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From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 02:48:40 -0500
Subject: Re: parts places

WEst Coast British is pretty close to me, in the San Francisco Bay Area. They
had a very limited parts inventory last time I was there. They mostly do
repair work. Mike Green owns the place and has some inside track with LRNA as
his father, Michael Green, has worked for the company for many years. 

Octopus is in Vancouver, British Columbia and has a lot of parts, including
great prices on used parts. Also a nice little newsletter. I like them very
much. Their number is 604-925-1514.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 02:20:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: Overdrive special wrench

The 1/2-inch brass drift method seems to be the solution, when the 
special wrench is unavailable. Worked for me, and other LROs hereabouts. I 
puzzled about the special wrench, or various substitutes until I was told 
to use the drift. Gets the nut off, and going back on, get it as tight as 
it will go, until you can fold the lock tabs over, even if you have to 
back it up a wee bit. So far, so good. From the looks of the 
special wrench, BTW, I don't see how you can get a torque reading from 
the thing anyway. Now, I just have to deal with that awful whine!

Cheers,
Mark Perry
Winnipeg MB CDA
'66 IIA 88"
If it isn't leaking,
it's probably out of something.

------------------------------

From: Martin Richards <mr@datcon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Clark Gable Sighting
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 09:24:00 GMT

 "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com> wrote:
     The local PBS station ran "Mogambo" a couple times in the last week or
<snip>
     Could this have been the earliest L-R appearance in a major picture?

In the film '633 Squadron', Land Rovers can be seen during the closing 
sequence.  Since this is set in the '39-'45 war (some 3 years before the 
things were invented!) I think this must the earliest sighting...

Re the comments on stalling SIIs when wet, my '78 109" SIII used to do much 
the same.  I filched a coil cover off my girlfriend's Peugeot to keep the 
wet away from the coil leads (but a plastic lemonade bottle can be persuaded 
to do much the same job), and sprayed everything in sight with some silicon 
sealant meant for doing spark plugs.  With a good dollop of vaseline or 
grease round the inside of the distributor cap too, the thing seemed to run 
fine after that.

Prior to this, when jet-washing, I found it better to turn the engine OFF, 
because otherwise the fan would ensure that any water finding its way into 
the engine bay then found its way in to everything :(

Martin.

ps Yes I'm new on this list!  I used to have a 109 SIII hard top, with rear 
seats and side windows  Then the climbing/mountaineering bug started to 
require a vehicle capable of 300 miles or so on most Friday evenings rather 
than taking the entire weekend about it. (I live in Enfield, North London, 
well known for its mountains!)  So the SIII turned into a '91 Discovery Tdi. 
 Wonderful vehicle (seven seats are very useful for Scout leaders), but the 
metallic paint job rather limits the off-roading potential!

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Cables for winches
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 10:56:40 BST

I'm the new owner of an exceedingly chunky hand winch which will
fit on the front of a SIII between the wings.  The device is 
basically just one huge worm drive, and our (conservative) estimate
is that it will be capable of putting about 3 tons of tension on a
cable if you really give it some.  Said winch was never meant to
be mounted on a landrover, but the technology is entirely appropriate
for our purposes.

Our problem is that at the minute it doesn't have any cable fitted.
Looking at the diameter of the cable drum (8 cm without cable on)
I would guess that the maximum cable diameter we can get away with
is approx. 8mm.  Anyone care to comment on whether or not that is
correct, and whether or not we could get away with something of
larger diameter?  

Along the same lines, does anyboby have data on the tension required
to break galvanised multistrand cables of various construction?  I 
want to be able to take a first guess at how I'm going to stop us
breaking the cable with the winch.

Has anyone ever used nylon webbing as a 'cable' for winching?  It
strikes me that some of that 10-ton stuff about 1/8" thick and 2"
wide would fit nicely around that winch drum...

Any input would be appreciated.  All the best, Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk 

------------------------------

From: Vel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: A Connecticut Yankee in King Lucas' Court
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 04:42:30 -0600 (CST)

Actually, an Illinois Yankee in Swindon, but it sounded better
the other way...

Hello, I've been sent by my company on assignment to work in England
for about 6-12 months and while I'm here would like to purchase a SIIa
LWB Land Rover to bring back with me.  I'd really like to contact some
local owners to talk Rovers with and possibly help me out in my
search.  I'm working and living in Swindon, Wiltshire.  If there are
any owners reading the list who are nearby who wouldn't mind helping
me in my search, I'd be grateful...  and would be willing to express
my gratitude with beer. :-)

Please feel free to email me at:   nataraja@ecid.cig.mot.com

Thanks, and I'm looking forward to meeting with some of you!

