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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Overland trip - companion wanted
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 11:30:29 BST

Please excuse the blatant advertising going on here, but I 
reckon there must be people out there who are interested or
know someome who would be interested in this.  

We're looking for one more person to join our gang of 5
for a six-month overland trip from the UK to South Africa 
starting in October of this year.

Presently we have 5 group members (3 men and 2 women), 
2 Landrovers, a small pile of equipment and some idea 
which way we want to travel - probably through Eastern 
Europe and then down the Eastern side of Africa.

If you're interested, or know anyone else who would be, then
email me or 'phone me on 01509 238410 (UK number) and we can
talk further.

Our requirements are that you/they be reasonably fit and 
healthy, and have something to offer the group as a
whole (a sense of humour, for example!!).  This isn't
a package tour so everyone will be expected to muck in 
with the organisation, planning and execution of the
trip.

The total cost of the trip will be about 3000 UKP per
person, worst case, which provides an equal stake in 
everything we will spend on the trip.  Please note that 
people don't need to be Landrover types - they'll learn 
all they need to know on the way :-)
 
All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 95 07:01:20 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygenated Fuels?)

          
Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping 
constantly.  Any suggestions for a repair for a steady drip type leak or am I 
necessarily looking at a replacement tank?  Leak seems to be a few inches aft of
the drain plug -- more than a weep, less than a stream, a drop every few 
seconds.

Thanks,
Hank

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> and in some vehicles it is only the rust that stops you seeing into the 
> tank! Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:10:59 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: The Prince of Darkness, Forever (Lucus IV?)

Greetings fellow sufferers of the curse of uncle Joe.

As my Dynamo on my IIa diesel packed up about a month ago, I have been
searching for all the bits req'd for an alternator upgrade (mostly the
bracket).  Having assembled the hardware this weekend, I launched into the
project.

Simple eh, just bolt off old bracket, bolt on new bracket, wire it up,
patch 'round the control box, et Voil=E0!

We've had two weeks of sunshine and searing heat in Cambridge, so the late
evenings and warmth would make work pleasant.

I started Sunday midday with a steam-clean, but first the radiator panel.
=46rom the outset he prognosis did not look good. The first forboding sign
was the attention the PO had paid to detail. He had replaced EVERY one of
the 13 nuts/bolts holding in the front panel with Nylok Nuts!  For anyone
who loathes the removal of the radiator as much as I, this is salt in the
wound.  And he'd made sure they were all there, all 13, does ANYBODY use
all 13 bolts? Arghhh. The only detail he missed was using bullet connectors
when re-wiring, so I had to cut through a lot of the wiring harness to get
the panel free. Not the three hour job I'd thought it would be, this...

On to the cleaning, and off with the fan, etc.  Funny, the crank pully
looks odd.  Someone had WELDED the pully/flywheel to the center sleeve (or
tried and been foiled by the rubber insert.  It was loose on the crank.
Bad start. In order to remove the dynamo bracket, the pully must come
forward or out. Now those who've pulled them know, it's crucial to get the
crank key on the UPPER face of the crank before pulling, or the dreaded
'clink' will make you all too aware that the timing cover must come off.
The weld confused the issue and I was unsure where the keyway was in the
pully, but I thought I was right. Clink.

Arghhhhhhh.

The timing cover had to come off.  So it did... and the sunny weather of
two weeks time decided to break.  It began to rain.

Under cover of closed bonnet, I banged my head for two more hours,
removing/replacing the timing cover twice more as the key would not stay in
place upon reassembly (even right-side up).  I finally hit it with a
hammer. This worked.

And the evening and the morning were the first day.

The job has gone much like this for two more days now.  The rain got
sufficient water in the sump before I could cover up to justify and oil
change... and the third replcement of the timing cover predictably damaged
the sump gasket... so that's the next job.

The alternator I'd procured was shot and was actually _consuming_ 2.5 amps
on connection, so I had to get a recon unit. The wiring was a little untidy
as well... but press on I did.

