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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:03:13 UNDEFINED

/The manual says 20/50,and while you mat get away with 15/50
/for the petrol engine,I would *never* run the diesel on it

Is this a difference between the 2.25 adn the 2.5? My manual for the 2.5 says 
10/40. I have run mine on this since new adn, maybe coincidentally, am the 
only Ladrover driver I (or my mechanic) know who has had no trouble from teh 
engine. Most round home are constantly in being fixed. I shall continue to use 
10//40, not switching to 20/50 till the engine is much more worn than its 
current 60k.

I use teh Castrol GTX 10/40 ever since a long discussion on rec.motorcycles 

where someone posted hte results of an independent study of synthetic 
high-performance oils which showed that Csatrol GTX was streets ahead of the 
other non-synthetics adn held its specification as well as most of teh 
synthetics including teh feted Mobil1!!!!

/mature power unit.The other problem is that diesel's tend
/to contaminate the lubricating oil with fuel oil,which in
/turn thins it even further.

So change the oil at least twice as often as teh manufacturers specs. My lorry 
gets used at weekends only, so currently it is getting an oil change every 
1000!

/Lastly,I dont know quite how to put this,but if you got
/sixty five out of a 2.25 diesel,you aint got much wrong,

Hell! My 2.5 90 wont do that on 205R16 tyres. (It would get to 85 on teh 6.50 
Avon Tractio Mileages fitted standard!)

/It *will* slow up for hills,but the max torque is low in
/the rev range,and it should chunter unstoppably up most
/normal hills.

Mine used to go slowish up teh Woodhead Pass unladen. I did teh same trip with 
the rear loaded to the roof with lawn sods (estimated at > 1 tonne). I figured 
it would be seriously painful going up teh Woodhead, but teh lorry didnt seem 
to notice the difference. If anything the engine sounded smoother and happier!!

/finally,dont just take my word for it.There are a few more
/Oily Wadders on the list.

Do I qualify? Pleeeeaase mister.....

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 9:51:19 BST

Andy,
The 2.5 may well run on 10/50.However,the manual says 20/50
for the 2.25,and as far as I know,that goes for both three
*and* five bearing engines.Mine was being fed 15/50 when I
got it (pretty well knackered as well),and consumption
was reduced noticeably when I switched to the "correct"
grade(at about three quid from B&Q).I currently use Millers
Oils 20/50.Having rebored etc the engine about five years
ago,oil consumption isnt a drastic problem,but Millers lasts
longer than any other oil I've tried in her and isnt much more
expensive than B&Q.
I *did* try some cheapo oil on offer at two quid from Halfords
some time ago,and it *drank* the stuff.Couldnt keep pace with it.
Mind you it felt a bit thin.Back to Millers,no problem.
At a guess,and that's all it is,when Rover modded the 2.25 into
a 2.5,they *may* have fallen into the modern trap of decreasing
the size of the oilways and beefing up the pump.So you need thinner
oil,but God help you if you get a totty bit of crap in an oilway.
As you say,change the oil more often.
Yeah,you are qualified as an Oily Wadder!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Metric hand-brake?
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:44:51 BST

Right on Charlie.My '70, certainly has none of these nasty
foreign metric millimetre things about its person.Its all
either A/F (UNC or UNF) or Imperial(Whit/BSF).Actually,
most nuts seem to be 1/2" A/F.Not all,by any means,but a
goodly proportion.No metric,to the point where I've thrown
all but two of the metric sockets out of my set,and have
replaced them with Whit,as the latter become available on
the local market tool stall at a quid each.Just need 1/2"
and 9/16" now and its complete.There are one or two B.A
on the electrical side.
Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the
S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim
years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems
on one vehicle!Enough to reduce strong men to tears.Or drive
them to drink......
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 07:30:35 -0400
From: maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony)
Subject: 1990 R A N G E   R O V E R "County" $17,900

1990 Range Rover "Count" available for Sale!  Comes with a fully
transferrable WARRANTY good for 100,000 miles -or- two and one-half
years.  Vehicle has New Tires, New Exhaust System, New HELLA Raylle
2000 Lights, Alarm System with Remote Start feature, Brush Bar, Light
Guards (Front & Rear), Running Boards, Sunroof, CD PLayer, and a Cargo
Area Plastic liner.  If you're a Non-Smoker you will be happy to know
that the ash trays have Never been used and no one has ever smoked in
the vehicle!  The Range Rover is a Dark Gray, with Gray Leather interior,
and has 70,000 highway miles.  Off-Road experiences have consisted of
only three 1/2 day trips to the beaches of Cape Cod!  This vehicle has
always been under Warranty and has always been maintained by Foreign
Motors West to Range Rover specifications.  The transferrable 100,000
mile Warranty is easily a $2,500 value to the next owner, and serious
protection against the unknown, in spite of the fact that his has been 
an exceptional vehicle, as service records will detail.  The Warranty
also includes Car Rental and Towing, should this vehicle ever "Fail to
Proceed!"  This is my second Range Rover, with number three to be delivered
on may 8th!  This may be one of the best 1990 Range Rover - "County's"
available for purchase in NEw England, and a vehicle a dealership would
sell for $20,000!  Thsi vehicle MUST sell -or- be traded-in by May 8th!
Therefore the first $17,900 takes it!  As a Extra Value we will include
a Professional Detail at "Classic Shine" before delivery!
Serious buyers pleae Contact:
			Michael Gaetano
			Office: 617-237-4950
			FAX:	617-237-6811
			Home:   508-358-7619
			email:  maainc@world.std.com

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Apr 95  7:48:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...

>Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see.....

Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old 
Churchill
(from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing 
done, 
and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely 
field-strip
the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm 
going to
do  that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the 
filters while
I'm about it.

Andy and Mike, you were right. Why did I bother to call this guy? Paranoia runs 
deep...<grin>

Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes?

Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room 
laughing
when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel 
tractor used
the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... 
-Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Apr 95  7:47:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...

>Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see.....

Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old 
Churchill
(from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing 
done, 
and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely 
field-strip
the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm 
going to
do  that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the 
filters while
I'm about it.

Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes?

Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room 
laughing
when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel 
tractor used
the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... 
-Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Apr 95  7:57:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...

Mike,

Re: Diesel compression:

I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for
calculation was as follows:

14.7 PSI = Air pressure at sea level

23: 1 compression ratio X 14.7 PSI = 338.1 PSI.

He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an
engine at spec.

Re: my engine: 

I'm not too sure this engine is all that right. it seems like the block is 
great from the
descriptions I've had, but the amount of smoke it's putting out is absolutely 
phenomenal
to see. I'm getting worried that my neighbours are going to call the fire 
brigade on
me....yuck!.

I am extremely gratified to you, Andy,  and Craig Murray in the odd kangaroo 
place for
all of your assistance to the new LR owner. I've wanted one of these beasts 
since I was
9 and now (under prodding from the wife) I've got a summer to turn this into a 
car I can
use daily. I love a challenge...

      Yours, Alan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:05:37 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...

On 28 Apr 1995, Alan Richer wrote:

> Re: Diesel compression:
> I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an
> engine at spec.

I would have to think this is an under-estimate, as the 'heating effect' 
is, I think, greater than estimated and the combustion is not accounted for.

I would think of it like this:

   P1 * V1       P2 * V2        P=Pressure
  ---------  =  ---------       V=Volume
      T1            T2          T=Temperature

Now we are assuming an adiabatic engine here, which anyone getting 22 mpg 
knows we do not have. There is a lot of heat lost through the block so 
that T2 is lower than a perfect gas would dictate.

However, you must realise that at the end of the stroke (hopefully) the 
diesel vapour goes 'bang' (or BANG if you're lucky and have new rings). 
This combustion adds energy to the system. Quite a lot. Let's assume that 
the vapour comes in around 30c, from a warm injector system mixing with 
room temp air.  That's T1. We have P1 at 14.7 and V1 at 23 (units). To 
find P2 we need T2 and V2. V2 is defined as 1 by my 'units'.

