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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 06:51:22 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: LR88 SIII 2.25L Horse Power and Torque?

> power and max.torque of the 2.25L engine.

-
Horsepower and torque in a LR 2.25L? What's that? I've been driving 
SIIa's & SIII's for years and never had either one. Where can I get 
some?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: Re: adverts
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:13:37 GMT

> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 00:14:12 -0800
> From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>  Toss away!
>  Cheers,
Micheal, be careful what you suggest to this man, tossing is a slang term for
erhm uh, oh erm "sex with someone you love" (woody allen) :-)

danny p

------------------------------

From: rostek@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Rostek Wolfgang)
Subject: anmeldung uk-lro list
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:33:21 LOCAL

subscibe uk-lro

------------------------------

From: "DAVE MCKAIN" <MCKAIN@cemr.wvu.edu>
Date:          Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:34:14 EDT
Subject:       Lost Address

Hey all,
Can anyone send me the recently posted web site address for selling 
LR's.
Thanks,

David McKain
1972 SIII SWB (parting)
1970 SIIA SWB (parting)
1969 SIIA SWB (rebuilding)
1959 SII Ex-Mil SWB
1963 SIIA SWB (parting)
mckain@cemr.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 11 Mar 96  8:58:18 EST
Subject: I need an opinion on piston rings

I'm in the process of putting my spare engine back together after giving it a 
good checkout (I just acquired it) and a source that I respect has told me to 
change the piston rings while I have the engine open - it'll be easier in the 
long run as the old ones are shot.

I have a problem with this - anybody care to venture an opinion? The piston 
walls aren't scored and everything looks fine, so I don't see a reason to not 
leave well enough alone.

   aj"Cheap but trying not to be stupid"r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 09:36:55 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Starters

Dave Bobeck's "fix" involves a 2x4 and a largish hammer, I believe...

Cheers
Mike

DO NOT: Belittle the healing powers of 2x4's:

It may seem brutish, but actually was just what the doctor ordered and there's 
nothing wrong with brute force applied judiciously and with a degree of finesse 
:-) (No hammer involved, BTW, hammers+ metal things+ cold weather= $$$$)

Acutally, I had this problem for several weeks, where the starter would spin but
wouldn't pop out to engage the flywheel. The trick was to stick a 2x4 down 
behind the manifolds and knock the starter casing a few times. Usually did a 
good job of freeing everything up. After a while that problem went away and was 
replaced by a different problem, which has now gone away, and has been replaced 
by another pr........  Also dirty solenoid connections will make the starter 
turn over slllllowly, or not at all. A good test is to hold the start button or 
key in the start position for half a minute or so. Have somebody look to see if 
there's a small fire on the solenoid. If there is, then you have dirty 
connectors. Keep a fire extinguisher handy when performing this test. Also you 
could just look at them to see if they are dirty...

Happy Happy

Dave "Not using any small mammals to paint my chassis because PETA wouldn't 
approve" Bobeck
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:52:41 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: I need an opinion on piston rings

Alan Richer wrote:

> change the piston rings while I have the engine open - it'll be easier 
> in the long run as the old ones are shot. 
If the piston rings are shot, surely it makes sense to renew them? Or 
you could put them back and buy lots of oil. It all depends on what is 
meant by "shot". What are the pistons like. Bearings? If the pistons are 
out already, you are more than half way to getting the job done.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Def-90 knocking
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:47:13 UNDEFINED

>BTW, my 94-D90 engine makes a "ticking" sound when first started up: a 
>very fast tic-tic-tic-tic-tic, etc. That I hear best when just starting 
>out, but if I stop at a stop sign or light, it is still there after 5 or 
>10 minutes. After driving longer, it goes away. What means this?

Not entirely related, but if a 2.25 deisel does this STOP IMMEDIATELY. It 
could be an ignition chamber about to drop into the cylinder and trash the 
engine. DONT assume it's just tappets. Apparently it's possible to pull out a 
glowplug and check if the chamber wiggles.

Also apparently, I gather the 2.5 in the 90 is fixedso this doesnt happen. I 
have my fingers crossed........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:04:43 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: 2 1/4 Engine For Sale

fessional Rebuilt 2 1/4 liter engine for sale.
Also have other used parts for sale for the "series"

Fulton New York                         Kier Ouderkirk
     1970 IIA 88
     lic# LRS RULE

What is your email address? 

