Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:45:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Tailgates (series related)

> either side of the door and replace those pieces with the pieces with the
> latch pins. 

When I did this several years ago, Rovers North had just the pins 
available, so you only had to drill two holes, carefully located, and install 
the pins, leaving the plates there.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Diesel vs Petrol vs JT4
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 07:59:00 EST

:-) I'm thinking of installing a couple of Rolls Royce RB162 lift engines in 
our SIII, It will get us out of many awkward situations!!!! :-)

Trevor "Yes. I am a little crazy" Easton

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Oh Joy, Oh Wonder, Oh Disallusionment
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 08:03:00 EST

Discussing Jim Dolan's recent RR acquisition, I said to Mary "Maybe when you 
need a new car we should look for a used Rangie". She replied, "That would 
be nice but I'd rather have a Defender 90". This is a lady one can really 
love!!!
 --   --   ---   ---   ----  ----- ------ ------
Then she said, "But best of all I'd like a Ford Probe" and the bubble burst.

Trevor "Up there for a brief moment" Easton

------------------------------

Date:         Tue, 05 Mar 96 08:03:24 LCL
From: Dennis Seiler <PA7508@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Disco oil drain plug size

Does anyone know what size socket fits the oil drain plug on a 96 Disco??
thanks...

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:16:42 -0500
Subject: Grill Badges

Hank asked about grill badges...
My suggestion is to contact Eric Russell of the "Rovernet" list. He had some
4 coloured, enamaled badges made for the Rover Car Club of Canada. They were
produced in New Zealand, were of small number, and he was apparently quite
happy with them. 
You may reach him by contacting 'Rovernet' at:
        rovernet@ganglion.anes.med.umich.edu
If you need, I will forward your name to him, but will wait to hear from you
about that first...
Jim '60 P5 (628000165)
       '68 P6 SC Auto
       '68 P6 TC
       '61 SIIA 88" SW
       '84 RR

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:33:40 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: 2.6L (was diesel vs petrol)

Mike Rooth taunts:

snip
>Nice motor though.
snip

Ha! Not getting sucked into that one.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 13:41:59 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Diesel vs Petrol vs JT4

Easton Trevor wrote:
> :-) I'm thinking of installing a couple of Rolls Royce RB162 lift 
> engines in our SIII, It will get us out of many awkward situations!!!! 

<   Of course an easier way to get air lift is to use an air jack!

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 8:56:40 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Re: Disco oil drain plug size

Dennis,
If your drain plug is the same size as a Defender, it's 1 1/8".
Cheers,
Barnett

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:06:04 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Tailgates (series related)

> I have a '73 Series III and was wondering what to do about a tailgate this
> summer when I take the top off.  My rear door is solid, so it has to be taken
> off with the top.  I usually keep tools and plenty of spare oil in the bed,
> so I don't want them sliding on out when driving around...  What do you other
> Series owners do?
-
I bought a small Weatherguard tool box. It's lockable, which I'd think 
you'd want, and just fits cross wise in the bed behind the seat back 
bulkhead. It has a mounting plate that you bolt down that allows you 
to easily remove the box if you need the extra room, by turning four 
handles inside the box.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 14:14:22 
Subject: Joke - no LR content

Hi all.

Here's a little something to cheer everybody up. I think it has been travelling 
the net for a while, so you may have heard it before:

>>Actual radio conversation released by the Chief of Naval Operations, 
>>October 10, 1995.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>>     OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY.  DIVERT YOUR COURSE NOW!
>>#2.  This is a lighthouse.  It's your call.

Happy Rovering.

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 sIII STW 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:28:15 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Diesel overkill my ...

snip
> on US freeways is far safer due to the lower traffic densities, overtaking on 
> both sides, and much more polite and less psychopathically pushy driving of 
> Americans compared to Europeans. I would feel far happier bumbling along a US 
snip
The fellow who wrote "Overlanding" (he traveled all obver the world 
in his 109) said Americans are probably the most polite and least 
skilled drivers in the world. They'll wait to pull out on a road 
until there aren't any other cars in sight. In other parts of the 
world the criteria seems to be if the oncoming driver has any chance 
at all of avoiding hitting you. If they do, you pull out.

I fear it's changing though. If someone doesn't like what you did, 
they open fire. Now, who had that amoured LR for sale?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:26:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy Tapes

I did not know that conversion could be done...or who would be able to do
it...
JSB

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:26:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy Tapes 

Ben, I know they have tapes showing current L-R's...Will check with them
again
Thanks
Steve

------------------------------

From: "MR PETER KEMP" <PKEMP@lark.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:27:34 GMT+200
Subject:       Flame-Traps! Help

Dear All,

Can anybody tell me which way the Flame trap between the Carb and the 
Distributer is meant to go? Recently a mate of mine had his vehicle 
worked on by a reputable LR mechanic who told him that the flame trap 
had been marked incorrectly and that it was ineffective. Since 
turning this bit of plastic around the performance is apparantly much 
better. Mine is opposite to his!!! The trap is clearly marked - carb 
on one side and dist on the other. If you suck on the pipe marked 
Carb - you come up against the non return valve, however if you suck 
on the side marked Dist, you get all the air you need - hence - no 
air going to the Carb.

There are some very confused people around here who are desperate for 
some advice. Is the flame trap necessary at all???

Regards

Pete Kemp
110 V8 Defender '93

------------------------------

From: HalatGRM@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:35:39 -0500
Subject: Defenders

Stopped by the Rover dealership in Greenville, SC to have my cotton-pickin
abs light finally reset.  They have an interesting inventory:

8 Defender 90s selling for sticker
2 110s (~30k miles each) selling for more than original sticker
1 1958 Series 1

As much as I've enjoyed my disco, the Defender looks like more fun than
playing naked Twister with three playmates, four gallons of baby oil and a
Wagner Power Sprayer.

BTW, as I pulled out of the lot, I paused to wave furiously at the Series 1.
  ;-)

Hal

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 14:49:18 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Joke - no LR content

jve@phaseone.dk wrote:

> >>     OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY.  DIVERT YOUR COURSE NOW!
> >>#2.  This is a lighthouse.  It's your call.
> Great punch line. Could we now hear the joke?

