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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Grahame Hardin--smokey diesel?
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 8:53:45 BST

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> were given some workshop press, after all where else have you seen any
> assistance on our engines.
Hear hear! I actually wrote to LRO about this very thing,some weeks
ago.Afterthey chickened out on their S111 diesel and just "had it
done".Whether this made any difference I dont know,(nah).I dont think
they reckon Oily Wadders can read!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: LR on telly
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:02:45 +0100 (BST)

I have heard from my spies south of the border that Top Gear Programme
are filming at a well-known independent LR garage in Leicester today.
Apparently they will be comparing the service offered by independent &
franchised garages in the new run of the prog which must be starting
soon.
Watch out franchised garages!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date:     Wed, 6 Sep 95 6:56:14 EDT (1056Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Where is this voltage stabilizer?

David,

The voltage stabilizer is a 1 inch by 1/2 inch metal box that looks like a 
relay that mounts on the back of the speedo case under the dash.  It has a dual 
lug central post and single lug post on either end (at least on mine). From
what I can gather, they are only found on Series IIa and IIIs that have the
"cluster" gauges.  It is used to step down the voltage from 12-14 to 10.5+/-
volts.  Anything over that and the fuel and temp gauges read high.  A way I 
found to do a quick check without taking the dash apart is both the fuel and 
temp gauges will read higher at speed than at idle.  Further, if you are at 
idle and turn on the headlights and put on the brakes (to load the electrical 
system), *both* gauges will go down.  Remember, these are dampened gauges and 
need a little while to react.  I tried to get voltage out of mine, but didn't 
have the multimeter hooked up right or something (also I have a rat's nest for 
an underdash wiring harness and wasn't sure on the polarity of some 
connections).  Hope this helps.

Regards,

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:19:44 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Removing Disco's fan

To remove the viscous fan & assembly:

Find a good fitting open ended spanner, Weld it onto a steel bar, position this 
over the nut (LH thread). Now, you need to find an additional piece of steel bar 
(a 10 inch extension off a half inch drive socket set does very well), and use 
this to "lightly" whack the long spanner (which you place under tension). Don't 
try using a hammer or lump happer to do this, all the kinetic energy will be 
absorbed by the hammer and none of it will transfer onto the long spanner. A 
light bar (10" extension) will transfer the energy into the spanner, and 
eventually after about 20 or less "light whacks", the nut will magically come 
undone!

-- 
Gerald Tan    EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk

Usual Disclaimer-"These views are my own and not 
necessarily those of my employer".

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: jeeps,bash plates etc./
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:23:48 +1000 (EST)

Hi all,
Just wondering what is actually protected by a "Camel Trophy Bash Plate"?
When I had a Datsun 1600 rally car, bash plates were definately useful, 
but that thing had perhaps 1/3 of the diff clearance of my RR, and 
certainly much less body/running gear clearance. I use my RR offroad a 
lot, and there seem to be relatively few situations (none come to mind) 
where I can see that a bash plate would help anything at all....
I have the steering linkage protector as used on later RRs and a _BULL_ 
bar, but beyond that, the underside of the vehicle is exposed. It seems 
that if an obstacle is large/high enough to pose a threat to any 
important running gear parts, then it is probable that the vehicle will 
not be able to get over it far enough to cause damage. Those parts which 
are low down certainly cop a pounding... diff housings, steering 
protector etc, and those ..er.. end bits (rear bumper/exhaust and 
bullbar), but the remainder of the underside doesn't seem to contact too 
many solid objects. The chasis, engine, gearbox and underbody seem to 
largely be high enough to be out of harm's way (only a few areas of the 
chasis and radius arms/mounts seem to get hit). In short, if the bash 
plate 'protects' the underside of the engine and parts forward of the 
front diff, then my question is FROM WHAT? If you have a steering 
protector then I think that this will protect those important exposed 
parts, and beyond that, money may be better spent elsewhere....
Just my thoughts (my vehicle is USED offroad a lot, not necessarily 
always ABUSED, but sometimes perhaps).
BTW I have no problem with the idea of ABUSING Jeeps, they get in the way 
on boggy tracks!

I have replaced the battery in my RR a while back, as it struggled badly in 
the snow. I will dig up the details of the battery if anyone is interested.
Having used it through our winter so far, it performs well in cold and 
under load. It is actually a John Deere tractor battery, and I have 
details of a Caterpillar equivalent. Both are excellent quality from what 
I have seen, but I liked the screw in plugs of the former(cat has push in).
The good part is that the battery has a 1 year full replacement warranty 
with no questions, and beyond that a 5 year pro rata warranty for offroad 
use, and after the 5 years, a significant trade in value toward a 
replacement. The battery style is used in earth moving machines and is 
designed for high vibration- plates are anchored top and bottom, whereas 
in automotive batteries only at the top. Auto batteries around here have 
a 1year warranty in general. This battery cost me the equivalent of 1.5 
'cheap' heavy duty auto batts. or about the same as an expensive 
one(~150oz$). It is slightly larger in dimensions than the original, and 
only just fits in the space provided in a RR, but its capacity and 
warranty attracted me. Note that I have no interest in any battery 
company, just in happy starting in the cold. I'd certainly say that these 
types of battery are worth considering if anyone is having problems with 
capacity, or wants to use an electric winch with one battery alone(though 
this may still be taxing if used heavily).