Simplify:

 14.7 x 23     P2
----------- = ---- = 11.3 PSI/degrees C  { I know, I should be consistant }
     30        T2                        { in my units. They cancel out. }

Let's just use the pressure value of 390 PSI that was guessed before as a 
test value for P2:

                        390 PSI
This would mean T2 = ------------ = 34.5 degrees C.
                      11.3 PSI/C

I would be surprised (even with our abuse of perfect gasses) if diesel 
burns at 34.5c.  This shows a 'heating effect' of 4.5c

I would have guessed a much higher number >100 c certainly. My coolant 
certainly gets hotter than that... so where is all the heat?  Even if 
something conservative like 100c is used, that puts the number closer to 
1100 PSI, which I would be willing to believe.

Another way to tackle the problem is to calculate the torque in the 
engine (remeber this pressure value will vary with fuel/air mixture and 
the resulting combustion a lot).  Devide this by 4 cylinders, add a bit 
for losses to friction, and think in terms of work done.

Torque = Force x distance (from fulcrum). If you do something like 

Torque(max)
----------- = Torque per cylinder = Force per cyl x [length of crank offset]
     4

Knowing the max torque of the diesel and the length of the offset of the
big ends, force (in pounds) from each cylinder should be readily 
calculated. This, in turn, should be divisible by the surface area of the 
piston.

NOW the trouble. I think torque is measured in a rather difficult way on 
engines. I don't think it is measured straight off the end of the crank 
(as we need it) and it doesn't account for the fact that much of the 
torque (per cylinder) is going directly into moving the crank, 
pistons, and most importantly: compressing the opposing cylinder in the 
bank. So this is physically elegant, but practically difficult. We're 
back to calculating the work (force x displacement) required to comress a 
piston of diesel 23:1 (but we can forget about the combustion now).

I'm not going to sit down with my Physical Chemistry notes and try to work
this out, it's been too long. I really need to do it with full calculation
of energies and heat of combustion for diesel fuel. A loss factor for
friction and the imperfect seals, and figure the BIG UGLY integral
equation with proper thermodynamics... (but Land Rover doesn't seem to
bother). 

Please feel free to tackle my mis-recollection of ideal gas laws, and 
point out my flaws. I'd like to think I'm not far off, but I may have 
utterly neglected something like entropy/enthalpy or any of the other 
great delta-x's I never quite took to heart.

Cheers,
Charlie
(biologist with chemical leanings...)

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Metric/SI Land-rovers
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 22:38:38 +0930 (CST)

Mike writes;

> Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the
> S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim
> years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems
> on one vehicle!

(Drum Roll)   Enter the stage 1...   My 82 stage 1 has, yes folks, all three
major systems..   What does this mean in reality?  Well whilst  you have the
correct spanner for the job somewhere, you can never quite find it and end up
using the one that fits the closest from any other system..

>Enough to reduce strong men to tears. Or drive them to drink......

Actually you tend to use shifters and vice grips a lot.  (as well)

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Apr 95  9:54:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Diesel timing

In an earlier memo, A.J. gives a wonderful description of
how to time a Diesel engine. However, having the manuals,
I think I'm going to try pulling the access plate on the pump
after draining it down and go for the pump timing mark.

How stupid am I being here?

AJ (if you haven't knocked off for the day - I HATE timezones...)

Do you think that your way covers the wear better? I'm asking for
reference...that and I'm a coward when it comes to adjusting things
without reference points.

   Yours, Alan

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Snorkels
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 15:00:52 BST

Get your silly heads on, and please point out the flaw(s) in my plans.

Objective : to create a minimum-cost snorkel for a 2286 diesel.

Method : Remove standard air filter from under bonnet.  
         Attach same air filter to roofrack.
         Connect air filter to engine air inlet manifold with
         long piece of semi-rigid hose of the right diameter.
         Upend (empty) paint tin on top of air filter to keep
         rain out and stop on-road air blasting in.

Problems I can see : Moving oil bath filter up results in greater 
                     accelerations on the oil, perhaps leading to 
                     'sloshing' round corners. 
                     Drag in long pipe affecting efficiency (why
                     would it be worse than a more conventional 
		     system?)

Replies eagerly awaited.

All the best,
Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:01 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Gearbox problems

> the other one said "it either snaps a half-shaft or the oil catches fire"
> Of course he _had_ to put on the brake at speed... The cab IMMEDIATELY
> filled with smoke....

Happened to me once with the 109 (accidentally); pulled over, quickly chucked
aside the center seat squab, removed the central seat box cover and poured a
can of cold Coke I happened to have with me over the fuming hand brake drum to
douse the smouldering oil... it worked!  Hand brake action was better too,
afterwards - it really *stuck* !  :-)
(Don't know if this would work with Pepsi...)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:48 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tire size for a Land Rover

> Also, is the 4 cyl engine really going to be able to spin tires much?
> Maybe I don't need to worry so much about digging in with the tires???

Well, they might not spin much, but in 1st low you can grind yourself in
up to your footwells in no time at all (my own experience in the sands of
Egypt). Best tread for loose sand is what we've seen them drive on old
beaten-up Toyotas in Libya: Absolutely bare (ply already showing) and half-
inflated (aka 'Telly-Savalas-tread').

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Apr 95 10:51:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Snorkels

Re: Snorkel:

Rather than using the original air cleaner, why not use a dry filter
from a diesel tractor-trailer? Most of these are already designed
for exterior mounting, so the paint bucket would be unneeded.

As far as the inlet piping, I'd just up the diameter an inch or so and
NOT use corrugated. Actually light aluminum tubing of that size
would be easy enough to fabricate (cuts on a table or radial-arm
 saw like wood) Put a flex coupling between this assembly and
 the engine, and then attach the air cleaner to that.

  Trying to be helpful - Yours, Alan

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Grammar and Young Subscribers
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 08:11:00 DST

Christian;
Apologies. It was not the intent to mock your grammar. There had been some 
concern about the "adult" nature of some submissions a few weeks ago and 
concern was expressed about young subscribers. The context of your post 
seemed to fit with the young subscriber idea. Please don't worry about your 
grammar as anyone who isn't born and raised English, who can then grasp the 
subtleties of the language is little short of a genius. I thought it was a 
bit rough though that you were chided through the digest and this should be 
enough.
Trevor Easton (English born and English Bred, strong in the arm and thick in 
the head) Vive La Quebec Libre.

------------------------------

From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 13:22:25 -0400
Subject: Mojave, D-Valley, & NV run

A group from England called Venturers Search & Reacue is arriving in LA on
May 23 to tour Mojave, Death Valley, & Nevada. The group will consist of
three 14-year old teens and one adult. (Venturers is a Teen-oriented group
which helps people and animals in distress by land or sea).

They have and use Land Rovers at home, and on this trip they will be bringing
something called a Forest Fire Engine, similar to the Land Rover Forward
Control. It is a one-of-a-kind prototype built by Hawker-Siddley as a
competitor to the FC 101. It uses a Range Rover V-8 and a 10-speed ZF
gearbox. Also has Power Lock front & rear diffs.

They are hoping to do the Mojave Trail but are a bit worried about getting
through Soda Lake with only one vehicle. It sounds like they really need some
company there.

Anyone interested in joining them for pieces of thier trip?

Jeff Stitt of NV is going to try to get down to the Panamint Valley & meet
them in his 88. He may get farther South but isn't sure yet. His home phone
number is 702-463-2011 if you'd like to meet up with him.

I think that a couple of us N. Californians might get up to the Black Rock
Desert in NV for a bit of prospecting during the time they are in that area.
We will try to hook up with them for a day or so and anyone else is welcome
too. My home phone number is 510-687-1188. 

Venturers has to be in SF by June 19 to catch the ship home.