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:26:35 +0100
Subject: Re: 2.25 Engine trouble

On Mar 5,  9:40am, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> Subject: Re: 2.25 Engine trouble
> If you've had the front end apart also, might I suggest that perhaps you've
> gotten the valve timing off? I did this on my 109's 2.25, but thankfully
> caught it before it got started.

Unfortunately, the front end has not been off. The timing chain was replaced
about half a year ago, and was correct at the time. I have difficulty
believing the chain should have slipped.

But, as I have complete faith in the superiority of LR engines...
   ... I will check it out :-)

Any other good ideas?

TK

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no	    Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:48:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Diesel overkill my ...

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, azw@aber.ac.uk wrote:
 2) cruise effortlessly along in the inside lane at 50 and let it all wash 
>past you. This is far SAFER than getting mixed up in the middle/outer lane 
>melee.

I don't know which parts of LA or Boston you've seen but the 'freeway' manners 
here are terrible.  What makes tooling along at 50 so dangerous is that people 
pass everywhere:  left, right, on the shoulder etc.  It doesn't seem to matter 
that there may be someone there going substantially slower.  That situation is 
created by the fact that many people never bother to look in their mirrors.  I 
bet to some people if you removed them it would take until they had to comb 
their hair to realize that they were missing.  Yeaterday, trying to drive 
properly, I cam apon someone going quite slow in the 'hammer' lane.  Everyone 
else was passing him on the right.   I waited until he had room and then flashed 
my lights (60w H4 and Rallye 2000)...he never noticed me!  Only when I finally 
gave up and passed on the right did he have any clue that anyone was behind him!

The local interstate here averages 70mph on a good day....even with the police 
present.  I was disabled on the road once in our '31 Buick and a State Trooper 
stopped to help.  While sitting in the cruiser and chatting about the Buick, he 
turned on the Radar setup.  Not once in 15 minutes did a car pass him doing less 
than 65 (speed limit 55)!

I've also done quite a bit of driving in Europe (not England though).  In 
Germany it always seems that the people who don't seem to know whats happening 
either have a rental car or US military plates.  We're spoiled in the US...we're 
used to having so much room that it doesn't matter how you drive. 

Ok, enough rambling.......

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:51:07 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel vs Petrol vs JT4

>Easton Trevor wrote:
>> :-) I'm thinking of installing a couple of Rolls Royce RB162 lift
>> engines in our SIII, It will get us out of many awkward situations!!!!
><   Of course an easier way to get air lift is to use an air jack!
Keeping the Sky Hooks in reserve,of course.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:55:54 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: 2.6L (was diesel vs petrol)

>Mike Rooth taunts:
>snip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Ha! Not getting sucked into that one.
>Tom Rowe
Oh....Rats! Foiled again,egad!

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Warns and clutch
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 9:57:08 EST

Treavor asked about binding Warn Hubs and pesky clutch hydraulics-

Re: Warns

First of all, how "hard" is "hard to turn" and how often is it hard to 
turn?  I have a set (in good working order) that are frequently "hard to 
turn" but this is due to poor alignment of the interlocking "gears" and 
a simple short roll (take the brake off first) is usually enough for it 
to slip in easily.  Sometimes it takes a little more than a short 
roll.....hop in and drive five feet.  I'd say I have to nudge Nige a few 
inches or so about every 3 out of 10 *hubs I lock* and have to hop in 
and go feet roughly every 1 in 10 locked hubs.  All this is to be 
expected.

But if they are binding, as in always tough to turn, then you do have a 
problem.  Assuming they aren't binding on the *outside* (hit any rocks 
with them lately?), and the teeth on both interlocking surfaces are OK, 
I'd suspect that maybe the many-little-rollers within are binding or the 
surfaces that the rollers ride upon are badly scored.  Either that or 
the threads that the moving bit (that moves in and out when you rotate 
the inner hub end cap piece) rides upon are buggered up.

Yank that end cap piece off and check it out.  Bits o'metal?  Surfaces 
on the interlocking gears look OK?  Once off, is the end cap inner piece 
still hard to turn?  If so, the problem is within the end cap piece for 
sure.  (If not, then either there is no problem or the gears aren't 
meshing properly.  Be certain that the gears are in proper working 
order-not buggered, not busted, not cracked.  "Replace and renew as 
neccessary.")  Assuming the problem is within the end cap you can strip, 
clean and inspect it.  Before you begin take note that the inner piece 
can go on in a few different ways (take note of how "deep" the inner 
piece seats when in the fully unlocked position).  Then dump out the 
rollers and remove the threaded "moving bit" simply by unscrewing it (it 
will rotate now that the pins have been removed).  Inspect the rolling 
pins and the surfaces that ride against the rolling pins; there should 
be no signs of scoring, rust, etc.  Clean and renew as neccessary.  If 
everything still looks OK at this point and the hub end cap inner piece 
still doesn't turn.....then you did hit a rock afterall and the edge of 
the end cap is mushed up against the rotating inner piece.  If so, it's 
really soft stuff and you can just go at it with a flathead screwdriver 
or a small chisel (don't bust it!).  A purist might suggest further 
disassembly and a dremel.

"Assembly is just the reversal of this procedure."  Be generous with the 
90 wt. and don't forget to lock them every so often to facilitate 
lubrication.  Lastly, note that it makes no difference whatsoever which 
of the eight possible ways you put the final end cap piece on (contrary 
to a previous suggestion).

Re: Clutch-

Things to check:

1) Got any pedal free-play?  Is the adjustment on the master cylinder 
pushrod OK?  Gotta be some play there or else the master cylinder will 
not be able to replenish itself with fresh fluid from the reservoir, or 
will do so only sparingly, and this could have resulted in an incomplete 
bleed.

2) I'm assuming you've done a proper bleed (and preferably bench bled 
your master cylinder before installation) and you have the master 
cylinder/pedal free play adjustment correct.  (hint hint-bleed it again 
if it wasn't)  There are no leaks, right?