Lastly, those ARC rules are interesting... does that mean that if I 
remove the EFI system from the 5.0 litre engine which I am building for 
my RR (it is based on a Leyland P76 4.4 L aluminium V8) that I would then 
compete on an equal footing with 3.5L engines? Crazy huh? classes should 
be engine capacity based IMHO.

seeya,
Brian.
(what do you others mean when you sign off with BT? It's my initials!)

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: V6 Landrover Mods
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 12:36:00 GMT

Trefor Delve
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

6th September 1995

FAO: Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6 (and proud of it!) or anyone else who 
knows.

Steve,

You sound like just the chap I need to talk to.  The reason ?, read on ....

After a 1957 ex-military Series 1 I am pondering the acquisition of  a 3 
litre V6 Series II.  However, I have a couple of things that I need 
resolved.

The Land Rover itself is in reasonable condition and from a friend of mine, 
so not too many problems there.  The question is regarding the speed of the 
things.

I will agree with you that there is sufficient power provided by the V6 to 
make driving easier (certaily compared to a 2 Litre Series 1), but unless 
the gearing is improved it seems to me that even at moderate speeds the 
engine will be spinning at quite a high rate for no real reason.  With the 
power of the unit being of the erder of 140 or so horsepower it seems a 
great waste.

The question is : How did you overcome this problem ?

Clearly and overdrive of some description is one option, maybe even opt for 
larger wheels and tyres.  But do you know anything about the diff ratios. 
 After all it must be a problem that was solved for the Range Rover.

Look forward to any comments.

Trefor.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Rovers at the Rovers
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 08:00:00 DST

Just a reminder about the Toronto Area Rover Club "Rovers at the Rovers" 
event . Saturday 16th September at 2.30pm Open to all, especially Rover and 
Land Rover Vehicles and enthusiasts. Car Show, Pictorial Treasure Hunt, 
Natter and Noggin, unique prizes for best Rover, Best Land Rover and 
Navigator. Door prizes courtesy of Land Rover Canada. Live entertainment by 
the St Johns Road House Band in the evening,  $15 car. See us at the Rovers 
Inn, North Service Road (just east of Fifty Road) Grimsby Ontario. Stay 
overnight locally then visit Bronte Provincial Park in Oakville for the 
Annual British Car Day (all marques) put on by The Toronto Truimph Club

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Half Shafts
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 08:13:00 DST

Fred Ellsworth writes for advice on half shaft replacement.
Per a recent thread and personal experience. The fracture of a half shaft 
imposes loads on the bolts retaining the ring gear that may cause them to 
fail later, sometimes much later.  While the axle is stripped to replace the 
halfshaft it is a good idea to replace these bolts and their locking tabs to 
avoid agro later (pieces of bolts coming throught axle casing! Maybe this is 
what happened to Todd?). Also, if you can, have the innner ends of the 
replacement half shafts shot peened. This will relieve surface stress 
raisers and make them stronger.

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:17:27 +0900
From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi)
Subject: 6th Japan Land Rover Club Meeting

  Hi All!!!
  
  *Information*
                         
        6th Japan Land Rover Club Meeting 's Information
                               up Date  06/9  (Japan Time)
          [ http://www.st.rim.or.jp/~gnome/rover.html]

  Regards,                       ^[$B@>!!=S0l^[(B

///   Shunichi Nishi   ///
^[$B!~^[(B  gnome@st.rim.or.jp  ^[$B!~^[(B

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Weber Carbs
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 13:43:00 GMT

Wednesday 6th September 1995

Johan

re. your query on Weber Carburettors.

Whilst I am not an absolute expert on Webers, I do have some experience in 
their use - enough at least to outline the basics.

The principle of the carb is simple - however, its setup is complicated.

First of all - the numbers
 -----------------------------------

The number refers to barrel diameter in mm.  The DCD is a twin choke and is 
really referred to as a 28/36 DCD; the 28 being the primary barrel diameter, 
36 being the secondary diameter.

With the 38 DGAS, the barrels are the same diameter: 38 mm.

Internals
 ------------

Components that affect the setup are Main jets, emulsion tubes, air 
correction jets, venturi sizes.  Consideration needs to be given to the idle 
jets although this is not really a perfomance issue.  The setup of the carb 
strictly speaking requires a dyno but I'm sure that there are people with a 
great deal of expertise in the setup.

The differences
 -----------------------

The difference between the carbs you have are in their application.  The 38 
DGAS is intented to be fitted to 6 cylinder engines with a manifold such 
that each barrel of the carb feeds 3 cylinders only.  In effect the DGAS 
consists of two separate carburettors with a common fuel supply and 
synchronised throttles.

The 28/36 DCD on the other hand may be fitted to 4 or 6 cylinder engines BUT 
the unit is intended to supply ALL of the cylinders.  The function of the 
two barrels is to provide a compomise between economy and performance.  As 
you quite rightly pointed out, the second choke only opens when the demand 
from the thottle is high.  In fact, the secondary choke does not open until 
the primary choke is 2/3 open.

The principle used to improve the economy with the DCD is directly related 
to the smaller barrel and hence smaller venturi.  With a smaller venturi, 
better fuel atomisation is obtained when the air flow through the carb is 
small.