It was finally reassembled (though I broke the horn connectors I'd fixed
last week), the wiring reversed to negative earth, and water poured into
the radiator. Ta-dah!?

On startup we got voltage... and amperes... and no charge light. Was it a
miracle? No. My favorite Land-Rover rule came into play. Never fix
something... something else will break.  It began as a fine mist: from the
residual damp on the engine or the screen-wash bottle, I thought?  No, it
was one... nay two pinhole leaks in the front of the radiator pissing water
all over my feet.  Like small water pistols they pumped away. This job was
not meant to be.

Well it's charging, at least, and I did drive it home, but now I'm charging
around looking for new radiator... albeit with some trepidation... what's
going to be next?

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:11:02 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Dynamo->Alternator swap

The techincal side of my swap produced some genuine questions.  For those
who have gone before me:

A) Did we ever put together a wiring diagram for patching around the control box
   when swapping over?  I merged Series II and III diagrams from Haynes. This
   should be confirmed, discussed, or agreed and put in the Tech. FAQ.

B) What provides feedback to the Lucas 16-ACR alternator? the warning-light
   connection? Just curious what prevents over charging here.

C) What is the correct way to wire the Ammeter for an alternator. I've been
told
   (and now seen for myself) that an alternator will give full deflection on the
   ammeter during the first few minutes of operation, and then settle down to
   the correct level. I was told this was due to the rectification used in
   alternators vs. dynamos. I don't believe it.  I'm still getting a reading of
   about 15-20 amps even after running it for 1/2 hour. The battery shouldn't be
   needing THAT much topping up?

D) Looking at the diagram, I tried to work out what needed swapping for the
   negative earth conversion.  All motors (starter, windscreen wipers) are
   dual-coil type, so they run the same way regardless of polarity. Only the
   ammeter and fuel guage remain polarity dependant... or so I thought. The
   ammeter works either way so I would ignore the direction, I rewired the fuel
   guage. Much to my surprise, the ammeter reads the same direction as before
   with no changes and the fuel guage read backwards _after_ the swap. Any
   ideas? What am I missing here?  It must be obvious.

Anyone want to collaborate on a tech-help document with wiring diagram for
this little job?

Ideas and comments invited.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Overland trip - companion wanted
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 13:36:32 BST

In my haste I neglected to include my email address;

A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

Cheers,

Andy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 10:21:39 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: BLOW-BY BLUES

So I'm on my way to visit fellow Rover owner Nate Dunsmore and I lose
power...not completely mind you...just enough to make going up a small hill
a real effort. Nate showed me the "poor man's compression check" where you
remove a plug wire at a time and find out which cylinder is not doing the
work. Sure enough, numbers 2 and 3 were doing nothing. Zilch. I limped home
running on two cylinders and took off the head, discovering a complete
blow-by in the gasket between 2 and 3 as well as a smaller gap between 1
and 2. I am ordering head gasket today but wonder: what causes the gasket
to blow like this? I don't want it to happen again.

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@WellsFargo.COM>
Subject: Electronic Oil Leaks
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 17:01:00 PDT

On June 28th "-Peter C. Parsons, " said:

>>p.s.    Q: Why don't the British make computers?
>>        A:  because they cannot figure out how to make them leak oil.... 
:-)

Well ya got it wrong I'm afraid Peter.  They do build what passes for a 
computer.  Amstrad builds an assortment of such devices...they were even 
sold in the US by Sears about ten to twelve years ago.  And they don't need 
to leak oil...they can lose data.  Only problem is that when you move the 
machine you can't find the missing data underneath. 8-D.

Gerry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 10:44 EST
From: Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com>
Subject: Range Rover missing/hesitation problems?

