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Date: 08 May 95 08:50:15 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Sacrilige, but....

Folks:

Has anyone ever tried to fit a cruise control system from a Range Rover onto a
D90?  Is it possible?  With the engines the same, I would think installing a
system from a wrecked RR would not be that difficult?  Where are the driver
controls for Cruise on a RR?

I know, I know, it's sacrilige, but it's sometimes a long drive *to* the mud and
this is more of a theoretical exercise anyway.  I have too many projects to
bother with this one yet... but someday a supercharged and cruise-controlled D90
would be fun ;-)

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

94 D90 (yet unnamed)
'62 IIa 88 Mil (The Sgt Major)
'56 Series I Fire Tender

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 8 May 1995 09:17:45 GMT -0600
Subject:       Bush hog, speedo stutters, tubless tires

James Howard wrote with questions on tires & bush hogs.

Tube type vs tubless tires. I posted some time ago a note regarding
that issue. A friend of mine, from when I lived in VT, had a problem 
with tubless tires during Mud Season ( the time of year when they 
close roads, graders get stuck and roads are generally impassable, 
except of course by LR). Mud would work its way into the bead, break 
it and so a flat. On the other hand many people run tubless. Take 
your pick. I run tube type, but I'm old fashioned plus I have two
part wheels to make field repaires easier. One caution on tube type
though, if you lower the pressure too much you can get slippage of 
the tube inside the wheel and tear off the stem.

Bush hog vs OD; this is the perfect opportunity to get a new 
accessory for the LR. Tell your dad if he wants you to run a bush 
hog he needs to get you a transfer case bottom PTO unit. This bolts 
to the bottom of the transfer case and runs a PTO to the front or rear. 
Then you can have your OD too.

Sandy Grice asked about stuttering speedo;

Slip in the speedo drive wheel inside the transfer case will cause 
your symptoms. A loose rear transfer output shaft nut could cause it, 
it needs to be set to a very high torque (I forget what the figure is 
exactly, 175ftlbs maybe?) the manual says. Or you may have too many 
shims in the housing that the drive wheel is in.

Cheers,

Tom Rowe
University of Wisconsin			
Madison, WI				Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu	stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 95 10:26 EDT
From: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe)
Subject: Discovery floor mats

When I picked up my new Disco last week the dealer gave me
pinstriping, a box full of sweet food, coffee cups, et. al., and the
Jaguar life style magazine :-?-).  But those of us who want to haul
three kids, a dog and some other stuff around town, not to test that
the rhino bars actually work, would have appreciated floor mats
instead.  Or maybe a discount hah hah.

Can someone please recommend alternatives to the dealer's no doubt
usuriously priced mats?

Thanks.  Rick Jaffe

USMail:   OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577
Phone:	  +1 914 694-5800 x230	FAX:	+1 914 694-5831
Internet: rsj@ox.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 16:23:47 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: Tyres and innertubes

>I've had a couple of flats on tubeless tyres from hitting kurbs and other
>sharp objects hard enough to bend the rims, this shouldn't be a problem for
>tubed tyres and so I always use them.  The disadvantage was, as I
>understood, that tubed tyres are more uncomfortable to drive on the road!

Funny, I've had a couple of flats on tubeless tyres WITH tubes due to
the tube being worn by the inside of the tubeless tyre. BFG TracEdge to
be exact. I've driven about 10k on a new pair, with new tubes, and both
have punctured.

On the other hand, a collegue of mine has driven 20k with his, and had only
one puncture, due to using old tubes at high speeds.

Terje Krogdahl
terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html
1972 SIII 88"

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Sacrilige, but....
Date: Mon, 8 May 95 7:46:00 PDT

 I have given it a little thought. Talking with Rovers north, the problem
with the R- Rover cruise control is the speed senser off the trans.
I think the disco Cruise control would be a better fit.> 
The controls for a R-Rover are on the steering wheel. I was thinking 
of converting them to a dash mounted unit.

I will keep you  updated it I get any further I also have too
many other projects.

