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From: eheite@dmv.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 08:16:38 -0400
Subject: Oil in gearboxes

Larry Magpanty's comment on the lack of oil in his overdrive led me 
to thinking about my recent experience with my transfer box. Like Larry,
I decided to change the ninety-weight, so I bought a really fine pump
and went to it. By the way, Forestry Suppliers has an excellent hand
piston pump for less than $25. Anyway, I opened the transfer box and
some disgusting black glop fell out.  After wrestling off the drain
plugs, I pumped ninety-weight into all the working parts underneath.

Next day, there was a rectangular spot of oil on the driveway, exactly
the size and shape of the cover under the transfer box. This persisted
for several days, until the oil level in the transfer box was down way
below the fill hole.

I know it is supposed to leak oil. The official manual says you protect
the starter with oil leaking from the rear main bearing! But did I
damage the transfer gearbox by draining off the glop?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jul 96 08:57:08 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Oil in gearboxes

Larry Magpanty's comment on the lack of oil in his overdrive led me 
to thinking about my recent experience with my transfer box. Like Larry,
I decided to change the ninety-weight, so I bought a really fine pump
and went to it. By the way, Forestry Suppliers has an excellent hand
piston pump for less than $25. Anyway, I opened the transfer box and
some disgusting black glop fell out.  After wrestling off the drain
plugs, I pumped ninety-weight into all the working parts underneath.

Next day, there was a rectangular spot of oil on the driveway, exactly
the size and shape of the cover under the transfer box. ..snip..

I know it is supposed to leak oil. The official manual says you protect
the starter with oil leaking from the rear main bearing! But did I
damage the transfer gearbox by draining off the glop?

Sounds to me like the goop was in there so long it turned into a goopy mess that
was too thick to leak out. Try tightening up the screws on the x-fer box pan. 
Mine were very loose once when I checked them. If that doesn't work then you may
need to take it off and redo the gasket. Make sure if you use gasket sealer that
it goes inside of the bolt holes, otherwise it'll just seep around the bolts...

Cheers

Dave "or just let it leak" B.

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 09:01:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Frame Dimentions...

Thanks for the input about the rear frame/bushing mount for springs on a 88".
I replaced the springs not too long ago (maybe 2 years?), as they seemed to
be sagged out, but the new ones assumed the same profile in very little time,
and the shackle was again in near proximity to the crossmember. The new
springs ("genuine parts") might have actually been weaker than the ones that
were replaced which were also most likely "genuine parts". Is there any
feedback available on domestic vs. British/genuine parts springs? My
strongest suspicion is that during a rear crossmember replacement, by a PO,
the required dimensions were deviated from, and the bushings are not
correctly placed. I guess I'll have to lift it up and measure it to know
definately; right now the axle case obscures getting an accurate measurement
as it sits on the ground. 'Nicky' does get regularly overloaded with 6' logs
and then driven (sometimes very 'offroad') out of the woodlot, but the
problem existed before those conditions/loads were applied. I realize it must
aggravate any existing problems, and I usually remove the load as soon as
possible, but I don't tend to get very frantic about it. It's looking like
it's going to take an afternoon with the electric wrench to put things right.
I was becoming optomistic when I saw the mention of bushing differences for
the different frames... Now it's sounding like a good project for say, maybe
next year?...
Might the longer shackles help(I know that's hard to say without seeing the
situation), and what are the deleterious effects of their prolonged use?
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 22:51:12 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Royal Rovers, and also 6x6

1. re oz 6x6
   There is a picture of the rear suspension of a 6x6 at
   <URL:http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Perentie/>
   it is quite cunning.

2. Richard Hughes (he of Minerva's) is researching Royal and Parade
   Rovers and is seeking more information about them ...
   100601.506@CompuServe.COM

3. re the S1 stn wgns -
   the 107 sw (Meccano kit) continued for a while after the SII models came in

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 07:37:20 -0700
From: DANIEL OPPENHEIM <daniel5@best.com>
Subject: Insurance for your truck

Help! I'm trying to go through AAA (American Automobile Assn.) to get
insurance for Kermit, my '65 Ser IIA 88" Station Wagon. They claim the "gold
book" value is a  maximum  of $3500. I need no insure it for significantly
more than that. They said in the event of  an accident,IF  I can provide
proof of its actual value, they'll reimburse me for  same. They also
mentioned that I might need to find a specialty carrier that covers antiques
or fully restored cars. It's way expensive and I also loose all the
advantages of my AAA membership (2nd car discount, road service, maps, etc.) 

What are you all doing to get appropriate coverage for the actual value, or
true value of your trucks? Please advise. Thanks a ton...
                                                        Daniel J. Oppenheim 
Oppenheim Associates - A  Managment Consulting Firm  based in  San Fransisco
daniel@mgmtconsult.com       phone: (415) 282-5500          fax: (415) 282-5005
                                                 1965 Ser IIA 88", "Kermit"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 12:05:39 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Royal Rovers, and also 6x6

>2. Richard Hughes (he of Minerva's) is researching Royal and Parade
>   Rovers and is seeking more information about them ...
>   100601.506@CompuServe.COM

The only Royal Rover that I know of in Canada is is the Eastern Townships.
It is a 1964 (I think) 109 SW that was used by Prince Philip in 1965 or so
on a fishing trip in the Northern Quebec. It is now owned by somebody in
Montreal and is currently under a complete restoration. The vehicle was
brought in over there and stayed there everafter, until it was brought back
south. No salt in that area,(actually, nothing except trees and lakes), the
frame is very good. Personnally, I think it looks cool with the royal
emblems on the front doors. I could try to get the serial number, if
somebody is interested. If I have a good memory, it had a few add-ons, such
as fishing-rod racks and nicer seats. I'll have to check.