Anyone have a solution to a missing/hesitation problem in a 90 Range Rover 
(3.9L)?  Occasionally the car misses badly on acceleration (or constant speed) 
but the problem always corrects itself.  No codes pop on the dash so I donUt 
think itUs EFI related, and IUve run through several cans of Techron to clean 
out the injectors.

Also, where can I buy a used cubby box in good condition (gray interior) and 
black running boards (authentic Land Rover) to fit a 100S wheel base?

Guy della-Cioppa
Vacaville, California
707-446-8461
Biosource@mcimail.com
Guy_dell@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 09:35:54 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of brakes...

In message <199506151709.MAA23828@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer writes:
 
> Speaking of brakes, is there anywhere a commonly-available double
> master cylinder that will bolt up to a Series IIa brake pedal? The thought
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> with a double master cylinder.
> Anybody done this, preferably with parts I can get in the States?

You need a series III brake pedistal (power brake booster included)
If you have an 88, get a series III master brake cylinder from just about
anywhere.  If you have a 109, the duel brake series III 109 was never inported 
to the US, so you will need to be very careful about specifying a seires III 109
duel master cylinder.  The way you can tell by looking is that the 88 cylinder 
is the same dia front to end, and the 109 cylinder is fatter at the end closest 
to the booster.  The duel wheel cylinders on the front of the 109 requires a 
larger diameter master cylinder for that circuit.  On 109s, the fat rear 
cylinder is for the front and the narrow front cylinder is for the rear brakes. 
It is reversed for the 88.

I highly recomend adding a brake failure valve when converting to duel brakes, 
even though the US spec 88 series III did not come with it.  This valve does two
thing:  One it cuts of a circuit in case of a sudden pressure loss so there is 
no pressure lost to the bad side above the valve (ie in the master cylinder) and
it has a switch that can go to a failure light to let ou know that half your 
brake system is blown.

As I mentioned before the US spec series III 88s did not have this brake failure
valve.  Rover's North does not recommend that people install one when switching 
from single to power duel systems.  

However, I did run a test that showed me that I should install a valve in my 
109.  

I opened the circut to the rear master cylinder and discovered that there was no
pressure going to the front circuit.  Evidently there is no physical linkage 
between the front & rear master pistons and the front circuit relys upon the 
rear curcuit to activate it.  Bottom line is that if you blow the front circuit 
you still have the rear functioning.  Blow the rear and you're brakeless.  
Rover's North says there is a physical link between the pistons.  There is not 
in mine.  It may be that there is one for the 88 single diameter brake system, 
or there may have been some changes to the master cylinder design that decoupled
the cylinders and caused Rover to start installing brake failure valves after 
they stopped impoerting Land Rovers to the US..

Other things:

You would need to ether use a series III front wing or cut your inner wing to 
fit the master cylinder and power brake assy.

You should ether switch to the series III master clutch cylinder with its built 
in resavour or find a new mounting place for the "tin can"

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 09:47:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In message <199506161304.IAA25045@butler.uk.stratus.com> Dave White writes:

> Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake 
> system.
> If you can get hold of a complete pedal assy. from one of these, they are a
> straight replacement for your existing pedal assy.

Actually it is not.  You will need to lengthen the slot for the pedal on the 
bulkhead.  One pedal pivits from the top, the other from the bottom.  The bolt 
holes remain the same.  The single cylinder pedisatal has the return spring 
coming from the top and the power system has a spring on each side.  This means 
you may have to widen the slot a very little to keep the springs from rubbing on
the bulkhead.

The duel brake cylinder was designed to be used only with the power booster.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:48:46 -0400
Subject: SUBSCRIBE

SUBSCRIBE PDONCASTER@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 11:13:12 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Tie rod end question

I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own 
tie rod ends.  I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me.

How do you tighten the  Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?

I have just put on new rubber boots and went to replace the nuts  only to have 
joints spin when I get to the nylon part of the nyloc nuts.  There doesn't seem 
to be a good place to hold on to the joint without messing up the threads. 
lightly tapping the top of the ends does not seat them enough to keep joint from
spinning.

