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Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:31:48 +0200
From: lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge)
Subject: Re.  Troubleshooting Gear Grinding

:carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) writes:

:My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse.  I'd appreciate
:any experienced advice on the next step to persue.  Here's the case:

I remember reading somewhere, probably LRO mag., that the length of the push
rod in the clutch hydraulic slave cylender is critical, and apparently wears
to become too short.  Might be worth a check

---
Lloyd Tunbridge

1970 Series IIA 109" Safari currently standing without clutch and brakes!

------------------------------

Date: 07 May 95 16:59:57 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Digest exploding

Who the f... is this vbormc.vbo.dec.com that keeps on bouncing the entire
digest back!?  Could've expected something like this to happen when Bill's
on home leave...  Murphys' law at work. First no digest, now bombshells.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: ChipEast@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:38:28 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com

unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
you can send mail to "Majordomo@Team.Net" with the following command
in the body of your email message:

unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com

FOR THE LAST TIME, PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THIS MAIL LIST.  IT IS CAUSING
GREAT DISHARMONY DUE THE HIGH QUANTITY OF MAIL.  I HAVE TRIED EVERY WAY
POSSIBLE TO REMOVE MYSELF FROM THE LIST AND I STILL GET THE DIGEST.

THANK YOU.

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:07:40 -0400
Subject: Downeast Rally Info:  Maine USA -July 

                               Downeast VII
                 7th Annual Mid-Coast Land Rover Rally
                     July 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 1995

            ************** Saturday July 1st ************** 

Offroad day among lakes, woods and blueberry barrens of Camden Hills.

Fun and challenging off road trials course with water crossings, mud 
holes, rocks & boulders, climbs & descents, trenches, pole bridges, 
see-saw, articulation alley and other obstacles to embarrass show-offs. 
Plus miles of trails and team endeavors for diehards.

Range Rover and Discovery restricted if fitted with spoiler.
Driving instruction available.
BBQ and pot luck. (so bring something)
Playground for kids, swimming, canoeing, hiking.
Vehicle service workshop on site.
Rover's North will be in attendance
Alcohol free zone and Tread Lightly in effect except on course.
(participants are under no obligation to take part in any activity 
and don't be afraid to ask for driving instruction.)

******************************************************************** 
To join the fun, you must register, and send $5 (per person) for BBQ.
             (children without voracious appetites eat free)
               Only then will you be sent map & directions.
********************************************************************

Evening dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub Lincolnville Beach from 6:30 pm
                Location: 6 miles north of Camden on Rte. 1

            ************** Sunday, July 2nd ************** 

Owl's Head Transportation Museum, Owl's Head Maine

Arrive before 10:00 am if you can

Free admission to all rovers, (2 adults, 2 children per vehicle)
100+ rovers, US. & Canadian clubs, specialist parts, service, 
restoration, vehicle sales companies and dealers, latest new vehicles, 
including the new Range Rover, Rover's North offroad winching 
demonstration, 3 minute balancing see-saw competition. 
(practice all day on Saturday if you like at the off-road day)
Full facilities on site: airshow will feature 
B-17, P-51, Yak-11, AV-8B Harrier Jump Jets, plus lots more.

Around 4-4:30 pm
Join the "lets get the hell outta here convoy!"
And see you later for dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub 
(unless some other bright spark has a better idea.

            ************** Monday July 3rd ************** 

Downeast coastal tour, picturesque historic villages, antique 
stores, damn good lunch, wildlife refuge park, then back to base 
camp, cook dinner, followed by rocking chairs, tall tales, even 
better lies, downright untruths with large helpings of slander on 
Murphy's back porch at Ducktrap 
intoxicating beverages will be tolerated

            ************** Monday July 3rd ************** 

Tuesday: much the same as Monday 'cept inland, or back to the 
offroad course for some clutch burnin' fender bender fun in the 
other person's rover.