Brad Blevins

------------------------------

From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 11:11:20 -0600
Subject: IBEX

I heard a rumor some time back about the possibility of Landrover
producing a "baby" landrover model, to compete for the market
currently taken by smaller jeep-style vehicles from Us and Japan. I
heard this from a newsletter printed by Atlantic British -- a company
distributing mainly series IIa parts in the US. Just yesterday, I saw
a news item in Landrover World Magazine discussing the IBEX prototype
vehicle based on Landrover running gear -- and the possibility of this
thing being mass produced. 

Are these the same vehicle? Does anyone know more?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
			Stephen Brown
			email: srbrown@sandia.gov
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 12:32:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Is this normal?

Thanks for all the tips on driving a non synchro LR. I don't know
how long it would've taken me to discover the trick of going into
third before back into first. (Your talking to someone who's Land
Rover is likly older than himself by about 6 months, so I never even
*heard* of a non-synchromesh gearbox before I bought the LR :-) )

Double clutch? Mine only has one clutch... :-)

Tim
---
tim harincar                                  harincar@internet.mdms.com
moore graphic services
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:16:29 -0800
Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes
From: Larry_Soo@mindlink.bc.ca (Larry Soo)

Glen_Rees writes:

Subject: Gearbox problems

>      Parking brake, NEVER pull the parking brake on when moving, this is
> a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>      of the gearbox, the torque set up in the rear drivetrain is
>      phenomenal, and something will snap!

I'm not too clear on this point.  It seems to me that a wheel-mounted
parking brake would have to deal with more torque since the differential
lowers the gearing anywhere from 3 to 5 times, thus increasing the
torque.  In other words, a tranny-mounted parking break should have an
easier time of things than a "conventional" parking brake (of course,
there's only ONE tranny-brake vs. two wheel brakes).

...lars

------------------------------

From: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:26:11 EDT

Subject: BSROA irregularities

In reply to a posting from <Spenny@aol.com>:

   As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding
   a long posting on the LRO "pissing and moaning" about the (supposed)
   irregularities of a local LR club.

   The LRO forum is NOT the place for this tirade - if you have a problem
   with the local club, pick up your phone and call Jim Pappas (the club
   president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com).
   Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business
   getting involved in this in the first place !!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 21:52:03 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes

Larry, you are correct, from the brake's point of view. We aren't worried 
about the brake, however. It will not snap. In fact its advantage 
(mechanically) over the wheel brake is precisely the problem.  When it 
grabs, all that braking force is transferred through the rear 
power-train.  It's the half-shaft that's going to snap... or the diff... 
or the (unlikely) prop... or one of many universal joints along the way.

It's a great brake for holding you on a hill (except for the 
aformentioned oil leak problem), but it's not a very good 'emergency 
brake'... except in that its use for a panic stop may indeed lead to what 
you would consider an emergency.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Need LR's in RSA
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 13:43:11 +1000

> I am coming to the RSA on June 18 of this year and need to buy at least one
> new or used LR.  Preferably a 109 or a 110 in decent condition.  I will be

A decent second-hand 109 will probably set you back R20-40,000 (roughly
US$ 6-12,000).  At that price you should be dual tanks, roofrack, etc.
Spare bits like tanks & extra wheels  are easy to find _if_ you can find
someone who buys up military vehicles on auctions.

A decent 110 will cost you upwards of R80,000 (US$ 25,000).

> The car(s) will be used for overland safaris in Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana,
> and Namibia-so it must be durable.  I would like one with an extra tank and

If you're planning on extended & tough trips, where you're going to break
lots of things like axles & springs, stick with the 109.  There are _lots_
of them all over the subcontinent (from British colonial days) and you 
can always find bits (and mechanics).  A 110 would be more comfortable,
but you'll not find coil springs EFI computers North of the Limpopo!

If you go for a petrol vehicle, remember that fuel is more expensive in
the North, cheaper in Botswana.  Diesel is cheaper than petrol (a lot
cheaper in places like Zambia), and less flammable (safer to carry), but
a diesel 109 (with the stock 2.25 engine) won't travel much faster than
80 km/hr.  Of course, the roads won't let you travel much faster (on the
whole), but you'll get frustrated en route to the border.  There was a
South African "special" based on the stage 1 V8 with a big Atlantis
diesel -- I've heard mixed reports about them: they are apparently very
fast, but I'm not at all sure about reliability.

As always, YYMV (just to reduce the flame-bait potential!).  Good luck, and
enjoy.
--
   Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>       turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy
       14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA
        finger <pauln@mickey.iafrica.com> for PGP 2.6 public key

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 16:25:17 PDT
Subject: Re: Interesting message on the list...

Dixon:

I feel that I'm in Star Trek at some tribunal.. but anyway. Some answers? No 
problem. By the way, would OVLR send me their financial information if I 
asked? Don't worry, I don't have a need to know. I'm a little shocked at the 
fact that the BSROA's confidentiality is assumed to be public domain. Again, 
this information is available to all members in good standing. Spenny joined 
the club at Owl's head for a half year membership. His membership kit included 
two decals (2.00), once cloth patch (4.25), one three-ring binder (1.90), and 
three newsletters (3.80 each including postage). That is $19.55 for a 
half-year membership. We have chosen our club format and newsletter format 
early on. It works for us. Not everyone. We don't expect all clubs to be 
structured or formatted the same way and none of them are. They're ALL 
different. Is that wrong? The club's expenses are clearly in line with our 
revenues. Money in the black is largely due to advertising differentials 
and/or donations/raffles, etc. All of which we solicit from advertisers before 
each major event. Without them, we would barely meet expenses. Of our 250 
members,
we have some 15-20 gratis memberships.

Anyway.

1- $5000 on advertising. Please understand (and I think that this will clear 
up most of the confusion) that these are names that we picked as HEADER names 
for account name groups. In our case, ADVERTISING includes the accounts media 
(film, tape), Wearguard 
(club clothes), two accounts for Club patches and decals, and event plaques 
and name tags. These are expensed accounts offset by revenues from various 
accounts such as dues, advertising, direct event payments, etc.

2- $1900 for Travel & Entertainment - again, an expense accout Header label. 
Includes accounts for renting lodging, B&B's, supplies for various Club 
Parties/events - i.e. Xmas party liquor, prepaid  tuition (the biggie in May 
and yes, it WAS AT THE ARC!) for David Bowyer's Off Road School - which had to 
be paid up front! Again, these expenses were recovered from general revenues 
and/or by direct repayment from member reimbursements for attending the ARC.

3- Printing/postage. Printing costs under Publications, and postage costs (and 
yes, we DO have/rent a Pitney Bowes machine which we use for flyer mailings - 
this expense account under OFFICE SUPPLIES. The mailing of the newsletter 
(external postage) is shown this same account group as well. By the way, it 
costs us at present $950 to print and post each issue of the ROVER REFERENCE. 
Please don't try and pass judgement as to whether or not this is right, moral, 
or whatever... but that is our cost. Our printer is PIP, and our poster is the 
US Postal system. Once we get a few more members, we are going to apply for a 
bulk mailing permit to reduce postage expenses.

4- The computer was a DONATION to the Club by myself. Before we were using a 
general chart of accounts. I have never *drawn* anything back from the club in 
terms of compensation - only reimbursement.

5- We have as a structure, a system of me, the chairman, and appointed 
officers. We have not yet had a system of general elections, because, quite 
frankly (and I hope this will change) most of our members enjoy the Club as a 
resource for information and fun. Since (as you well know) most of the genl 
admin. of the club is thankless and consumes billions of hours (I rarely get 
to bed before midnight), the officers of the club have not thus far been able 
to identify enough people who will commit the necessary resources to justify a 
general election. Our general meetings usually resemble UK-style pub meetings. 
It works. Its not perfect. Someday I hope to have general elections. But not 
unless I and the other officers are convinced that the goals of the Club can 
be advanced. I have been an elected officer in three different clubs. Some 
worked, others did not. Yes, we are growing very fast - and our structure must 
be able to accomodate this growth. Please understand that I am cognizant of 
this fact and am always on the alert for signs that changes must be 
implemented. I also have a masters degree (although I didn't do terribly well 
in accounting or financial managament - that's why we're using computer 
software!) But I did do well in strategy, marketing and human resource 
management. I believe that these tools have certainly helped me thus far. You 
remember strengths/weakness max/min - I'm sure you do. So, I present my 
strengths, and try and mitigate my weaknesses. Its frustrating sometimes. 
Nobody likes to be dumped on after putting in a lot of time and effort. But it 
happens. And we go on.