Dave
Wash DC
dbobeck@ushmm.org

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 11 Mar 96 08:07:14 MST
Subject: Ascii Land-Rover art.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Jeff asked who had some LR ascii art. That would be me (anyone else?)
I'm sending him my file (ascii, or course) but just letting "the list"
know that I have it, and all are welcome. (After all, very little of it
was actually drawn by me, most of it was snagged from "your" signature
files!)

If anyone would like to share what they have, I'd be happy to share as
well! I could post it to the list, but it's over 900 lines long, and
many might not appreciate it.

Just e-mail me and I'll send you a copy!

Dave (LR fanatic) Brown

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___          _________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_     //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |    \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      (_)    (_)
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates     (Too hard to "draw")  rear Lock-Right
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052                        Crane cam
 Have: tools, knowledge, couch, etc...  Pager: (602) 275-2508 #6486

#=======#         _________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:10:03 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: I need an opinion on piston rings

I'm in the process of putting my spare engine back together after giving it a 
good checkout (I just acquired it) and a source that I respect has told me to 
change the piston rings while I have the engine open - it'll be easier in the 
long run as the old ones are shot.

I have a problem with this - anybody care to venture an opinion? The piston 
walls aren't scored and everything looks fine, so I don't see a reason to not 
leave well enough alone.

   aj"Cheap but trying not to be stupid"r

Isn't there a feeler gauge test for rings? You can't REALLY tell how good they 
are just by looking. You could also slap a cylinder head on there and do a leak 
down...

Dave "Trying to sound like I know what I'm talking about" B.

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 96 10:19:41 EST
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@compuserve.com>
Subject: Cooling Systems

Ref:   Water wetter

This solution seems to have two properties - a corrosion inhibitor, which any
good antifreeze will have anyway, and a detergent or similar base which will
reduce the surface tension of water and in effect make it wetter. This will
prevent the formation of air bubbles as the water surrounding the bubble will
not have enough surface tension to form the wall of the bubble.

I hope this is making sense as I am confusing myself.

 BTW some fire extinguishers have wetting agents in them to increase the
'soakability' of water.

Dishwasher rinse aid also works in this way - with less surface tension in the
water you dont get water marks etc.

I haven't tried it in my Rangie though - bubbles might be a problem.

Best wishes to anyone and everyone.

Richard Brownlee

72 109 1 Ton. Tetley (1000 perforations in every chassis)
77 Range Rover - new toy -no name as yet.  Soon to be painted pink (74 XJ6
colour) so will come up with a name then.

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mdms.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:25:07 -0600
Subject: PS to the log

I forgot to put this in...

I've been thinking of making my own weight loss video: "The Harincar   
Rover Workout Tape" :-)

I've you've been trying to shed those extra holiday pounds, do a frame   
over! Since I began this little project, I've dropped about 8 pounds,   
which is a lot of a guy that started out 5'8" and 152#.

I attribute most of that to shivering...

:-)

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:38:56 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: A few Answers

 Concerning temporary/transport tags--

When I bought my Rover in Potsdam, NY, I paid 10 dollars for a TRANSPORT tag. 
This was a tag that was good for 30 days, and I had to write the destination and
origin points on the back. No inspection was required. As far as I was 
concerned, I was in transit as long as that tag was on the window. There were no
glaring faults on the car to indicate that it was not safe, unlike Duncans 
missing headlights, etc... That may have made it mote difficult. I chose to 
scrape off the expired NY inspection before hitting the road. I figure dbetter 
nothing than an expired something. Anyway, I used that tag around DC for the 
entire 30 days. Then I got it reg'd in DC, and had another 30 days before I had 
to get it inspected. After those thirty days I had another 20 days to stop it 
from smoking... 

Dave "Now it's legit" B.

Should've titled this one- How to stop smoking in *just* 80 days...

------------------------------

Date:     Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:22:08 EST (1522Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  I need an opinion on piston rings

Alan,

FWIW, I'd first check the cylinder bore for roundness and
constant diameter up and down the bore.  If its true,
I'd lightly hone and put in new rings.  If not, it
really needs to be bored unless you want to do the
whole job again sometime in the future.

What we had on the M151 "jeep" that was replaced
by the HUMMER was a Ford OHC four banger.  For
what ever reason, it wore the bores oval in direct
relation to the crank rotation.  When we didn't
have the time, new rings, but would see the truck
again very soon with blow by.  When you're in the
field and spending "Uncle Sugar's" money, it may
make sense to do a quicky.  If you're doing your
own and spending your own bucks, do it right the
first time.