Another difference between the carbs is the principle of the cold start 
operation.  With the DCD, the cold start device can effectively be 
considered as a separate carburettor.  With the DGAS there is a conventional 
choke at the top of each barrel.

Presumably, if there is someone who produces a manifold allowing this to be 
fitted to your SIII, then there should be someone who can set it up.

Hope that this helps in some way.

If anyone out there spots any problems in the above, please let me know as I 
am clearly misinformed.

Trefor.

tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

Date: Wed,  6 Sep 1995 08:59:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: RR Electrical Problems

Chris, I tried to send you mail yesterday and it bounced so I'm
submiting this to the list.
I would be interested in your diagrams for the 88 Range Rover but I need
to be able to correspond with you. I'd be glad to send you $5.00
Hope to hear from you soon.
Jon
 
The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
(being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
start a WWW home page just yet.
 
If there is enough interest ...
 
For a few people, I'm willing to mail them - if those people cover my 
costs (say $5 bill).  The diagrams are (close to) publication quality, 
and are normally 8 1/2" by 11".  There are about 9 sheets, plus indexes.  
I also keep a reduced-size set in the vehicle.
 

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 09:01:12 EST
Subject: Brush Bar, FWIW

We've questioned the utility and even the name of this item. 
 I have no delusion that the Genuine Parts item on the new 
Discovery is capable or even meant to impact a bull.  And 
having installed it myself, I realize it's not suited for 
nudging other vehicles out of their mired misery.  The 
projecting horizontal tube is also removable if you don't 
like it, but that is not obvious if the bar was installed by 
someone else.  (Mind you, if I was back in Fallon NV when 
the cattle drive was coming through town, I might nudge a 
bull aside while crawling down Maine Street.)

For me, the bar's main value may be in the fact that the 
bicycles of my two typically overenergetic, 
short-attention-spanned boys are stored directly in front of 
the new Discovery's spot in the garage, a location further 
narrowed by the spare Series "bulkhead" leaning against the 
wall there.  

That and the looks, of course.

Regards,
Hank

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 08:10:04 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re:winching setup help needed

Alan Richer asks about moounting a winch.
Alan,
What make is it?
I set up my Warn 8274 thusly:

1/0 red welding cable; it's more flexible because it has more strands, 
and since the electron's flow on the outside of the individual wire, 
you get more current flow (you think *you're* anal).
I got a dual cable battery clamp (like used on trucks with multible 
batteries) for the positive side. I got a grommet that fit the cable, 
drilled a hole to match the grommet in the side of the radiator 
housing  next to the battery tray, smeared the hole with NeverSeeze, 
and ran the cable thru it, out through the grill and to the winch 
solenoid. I think I used Amp cable, it's very resistant to abrasion, 
which is good for where it goes through the grill. It's been on for 
about 8-9 years and you can see just a touch of wear where it rides 
on the grill.

I got a battery shut-off to put in the circut but haven't gotten 
around to connecting it in, even though it's mounted. I'd use that 
rather than a fuse, probably cheaper.

For the ground I also used 1/0 cable (black). I attached it to the 
winch motor and then bolted it to the frame. Idealy, it should attach 
to the same point as the battery ground, if not the batery itself. 
but I didn't have a long enough piece.
I've never figured out why winch mfgs. put a smaller ground cable on 
since they have to carry the same current (less  some through the 
frame I suppose). I used 1/0 because the Warn will draw near  400 
amps at full load. I intalled a Delco 108 amp alternator at the same 
time. And a huge deep cycle battery (I extended the battery tray about 
2 1/2 inches.

I made a flat mounting plate and welded it to the back side of the 
bumper, cut a slot in the bumper and mounted my roller fairlead. This 
gets the winch a little lower, the lower the better when it comes to 
winching. This setup allows it to pull in the same plane as the 
frame. The drawback is that I have to pull out a bunch of the cable 
to use the hand crank, but I've only needed to do that once since I 
mounted the winch. There is just enough clearance on the 
SeriesIIA&III for the Warn winch. I can just get the cover down over 
it.

At the same time I got enough 1/0 cable and ran a new starter cable.

Hope this helps. If you can view .bmp files (or most any other 
graphic format) I'll e-mail you a UUEncoded drawing of the mounting.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 06 Sep 95 09:01:53 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc. (Fan/Weber/RR elec./oil level CU)

Re: Replacing the visous coupled fan

>I've bought a Kenlowe electric fan for the wife's TDi Disco and will be
>fitting this when I can get a free weekend.  The existing fan seems to
>be very tightly mounted to the waterpump spindle (I note from the
.....
>Any tips on shifting the bugger will be gratefully digested before I
>let my "chums" loose on it who are used to dealing with trucks and

After a few K miles, the stock viscous fan is viciously tight on the
waterpump.  In most cases the pump has to be removed and the impeller
immobilized (with the danger of breaking it, it's soft aluminum) in order
to get the thing off, and even then it's a hassle.  Watch out your chums
don't bugger the waterpump, they don't come cheap!