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 19:47:14 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: (electric) '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (USA)

:Date:         Sat, 29 Apr 1995 09:51:17 -0700
:Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu>
:Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu>
:From: Bob Rickard <brickard@olympus.net>
:Subject:      '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California)
:X-To:         EV LIST SUBMISSIONS <ev@sjsuvm1.sjsu.edu>
:To: Multiple recipients of list EV <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu>
:
:If anyone on the list from Northern California is interested in
:seeing our '29 Ford Roadster and '71 Land Rover EVs, I'll be
:stopping by the EAA meeting in San Bruno on Saturday, 6 April.
:
:You may have seen the Land Rover in either the premier issue of
:Electric Car or in Home Power.  The '29 Ford Roadster was just
:chosen from among approximately 1500 street rods at the Goodguys
:6th Spring Nationals at the LA County Fairplex as one of the top
:10 cars present by Street Rodder magazine.  Street Rodder staff
:photographer Eric Geisert also did a nice shoot with the large
:wind generators near Palm Springs as a backdrop.  It will be
:interesting to see the reaction of the street rod crowd to this
:feature article showing the complete chain of clean power source
:to clean running EV.  Sort of analogous to parking a typical
:street rod in front of an oil well and refinery, I suppose.
:
:Anyway, I plan to arrive in the San Bruno area late Friday afternoon,
:then show up at the meeting site at least an hour early to unload
:the two cars.  So if anyone wants to get together for dinner on
:Friday or breakfast on Saturday, please let me know by Wednesday
:evening, as I plan on leaving on Thursday.
:
:By the way, the '29 Ford Roadster also has an analog amp-hour
:meter which reads as a normal fuel gauge (E - 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 - F),
:and I'll bring literature on the new Curtis unit which drives it
:if anyone is interested.
:
:---
:   Bob Rickard                                     brickard@olympus.net
:   --------------------------------------------------------------------
:   Wilde EVolutions, Inc             High Performance Electric Vehicles
:   1-800 Fast EVs                    Jerome, AZ  and  Port Townsend, WA
:   --------------------------------------------------------------------
:   "Remember, no matter where you go, there you are" -- Buckaroo Banzai
:'29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California)
:

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 08:21:51 -0400
Subject: Not LR;Lucas Lens Quest

I'm looking for a Lucas lens, preferably good used. It is a "glass for
flasher unit" on a 1960 Rover 3 Litre saloon. It is the LH side lens. Rover
part number is: 511986. Lucas number, as used by Rover, is: LU 54570912.
Does anyone have a Lucas catalog that might cross this lens over and tell of
its use on another vehicle? Does anyone know of such a reference? That might
make it easier to find. Have found a new lens (very expensive), but thought
I'd explore this route as well. The old one is 4 pieces (5th is missing)
glued together and I question how long it shall last as currently assembled.
Replies e-mail direct, please (don't want to waste this space).

Working on 'Road' Rovers today!
Jim '60 P5 (628000165)
       '68 P6 SC Auto
       '68 P6 TC
       '60, '61, '68, '71    LR's, 88"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:59:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Snorkels

The idea seems OK, but why not leave the old oil bath in and just braze a 
pipe onto the old bath and then run your hose up top.  you can seal off 
the old air intakes and now you have the dust caught in the old way but 
the air comes in up top out of the water.  I would check a tractor shop 
and see if they have a paper filter that would go on top of the hose with 
a housing.  I think I have seen lots out here in farming country that 
would do the job.  You could use a tractor stack flap.  You would look 
like a semi-trailer however :-) Failing all this why not just go to an 
oil wetable filter up top and do away with the oil altogether.Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:12:19 +0100
Subject: Welsh off road, BOSTON visit

1. Offroad trip - not.

Well, I tried to make it to the S Wales off road trial day recently
advertised here, even went to get some new Tracker tyres for the back
to boot.  Half way there and thud, crash, bang, one new back tyre
starts giving away tread like it's going out of fashion.  As I had
another Tracker on the same axle and only one spare, I decided to
return home slowly .  The tyre I changed for the spare had huge chunks
of central tread missing and had obviously been running hot.  Just
wait until Monday morning when I go to the shop who sold me this.  I
wonder what compensation I should expect?  The Trackers are remould
mud pattern tyres rated as Q (99mph).  I was pottering along at 65mph!
Sorry to those who were kind enought to send the map to me, next time!

2. Boston, MA

Thanks to all those who replied who lived near Boston and would like
to meet for a chat.  I'll be at the Holiday Inn, Boston-Woburn (617)
932 0999 for the evenings of 1, 2 and 3 May.  I might well have a free
day on Thursday the way it's going at the moment.  I'd be delighted
to meet.
--

Best Regards,
Steve (UK).  (79 RR, ex Lightweight).

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 17:44:30 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Shuttle valves

Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally 
supposed to close of a leaking system? I know it will trigger the failure
switch if such is the case, but should the faulty system be closed off?

I've just taken one apart, and I cant see how it should do that. I once broke
a rear brake pipe, and lost all brakes.

I'm a bit unsure about this, the factory repair manual is a bit unclear on
this point. If it does not close off the leaky system, what is the point of
dual brake systems?

terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Snorkels
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:09:01 EST

Andy
        I put a snorkle on my 2.25 diesel at the start of the year.  What 
I did was to move the battery under the drivers seat, as the engine bay 
of a series 1 is narrower of later models, put a 2.5 air cleaner in, as 
it is suited to using for a snorkle, then I used 2 2.5" and 3" rubber 
elbows, and got an exhaust place to make up all the piping, and put a 
pre-cleaner on that I bought from a tractor wreakers.  It looks pretty 
neat, and all up, only cost about $150, as for putting an oil bath air 
cleaner on the roof, I would be too worried about ripping it off.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 10:54:07 BST

Forwarded message:
>From mcajg2 Fri Apr 28 14:01:41 1995
Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please...
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 14:01:41 BST
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL0 (LUT)]

Injector timing.  Have spent part of the last 2 weekends pissing
around with this...  Will post to the list so the bits I get wrong will
(hopefully) get spotted before it's too late.

I am assuming that the gearing between the Distributor / injector pump
and the camshaft is correctly set up.  If the engine runs fairly OK 
and you haven't had it in bits then it should be.

I'm also assuming that the injectors and pump timing gear aren't worn out. 
In some ways they are more likely to be a culprit than the pump on an older 
engine.  Then again, replacing injectors and gears costs money and an 
adjustment is 'free'!

It isn't necessary to field strip the whole system.  My method for quick
adjustment is as follows;

* Find the injector pump and work down to its base where you'll find 3 
  nuts holding the thing down on the block.  Near the front nut (front
  = front of car) is a pointer which may or may not line up with a 
  scored vertical line on the pump mounting flange.  Note where the
  pointer points on the pump flange so you can put the thing back how
  it was if all else goes wrong.

* Learn how to re-prime the fuel system before starting.  If you have a 
  manual, consult it.  If not, email me for more stages!

* Remove air filter and ?battery to give you more room to work.

* Loosen the joints in the rigid injector pipework (there is a big nut 
  on the injector end and another on the pump end of each pipe.).  
  Loosen enough to allow the pipes to move at the unions, instead of
  bending in the middle.

* Using an appropriate tool (access can be tricky), undo the 3 nuts at the
  base of the pump.  Leave them on the studs but make sure they're loose.

