaf, vanagon, eurovan. Front views in different colors. There should be a picture on the web somewhere. Good quality etc, but pretty expensive, I think US$20 incl shipping to ZA. BTW I've got two :-) Thanks Wouter ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 08:26:48 -5 Subject: Re: T-shirts Sandy asks: > And how could we get a concensus on > design? "Series I!" "No, no, IIa!" "Lightweight, of course!" "Forward > control!" Cheers - The BMW logo? JUST KIDDING! Maybe the name "Land Rover" (who makes all the vehicles) and an illustration of one so caked in mud you can't tell whether it's a series one or a range rover classic. Actually, I'd vote for a pretty generic design that all the lists would be proud to wear. Whoever does the design could have it posted on the various LR web sites for preview (assuming of course the websters agree). Or maybe three or four designs could be done and a vote taken. If people wanted to go that route, I could set up a quick database in Notes that I can publish to my website to collect votes. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MHKINGER@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 09:38:07 -0400 Subject: Re: LR Restoration Manual If you have the Land Rover Parts Cataloge for your Series and the associated service manual there aint nothing you can't tackle. I'm living proof of that. Have fun. Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 02 Aug 96 09:33:28 EDT From: Don Scott <101364.3474@CompuServe.COM> Subject: RE:T-Shirts Sounds like SA is best place for printing any consensus on the design yet Put me down for 2 anyway What color is favorite ( I vote black so as not to show the oil stains ) Don Scott LR/RR/Disco/Jaguar Hybrid ( 5.3l efi V12 Land Rover) ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 10:10:12 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Series II brakes / snail cams The snail cams on my brake backing plates (Series II front) are pretty worn. ..snip... Does anyone know of a source for just the cams, or the cam + bolt combo? I got a set of four adjusters from British pacific in the US. The set was 23 dollars US which was a darn fine deal, and installation was easy (grind off old adjuster and bolt on new one with special locking boolt, supplied) The kit was made in UK as ageneric aftermarket kit that fits alot of British Cars. they tell you which combination of parts to use for each car. I forget who made the kit, but I'm sure you cna find it or something similar for very little. I can find out from BP wh makes em, as I've tossed the packaging... Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 10:13:36 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: T-Shirts >>>>What color is favorite ( I vote black so as not to show the oil stains ) How about poppy red? Seriously though, methinks something close to Bronze green, with yellow or white ink... Dave "Black ain't a Land-Rover colo(u)r" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 10:25:00 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: A pile of Rovers?? Dear All, especially those out west, I was just reading my new Hemming Motor News, and found an ad for a ton of rare stuff. I bring this up as some of you have asked for 101 and Lightweight parts. The ad reads... LR business for sale, 35 vehicles including 101 ambulances, lightweights, etc. over 100 tons new, used parts, 275,000 for all. AMEI PoBox 111 O'Brien, OR, USA, 97534 or call 541-596-2177. Don't know anything about it, but sounds like someone with a lot of rare on not so legal parts, may be a good chance to find some Rovers or parts. Maybe they'll sell parts or single Rovers, who knows, buyer beware. Anyone have any info on this company in O'Brien OR?? See ya! From: Mike Smith East Coast Rover Co. 207.594.8086 21 Tolman Road *Rt. 90* 207.594.8120 fax Warren, Maine 04864 ecrover@midcoast.com Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More Series Coil Chassis Specialists ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 10:07:15 -0400 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net> Subject: Swivel balls Hi all, I've been noticing a significant increase in the flow of 140W from both right and left swivel balls. The rate's high enough to require topping off every two weeks or so. I figure I'm due for swivel ball overhaul. Questions: 1. How tough is this job? 2. I plan to replace the balls at the same time I do the seals since they're showing significant pitting. Should I do any other items as long as I'm in there? Thanks -- Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD 21020 dunsmo19@us.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 10:41:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: IIa help please >You will find that a snorkle is not the only thing you need if you want to >do *deep* wading - water in the engine-bay will scupper the ignition on a >petrol engine. V8's are more suseptable to water that straight-4s. I've actually found the opposite....unless I'm missing something. With the distributor higher up on the V8, I've found that I could wade where 4 cylinder vehicles were stalling out....anyone else have such experience? BTW, besides Ford, anyone know a good brand of dialectric grease available in the states (natural aversion to going to the dealer) Rgds, Eric _______________________________________________________________________ OVERLAND MOTORS...."EXPEDITION SPECIALISTS" 1075 Washington St. Land Rover - Range Rover - Discovery - Defender Peekskill, NY 10566 USA http://www.OverlandMotors.com Fax: (914) 734-4352 Phone: (914) 734-4333 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 11:02:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: T-shirts On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Tom Rowe wrote: > would be proud to wear. Whoever does the design could have it posted > on the various LR web sites for preview (assuming of course the > websters agree). No problem... ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 11:09:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Swivel balls On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Nathan Dunsmore wrote: > 1. How tough is this job? Not too bad... :-) > 2. I plan to replace the balls at the same time I do the seals since they're > showing significant pitting. Should I do any other items as long as I'm in > there? Rest of the parts are pretty cheap... 576583 swivel pin 531001 locker 528702 washer 539742 housing with bush 530984 shim 530985 shim 530986 shim 530987 shim RTC3528 oil seal 232413 joint washer 277289 gasket 231505 gasket RTC3515 oil seal ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 11:26:56 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Swivel balls >>. I figure I'm due for swivel ball overhaul. >>>Questions: >>>1. How tough is this job? If you can do a frameover... This was th first major thing I did on my Land Rover. Last I knew it was holding up well. The hardest part is getting undoing the damn bolts that hold the swivel balls to the axle casing. >>>2. I plan to replace the balls at the same time I do the seals since they're >>showing significant pitting. Should I do any other items as long as I'm in >>>there? Check the axle UJ's, replace axle case seals, wheel bearings, hub seals/races tie rod ends, brake shoes/adjusters, wheel studs, anything that you will be getting into which is basically anything past the end of the exle casing. Also halfshaft end bearing if necessary. Mine were ok. I have new ones if you need em. I'll send you the whole thing I wrote about doing swivel balls if I can find it. Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 96 11:20:51 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Nerd Identifier How about "Computer Geeks and Rover Freaks" for the T-shirt motto. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 11:28:40 -0400 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net> Subject: Re: Swivel balls Bobeck, David R. wrote: > The hardest part is getting undoing the damn bolts that hold the swivel > balls to the axle casing. Are they accessible with a grinder or nut splitter? > Check the axle UJ's, replace axle case seals, wheel bearings, hub seals/races > tie rod ends, brake shoes/adjusters, wheel studs, anything that you will be [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > em. I'll send you the whole thing I wrote about doing swivel balls if I can find > it. Thanks -- Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD 21020 dunsmo19@us.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Deezilbob@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 12:00:28 -0400 Subject: Ser.1 air cleaner / volt. reg.# If T. Wakeman needs a Ser. 1 air cleaner, I have one w/o the bottom oil reservoir that I could part with. Olafur Agust needs the Lucas # for a voltage reg. The RB106 is 37290F(typical 4cyl. pet), the RB340 is 37387E or 37517D(typical 6cyl.pet). Some diesels used the same as 6cyl. pet. but some used another which I do not have in front of me but I can get. These #'s are out of a Lucas service parts catalog. As far as the T-shirts, I'll take 2 lg. when/whatever.........D.B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 12:26:13 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Ser.1 air cleaner / volt. reg.# >>>If T. Wakeman needs a Ser. 1 air cleaner, I have one w/o the bottom oil reservoir that I could part with. I have an extra bottom piece that I could part with. Its SIII so I don't know if they're the same diameter, and it needs a small blob of welding on the bottom to repair a pinhole leak. DaveB. Arlington VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 11:56:43 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: Re: IIa help please I agree that the 4 cyl. seems to get wet sooner than the V8. I have used surgical gloves over the dist. body and a condom on the coil of the 4 cyl. and it helps, but water in the spark plug hole seems to kill the vehicle pretty fast as well. On my Ser I vehicle, I seem to recall that there was an "0" ring. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 18:14:54 +0100 From: Paul Daintree <paul@wda.u-net.com> Subject: Re: T-Shirts My vote goes to Brian Cotton's design. Only cos I am a skinflint and approx 3 pounds sterling sounds better than 7 pounds sterling. When they are ready I will have two, both XL please. Ta very much. as to design, why not Land-rover.team.net over the logo or a series vehicle, easy to put together, instantley recognizable. As an aside I got Microsoft Exchange configured for E-mail, its better than netscape as it will spell check before you send, hopefully I will soon have it set to automatically dial up and disconnect as well - (flash begger :-) ) Andrew Daintree - 1984 109" series III ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 10:57:37 -0700 From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo) Subject: Re: Rusting D90 You wrote: >Depends on your personality but I would tell them to replace it and make sure it's >filled with grease. At this point, I think you're looking at eventual rust out Speaking of grease what type would you suggest. I tried white lithium on the door hinges but because they are external the lithium began to clump. Lucas C. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 11:36:10 -0700 From: parch@smmff.com (Paul Archibald) Subject: Re: LRO T-Shirt Since we are a computer-linked group, how about a drawing/characture of someone working on his/her land-rover while using a computer/modem with one hand.Sorta like the Rovers north adv. regarding how the guy had saved so much money by not dating due to the time spent working on his Rover, that he was able to buy a Range-Rover. I don't recall the signature on the illustration, but... It seams that we are always stopping in the middle of working on the beasts to ask for advice. Just a thought. It would be more interesting than a simple logo with a few words! Paul Archibald Parch@smmff.com (510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336 '58 88" RHD 2-litre "87 Range-Rover-156,000 miles-going strong (Squeak) ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 20:40:40 +0001 Subject: Re: Series II brakes / snail cams / T shirts > The snail cams on my brake backing plates (Series II front) are pretty worn. > It looks like they can be ground off and new ones welded on, but the parts > manual I have gives the complete backing plate as a replacement part. I don't know if sIII cams would fit in the holes. Mine are bolted on. I took them off for a touch-up with a set of key files. > Does anyone know of a source for just the cams, or the cam + bolt combo? If your regular sources can't provide anything satisfactory, try Williams Land-Rover Reservedele I/S. Fax no. (+45) 86 66 79 77 (grp3). William is famous for finding and shipping even the tiniest bolt or what ever you need. Be shure to give him all the details. May seem strange to order him from ZA, but if it gets you there.. rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 14:45:37 -0500 From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> Subject: Re: Cool it!! Bobeck, David R. wrote: > Hey all. > I brought two radiators over to a local shop to see if they could rod them out > Does anybody know anything about this "VT" core or have any experience with > other types of cores?. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > Thank You All > Dave "I like cool engines" B. Dave, My rover is older than those rads ('58) but it had what is called a "low flow" radiator. Looks more like a honey comb pattern. Basically it's the same thing as a heater core in most cars, only bigger. In fact that's what he used to re-core it. Some of the older Cadilacs and lots of other 20's and 30's cars used them. Try a rad shop with a little more historical experience. According to my rad man using a conventional core would have caused over-heating. Ronald ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 14:56:01 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Swivel balls the damn bolts that hold the swivel > balls to the axle casing. >>>Are they accessible with a grinder or nut splitter? Grinder yes, nut splitter no, chisel yes, box-end wrench no, torch yes, socket no, out-and-out-rage-and-supernatural-wrath-curse-of-the-gods no. Here's the deal. I can't find the message I was thinkng I had so here goes..... First off, either get everything you need from RN (big bucks) or buy a kit. I got mine from Atlantic British and I was pretty happy with it. There's lots o' little parts that you don't know you need so talk to one of the experts wherever you buy it. The AB kit comes w/everythin you need. including gaiters. Try British pacific, they probably have a good deal. The first step is to strip the axle. This means tire then brake drum then brake shoes then freewheel hub then regular hub then stub shaft then backing plate.There are locking tab plates for all these, that will need to be replaced. Suspend the backing plate with baling wire so that the flex hose is not strained. Another way to get to this point is to undo a few less parts. You could: remove the tire and brake drum to take some weight off. disconnect the flex hose from the wheel cylinder remove the swivel pin housing seal retainer and the seal. the sela will just hang on around the swivel ball for now. remove the four studs on the bottom of the swivel pin HOUSING drop the steering arm bottom pin that was held by the four studs. remove the four bolts holding the top pin remove the top pin carefully pull the housing away from the swivel ball, being mindful of the halfshaft You are now left with just the swivel ball on the end of the axle, alittle less taking apart there. The other way is to just unbolt the swivel ball from the axle and pull the whole shebang out, axle shaft and all, and bring it inside to your workbench. Might make reassembly much more pleasant. Also a good trick if you are just changing the seal. There's probably a few gaskets in there you'll end up making out of newspaper. That's what was on mine, and they were working nicely When you are reassembling, I do believe you've got to have the new top busing pressed in and the same with the bottom bearing race. I did this at the local garage for abuot forty bucks, im sure you could do better than that. Put it all back together with the seal hanging loose, and test the preload on the top pin by pulling with a fish scale. Its supposed to be between10 and 18 lbs after overcoming the inertia. Mine was around 18-20, with all the shims. It steered fine and wasn't bindin so i went with it. Bolt it all back up and slap the gaiters on ther so you won't have to do it again. Just clean uot the gaiters every so often by driving trough the water :-) Put the gaiter seam facing down so they can drain, not facing back as in the directions. If you do that they will