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Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 00:57:04 -0700
From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden)
Subject: Troubleshooting Gear Grinding

My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse.  I'd appreciate
any experienced advice on the next step to persue.  Here's the case:

Both master & slave cylinder appear to be in good shape (no leaks, etc.).
The local LR mechanic adjusted both the pedal and slave, but (to his
surprise) the problem persists.

The known facts:
* when the engine's cold, gears engage OK.  After warming up, it can verge
on impossible.
* Sometimes 3rd is hard to find: doesn't grind, just won't go.
* oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole.  I'm not certain if it's 90-weight
from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal.

Is the release mechanism (throwout bearing) the most likely cause, or is
should I look more at the hydraulics? Or might it be the tranny itself?
What's the best way to tell if I need clutch work or cylinder work without
trial and error?

Thanks,

CJC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 May 1994 10:22:34 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: Shuttle valve

>The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly 
>that both front & rear brake systems pass through.  It has a sliding
piston.  If
>pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the 
>piston to block off the circuit without pressure.  It also trips a warning
light
>switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel.  This seals the 
>open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit.

The 'H' shaped assembly you are speaking of is indeed the aforementioned
shuttle valve, I believe. Mine does indeed have a sliding piston and a warning
light switch.

Now, my point is that the very design of this part does not seem to enable it
to do anything but trip the switch. The ends of the pistons are not designed to
close off the faulty brake system! Also, the service manual makes no mention of
such a capability, merely that the warning light should be tripped.

Can't really see the point of such a gadget though... I usually notice when
there are no brakes left :-)

Terje Krogdahl
1972 88" SIII
terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: SIII 109" Differentials
Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:01:44 BST

 Hiya!
 
 The time has come to think about getting rid of the play in
 the diffs of our SIII 109" diesel.  The axles are standard
 with a Salisbury on the rear and the usual one on the front.
 
 Play in the diffs is about 45 degrees on the rear and 35
 on the front.  The figure is rotation of the propshaft
 with both wheels held.  I think that's excessive, but
 correct me if I'm wrong.
 
 The diff input/output shaft seal has gone on both front
 and rear, and I guess the excessive wear is due to the
 previous owner running the diffs with no oil in.  The
 rear diff gets to dangerously-low-oil-level within about
 350 miles of being topped up.
 
 Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading 
 device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper 
 (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle.
 
 Any comments?
 
 I'd be particularly interested to find out why the diffs
 are so badly worn, esp. the front one, as I can't imagine
 it was under load for anything like the percentage of time
 the rear one was...  Any suggestions?  The LR is '82 and
 otherwise in extremely good condition.  No idea how many 
 miles it's done but it has had a replacement engine at 
 some stage.
 
 All the best and thanks for any advice you can offer,
 
 Andy
 

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: SIII 109" Differentials
Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:17:26 +0930 (CST)

Well looks like we're back on line after a few days :-)

Andy writes:
>  Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading 
>  device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper 
>  (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle.

I cant see how you would need a spreader for the front.  Supposedly you do
for the rear but I've never found anyone who had one, not even dealers.

When I pulled the centre out of my salisbury to fit the diff lock I did it
with two tyre levers, made sure I kept all of the shims from each side
seperate and gentle pushed the whole shebang back in with a rubber mallet.

(Of course I dont recommend anyone else do this.....)

The diff in question is from a '72/73 ute and has since done at least 120K
miles in two different vehicles, one with a worked 3.3L six conversion the
other 3.5 V8.

I pulled it out in '86  the bearings were a bit scuffed but basically ok
then.  Its just starting to whine a bit now but only if you sit in te back
and really listen.

>  Any comments?

Before you strip out the diffs check the axles and flange splines, these do
wear and can become quite a mess, particularly the driven flanges.  I've seen
them completely stripped out.....  This may well be a large part of your
problem, and a whole heap cheaper than new diffs....

If you can find them I'd try to fit leather pinion seals, I had all sorst of
problems with the rear diff chewing out pinion flanges and seals about every
12-18 months.  Some other LR owner suggested the leather type seals.  More
expensive but I havent fitted a pinion seal in....  Rear 9 years (when the
diff lock went in)  front..  ah..7 or 8.  The front gets a bit damp but
doesnt leak as such..