Russ

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Folks:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> '62 IIa 88 Mil (The Sgt Major)
> '56 Series I Fire Tender

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats
Date: Mon, 8 May 95 7:57:27 PDT

I picked up a 4' by 6' one inch thick rubber mat from
the local farm store. Cutting is was a bitch. but it
works great in the back of the D-90
by the weigh, it is about 100 lbs.

Russ
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Thanks.  Rick Jaffe
> USMail:   OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577
> Phone:	  +1 914 694-5800 x230	FAX:	+1 914 694-5831

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 10:56:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Nigel's Disease

Sandy Grice wrote:

> Seems my Rover has once again been stricken with "Nigel's Disease."  To the 
> uninitiated, this malady is highly contagious.  All that is required is that 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> The pipes/muffler are great - it's the cast steel flanges that have fallen 
> off.  Hopefully, I can get it rewelded tomorrow.

Hmmm, sorry 'bout that. I think I was the one who mentioned that about
SS pipes when I was redoing my exhaust. I saw SS pipes in the Atlantic
British catalog, and not in RN, so I asked RN and they told me the pipes
were exactly the way you describe. 

So I opted for the "genuine" part from RN, and as a compromise used SS 
nuts and bolts to put it together. That way, I at least won't have to 
cut the pipes off again when its rusts out.

Rust is my Enemy!

Tim
---
tim harincar              harincar@internet.mdms.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Salisbury for RR
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 02:28:18 +1000 (EST)

g'day again...
though no-one responded after my last (first) submission (sob), I will try 
again:
Does anybody in oz (pref victoria) know of a salisbury rear end from a 
110, county or defender which is able to be bought or bribed or stolen?
I want a STRONG diff to avoid that sinking feeling when i try my new 
motor in anger. (Must be 3.54 and pref coil sprung...i believe that some 
V8 SIII's were 3.54 and i suppose i could adapt one for RR coils).
I happily travel to obscure dark places or dig such a diff out of a bog...

by the way, is it possible to UNSUBSCRIBE <dickhead who bounces list> 
without actually being him ie. could some anonymous person do it ( now )!!
(beginning to remind me of Schindler's list....Too Fn Long to start with 
and twice as long with each new day.)

:}   (to be different)

also, i tried to subscribe to 
au-lro.. no joy? does it really exist?

Leaks but I luv it...
77 RR
Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au)
 ______
/ /  | \___
\_ ^ __ ^ _:   >>>             .............             
  {*}  {*}       ............./      
................/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 95 09:33:57 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Discovery floor mats

I got a perfectly good set of rubber mats from Grand/Auto for $16 for
my RR. Admitedly they're of the "one size fits all" variety but they do
the job.

Cheers

John Brabyn
Mill Valley, Ca
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 May 95 12:19:27 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats

     
Rick,

Your argument coincides much with my situation -- Disco for kid-haulin' 
& general transport is on order and will hopefully be here by September.  
Am getting basic car and will buy rubber (not carpet) mat sets from one 
of my usual suppliers; UPS shipping will be much cheaper than sales tax at 
the dealer.

There is an industrial-type rubber mat material which is covered with
bottle cap-sized pips for traction, very similar to the effect on the
ones offered by L-R for Disco.  You would have to cut and fit.  (Perhaps 
a dealer will let you trace originals !!!)  The same material also comes as
1-foot-square floor tiles.  Check flooring vendors in the yellow pages.  
I haven't worked with the stuff, but it's an idea.

The center and rear mats of my 109 wagon are ribbed rubber mat that came
in a roll I accidentally inherited 10 years ago in 
Florida.  It matched the originals (?) that were in the car when I 
bought it from its 2nd owner.  This mat is probable cheaper still and 
would also do for the Disco.  I guess it would be found at an industrial
supplier of some sort.

Last suggestion, is those thicker, padded mats that are designed to relieve
stress for those who must stand for long periods (at a counter/workbench,
for example) on concrete floors.  I've seen them advertised in Leichtung
Workshop catalogs, but are also likely to be found at large DIY warehouse
stores or industrial/shop supply houses.

Hope this helps.