* Now the pump will rotate on the block by a small amount, which is
  constrained by the slots in the pump mounting flange where the 3
  studs stick through.  Rotate the pump by a few degrees (see later 
  note for which way).  If it's stuck to the block apply very little
  taps with a soft mallett to the sides to loosen it.  Very little taps.

* There's an aluminium or copper gasket between the pump and block which
  might need replacing.  Have one handy or suffer a bit of oil leakage
  until you can get another, if it does leak.  If you have to replace this,
  remove the injector pipes at the pump end so you can pull it out.  Watch
  out as there is a spindle that transfers rotation from the timing gears/
  camshaft to the pump that may fall out down the drain in the road under
  the LR!.

* Retighten nuts and injector pipe unions.  Bleed fuel system.  Note that 
  directions for bleeding the system only usually get you as far as the top
  of the injector pump.  If you've drained all the fuel out of the injector
  feed pipes then you may need to loosen the injector end unions and allow 
  the air out whilst you turn the engine over with the starter.

The above seems to work for me but if anyone else has any hints...  Go
ahead!

The tricky bit is;  which way to rotate the pump and how much?

I've found that the 'optimum' position was usually within a couple of
degrees of where the pump was to start with.  My trial-and-error learning
so far is as follows...

Looking at the pump from the top ...

Engine knock at high power / black smoke - rotate pump clockwise [I hope
this is the right way round!!] to make the injection timing a bit later.

White / greyish smoke, particularly at idle - anticlockwise to make timing 
a bit earlier.

I have usually ended up compromising with some white smoke on idle, and some 
knock when the engine labours.  I have only tried adjusting the timing when I
was sure the fuel filters and injectors were fine and that there was
no air in the system.  My guess is that in terms of engine wear it is better
for it to plume diesel smoke than knock but I _hate_ sitting in traffic 
making diesel clouds.

On one diesel an adjustment of the pump cured all the problems except for
black smoke under severe load.

With the pump in any position allowed by the rotation slots, the engine will
(just about) run, if in an interesting fashion, so experimentation is only 
limited by your patience.

Apparently the timing can be done with the engine running, leaving the
injector pipe unions done up and just loosening the 3 nuts.  Haven't tried
that approach so can't comment...

All the best,

Andy (who should be working but it is Friday p.m.)

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: rr stuff
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 04:50:34 +3400 (EST)

Hi all,
I am new to the list and have a few comments + q's.
Firstly.. Regarding bleeding brakes/clutches, I have found that a plastic 
'Coke' (tm i guess) bottle cap with a hole punched in it and a schrader 
valve from a defunct motorbike tube inserted and held sealed using a nut 
and o-ring works wonders. The cap had to be shortened a few mm to seal well.
(keep these caps in mind if u need an 'emergency' one)
Nextly.. I am after any parts of, or a complete PTO in any condition to 
suit a rr 4 speed (pref. in Australia).
Nextly.. In order to fit 9x32" Swampers under my 77 RR I have lifted the 
body 2" off the chasis. Anyone interested in the how or particularly the 
handbrake linkages/mods need only ask.
Nextly.. I am building a replacement engine for my 3.5. It is based on a 
4.4 litre Leyland P76 block resleeved (now just under 5.0 l)and using rover 
heads, timing case, sump and efi manifold. I have made numerous small 
mods to fit everything nicely and feed it all with oil, but any 
suggestions or advice on the engine in general or particularly improving 
the breathing capacity of the heads/manifold combo would be great.
Nextly.. Any suggestions for the best performing LPG mixer/converter 
combinations to use with the EFI system? Current 3.5 has 2 ring mixers 
ahead of the strombergs fed by a landi harthog converter (I don't think 
this conv. will feed a revving 5 litre engine anyhow).
Nextly.. I seek any technical info at all on the factory rr 3.5 efi 
system. Circuit/calibration info for the ecu and flap type airflow meter 
would be a BIG help. Also anyone know if the Vitesse/SE car computer or 
manifold were same as rr... Differences? AND is a Lucas (yuk) 4cu 87314A 
ecu a vitesse/SE or a rr ecu? Anyone ever used the factory system on a 
higher capacity or hp engine?
Lastly.. if anyone needs a plug for a rr ecu then try a volksy wrecker. 
Two litre combi vans have the same plug as do some Audis, BMWs, Jags and 
Mercs. All Bosch L-jetronic systems. May need to buy 2 VW plugs to get 
enough pins to fill the rover plug, but mine cost around $2 each which 
compared kinda well to $50-$100-"No F.n way Mate" for the other (same) makes.

Thanks in advance.... The list is great.

BFN

Brian Tiedemann  (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au)

Leaks but I luv it. 77 RR

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Tails of the D-90 repairs.
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:43:19 PDT

After getting rear ended on the freeway from a Hammit, I thought it 
might be nice to get the beast repaired. It seems that the Hammit
hit me with a little more force than I realized. The bumper of the
hammit hit the top of the rear hoop of the roll cage, even with
the upper support pieces. The force of the crash bent the tire carrier,
the tail gate, and the rear panel where the hinges attach. It also
cracked the fiberglass top in a number of places. It also buckled the
front fenders where the roll cage attaches.
My wife drove the beast to AAA to get an estimate for the insurance.
It seems that AAA does not have A D-90 listed in their estimate books.
I then called the dealership where I bought the rover. The dealership
does not do their own body work, so they recommended a third party
bump shop.
So monday I get to visit the bumpshop, and get an estimate for the insurance.
Befor I get the rover repaired, I have to inform the insurance company so
they can accompany the truck to the body shop.
If I hadn't paid all this money for collision insurance I would have 
got out the glue, and the 5 pound sledge and repaired the SOB myself.

I will let you know what the body shop comes up with for a estimate.
I am sure it will get interesting.

Russ\

94 D-90 slightly bent
91 R-ROver
P.S.
I know am a firm beliver in FULL roll cages....

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 01:37:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: gen'l ?  twin carb maintenance, adju

Bill Caloccia asks..

> What about the twin carbs.... ?
> Anyway, I'm told that these carbs like to have three-in-one-oil or some
> such put in the dash pot, lest they go out of tune more quickly, and if
> they do go out of tune, then you need twin vacuum guages to adjust

I've alternately used ATF and light weight oil in the SU's on the Triumph for
years. Both seem to work equally as well. There actually is a "dashpot oil"
that you can buy but I suspect it is just light oil. As far as tuning the
carbs, you use the vacuum guage to set the idle only. If you have a good
ear, you can use just a piece of rubber fuel line hose and listen to the
hiss from the carb throat. While it isn't as accurate as using a UniSyn
it does work. Before you try to balance the carbs, you need to make sure the
linkage is properly adjusted so that both throttles open at the same time.
You also need to have the mixture adjusted properly and the timing adjusted
properly. Then when the engine has warmed up you can balance the idle
adjustment. The idea is to get each carb drawing the same amount of air
and keep the idle speed down to specs. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: D-90 trailer hitches.
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:48:16 PDT

A while ago some was complaining about the USA Spec trailer hitch
recepticle. Their complaint was that the ground clearance was comprmised,
and that they could not install a Pinto (sp) hitch on the rear cross
member. Well if they had crawled un the truck, they would have seen
that the step, and tralier hitch receptacle can be unbolted from the
rear cross member.

Russ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 14:19:44 -0800
From: rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza)
Subject: Importing LR'S

I have read the messages from many who are concerned with importing LRs
from the UK to the US.  I am also concerned with that issue.  I do not know
how exactly it is done nor do I know of any import/export company that
could help me in this endeavor.  I am looking to buy a LR in the UK and
importing it over here to the US towards the end of 95.  If anyone knows
anything concerning how one does this I would appreciate a reply.  Or if
anyone has ever imported a car from the UK in the past, I would appreciate
their response.  I know how and where to buy a LR in the UK, I just don't
know how to cheaply and feasibly provide for its crossing of the Atlantic.

Thanks
David Manchester

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 03:51:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: How long should it be?