    *** info **** info **** info **** info **** info **** info ***

            Weekend camp - The Old Massachusetts Homestead

(south) Northport, Me 207-789-5135, ask for Dwight
Location: 8 miles north of Camden, 2 miles north of The Whale's Tooth 

For alternative accommodations contact organizer

                     Breakdown/rescue assistance:

East Coast Rover Company, Camden, Maine - 207-236-0646
Howard's Land Rover Garage, Warren, Maine - 207-273-2370
or have AAA deliver you to one of the above

--------------------------------------------------------------------
       For information and location of the off road trial site, 
             send $5 for BBQ along with SASE us only to:

                     Myles Murphy, 
                     RR2, Box 23, Ducktrap, 
                     Lincolnville Beach, Maine, 04849, USA 
                     or (207) 789-5303.

                     or email
                     spenny@aol.com
-----------------------------------------------------
please print this out and show it to someone who isn't on the net.
            thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:11 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Tony's Ignition

Tony Bonanno (15034.3062@Compuserve.com) asked about electronic ignitions.  
I installed the Luminition unit six (eight?) years ago and haven't touched 
the ignition system ('cept for replacing the high tension leads once) since. 
Need more be said?  It takes longer to read the documentation than it does 
to install it.  Two tips: ignore the reference to the "ballast resistor" - 
there isn't on on series Rovers.  There is a little wedge on the inside 
diameter of the chopper blade thingie that has to be removed; otherwise the 
rotor sits up too high and rubs the cap.  
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:16 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Centre Diffs 101

--=====================_799909542==_
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The following is a reprint from the Spring, 1995 issue of "The Gearbox", the 
quarterly newsletter of the Rover Owners' Association of Virginia.  Written 
by Jim Allen of "Stateside Beat" column fame in LRO, it is the best 
description of that most mysterious mechanical linkage (at least to me) the 
center differential.  The article is a response to a previously-published 
article by Stefan Jacob.  In fact, Stefan asked that I post this; it should 
probably be included in the FAQ.  It is, however, about 20k of text.  
Cheers, all.

--=====================_799909542==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Thought I'd give you some input by responding to a tech tip from Stefan
Jacob in the last issue [of "the Gearbox"] and add a bit to Bill Maloney's
comments on getting passed the spectre fo emissions testings.  I'm still
enjoying the newsletter greatly, especially the tech stuff.

I have to respectfully disagree with some of Stefan's comments on Range
Rover center differentials.  Before I get into the meat 'n taters, let me
qualify myself by saying that my information comes from six years as a
factory-trained (read: Solihull) Land Rover line technician, two years as a
Land Rover Driving Instructor and many other years just mucking about
with Land/Range Rovers in general.

CENTRE DIFFERENTIALS 101
     First, a explanation of how a centre differential works.  Though called
"full-time" four wheel drive, the Range Rover system really isn't.  Centre
diff unlocked, it's still really a two wheel drive; it just has the option to
drive a front wheel.  As with all open differentials (remember that the
Range Rover has three, with only the centre lockable), power takes the
path of least resistance.  With a conventional 4X2, if you put one rear
wheel on dry pavement and the other on sheet ice, the power will go to
the wheel on ice.
     The centre diff works the same way.  Under the right circumstances, if
you put both front and one rear wheel on pavement and the other rear on
ice, the one tire on ice is going to spin and the Rover will just sit there. 
We're talking the manually locked center diff here (LT-95, LT-230), not the
Borg-Warner unit with the VCU (viscous coupling unit) that automatically
locks the center diff when slippage is sensed.
     OK, so with the center diff unlocked, the system can transfer power to
the wheel with the least amount of traction.  If you lock the center diff,
the power is split 50/50 between the front and rear, just like the
conventional transfer box on your alder Land-Rovers.  The centre diff is
then coupled and spins as one unit.