3) On the slave cylinder......the pushrod adjustment is also OK?  And 
that spring there.......on the lever that the pushrod is on.....is it 
there?  If you have an early IIA or earlier there is a return spring on 
this lever (subsequently dropped on later models).  It is NOT necessary 
and it could be your problem.

Nigel once had this problem.  He had clutch, but only if pumped up 
quickly and it was rapidly lost.  The return spring was pulling the 
slave cylinder piston to TDC, which was far from the point of 
engagement.  In this case, the piston didn't engage the clutch until 
almost the 1/2 way point in total travel.  A PO had "corrected" the 
problem by installing the slave cylinder below the mounting bracket (and 
this was the boxed type bracket-and required complete removal of the 
entire linkage assembly just to get the slave cylinder out.....in 
December.)  The shaft coming out of the bell housing was subsequently 
verified to be in the proper postion (using the 11 mm ball trick behind 
the throwout collar), and the linkages were fine, so all I can figure is 
that the flywheel may have been skimmed a few too many times.  Removal 
of the spring corrected the problem and it has never returned.

hope this helps,
rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 09:22:22 -0600
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj@gw.startribune.com>
Subject:  D90 & Misc. ?'s

There is a D90 for sale. A guy here in Mpls is selling his '94 D90
(Conniston Green (which he lists as "British racing green"), "Lots of
extras" according to the ad) 14,000 miles, for $25,000. If anyone is
interested, I can email you his phone number. 

Now, to my questions:
1. I'm considering buying another soft top, so that when (if) summer
ever roles around, I won't be messing around with the Bestop
everytime it drizzles.... I assume the full surrey top would be the
best option. Anyone have experience with this? If so, A) how good is
it? B) what's a fair price? C) is it worth it, or should I be
comfortable enough driving with the windows zipped out of the bestop?

2. Are the speakers covered under warranty? My rear passenger side
speaker is blown, and I know it isn't because I've been blasting the
latest Metallica album... Anyway, the buzz can get to be quite
annoying (if you are parked, with the engine off, and there is no
wind -- about the only time you can hear the stereo! heh heh!!)

3. I've got some rust starting on the top bolts of the rear tire
mount gate. What's the best way to rid the evil red dust?

4. I was just reading the latest copy of Land Rover World, and
somewhere in there they mention a Range Rover that is "topless." Was
I hallucinating? A convert-Rangie? I bet that will be a pretty
penny/pound.

Now that my questions are out of the way, I thought I'd give another
snub update:
Yesterday, driving into Downtown Mpls, a green D90 was visible in my
rear view. I waited for him to catch up, made eye contact, and gave a
friendly wave. Again, a "what the hell are you lookin at" response
came my way. Must be all that "Minnesota Nice" you keep hearing
about! haha!!
Guess we minnisotans are smart enough to know how lucky we are to
have these vehicles...

Woman (to Winston Churchill): "You sir, are drunk."
Winston Churchill: "I may be drunk, but in the morning I'll be sober,
and you'll still be a bitch."

Bob K.                        
'95 D90 AA Yellow  #2721

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 15:29:50 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Diesel overkill my ...

ericz@cloud9.net wrote:
> Not once in 15 minutes did a car pass him doing less
> than 65 (speed limit 55)!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I've also done quite a bit of driving in Europe (not England though). 
>In England, where the Motorway speed limit is 70 mph, the police don't 
even bother you if you are not exceeding 80 mph. In rush hour traffic, 
when there is free flow, all three lanes travel at speeds between 70 and 
90 mph (this does not include the M25, which is more like a car park, 
and better suited to a Series Landy, which can actually pass everything 
in the (virtually unused) inside lane at a statley 50 mph). 

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 10:51:35 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: tailgate, Vel's steam

1. Will a series tailgate fit a Defender? Is there a genuine or an
aftermarket setup to get the tailgate to swing out rather then down?
Anybode got a tailgate fs?

2. Vel, clean everything in sight.  If the Customs do it for you, they'll
charge you $300, and keep it another day.  And if it's a Friday, you'll
have 3 days to kill around NJ :)   BTW, give me a call - I'll buy you
a beer.
Jan

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:01:54 GMT -0600
Subject: cv joints in a series LR

The latest (at least here in the US) LROI has a mention of fitting CV
joints to a series front axle. It's wording leads me to believe that 
they will fit the existing housing. Has anyone done this, or know the 
cost involved? I assume in requires a complete shaft replacement.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 11:00:39 EST
Subject: 2.25 Engine trouble

There are a couple things that have tripped me up before that you might want to
check. First make sure that the spark plug wires are in the correct order. The
distributor rotates counter clockwise, and several times people have placed the
wires on the cap thinking that it rotated clockwise. Also the engine rotates
twice for each turn of the distributor (compression and exhaust strokes), it may
be that you are trying to fire on the exhaust stroke. You can fix this by
swaping the wires with the one opposite it on the cap.

>> I've just completed a cylinderhead & valve replacement on my 5 main
bearing 2.25 petrol. I've also replaced the distrubutor.

The problem is that I need to advance the timing to about 20 degrees
BTDC in order to make it run. Also, as the engine warms up, it runs worse
and worse, sputtering and producing large puffs of black smoke. It also
needs a lot of throttle to run at all.

The valves are properly adjusted, the points gap is ok, the dwell angle
is just above 50 degrees, so everything looks OK. Except that it runs
very poorly!

I'm fresh out of ideas, folks! <<

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 05-Mar-1996

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:09:58 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: 2.25 Engine trouble

Email me your original post, I must have hit the delete key too soon. 
I've had some bizzare effects when fooling with timming so maybe I 
can help (no promises).

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:46:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Come alongs

-----
> I've used something like this too.  Unlike the 'Tirfor' winch Eric describes,
> the thing I used worked with chains and did not have a handle like a come
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> an opposite turning, slower, gear selected based on desired reduction. Like a
> come along, it would not slip back. The whole setup weighted a ton but, I think
> could pull a Patton tank out of a tar pit.

These are used in a lot of overhead lifting situations and are called a 
chainfall where I come from.  They come in all sizes and ratings and can 
get seriously heavy in the larger sizes, but are capable of lifting a Land 
Rover easily and safely.  Probably handier in the garage for pulling 
engines.