Hank

P.S.,

> Subject: Discovery floor mats
> Author:  rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe) at Zeus
> From: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe)
> Subject: Discovery floor mats

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)]
> USMail:   OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577 
> Phone:   +1 914 694-5800 x230 FAX: +1 914 694-5831

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats
Date: Mon, 8 May 95 12:45:51 EDT

> Can someone please recommend alternatives to the dealer's no doubt
> usuriously priced mats?

Yeah.  Walmart.

rd/nige

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  8 May 95 12:17:24 EDT
Subject: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors

Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the
wiper motors on my 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons
learned in this process together into a tutorial for  those 
fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure...

This is based solely on my experience disassembling, cleaning
and reassembling the two wiper motors on my car, and doesn't
construe any official policy of Land-Rover, the British government,
Margaret Thatcher or anyone else but me.....<grin>

On to the show, then....

1: Dismounting the motor from the truck:

The motors on my car  were held in place by a double-nut on a threaded
shaft. Two of these were used to mount each motor, and both were 
badly corroded on my example. The threaded shafts ended up
unscrewing from the motors, and are being replaced with the proper
thread of stainless-steel bolt. With the wiper blade removed by
loosening the mounting bolt and pulling it off the shaft, the motor
was free to be withdrawn into the cab, 

The two wires on the motor were then disconnected, noting the
respective terminals they attached to.

NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive-ground cars
to negative, ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity
grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell
of the motor.

2: Disassembing the motor for cleaning:

Once on the bench, I gave each motor a run-up with a 12-volt power
supply. Both dragged badly, indicating that the gear grease had 
congealed.

I removed the rear cover of the motor by removing the brass slotted
nut at the center of the blade control and the two machine screws at
the left and right sides of the rear cover. After this, the rear cover was
free to come off, only needing a bit of persuasion with a plastic mallet
to come free.

Removal of the front cover was a bit more involved. The first item to be 
removed was a small metal block trough which the wiper shaft passed.
With this block removed, the shaft spring could be released by
straightening a crimped washer holding the wiper shaft in the motor.
Straightening this removed the tension from the locking spring for the
shaft, allowing it to slide back out through the motor. With this out, the
three nuts holding the front cover on can be removed.

3: Motor cleanup and check-out:

Before we disassemble anything, let's have a good look at what we're
disassembling. Looking at the gearcase end, the first thing you'll see
is a 110-tooth gear drilled with an offset bearing. In that bearing is the
pin from a shaft that runs to a follower arm with a hole down its center.
This is the bit that the wiper shaft comes out of.

Under the 110-tooth gear is a double gear, which engages both the
edge of the 110-tooth gear and the motor shaft. This intermediate gear
is made of phenolic and, I am told, can disintegrate if the motor is abused
with heavy loads. The motor shaft runs through the central casting into
the back half, where the windings, rotor and switching are.

What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. 
This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems
like the favorite mode of failure for this design.

Now comes the fun bit, where we get REALLY dirty. Fill a small container
with grease solvent - personally I like the newer orange-based stuff, as 
it's friendlier to the environment and my lungs.

Working carefully, remove the gears from the front of the motor and clean 
them in the solvent, using a toothbrush to get out the stubborn bits of gunk
from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - 
it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft
to the follower arm of accumulated crud.

Also, get a cotton swab into the bearing holes in the casting and clean them
out to eliminate the old grease completely.

We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good
cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back
of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this
case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings.

DON'T FORCE IT OUT! You'll eat the bearings. Clean the inside hollow 
of the shaft with solvent, as well as the inside of the bearings the hollow
shaft rode in. Use a cotton swab with solvent, being careful to keep the
solvent off the electrical bits.

The motor rotor's the next bit we want to deal with. Its two bronze bushings
need to be cleaned and regreased. This part is tricky - If you don't feel
comfortable after reading it through, then skip it if the rotor turns freely
and runs OK.

Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up
the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper
contacts. WATCH OUT FOR THE BRUSHES! If yours is like mine, they
will be slung forcefully out of the motor, landing several feet away.
If lost, don't panic. Most hardware stores can provide brushes for small
power tools that can be made to serve nicely with a bit of filing. As a 
matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as
they were badly worn.

