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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 51 | Which tyres? |
2 | "Lapa, Hank" [hlapa@Zeus | 32 | LRNA lurker |
3 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 16 | Re: Which tyres? |
4 | rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A | 57 | Disco comments and questions |
5 | "Lapa, Hank" [hlapa@Zeus | 10 | Retreads |
6 | "Francis J. Twarog" [ftw | 36 | LRNA reps etc. |
7 | William Caloccia [calocc | 46 | [not specified] |
8 | ritter mark c [70472.113 | 12 | Tirfor winches |
9 | Willyz@aol.com | 16 | Wheels/Tires Series III 88 |
10 | rlarson@lsil.com (Rick L | 40 | Re: LRNA reps etc. |
11 | labranch@sybase.com (Jas | 20 | Irratic Timing |
12 | "Lapa, Hank" [hlapa@Zeus | 22 | Re: Wheels/Tires Series III 88 |
13 | berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff | 40 | Re: Webbing winches |
14 | Sanna@aol.com | 14 | Re: Irratic Timing |
15 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 72 | [not specified] |
16 | mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M | 15 | Re: SIIA Parts for sale |
17 | ritter mark c [70472.113 | 11 | Brano and Tirfor winches |
18 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 24 | [not specified] |
19 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 20 | Re: LRNA reps etc. |
20 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 35 | Re: Irratic Timing |
21 | labranch@sybase.com (Jas | 22 | Re: LRNA reps etc. |
22 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 37 | Re: Charge Probs (yet another) |
23 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 36 | Re: HELP !! RUST |
24 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 27 | Re: Erratic Idling Revisited |
25 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 29 | Re: Roof paint |
26 | Mike Fredette [mfredett@ | 36 | [not specified] |
27 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 48 | [not specified] |
28 | Spenny@aol.com | 42 | Re: LRNA Lurker |
29 | JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk | 29 | QUESTIONS ON D-90 |
30 | jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy | 46 | Calendar update |
31 | Kd4ylx@aol.com | 23 | new subscriber/amateur radio |
32 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 135 | Snow Run One, Part 3 |
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Which tyres? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 13:13:26 BST Hope I'm not being too much of a pain-in-the-arse with the volume of questions recently, but the time has arrived where we need to be spending money and I appreciate your well informed opinions. Tyres. Have spoken to a number of tyre salesmen, two tyre companies to conclude an awful lot. The question is : which to buy? The brief : Driving 2 x 109" SIII diesels from UK to South Africa. Total distance to be covered is between 10K and 12K miles. Some 2/3 will (prob.) be on relatively good tarred roads. Rest will be on poor tar or on (at best) lightly corrugated dirt roads. Worst case is badly potted and rutted, maybe muddy dirt roads. We are not going to be doing very silly things as both vehicles will be fully laden, and our whole policy is to avoid trouble if we can by going round, not over or through. Would like a good lot of tread left on the tyres at the end of the journey to help sell the vehicles on. Don't want the tyres to go wrong, and want to use tubes. Don't want to pay through the nose Bear in mind that we have 2 vehicles, pulleys, ropes, winches, ground anchors, sandladders etc. so getting stuck isn't going to be the end of the earth. So far I have concluded the following; * Don't take any kind of remoulds * Radials preferable to crossplys * Buy a multipurpose tyre to save on-road wear and noise * There is a trade-off between the # of tyre plies / wall thicknesses (which seems to equate to strength) and ride comfort. So... Any suggestions? Have been recommended BFG Track edge (sp) and Avon Rangemasters more than once so far - that is the price range we're looking at (80 quid UK, don't know what these things cost in the US) Anyone with suitable experience, speak up! If my conclusions are wrong so far, don't be afraid to let me know... Thanks for listening, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 07:39:41 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com> Subject: LRNA lurker I would guess that it is not this guy's *job* to maintain an LRNA presence on the net. If so, he's a subscriber like the rest of us, who happens to work for LRNA. It seems reasonable that he does not want to become a lightning rod for hundreds of good ideas, gripes, personnal problems, stalkers, or whatever because of this affiliation, as may have already started. (Sounds like good headwork on his part.) LRNA *should* maintain a formal, corporate infohighway presence to receive all of the above and whatever other praise or abuse that ownership of their product inspires. Since they seem to target that portion of the American market with more money and free time than brains and responsibilities (Hollywood trash and suburban yups), i.e., people with "lifestyles" instead of lives "lives," rather than the real people who seem to populate our more down-to-earth list, I am glad someone at LRNA is subscribed. They definitely need to see that a good part of their American clientele knows what an axle breather is for and wish not to be priced out of the marque by multiple power sunroofs and talking electronics. (For some of us, the "image" attached to owning a 35-year old safari car begs no improvement, and we will never send our personnal assistant out to pick up a new Rangey every two years.) Until then...Hello, Anonymous Lurker, nice to know you're there. Now about that last *#$#%!*! sticker price jump on Disco.... Hank (Series II now, Discovery soon, both 'til death do us part) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Which tyres? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 14:27:04 BST Andy, I wouldnt rule out radial remoulds easily,personally.I've got a set of Trakker 205 16 remoulds on mine,with no problems so far.They give good grip in such mud as I've been in,are fine on road and are wearing well.Article on p10 of the Apr LRW is worth reading,too.Also,the things cost me #35 each,inc VAT, fitted. Cheers Mike R ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:21:30 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Disco comments and questions Hey! All you disco owners out there, I've got a couple of questions for you. Maybe a comment or two thrown in for potential/soon-to-be disco owners as well. This is a bit long, so hit 'd' now if you aren't interested. I picked mine up last week, from MetroWest LR in the Boston area (nice guys, btw). I was setting up the truck this weekend, and was surprised to find a lack of storage space for standard issue items. The under seat area isn't useful because of electronics and stuff (what is that under the passenger seat?). 1. Where'd you put the owners manual? It doesn't fit in the glove box due to the airbag. At least my wife managed to jam the box when the manual was in there, so I wanted to move it. I ended up putting it in the drivers side door bin, but this doesn't seem like a great solution. 2. Where do you stow around-town necessities like snow scrapers, The Club, rags? 3. What about offroad things, like tools, jack, ropes, etc? My life is complicated by two kids that >insist< on riding in the jump seats. I suppose without them, things would be easier. Probably not as much fun, though. I'm thinking about hooking up some kind of cargo net to hold things against the seat, like many sedans have in there trunks, to keep smaller things from sloshing around. Anyone know a source for those nets? 4. Where does one put ones travel mug whilst commuting? I balance it on the console between the (auto) gear selector and the passenger side lip, but not when the truck is moving. It isn't stable. I've heard RN has mugs that slip into the holders, but I've misplaced my last newsletter so haven't had a chance to check. 5. Is the supplied hydro jack any use when stuck? I'm wondering if the spot that holds it can be modified to accommodate a longer lift version. I haven't been able to do any serious offroad yet, but I did manage to do a little. I'm planning on exploring the Fort Devons site this weekend, now that it is virtually abandoned. I hear there is some good fun to be had up there. It is best to stay off the old firing range, however. <BOOM> ;-o My vehicle came with only two little imperfections. One is that annoying radio buzz when you turn it on. Has anyone noticed that if you leave the radio on, you don't get the noise? Maybe it is designed to work this way, although I didn't see anything in manual saying so. The other is that the gearshift selector doesn't quite line up with the red indicator thingy. Makes it a lttle hard to tell when a gear is engaged. Other wise, very solid, very clean, and well prepped. And I'd really like to hear how you've got your truck set up! -Bob rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 09:23:29 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com> Subject: Retreads If retreads can be used on C-130s (they are), they ought to be considered for Land-Rovers, especially if the L-R is to be sold at the end of the trip. Hank ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 10:41:24 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Subject: LRNA reps etc. I whole-heartedly agree with Stephen's suggestions/opinions in the 4/5/95 digest. I thought I'd include my own and elaborate on some of his... Up front, I don't think Land Rovers are for everyone and I'm sure LR themselves agree with me - they target customers by creating a product that they think is marketable in LIMITED numbers. The price of the Defender 90 sets it well above the average person and that is the person that LR wants as a customer. In essense, if they wanted to make a Jeep-competitor (in that $-range, I mean) in the US, they would have already. My hope is that in the future, LR (and LRNA) would really listen to the Rover enthusiasts - something that they sort of do already, but not enough... Simple things like being able to get steel wheels for the 90 instead of having to get alloys (or even an aluminum hardtop kit, but I won't get into that again...) or offering the Discovery 5 speed in option configurations other than" all or nothing" - how many people think that there is (was) a market for 5 speed or even 2 door Range Rovers here in the US? I guess I'm going off in a person tangent, but if LRNA is reading this, please consider offering a network to not only new owners, but to loyal enthusiasts - they're the people that will be able to offer the best advise! Send more reps out to rallies/ Rover events - I know that Scott Tucker shows up every so often at BSROA things, and I think that this is a good thing - perhaps this could be a more regular occurance? Quite simply, there has to be a venue for people to voice their VALUABLE opinions and the internet is just one way to do it. Put questionaires in the Aluminum Workhorse and other club newsletters... make yourself visible at the rallies... etc. etc. - It WILL be worthwhile and WILL help to solidify the future of Land Rover in the US!! Thank you and keep in mind, if you need someone to do this for you, I know of one soon-to-be college grad that would love to get involved (he can be reached at this email address!). Frank Twarog Vermont, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: notes from rover friends surfing the net... Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 11:07:39 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com> >From cas@unb.ca Wed Apr 5 03:03:40 1995 Subject: Looking for WWW Site re Rover Cars Hello; I have found several ways to obtain information relative to Land-Rovers. I belong to the Rover Car Club of Canada and own a Rover 2000TC. I and another RCCC member are trying to make contact with a site on the WWW, if it exists, that does for Rover cars what the RoverWeb in Australia have done for the Land-Rover. Are you aware of a Rover car site on the internet? If so, would you please send me its www or e-mail address? Many thanks for whatever info you can provide. Tony Short Hi Tony, You may want to check out the brit-car pages located at WWW.Team.Net There are various automotive pages in the UK, but no Rover Clubs of which I'm aware. -B >From erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca Wed Apr 5 06:01:56 1995 Subject: Rover Car Club of Canada I had the pleasure of viewing your WWW pages and found our Club listed as a help source on the West Coast. That's true. However, the name you showed as The Rover Car Club of B.C. is about 5 years out of date. We received an expanded mandate by the Rover Group,UK to use the name The Rover Car Club of Canada. That doesn't restrict us to Rover cars nor Canada. We have many members in Washington, Virginia, and Arizona states. We have also just We noticed that Land Rover owners were well looked after by your www but that car owners needing advice could do with a contact. Regards, Eric Russell, Secretary, The Rover Car Club of Canada erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca Grade 6 teacher at Ridgeview Elementary School, West Vancouver, B.C., Canada Secretary of The Rover Car Club of Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 05 Apr 95 12:13:37 EDT From: ritter mark c <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Tirfor winches Does anybody out there know of a U.S. supplier of Tirfor winches. I have seen them advertised in LRW magazine, but as they are made in Germany I don't want to pay both the U.K. import duty and the shipping to the US. They seem like they would be much more flexible than a come-along as you would not be limited to a fixed short length of cable. I have senn them up to a capacity of 2.5 british tonnes @ 6000 pounds which should be sufficient to unstick all but the most insane. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Willyz@aol.com Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 12:45:53 -0400 Subject: Wheels/Tires Series III 88 Hello, I am about to upgrade the wheels and tires on my 73 Series III 88 and would appreciate any helpful comments on tires anybody may have. I have 16" LR wheels (being painted right now) and am undecided on what tires to mount. I know, I know, it depends on what kind of driving I will be doing.......... I'm leaning towards a 235/75-16 Dunlop Mud Rover. I like the idea of a tall/skinny tire for both looks and to decease RPM. I don't see many 7.50-16s available around here. Any comments? Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 09:37:38 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: Re: LRNA reps etc. >The price of the >Defender 90 sets it well above the average person and that is the person [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Jeep-competitor (in that $-range, I mean) in the US, they would have >already. ....stuff deleted...... >even 2 door Range Rovers here in the US You'll probably want to hit up your Congressmen first. In order to protect Jeep from 2 door competion (Suzuiki, Geo, etc.) The US government imposed a 25% tariff on 2 door sport utilities. Remove the 25% and you start getting a lot closer in price to a fully loaded, 6 cylinder, Wrangler. It is also why most import 2 door SUV's (Landrunners, Pathfinders etc.) have disappeared from the market. The 25% duty means they end up costing more than 4 door versions. >Frank Twarog >Vermont, USA >that LR wants as a customer. In essense, if they wanted to make a I recently called LRNA about '96 D90 availability. LRNA either really doesn't know or for business reasons has decided not to release this info yet. Anyone answering to email is going to be operating under the same constraints. Either that, or do a grave disservice to their corporation and leak internal information. If they lurk, and use that information to improve their products, more power to them. Using internet as a medium for communication with their customers does not imply increased information flow. Nor, that they will grant all our wishes. ($10K RR's or a '96 Series IIA 88). I do hope they take the internet opportunity seriously. It provides a very direct and convenient way to reach their customers. I don't expect it to get me an aluminum top for my D90. Someone at LRNA has to make that decision. -Rick Rick Larson ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 10:06:14 PDT From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch) Subject: Irratic Timing We are talking about a 1970 IIA 88" 2.25 petrol. When I try to time my beast the timing mark moves around iratically. Most will say that this is my timing chain, but here, I have another piece of infomation that is usefull. When I attach my tachometer to the beast and the rpms are over 1000 then the needle is steady. When the rpms drop below 1000 then the needle begins to bounce around ABOVE and BELOW the 1000 rpm mark. I think this is a problem with the distributor. What do you think? I do not want to lay down $195 if I do not need to. Yours, Jason ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 12:25:44 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com> Subject: Re: Wheels/Tires Series III 88 Bill, I got some Daytons about seven years ago, mud tires with self-cleaning tread, tall and thin -- great in snow. I don't know about present availability, but everyone whose seen them likes them. (I don't drive the beast enough to have worn them out yet. Noise...what noise? You'll have to speak up. ;-) Hank > Subject: Wheels/Tires Series III 88 > Author: Willyz@aol.com at Zeus [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > appreciate ........ > Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:48:49 -0400 From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Subject: Re: Webbing winches Dave VE4PN writes: >Well the webbing I use here for towing is about 4" across and has "D" >Rings at each end. I hope I haven't implied that I disapprove of nylon webbing for towing. I believe I stated that my tow/recovery strap is constructed of nylon. My concern was directed at using nylon stap in a winch. As in many feet of the webbing wrapping around and around the winch drum. It seems to me that webbing with a small enough cross section to actually do this would not be strong enough for the job. In addition, nylon webbing is subject to abrasion damage. (So is steel cable, but not to quite to the same degree.) >I guess I would rather have them hit me under load than a steel cable. If it actually hits you under load, that is to say a snapped strap, it's gonna feel just as bad as the cable. And now on to more pleasant thoughts... Keep on Roverin' JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Interactive Telecommunications Program Technical Administrator New York University berg@acf2.nyu.edu ================= My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life. I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) == == ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 14:58:03 -0400 Subject: Re: Irratic Timing Your erratic timing IS due to a loose timing chain. More than likely you've broken a tooth of the tensioner ratchet. Bite the bullet now and replace it before the chain snaps and you have to rebuild the head to replace bent valves. It's not a hard job, just a lot of unbolting to remove the radiator & stuff. Believe me. In 25 years I've gone through a number of chains. I ultimately solved the problem by replacing the mains and the oil pump. My pressure jumped from 40 to 60 lbs. and solved the problem of sloppy chains. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: LRNA reps etc. Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 12:36:39 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Francis Twarog wrote: The price of the Defender 90 sets it well above the average person and that is the person that LR wants as a customer. In essense, if they wanted to make a Jeep-competitor (in that $-range, I mean) in the US, they would have already. I have to disagree with this. I don't think that the price of the D90 in the US necessarily means that LR doesn't only want the above average income person as a customer. I think that LR would like to compete with Jeeps, but the facts of life prevent that. First, I believe that the D90 is a no hold barred, off road vehicle that is designed to last for decades of off road use. (And lets not get into the Series vs defender survivability through the ages debate again). So as not to compromise quality of the product, I would understand if the D90 was somewhat more expensive than its competition. So what is the cost of a US spec D90? According to a post from Jim Pappas a while back MSRP for a hardtop variant is about US $32k. For the foreigner on the list the US spec D90 has special roll cage and only comes with a 3.9l 182 hp V8. From talking to dealers in a non dealership/non-customer situation, LR is not making much (if any) profit on the D90s in the US--I think they were mostly imported as a way to intro the Disco. We all know that the US slaps a 25% tarriff on 2 door SUVs. This is probably before any state or local taxes, so the tariff probably equates to US$7 to $8000. Right there the price is dropped to $24 to $25,000. Also the V8 is not standard and has to have US admission controls. And the roll cage is a US market thing only, which means special manufacturing for a limited number of vehicles (2000 or so--Jim could probably answer this one). This equates to more dollars on the price. So without the cage and with the 300 Tdi, I would expect the hartop D90 to be about US$22,000. Suddenly, the LR is in the affordable price bracket for many more people. So it looks like life, the case of the D90, has forced LR to sell in a higher price range. Working backwards is ok, but if we look at known prices in other places do we get the same answer. Rovers North also will buy a LR from the factory and ship it anywhere in the world for you (except the US). I can't remember their price for a hardtop, but I recall their price for a soft or pickup top (I can't remember which) was about US $20,000 plus shipping and local taxes. From earlier posts on this forum, a shipping a container from UK to the US is about US $1000 to $US 1500. Factoring in this + a hartop(say $500), we get a base vehicle price of about $22,000 US. Remember that RN is making a profit on this price and that shipping for LR would be less because they'll ship in bulk. In any case the two answers are exactly the same. (I forgot to say it above, but the RN price was for a TDi vehicle). The MRSP also includes dealer profit and LR profit. (Oh, and to be fair, I didn't know the answers were going to be identical beforehand, I was kind surprised when I looked up the the preceeding paragraph to compare and the numbers were the same). So I would be forced to conclude that LR is not making much profit on the D90s and cannot reduce the price by any significant amount with the current regulations. There have been rumors of a new, economy, 4 door, unibody LR being developed. But if it exists, such a vehicle may have duribility and ruggedness sacrificed to keep the price down. We'll have to wait and see on that one though. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 13:14:59 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: SIIA Parts for sale All, Just bought a good SIIA station wagon, 16" wheels etc, the frame is in okay state needs patching though. The engine and box are in good condition. They have approx. 65K on the clock. Anyway I'm breaking it up in a few weeks if anyone is interested in any parts, send me an-email with your requirements. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 05 Apr 95 17:06:44 EDT From: ritter mark c <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Brano and Tirfor winches As an addendum to my previous message I have found another brand of cable winch known as the BRANO. There are several adds for this unit in LRW magazine. If anybody could give me some info on either this or the Tirfor, particuarly the name and location of the manufacturer and whether they have a US distibutor it would be a great help. Mark Ritter 94 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Irratic Timing Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 14:26:19 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Sanna@aol.com wrote: > Your erratic timing IS due to a loose timing chain. More than likely you've > broken a tooth of the tensioner ratchet. Bite the bullet now and replace it > before the chain snaps and you have to rebuild the head to replace bent > valves. Replace bent valves if the timing chain snaps? I don't see how this would happen. Last year I suffered a stuck valve on my 2.25 petrol. Based on my measurements, if a valve is jammed fully open, there is still clearance between it and the piston at all times. So what would bend the valve? If the valve jams by itsself, you will bend the push rod, but if the chain snaps, the cam will stop and the valves will remain static. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: LRNA reps etc. Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 17:40:13 EDT > more power to them. Using internet as a medium for communication with their > customers does not imply increased information flow. Nor, that they will > grant all our wishes. Yo, Mr. Rep- My only wish is that you guys continue to support the series rigs parts business.....you can make a little cash on me an my cronnies for the rest of your lives and your kids lives and your grandkids lives and..... Please, or I'll never buy a new Range Rover product, EVER. rd/nigel ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: Irratic Timing Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 17:58:15 EDT > When I attach my tachometer to the beast and the rpms are over 1000 then eluded lro-lite > the needle is steady. When the rpms drop below 1000 then the needle begins eluded lro-lite > to bounce around ABOVE and BELOW the 1000 rpm mark. eluded lro-lite > I think this is a problem with the distributor. What do you think? I do eluded lro-lite > not want to lay down $195 if I do not need to. eluded lro-lite Well, let's see.....my fave diagnosis is to do the "yank the plugs, pull the cap, rock the crank back and forth and look for play at the distributor" trick.....so why not just pull off the valve cover and do the same? Because you don't have an overhead cam, that's why! DoOP! So, why not remove the distributor and just check it out? While you're there, peek into the hole you've left behind, and have someone else rock the crank back and forth for you....look for play at the distributor's drive. If there is excessive play there then that's "upstream" of your distributor...Just gotta be sure that when you rock the crank back and forth-usually done just by turning the fan blade- that you are actually turning the crank and not just slipping the belt......and make sure you go back and forth, and not just in one direction.....ain't gonna see no play when it's all taken up. rgds, rd/nigel ps anyone going to Limerock for the vintage racing this Saturday? ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 15:12:21 PDT From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch) Subject: Re: LRNA reps etc. > So what is the cost of a US spec D90? According to a post from > Jim Pappas a while back MSRP for a hardtop variant is about US $32k. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > on the D90s in the US--I think they were mostly imported as a way to intro > the Disco. Ben, Actually, I think they are making a bundle if you pay $32k. I believe the Dealer Cost is around $24k. $8000 is a big profit. A lot of times the dealer cost is greater than what the dealer actually pays for the vehicle. A lot of times the dealer gets a kick back from the manufacturer for selling a vehicle. I know people who have bought their vehicles for $300 over dealer cost. If you could do that with LRNA then you could get a stock Defender for ~$25,000. Jason ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 18:38:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Charge Probs (yet another) TeriAnn's reply to S|ren... > > to start. The problem is a flat battery. What puzzles me is that the > > charge bulb is always on when starting and goes out immediately when > > the engine turns. So it must be charging i guess. .....snip..... > I believe that means your generator is kicking out enough voltage while > the engine is running that there isn't enough drainage of the battery to > light the filiment. .....snip..... > clean your battery terminals & check fluid levels. If you can, check the > battery to see if you have a weak or bad cell (replace if necessary). Enlightenment, from the voice of experiance... I'd have to agree with everything TeriAnn says.. Clean all the connections! Then pull the battery and take it to a garage and have them check the electrolytic level. You're "well-kept Volvo" battery would be my number one suspect. Especially if you can't hand-crank start the beastie. > Of course you CAN cheat, push start the car & take it to Sears & ask for a > free diagnosis. Well... I'd agree with everything but this last bit... :) Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 18:38:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: HELP !! RUST William Smith is depressed... > I am really depressed since this morning. I went to show somebody where > the chassis number is stencilled on my SIII 2,25l pup and discovered > rust there. *You're* depressed??? You should take a look at old Fern's frame.. It's got more steel plates welded on than you can count and it *still* has holes!! Even some of the places that were repaired are rusting through... > How do I go about fixing this ? > I've got an arc welder and gas (oxy/acetylene) welding equipment. > PLEASE I'm really distressed !! OK.. get more depressed.. Once the rust demon starts, he likes to eat away where you *can't* see.. I'm not a welder, but the general technique is to cut out the nasty bits and weld in some nice clean steel.. (old road signs, barbed wire and surplus armor won't do!) Poke around with a hammer and see if there are any other weak spots... fix them at the same time. Once you're done, give everything a liberal coat of 90wt oil.. inside and out. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 18:39:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Erratic Idling Revisited Chris Stevens has visions of Rover fireballs... > the carb is not leaking...except when I shut the motor down. Then fuel > continues to trickle through the fuel line into the carb and collects on > top of the butterfly, then oozes out the rear of the spindle eventually > dripping on the manifold (now you see why I'm concerned). Is the carb body Did you check the float level?? Might be a tad too high... And yes, the carb body can wear, which leaves too much play in the throttle shaft, letting air in, causing things to run too lean, etc, etc... You might be able to get an oversized shaft or you might be able to fabricate bushings for the shaft you have... Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 18:39:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Roof paint Dixon's reply on Roof paint.... > 109" Station Wagons had onlt the sunscreen portion painted > limestone. The main roof was painted body colour. 88's > were all limestome to my knowledge. Just went out for a look-see at the '65.. It's an 88 IIa Station Wagon. To the best of my knowledge, with the exception of the bulkhead and breakfast, it has never been re-painted. The lower body is pale green and the upper body is - pale green - and the roof is - pale green! The sun panel however is limestone. Actually, the lower body is a slightly darker shade of pale green than the upper body.. Two-tone green?? Did they do that? I say "pale green" because it's mostly faded.. The interior has the right color.. Light Green Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: D90 costs Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 15:59:55 -0700 From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com> > So what is the cost of a US spec D90? According to a post from > Jim Pappas a while back MSRP for a hardtop variant is about US $32k. [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)] > on the D90s in the US--I think they were mostly imported as a way to intro > the Disco. Ben, Actually, I think they are making a bundle if you pay $32k. I believe the Dealer Cost is around $24k. $8000 is a big profit. A lot of times the dealer cost is greater than what the dealer actually pays for the vehicle. A lot of times the dealer gets a kick back from the manufacturer for selling a vehicle. I know people who have bought their vehicles for $300 over dealer cost. If you could do that with LRNA then you could get a stock Defender for ~$25,000. Jason - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Folks, In talking with my friend at Rassmussen Land Rover/BMW here in Portland, the markup on BMW's is currently at 18% over dealer cost; Land Rover products on the other hand are sold at only an 8% margin over cost. Pretty slim, which helps account for the lack negotiating on Defender prices. There just isn't much to dicker with when working from only 8%. I guess we should be grateful they don't add on "additional dealer margin" like Honda dealers were so fond of doing a few years back. Rgds Mike Fredette Portland, Oregon. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: LRNA reps etc. Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 17:00:04 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <9504052212.AA09673@yeola.sybgate.sybase.com>you wrote: Jason, > Actually, I think they are making a bundle if you pay $32k. I believe the > Dealer Cost is around $24k. $8000 is a big profit. A lot of times the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > dealer cost. If you could do that with LRNA then you could get a stock > Defender for ~$25,000. So instead of working backwards, I went out and found the data. (this was published a month ago by Bill Maloney on this list and noone (that I recall) contradicted him): Invoice Retail dealer Profit US D-90 $25790 $28650 $2860 Soft Top, Sliding $1680 $1975 $295 glass door tops, Rear Safari Cage Destination $625 $625 ---- =========== ======= ===== ==== Total Req'd $28,000 $31,250 $3155 Options: Air Conditioning $1530 $1800 Black Paint $250 $300 Fiberglass Top $1120 $1400 Alloy wheels $750 $900 So the tarrif (based on invoice price) is $6447 which is slightly lower than. the $7 k that I guessed. All dealers of any type of car make a killing with the dealer installed options. According to Jim Pappas (a LR nut (SIIB FC, D110, andothers) and dealer), LR is making between $500 and $1000 a unit. Knock off that tarriff you get a base model price of roughtly $19,300 without shipping, dealer profit, or any top,cage,etc. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Spenny@aol.com Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 22:21:48 -0400 Subject: Re: LRNA Lurker It would seem to me from a little research that I have done that our lurker is more than likely a LRNA employee who has a personal internet account and has joined our little group out of love of the marque, but has hidden his LRNA affiliation because he does not want to have to: a) deal with the office on his *own* time. - having to answer LR questions all the time-remember how much fun taylor became? **imagine if taylor got your home phone number** b) become the official voice of LRNA on the net -probably out of his jurisdiction-definately not a responsibility i'd want. I do however, think that you should come into the open. I also think you should deny or confirm the existance an "IDENTAROVER" book for US customs. If this person is trying to keep up on the LR underground (yup, that's us!) for a sinister reason- the identabook or another reason that is quite unfortunate, but by staying in the shadows you only convince us that you have motives that need to hidden most of the north americans on this list have been rover nuts since before the return of the LR to our shores, some have been rover nuts since before you left, we are going to continue to do our rover thing, with or without LRNA, most of us are completly outside any kind of dealer channel whatsoever, but if you are going to to lurk and watch us you should at least declare your intentions and let us know what you are up to. Rgds... Spenny Spencer K. C. Norcross Spenny@aol.com Haverhill, Mass. USA 508-521-4093 ===--===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===--=== 1969 IIA SWB - The Wayback Machine Now with most of the Federally requred electrics! ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Date: Wed, 5 Apr 95 22:53:00 -0400 Subject: QUESTIONS ON D-90 Item Subject: FILTERS FOR D-90 GREETINGS, IT'S TIME FOR D-90 QUESTION AND ANSWER. 1. HAS ANYONE FOUND A CROSS REFERENCE FOR THE OIL FILTER ON THE D-90? I HEARD THAT A FRAM HP-1 WOULD FIT, BUT ITS LENGTH PUTS IT DANGEROUSLY CLOSE TO THE FRAME. 2. HOW ABOUT EXPERIENCE WITH SUSPENSION CHANGES/UPGRADES? I HEARD THAT LANDROVER PUT SOME HEAVY DUTY COILS ON THE BACK OF THE 90 TO AVOID SOME SORT OF IMPORT TAX. THESE COILS DETRACT FROM AN OTHERWISE GOOD RAMP TRAVEL INDEX. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT "OLD MAN EMU"(sp), OUT OF AUSTRALIA, HAS A 2" LIFT THAT IS PRICED AT ABOUT $600. ANYBODY TRIED IT? HOW ABOUT REMOVAL OF ANTI-SWAY BARS? ANY INFO IS MUCH APPRECIATED. IF IT IS EASER, RESPONSES OR OTHER CORRESPONDENCE CAN BE SENT TO THE ADDRESS BELOW. JIM 94 D-90 CIRBUS_JAMES/HPATC2_03@i3125ent.atl.hp.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 20:02:45 -0700 From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick) Subject: Calendar update Hello all, I have received lots of positive feedback about the calendar idea. In checking out what it would cost, I think we can do it if enough people want to participate. If we can get rid of 200 at around $10-15 I can break even. This quote would be for a twelve month calendar, finished size 9.5"x6.5"(folded saddle-stitched), four-colo(u)r plus gloss varnish, full-bleed photos, basically a really great calendar. If we could sell the inside cover to Rover's North or someone, we could each get a calendar for much less. I have been working on some ideas for the layout with a few photos from the RoverWeb. If you want to see where I am going with it and offer feedback, take a look at my web page at: http://www.netpress.com/jimmyp/ down at the bottom you will see a note that says something like "LROs take a look at my first comp of the calendar." click that to see a gif of one of the pages. If you have some photos to nominate send them to me at: jimmy patrick 437 university ave. los gatos, ca 95030 USA Please send an sase so I can return the photos and also get permission from the photographer. Any details about the photo can be included and the photogs name so we can credit the photos. cheers jimmy p.s. maybe the secret LRNA spy can buy the inside back cover as an advertisement and distribute some of the calendars. Ha! -- Jimmy Patrick jimmyp@netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kd4ylx@aol.com Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 23:08:20 -0400 Subject: new subscriber/amateur radio Hello everyone; I am new to the list and thought it time to introduce myself. I have had a 88 range rover since 1989 and find it to be an outstanding vehicle. My off-road experiences have normally occurred in North Carolina on the beaches of Cape Hatteras Island located on the Atlantic Ocean. My wife and I have had two Jeeps which have not held up very well against the salt spray & water encountered while surf fishing there ! I was initially attracted to the Range Rover because of the aluminum outer body. Well, as you can imagine it does very well on the beach, and we have not had any problems with outer body rust. I am also interested in amateur radio and ask if there are other members of this list who have a similar interest and who have installed a hf radio in their vehicle. In particular, has anyone tried the "QMS" antenna/coupler offered by SGC located in Bellevue, WA ? meade stone, jr. kd4ylx@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 20:29:21 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Snow Run One, Part 3 lro-netters: I have gotten busy and haven't had time to write Part 4 of the Snow Run One story but am going to try to put it together tonight. I have been posting each part on the Pacific list a day before I put it on the lro list. I want those who were involved to see it first. It's a good thing I have done that, too, because the participants have pointed out a few errors. I wanted time to add this note about the errata and to revise Part 3 before I posted it to the lro list. Sorry for the delay. Part 2 was mostly about the ford of the Rice Fork and, indeed, that was a day's adventure all in itself. Hard to believe that it only took a couple of hours, including damage control and vapor lock. Errata in Part 2 pertain to some details of the crossing of the Rice Fork. It seems that Ben did, after all, make it over under his own power. He kept stalling because his engine was running poorly, with a blown head gasket. But, by fits and starts, he made it. I saw what I saw of this from the other side (quite a distance) and my last photo of his effort, also from the distance, led me to the mistaken impression that Walt was pulling him out. Maybe he was just getting in postition to do so if required. Part 3, a quick exit the easy way, via Stonyford--NOT: Bear Creek is a beautiful spot and worth all the grief of the fording <g> episode. If we aren't able to have our base camp there on the planned weekend at the end of this month, you owe it to youself to go there sometime. It is at about 2,100 feet elevation and so had only a few scattered patches of snow. Bear Creek, like all the creeks in the area, was gushing and rushing, swollen with snow-melt. Walt, John, and I were all expected home Saturday night. We had had our fun with the ford and had gotten the overnighters settled into a large campsite (there are many choice ones at Bear Creek). Walt and John were ready to head for home and said so but I guess I didn't think they really meant NOW. Suddenly, it dawned on me that they