--------------------------------

Re: Weaber Carburetor

>I have a Ser IIIS with a Cevy 4.1, 6cyl engine conversion with a notoriously
>thirsty Rochester carburetor. I want to put a Weaber carburetor on but am in
....
>for use on this engine?. Does the fact that throats of the 36 open separately
>VS the throats of the 38 opening simultaneously have any bearing or can one
>offset the 38's throat gears so that they also open separately?. Which one

I asked someone who has done a lot of 'weird' engine swaps for LR owners,
and his simple answer was:  If it's a straight-six, use the 36 (better
mileage); for a V6, or any V-engine for that matter, you want the 38 w/
linked throttles, or you'll loose a lot of torque in low revs. As for jets,
he *assumes* that for an engine with a 4.1 displacement the regular jets
might be a bit whimpy. Just his opinion...   YMMV

-------------------------------

Re:     Re: RR Electrical Problems

>> The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically,
>> (being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
>> start a WWW home page just yet.

>How about zipping them and sending directly to interested parties as a
>UUEncoded attachment. Feel free to experiment with me, I'd be
>interested in seeing them.

That's right: zip&uuencode it, and send it on to  Todd Mills <tomills@du.edu>
for him to stash on the Web for those interested to retrieve. This is too
good to be languishing all alone on your drive...  (assuming Todd agrees).

----------------------------------------

Re: Lucas Strikes Again!

>In my continuing battles again Lucas the god of darkness, I seem to have lost
>the oil level control unit(PRC 5434) in my '90 RR. Actually this was made by

I understand your frustration, but for some mysterious reason this gadget,
even in England, home of Lucas, is priced @ GBP 168.71 rec. retail price.
So, it's not the dealer who is ripping you off... it's someone else.
(LUCAS... Prince of Darkness - or, indeed, Robber Baron?)

------------------------------------------

... above drivel was brought to you by

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 08:17:31 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re:  Where is this voltage stabilizer?

If you replace the stabilizer, supposedly they have to be mounted in 
the correct orientation to work properly.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 06 Sep 95 09:17:22 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Sighting in a movie

Another Range Rover sighting in a movie for the list...

That talking pig movie has a Range Rover in it.  Driven by the vet.  The right
rear of the vehicle is visible in a couple of shots.

BTW, that talking pig movie (Babe, I think it is called) was great... anyone who
is a Land Rover enthusiast would probably like the scenes on the 'greenlanes' in
the UK.  I highly recommend it.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: 06 Sep 95 09:23:31 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: No LR Owner should be without...

Over the past weekend, I disassembled the '56 fire tender... Took 4 hours from
complete vehicle to rolling chasses (It's nice to have done enough of these
things that I don't need to label everything and to already have cans labeled
for the parts!

Anyway, in this process, I used for the first time a product that no Land Rover
owner should be without.

It came grom Griots Garage, and it is a stuck nut/bolt remover that is the most
incredible stuff I have ever seen.  I was really thinking I had been snookered,
but this stuff is great.

It is not a penetrating oil, it is some kind of cryogen.  You spray about a 2
second squirt it on the stuck fastener and wait about 10 seconds.  Then put the
wrench on it and it will turn...  I found that a bit of WD$0 after getting it
turning made things easier.

Anyway, this stuff is about $10 a can, but a can would do about 10 Land Rovers.
You really don't use much.

It's a german product, called something like 'stuck fastener remover'.  If
anyone has a number for Griots, please post it.

Anyway, it's not often I find a product that makes removing rusty rover
fasteners  -- much less amazes me in the process -- so this has become an
indespensable part of my toolkit.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  6 Sep 95 10:17:42 EDT
Subject: Re:winching setup help needed

Hi, Tom.

it's the Bellview that was advertised here recently. it is coming with a roller 
fairlead
bumper, with all of the mounting doodads already done to it. This should make 
my life
wasier, as all I really need to do is to run the electricals into the cab and 
to the
battery.

I have a huge tractor battery on the old boy that's a relic of when he was a 
Diesel. This
oughta do it....but I need to do the extension trick with the battery box as 
you did. Rather
than modifying the present box, I will probably just weld up an angle-iron 
frame to hold
the bottom of the battery, rubber-coat this and bolt it to the present battery 
box.

I figure I should be all set, as I have the Diesel springs on the front of the 
109 already
to compensate for the added weight. Once he's finished - Zimbabwe, here I come!

      Alan

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:47:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

>Well, that was very nice of you. But, Not my point. I would probably also do
so do to the sad state of the farming community today. I thought you meant
by law you were responsible for the livstock. That would torque my nuts.
hehe. I am not a big lover of the government.

Actually, I was more moo'ved by the plight of the calf.  I didn't kill it.  I
just broke his back.  The poor guy was trying to get around with his front
legs, dragging his back pair.  I went off to find the rancher (and he was a
long way away) out of pity for the calf, not his pocketbook.

He was a nice guy, though.  I offered to turn in the claim with no
guarantees, and he offered me a garden hose to wash the **** of the bonnet.

Tony

PS: >do to the sad state of the farming community today.

I heard on the radio yesterday (PBS, no less), that the average farm income
today is 1000,000+.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:04:35 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re:winching setup help needed

Alan,
The reason I suggested a deep cycle battery is running a non-deep 
cycle low repeatedly will wipe it out in short order.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:10:51 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony

>So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as I
was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" value
than anything else.