USING THE CENTRE DIFF
     The most glaring problems with Stefan's comments lie in the second
paragraph.  My experience with Range Rover transfer boxes, and also Land
Rover doctrine, dictate certain technique for their systems.
     Stefan was quite correct in saying that it's unnecessary and undesirable
to lock the centre diff on the road for the same reasons your wouldn't put
your Series Land-Rover into four-wheel.  Tire and drivetrain wear are
accelerated on highly tractive surfaces and even a wet road qualifies as
highly tractive.  An icy or snowy road where you are spinning just one tire
in an attempt to move is an exception, though driving icy roads with the
centre diff locked can be treacherous; the same advice would apply to
standard 4X4's in four wheel drive.
     Stefan is also absolutely correct to warn against applying diff lock
whilst you've got lots of wellie applied.  You either want to be in diff lock
before you get to the wildly spinning tire stuff (not the best way to drive,
anyway) or you want to: 1) back off the throttle, 2) engage the diff lock
lever, 3) wait 'til the light come on (the sure indicator that it's actually
engaged, since the light reads off a sensor in the t-box) and 4) get back on
the fuel feed.  You don't have to push in the clutch to engage diff lock
(you couldn't anyway with the auto tranny) but being gentle doesn't hurt
if you have the option.
     Here is where Stefan and I part ways: If you are in terrain that's more
than the family sedan can handle - engage the diff lock!  Why?  Once you
start getting into low traction situations, you start that centre diff to
working hard.  It's actually very small and not as robust as the diffs in
your axles.  Gears a-spinnin', its starts to get hot, especially if "Joe's
Genuine Recycled Gear Oil" that you put in can't keep up with the
lubrication needs.  Shimmed with brass behind the diff gears, once they
loose lubrication, from heat generally, they melt down and/or get spit out
in chunks.  The gears then walk around, get cockeyed and break.
Sometimes the broken chunks will lock the unit into one piece and you
will find the vehicle in truly permanent four-wheel drive.  If it doesn't
lock up, you stop.
     With the centre diff locked, power is transferred through the much
stronger centre diff housing instead of the gears.  In diff lock, the unit is
stronger than unlocked and no more vulnerable to breakage than any
other 4X4, V-8 engine, first gear, wide open throttle and blocked wheels
notwithstanding.

T-CASE DETAILS
     Stefan and I break ranks on another issue.  I'm sorry to say that Range
Rover LT-230 gearboxes do commonly leak - it's the number one cause of
failure. The rear output seal is the usual culprit, followed by the pan
gasket.  The pan is easily remedied with a gasket backed up with sealant on
the pan and the bolts. The oil seal is less easily corrected, though I
understand that there is a new seal available of better quality than the
early ones.  The newer Discos and Defenders don't seep much compared to
'87-'88 Range Rovers; Borg-Warner took over in '89 an it really doesn't
leak.
     Stefan is correct on the importance of not having the handbrake
adjusted tight in order to keep the heat down and not melt the seal.  Most
of the older Range Rovers I worked on were '87-88 automatics, and most
owners didn't use the handbrake anyway.  I saw few seal problems related
to heat.
     Anyway, the oil level gets low due to the rear seal leak and lack of
attention.  What goes first?  Your got it - the centre diff.  It spins its shims
out and there you go - buying a $1,100 centre diff assembly.  The moral? 
Update your seals to the latest spec, check oil levels regularly and don;t
overdo the handbrake adjustment.  Stefan was also spot-on about the vent
hoses and the importance of keeping them clear.
     LT-230s are somewhat noisy by nature, and it's actually rare to find a
totally silent one.  This is the #1 Discovery complaint right now.  Most
times, the "LT-230 whine" will last 200,000 miles.  If the noise is there
from the beginning and never changes over a long period, you can
probably ignore it.  If it arrives suddenly or changes pitch, you ought to
investigate further.
     Two LT-230s exist: the LT-230R and the -230T.  The "R" unit has roller
bearings on the intermediate shaft gear and was used in early RR, 90s and
110s with high range ratios from 1.003-1 (the RR auto with Torqueflite),
1.412-1 (early 90 four cylinders and the 110 V-8) and 1.667-1 (early 110 four
bangers).
     The "T" unit has tapered roller bearings on the intermediate gears and
nearly the same ratios in the same applications, except that the ZF
automatic Range Rovers use a 1.22-1 high range gear, as do Discovery
5-speeds and auto and V-8 Defender 90s.  The T-unit is the better box. 
R-unit boxes have a tendency to have thrust washer trouble on the
intermediate gear, as did the LT-95 box.  Bearing whine on the T-unit can
often be traced to improper bearing preloads on either/both the inter gear
bearings and the centre diff housing.
     If you change your diff oil and find lots of brass, you've got centre diff
problems.  Often, you'll have trouble getting it out of diff lock along with
the brass chunks.  The centre diff on an LT-230, incidentally, can be
removed in-situ without removing the t-box.  Don't wait too long to
reshim the centre diff or you may have to buy the whole unit.
     The LT-95 (four speed box) has the trans and t-box in one unit.  That
means if you really grenade the t-box, the entire housing must be replaced. 
The LT-95 was a very good unit overall.  Intermediate gear bearings and
shims were the most common failure.  Next would be the vacuum servo
that locked the centre diff.  The latest (early 1980's) models are the best.
     The Borg-Warner t-box is nearly trouble free.  A rare failed VCU and
an occasional leak is the usual trouble, though most of them soldier on
with no problems.  They are not quite as strong as the LT-230s, though. 
In an off-road abuse "duel to the death," the LT-230 would come out on
top.  From a customer standpoint, however, the BW unit is great.  User
friendly and lacking of day-to-day mechanical vices (like leakage), look for
this unit to end up in the Discovery very soon.