'til later,

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA
smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:50:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Quarterly AW? (was: Joining LROA, was: AW)

On Sun, 10 Mar 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  Oh geeeez, I figured maybe someone would take this literally! :)

	Of course you know that I would... :-)  If you wish, not only
	can I expound on AW's publication record, but that of ROAV, BSROA,
	Solihull Society, LRC (Victoria, Aus) while I am at it  (OVLR of
	course too... <grin>).  As I have long said, the most important
	thing for any newsletter is that it appears in the members mailbox
	on time.  If it doesn't...

>  Admittedly the current issue is WAY late, caused in part by the
>  changeover to a new administration.  But bear with us, we hope to catch
>  up with another issue soon and then establish strict publication dates.
>  No one will be shortchanged in their membership subscriptions, which if
>  need be will be extended.

	ALROC...

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: Alf Liang <liang@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Idling Problem
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:06:40 PST

I am troubleshooting a couple of problems which have developed on my '88 RR 
recently.  I plan to follow the shop manual to do it step by step, but 
wondering if any other owners experienced similar problems or able to suggest 
what the likely causes could be so I can save some time.  The problems are :

1) When I drove home last Friday, the car stalled on the drive way.  Since
   then it would start and idle OK as long as I kept the engine to about 500 
   rpm.  It always stalls when I let go the gas paddle.  (I have had some 
   problem starting for a few weeks prior, due to cold weather, I thought).

2) For the last month or so, the coolant seems to drain out of the expansion
   tank very frequently that I needed to top off the radiator some times 
   twice a week. The engine runs fine and I don't think it ever got hot 
   enough to boil over (during normal 5-mile commute). I was thinking to flush 
   the radiator just in case.  

Any pointers or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Alf Liang
liang@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:26:32 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Range Rover EFI and mileage

Chris,
	Where is "Car Mechanics" magazine published? I looked for it at
lunch at huge mag shop in the world trade center. They have lots of
obscure mags from around the world but, had never heard of it. I even
found 2 different magazines all about car washes!

Rob

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:52:23 EST
Subject: Re: Idling Problem

     Alf,
     
     on the stalling problem, try taking out the idle stepper motor it 
     sounds like it might be jammed in the closed position. Push the 
     plunger in until it clicks and spray liberally with WD40 and replace. 
     I went through this 2 weeks ago with an 87 RR and have not had a 
     problem since.
     
     On the loss of coolant, I assume you have checked all the hoses for 
     leaks - don't forget to check inside the car for leaks from the heater 
     matrix. Assuming you have no apparent leaks from anywhere I would try 
     replacing the pressure cap on the coolant resevoir.
     
     Regards
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 Range Rovers(2)
     

> Subject: Idling Problem
> Author:  Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> Alf Liang
> liang@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:08:19 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: I need an opinion on piston rings

>Isn't there a feeler gauge test for rings? You can't REALLY tell how good they
>are just by looking. You could also slap a cylinder head on there and do a
>leak
>down...

Pour some gas or oil in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak
through.I did this when I had the head off (used gas) upon the
recommendation of my machinist.

Chris Stevens
'69 SRIIa 88"
Towson, MD

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 14:19:15 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: I need an opinion on piston rings

T
Pour some gas or oil in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak 
through.I did this when I had the head off (used gas) upon the 
recommendation of my machinist.
     
     So how long did it take? What would be considered good?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:27:25 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re[2]: I need an opinion on piston rings

>Pour some gas or oil in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak
>through.I did this when I had the head off (used gas) upon the
>recommendation of my machinist.
>     So how long did it take? What would be considered good?

My machinist said if it flows through in 5 minutes or less then the rings
probably should be replaced. When I did this, I actually had to sponge the
fuel from all four cylinders and hour later! Subsequent compression tests
showed 145 pounds all around.

Chris Stevens

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 1996 14:39:29 -0500
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: None

 None
get lro-digest digest 95.12

get lro-digest digest 96.01

get lro-digest digest 96.02

------------------------------

Date: 11 Mar 1996 14:39:05 -0500
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: None

 None
get lro-digest digest.95.12

get lro-digest digest.96.01

get lro-digest digest.96.02

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:40:29 -0500
Subject: Brake Fluid