Ron 

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:46:54 -0500
Subject: Re: 2.25 Engine trouble

> >> I've just completed a cylinderhead & valve replacement on my 5 main
> bearing 2.25 petrol. I've also replaced the distrubutor.

> >> I've just completed a cylinderhead & valve replacement on my 5 main
Did you end up with one of the wierd vacuum retard distributors?

Ron 

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 17:11:58 
Subject: Joke again - no LR contents

Hi again all.

OK - I messed it up. Here it is:

Actual radio conversation released by the Chief of Naval Operations, 
October 10, 1995.
     
======================================================================
     
#1:  Please divert your course 15 degrees to the north to avoid a
     collision.
     
#2:  Recommend you divert YOUR course 15 degrees to the south to 
     avoid a collision.
     
#1:  This is the Captain of a U.S. Navy vessel.  I say again, divert
     your course.
     
#2:  No.  I say again, you divert YOUR course.
     
#1.  THIS IS THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER ENTERPRISE, WE ARE A LARGE WARSHIP 
     OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY.  DIVERT YOUR COURSE NOW!
     
#2.  This is a lighthouse.  It's your call.

Happy Rovering

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 sIII STW 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 17:34:03 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: tailgate, Vel's steam

Jan Ben wrote:
> Is there a genuine or an
> aftermarket setup to get the tailgate to swing out rather then down?

Take one safari rear door. Remove glass. Cut door down to required 
level. Fit upper hinge to door and rear body. Voila. Just what you want.

A little welding will be required, but it will be a simple and CHEAP job

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 17:44:53 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Come alongs

Ron Franklin wrote:

> These are used in a lot of overhead lifting situations and are called 
> a chainfall where I come from. 

Known in these islands as a Weston Chain Hoist. Probably the best and 
safest method of lifting heavy objects. The inherent "self braking" 
makes them simple and reliable. But for horizontal use they do not make 
much sense.
A good long length of heavy rope can be turned into a winch more 
effective than handcranking(!) by turning it into a "Spanish Windlass". 
Like many emergency measures it will be slow, but sure. Alternatively, 
if you also have a couple of turning blocks, it is possible to "swag" 
the rope, giving a tremendous multiplication of power. I just used this 
method to lift an engine out with a rope hoist which had insufficient 
power.

Now you all know what a Spanish Windlass is don't you?

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:13:58 -0500
From: Keith Elliott <kelliott@intranet.on.ca>
Subject: Old messages on the list?

Hi all....

   Is it just me or is everyone getting repeat messages from days before?
Today I have 
1/3 of the list from 03/01/96 to 03/03/96.... Me I don't know...
Oh yeah Dixon... The little beast is finally at home... Dying to put those
springs on!!!

Thanks
Bye

Keith Elliott
'61 SII 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:15:47 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: winch FAQ

  rvirzi@gte.com wrote:
 
> Tom-
snip
> You're putting together a file on winches.  I was hoping you'd be including
> hand powered setups (come-a-longs) in that effort as well.  So far I've
snip

I will, especially after seeing the recent interest in hand winches 
and their ilk.
I've been saving the recent postings and I have a fair amount of 
experience with them having done heavy construction and logging.
But I'm always open to more info.

For those interested in buying one, I'd look at construction supply 
houses. The ones you see in discount houses and hardware stores are 
usually not worth the effort of getting them, not to mention the 
money.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:29:04 -0500
Subject: Re: tailgate

Thanks for the info, (and making me sound the fool  (I was also the dry ice
clown ;-) ))
I think I'll probally have a custom gate fabricated.  I don't have a stock
rear crossmember...  What I have looks similar to a "military?" crossmember
(basically a 2x4 steel tube w/ attached bumperettes).  Somewhere in the past,
I think the previous owner did alot of "home shop rigging" with non-rover
parts.  (A good example are my checker plate crossarm patches, and astro-turf
bedliner..) The picture in the Rover's North catalog for a tailgate didn't
look like it would work with my application.  Plywood is out of the question,
so I think I'll use perforated aluminum and include tire/can mounts.  I'll
engineer something up....

Thanks again,
Chris Fisher '73 88 Series III
"yawning & light-headed, but cool"   8-)  ..... still learning about my
Rover......

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:34:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy Tapes

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
>I did not know that conversion could be done...or who would be able to do
>it...

Check your yellow pages under something like "video production services".  There 
are a few places around here that do it.  Really, all you need is a 
'multisystem' VCR and tap that into an NTSC VCR.  The pros, however, do this 
with much less loss of quality.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:32:09 -0500
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Wiper Blades

If I remember correctly, the wiper blades on my 107 are the same as on an=
 MGA (12 inches).  Of course on the taller then series 2+ windshields, there=
 is an uncleared area of about 4 inches at the top (right in my line of=
 vision).  Nasty in a heavy wet snow.

Doug Scott talked about his generic windshield washing system.  I used to=
 carry an dishwashing detergent bottle of windshield anti-freeze cleaning=
 fluid.  I'd just stick my arm out the window, lean forward, and give it a=
 squeeze.  Primitive, but no Lucas demons.

Steve Margolis
Ithaca, NY
 
1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!)
        serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:48:37 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: Tailgates (series related)

Chris, 

You said:

>I have a '73 Series III and was wondering what to do about a tailgate this
>summer when I take the top off.  My rear door is solid, so it has to be taken
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Chris Fisher
>'73 Land Rover 88 Series III

Mike Loiodice replied (in part):

>OK, OK... Assuming you have a Rover rear crossmember, if you were to get a
>real tailgate, you would also need the two latch-pins to secure it. You
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Expensive,. but it all works. However, if you are not planning on running
>under canvas, just get a piece of plywood and rig it up so it doesn't fall
>out. Paint a big Union Jack on it and Voila!, instant tailgate.