Vel
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Kumaravel Natarajan                      Phone:  +44-793-541541 x5529
Motorola                                 Fax:    +44-793-430-987
European Cellular Infrastructure Group   Mobile: +49-171-854-6670
16 Euro Way,                             Email:
Blagrove, Swindon,                          nataraja@ecid.cig.mot.com
England, SN5 8YQ
----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: re: Cables for winches
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 15:12:14 +0200 (MET DST)

A.J.Grafton writes:
> Has anyone ever used nylon webbing as a 'cable' for winching?  It
> strikes me that some of that 10-ton stuff about 1/8" thick and 2"
> wide would fit nicely around that winch drum...

Hi Andrew,
I didn't fiddle around with winches jet, but using nylon ropes,
webbing or whatever could be dangerous I think. These things are
elastic (ie. a 20m climing rope with my 75kg at the end is about
1m longer than without), which means that I wouldn't like to be in 
the range if such a 'cable' breaks while winching a car.
Just a thought.
CU Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: vogel@shrsys.hslc.org
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 09:05:12 EST
Subject: new club in pennsylvania

A few committed souls are going to meet at 1pm, April 8 at the Bob Evans on
rte 30 in Lancaster, PA to form a Land Rover club.  If you are interested, 
please attend.  I understand that spouses are welcome.  If you are interested
but cannot attend, let me know so that I can keep you informed of any 
progress.

Tom Vogel
1972 SIII '88
vogel@shrsys.hslc.org
Gladwyne, PA
USA

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@concentra.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 09:50:58 +0500
Subject: hand-powered winches (come-alongs)

I've used a couple- they do work. 

How long they work for is a matter of what quality device you buy.  

I've had a good one for, well, since 1976.  I keep it out of damp,
keep the cable and mechanism slightly oiled to prevent rust, and 
it works just fine.  Admittedly it's only a 1-ton unit, but I've never
found that to be inadequate for my needs... I rarely need to "go vertical".

On the other hand, you can get crappy units that will fold up like 
cardboard.

Yeah, they're slow, they require elbow grease.  But they do work well
for occasional/backup system use.

Remember to keep the cable wound flat- a kinked cable is significantly
weakened.  And NEVER hook the cable to itself!

	-Bill  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 15:49:42 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: re: Cables for winches

On Fri, 31 Mar 1995 Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE wrote:
> A.J.Grafton writes:
> > Has anyone ever used nylon webbing as a 'cable' for winching?  It

> Hi Andrew,
> I didn't fiddle around with winches jet, but using nylon ropes,
> webbing or whatever could be dangerous I think. These things are

This is sound advice, but there are more and less elastic lines. There 
are also other (kevlar, etc) things besides nylon woven into some lines 
to increase strength, decrease stretch, etc. The weave makes a big 
difference. I suspect if you look around, something suitable could be 
found, but it may be more expensive than cable in the long run.  The big 
risk with stretching, as you say, is the energy stored in the line. If a 
shackle comes loose, it will slingshot through any aluminium panel it 
makes contact with (I've seen the results of this, not the accident). So, 
it could be done, I'm sure, but chose carefully for the job (LRO about 6-8 
months ago had a feature on recovery and ropes) and consider how to 
secure the line (good knots, shackles, etc...) before you try it.

Cheers,
Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 10:08:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Cables for winches

On Fri, 31 Mar 1995, Andrew Grafton wrote:

> Our problem is that at the minute it doesn't have any cable fitted.
> Looking at the diameter of the cable drum (8 cm without cable on)

	3/8 inch cable should be just fine, its common, and with a 6,000
	pound capacity, I doubt you will break it.

> Has anyone ever used nylon webbing as a 'cable' for winching?  It
> strikes me that some of that 10-ton stuff about 1/8" thick and 2"
> wide would fit nicely around that winch drum...

	We use the stuff to protect trees and allow us to get a winch cable
	off without having the cable sunk into he tree.  If you think about
	it, that strap on the drum will work very well if you are going
	straight ahead.  If you are off angle at all, it will very happily
	bunch up on one side and make a bit of a mess.  Steel cable is 
	better. 