Actually, I put one on the RR as a place to mount a winch, but it has become
very handy for many other things.  Example 1:  Off-road camping in Death
Valley.  Problem: no firewood.  Solution:  Outside the park and at higher
elevations there is an abundance of dry wood; from old shacks to dead trees.
 Lay out ropes tied to the bottom members and stack the wood on top.  Loop
the ropes through the top and hoist the fire wood up and tie it off.  You can
carry a prodigious amount of fuel (a week's worth) that way.  Example 2:
 Have you ever wondered what to do with your sodden floor mats after using a
self-serve spray car wash?  Just place them between the moo bar and the
grill.  They will naturally drain and be blown dry by the time you get home.
 Example 3:  What about those icy winter days?  Many times the moo bar has
been a butt-saver (mine) while walking around the car.  Example 4:  How do
you cure a fresh rattlesnake pelt?  On the moo bar, of course!  Example 5:
 ...and it really does save the front end while bush-wacking.

I could go on....   but the fact is that a moo bar is a very practical
option, not just for running 'roos.

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 11:19:31 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Translation, please

  
        I think it's terrific getting mail from all over the world - this 
        morning heard from Japan, South Africa and Australia.  Kind of makes the 
        world a smaller place.
        
        I do have one question though:
        
        Mike Rooth writes:
        
        >I suspect that this is the advertising industry,currentley hoist
        >bt its own dewberry-firkin,at least over here.
        
        I've heard of being hoist by your own petard, but what the hell is a 
        dewberry-firkin??!!
        
        If the answer can't be printed for all to see, please send it to my 
        e-mail address.  I am *really* curious...
        
        Regards to the whole Rover World,
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:52:20 -0400
From: sac4@cornell.edu (Stephen A. Church)
Subject: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)

I apologize for the lack of Land Rover content, but with an ag background,
I can't resist...

>PS: >do to the sad state of the farming community today.
>I heard on the radio yesterday (PBS, no less), that the average farm income
>today is 1000,000+.

My initial reaction to that figure was one of disbelief -- anything's
possible, I supppose; although upon putting my education and experience,
limited as it may be, to use (shocker, eh?), I assume that income in this
sense is gross income prior to expenses being taken out.  A lot of money
does pass through a farm's checking account with income from milk, grains,
etc., but the key word is through.  The cost of inputs for farms continues
to rise while the prices paid for farm output tends to stay fairly stable.
I know quite a few families involved in production agriculture, but not
many of them enjoy a net income anywhere near $1,000,000.  How often do you
hear about that city or suburban kid moving out to the country to pursue
his/her dream of getting rich behind the wheel of a John Deere (or
underneath a Holstein cow)?  Sure, there are probably wealthy farmers, but
it's a 24/7/365 job, and it's not easy money.  I'd rather see a farmer
driving around in a brand new Range Rover (or any other expen$ive vehicle)
than a professional athlete or a Hollywood star.  Yes, everyone has his or
her place in society, but where would that place be without food?

FWIW

Steve Church

P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Translation, please
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 16:58:27 BST

Ah yes,the Dewberry-Firkin.
Well, its an organic Petard,first invented by a Mr Dewberry
oh,about 1638,or thereabouts,on the 15th of August.The Firkin
being a barrel of Ale.Mr Dewberry(may his shadow ever be jointed
at the elbow) found at considerable personal risk,that such a
barrel,left under a wall,in the sun,during a siege,would not only
drive the besieged mad with thirst(thus making it one of the
earliest known weapons of psychological warfare),but would also
aid rapid fermentation.This resulted in the eventual explosion
of the Firkin,showering the besieged with over-fermented Ale,
splinters,and froth.The Ale woulD,if left long enough on the
castle walls,eat away at the mortar,thus weakening the structure.
The weapon is not as well known as it deserves to be,due to the
habit of the rude soldiery of the time of *drinking* the Ale
and replacing it with water,or worse.(I beleive the fermentation
rate of horse-pee is too slow to create a satifactory bang).
The soldiery saw no good reason to chuck good Ale at the enemy,
or,for that matter,bad Ale either,so they invented Gunpowder,
and chucked rocks instead.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 09:14:21 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: 87 RR, should I buy?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: 87 RR, should I buy?
I found a '87 RR for sale for $9500. It has 97,000 miles, rino bars
front/rear leather, new michelin tyres, CD player. They say it has no leaks
(must be out of fluids!) Never been off-road, they used it to tow a boat to
the lake.

Is this a good deal? What should I look for? What kind of milage can I
expect with a V8 petrol?

Please respond directly to me at  debrown@srp.gov  since I want to look at
it Today, and will most likely put a deposit on it if I like it.

Respond to:  debrown@srp.gov

Thanks!!!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:43:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Land Rover Books

I have a catalog from Classic Motorbooks, and was thinking of purchasing 
a few LR books. I find it quite hard to choose from the short 
descriptions and was hoping that some of you may have opinions on the 
ones that I am considering.