trap all sorts of mud and grit that will kill your balls. Have fun, and don't forget to fill it all back up with 90wt when youre done... Dave "I've got new balls" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 12:11:31 -0700 From: parch@smmff.com (Paul Archibald) Subject: Re: LRO T-Shirt Major barfed this back so here it is again Since we are a computer-linked group, how about a drawing/characture of someone working on his/her land-rover while using a computer/modem with one hand.Sorta like the Rovers north adv. regarding how the guy had saved so much money by not dating due to the time spent working on his Rover, that he was able to buy a Range-Rover. I don't recall the signature on the illustration, but... It seams that we are always stopping in the middle of working on the beasts to ask for advice. Just a thought. It would be more interesting than a simple logo with a few words! Paul Paul Archibald Parch@smmff.com (510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336 '58 88" RHD 2-litre "87 Range-Rover-156,000 miles-going strong (Squeak) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 15:10:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Mike Smith wrote: > LR business for sale, 35 vehicles including 101 ambulances, > lightweights, etc. over 100 tons new, used parts, 275,000 for all. AMEI > PoBox 111 O'Brien, OR, USA, 97534 or call 541-596-2177. >. This sounds quiet fascinating. Accumulating 35 Land Rovers isn't that difficult, but 101 ambulances etc is quite impressive. The cost of bringing all of this into the USA. 100 tons of parts!? This would make an interesting series of photos. Anyone in this part of Oregon who can take a stop by and check this out? Sounds a bit fantastic. ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 15:26:14 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Cool it!! Bobeck, David R. wrote: > Hey all. > I brought two radiators over to a local shop to see if they could rod them out [ truncated by lro-lite (was 13 lines)] > Thank You All > Dave "I like cool engines" B. >>>>> Try a rad shop with a little more historical experience. According to my rad man using a conventional core would have caused over-heating. Ronald This guy was recommended to me by the local shop that works on and restores british sports cars. He knows what to put in there, pretty much a basic radiator, just a more efficient type of core than a standard car radiator Thanks... Dave "still waiting to hear back from him though" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 15:33:19 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Nerd Identifier Bill trie shis hand at the t-shirt idea... How about "Computer Geeks and Rover Freaks" .... "oil leaks?"... "small mammals squeak" flame of the week gear oil reeks... potatoes and leeks smelly sneaks (in your ARB locker) Oh boy am I bored... Dave B. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 96 15:39:40 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Ford V6 Conversion A firend of mine is wondering whther he ought to buy this Rover, it's a SIII 88' with a 2.8ford V6. He wants it mostly for the OD. Anybody know anything about the Ford V6 conversion? Apparently this car would come with a pattern to make more adapters for the future if necessry. Price is 1500 canadian, he's hoping to get it for the OD and then maybe fix it up and sell it for abou tthe same price. try to break even and get an OD out of it... I told 'im a few things I thought of to watch out for on the conversion and that I'd try to get an opinion off the list... Well? Dave "Mr Curious" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 15:44:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Nerd Identifier On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote: > "oil leaks?"... > "small mammals squeak" Should add a black blob under the two Land ROvers in the Soren design with a small furry creature looing on in the corner... You are bored... ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 12:44:33 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Dixon Kenner wrote: > On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Mike Smith wrote: > > LR business for sale, 35 vehicles including 101 ambulances, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > This would make an interesting series of photos. Anyone in this > part of Oregon who can take a stop by and check this out? Sounds > a bit fantastic. I had a little trouble finding O'Brien, OR, but it turns out to be in SW Oregon south of Grants Pass on Hwy 199 just north of the California State Line. This puts it on a possible route for those Californians going to the Portland ABFM Labor Day Weekend (Labor Day looks to be September 2 this year). It's interesting that this business site has not become one of common knowledge among the Land Rover cognoscente, at least south of the border. Is this another one of those well kept secrets that everybody in Oregon knows? In any case, maybe a side trip would be in order for the end of the month. Rgds, Walt * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Walter C. Swain | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us * * Davis Community Network | 1969 Dormobile- "Bertha" * * Davis, California | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 13:55:28 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Re: Ford V6 Conversion >A firend of mine is wondering whther he ought to buy this Rover, it's a SIII >88' with a 2.8ford V6. He wants it mostly for the OD. Anybody know anything [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >hoping to get it for the OD and