Pivot the rear bearing assembly out of the way, being careful of the
wires from the brushes to the coil below. With this, the rotor can be
withdrawn from the stator. Clean its bearing surfaces with solvent,
also the bearings themselves.

4: Reassembly:

First thing to go back in is the motor rotor. Grease its bearing surfaces
with a good coat of an all-purpose grease, and reinsert it into the
hole in the stator. 

Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes
open with the points of a pair of needlenose plier and slide the bearing
back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at
all times.

It's easier if you present the bearing assembly so that the end of the
rotor shaft can slip straight back into the bearing - hold it straight!
It seems tricky, but it can be done! Worst-case, tie the brushes back with
a bit of wire so you can devote both hands to engaging the shaft.
Reattach the rear bearing with the two nuts removed earlier and tighten.

Now, grease the bearings of each of the gears and put them back
in place in the front of the casting. The fiber gear goes in first, then the
110-tooth gear, then reinsert the hollow shaft you took out earlier, making
sure to grease all of the bearings and pivot points as you put it back
together.

A NOTE ON GREASE: 
  You might want to make very sure that the lubricant you use has 
proper cold-weather characteristics. Some all-purpose lubricants 
congeal in cold weather, making the operation of the wipers very
difficult.

Once you have all of the bits back in properly, turn the rotor of the
motor by hand to make sure nothing's binding. If all's well, put the
front gearcase cover back on and test-run the motor.

If it passes, great!. Now we can put the wiper shaft back into the
motor and complete reassembly. Reinsert the wiper shaft from
the rear of the motor. Over the shaft from the front of the motor, slide
on the cleaned tension spring and either the washer you removed
 to free it, or a retaining ring of the proper size. Personally, I went with
the retaining rings so that I could periodically open and regrease the
 motors.

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors
Date: Mon, 8 May 95 14:59:39 EDT

> Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the
> wiper motors on my 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons
> learned in this process together into a tutorial for  those 
> fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure...

Ah, the antithesis of Nigel's Disease at work (I'm in the midst of
a few of these myself).

> This is based solely on my experience disassembling, cleaning
> and reassembling the two wiper motors on my car, and doesn't
> construe any official policy of Land-Rover, the British government,
> Margaret Thatcher or anyone else but me.....<grin>

and me, and him, and her, and that.....

> NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive-ground cars
> to negative, ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity
> grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell
> of the motor.

You sure about this?  I always wondered if reversing the polarity on
yer rover might give you troubles with the wipers (reversed motor
spinning might catch a brush on an armature's rough edge....chip,
chip?)....gotta be....I'll check.

> What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. 
> This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems
> like the favorite mode of failure for this design.

Generally, this is all they usually need.  Brushes and their springs/
spring holders do frequently fail, however....thence they sit, used
only in "manual mode" until they freeze up completely.  (And yes, they
are still salvagable.....I've saved two recently that spent a decade out
in the rain.)  As you relate, brushes can be obtained from some electrical
motor geek store.  I "fabricated" some brush spring hoders from the thickest
part of a plastic milk carton.  Looks stock (from the outside)!

> from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - 
> it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft

Absolutely.  I just clean this one with a rag and leave it at that.

> We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good
> cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back
> of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this
> case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings.

I've never seen one like this.....the follower arms just drop right out
(and are held in by grease and the casing itself).....I'd suggest NOT
mushrooming them back in.

> Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up
> the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as
> they were badly worn.

Two suggestions......

1) unsolder the connections to the coil/incoming hot wire first.
Much easier to handle when it isn't all strung together by those flimsy
wire wrappings of the somewhat delicate coil.

2) Clean up the armature while you've got the motor's rotor out.   A few
quick spins around "finger pinched fine grit sandpaper" will clean it pronto,
thence a razor blade to clean out between the crevices on the armature.

> Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes
> open with the points of a pair of needlenose plier and slide the bearing
> back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at
> all times.

I use two tiny screwdrives to hold the brushes in the fully open position
and a touch of patience with perserverance on the side.  

Bravo!