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: kleihors@prl.philips.nl
Subject: LRO's in Europe.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 18:01:38 METDST

Hi Steven,

Sure, there are lots of LROs in Europe! On my way to work each morning from 
the North of Belgium to the South of "The Netherlands" (definately not 
"Holland", for the insiders) I always meet an occasional series IIa or III.
In Europe, these LRs look huge among the other traffic. There's even a nice 
early III pick-up version on the parking lot at work. 

I really am eager to get the IIa LWB finished soon, to join this crowd.  
Thinking/hoping that everything was done for the safety test, I removed
the rear drums to inspect and clean-up the rear brakes. The brake shoes 
were swimming in oil though the brake pedal is firm. Seams like the rear hub 
seals are leaking. Fortunately I have a pile of new parts and will replace
the oil seals this weekend. I assume that the brake shoes and rubber parts
will be shot too. Only, I couldn't really find anything wrong with the 
rear hubs and the oil seals. I will check out the rear axle breather valve,
maybe this is blocked? 

You will enjoy this list very much, there are a couple of Dutch folks on 
line, and we can brag a little at the national club meetings. I am in the 
progress of becoming a member of the Dutch LR register, hey, I only got the 
LRs a couple of weeks!  Maybe we're going to Norway in August, somebody 
going to the June Mini-Meet in Sweden? 

Take care,

Richard P. Kleihorst.  speaking for: '63 LWB Safari SW  "Lou Wee Balls"
				     '60 SWB Pick-up    "St. Jan"
 

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: LRO's in Europe.
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 11:45:17 EST

> will be shot too. Only, I couldn't really find anything wrong with the 
> rear hubs and the oil seals. I will check out the rear axle breather valve,
> maybe this is blocked? 

certainly could be.  comes apart...disassemble and clean.

be sure to replace the seal races when you do the seals....the slightest
groove will surely leak.  they come off easier than it may seem at
first....use a sharp chisel (it is soft metal and will break easily).

rgds,
rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 10:50:21 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: From a Land-Rover owner in London!! (fwd)

got to take that web page more seriously  -- Ray Harder...

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 95 08:21:02 CST
From: Gareth_Chillingworth_at_BRIDGE-ELONA-01@bridge.com
Cc: Gareth_Chillingworth@bridge.com
Subject: From a Land-Rover owner in London!!

     
     Hello!?
     
     40 minutes ago I connected myself up to the Internet for the first 
     time.  Land-Rovers I looked for and Land-Rovers I found!
     
     Hi, I don't know who I'm talking to, I don't even know if this message 
     is going to get to wherever I'm about to send it.  If it has done 
     though, allow me to introduce myself.
     
     I'm Gareth Chillingworth and I work in London for an American company, 
     the office of which is right opposite the Tower of London.
     I'm a communications technician for Bridge Information Systems who 
     have their headquaters in Chicago USA.
     
     I own a Series III Short Wheel Base Landy, and I love her dearly.  
     There is a great following in Britain of Land Rover owners.  I am (of 
     course) a member of a Land Rover club over here, local to where I 
     live.
     
     I am writing because I'm quite seriously suprised that I found a 
     Land-Rover home page in the States.  I wasn't aware that the Land 
     Rover had any form of following over there. 
     Our company has a vast internal network and though I am in London, our 
     link onto the Internet is in Chicago.  I assumed that I'd have to 
     spend some serious time finding my way back to England to get any Land 
     Rover contacts but here you are !
     
     Are there really that many Land Rover fanatics in the US?  Are there 
     really that many Land Rovers over there?  And did this message 
     actually reach anyone?
     
     Yours experimentally
     
     Gareth C
     
     GChillingworth@BRIDGE.COM  (I think!?)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 19:22:46 +0200
From: janjan@xs4all.nl (Jan Schokker)
Subject: Series III and unleaded fuel?

Hi,

Still four weeks to go before we can drive our Landrover...
Time for another question (thanks for the answers on the one about 
handpainting).
I'm preparing myself with a couple of books. They give me a lot of answers, 
but not to this:

How about running an '83 ex-military series III 109 2,25 on unleaded fuel?
The guy selling me the Landrover says it is no problem, but I don't believe him.
The factory repair manual makes it clear I could use fuel as low-rated as 83 
octane! Nothing about lead though. I guess this wasn't an isue in 1983.

Could it be the guy is right? Or should I have the head rebuilt with 
hardened valve seats and other valves? Will it be save to use unleaded most 
of the time, and use leaded fuel every now and then?
If so, how often?

The reason I want to know is the price difference between the two. 
OK, and the environment.