1) Brooklands Land Rover Serires II and IIa 1958-71 ... $16.95
2) Land Rover, by James Taylor                      ... $17.95
3) Land Rover, by Chris Bennett                     ... $15.95
4) Land Rover Restoration Tips + Techniques, by R.M. Clarke
                                                    ... $16.95
5) Land Rover Series I, II, III: Guide to Purchase and DIY
   Restoration, by Lindsay Porter                   ... $34.95
6) Land Rover: The Unbeatable 4x4 (4th ed.), by
   K. & J. Slavin and G.N. Mackie                   ... $39.95

Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I can't buy them all, and 
$40US is alot for a book!

Thanks,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 09:55:14 -0700
From: Alan.Lancendorfer@Eng.Sun.COM (Alan Lancendorfer)
Subject: Re: Wenching, er, winching setup help needed

I have a Bellview on my '66 109 (it came installed by a dealer) and it is
powered through a Ford type starter solenoid engaged by a switch mounted
on the dash.  There is a panel with this switch, the clutch engaging
cable interface and the brake for the winch.  The cables that connect to
these mechanical interfaces are like large lawn mower cables and the 
wire from the battery to the solenoid and up to the winch are standard
6Volt size battery cable.
A.L.
>From LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com Tue Sep  5 19:44 PDT 1995
>Precedence: 	bulk
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>under the hood.... please bring a bit of sanity into my life.
>   Alan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:04:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Roverworks Lawsuit?

Pierce,

I for one, have had an order from Roverworks since Sept. 7 of last year.  
After many empty promises, non-returned phone calls, and a SUBSTANTIAL 
chunk of my change, I too am considering hiring an attorney and making 
the flight out to Hyde Park.

If you do find out who these people are, PLEASE let me know either via 
the list, or feel free to call me at home  (503) 760-4798.

Alas, they promise the moon at Roverworks, but even getting a reciept for 
my last cashiers check was worse than pulling teeth.  I would advise 
anyone to STEER CLEAR of these folks.  If anyone would like to talk in 
person more about my, or others situation with Roverworks, please feel 
free to do so.

Sigh, and I just sold my '88 IIa.  :(

Rover-less and penniless,

Michael

slade@teleport.COM  Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: British Car Meet
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 10:26:04 PDT

H:i,

I am going to be at the Palo Alto british car (and truck I guess) meet on
Sunday, Is any else going to go? I live in an apartment across the street
from Stanford University, so I am real close to the event. I wonder if
I am allowed to park in the grounds since I have a Defender? I guess I 
should clean it up and give it a good wax job before... (Its still dirty
from the Labor Day Mendicino trip).

If anyone is going, let me know maybe we can meet at a specified place/time.

Leland Roys
1994 Def-90 (Red, With some dirt)
roys@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: wanted and for sale
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 13:56:46 -0400 (EDT)

Wanted:

My IIA 109 has most of a capstan winch on it. I'd really like to get it 
working. Are there any people with capstan winch parts or whole that they 
would like to sell? I'm primarily looking for the parts which connect it 
to the starter dog. I'm in the Washington, DC, USA area, but have no 
problems with shipping.

For Sale:

109 hoop set. I believe that it's basically complete with windscreen and 
door pieces, but I've only had the car since May and haven't tried the 
soft top (it didn't come with one). US$ 150 + shipping.

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:48:01 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: wiring diagrams

When I tried to contact Chris directly, I received this:

      Connected to Clyde.Concordia.CA:
      >>> RCPT To:<haslam@concordia.ca>
      <<< 550 <haslam@concordia.ca>... User unknown
      550 <haslam@concordia.ca>... User unknown

I would definitely be interested in your wiring diagrams for the '88 RR, 
zipped/emailed or printed/snailed.

-Matt

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 10:57:25 PDT

I think that is Networth. It is really easy to get 1000000
in assets with a farm which has been in the family for 
20 to 100 years.
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
> Steve Church
> P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 1995 11:30:37 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: British Car Meet

 Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> writes:

>I am going to be at the Palo Alto british car (and truck I guess) meet on
>Sunday, Is any else going to go? I live in an apartment across the street
>from Stanford University, so I am real close to the event.

 How con-veen-ient!

>I wonder if
>I am allowed to park in the grounds since I have a Defender?

 Allowed???  You MUST park in the grounds.

>I guess I 
>should clean it up and give it a good wax job before... (Its still dirty
>from the Labor Day Mendicino trip).

 Nah, not necessary.  You might want to wash & wax the right half though,
 and leave the left as is...  just to show the contrast in the many uses
 such a robust vehicle has :)  [Or show up dirty in the AM, then leave on a
 short break and come back all nice and tidy.]

>If anyone is going, let me know maybe we can meet at a specified place/time.

 OK! Sept. 10, 1995 at 09:00 hours at the Palo Alto All-British Meet concourse
 grounds, east side of El Camino Real across from the Stanford Shopping Center.
 Lunch at Una-Mas Mexican Restaurant, south-easterly side of the Stanford
 Shopping Center, 12:30 hours --everyone to wear an obnoxious Rover or
 British hat, Aussie fedoras recommended with Kiwi feathers, or full Rover
 battle dress (overalls?).  Seating at outdoor tables on south side of
 restaurant, group photo with Dos-Equis etc. in hand at 13:00 hours --copy to
 be posted to Web page. [Alternatives solicited.]