But you forgot to mention that these Lucas wipers can fetch $300 on the
open market.

Whatever you do, DON'T throw them away,
rd/nigel

------------------------------

From: Peter.Wong@gsa.gov
Date: Mon, 08 May 95 12:45:53 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Discovery floor mats

     Russell,
        
                I ordered the Disco mats from LR but had to return them for 
     the following reason;
     
                1) the one for the lips would have been great for the kids 
     but the rear seat could not close fully against the right side. 
     
                2) the ones without the lip did not fit correctly into the 
     vehicle.
     
                I have found that the Herrington catalog has a product for 
     about 129 (US) which is a liner with a lip but do not have any 
     experience with that product but they claim it fits.
     
                                                        Peter.

> Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats
> Author:  "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> at Internet

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> > usuriously priced mats?
> Yeah.  Walmart.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 22:44:58 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Sacrilige, but....

Gosh, my '66 has a great cruise control... old mechanical unit up on the 
dash ;-)

Come to think of it, the '70 did too, it was a piece of 2"x4" bolted to 
the side of the foot-well just beside the pedal... when my foot was flat 
to the wood, the pedal was just right for the motorway...

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 May 1995 18:31:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: Digest problems--Help!  Lucas involved?

I am having digest problems (ha, ha, pun) and was wondering if anyone could
please help.  I was previously on the individual message mode.  Finding the
#of daily messages too high, I unsubscribed and resubscribed, hoping to then
receive just the full digest each day and not the 50-60 individual messages.
I now receive BOTH the digest and the individual messages each day, and am
beginning to wonder if the Majordomo has a Lucas voltage regulator or
something. I have tried the unsubscribe-resubscribe trick several times (and
gotten the right confirmations from the Majordomo) without good results. 

I know, like everything British and electrical, I shouldn't have tampered
with it in the first place, but could someone please help?
Henry B. Wilson             (wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu or henben@aol.com)
'59 Austin Healey 100-6
'94 LR Discovery 5-speed

------------------------------

From: "Rostykus, John" <john@mailgwy.Data-IO.COM>
Subject: Part suppliers in Scotland or northern England
Date: Mon, 08 May 95 16:43:00 PDT

This is directed at the list members living in the UK (or anyone else with 
info about Land Rover parts suppliers in the UK).

My wife and I will be in Scotland for 10 days roaming the countryside, and 
will be looking for various items on my parts wish/need list.  I am looking 
for advice on reputable parts suppliers that are located either in Scotland 
or in northern England.  I know of many that are in middle or southern 
England, but am not likely to make it that far south.

Please send your insights to 'john@data-io.com' before Thursday May 11th, or 
to the list if you thinks it's relevant.

Thanks for your help.

Rosty
john@data-io.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 19:42:46 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: "The Land Rover Experience"

Land Rover is offering a series of "experiences" at two sites in the US; 
unfortunately, the UK site (at Eastnor Castle, no less) is already 'sold 
out'.  The US sites will be in the Beaverkill Valley area (Catskill 
Mountains) of New York state and on the Monterey peninsula of California.

These three day/three night sessions include lodging, meals and training in 
Land Rover vehicles; each location is limited to 15 participants.  The 
California dates are Sept. 13-16, 16-19, 20-23 and 23-26 with lodging at the 
1,700 acre Carmel Valley Ranch; training will be in the nearby Hollister 
Hills State Vehicle Recreation Area and other sites nearby.  Folks attending 
the New York event will stay at the Beaverkill Valley Inn (circa 1893) with 
vehicle training in the nearby Catskill Mountains; this experience is 
scheduled for July 7-10, 10-13, 13-16 and 16-19.

Instructors at each location will include Camel Trophy veterans and other 
off road professionals.  Tread Lightly! principles for off-road driving will 
part of the learning process.  However, with the degree of luxury afforded 
by the food and lodging at each event, it is a fairly expensive experience.

