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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 11:11:01 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Geir Harris Hedemark <geirhe@ifi.uio.no>
Subject: Progress report on my transfer box.

I have fiddled a little more with my transfer box now, and I think I have 
found some of the problems it has.

It has a lot of black sticky stuff on top of it. I'll bet the selector 
shafts/4wd locking pin are stuck in some way. The U-joints on the front 
propshaft needs replacing, and the bearings on the transfer box 
output shaft needs tightening up. The gear lever moves in 3. when I put 
load on the gearbox. I haven't really gotten around to taking the top 
cover off the transfer box yet. They are cleaning the streets around here 
now, and will tow away any cars that are immobile. I would like to see 
them try to remove the LR in 4wd low, in gear and with the parking brake 
on, but I can't afford it if they really manage to do it. (There are some 
trees in the way, so they can't just drive up to it and tow it away...)

My bet is that it is the 4wd locking pin that won't disengage fully or 
that the u-joint has decided it was too old and wants retirement. The 
noise isn't there all the time anymore, by the way.

I hope to get a better look at it next week.

Geir

------------------------------

From: mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 10:27:40 GMT
Subject: IIa starting & wheels. I hope it gets through this time!

>Re IIa engine stalling   
   
I've tried the rubber glove/duck oil treatment for some time 
now on my SIII lightweight and it really does work - I can go 
through water well over the wing tops and pressure wash 
under the bonnet (hood) - makes engine maintenance much  
more pleasant. However, I was at a fun day recently and a guy 
was taking a  petrol Landy through some serious water at 
speed without any problems (he did have a snorkel). I asked 
him about his waterproofing. He smears high melting point  
grease over the coil and plug leads and also the holes in the 
block where the plugs screw in - these collect water and kill 
your HT. You do have to be careful when you pull the plugs 
not to shove dirty grease into the bores when you replace 
them. I'm dying for a good opportunity to try this out. I'll keep 
you posted.   
   
>Re Wheels   
   
John Hess asks about wheel colours. I think I'm right in saying 
that from the factory they were all white except for limestone 
LRs which have matching limestone wheels, bronze green 
Station Wagons which have bronze green wheels and fire  
engines, which (surprise, surprise) have red wheels. Military 
models may be an  exception, but since my ex-military LR 
seems to have changed colours about five times in service, I 
doubt whether that really matters.   
   
Hope this is of some use.   
   
Oh, BTW I'm new to all this E-mail/internet malarky, my 
name's Phil Taylor, I'm an anaesthetist in Nottingham, England 
and I run a '73 Lightweight trialler and an '89 carb-fed V8 
disco. I Had a bit of trouble sending this message yesterday. I 
think the mail server probably glitched because the text file 
wasn't pure enough.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 03:53:42 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: radiators&c

1. Discussion of radiator leaks and repairs is coincident with my just
having had my 66 IIA's rad repaired. (BTW, though this rad has the <early>
metal shroud and cowling, it has the <late> overflow spigot: a hybrid,
perhaps, possibly not the original unit? Mfr. date tag not clear) It had
been steaming and leaking most of the winter. The rad shop man tells me
the problem was that the upper mounting brackets had from vibration and
fatigue, cracked, allowing the header tank to expand, and start to
separate from the core at the tank base. I had thought perhaps using the
LR spec rad cap at 10# had caused the overpressure, and *then* cracking of
brackets, or that my coolant-circulating block heater was the culprit. 
Rad man thinks not, but suggests staying with 6-8# generic aftermarket rad
cap. Also replaced water pump and hoses, and rad shop guys were much
impressed I was able to produce brand new Genuine Parts in a couple of
days. 
 2. Winch and bush winch discussion also enlightening, but what
about <manual winches>? Hereabouts one can buy <come-alongs>, or <ratchet
hoists> rated for horizontal pull of 15 feet @ 8000# for about CDN$70-80.
No need for engine or electrical power if worst comes to worst, slow
sure,elbow grease required, but what's the field experience with these? 
3. With an audience of a billion or so I guess more than a few lros saw
the 109SW in the Oscar show clip. Evening's highlight for me. BTW, my
guess is the LR that is blown up in Outbreak is a model or digital
computer image, so fear not. 

Cheers,
Mark Perry
Wpg MB CDA
'66 IIA 88" If it isn't leaking, it's probably 
out of something.