Of course YMMV

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: 05 May 95 07:27:13 EDT
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Green Lanes & UCR's

     Croeso, 
     
     Can anyone help me with an update of Green Lanes & UCR's in Mid Wales, 
     around the Brecon area.
     I have driven some of the un-surfaced roads in this area for some 
     years, but I am getting conflicting reports from (friendly) locals & 
     other authorities as to which roads are open or closed to vehicles. 
     
     i.e.The Gap Road - locals say closed, Green Lane Guru says open.
         The Talybont Road - does this have a TRO or Voluntary restraint. 
         The Sarn Helen - National Park Warden says you cannot drive across 
         the common near the Mountain Centre ?  true or false?   also, what 
         is the situation down by the open cast coal mine?
     
     Since it is awkward for me to get down to the local Rights of Way 
     Office I would appreciate any assistance in updating up my maps.
     
     Any offers of help gratefully appreciated,
     
     Glenn
     

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Top Gear - Judge Dredd (fwd)
Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:10 +0100 (BST)
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.co.uk>

Haas writes:
> I have to admit I was disappointed in Top Gear's coverage - but this is a
> general trend.  It seems to me that about 2 or 3 year's ago the program began to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> prosaic of the majority of cars reviewed.  Did this change coincide with the
> departure of William Woolard, I wonder?

No the departure of Tom Ross (former Producer).

-- 
 _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
 /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
/  \_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS 
Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

------------------------------

Date: 05 May 95 08:46:29 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Trailer Hitch

Russ:

I use my D90 for towing a U.S. Army M-416 utility trailer (for some reason, I
can't bring myself to fill the back with manure yet) which uses a NATO-spec
pintle hitch.  This works great for a couple of reasons... one is strength the
other is ability to function off-road.  There is a great picture of a 109 towing
an M-416 in the latest Aluminum Workhorse, BTW.

My solution to the D90 hitch (which is mounted too LOW for a useful off-road
trailer which has it's neck about 20" off the ground) was to buy a J.C. Whitney
adapter ($40) that plugs into the Class III box but has a plate on the end to
mount a pintle.  You pull a pin and the whole unit pulls out of the back for
storage and leaves your ground clearance in good shape.  You can even pull the
whole step bumperette off, but I doubt I'll do that any time soon.

I just finished restoring my NATO Pintle (so it would not look out of place on
shiny D90) and the mount is perfect.

Nice thing about this particular pintle is that it is *made* for off-road use
and when you pull a pin out it rotates 360 degrees, allowing your trailer to
follow you into some really hairy places.  I have had it behind my 88 in places
that would have ripped a ball right off.

The final benefit is that the massive hunk of black metal, protruding several
inches further out than the spare has managed to be intimidating enough to keep
the &*)^ little skateboard cars from tailgating as much.

Sorry to hear about your D90... Hope it gets back together soon.

Cheers, 

Pierce

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 06:49:52 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Chris's Gearbox problems

Let's see if this list is working now;

Chris asked re gearbox problems:

>My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse.  I'd appreciate
>any experienced advice on the next step to persue.

Since there is no syncro in any of these gears mentioned, this isn't that 
unusual if you aren't matching the gear-engine speeds and double clutching 
when shifting or shifting quicky.

>* when the engine's cold, gears engage OK.  After warming up, it can verge
>on impossible.

Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the flex hose is expanding once it gets 
warmed up, or the clutch master or slave seals fail when warm.

>* oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole.  I'm not certain if it's 90-weight
>from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal.

Touch your finger to it and smell it.  Gear oil has a funky sulphury smell.  
Engine oil smells like, well engine oil.

Good luck!

Bill

maloney@wings.atmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 95 14:59:45 MET DST
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <"vbormc::mailer-daemon"@essb.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Returned mail: Service unavailable

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
While talking to theyak.ilo.dec.com:
>>> DATA
<<< 552 Mail Action aborted - exceeded storage allocation
554 <jmurphy@theyak.ilo.dec.com>... Service unavailable

   ----- Recipients of this delivery -----
Bounced, cannot deliver:
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 [deleted]
------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 09:23:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error (fwd)

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

--QCT22169.799618355/transfer.stratus.com
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-ID: <Pine.A32.3.91.950505092310.165131C@moose.uvm.edu>

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 16:12:35 -0400
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@transfer.stratus.com>
Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error

The original message was received at Tue, 2 May 1995 11:04:57 -0400
from moose.uvm.edu [132.198.101.60]

   ----- The following addresses had delivery problems -----
<lro@team.net>  (unrecoverable error)

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
554 <lro@team.net>... Remote protocol error