Yours truly gets no compensation from these events (though Land Rover North 
America did contibute a hefty chunk of change to the Mid Atlantic Land Rover 
Rally last year).  For more information, contact Nancy McCaig at 
804-581-1331 or E-Mail to lr88@aol.com. or call 800-726-5655.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 20:07:22 -0400
Subject: LROA, NA Membership Directory

Hi All,

The Summer '95 issue of the Aluminum Workhorse will contain an LROA, NA
Membership Directory.  The Directory contains the names, addresses and phone
numbers, in alphabetical order, by State and last name, with a separate list
for Foreign (non-U.S.).  This year's Directory will also include primary
vehicle driven or owned, and *e-mail* address, where available.  

Our records contain *some* Land Rover (i.e.  '51 Series I  80'', or ? SIIA
109,  '89 RR,  '95 Discovery, '94 D90 to list a few) vehicle listings for
members who have provided us with this information on their membership
application.  We also have *some* e-mail addresses for members we communicate
with on a regular basis.

If you are an LROA, NA member, *and* you would like your LR type  driven and e
-mail address included in the 1995 LROA, NA Membership Directory, please
e-mail us with that information ASAP.

If you are an LROA, NA member, and you *DO NOT* want your name published in
the Membership Directory, please let us know this  ASAP.

Cheers,

Bob and Sue Bernard, LROA, NA
P. O. Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967-1144
916 877-5656 <BobandSueB@aol.com>
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 18:37:20 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats

> I picked up a 4' by 6' one inch thick rubber mat from
> the local farm store. Cutting is was a bitch. but it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> by the weigh, it is about 100 lbs.
> Russ

  Rover used to sell what they called "mud matts". They were made from little
sections of cut up tires, just like some door matts you can buy at the
hardware store. I have a set* of OEM "mud matts" in the front of my '64 88".
I was unable to get the OEM one for the rear, so I made one. I bought several
door matts at the hardware store, took them apart and restrung the little
rubber rectangles on some longer wire, to fit the rear of the 88". These
are just what you need in your Rover. dirt falls through, you just throw
'em out on the driveway and hose 'em off. Protects the floor from heavy
objects, like that diff you picked up at the breakers. deadens the noise
and provides thermal insulation. Make a set today.

R, bg

*15 years old a just as good as new

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 23:12:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Rampant Nationalism/Downeast Rally

dkenner@emr1.emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)wrote:

 and Cdn$5 for Canadians. Canadians do not have to 
 supply five dollars US. (for the BBQ)

And he is correct, I apologise for my amer-centric slip-up. <g>

spenny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 20:18:21 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: D90 transfer break in

Just a quick question for comments on anyone out there with a D90.  I 
drive a US market 1994 model.  I've been noticing difficulty in getting 
the transfer case into center differential lock, and there is a tendency 
for it to occasionally pop out.  This is similar to behavior I initially 
noticed in first gear and low range. Both the latter have disappeared 
with time.  

Has anyone else had this "problem" (is it a problem)?

I'm assuming that this is just a matter of breaking in since the diff 
lock hasn't been used all that much.  Is this the case? I thought I'd 
bring it to the dealers attention in case a warranty repair is warranted 
if it doesn't disapper with a few thousand more miles and offroad 
sessions.

I'd appreciate a direct E-mail response if you're responding from the 
LRO digest since its performance of late has more than convinced me that 
the system contains Lucas parts. 

thanks

Jeremy Bartlett (jjbpears@ix.netcom.com)

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: Digest problems--Help!  Lucas involved?
Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 21:05:30 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> Henry B. Wilson writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> something. I have tried the unsubscribe-resubscribe trick several times (and
> gotten the right confirmations from the Majordomo) without good results. 

You've probably gotten a number of replies to your message, but here's
another one.  As near as I can figure out, we are all getting a mixed bag
of messages.  Some stranger than others.  Your situation may be aggravated
by an additional extenuating circumstance.  Bill C., the Majordomo's Lord
and Master, is away for a total of some 2-3 weeks, and NOTHING is working
the way it should.  

Although the server is a Sun (I gather) it has apparently been retrofitted
with Lucas relays and vaccuum tubes in Bill's absence.  The best solution
is to recognize that there is nothing to be done for the present, delete
ALL of the individual messages as well as the bounced digests that have
driven so many formerly sane(?) LROs over the edge and get on with life as
you'd like it to be.  Bill is expected to return someday and will shape
up the Majordomo when he gets around to it.  In otherwords, treat it just
like a Land Rover, and it will get you to your destination. 