You got several other creative answers as well.  I too have a genuine (if
somewhat beat-up tailgate for this purpose.  You can occasionally find these
used, for perhaps $100.  If you have to buy them new, they are quite
expensive, from the ads I've seen.  Most 88s and 109 regulars (2-doors) have
the hinge brackets on the rear cross-member for the genuine tailgate.  The
genuine tailgate has big galvanized brackets that stick out the sides of the
top, each of which has a big round hole at its outer end.  This engages a
drop-pin toggle on a post that sticks out of the big triangular galvanized
reinforcement that is on the corner of your bodywork next to the door
opening (one on each side).  As Mike said, you used to have to replace each
of these panels with the suitable one that has the latch pin on it.  Now,
however, you don't have to go to this hassle because you can get the pins in
a form that has just a pin with threads on the ends so you can drill a hole
in the panel and put the pin in, held by a nut in the back.  Be very
important to keep them very tight so the drop-pins will stay in the right
position (use Locktite on the threads or locking nuts).

Another nifty arrangement, which I saw on Stephanie Cushing's (Seattle, WA)
Military 88 (which now has coil suspension).  This arrangement will work,
even if you have no hinge brackets on your rear cross-member.  It requires
that your rear door has three hinges (which I highly recommend anyway).  The
middle hinge is mounted about where the right-hand drop-pin latch would be
mounted.  You mount the left-hand part of two lower door hinges on the
right-hand edge of your tailgate, the upper one in place of the normal
tailgate latch bracket.  You can remove the normal hinge brackets from the
bottom of the tailgate as they are no longer functional.  Leave the
left-hand tailgate latch bracket in place on the tailgate and mount only
that one (left-hand) drop-pin latch on the body (as described above).
Voila!  A side-opening tailgate a la NAS D90, but at a much lower cost and
hassle and using all genuine Series parts!  This arrangement would be
mandated if you already have three hinges on your door.  This arrangement
could work quite well for a fabricated tailgate, too, including one made
from the lower portion of a rear door.

If you want to do the cheap arrangement with a piece of plywood for the
tailgate, you can use halves of gate hinges bolted to the plywood to mate to
the original rear cross-member hinge brackets.  The type of gate hinges I'm
talking about are available at farm supplies (and probably most hardware
stores as well) and are for mounting wooden gates to wooden posts.  The gate
end (the end you will use) is a long, heavy strap of steel, maybe 1-1/2"
wide and maybe 1/4" thick, with a rolled end that forms a loop.  The post
end is a lag-threaded bolt that has an "L" shaped end that drops into the
loop in the strap that mounts to the gate (this part, you can use as a tool
hook in your garage since you won't need it for this project).  

You mount the hinge straps on the plywood tailgate so that the loops on the
ends align along the sides of the existing holes in the cross-member
brackets.  Connect the hinge to the bracket with a suitable-sized bolt (I
don't remember what size this takes); leave sufficient space for a flat
washer between.  At the top, you can fabricate something that simulates the
stock eye and pin latches or simply use barrel bolt latches on the inside
edges of the tailboard (tailgate).

Or you can do as a PO of one of my Land-Rovers did and fabricate a tailgate
of steel diamondplate.  Ugh!  I've tried to sell this one with no success!

Cheers,

Granville Pool
Redwood Valley, CA
707-485-7220 home
gpool@pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 14:19:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: tailgate

Chris,

> Thanks for the info, (and making me sound the fool  (I was also the dry ice
> clown ;-) ))

    SO maybe if you block up the rear opening with a block of dry ice,
    and...

> I think the previous owner did alot of "home shop rigging" with non-rover
> parts.  (A good example are my checker plate crossarm patches, and astro-turf
> bedliner..) The picture in the Rover's North catalog for a tailgate didn't

    Astro-turf bedliner?!  Was Pres. Clinton the previous owner??? 
    (Obscure reference, sorry...)

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:32:49 -0500
From: jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé)
Subject: Discovery/Range Rover driving school(s) in Vermont

Hi everyone,

I would like to have any information(address, telephone#, past
experiences)regarding a Land Rover driving school(s) situated in the Vermont
area. If someone out there knows of other such schools in the New England
region, plus drop me a line. A friend (1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE) and I
(Discovery 1995) would like to enroll in such a course and try it out.

Thank you for any feedback.

Christian Tasse
St-Sauveur-des-Monts, Quebec, Canada
1995 Discovery

------------------------------

From: amaravil@copper.ucs.indiana.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:49:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Discovery/Range Rover driving school(s) in Vermont

May I suggest calling yur dealer.  Our dealer here in Chicago offer training 
and off roading lessons periodically throughout the year.  Not to mention it 
is a free service for their customers.  So, ask them.  Also they may be able 
to give you names of drving school that they recommend.
Best of luck,
John
'95 Discovery

>Hi everyone,
>I would like to have any information(address, telephone#, past
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>Christian Tasse
>St-Sauveur-des-Monts, Quebec, Canada
>1995 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:59:53 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Discovery/Range Rover driving school(s) in Vermont

You wrote: 

>>Hi everyone,
>>I would like to have any information(address, telephone#, past
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>>St-Sauveur-des-Monts, Quebec, Canada
>>1995 Discovery

Contact Rovers North,  tel 802-879-0032, Rt. 128 Westford, VT, 05494-9601

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 15:01:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Discovery/Range Rover driving school(s) in Vermont

Christian,

> I would like to have any information(address, telephone#, past
> experiences)regarding a Land Rover driving school(s) situated in the Vermont
> area. If someone out there knows of other such schools in the New England

    Gosh and golly, one of the hippest Land Rover driving schools in the
    country is sitting right there *in* Vermont!

    Call Rovers North at 802-879-0032

    Duncan, down here in Virginia where there aren't any cool schools....

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:38:22 -0800
Subject: Re: cv joints in a series LR

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> wrote:

>The latest (at least here in the US) LROI has a mention of fitting CV
>joints to a series front axle. It's wording leads me to believe that 
>they will fit the existing housing. Has anyone done this, or know the 
>cost involved? I assume in requires a complete shaft replacement.