In reply to following ?:
>From: Xavier541@aol.com
>I had to replace the brake fluid reservoir in my '73 series III and in the
>directions it said use only Castrol/Girling brake fluid.  Can I use regular
>Castrol fluid or do I need Girling?
Quoting from AB (Atlantic-British) parts catalog, "Due to the higher natural
rubber content of British hydraulic seals, we recommend that only Castrol LMA
Fluid be used. Other fluids may dissolve the seals."  Factory Repair
Operations Manual for Series III calls for, "Castrol Girling Brake & Clutch
Fluid 'Crimson', Specification J, 1703", which I have always understood
corresponds to Castrol LMA.  
I'd recommend playing it safe and sticking with only Castrol LMA, but others
may have other ideas - synthetics, etc.
Apologize for bandwidth, as this probably fully covered in FAQ.  See also
thread in lro digest about a month or so ago on pros and cons of synthetic
brake fluid, hygroscopy, etc. 
Happy Rovering! :>)
Doug Scott
2 ea. Series III, and charter member of BB     
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:15:56 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: I need an opinion on piston rings

I had the oppertunity to pour some engine DEgunker down one cylinder
in a  friends 90 R-Rover (wrong list i suppose).
We managed to pour a quart down in about 2 hours. As we were not really
timing the operation I am not sure on the exact rate of flow. It
did seem quite quick to me though. FYI the Rover now sits in the
Dealership with some more Degunker in the cylinder trying to free up
the stuck rings.
Russ Burns
91 R-ROver
94 D-90
95 D-90 SW

At 02:19 PM 3/11/96 PST, Bobeck, David R. wrote:
>T
>Pour some gas or oil in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>recommendation of my machinist.
>     So how long did it take? What would be considered good?
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

From: tning@gpu.com
Date: 11 Mar 96 15:49:01 
Subject: Any Experience w/ Renewed Traditions?

Hi all,
 Has anybody dealt with Renewed Traditions before?  It's located in Atlanta, 
Georgia.  I checked out their homepage.  They have this refurbished SIII (109", 
5-door, Safari Hardtop, Stage1 V-8) with Defender 110 look.  It's got Defender 
110 gearbox (would that be auto trans?).  They didn't give any info on the year 
and original miles on the SIII.  Is there anybody on the list lives near by 
Atlanta could take a look at it for me?  I would like to look at it myself.  
But I can't (I live in NJ).  

Thanks,

Tony
tning@gpu.com
tkn9389@hertz.njit.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:09:03 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Re:Polarizing a dynamo

>Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 16:44:47 -0800
>From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>enough...I can hunt for myself.
>Thanks
>Clinton D. Coates

Clinton - here's some advice from LRO June 1995, page 99 (and I take no 
responsibility except for my typing):

Any dynamo ... taken from a vehicle with opposite polarity electrics ... 
will need repolarising. The procedure is as follows:

1 Fit the dynamo, but leave the smaller F (for field) connection undone.
2 Take a length of wire, and connect one end to the battery terminal that is 
NOT earthed (ie the feed).
3 Touch the other end on to the F terminal once or possibly twice. You 
should see a blue spark as the lead is taken away.
4 That's it - dynamo repolarised!

Sounds way too simple, if you ask me. Good luck!
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:30:13 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Any Experience w/ Renewed Traditions?

Could you send me their homepage.
Thanks
Russ

At 03:49 PM 3/11/96, you wrote:
>Hi all,
> Has anybody dealt with Renewed Traditions before?  It's located in Atlanta, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>5-door, Safari Hardtop, Stage1 V-8) with Defender 110 look.  It's got Defender 
>110 gearbox (would that be auto trans?).  They didn't give any info on the
year 
>and original miles on the SIII.  Is there anybody on the list lives near by 
>Atlanta could take a look at it for me?  I would like to look at it myself.  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>tning@gpu.com
>tkn9389@hertz.njit.edu
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

From: Ray Harder  882-0521 <c113408@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 15:35:02 -0600
Subject: (fwd) Re: Tractor Size?

ok, so it is a little slow at work -- anyway, you diesel
dogs can howl at this...  

[B
Mike Ellestad <mike.ellestad@pclink.com> writes:

>I have been considering tractors and have found some diesels 
>that suit my needs. I have avoided them because of winter. I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>winters and would like it to work. Also, I am not as familiar 
>with the maintenance of diesels. Are these real concerns?

	On maintainence, there is little difference between gas
and diesels.  However, diesel fuel does gell up in cold weather
and that can be a real concern.  So let's think of diesels that
run all the damn time and figure out what they do.

	Trucks.  You'll see trucks moving along the highway with
chains on the drive wheels and temps so cold that state troopers
stay off the roads.  Their secret is engine coolant routed to the
fuel tanks and insulation around the fuel system.  You can do
the same.