1. I've just bought a used Tirfor manual winch, but it needs the lever
arm.  Can any Tirforistes out there tell me how long a piece of steel tube
I'll need for the right leverage? This BTW renders my Aeroparts
Engineering-type capstan winch - which lacks entire drive-train and clutch
- redundant, in case anyone is looking for spares.
 2. Speaking of steel
wheels for Discos, I noticed in the April LRO Int'l mag that the Camel
Trophy Discos appeared to be so equipped.
 3. One of the sports columnists
at the paper I work for was wondering in his column why the America's Cup
coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a 
note
proposing two theories, the first that driving a LR and taking part in or
watching a yacht race required one to be a masochist (I used to sail); the
second theory had more to do with <image> advertising, and the sort of
people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I
pointed out to him that the cheapest new LR price in our town was
CDN$33,800 for a base D90, as advertised last week. 

Mark Perry              '66 Ser.IIA 88" Hardtop
Winnipeg, Manitoba       "If it isn't leaking,
Canada   R3J 2G3          it's probably out of something."

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 05:17:38 -0400
Subject: Query resp.;fwd Msg

Was unable to mail this direct (host unknown). Sometimes I think they should
change AOL to SOL! Maybe Ian Stuart will get this via here:
----
Well, manhole covers are round so that they can not possibly fall in the hole
while someone is in there! Square/rectangular covers can. It implies the
element/factor of safety.
Don't think I was right about the generalization of winches and pulleys
though...
Jim
-------

Thanx for bandwidth,
See 'ya on the old road...
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (econobox?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 07:35:35 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels

All, 

I would like to pass this on to you all. There is a guy down in Florida who 
imports body panels for land rovers. He gets doors, door tops, bumpers, hoods 
etc. He done a deal with P.W.B in England who make these items for the likes 
of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. 

If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give 
him a call. 

Jim Cartier  813-399-2961 

Rgds Mark  

------------------------------

From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:50:48 BST
Subject: Re: SIII Door Hinge removal

Hello again

Simple question:  How do you remove the hinges from a SIII.
Simple Ans:  You undo the bolts!

But we all know it's not as easy as that because THERE'S ALWAYS ONE!! or in my
case there's three!

My problem is that the nuts fixing the bulkhead part of the hinge, which are
 supposedly fixed, spin when I try to unscrew the bolt.  How do you get at them?
And, if I do manage to undo them, how do I replace them?

I think that a lot of the series owners must have come up against this one, so
all I can say is HELP.

Cheers Ian

------------------------------

From: "KING.B.P" <BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 1 May 1995 12:22:07 BST
Subject:       subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 09:06:46 EDT
Subject: Landrover for Sale

I have a 1972 Series III swb for sale. It has 57,000 miles and is 
very good condition. The frame is solid with the rear cross member 
replaced and one body outrigger. The frame has been undercoated. It 
has four new B.F. Goodrich Mud/Snow 15" tires and a new Rover North's 
exhaust system. It also has a new battery and rebuilt transmission. I 
recently replaced the hubseals and spacers. The interior is very good 
with almost new seats. There are no major dents or damage to the 
body. It is inspected and was licensed so it can be driven anywhere. 
The vehicle is located in upstate New York and I am asking $3,000.00. 
I can be reached by E-mail or call me at 315-265-2965 after 6pm.

------------------------------

From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:43:24 BST
Subject: Re:110 Mirrors

Hi there
Had a productive weekend.  Put ny new driving lamps on the old SWB and also
bought those 110 mirrors for the doors.  It's great I can now see where I'm 
going and where I've been.  The 110 mirrors are ineded a vast improvement over
the SII ones.  It is a simple (is it ever, see my other letter) job of 
removing your top door hinges and drilling a couple of holes for the bolts 
which secure the mirrors.  I'd strongly recommend it exp. if you have no side 
windows in the back (and if your not too worried about authenticity.

Thanks again for your advice folks.

Ian

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Poor Hamish & Lanchlen's Landy
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 10:50:49 BST

If you were watching closely,there was a shot of the
number plate.Its an "L" reg,('72/'73).Therefore S111.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:44:44 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: 3.54 diffs/speedo.

Here's a good one for you, I hope someone has tried this before.

I have a IIa 109 with standard IIa gearbox/transfer box.  I have just 
bought a pair of axles (3.54 diffs) off a stage I V8 (rear is Salisbury, 
front has CV joints) and the appropriate prop shafts.  I will install 
next weekend. This serves two purposes: A) it eliminates the need for an 
overdrive and strengthens the axles (I had an old Rover car axle in back) 
and B) it prepares me for eventual big engine upgrade when I take this back 
to the 'states (no flames for originality, etc, please. I want a ready 
supply of local parts and a bigger motor).

My question: The speedo will be out of calibration (read low) by about 
25%. I can have it recalibrated for lots o' dosh. I can re-paint the dial 
[cheaper ;-)], but that doesn't solve the odometer. BUT:

Can I use the speedo off the Stage I.  It was mated to a RangeRover 
gearbox, so I really don't know if it would work. I would need a series 
III speedo cable.

I think it works like this:

   Transfer Box
  /
==        Magic gearing for speedo cable (X:1 ratio)
  |      /
  |==[|||]=====================(|)
  |             \                 \
==               Speedo cable      Speedometer in cab.

The problem: is the 'magic gearing' similar on IIa and Rangie boxes? If 
this read straight off the prop shaft, it would be fine, but it doesn't. 
I don't know what the Prop Shaft:Speedo output ratio is on the two 
gearboxes. Does anyone know, know where to look, or have 1st hand 
experience? (I don't have the Rangie box to sit down and count the 
revolutions, sorry)

All input greatly appreciated.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:20:12 +0100 (BST)
From: Peter Aslan <paslan@uk.mdis.com>
Subject: Clutch problems.

Before my Mk2 1960 was layed up for about 10 years, I Recall the clutch 
worked fine. Now I get a Lot of Slip, I'm even having problems taking 
moderate hills on the Road, Off Road a lot of slip, particularly in reverse.

Less Slip in Low ratio, but thats probably because the load is reduced.

Is this a problem with the clutch like oil on the Flywheel ? Or rust ?? 
Will it just go away ? I am an infrequent user, probably about 200 miles 
a month, mostly off road servicing a small holding.

It appears to be the same every time I use it, not getting a lot worse, 
but then not getting any better.

So, any wisdom out there, anything I can check before I have to pull the 
engine and look at inners

Ps, Engine re-built about 500 miles ago and running fine. I'm sure I 
checked the Clutch when it was apart.

  Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton).           Louden Quill Award.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
  McDonnell Information Systems
  Boundary Way
  Hemel Hempstead                             Voice: 0442 273324
  Hertfordshire HP2 7HU                       Fax:   0442 244896
  ENGLAND                                     Mail:  paslan@uk.mdis.com 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:43:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Series stuff

I'm interested in getting a couple of things for my '70 IIA 88".  First, 
an original LR snorkel kit - doeas anyone have one that they'd be willing 
to sell?  If not, has someone found an air filter that might easily be 
attached to a (appx. 2") PVC tubing w/ some kind of water/dust shield to 
cover it? 
Also, and this is a repost for those of you who have already seen it - 
does anyone have a nice set of series 2 style vent controls - the 
turning knob types?  I'd be interested in purchasing those as well.

I'd greatly appreciate any direct responses (since I find myself missing 
out on the digest at least once or twice a week - must be my server) 
along w/ an idea of how much you'd be asking.  Thanks
Frank Twarog
Vermont, USA

P.S. - I'm also looking for feedback on the fiberglass top for Defender 
90s - I'd like to get one, but I've heard more bad things about them than 
good.  I'd really like to know if people generally find them to be worth 
the cost.  Thanks.