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Books
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 12:45:24 -0600 (MDT)

Rob Bailey asks about LR books.  Here are a few annotations:

< 1) Brooklands Land Rover Serires II and IIa 1958-71 ... $16.95
The Brooklands series of books are a compilation of b&w reprints of contemporary 
automotive magazine articles, presented in chronological order, which gives 
something of a sense of the evolution of any particular model.  Some of the 
reprints are sharp, others leave something to be desired in quality.

< 2) Land Rover, by James Taylor                      ... $17.95
James Taylor knows his stuff, one of the best, lots of short and succinct factoids.

< 3) Land Rover, by Chris Bennett                     ... $15.95
A very pretty coffee table book of superb colour photos, with quite a few of special 
models and variants.  A minor drawback of this book is that all the photos were 
shot for this edition (the oddball vehicles being museum pieces), and almost all 
in England, which implies a certain lack of depth.

< 4) Land Rover Restoration Tips + Techniques, by R.M. Clarke
<                                                     ... $16.95
Haven't seen this one.

< 5) Land Rover Series I, II, III: Guide to Purchase and DIY
<    Restoration, by Lindsay Porter                   ... $34.95
This is a step-by-step guide, heavy on b&w photos and short on text.  I'm no expert, 
but it struck me as lacking in some areas of restoration and glossing over others.

< 6) Land Rover: The Unbeatable 4x4 (4th ed.), by
<    K. & J. Slavin and G.N. Mackie                   ... $39.95
This used to be the Land Rover lover's bible, but, as Robin Craig has noted, each 
successive edition has been more of a sloppy cut-and-paste job.  Still, no Land 
Rover library should be without at least one edition.

If you live near a large progressive bookstore (like Barnes & Noble), you should 
be able to find at least a couple of these titles, and judge for yourself.
Happy reading.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 16:44:09 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Dewberry Firkin

        
        Mike Rooth:
        
        I stand in awe of both your historical perspective and your ability to 
        tell a great story.
        
        Your reply provided a bright spot to an otherwise gloomy day...
        
        Regards,
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed,  6 Sep 1995 16:47:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: RR Electrical Problems

Chris Haslam wrote a note to the list about wiring diagrams and I tried
to reply but the message bounced as undliverable.
I would be interested in the wiring diagrams if I could get in touch with him.
Is  there another address we can send email?
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 05:31:47 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Movie sighting

Another one to add to the list - 

Marked For Death with Steven Seagull has a couple of
good shots of a 109 SIII Safari in Jamaica, it is
RHD, a SIII grille but no heater intake in the LH wing.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 18:53:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Magnet <magnet@io.org>
Subject: 93 RR Idle Adj?

I certainly would appreciate it if some kind and knowledgeable
person (or someone with access to the relevant info!) could
clue me in as to where the idle speed adjustment is on a '93
Range Rover 4.2 litre V8.  The Haynes book I have only covers
up to 1989, and at that time it was apparently on the air
bypass valve at the back of the EFI air plenum.  I've looked
at that as best I can without getting a mirror in there, and
don't see anything that looks like an adjustment.

O for the happy days when you just twiddled the throttle
stop! :-)

                                Cheers,
                                       -- Bill

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bill Daddis -- Aurora, Ontario, Canada -- magnet@io.org
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: Solihul@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 18:56:55 -0400
Subject: Engine swaps; info needed Pinzgauer Power?

I have several good VW D24s as found over here under the hood of some Volvos
and I'm pretty happy with the one in my 765TD. I'd like to know if anyone has
experience swapping these into series LRs and if anyone knows of a conversion
gearset to get rid of the gilmer belt. I believe the pinzgauers use this
engine also. These engines are plentiful here because they're misunderstood
and poorly maintained. Normally aspirated makes about 90 hp, turbo pushes
about 125. BTW, don't the Range Rovers use a ZF automatic, too? If so, a
turbo diesel RR  could be put together with bits from a Volvo TD automatic.
Hmmm. Thanks in advance. Y'all come see us anytime except during the
olympics, we're hoping to be out of state. John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 08:47:57 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony

At 11:51 AM 5/09/95 TZ, you wrote:

<SNIP>
>So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as 
>I was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" 
>value than anything else. Especially considering how it's mounted to 
>the frame. I certainly wouldn't try "nudging" with it as it's name implies.

We have great fun at traffic lights.  If you're ever in Adelaide (Yeah, Yeah
I know....get real....:-) and you see two Series IIA's Ex-Military "Nudging"
each other backwards and forwards until the lights go green you can be sure
one of them is us.

As long as the other vehicle has bumperettes and you have a nice solid
bush/bull/cow/deer/roo/elk bar there are great things you can do with your
vehicles.  You should see the look on peoples faces in other cars when they
look out and one vehicle purposesly "nudges" the other one who immediately
reverses back and "nudges" him.  The battle of the Landies <Gladiator
Landies>....!!

Childish huh!   :-)  (Who Cares!!)

TTFN

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 19:25:53 -0400
Subject: Re: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)

>P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

NPR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 07:56:17 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: re:Brush/bull bar testimony

Another use along the same lines is for "nudging"
other vehicles out of the way when their inconsiderate
owners park so close that you can't move your vehicle.

Haven't done it myself but I have seen it done by a
friend when hemmed in by a small car whose owner
obviously did not realise that a 109 does not come
equipped with a turning circle.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 08:58:11 +0900
From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi)
Subject: I'm SORRY!