SMOGGING LAND-ROVERS
     Without knowing exactly how the plan in Virginia and other places
will work, I'll go back to my days as a certified tester in the California
BAR-90 system.
     Working at a Land Rover dealership, I saw more than my share of
Land-Rovers new and old come in for tests.  I cut what slack the system
allowed (which wasn't much since it was all computerized), especially on
the old ones. 
Here's what I learned:
     1) Most programs want factory spec engines.  In theory, that means a
Zenith or a Solex in their proper places, factory manifolds and PCV valves. 
With old Land-Rovers, most smog techs won't know the difference
between a Zenith or a Weber 1 barrel, a diaphragm PCV from a
spring-and-piston.  They will draw the line, usually, with a header or a 2
bbl. 
     Many of the factory emission parts, like the EGR setup on Series IIIs
are long out of production.  If the tech turns up some obscure bit of paper
showing that a '73 88 should have an EGR valve, it's easy to prove that
these parts are unavailable.  In California, it meant a trip to a referee
station with a list of out-of-production parts from a Land Rover dealer as
proof to get an exemption.  [See the list at the end.]
     2) If I remember correctly, the last CO/HC limits for an older Land-
Rover before I left were 2% carbon monoxide and 150 ppm hydrocarbons. 
You could make them run on those settings with difficulty.  The factory
emission tag on a '69, for example, asks for a 6% CO adjustment.  The HC
reading at 6% was about 300 PPM, and adjusting the CO to 2% sometimes
made the HC rise.  The test called for the timing to be set to factory spec
and because the computer couldn't tell where it was set, I often retarded it
to get the HC to come down.
     If your timing has to be checked by the tech as a part of the test, make
sure it's set to the lowest number you can document in the literature for
your Landy.  Set it at the "pee-water" P-Mex fuel setting of 3 or 6 degrees
ATDC.  As Kelly Minnick said, a good tuneup, an oil change and gasohol
or oxygenated fuel in the tank will also make the test go smoother.  The
idle number should also be set on the highest number in the specs.  That
also helps keep the HC down.
     3) California had a limit on repairs if your car couldn't pass the test.  I
believe it was $300.  If your vehicle had all the proper equipment and still
couldn't be made to pass (after letting the tech fool around to the tune of
$300), you went to the referee station and got a certificate.  This did not
apply to modified engines or missing emission components.  Tired engines
did qualify for the exemptions.
     4) Don't go in for a test if your exhaust system has leaks.  The test
equipment in California could sense exhaust leaks and abort the test.
     5) Finding a sympathetic tech is helpful.  Don't offer bribes, but
remember that he can cut you a lot of slack if so inclined.  If the shop is
one you normally use (assuming the test station is not state-run), your
odds are better.  Good luck!