Walt Swain

------------------------------

Date: 08 May 95 18:49:09 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.

After days of no mail my mail is increasing exponentially,23 messages today,
most repeat, repeat etc.  how long before the mailserver dissappears up it's own
derriere ?

To travel at 90 mph in a ser 3 LR requires an engine speed of 5450 rpm in top
gear with standard gearing, Jory if you can do this what is the secret? rocket
Fuel.?
 I have travelled at these speeds with modified motors i.e. V8 engines and
modified gearing, even in a diesel with much modified gearing anf oversize
tyres, the major problem being with 4 huge flywheels the thing would not stop!!

 Sperry the Viking you want, is it from the P4 hood or the P6 side ?, I think I
have both.

At the risk of repeating myself I say again, standard Land Rover wheels are NOT
designed to be operated without inner  tube tyres. I am sure that in the event
of an accident associated with wheels the insurance company would disown you for
operating without tubes. I have operated Land Rovers for over quarter of a
century, on and off road and provided proper tubes are used I have had no major
problems.

Andy   Play in the front diff input shaft is a combination of the backlash in
several parts and is usually much more than the rear, The backlash is made up of
some or all of the following :
 drive flange to shaft ;pinion to wheel ; wheel to planet carrier housing ;
planet carrier housing to planet shaft : planet shaft to planet gear ; planet
gear to planet gear : planet gear bore to quarter shaft : quarter shaft to
hookes joint; hookes joint bearings. hookes joint to quarter shaft ; quarter
shaft to drive flange ; drive lange to wheel hub and of course since many of
these are duplicated side to side the effect is complicated.
 It is therefore necessary to look at all the parts in the drive train, th eonly
way to check the diff backlash is out of the vehicle when you can see where it
is. It is easy to adjust the   wheel sideways to reduce tooth clearance, often
the shims in the planet gears break up and give rise to play.
 The rear diff also has several joints contributing to the opverall backlash,
the half shaft to drive flange usually being poor.
 the Salisbury crown wheel and planet gear assembly can usually be removed with
a couple of tyre levers, the spreader plate is a luxury.

 Regards  Bill Leacock    Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 01:18:52 -0400
Subject: head help

All,
I have some head questions,

What all do i need to do to this head before i put it in my rover?
I saw it run. before we took it off the donor rover. I am planning not to
rebuild it as I need to have my car down for as little time as possible. (I
will rebuild the curent head at my leisure)

What ever happened with the head gasket thing that went on a couple of months
ago.? I will buy a Genuine head gasket obviously, but i thought the offenders
were genuine

Help, tips and comments greatly appreciated

spenny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 22:53:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephanie Changaris <changris@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: D90 transfer break in

On Mon, 8 May 1995, Jeremy  wrote:

> Just a quick question for comments on anyone out there with a D90.  I 
> drive a US market 1994 model.  I've been noticing difficulty in getting 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> with time.  
> Has anyone else had this "problem" (is it a problem)?

Jeremy,

No.  Although I had an ongoing problem with my original transfer case, 
and eventually had it replaced under warranty
due to excessive play in it, I have not had any problems with either the 
original or the replacement center diff lock.  When we drove the Sierra 
Trek last summer I popped out of first once or twice but that was 
under extreme 
conditions and may very well have been me hitting the gearshift while 
thrashing around.  It was my first experience boulder crawling and took 
some getting used to.

I would like to take a ride in yours on our next trip just to compare 
various whines and noises.  Spot shifts with some difficulty into first 
when stationary. Yours?

Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 08:06:28 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Bush hog, speedo stutters, tubless tires

Hello!
I never heared of a "transfer case bottom PTO unit".
Can you give some details (a picture maybe)?

I have a Koenig winch on my '68 SIIa 109" LR. Would it with the
"transfer case bottom PTO unit" be possible to add an overdrive without
removeing the winch?

Thanks, Peter

Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
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