Suggestions????

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: "Doug Sackinger" <DOUG@KIWI.IUPUI.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:18:56 EST
Subject:       Alaska sightings

Just back from vacation in Alaska, saw a number of rare beasts,

Grizzly w/ two cubs
Wolf
Caribou

Series II or IIa 88" SW - Anchorage, on the Glenn highway going the 
other way.

Red Disco - Fairbanks Goldstream Valley

Doormobile - Talkeetna, 7/1/95, blue, big dent in left rear, made my 
mouth water, went back the next morning and it was gone :-(
Anybody know who's it was?

Doug

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod end question
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 14:43:55 EDT

> I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own 
> tie rod ends.  I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> spinning.
> Suggestions????

Ah, for one....use a new editor.  I dunno if it's you or this MajorDomo but
most of your messages of late have come through garbled.

I had this same problem when I installed new tie rod ends and solved it by 
simply applying a tad of force on the bottom end (these were the hanging
type wherein the arm coming off of the swivel pin housing was on top so
that the tie rod end threads pointed upwards).....all I had to do was apply
*LIGHT* jack pressure underneath it and it kept the thing from spinning.
Naturally, you don't want to be jacking up the vehicle on these babies.
You've probably got the more recent setup (arms coming off the bottom, track
rod rides on top of them, threads point down) so you might have to snake
a jack in between them and your frame or something......

cheers,
rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 14:15:35 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Tie rod end question

 
> How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?
> TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling

               

  Do a "chin-up" on the bar while titening, if the nut is on the bottom side.
Do a "bench-press" if the nut is on the top. -or- find a bolt with the same
thread and run the new Nylock onto it, just to break it in.

R, bg

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Mendicino Forest
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 14:23:37 PDT

Hi all,

I just got back from a July 4th 4 days off road in the Mendicino National
forest (Northern California).

I just wanted to express how happy I am (and was) with my Defender-90.
It was just weeks weeks old (I bought a new 1994 def-90) when I took
it out on the off road trails in Mendicino. I had never been there 
before and it was great!

The truck easily handled anything I threw at it. I crossed many deep
rivers and went through some hairy road with deep ruts. I noticed that 
I tended to use Low 4 wheel drive with the diff unlocked for most of
the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked.

One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches
on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way
to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint
to help this?

Anyhow I love the truck more than ever now and am ready for the next off
roading!

Leland Roys
Cupertino California
roys@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 17:27:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jin Kim <jskim@clipper.ssb.com>
Subject: Disco sounds like...

On Tue, 27 Jun 1995, Peter C. Parsons wrote:
"Disco sounds like 'The ghost of Gene Cooper with...'

Yeah, your Disco and my disco must be playing from the same sheet
of music.  (I have a '94 Discovery with auto trans, sun roofs, rear
A/C and rear jump seats options.)

I first noticed the rough, unusual engine rhythm after about a week.
(you know, after the honeymoon period)  At first, I thought this was
a normal break-in period thing.  But, after reaching 1,500 mile mark,
it began to concern me increasingly more.  I took it in for checkup
and service a few times to fix the problem.  I've gotten answers
ranging from "I don't hear anything unusual." to "It sounds like you
have a bad camshaft." to "Oh, there is a fix for that - a camshaft
cap to prevent the camshaft from sliding back & forth."

Anyways, during the course of past 9 months, the camshaft was replaced,
then some more 'adjustments' were made, then just last week the camshaft
cap was put on.  But, it still has that rough, unusual engine rhythm.
It is a gasoline engine, but it sounds like 3-cylinder diesel engine with
a broken pacemaker.