   ----- Original message follows -----

--QCT22169.799618355/transfer.stratus.com
Content-Type: MESSAGE/RFC822
Content-ID: <Pine.A32.3.91.950505092310.165131D@moose.uvm.edu>

Date: Tue, 2 May 1995 11:04:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: UK people
Message-ID: <Pine.A32.3.91.950502110115.114673A-100000@moose.uvm.edu>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I'm looking for assistance in purchasing parts directly from UK Land 
Rover suppliers - specifically sundry items that somehow get marked up in 
price 10 fold here in the US - anyone interested in helping me?  I'd 
really just like to get their phone numbers (and even part numbers so 
that I can be prepared when I call) and price quotes.  Please email me 
directly if you might be able to help - as I haven't received the digest 
for days... Thanks in advance
Frank Twarog
Vermont, USA

--QCT22169.799618355/transfer.stratus.com--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 09:02:00 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: Transmission ????'s

Hi all,

Perhaps some of you will recall that I am having a LR produced for me by a
company back east.  

Well, it has been offered as an option to me as to what kind of transmission is
going to be put in this vehicle (coil sprung 110, V8).  My wife and I are
leaning towards the automatic ZF transmission as offered in the Discovery. 
Initially I was hesitant to agree to an automatic, being raised on manual
transmissions.

After test driving a Disco with the 4-speed automatic I was pretty much sold on
it.  Taking into account this is going to be a RHD, and we are expecting our
first child this July we thought it would just be easier all around to have an
automatic.

However- after reading various posts on the list regarding the fail-rate of the
Disco tranny I am having serious second thoughts.  Are the posts I'm reading
just the normal fail-rate for a mass produced item like a transmission, or are
there serious defects I should know about before making my choice?

I, for one, know that I could switch to RHD manual tranny (it would be the 5
speed offered in teh 110/90), with no problems, and a wondering if it will just
be better in the long run to get the 5-speed.

If anyone has any information regarding the ZF tranny offered in the Disco and
how it will perform in the long run, I would be very appreciative.

Also, if anyone has info on the dependability of the 5-speed in the 110/90,
that would also be a tremendous help.

thanks,

Michael

PS  '66 88 Still for sale

------------------------------

Date: 5 May 1995 08:04:59 U
From: "Guzelis.Pete" <guzelis.pete@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I'm about to purchase a winch for my '94 Disco. Am working on a source for a
front mounted receiver unit. I know that Warn makes one but they want $175 US
which seems a little stiff. I like the idea of the portability of a removable
winch (I think). Can use on the back end if I ever need to pull myself out
backwwards. Any pitfalls? Ideas appreciated. Thanks. I live in sunny (Ha Ha)
Long Beach, Ca.
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com on Fri, May 5, 1995 1:21 AM
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
File(s): The Land Rover Owner Daily Dige

Text too big (>32K). See enclosure.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:05 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: More questions from a Newer Owner

I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love
it!  I do have a few questions about it.

1. When I go to the store to get gear oil, they have 75W-90, or
85W-140, or something else like that.  What should I use?  Which
brands are best?  What about synthetics?

2. I got a flat in one of the tires.  The man at the tire store
noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires.  He said off road it
is better not to have tubes.  The PO said he put tubes in because he
thought it was better for off road. What is you experience?

3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even
the insurance company thought so at first.  They finally decided to
call it a Range Rover.)

4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm.
How feasible is this?  (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know
they are mutually exclusive options).

I experienced joy the first day I drove to work.  I passed a convoy of
two Discoverys and a Range Rover.  Got enthusiastic waves from all of
them.  

I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my
local USGS topo map.  I spent most of the day after work yesterday
working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked
like great campsites.  I love this vehicle!

James Howard
1972 SIII
Flagstaff, Arizona, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:29:10 PDT
From: grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.))
Subject: 51 Series I for sale 

Posted this on Tuesday but got bounced.  Not sure
if it has been sold or not since then.

Subject: 1951 Series I for Sale

I came across a '51 Series I  80" for sale in Victoria B.C. Canada.
The owner claims it has 23000 mi on everything but the engine which
is out of a '57 109. The engine needs some work but the frame / body
is solid. He is asking C$3000. phone # 604-472-2953.
I wish I had space for a project like this. I might go see it next
week if it is still around. 
Hope this makes it to the list as I havent received  digest 
since last Friday. 

gordon

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner
Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:04:45 PDT

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> 85W-140, or something else like that.  What should I use?  Which
> brands are best?  What about synthetics?
I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out
over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter
in the summer. Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think
the synth runs out faster than the water can run in.
If you can keep it off the garage floor, and can afford it
synthetics are the best
> 2. I got a flat in one of the tires.  The man at the tire store
> noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires.  He said off road it
> is better not to have tubes.  The PO said he put tubes in because he
> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience?

Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires.
> 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even
> the insurance company thought so at first.  They finally decided to
> call it a Range Rover.)
> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience?
I ran into that problem a AAA trying to get some dents out of
my d-90. Since they have the checkbook, it is probably better
that they don't know what it is. (they can`t make an estimate)
> 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even
ooj
> 4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm.
> How feasible is this?  (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know
> they are mutually exclusive options).
Dealing with my father is also mutually exclusive, but I would just
tell him to buy his own land rover....
> I experienced joy the first day I drove to work.  I passed a convoy of
> two Discoverys and a Range Rover.  Got enthusiastic waves from all of
> them.  
> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience?
Must have been a Rover Ralley
> I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my
> local USGS topo map.  I spent most of the day after work yesterday
> working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked
> like great campsites.  I love this vehicle!

I also have camped in some barely accessible places. At least that is
what I try to tell my friends when it takes a couple of days to
extract my truck...

> James Howard
> 1972 SIII
> Flagstaff, Arizona, USA
> like great campsites.  I love this vehicle!

Welcome to the group. Just don't pay too much attention us.
After all it is not every truck that will continue to run after
a bunch of stupid home mechanics spend all weekend rebuilding 
something that they vaguely understand....

Russ Burns
94 D-90
91 R-Rover

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 12:18:32 -0500
Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner

> I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love
> it!  I do have a few questions about it.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> the insurance company thought so at first.  They finally decided to
> call it a Range Rover.)

Ooh! I hope they don't base your insurance on Range Rovers. That might
be like having your Ford pick up insurance based on Explorers. More
expensive vehicle = more expensive insurance. I'd check this, my 
insurance (Allstate) had a separate catagory for Land Rovers. 

I had the reverse problem when I had a 'Cruiser - everyone thought it
was a Rover. So I bought a Rover - problem solved :-)

> I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my
> local USGS topo map.  I spent most of the day after work yesterday
> working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked
> like great campsites.  I love this vehicle!

How do you volunteer for this? Can anyone/anywhere (in the US)? Info 
please.

Tim
---
tim harincar             harincar@internet.mdms.com
'66 IIa 88 SW            moore graphic services

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 95 11:04:18 MDT
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: OD-PTO and Winches

Just picked up a used Fairey OD and a Koenig PTO along
with and option on a Koenig PTO Winch Mod LR-592.
I am looking at mounting all this jazz.  The winch
came off a 60 Series II 109 and had been driven of the
flywheel.  This arrangement kills using the handcrank.
The other option is to use the Koenig PTO and run it
to the back.  Any thoughts or is the winch not worth 
messing with?  The winch is in pretty good condition.
I think Ben in Ca. has a Koenig like this.  Need some
ideas and thoughts.

Roy - Rovers in the Rockies

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:38 -0400
Subject: BRLRC Parkersburg Meet

David writes...
     both the organizer and one of the attendees 
     are beer distributors (Guiness for all).

Land Rovers and Guiness? At once? 16 hours away! 

This is the sort of thing that makes people put V-8 in a series rover

Drooling, :-)
spenny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:41:51 -0400
From: The Stone Group <stonegrp@use.usit.net>
Subject: suscribe  

land-rover-owner subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:05:12 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner

Russell offers advice:

>> 85W-140, or something else like that.  What should I use?  Which
>> brands are best?  What about synthetics?

>I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out
>over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter
>in the summer. 

or conversely: heavier in summer (when ambient temperature will thin the
oil) and lighter in winter when the chill will make it too thick to pump.
This is not so critical with gears as they are bathed in the stuff, so
thinner is not always better.  What 85-W140 says is multi-grade. It should
be more stable across a temperature range. 

Most boxes use EP90. Plain old heavy gear oil. Check your manuals for 
details.

>Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think the synth runs out faster 
>than the water can run in. 

I missed something here.