Tom,

CV joints were fitted to the front axle of the Stage 1 vehicles.  These vehicles 
have the same front end as a SIII (swivel balls and all)  I'm not sure on the 
splines, though...a SIII parts manual will probably give you some info.  If  I 
understand correctly, CV joints off a RR or Defender will not fit because the 
half shafts are longer.
I looked into replacing one of my CV joints a few months back.  They are not 
cheap...something like $350 each!

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:38:26 -0800
Subject: Re: D90 & Misc. ?'s

On Tue, 05 Mar 1996, Robert Kolander <kolanrj@gw.startribune.com> wrote:

>4. I was just reading the latest copy of Land Rover World, and
>somewhere in there they mention a Range Rover that is "topless." Was
>I hallucinating? A convert-Rangie? I bet that will be a pretty
>penny/pound.

I went to an auction a few months back where one was for sale.  It was a two 
door model (gray market) with a blown engine and 135k miles on the clock.  It 
went for $5900 to some guy trying to impress his girlfriend.  Personally it 
wasn't worth more than $2000.  The convertible conversion was identified by a 
'TAG' logo on the rear gate and looked like it would leak like a seive....parts 
car material (or perhaps a trialler) if you ask me.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:51:34 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Wheel-mounted capstan

Matthew from ZA wrote about wheel capstans:

>Oho! Now this is serious series stuff!!!!

>A wheel mounted capstan, or "hub capstan winch" has got to be the most 
>agreeable mechanism for DIY, self reliant LRO's ever. It is a sort of slotted 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>The wheels will drive up the rope like a magic trick.
>Warn winch my leather ass!

Matthew - thanks a lot. Three more questions: 
If it is just a drum winch, although wheel mounted, why is it called a 
capstan? I always assumed a capstan winch was something that the cable is 
not actually attached to, but the capstan pulls on the cable by friction 
only and you have to hold on to the other end of the cable and control the 
winching by pulling and slacking off.
And: 
How do you keep from driving over the rope and creating a very interesting 
situation around your front halfshaft? Or do you just go far enough until 
the wheels start gripping again and then stop?
And:
Is this made/sold locally in ZA? Does it bolt on to the wheel bolts or to 
the hub?
So many questions... Thanks in advance
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:51:37 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Carb Cleaner

Mike asked:
>Does anyone know of a cleaning agent for cleaning the carburetor exterior and
>interior to make them look new?

Mike - Eastwood (I still think they are a US company, although I only get 
their UK catalogue) sell a Carburettor Cleaner, the Eastwood Carb Renew (a 
translucent dye that is fuel and additive resistant), as well as other stuff 
that is supposed to make your carb look better than new. No personal 
experience, though.
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 09:50:32 +1300
Subject: Re: tailgate, Vel's steam

David Olley wrote:
> Jan Ben wrote:
> > Is there a genuine or an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Take one safari rear door. Remove glass. Cut door down to required 
> level. Fit upper hinge to door and rear body. Voila. Just what you want.

Any reason you couldn't fit safari door hinges to a normal drop-down
tailgate?  I'm sure I've heard of people doing this and I can't think
of any reason it wouldn't work.  The top hinge of the tailgate could
then also be used as a middle third hinge if you wanted to swap back
to a safari door.

-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date:  Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:34:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  re:Camel Trophy Team Members 

Anybody know if this year's Camel Trophy is going to be carried on TSN this
year in Canada?

In message "Camel Trophy Team Members", KKelly6788@aol.com writes:

>The International Selections and driver training for the Camel Trophy was
>last week in Seville Spain.  The two U.S. Camel Trophy team members were
>chosen at the end of the week from the four finalists.  

-Christian
'72 SIII 88"
'95 Discovery
------------------------------

Christian Szpilfogel
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
chrisz@bnr.ca   Work: (613) 763-5713   FAX:  (613) 765-4855           
---------------------------------------------------------------
My Opinions are my own and you may borrow them, if you wish, 
but I want them back when you're done.
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 21:52:03 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: tailgate, Vel's steam

Hugh Grierson wrote:
> Any reason you couldn't fit safari door hinges to a normal drop-down
> tailgate? 

Not really, but the beauty of using the safari door is that all the 
ironmongery is in place except for an upper hinge, including the door 
latch/lock mechanism. Fitting this securely to the drop down tailgate 
takes a bit more engineering. The tailgates are not designed to be hung 
from the vertical edge, and are not braced properly for the resultant 
loads. They have to be the flimsiest construction on the vehicle and 
would not stand much abuse.
A spare wheel could be hung on the safari door conversion, however.
-- 
David Olley
........................................................................Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
........................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 16:04:21 -0600
From: William Owen <IB011CA@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us>
Subject:  Discovery/Range Rover driving school(s) in Vermont -Reply

I expect your referring to the Rovers North school.  I've heard excellent
things about them.  I don't have their number in front of me but they are
listed in Vermont information or someone on the list may have a RN
catalog close by.  
Sound's like fun.  Hope I get to go one day.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:07:59 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Uk highways, the diesel thread

Dear All,
        A person from the UK posted his viewpoint on the 2.25 diesel being
slow thread, not getting into that again, but...
        I have to agree with his take on UK highways. My last visit to the
UK found drivers to be much more aware of their roadways. Take lane
changing. The usual US practice is block the other guy at all costs, in the
UK I found that even in three lane situations people more right over! So I
will definately agree with his take that a UK roadway may be a better place
to be than a US roadway. We won't even get into a conversation about round
a bouts, or rotary's as we call them. I think the entire US would come to a
horn honking, gun shooting halt if we had half as many rotarys as they do.
So although I rather drive a Tdi, or a V8 on either roadway, I agree with
the rest, and can't wait to get back to the UK this June to visit the other
half of my family! The wife is a Brit. you know.
        See ya!