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Mon, 1 May 1995 11:20:01 EDT
Subject:       Tops

Concerning my Land Rover. I have been thinking about putting a soft 
top on my SIIa 88" for a while and had planned on making my own. 
Galvanized electrical conduit can be used for the frame which, as of 
the last time I checked, was dirt cheap ($3 for a 10 foot section of 
1 1/4" OD conduit) and the wall thickness gives it good rigidity. At 
first I though about cutting and sewing my own canvas but was struck 
with a bolt of genius (or stupidity). I had planned on only making a 
sort of bikini top with one piece of canvas. This would only give a 
horizontal cover to the vehicle and leave the sides and back open for 
the summer. I thought that instead of making it out of canvas, I 
could build it from heavy plywood and not have to worry about leaks 
(ha, ha), canvas degradation,  and flapping canvas disease. The 
reasons for this top are two fold. One, I haven't finished the hard 
top yet (paint and new window channels) and need new door tops and 
two, I would like to have the ability to remove the top at my 
convienience by myself. I'm bouncing this off the list because I 
figure that someone out there has used an alternative to the 
stock hard and soft tops. Any suggestions or comments would be 
appreciated.

Take care,

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Mon, 1 May 1995 11:26:26 EDT
Subject:       Lots o Rovers

Anyone interested should know of 6 series LR's available at one place 
in WV. E-mail me direct for more information.

2 SIIa 88"
3 SIII 88"
1 SIIa 109"

All have various damage to the frame but a couple. I think that the 
109" is in the best shape. They are being sold as a lot for a 
relatively low price (appx. $4000). This would definitley be a deal 
for someone wanting to rebuild a couple of LR's and there would be a 
huge surplus of parts at the end. I hate to see these things lay 
around and collect no dirt so please e-mail if interested.

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: 29 Apr 95 13:13:54 EDT
From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition for Series IIA ??

Hi Everyone,

Just thought some of you might have had experience with an electronic ignition
system for a series IIA.  After almost 25 years of points and condenser on my
Series IIA 88 petrol, I'm getting lazy and am thinking about one of those
"pointless" ignitions that I use to see advertised years ago.  Anyone have any
experience with any of these systems?  I think there use to be one called
Lumitron or something like that which fit LR series distributors ?? 

Would appreciate any comments regarding reliability, performance, etc. of
whatever is currently on market...  Thanks!

Tony Bonanno
Santa Fe, New Mexico

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:23:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels

On Sat, 29 Apr 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:

> of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. 
> If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Jim Cartier  813-399-2961 
> Rgds Mark  
I can vouch with you on that, Mark.  Jim is doing a *whole bunch* of work 
on the moose for me, and he is a terrific guy, very knowledgable, with 
lotz 'o spares...

happy roverin'
steve
swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
'78 III 88 "Moose"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:30:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Re: How long should it be?

> coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a 
> note
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> second theory had more to do with <image> advertising, and the sort of
> people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I
I have heard that LR sponsors a racing venue in the UK that is supposed 
to be relatively cool... Anyone with any experience? 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:27:29 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: "Optronic" Ignition

     I installed a Luminition a few years back, having seen it carried by 
     Rovers North for some time.  It uses an electronic eye and a spinning 
     beam chopper under the distributor cap to send spark to the proper 
     wire.  I remember the advert saying "as used in the Scorpion light 
     tank" or some such.  Only complication to installation is sawing off a 
     brass post in the distributor housing, and changing to negative earth 
     if your car is as old as mine.  
     
     Hank

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:54:00 CDT
From: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman)
Subject: Looking for  "?"

Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me
to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request,
thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to
buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about 
these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking
others for any information they may have or for any suggestions
were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one
in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis,
MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help
please let me know.
Benjamin J. Freeman
13739-Linden Ave. N. #C-102
Seattle,  WA  98133
(206)365-3514
or e-mail me directly at: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu
Again I'll mention that he is looking to buy but will also trade
as well.
Well thanks very much for any informantion you can help with.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:53:27 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Hand throttle with aftermarket carb

     All,
     
     Has anyone managed to install a Weber 2-bbl carb and retain the hand 
     throttle function on a Series vehicle?  Or is this combination 
     mutually exclusive without considerable engineering/tinkering?  My 
     Weber has been in for some years, gives me very creditable 
     mileage/power despite what seems to be a rob-power-to-save-gas 
     reputation.
     
     Hank
     1960 Series II petrol (LHD)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:08:03 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: BSROA irregularities 

I'd have to disagree with this post. I think Spencer's queries were
relevant/appropriate, and I would like to hear an explanation. I long
avoided joining BSROA due to its high dues, and its (IMHO) emphasis on
glossy folders, etc. Seeing an open dioscussion about the club's finances
and activities could either reaffirm my decision, or cause me to reconsider
and join.

-jory

>In reply to a posting from <Spenny@aol.com>:
>   As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>   president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com).
>   Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:35:22 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re: Looking for  "?"

I once saw a slightly oversized Mercedes van with a westphalia
conversion... is this the beast? It was quite nice. The owner was part of
the "management" at Arcosanti (this weird place I worked/volunteered one
summer which is trying to build a new type of city blending elemenets of
architecture and ecology).

Anyway, if he's really rabid, he could try contacting this guy (whose name
I don't have ;) Arcosanti is located in Mayer, AZ (in the middle of the
arizona dessert).

-jory

:Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me
:to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request,
:thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to
:buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about
:these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking
:others for any information they may have or for any suggestions
:were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one
:in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis,
:MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help
:please let me know.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 95 11:48:26 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Shuttle valves

In message <199505010829.JAA00268@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> Terje Krogdahl writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> dual brake systems?
> terje@tvnorge.no

You came to one of the discoverys I made while installing power duel brakes on 
my IIA 109.  Pressure from the rear most cylinder is what pushes the front 
piston.  If the system that is fed by the rear most piston springs a leak, your 
brakeless.  I think you should have brakes in the rear system if the system fed 
by the front piston goes.  If memory serves me, the rear system serves the front
brakes on a 109 and the rear brakes on an 88.

There is a "missing" part in the duel brake systems that came into the US on 
Late series IIA and Series III 88s (through '74). 109s were not imported into 
the US with duel brake systems.  The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly 
that both front & rear brake systems pass through.  It has a sliding piston.  If
pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the 
piston to block off the circuit without pressure.  It also trips a warning light
switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel.  This seals the 
open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit.

Sometime after I purchased my '68 MGBGT I went to adjust the rear brakes and 
discovered that there was no fluid in the rear (The red light was disconnected).
I had been running on the front brakes only since I had purchased the car.  The 
previous owner evidently put in new wheel cylinders & shoes and did not reset 
the piston in the "H".  I reset the piston, bled the rear brakes & they worked 
fine ever after.

  I believe Rover added this "H" assembly to the Land Rover sometime after '74. 
I understand that the correct part is NLA.  However, I suspect the equivilant 
part from a late MG or Triumph could be plumbed in to do the job.  If memory 
serves me the on for the TR8 has two outlets on one side which would allow stock
routing of the front brake lines.

Putting one of these "H" parts and replacing all my brake lines is expected to 
be one of my summer projects this year.   I've had one rust through a few years 
ago & suspect others may not be in much better condition.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: D-90 damage update
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:58:54 PDT

Well the insurance estmate is $6K, for something I could
fix with a 5 pound sledge.....

If I get to keep all the "bad" parts, I will make out.

Russ Burns
94 d-90 very expensive, slight damage.
91 R-R0ver

------------------------------

From: ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 15:37:05 EDT
Subject: Query - Range Rover Tech Info

Hello LROs,

I am a step closer tp my Range Rover acquisition.  The jeep is sold and I am 
commuting in my IIA.  Planned for next weekend is a trip to Atlanta and some 
serious looking and haggling.  If any of you Georgia LROs know of leads on a 
good 90 or 91, please let me know.

Can some one tell me what is the proper compression reading on a 90 or 91?  If 
an otherwise good higher-mileage example is found I will definitely check 
engine compression.  While I'm on the subject of RR tech data, are shop 
manuals available from any source in the U.S.?  I was going to get one from 
the LRO Bookstore in England, but shipping was going to be 30 something quid, 
so I backed off.  Do dealers sell these to the great unwashed?