Take care, 

Michel Bertrand

Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 00:28:28 +1100
From: Dion Mikkelsen <mikkelsd@topaz.cqu.edu.au>
Subject: Softtop LR's

Hi everyone.

I'll skip the usual lines about this being my first post etc, and get to
the meat of the question. :)

Basically, I was wondering how everyone who owns a softop LR finds them
as everyday transport (if they get used fo that reason).  This is for
two reasons.  

The road noise.  Yes I have experienced a "vintage" LR at full flight,
but was wondering if it gets any worse with a softop.  Also, how stable
are the tops.  Majoirty of use at 70 kph but occasionally on the open
highway at 110kph.

Secondly, how about security ?  I know you can get lock boxes, lock the
seats down and remove the master key, but security for oddments in the
cabin as well as "silly vandalism" such as pointless ripping of the top,
ripping seats and breaking stuff in general.  Or is it not as bad as I
envisage.  I would be using it everyday and it would be left sitting at
the university for long periods as well as at a busy shopping centre.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, either to the list or via email. 
I know that a hard top would be more practical, but the soft top has a
lot of appeal.  And I don't really want to have to change them over all
the time.  The soft top is idea for our climate :)

Again, thanks for any help.

Dion Mikkelsen.

 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
      A friend of mine once sent me a postcard with a picture
     of the entire earth taken from space.  On the back it said
                " ... wish you were here .... "
--------------------------------------------------------------------
 Dion Mikkelsen                 2nd year B. Electrical Engineering
 email me at 				 mikkelsd@topaz.cqu.edu.au 
 URL	       http://cq-pan.cqu.edu.au/students/dionm1/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 18:24:51 GMT
From: ricky@drift.demon.co.uk (Rick Turner)
Subject: Speedo troubles

Check that your speedo cable hasn't sheared - they tend to do so where
the cable comes through the bulkhead, or about 5cm down from the end
that fits into the speedometer itself (the rounded end is normal, by
the way). Try turning the end gently while the vehicle is stationary
and if it turns freely, the cable is sheared....

If the cable is intact, check that the fitting that holds the other
end onto the side of the gearbox (at the back) is done up tight.

If the cable is ok and the fitting is tight, undo the gearbox end and
make sure that the splines on the shaft are not warn - if they are,
replace the cable. BTW, this fitting is a bitch to refit correctly,
especially if you have an overdrive fitted.

Rick Turner (1984 109 H/top and 1979 109 Safari station wagon)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 11:52:22 -0800
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@alaska.net>
Subject: Electronic Ignitions

I've beeb running an electronic Ignition for a couple years now.  What I 
did was get rid of the Lucas distributor and fit a General Motors HEI 
system, which is regarded as one the best ignitions out there.  It is 
not hard, although it does require some machine work so it will be more 
expensive than building your own(Unless you are friends with a 
machinist).  Rover fit a distributor to these engines by the use of an 
adapter.  I simply made a different adapter.  The distributor to use is 
a mid 70's to very early 80's vacum advance HEI unit from a Oldsmobile 
V-8.  Use the Olds unit because it is designed to turn counter 
clockwise, which is what we need.  Most all of the other HEI units turn 
clockwise.  Use a cap from a GM 151 4cyl engine with coil inegral to the 
cap, Chevy citations used these as well as others.  The cap will fit the 
distributor body with no problems.  converting the 8cyl dist. to 4cyl is 
easy.  HEI uses a magnetic pick-up system.  The shaft has 8 triangular 
points that line up with 8 triangular points on a ring in the 
distributor body.  Using the 4cyl cap and a rotor it is easy to find 
which points are not needed. grind them off.  It is best to fit a vacum 
advance canister from a 4cyl, or beeter yet get an adjustable unit from 
someone like Accell.  Using the old Rover distributor and adapter as a 
model you will need to shorten the Olds dist. body very slightly.  The 
Rover drive gear will fit the Olds shaft, just be careful how you orient 
the drive grear as it will determine how the distributor is 
oriented(i.e. which way the vacum canister is pointed ect.).  For the 
adapter I started out with a triangle piece of 1/2" steel cut using the 
Rover dist. adapter gasket as a template.  Into the middle of this is 
inserted a piece of tubing sized to fit the Olds dist. body.  Remember 
to use the Rover Parts as a pattern to get the depth right. The Rover 
hold down can be reused, you will have to bend it open, fit it around 
the dist. body and then bend it closed.  Drill and tap a hole in the 
1/2" plate for a stud to afix the hold down.  For plug wires I used a 
cut to fit set for HEI aplications from Jacobs, lots of people offer 
them.  It sounds kind of complicated, but it is not to bad and a good 
learning experience.  I know I haven't been overly detailed, but it is 
best to research it yourself.  I just wanted to provide enough info to 
let people know it is possible.  The advantages of the GM unit over 
other electronic ignitions are adapability and parts availability.  All 
of the distributors in this family, 4-6-8 cyl share parts, this lowers 
production costs for GM.  Most of the speed parts for the small block 
Chevy will work in all the HEI distributors.  Adjustable vacum units, a 
huge selection of advance weights and springs, coils, modules, ect. 
Because of this, it is the most tunable ignition system out there.  The 
disadvantages are that you have two custom pieces that reqire machine 
work, the adpater and the distributor body.  It also takes up a lot of 
room as these distributors are very large.  I have been very happy with 
mine.

Tim Sitter

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 22:39:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo woes from darkest BC

Clinton, maybe you should pop off the rear dirveshaft and retorque the
flange. That's what holds the worm gear from turning, since it isn't keyed.
And after the rebuild, isn't it time to go over the tranny and transfer case
snugging up fasteners? Cheers!! John Dillingham

------------------------------

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