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 12:43:34 +1300
Subject: Re: Uk highways, the diesel thread

>         I have to agree with his take on UK highways. My last visit to the
> UK found drivers to be much more aware of their roadways. Take lane
> changing. The usual US practice is block the other guy at all costs,
[etc]

So we have posters from the US claiming that their country has the 
worst drivers, and those from the UK claiming that they do.  Ask just 
about anyone in NZ and they will claim that we do.  Interesting.
Does anyone think that their country has the best drivers?
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

From: David Scott Mary Ann <birddog@auburn.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Restoration
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 17:57:42 -0600

Tim, I am now in week 50 of my multi  series, restorations.  I am =
working simultaneously on a 67 88, and a 69 or 70 88,  and a 62 pickup.  =
The 67 88 had a great body but rusted out frame and some poor mechanics. =
 I now have the galv frame with new suspension, shocks, brake lines and =
exhaust on.  The engine, rebuilt is on, my rebuilt tranny is in a box =
beside it awaiting a new clutch, press plate which should be here this =
week and the tranny will go in this weekend,  A friend is redoing the =
bulkhead and having it galvinized.  Meanwhile I have taken the other 88 =
down to the frame.  I have derusted the frames reprimed it painted it  =
have started the brake lines.  I next will have to remove the bushings =
and replace.  Then go through the front end, replace the swivel balls =
etc, bearings, seals clean the  hubs and redo the brakes.  The engine =
and tranny for it is rebuilt as is the tranny waiting to go in I have =
stripped all the parts off the bulkhead and am stripping all the paint =
off now to repaint it,  The radiator cowl is stripped of all paint and I =
will have these repainted and ready in a couple of weeks.  The engine =
for the 109 pkup is sitting with all its parts fresh from the machine =
shop awaiting its reassembly.....you talking about a cash drain.  Did =
you buy a new bulkhead from england?  where, what kind of price did you =
get on suspension parts.  Enjoy the posting on your progress.  good =
luck.  birddog

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 19:10:13
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: JP4 and Diesels

	Now that winter has passed (for some of us) I have been thinking of 
fuel additives for next year's travails. Has anyone added JP4 to their diesel 
fuel to prevent 'clouding' or other winter doldrums. Since this stuff has to 
work in the stratosphere, it must have some great properties for us 
earthlubbers. I've heard of adding #1 kerosene to lower the cloud point but 
worry that it doesnt have as much bang-for-the-buck as reg'lr unadulterated 
diesel.
	Just pondering.

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:18:59 -0500
Subject: Drunk series user in a train

>Woman (to Winston Churchill): "You sir, are drunk."
>Winston Churchill: "I may be drunk, but in the morning I'll be sober,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Bob K.                        
>'95 D90 AA Yellow  #2721

 The essence is there but that version of the quote predates the use of that 
disparaging term in common parlance. Winnie spent a lot of time in Series 
vehicles, and an LROI article carried a classic photo of him with the earliest, 
so refining of his quote may be acceptable here. Legend has it that the 
encounter took place in a train compartment. On being accused of being drunk, 
his response was closer to:
"And you, madam, are ugly. What's more, in the morning I'll be sober"
Allan
St. Lucia
Graduate of Winston Churchill High School, Salisbury, Rhodesia.
>(And frequent returnee to Zimbabwe)
>Winston Churchill: "I may be drunk, but in the morning I'll be sober,
>and you'll still be a bitch."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:15:58 -0500
From: benedick@pa.net (Darwyn/Kris Benedict)
Subject: Re: Mutter, mutter

>I think someone made an error of judgement..........

Too bad, isn't it!

------------------------------

From: lbrooks@sunbelt.net
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 21:45:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Unsubscribing

I too am tired of all the talk about splitting, so I'm unsubscribing.  Just
carry on, soon you'll have no one left.

1993 110'
1961 88'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:41:44 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Chassis painting (NOTE LR content!!)

Steve whittereth:

>I had the misfortune to be able to have a good look inside my chassis
>last night.
Hmmm.Having had a similar misfortune a year or two ago...mine didnt
have mud inside,but paint.Black,I think.So they must have dipped them.
Or employed small mammals with painty fur to run about inside......
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: HMEdwards@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:43:08 -0500
Subject: Re: To steam or not to steam (clean)

Vel,

I brought a car back in the late 80's and the engine was also required to be
cleaned.  The sealing coat of oil will give it away as not having been done.
 The Department of Agriculture does not want any little bugs to get in.  They
will also do it for you, for a price!  Kind of like the UK with a 6 month
wait to get your pet out of pet jail.

Harry Edwards
Las Vegas
72 Series III 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:07:19 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Fuel pump (series)

Bonjour =E0 tous!

I still have some problems with Rudolph. A few days ago, I posted that it
wouldn't start. With some replys, (thanks to all of the authors, by the
way), I was able to "isolate" the problem. I will sum up the diagnosis:
1. The engine is a 2.25 petrol with Weber single barrel carb
2. Engine would only run for a second then would not start again
3. Fuel filter is fine
4. Sediment bowl is clean
5. Gas line from fuel filter to gas tank is not clogged
6. When I blow in the gasline going to the carb (after the filter) the air
7oesn't flow easily. (Is that normal?)
8. Engine runs if I add fuel directly into the carb.
9. When I operate manually the fuel pump no fuel comes out.
10. When I crank the engine no fuel comes out from the fuel pump
11. When I have the fuel pump on the bench and when I operate manually the
damn thing, there is some suction power at the inlet and some pressure at
the outlet.
But, that suction power and that outlet pressure does not seem to be very
strong.  

Could it be that there is some suction, but not enough to bring the fuel up
to the carb? How do I find out? What do I have to check or measure.

No, I will not install a 5 gallon plastic tank on top of the cab to have it
gravity-fed. It is not aerodynamic and the clour doesn't match.

Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Michel Bertrand

Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:24:34 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Fuel pump (series)

You wrote: 

snip
>11. When I have the fuel pump on the bench and when I operate manually the
>damn thing, there is some suction power at the inlet and some pressure at
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Any help would be very appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Michel Bertrand

So feed it from Jerry cans on a roof rack :)

More seriously, if you've got the assembly off anyway why not test it by 
running a fuel line into a bottle of liquid (water?) and seeing if it'll pump 
that.

However, if its not pumping when the engine is cranking it sound's like a 
rebuild (or new pump) is warranted.  If you end up with a new one note that 
they no longer use the glass sediment bowl.  You'll need to buy and inline 
filter too.