Dear Dixon and All !!

I apologize to my careless. 
I used "LR logo" my own way. Sorry!
Now 
I removed "LR logo" <body background>.
   will take care from now !!

Regars,

///   Shunichi Nishi   ///
^[$B!~^[(B  gnome@st.rim.or.jp  ^[$B!~^[(B

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:28:30 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...
>   aj"Mooooove over..."r
Well, I'll tell ya. atleast I am Getting the meat, not the rancher!
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:54:08 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Free range

My "free range" story comes from Tunisia back when I was in the Peace Corps. 
We were driving back to basecamp late at night, doing about 80 kph (*light 
speed* in Tunisia!) when we crested a hill and were confronted by a virtual 
sea of eyes glaring back at us.  Before the driver could get on the binders, 
we were playing pinball with a flock of sheep and ended up taking a few out. 
(Apparently in Tunisia, the highways have the best grazing.)  No damage to 
the 88, but the shepherd comes out of the darkness ranting in Berber and/or 
Arabic.  Though fluent in Arabic, none of us could make out a sylable, 
except that he was hoppin' mad.  Anyway, the wallets come out, some dinars 
were passed and he shut up real quick.  Talk about having your cake *and* 
eating it, too.  He got: the wool, the hide, the meat and the money.  Come 
to think of it, maybe it was a routine scam....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:53:59 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhausting ideas

Alan Richer had an idea...about using a larger diameter pipe to deflect 
exhaust heat.  My rice rocket PU had just such a setup, but after a while, 
it began rattling something fierce and I cut off the offending outside pipe. 
Didn't seem to make much difference in heat.... Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 23:11:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Disco Abuse

I would like to second Tom Rowe's response to Brian concerning the urge to 
abuse disco's. I am sure the ads we have all seen of a disco flying through deep 
mud and frog-leaping moguls brings out our deepest urges to strain our machines 
to their ultimate limits and thereby increase our macho status, but, that is not a 
realistic approach to responsible off-roading.

Tearing up the soil unnecessarily will not endear us to the managers of public 
lands we use. Flailing our machines against the environment for no other purpose 
than to see what parts will or will not break is disrespectful of the vehicles we 
love. I hope the new generation of Discovery and Range Rover owners realize 
that the true value of their vehicle is how long it lasts in good condition while 
carrying you over terrain in style and with respect.

I recently told of my trip to Colorado and how I spent a lot of time in the higher 
elevations, and how I did not see a Rover of any description during the whole 
three weeks. That was probably just as well, for if any of the more energetic 
Rover owners were behind me, you would have been frustrated. I drove slowly, 
respectful of the environment and the priceless Series III I was in. It has 214,000 
miles on it with many original components. Ask yourself, when the current 
Discovery's are twenty-three years old, will they be able to traverse the rockies 
at 13,000 feet with grace, style and dependability? I sure hope they never stop 
making parts for the Series Rovers, I don't think I could bear to drive a padded 
Disco or Rangie. To quote something I read in John Muir's book about 
Volkswagen maintenance ( The Compleat Idiot Guide), "Come to kindly terms 
with your Ass, for it bears you."

Walt Pokines

Tipp City, Ohio

60' Ser II,  66' Ser IIA,  2-72' Ser III's
55 REO (Land Rover Support Vehicle)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:55:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Disco Abuse

Here, here!

John
'95 5spd Discovery
Tread Lightly, Participating Member
San Francisco, California

On Wed, 6 Sep 1995 ecoethic@rcinet.com wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> I would like to second Tom Rowe's response to Brian concerning the urge to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
> 60' Ser II,  66' Ser IIA,  2-72' Ser III's
> 55 REO (Land Rover Support Vehicle)

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: Free range
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 22:01:41 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> Alexander P. Grice writes:

> My "free range" story comes from Tunisia back when I was in the Peace Corps. 
> We were driving back to basecamp late at night, doing about 80 kph (*light 
> speed* in Tunisia!) when we crested a hill and were confronted by a virtual 
> sea of eyes glaring back at us.  Before the driver could get on the binders, 
> we were playing pinball with a flock of sheep and ended up taking a few out. 

> He got: the wool, the hide, the meat and the money.  Come 
> to think of it, maybe it was a routine scam....

Don't know about Tunisia, but in Panama one did very well to avoid driving
at night for this very reason.  The old/sick/lame horses and cattle were
often put out on the Pan American Highway for a quick sale to the
unwary driver.  I recall catching sight of an old tethered horse, in my 
headlights and and those of an oncoming truck, out in the highway with a 
crowd of onlookers at the side of the road.  Of course, I almost hit some 
horses on the highway on the outskirts of Austin, Nevada, but at least 
that was open range.  In both cases I quickly found a place to spend the 
night.

Walt Swain

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 01:23:49 -0400
Subject: Re: LROA/NA General Meeting

The LROA meeting is scheduled for Sunday, September 17, 1995, and will be
held at the Best Western Inn, Pitt Rd.,  Dixon, CA, at 11:00 a.m. in the
Conference Room.

RSVP's will be appreciated.

Cheers,

Sue Bernard, LROA/NA
BobandSueB@aol.com

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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.