Thanks, Jan.
janjan@xs4all.nl
Amsterdam, the Netherlands

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 13:01:10 -0500
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: Cables for winches

Andrew Grafton asks:

>Our problem is that at the minute it doesn't have any cable fitted.
>Looking at the diameter of the cable drum (8 cm without cable on)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>correct, and whether or not we could get away with something of
>larger diameter?

>Along the same lines, does anyboby have data on the tension required
>to break galvanised multistrand cables of various construction?  I
>want to be able to take a first guess at how I'm going to stop us
>breaking the cable with the winch.

"Cable" is more accurately referred to as aircraft cable or wire rope.
With a little help from the McMaster-Carr Supply Co. catalog, I can provide
you with a some information.  I'd also suggest getting ahold of
Land-Rover's Guide To Winching before making any decisions.  (I don't have
my copy here at the office.)  It has some suggestions about appropriate
cables for winching.  I assume no responsibility for the accuracy of this
information, or anything that goes wrong from using it, so please check
with the wire rope manufacturer or supplier about the appropriateness of
their prodcut for your use.  (Hey, I'm from America.  Someone's always
trying to sue me. ;-})

Here are the breaking strength figures for a couple of different types of
3/8 aircraft cable, which I believe is the equivalent to 8mm.  (I could
have screwed up the conversion though.)  Remember, breaking strength does
not equal working strength.  Depending on whose safety standards you use,
and what the application is, working strength is generally considered to be
between 10% and 25% of breaking strength.  I'd always err on the side of
caution on this as a snapped wire rope flying at you is not a pretty thing
to be watching and may in fact become the last thing you see.

                                                 Breaking    Abrasion    Flex-
                                                 Strength   Resistance ibility
3/8 Galv. Steel Extra Flex, 7x19 standed core:   14,400lbs     good    very good
3/8 Type 316 Stainless Steel, 7x19 stranded core: 11000lbs     good      good
3/8 Type 304 Stainless Steel, 7x19 stranded core: 12000lbs    moderate   good
3/8 Type 302 Stainless Steel, 7x19 stranded core: 12000lbs     good    excellent

There a several more types of wire rope listed, but essentially the
breaking strengths are in the same general range.  Once again, please
follow safe engineering practices when using this stuff, there's more to it
than just breaking strength.

>From my perspective doing professional theatrical rigging (lighting, sound
systems and scenery) and from working on the rigging, both wire rope and
"real" rope of sailboats, I have very little experience at "heavy" vehicle
recovery:

As I was in the process of gathering this information someone responded to
the question of using synthetic ropes for this purpose, and specifically to
check for good knots.  I would tend to avoid knots all together in this
application, as they significantly reduce the breaking strength of the
rope.  An eye splice around a metal thimble would be the only way I'd even
consider using a rope  as a recovery device.  I don't think I would
consider using it on a winch, only as a "recovery strap".  (In which case
I'd go ahead and use my nylon recovery strap anyhow.)

Regards.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life.
                      I can see it no other way.
                           --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 21:18:03 +0200
From: siccama@terena.nl (Steven Siccama)
Subject: Re: Series III and unleaded fuel?

Hi Jan,

>Could it be the guy is right? Or should I have the head rebuilt with
>hardened valve seats and other valves? Will it be save to use unleaded most
>of the time, and use leaded fuel every now and then?
>If so, how often?

No, the guy who sold you the car was not right. The 2.25 engine will not
run on unleaded fuel according to the manuals. On the other end lots of
cars, especially here in The Netherlands, run on LPG, which is, as you
know, also unleaded. Some people have run over 100,000 km on LPG without a
converted cillinder head, without having any problems. In my opinion it is
best to have the head rebuild with other valves and valve seats.

Cheers,
Steven
Amsterdam Netherlands

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Down East Rally - Owls Head
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 18:10:00 EST

New member , J Cassidy's location reminded me of the Owls Head meet in July. 
Myles Murphy says that this year is going to be organised and may even have 
some sponsorship from LRNA. Starting Saturday July 1st with Off Road day, 
various activities, then Sunday at Owls Head as usual but some actual Rover 
type activities are planned. Whether any or all of this comes to fruition 
remains to be seen, it's a great spot to visit anyway.  Mary and I intend to 
travel down in Miss Golightly this year via Lewiston, 104, Troy, and points 
east.  Anyone on route we can meet, convoy with, use as emergency back up? 
Digest subscribers at the meet should have some distinguishing feature. 
Suggestions are invited. (Khaki Camouflaged Laptop with trailing TCP/IP 
cable) Does anyone have regular contact with Myles Murphy so I can use the 
digest to communicate and keep up to date on the event?
Trevor Easton 1962 SII SWB Miss Golightly.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 15:37:55 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 14:05:14 PST
>From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>overdrive WITHOUT using the special spanner/wrench to remove the mainshaft nut
>???