Synthetics are very good, and often lower the operating temp (lower the
friction) significantly. They are prone to run out of Land-Rovers, and
they are sometimes accused of encouraging older seals to leak. I cannot
refute nor confirm this. My BMW club loves RedLine gear oil (synth), but 
I haven't ever switched. Rover owners claim MUCH lower temps with 
overdrives using synthetics, which is worth trying. I find a big fat 5 
litre jug of discount EP90 is fine, and I use enough to get frequent 
buyer discounts...

>> noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires.  He said off road it
>> is better not to have tubes.  The PO said he put tubes in because he
>> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience?

>Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires.

Air, yes, but the amount varies with driving conditions and load. Lots of it 
(up to the mfgs. recommendation) is fine for towing and heavy loads. 
Slightly less is good for ordinary use.  MUCH less is good for sand/mud.

If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to 
solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and 
suffer leaks at that level.  They are dangerous at very high speeds 
(don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us.

Good luck,
Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:49:04 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner

:If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to
:solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and
:suffer leaks at that level.  They are dangerous at very high speeds
:(don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us.

Ummm, how fast would be  problem? What exactlyu is the danger? I've been
known to achieve "passing speeds" of, say, 90mph in my 1974 ser III.

------------------------------

Subject: trany for 110 / 90 2.25ltr diesel
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Fri, 05 May 95 17:39:44 -0500

Can any one tell me what automatic tranny will match up to the current UK 
available 2.5 ltr diesel engines?

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 95 16:25:22 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: re : Off roading in NH 

All, 

We set the date for our off-roading trip, next Saturday 13th. The digest has 
been unavailable recently so I'm sorry for the late posting. Hope those that 
wanted to come along can still make it. 

e-mail me if you are interested. 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 17:24:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignitions...

In response to the question about electronic (optically triggered)
ignitions, about four or so months ago I installed the little
Crane-Allison unit (along with the Lucas "sport" coil) in my '66 88 SW and
have been quite pleased with it to date.  It made the timing really rock
solid -- no jumping around at all.  Installation was a snap but I didn't
like having to cut off the pivot post for the points so I cut it to a
level where I believe I could still reinstall the points and condensor in
an emergency (below the optical shutter but leaving it long enough that 
the points should work). 

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Subject: making your own personalised toys
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Fri, 05 May 95 18:19:37 -0500

As some of you know apart from model making passion I'm big into Land 
Rovers. That perversion is further corrupted by my love for Land Rover 
toys and models.

While the diecast toys that are available at the toy stores are nice I 
find that sometime I want to do something alittle bit different.

To that end I quite often repaint the toys in my own choice of 
colour scheme. This is not a major operation like you would imagine.

The cheapest and easiest to play around with are the Majorette 1/60 scale 
diecast toys. They do a nice little 90 with a Camel style roof rack and 
opening rear door with a spare on it that has the Land Rover logo on it.

The cost of this little jem is about 2.99 CDN plus taxes and is quite 
readilly available.

As these toys have windows they obviously shouldnt be painted. At the 
same time the original clour needs to come off the casting otherwise the 
detail will be obliterated.

The easiest way would be to deal with the body work on its own, which 
what I set out to do a couple of years ago. I started at the rivet that 
is at the front of the base and drilled it out using a3/16 bit (aprox). I 
was carefull not to do more than drill off the head of the rivet , cos we 
will need the std underneath when we re assemble the vehicle.

The body casting can be cleaned with a number of yukky paint removers but 
I prefer Easy Off oven cleaner, original lemon scent. I do it in the set 
in sink in the basement (uk types insert privy here)

After about 1hour of leaving the cleaner on the toy set in a samll bowl I 
rinse it using a toothbrush and warm water. If yours does not come clean 
make sure that you dry it completely before using another coat.

Once clean and dry (isnt this the first step in every instruction?)
then select your paint of choice and mist on the paint using a clothes 
peg on the stud to handle it by.

Set it aside to dry, best leave it a day to harden up good to be honest.

Putting it back together is reverse of taking it apart.( right!

I then use a drop of superglue to hold the base to the remains of the 
stud. WARNING  dont let a small child play with this now as it could come 
apart and choke th kid if they ingetsed it etc etc.

For my purposes, since I'm not a small child ( contrary to local opinion 
) this suits me fine.

Voila I now have my own custom painted toy, you can go one step fuerther 
by adding a decal aswell if you wanted but thats another model making 
secret in its self.

I usually only do that on light colours as this is what they show up on 
best.

By using decals commemorative specials can be done quite easily, 
birthdays, club events etc.

If you have any questions e mail me direct pls.

ps. commissions undertaken, serious enqs only pls

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

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