	Farm tractors burn #1 diesel in the winter.  Many trucks
never switch off #2 diesel, since it provides more power per gallon.
But, they never switch those trucks off, nor do they accept a truck
motor that puts out under 300hp, and hp is heat.

	Thus, what we need to do is to grab an electrical timer and
a standard car block heater.  Add in an old transmission oil cooler
or two.  Now, place the oil cooler in the fuel tank (I had this done
by a local welder) with lines leading to the outside.  Hook that into
your engine coolant system.  Add a block heater to warm the thing up,
and a small electric pump to circulate water is a bonus.  Now plug
that thing into a wall jack conveniently timed by that wall timer (I
used one that originally did duty on the yard security light).

	At 0400 my tractor and fuel warms up.  By 0800 it's ready to
go and the fuel is in fine shape.  Engine heat keeps it that way
during the day.  Simple, really.

	I this is too much work, get a gasoline tractor.  I figure if
my diesel gels up then it's too cold for me to be outside.

			-- Dan

-- 
* Dan Sorenson,  DoD #1066,   ASSHOLE #35,  z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu *
* Vikings?  There ain't no vikings here.  Just us honest farmers.   *
* The town was burning, the villagers were dead.  They didn't need  *
* those sheep anyway.  That's our story and we're sticking to it.   *

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 17:50:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Daddis <magnet@io.org>
Subject: Re: Idling Problem

On Mon, 11 Mar 1996, Alf Liang wrote:

> I am troubleshooting a couple of problems which have developed on my '88 RR 
(snip)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>    problem starting for a few weeks prior, due to cold weather, I thought).
> Any pointers or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I had a similar problem on my '93 RR.  The fix was to unplug the 
connector from the airflow sensor unit on the air intake (just downstream 
of the air filter) clean the contacts with spray contact cleaner from 
Radio Shack, and re-connect.  Problem disappeared.  Your mileage, as they 
say, may vary, but it's worth a try.

                                    Cheers,
                                            -- BD
                                         
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bill Daddis -- Aurora, Ontario, Canada -- magnet@io.org
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 19:15:03 -0500
Subject: Re: sea changes

On Mon, 11 Mar 96, Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk> wrote:
>> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 00:14:12 -0800
>> From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>danny p
>One of those expressions that doesn't cross the Atlantic well. It's just not a 
transponder.
>> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 00:14:12 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:16:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Any Experience w/ Renewed Traditions?

I don't have any first hand exp with these folks but have seen some of 
their stuff for sale in the past. Great stuff....BUT....BIG BIG $$$$

good luck and remember    let the buyer beware

Russ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:38:23
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Trout season open...any good fishing holes ?

	Do any of you East Coasters know of a good place, preferably Rover 
access only, to fly fish for trout, smallmouth bass, old rubber boots, and 
weeds? I prefer areas within a hour or two from DC.
	I am anxious to get to some remote areas to fish this year. I know of a 
stream about an hour north, but it runs right by a roadway and is hardly the 
setting for relaxing fishing. The brookies are big there as it is a catch & 
release only stream.
	I have been out to the Harper's Ferry area for smallmouth on several 
occaisions and have always had good luck there, but I'd like to get further 
off the beaten path. 
	Any suggestions apprecitated.

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 23:40:12 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid

>I had to replace the brake fluid reservoir in my '73 series III and in the
>directions it said use only Castrol/Girling brake fluid.  Can I use regular
>Castrol fluid or do I need Girling? 
-

Castrol LMA fluid is about all you'll find in the US, I think. It will do fine.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: "Dean Cording" <CORDINGD@mail.navmat.navy.gov.au>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:48:58 +1000
Subject:       Re: I need an opinion on piston rings

 
> Isn't there a feeler gauge test for rings? You can't REALLY tell how good they 
> are just by looking. 

You can tell how worn your rings are by checking the ring gap.  The 
ring gap is the distance between the two ends of the ring where it is 
split.  Place the ring in the bore and use a piston to get it square 
in the bore.  Use a feeler guage to determine the size of the ring 
gap.  I'm not sure of the maximum gap for Land Rovers but it should 
be in the specs somewhere.

All of this of course assumes that your bores aren't significantly 
worn, which will be reflected in the ring gap.  You can check for 
bore wear by measuring the ring gap using a brand new ring.  You 
should measure the ring gap at a number of locations down the bore to 
check how even it is.

Dean

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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