then maybe fix it up and sell it for about the >same price. Mr. Curious, This is the first time I've heard of one of these conversions this side of the pond. There's a firm in the U.K. that makes two different such conversions, one for the Ford Colgne V-6s (which the 2.8 would be) and another for the Essex V-6s such as the 3.0-liter. Steve Parker Land-Rovers is the name of the outfit. I think there may be another firm doing this as well. Apparently the 2.8 is pretty popular in the U.K. because you pretty regularly see Land-Rovers so equipped for sale in LROI. What's interesting about this conversion, as far as I'm concerned, is that the 4.0-liter V-6 used in the Ford Explorer and also in the Ranger pickup is also a Colgne V-6 (made in Cologne, Germany) and so, theoretically, should fit that same adapter. This is rather exciting to me as this engine is readily available here (in the U.S.), very compact and very smooth (both because it's a 60-degree vee design which is the natural balance angle for V-6 and V-12 designs). It's not the most powerful (160bhp) but plenty for an 88. But the 2.8? Why bother with the cost and hassle of a conversion for that little gain? I'd be interested in buying the conversion pieces if someone parts it out :^) Cheers, Granny ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 17:08:50 -0400 Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? Hey Mike.... Sounds like a good place to set-up ECR-West..besides that way you could hold an off-road day and Rally out there and then no one would complain that Maine was too far to drive..that way you COULD satisfy everybody See Ya Steve Bradke 72 S lll 88 (For Sale ) WA2GMC 68 S lla 88 96 Discovery SE 7 ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 17:12:34 -0400 Subject: Re: T-shirts In light of recent postings on things commercial lets keep this project to as much a volunteer effort as possible ..... As it seems the majority thinks the shirts are a good idea lets get a deadline established and all those with ideas for the layout and design could submit them and get them posted at a website where votes could be taken on a final design... ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 14:21:57 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? You wrote: snip >> Anyone in this >> part of Oregon who can take a stop by and check this out? Sounds [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >I had a little trouble finding O'Brien, OR, but it turns out to be in SW >Oregon south of Grants Pass on Hwy 199 snip >Is this another one of those well kept secrets that everybody in Oregon >knows? snip >Rgds, >Walt >> a bit fantastic. This brings back memories. About 3 and a bit years ago when I first started looking for a Series vehicle, I spotted an advert. in the S.F. Chronicle (what passes for a newspaper in these parts of Calif. :) ). The ad was from a fellow selling, as I recall, a SIII 88. When I called the vehicle had already sold. I no longer have the number but, he was definitely in Oregon in the Grant's Pass area and sounded as if he were running a business because he took my name and number and indicated he commonly had vehicles for sale. He certainly took the trouble to advertise in the Bay Area. I never did hear back from him though. He was friendly enough and sounded like he knew a reasonable amount about series vehicles. I never heard of the fellow from anyone else in the 'Rover world though so I sort of let it slip. I'm willing to bet this is the same fellow; however, the quantities of vehicle/parts involved seems to fall into the "too good to be true" category. Now I'm wondering just what's up there. After all, it's only 6 hrs away as the D90 flys. I remember passing the turnoff on our way up to the PNWTT meet. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 16:31:54 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: Land Rover duds I am looking for an authenic "Pith Helmet" to wear in my Land Rover. No I have lots of the new type that are round and look like a woven straw or similar material. You see lots of these on life guards etc. No I want to replace my British Guard one which is slightly longer on the back than at the sides and front and it has a leather strap over the front. It also has a small button on the top with 4 arched louvers to let in the air and I think to attack the plume to when on dress parade. I have one which is over 30 years old and is looking a bit "rough" as it were. I would like the address of somewhere to order same or if someone has one they want to sell I would like to have it. No I don't wear it to Land Rove very often, but when I pull the Red Cross float in our local parade people seem to expect to see me in it :-) I guess they associate these hats with the "real thing" as it were. Dave VE4PN P.S. the one I have is white, I think for parade use, but most come in kaki brown for battle conditions. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 17:35:24 -0400 From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Re: Land Rover duds >I am looking for an authenic "Pith Helmet" to wear in my Land Rover. Brigade Quartermasters in the U.S. 1-800-338-4327 or at <http://www.actiongear.com> For $34.95US you can be the proud owner of a WWII Type USMC Khaki Sun Helmet. Fabric covered rigid fiber, adjustable head band (one size fits all) and a chin strap. Catalog number is KSH1960. Enjoy. RoverOn! JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== Love is fine until you taste This melancholy bouillabaisse called letting go --Jimmy Buffett ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 17:41:41 -0400 From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Re: Land Rover duds Whoops -- I misread David's original message about Pith Helmets. Unfortunately, the USMC helmet is the modern round type. It is not, however, woven. Sorry to get your hopes up, maybe someone else is looking for one??? JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== Ia oro te natura E mea arofa teie ao nei Ua oau te maitai no te fenua Te vai noa ra te ora o te mitie --Jimmy Buffett, One Particular Harbour ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 16:10:07 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: Ford V6 Conversion Hi Granville, When I was at Billing a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that an especially nice Dormobile had a 3000 V6 sticker on the side. Sure enough, hunkering down in the engine bay was a nice little V6 looking for all the world like it really belonged there. Lots of room all around, clean firewall/bulkhead modification and no external changes (aside from the decal). The owner said it had been in there for 2-3 years, and he was extremely happy with it. I doubt that he pushed it very hard, and seldom had it off road (if at all); he had had no undue breakage of the drive line and achieved his objective of being able to keep up with traffic on the motorway hills. As an added bonus, his fuel mileage had improved markedly. If I recall correctly, he still had the overdrive installed. In any case, this looks to be a viable conversion that does little violence to the basic vehicle and provides a significant, but not excessive, increase in power and economy. It would be interesting to hear from other LROs that have experience with the Ford V6. Rgds, Walt * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Walter C. Swain | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us * * Davis Community Network | 1969 Dormobile- "Bertha" * * Davis, California | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * On Fri, 2 Aug 1996, Granville Pool wrote: > Mr. Curious, > This is the first time I've heard of one of these conversions this side of [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)] > I'd be interested in buying the conversion pieces if someone parts it out :^) > Cheers, ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 16:12:23 -0700 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: LA British Car Meet The LROA has received notice of the LA British Car Meet coming up September 22. It sounds much like the Palo Alto meet September 8, and somewhat less than the Portland meet on Labor Day. Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> The Los Angeles British Car Meet Woodley Park, Van Nuys Sunday, September 22, 1996 Once again, Southern California British car enthusiasts are invited to return to Woodley Park in Van Nuys for the Los Angeles British Car Meet. This tree shaded lawn event attracts over 500 cars, 14 clubs and hundreds of spectators. Cars need not be in show condition, daily runners and works in progress are encouraged. Bring a picnic lunch or dine on American and traditional British food. There will be People's Choice awards in five classes. *Spectators attend free!!* Registration: Registration fee is $15 per car at the gate. Cars will be placed on the field by marque starting at 9:00 AM. There will be no pre-registration. Directions: Woodley Park is located directly west of the San Diego Freeway (405) between the Victory Blvd. and Burbank Blvd. exits, just north of the Ventura Freeway (101) interchange. Take the Burbank Blvd. exit and turn west onto Burbank. At the next signal, turn right onto Woodley and continue for about a block. Look for the parking lot entrance at the right and line up for registration. Information: 310-392-6605, Fax 310-396-1933 ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 19:49:40 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: New event! Here we go again Dear All, especially you off roaders... Start getting you and your Rovers in shape!!!! A new event hosted this fall by ECR is on the horizon. Unlike the July 4th Off Road Day, this one will be a little different... An Off Road competition, for Rover products only. It will encompass driving skill, vehicle set up, intelligence, etc. Not just a go fast deal, a real challenge. We are still working out the details, but the site is all set, and we will be looking for competitors soon. When... to be determined, but won't conflict with other Rover functions. Where... Western Maine, near the NH border. Who... competitors will be those serious about off roading, and willing to prove in various classes that they are the best, or are willing to compete with the best. Spectators as always are welcome. Why... because everyone at ECR is sick and twisted and just can't leave well enough alone. An entry fee for the competitors will cover camp lodging, vehicle entry, food during the event, etc. No charge for spectators. The number of Rovers will be limited, and a few basic rules will apply, other than that it will be up to your skill, Rover's capability, and luck to win the challenge. Did I mention that winners will win prizes to be determined *not just trophys* looks like cash, and or off road Rover equipment, as well as knowing, for at least a year, you will be known as the best. More information will be leaked out as we iron out the details... Now for your part... If you belong to a Land Rover club, we will be asking for your help, and your best! Still working this out, but we'd like to compete, not only Rover and its team against other Rovers and teams, but club team against club team. If you or your