had meant it, they had just driven out. I hated to leave but Walt was the one who knew the way out and I wanted to follow him. So I jumped in my pickup and hurried to catch up. Even hurrying, I had time to ponder that those who were left were a group of dedicated enthusiasts who were well rid of the two non-Rovers. There is actually a bridge across Bear Creek. After that, the first couple or three miles were pretty easy, with a pretty good surface and little snow. But we were steadily climbing and the snow started to get thicker and thicker on the road. Pretty soon, not long after I caught up with Walt and John, it was back to slipping and sliding again. We took turns getting sideways and helping each other. Walt, with somewhat more clearance, was the one breaking trail. Eventually it became clear that, if we were to continue, it would be necessary to put chains on Walt's truck. I had two sets of chains along but none that fit my tires. One of the sets I had happened to fit Walt's 31x10.50x15s and we put them on his front tires. This helped for a while but we kept climbing and the snow kept getting deeper and deeper. Our skid plates were tobogganing badly on the snow between our wheel tracks. This was making it very hard to keep control. We stopped and studied the maps; Walt walked ahead a little. It was hard to face but nonetheless clear that we had to give it up. I don't remember what time but it was quite dark by now and we were having to break the trail with a shovel all the way. We had to go back the way we came. We had made five miles from the camp but if we continued we would have had many difficult miles still to go. So we backed down the trail to a wide spot, turned around, and hightailed it back to camp. When we showed up back in camp, the campers were just finishing their dinner (we must have been gone longer than it seemed to us!!). Fortunately for us, they had some leftovers. I was lucky enough to get a nice piece of open-fire-roasted chicken breast (it was delicious; thanks guys). Jason also gave me a tasty can of vegetable-bean soup. I was most grateful for the provender (remember my thick meat sandwich went sailing away down the river, to be followed later by Jim's Filson hat). While I fixed the soup, Walt and John headed back to that other soup. Yes, that's right, they unflinchingly steered directly back to the ford, IN THE DARK!! All but Jason and I went along to watch and to lend immoral support. I gotta say: Ol' Walt's no slouch; he did it, got back across in the dark with no more trouble than he had in the daytime. Not for me, I'll tell you, not with what I'd gone through in the daylight. I figured I'd just have to stay the night, so I asked Walt to stop and call Melanie (my wife) to let her know (turns out she was not surprised at all). I squeegeed some more water out of my footwells and looked for my sleeping bag. Aieeyah!! Suddenly, it dawned on me; the sleeping bag was on the floor in the back seat (my pickup has an extended cab). Yes, it got wet. Fortunately, because it is a mummy bag, crammed into a small stuff sack, it didn't get all THAT wet, mostly just near the top. So I got it out and dried it by the fire and Vance's gas lantern (which he tirelessly held up for me--what a guy). I eventually got it dry enough to make do. I put my old Goretex jacket on the floor of my pickup to put my feet on; otherwise the toe of the sleeping bag would have gradually gotten soaked. Since my pickup has reclining seats and plenty of legroom, I thought I'd be pretty comfortable sleeping there; WRONG!! I was lucky if I got two hours sleep that night. Sleep deprivation was really starting to set in. And yet: I felt great and had a wonderful time, as long as no difficult thinking was required :^) Sunday morning I was the first one up (in other words, I couldn't stand it any longer). I went out and tried to rekindle the campfire (well, I made a lot of nice smoke) and took a couple of photos before anyone else got up. We're an energetic bunch, I'll tell you. I don't know who could match us for dawdling in camp. It was great. Looked at maps, cleaned up months' accumulation of yahoo litter and put it in garbage bags, rebuilt Ben's engine (actually, just the manifold gasket, which didn't make it sound any better). [Revision Note: Ben corrected me on this; he only loosened that manifolds far enough to determine that the manifold gasket was not blown. Then he figured it had to be the head gasket. A compression check confirmed this by showing only 40# on No. 1 cylinder. No wonder he had a little difficulty with the creek crossing.] Eventually, we got back on the trail and tried again to go out to the east, over the same trail that Walt, John, and I had failed to conquer the night before. With Bruce's D90 in the lead, how could we fail? Easily, actually. We got maybe a quarter mile farther than the previous night and found that even the D90 was tobogganing. Where's that Unimog? We walked ahead to the next intersection of major trails (very difficult going, with the snow about two feet deep). The trail on the ridge, where we would turn, if we could get that far, was not bad at all. So we went back to the D90 to study the maps. We came, I regret to report, to the same conclusion that Walt had the night before, that it was hopeless. It would have taken most of the rest of the day to get everyone just to the trail intersection. After that it would be O.K. for a while but then we would have to cover another north-slope section of several miles at about 4,400 feet elevation. If we'd had a couple more days, a few more sets of chains, and a few more cases of Guiness, then maybe. But as it was, there was nothing for it but back to the Rice Fork for another friendly tresspass crossing and, as Jim so well put it, "The devil we know" rather than the unknown one ahead (and some others which were likely even worse). In Part 4 we face that devil again... ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950406 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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