Thanks for the help.

Scott Fugate
Knoxville, Tennessee
70 IIA 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 21:39:33 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: D-90 damage update

I think you got off pretty reasonably, considering the damage you 
describe. If the cage was bent badly enough to damage the front _wings_, 
it should be replaced (they run about 800 pounds here, from the 
manufacturer in Suffolk) and they should check the chassis where it 
mounts... could be bent, cracked at the joins.

Doesn't sound out of line for a 'professional' repair.

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 17:16:12 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Nigel's Disease

Seems my Rover has once again been stricken with "Nigel's Disease."  To the 
uninitiated, this malady is highly contagious.  All that is required is that 
somone mention some unfortunate degradation of their Rover (in this case, 
deterioration of stainless steel mufflers/pipes), and it propagates itself 
through the 'net.

Anyway, I've got a set of the "Double S" pipes that supposedly were 
garanteed until the apocolypse, yet they have failed twice in the last year. 
 The pipes/muffler are great - it's the cast steel flanges that have fallen 
off.  Hopefully, I can get it rewelded tomorrow.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 18:43:25 -0400
From: maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony)

		1990  R A N G E   R O V E R   'COUNTY"

1990 Range Rover "County" available for Sale!  Comes with a fully
transferrable 100,000-Mile WARRANTY.  Vehicle has new tires, new
exhaust system, new HELLA Raylle 2000 lights, Alarm System, remote
Starting, Brush Bar, Light Guards (Front & Rear), Running Boards, 
CD player, and cargo liner to protect carpeting.  If you're a
Non-Smoker you will be happy to know the ash trays have NEVER been
used and No-One has ever smoked in the vehicle.  Off-Road use has
consisted of three 1/2 day visits to the beaches of Cape Cod.  This
vehicle has always been and is still under Warranty and has always 
been maintained by Foreign Motors West to Range Rover Standards.
The Extended WARRANTY is easily a $2,500 value+ with this vehicle!
It includes car rental and towing, should you Rover "Fail to Proceed!"
and require service.  This is my second Range Roverm with Number three
to be delivered on May 8th!  This may well be one of the very Best
1990 Range Rover County's available for purchase at this time and 
a vehicle a delership would sell for $20,000.  If not sold by May 8th
it will be traded-in, so if you are a serious buyer the time for
action is NOW!  The first $17.900 takes it!  As a extra we will 
include a Professional Detail at "Classic Shine" before delivery!
CONTACT:
			Michael Gaetano
			Office: 617-237-4950
                        FAX:    617-237-6811
			Home:   508-358-7619
                        email: maainc@world.std.com
 

------------------------------

From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 22:36:03 -0400
Subject: LROA,NA meeting

The Land Rover Owners Association of North America will be holding a Steering
Committee meeting on May 13 at Murrillo's Restaraunt near Vacaville, CA at
11:00am. This is the first meeting this year. There are typically several
meetings each year. The group usually has lunch at the restaraunt, each
person paying for his own.

Any members interested are invited to attend.

Members will be discussing the direction of the club for this year and what
it is going to take to get there. As is the case with every club, there is
always room for people who would like to help out. Whether you are one of
those people or not, you are welcome to attend.

If you would like to attend the meeting, feel free to give me a call at
510-687-1188 and I will give you more specific directions.

Brad Blevins

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:25:31 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Rattle and Hum

Thought I'd throw this one out to the list which, by the way, must be down
for maintenance or something. Anyway, my SRIIA 88 has some strange sounds
coming from it...sounds that haven't been there before.

Here's what happens: At the bottom of each gear at low revs, I'm hearing a
metalic-like rattle (kinda like something's loose). As the revs get higher
the rattle disappears. It appears to be coming from the back of the motor
right below the transmission hump (Of course, I'm the same guy who changed
the front drive axle on my VW to get rid of a squeak which turned out to be
the rear emergency brake cable)

Is my engine going to blow up? Is this a clutch going bad?

Chris

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Thu, 4 May 1995 13:45:52 EDT
Subject:       BRLRC Parkersburg Meet

I would like to know wether anyone out there in cyberspace is going 
to the BRLRC off-road meet in Parkersburg, WV this weekend. If you 
need information on the event please e-mail direct. This should be a 
serious off-road trip considering the amount of rain in the area and 
the famous red clay of the area. The organizers expect over 40 land 
rovers to attend and, as a side, both the organizer and one of the 
attendees are beer distributors (Guiness for all).

See you there

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 16:49:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Series stuff

For the snorkel top piece (filter) go to what we up in Canada call a "speed" 
shop and get a single barrel chrome air filter housing commonly use on 
the Rochester carbs of the 1960s.  It comes with a paper filter and it 
will fit inside the same diameter hose the Land Rover uses on the oil 
bath.  For hose you can use the cloths dryer type with the spring 
interior support and plastic outer layer but you will have to go to a 
store that sells heater duct since dryer vent hose is too large.  
Stainless clamps will complete the job.  You can clamp a piece of 
stainless into the top clamp that fits into the small elongated slot on 
the rain gutter just over the drivers front window.  I mentioned to 
someone else on the net that the old Ser I oil bath with the side mounted 
air intake pipe would make a great filter at the bottom of all this.  It 
has an outlet hose and a side mounted inlet pipe.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 19:27:06 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Speedo

I think we have a server problem, but here goes.  Using the calculation 
Daryl provided, R1/4.7*3.54=R2, I find that I need a speedometer with a 
1060 ratio. Now, is there a way to find out what used what as far as old 
speedometers go? I didn't see it as a FAQ (I doubt it would or should be).

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 15:47:27 -0400
From: afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory)
Subject: 88" P.U.Cab brace

        Attention U.K. Rover bretherin (or sisterin)....
        Anyone nearby Craddocks or another reputable Land Rover boneyard
willing to ring up and inquire whether the following part for my '65 88" is
available: Part no. 330767.
        This is a brace which supports the rear of a pick-up cab as attached
on an 88". Before resorting to costly fabrication, I was wondering if I
could still bag the genuine article. 
        Also, kudos to fellow LROnetters Tom Rowe and Tom Spoto in the
States, Dixon Kenner in Canada who have been invaluably helpful by their
guidance in this this matter. Thanks guys. 
                                                --Paul, in Maine where
blackflies are                                                         now
workin' up an appetite.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 May 95  8:18:15 EDT
Subject: Where can I buy an Acoustikit in the US?

Greetings to the aluminum assemblage...

In speaking with another august member of this group, I learned of
a wondrous thing called an Acoustikit - adhesive sound-deadening
pads for Land Rovers. As the Diesel pickup I'm working on is to be
my daily driver and I want to retain what's left of my hearing...8*), I
would really like to purchase one of these kits, or materials to make
one.

Anybody?   Yours, Alan

------------------------------

From: REDCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 21:50:13 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe lro digest

unsubscribe lro digest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:04:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Austin Parts

Since so many parts of the Austin Marina fit Land Rover and I suspect for 
less money, does anyone out there know of a specialty source of Austin 
Parts preferably in N.A. but U.K.  would be OK as well. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 23:01:42 -0400
Subject: no LRO digest

No LRO digest has been delivered since last Friday (April 28). Is this
something abnormal???????

Cheers

Chris

------------------------------

Subject: def 90 4 sale
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Thu, 04 May 95 19:47:19 -0500

Def 90 for sale

lhd 2.5 diesel soft top, road legal in Canada

10.5k

4 info e mail name and phone number and fax for details

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: REDCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 00:34:39 -0400
Subject: unsubcribe lro digest

unsubscribe lro digest

------------------------------

From: REDCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 23:53:37 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe lro digest

unsubscribe lro digest

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 74 lines 2902 [forwarded 105 whitespace 659]
 Output: lines 2361 [content 1487  forwarded 68 (cut  37) whitespace 640]


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	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.