club are interested let me know. See ya, Off Road! From: Mike Smith East Coast Rover Co. 207.594.8086 21 Tolman Road *Rt. 90* 207.594.8120 fax Warren, Maine 04864 ecrover@midcoast.com Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More Series Coil Chassis Specialists ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 20:56:20 -0100 From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) Subject: T Shirts Put me down for 2 xtra larges, all cotton, and low neck. This puts me in mind of the Iceland Beerlovers Association. Don't make their mistake. They ordered the "usual mix" of T-shirts and ended up with lots and lots of S shirts. Seems nobody realized that beerlovers tend to come in sizes like L, XL, XXL and so on. Regards, Ned Heite (Unashamedly an old fart) P O Box 53 Camden, Delaware 19934 USA Cut-Rate Archaeologist and Town Crank ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 21:42:27 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Subject: Re: generic rusting >Speaking of grease what type would you suggest. I tried white lithium >on the door hinges but because they are external the lithium began to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >clump. >Lucas C. I found white lithium grease to be superb. Living on the coast the sea spray here destroys the screws that deal with headlight mounting and allignment. Having learned that lesson with my first (2nd-hand) Russian Niva I sprayed the headlight surrounds on my 2nd (new) Niva with lithium grease. 4 years later I had to change a headlight for the first time and all of the small Phillips screws were in perfect condition. It works. Allan St. Lucia ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 23:06:16 -0500 From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> Subject: Solicitation of Opinions from the All Knowing Opinions solicited, preferrably knowledgable and/or intelligent but not essential; at least friendly though Harmless lunatic gentleman with Series I rover is experienceing the following problem with his 1997cc petrol motor. While ideling the engine produces billowing blue cloud banks from the exhaust pipe. Big ones. Once on the throttle, accelerating (gathering speed), cruising etc. the condition is not apparent. But ideling or puttering along in low range first or second produces an apparant low-lying cumulous-nimbous effect. Compression is a consistent 120 lbs. on all four. He assumes this is not bad for an engine with 6.?:1 compression ratio. Inspection of this motor and another similar reveal no intake valve oil seals - is this normal? Also very poor oil drainage system from on top of head. Oil must flow up-hill to push-rod holes which are mostly filled with push-rods. Any ideas as to which component of this engine is failing or is this a normal problem. Also, in the event that this engine is ever removed again, is it still possible to get a rear main seal? This one is harder than the crank. Feverishly awaiting your response. As ever your humble servent; Ronald ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 23:05:04 -0700 From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Dielectric Grease ericz@cloud9.net wrote: > BTW, besides Ford, anyone know a good brand of dialectric grease available in > the states (natural aversion to going to the dealer) The mechanic at a LRNA dealer told me to just use any that was available from an auto store. A small tube at a consumer auto supply (Grand Auto, Kragen on the West Coast) store costs about $4 but you can get a large can for about $15 from an auto supply store that supply stuff to auto repair shops. ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 23:15:19 -0700 From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: IIa help please (Dielectric Grease) ericz@cloud9.net wrote: > BTW, besides Ford, anyone know a good brand of dialectric grease available in > the states (natural aversion to going to the dealer) Forgot to add: The small tube I bought is made by Loctite Corporation. ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 22:57:58 PST Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead) This pile is in Phoenix, Arizona. The guy who restored my Series IIA is trying to sell out his yard, says he has the largest collection of Series Is this side of the Mississippi. He is a pretty neat guy-has worked on Land Rovers for 20+ years. His partner is in Oregon, thus the Oregon address Cheers Chris W 1966 Series IIA 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 23:05:10 PST Subject: Re: Land Rover duds From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead) If you are still looking I can probably get you one -will take a bit of time though as they come from a friend in Africa. cheers chris W ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 23:03:32 PST Subject: Re: A pile of Rovers?? From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead) You wrote: >About 3 and a bit years ago when I first started looking for a Series >vehicle, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)] >PNWTT meet. >cheers, >Jeremy These vehicles and parts are there, and they are true, ask Rob Modica, he saw them on Thursday when he and Gerry Elam went to see Marty cheers chris ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 1996 00:02:06 -0700 From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: IIa help please (Dielectric Grease) > ericz@cloud9.net wrote: > > BTW, besides Ford, anyone know a good brand of dialectric grease available in > > the states (natural aversion to going to the dealer) I forgot to add that the tube I bought was made by Loctite Corporation in the USA. ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 22:57:39 -0700 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Swivel balls At 10:07 AM 8/2/96 -0400, you wrote: >I've been noticing a significant increase in the flow of 140W from both right >and left swivel balls. The rate's high enough to require topping off every [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >2. I plan to replace the balls at the same time I do the seals since they're >showing significant pitting. Should I do any other items as long as I'm in there? >I've been noticing a significant increase in the flow of 140W from both right Hi Nate. I did mine earlier this year. It is not "hard" as in requiring skill or strength, but there are a number of parts to remove and they are usually filthy to clean up and repaint, etc. The job took me several evenings, admittedly only working 1-2 hours a day. Someone competent could do it in a day. You will need a hydraulic press to press the old swivel pin out and press the new one in; I found one at a brake shop, cost $10. You'll also need a pickle fork tool or similar to detach the steering arms from the track rod. You should probably plan on replacing swivel ball seals, pins, and bushings; axle seal, hub seal and distance piece if suspect; and check the hub inner/outer bearings and swivel ball bottom bearings. It is enough work to get in there that you might as well renew everything. There are various locking plates, etc., that you'll need too. British Pacific sells a swivel ball overhaul set with all the seals, locking plates, pins, etc. that you will need (532268) but even then quiz them to make sure you're getting everything needed. I don't have much else to add about the procedure except to mention the steps that puzzled me. First, the half-shafts may be unwilling to be extracted from the differential. There is no secret to this: longtime companionship has simply worn the mating surfaces together. Simply put the point of a big screwdriver or similar in the UJ area of the halfshaft, brace the middle of the screwdriver against the swivel housing, and tap on the handle with your trusty mallet to lever the halfshafts out. Second, see the earlier thread about removing the distance piece from the stub axle. Third, your local plumbing shop has various pipe fittings that are just the right size to tap the bearing out of/into the swivel housing, if you can't do it with tools at hand. (I was always afraid of skewing the bearings by tapping first on one side and then the other etc.) Fourth, the locking tabs on the stub axle attaching bolts go on with the concave side facing the axle! Fifth, fill the swivel housing with 90-wt oil, and do not pack the hub with grease, although the bearings may as well have some grease in them "for starters". Sixth, tighten the hub bearing nuts only somewhat snug, since overtightening "squeezes" the bearings. The lock washer keeps either nut from loosening. Some time ago someone (Terri Ann perhaps?) gave better instructions on exactly how tight these nuts should be. ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 1996 22:57:45 -0700 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: LA British Car Meet At 04:12 PM 8/2/96 -0700, you wrote: > The LROA has received notice of the LA British Car Meet coming up > September 22. It sounds much like the Palo Alto meet September 8, and [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > Sunday, September 22, 1996 <snip> I've gone to the Woodley Park show the last two years. It is held in a large grassy park with shade trees. There are usually 20+ Land Rovers and British Pacific's booth, as well as all the other marques. A British food caterer sells bangers and mash and suchlike, there's entertainment, and the cool grass is a nice place to kick back. Nice show: see you there! ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 03:16:43 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca> Subject: TV sighting No one else appears to have posted this, so I guess I will. During the CBC's Olympics coverage, a commercial for Sony camcorders had featured, in some very quick cuts a couple tearing across rugged Andes-type terrain in what appears to be an 86" SerI, well-worn and topless. Annoying commercial, nice old Land Rover. Cheers Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver "It's noisier on the inside" ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 01:25:08 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Re: Pull-Pal: Would a Danforth Anchor Work? On Thu, 1 Aug 1996 Gregspitz@aol.com wrote: > I finally got stuck in the mud with no trees around and > Pull-Pal came in handy. It is a foldable land anchor. Would a large Danforth anchor work the same way? Pull-Pal is pretty expensive. Other ground anchor suggestions? ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 02:00:00 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: T-shirts?! I've been away for 2 days and find about 80 messages about.....T-shirts. >From LRO's who thought that discussion of Range Rovers, D90s and Discos was too "plush" for the LRO list - so we got the CSO list. T-shirts?! Jeez! Time for another list! Suggested fabrics: LRO list members: burlap CSO members: velour Projected sales of either of the above: zero. ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 61 lines 2456 [forwarded 277 whitespace 636] Output: lines 1824 [content 1055 forwarded 139 (cut 138) whitespace 584] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960803 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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