Land Rover/Unipart Smog Equipment No Longer Available

574244    Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30600001 on.
587128    Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30700001 Suffix "A" on.
587521    Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30600001 Suffix "B" on.
542410    Emission valve (PCV breather).
596384    Diaphragm unit, Series III.
596385    Trigger Valve, Series III.
574933    Distributor, IIa, Engine #30600001 on.
574245    Distributor, IIa, Engine #30700001 on.
587497    Distributor, IIa, Engine #30700001 Suffix "B" on.
578065    Breather Canister, IIa Frame #24439373G on & all Series III.
041866    EGR Valve assembly.

Jim Allen is a freelance write and photographer living in Grand Junction,
Colorado.  His "Stateside Beat" column appears regularly in Land Rover
Owner Magazine, while his article on ROAV's Mid-Atlantic Rally was
featured in the February, 1995 edition and on the back page of the most
recent Rovers North newsletter.
--=====================_799909542==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

--=====================_799909542==_--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:38 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Stutterin' Speedos

Just this weekend, the speedometer started acting up.  The odometer works 
just fine, but the speedo gets up to about 30 MPH and then drops back to 20 
and flits about.  Someone on the list professed intimate knowledge of 
Jaeger/Smiths speedos a while back, so any information on repair (or advive 
just to deep-six it) would be helpful.  I'd rahter try to repair it...it 
served for 200,000 miles.  The usual culprit, the cable, is relatively new.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 23:09:33 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Jory's warp drive

Jory@MIT.EDU wrote:
>I've been known to achieve "passing speed" of, say 90MPH in my 1974 Ser III

Say what, Jory?  What you feedin' that beast?  Nitrous and methyl?  Jeez, my 
top speed was 77 MPH, and that was coming down off the Continental Divide in 
Colorado, engine off, gearbox in neutral and with a tail-wind! :-}

Anyway, I've never heard of any speed limitations on tubed tires...only 
problems if you put non-radial tubes in radial tires - the higher heat 
generated by the the sidewall flexing of the radials will destroy regular, 
run-of-the-mill tubes.  (I've had it happen at speed.)  Despite their hassle 
in repair, tubes have their advantges: you can run with lower air (9 PSI) 
and not need to worry about slipping a bead.  If you do get a flat with a 
tubeless tire and bead separates, there just is no way to reinflate it in 
the field without that quick pop of air from a big compressor.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 14:06:13 +1000
From: crocombe@ozemail.com.au (Michael Crocombe)
Subject: Old Land Rover

Does any one have or know of the whareabouts of a S11a/S111 short wheelbase
LR (in Australia) that 
has potential for restoration? I have been looking and the ones that I have
seen are soo far from Original that a restoration would be almost impossible
Please help !!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Frustrated VOVLO Drive who wants to progress to the Best 4WD ever made !
crocombe@ozemail.com.au (Michael Crocombe)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Regards
Michael Crocombe
Salesman Extrodinare !

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 00:32:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Downeast Rally Info: Maine USA -July 

On Sun, 7 May 1995 Spenny@aol.com wrote:

>        For information and location of the off road trial site, 
>              send $5 for BBQ along with SASE us only to:
>                      Myles Murphy, 

	Just a note.  The $5 is exactly that.  US$5 for Americans and
	Cdn$5 for Canadians.  Canadians do not have to supply five dollars
	US.  (US$1 is Cdn$1.39 cents right now)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 00:36:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owne

On Sat, 6 May 1995, jory bell wrote:

> 1. I've crudely verified the accuracy of my speedometer at normal highway
> speeds (55-65) with a cohort in chase vehicle.

	How about the cohort in the chase vehicle at 90 miles per hour?
	This is a 2.25l petrol I assume you are talking about...

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 08 May 1995 02:17:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Digest exploding

Stefan scratches his head and sez...
 
> Who the f... is this vbormc.vbo.dec.com that keeps on bouncing the entire
> digest back!?  Could've expected something like this to happen when Bill's

It *is* a bloody annoyance, isn't it. But what I really liked was that the
bounced digest from the first day was inside the bounced digest from the
second day.. Lovely...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

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