My mainshaft nut was loose enough to be undone by hand(!), but I ended up
making my own wrench to tighten it. I dug a piece of pipe just the right
diameter out of the scrap pile and ground a bunch of notches in it. Then I
drilled a hole through the other end and stuck a piece of steel rod through
to turn it. It looks kind of third world, but it did the job. It took about
20 minutes, but I think it would be a lot harder to do if you didn't have
the nut off already to use as a template. If you get really desparate, I
can send you mine (assuming you're on the same continent as NY)  The punch
trick would also probably work fine, as long as you don't drop any metal
bits into the box. Good Luck.

                                                        bcw

------------------------------

From: OUDERKIR@scanva.canton.edu
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 16:02:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: carbs

   I have been contemplating whether or not to get another carberator.
I have a 2.25 liter engine bored out .020 with range rover diffs.( it
has alot of power) I have a rochester on it now. It gives me the power
on both the high end and low end, but poor gas milage. I have had a modified
holley on it that gave me 18 mpg but no power. I was looking at the weber
single barrel and double barrel. I was wondering is this the way to go?
If it is how much will I gain in mileage and performance? Also sould I 
consider putting a header on? 

My Rover
1970 sIIa 88 RR diffs 15"wheels with battleship bumpers 
Dads Rovers
1963 sIIa 88 4cyl Nissan diesel 16"wheels (Steve Denis special)
1974 sIII 88 15" orginal (future restoration project)
                      Thanks Kier

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 15:59:37 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Cables for winches

Nylon strap has been used for some tome as boat winch "cable" for boat 
trailers.  It is fine, and it doesn't kink or develop little wire 
needles to stick in your hands.  Dave VE4PN
P.S. I was in the automotive jobbers today and the electrical fellow 
showed me a wonderful one lead alternator for about $90.  That is the way 
I will go next time.  The regulator is built in and the mounting is the 
same as the Delcotron type.  Only one lead to the battery.

------------------------------

Date: 31 Mar 95 18:07:00 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc

Hank   OKX 431H is an Aug. 1969/Jul 1970 first registration ( if it is the
original vehicle)

 Charlie      Safari top, you may find it cheaper and easier to find a LWB
station Wagon top and shorten the roof to swb length, you can use the sides on a
swb if you want the windows, they are the same length. alternatively swop  the
alpine lights and vents to a swb roof. The top skin has a line of spotwelds at
the swb length, just drill them out ad you have swb skin.
 I expect in the UK to get a 109 Station wagon top for around 100 quid. ( a few
weeks ago I bought a top for 75 quid.

 Teje ... speedo problem, could be related to the slippage of the drive wheel on
the gearbox output shaft, is there any play in the bearings on the output shaft,
the drive gear relies on the parts on the output shaft being clamped up tight,
as the bearing wears it allows the gear to be loose on the shaft, if the output
shaft exhibits radial movement re shim the bearings and tighten up the shaft end
nut.
  
 Bill C ...congrats on having a driving license that is worth something, how
many beers did you buy the examiner ?.
 
 NB  I will be closed for questions from the 8th to 22nd April, my wife is
visiting from the UK for a couple of weeks, she wants to go shopping !!!!, so if
you need anything from me get it in early.

  Regards  Bill Leacock     Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: STAGGSB@TEN-NASH.TEN.K12.TN.US
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 19:15:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: D 90 for sale.

This is the first time for me on the digest.  I have enjoyed it for weeks.
I found a yellow 94 defender 90 for sale here in Nashville.  It is at the 
Middle Tennessee Motor Cars lot. It has 16000 miles on it and doesnot have 
air conditioning. Looks brand new with very little wear on it.  It doesn't 
look like it has ever been off the road.  The Sales man Eddie Hill said 
that they are asking $26,000 but would come down 1000 or 1500 on it. If 
interested call 615-742-8000  I do
not want it because I want an older 4 door RR because of where I have to 
park it during the day and the size of my family.  I used to have a series 
II and loved ever minute of it.  Just happend to live in South Dakota at 
the time and we were out in the badlands and Black hills 4x4ing all the 
time.  Cheers  Tom Staggs

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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