Does anybody have any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: 05 Jul 95 18:23:16 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Defender in ca

Dixon observes:
>	any Series Vehicles!  They were Defender 80"'s, Defender fire
>	tenders (built in the mid 1950's on 107 chassis), Defender this
>	& Defender that!  Amazing...)  I have talked with the Managing 
...
didn't they mention the Defender bicycles Rover built?
("Life would be so sweet..." - courtesy of Django Edwards)

------------------------------

Date: 05 Jul 95 18:23:22 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Help with new car trouble. * engine halt while on slope *

>        I have a question about the new Range Rover which I purchased on
> 6/30/95.  What happened was when the car was on the hill and whether or not my
> foot is on the gas paddle or the break the engine sometimes would just die.
 
Well, there are of course a number of possible causes, like a faulty throttle
potentiometer or a braindead ECU - but with such a new and expensive vehicle,
I refuse even to discuss it. Park it on the dealers feet and tell him to get it
fixed on warranty PDQ!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 15:29:15 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest

 Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> writes about his new D-90:

>One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches
 on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way
 to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint
 to help this?                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 Oh sure, I think it's commonly known as mud.  You get it in mudholes
 in places like Hollister, marshes along the bay, or you can order it
 premixed from Rovers West at $25 per 5 gal. canister, plus shipping.

 Tread Lightly!

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:49:49 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest

On Wed, 5 Jul 1995, Leland J Roys wrote:

> I just wanted to express how happy I am (and was) with my Defender-90.
> It was just weeks weeks old (I bought a new 1994 def-90) when I took
> it out on the off road trails in Mendicino. I had never been there 

Bravo.

> the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked.

Try it in really severe and _variable_ terrain... one wheel in the mud 
with the others on rocks and dirt...

> One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches
> on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way
> to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint

Yeah, _mud_. Covers lotsa scratches ;-)

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 17:27:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Milthorp <milthorp@unbc.edu>
Subject: Swivel Balls

Hello Everyone
As a relative newby to the list, I have a couple of inquires.
First of all, I'm in the process of rebuiling/restoring my '55 Series I
and presently have the swivel balls and related bits & pieces spread out 
across my basement floor (Yes, Dear I'll wash my hands before I eat).
The splined swivel pins and housings are pretty much "knackered" but the
balls are still in very good shape. (no rust) I have a '60 Series II parts 
vehicle that has a different style of pins which are in good condition 
but the balls tend to be a bit rusty. Is it possible to remove the 
Series II pin housings and put them in the Series I balls?

What was the logic behind moving the swivel pins from the top of the 
swivel balls to the bottom where I would think that they would be 
more vulnerable to damage?

Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover?       

Brian Milthorp (milthorp@unbc.edu)
University of Northern British Columbia
Prince George, British Columbia
CANADA                                  No, I don't live in an igloo! :)
'55 Series I parts
'55 Series I under re-construction
'60 Series II parts
'65 Series II Hey, at least it runs

 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:02:43 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: rover on the web

Before you all rush off to visit, the site only has a list
of engineering jobs, however ...    http://www.rover.co.uk/

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 905 5205       fax: 61 3 905 5146       email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au
<A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/">Land-Rover</A>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 19:11:02 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest

About scratches and D90 paint:

Spent some time just above the snow line early this year.  The only place to
find traction while pulling out a friends stuck CJ was in the the bushes.

You should be able to get at least 5 deep buffings of the stock paint
job before you have to get out the paint brush.  This according to my
detailer.  He ran a lifted, ARB locker, winch equipped, Discovery and seemed to
have a good grip on Land Rover paint jobs and scratches.  He said he
couldn't recommend a coating that would be better than the stock paint. 
The scratches came out real well.  Couldn't tell they were ever there. 

Of course, the metal dashboard crowd will never forgive you for buffing
out a scratch.  The Series solution is to swap in a used fender with
bigger scratches.  This is to be taken from some Triumph product of similiar
vintage and installed after months of painstaking modifications to the fender
and the LR :)

-Rick

'94 D90 "Scratched all over, dented front fender (Hollister mud, actually,
hadn't noticed the dent until I made the mistake of washing the D90....)"