The position of the Land Rover pump is not a good one.  It basically has to 
draw fuel up rather than push it up.  It is consequently more sensitive the 
vacuum/pressure failures.  Maybe all you need is a new diaphram. Is the current 
pump tightly sealed around the old diaphragm?

Cheers,

Jeremy

'94 D90
'65 109SW

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:36:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Carb Cleaner

Eastwood Automotive does have a carb renew kit
part number 1302z Bronze
part number  1304z Silver
$ 8.95
1-800-345-1178

Rgds 
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:55:09 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Mutter, mutter

At 22:18 04.03.96 +0000, David Olley at New Concept wrote:

>Shhhhhh
>Isn't it quiet?

======================
Shhhhh.  Be vewy, vewy quiet.  We're hunting rabbits.  Hhhhhhhheh.

John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:55:32 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Uk highways, the diesel thread

At 18:07 05.03.96 -0500, Mike Smith wrote:
>a bouts, or rotary's as we call them. I think the entire US would come to a

Rotaries???  Not in my village.  We call them traffic circles.  Rare these.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 02:00:05 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: To steam or not to steam (clean)

Vel sez...

-I've got to steam clean my vehicle before I'm allowed to bring
-it into the US.
-
-I've found a place that will do the chassis for about 25 GBP (to get
-all that "nasty" English mud & grass from out of the crevices.) And I
-figure I'll waxoyl it when this is done.
-
-But what about the engine?  Should I have that steam cleaned?  It's
-all covered with a layer of oily muck, but if I have it removed, might
-that cause a bunch of leaks to spring up???  I figure all that muck
-is sealing the engine and keeping it from leaking like a sieve.  (It's

The steam cleaning is to remove any unwanted flora and fauna from the
vehicle before shipping it to the US. Whether or not you clean the engine
really depends on US Customs opinion of how clean it needs to be.

The muck isn't really keeping the engine from leaking... (heh,heh) but it
will help prevent salt corrosion. I had my car shipped to Turkey and back
when I was in the US military and I do remember having to clean things up a
bit after picking the car up.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 02:00:07 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Tailgates (series related)

David Olly replies...

>Tailgates should be easy to come by second hand.

Here in the US tailgates are a bit harder to find. If you have to actually
go out and buy one from a supplier like Rovers North the cost is around $350 US.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 02:00:09 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Tailgates (series related)

>> You have to knock the rivits out of the two triangular shaped trim pieces on
>> either side of the door and replace those pieces with the pieces with the
>> latch pins. 
-----------
>When I did this several years ago, Rovers North had just the pins 
>available, so you only had to drill two holes, carefully located, and install 
>the pins, leaving the plates there.
-

I was lucky enough to get a set of used plates and latch pins with my used
tailgate so I replaces the plate. If you actually had to buy the parts new,
what you described will work fine.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 02:00:11 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Carb Cleaner

Peter Hirsch sez...

>Mike - Eastwood (I still think they are a US company, although I only get 
>their UK catalogue) sell a Carburettor Cleaner, the Eastwood Carb Renew (a 
>translucent dye that is fuel and additive resistant), as well as other stuff 
>that is supposed to make your carb look better than new. No personal 
-

Eastwood is affiliated here in the US with Sears. The carb cleaner kit is a
spray can of cleaner and a spray can of "translucent dye" for $12.95. They
have silver and bronze. Phone number for orders is 800-557-3277. You should
get a catalog. Lots of neat toys! Guarenteed to make you drool!

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 02:00:13 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: JP4 and Diesels

Bill Adams asks...

>	Now that winter has passed (for some of us) I have been thinking of 
>fuel additives for next year's travails. Has anyone added JP4 to their diesel 
>fuel to prevent 'clouding' or other winter doldrums. Since this stuff has to 
>work in the stratosphere, it must have some great properties for us 
-

Youch! Do you get more speed with that jet fuel? :) 

I never went to that extreme with my diesel VW Rabbit (why bother...)
Instead, I go to the local "truck stop" and get the same anti-gel additives
they use in the big rigs. One bottle (usually used to treat about 200
gallons) will last me the entire winter. Here in the North-East US, the fuel
companies put anti-gel additives in the diesel fuel during the winter so
adding more in the car's fuel tank really isn't necessary... but when it
gets to -20F I would rather be safe than frozen solid!

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 22:58:59 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump (Series)

At 11:07 PM 3/5/96 -0500, Michel Bertrand <michelbe@login.net> wrote:
:9. When I operate manually the fuel pump no fuel comes out.
:10. When I crank the engine no fuel comes out from the fuel pump
:.....
:Any help would be very appreciated.

 Michel,

 Get yourself an electric fuel pump and bypass the mechanical one, if
 nothing else than to test the system.  Then decide if you need to
 rebuild/replace your mechanical pump or not.  The electric pump makes
 a good backup and can be used to siphon gas in a pinch.

 Cheers,

                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:31:58 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Uk highways, the diesel thread

>Does anyone think that their country has the best drivers?
>--
>Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz
Well,we all know we're better than anyone else,*really*.Its just
all these other idiots on the road........
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:58:57 +0000
Subject:       Re: carb cleaner

>Does anyone know of a cleaning agent for cleaning the carburetor exterior and
>interior to make them look new?

I once bought an aerosol of carb cleaner which worked brilliantly.  I 
looked at the ingredients and it was just xylene.  If you can get 
xylene or a similar solvent and work it in with a toothbrush it will 
do the job.
Peter
Series I 86"
Series III 109 safari  

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:07:18 +0000
Subject:       Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>. Assuming you have a Rover rear crossmember, if you were to get a
>real tailgate, you would also need the two latch-pins to secure it. You

Some(all?)  series III safari rear cross-members dont have the 
rings/bushes (What are they called?...) to slot the tailgate hinge 
into.  You could get some made and welded on then the tailgate would 
fit.  Alternatively, all replacement crossmembers have them.
Good luck
Peter
Series I 86"
Series III 109 safari 

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 74 lines 2805 [forwarded 248 whitespace 666]
 Output: lines 2116 [content 1207  forwarded 165 (cut  83) whitespace 614]

    Back
	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.