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: 05 Jul 95 22:45:14 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Erratum

Apologiesto Steve, the RR / P5 car diff has 46 wheel teeth ( not 47 as I a said
)  and 13  pinion teeth, it must be counting back to front on the other side of
the world that does it. ( I blame the aluminium ) .

 Regards   Bill Leacock     Limey in exile.. ( with a finger missing ? )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1993 22:54:25 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuels and Gas tanks

You bring up another 89 RR distaster memory.  Yes. yes. yes... shortly
after the purchase of my low price, high milage beast, it developed a leak
from the gas tank.  True, it was shortly after I found that gasoline mixed
with 10% ethanol was considerably cheaper than regular fuel.  Well, I was
going to take a blow torch the thing and weld up the holes (Just kidding,
hahaha)  Actually, I called up Land Rover and found that they warranty
their vehicle around 6 years or around 100,000 miles.  Somehow, I convinced
them to give me a new gas tank (I had to pay for the installation which was
approx $70-80)

Also, as they replaced the tank, they noted that the fuel pump was very
rusted.  As we all know on this board, we don't fix what aint broke.  I
suspect, letting the gas tank run nearly on empty left my fuel pump high
and dry and exposed to whatever elements are in my gas tank.
(theoretically, there should be fuel pump lubricants and rust inhibitors in
the fuel, am I right?)

With my new tank now, I fear not those cheap oxygenated fuels!  I just have
to sell the car before the new tank rusts through.

kgb
89 RR

*********************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/     <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*********************************************************

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 02:09:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: IT'S ALIVE

(This *is* a few days late, but then I've been driving it for the past few
days..)

My 1965 IIa 88 Station Wagon is on the road! I'm so happy...  :)  Finished
bolting on the wings on Saturday morning and drove it to the Owls Head meet
in Maine and back.. 700-750 miles on a truck that had not moved under it's
own power since 1976! Ya just gotta love Land Rovers...

Three weeks ago this was still just a frame, bulkhead and running gear with
the rest of the truck spread out in my back yard or stuffed in the back of
the VW camper. (I have no garage). I've been getting no sleep, but I have
become intimate with just about every nut and bolt in an 88! Actually have
names for a few, none of which I would care to repeat here!!

So Saturday morning I was bolting up the wings when Steve Denis showed up.
He helped me with the splash shields under the wings and we fiddled with the
Rochester, decided it was going to work and off we went. 16-17 MPG through
the Vermont and New Hampshire back roads (if I can believe Steve's
odometer). Used 2 quarts of oil for the whole trip :( - leaking rear main
seal. 40 lbs of oil pressure on the original guage and no hotter than 160F
on a new mechanical temperature guage.

The engine is from a '71 IIa and supposedly has been set up for unleaded
fuel. I replaced the timing chain and front oil seal and cleaned the crud
out of the pan. Silly me, I didn't replace the rear seal - now it leaks.

Only had a few other problems on the trip.
1. The steering is way too tight. There is oil in the steering box, relay
and swivels but I'll have to fiddle around with it for a bit to find the
cause.  If not, I'll have arms like Popeye before long! (Already have the
pipe and squinty eye! I yam what I yam!)
2. The fan belt loosened up. I converted the electrical system to neg ground
and installed a Delco alternator. I thought I had a belt that would work but
I guess not. Not a major problem, it still kept the alternator charging and
the water pump spinning. What I need is a longer adjusting arm.
3. The Rochester acts up a bit if the truck is facing up-hill. It seems to
load up too much while idling and then tries to stall when it's time to go.
A bit of an annoyance if in traffic.  I've got to re-check the float and try
a differant main jet.
4. Got to re-adjust the valves!
5. Got to replace the speedometer - and attend to a few related items.

All in all, I'm happy. It was a good trip up and back, the Rover did well
considering the state it was in, and I saw lots of familiar faces at Owls
Head. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (On the Road!)      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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