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Bush winching
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 11:18:24 +0100 (BST)

I had a look at some SIII SWB brake drums while I was visiting my
brother at the weekend. The studs on my 90 hardly poked through the
holes in the drum. Presumably some special nuts; ie a tapped sleeve 
to replace the original wheelnut with an extended threaded shaft to fix
 the drum onto would be required. It all sounds like more trouble
than it's worth!
Cheers!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: 30 Mar 95 06:08:00 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: new to the list

> My name is Franz Parzefall and I live in Rosenheim (southern Germany).

... Out of Rosenheim, eh?   Hi!

> cars and what I like most is that alu wont rust ...(snip)...

oops, first misconception. Aluminum won't rust, but in the presence of
salt and when in contact with steel/iron it can (and will) oxydise and
decay at certain areas.

> I hacked around in those two www-sites about LRs, but it would be nice

You didn't *really* _hack_ them did you... I shouldn't hope so.

> -resonable prices for used LRs

I'll send you a private mail on this. There's no point to solicite price
quotes from the US, Australia or New Zealand if you're going to buy the
car in Germany. There's no such thing as a 'global' LR market, prices vary
considerably from continent to continent, and even within a continent, it's
all a supply/demand/fashion/fad thing (as with most other things).

> -and all you think I should know

'all' is a lot... ok, it's not your fault, but the patience of other list
members has lately been wearing a bit thin due to some very pernicious
quizzing of another (aborted) LR wannabe. Again, I'll be sending you some
info via private mail that will hopefully keep you busy and reading until
Easter...

Cheers,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 09:00:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: radiators&c

On Thu, 30 Mar 1995, Mark Perry wrote:

>  2. Winch and bush winch discussion also enlightening, but what
> about <manual winches>? Hereabouts one can buy <come-alongs>, or <ratchet
> hoists> rated for horizontal pull of 15 feet @ 8000# for about CDN$70-80.
> No need for engine or electrical power if worst comes to worst, slow
> sure,elbow grease required, but what's the field experience with these? 

	The come-alongs I have seen are not really the sturdy devices that
	would be of any use off-road.  However, the Jack-All <tm> or
	rachet hoist is something that is very useful, not for just pulling
	yourself out, but for lifting yourself up and over...  A very
	worthwhile investment.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 09:03:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: IIa starting & wheels. I hope it gets through this time!

On Thu, 30 Mar 1995 mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk wrote:

> that from the factory they were all white except for limestone 
> LRs which have matching limestone wheels, bronze green 
> Station Wagons which have bronze green wheels...

	Maybe in the UK.  My '64 109 Station Wagon, originally and still
	bronze green in colour, has the white/limestone wheels... :-)
	It was my belief that the Series Ones had body coloured wheels
	and this changes to the limestone/white wheels with the Series
	II vehicles.  Besides basic rust coloured, 90wt stained, or
	very dirty, every II/IIA/III rim I have ever seen here in Canada
	is white/limestone coloured.  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 10:57:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Diesel engine wanted

Why, pray tell would you want a cracked block?
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 18:03:24 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Speedo problem

The speedo on my 1972 SIII 88" has an interesting problem. When I start
the car in the morning, the speedo shows the right speed, but as the
car warms up, the speed reading drops (the RPM is stable).

The speedo cable is new, and fits tightly in the gearbox & speedo ends.
Does anyone have a clue to what the proble could be?

terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html

------------------------------

From: MANZEM@PLU.edu
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 09:33:39 -0800 (PST)

index lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 09:37:17 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  West Coast British?

WCB is in Livermore, Ca, (510) 606-8301. The owner, Mike Greene, worked for
LRNA for a while and has a lot of Rover experience. They also run an off-road school now.
school now.

ZHope the above phone no. is current; if not let me know & I'll find and post
the new one.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 21:55:46 +0200
From: siccama@terena.nl (Steven Siccama)
Subject: Landrover owners in Europe?

Hello,

I just subscribed to the lro-mailing list and couldn't find anything about
Landrovers on the continent of Europe. I own a 109-stage-1 V8 and am a
member of the Landrover club Holland. Our club counts some 600 members from
which about 30 will attend the forthcomming Landrover event in Norway next
august. This event is for their 20st aniversary and will be attended by
many Landrovers from Europe. I couldn't find any information about this on
the Rover Web, is there anybody who could provide me with some more details
and/or is planning to attend this event.

Looking forward to your reply,

Best regards,

Steven

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: RCA trashes an 88
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 15:04:21 EST

Anyone else catch the new RCA add in which an 88 softop goes
flying off a cliff??

another one bites the dust....

rd/nigel

------------------------------

From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 14:56:00 -0500
Subject: D90 and RR on CNN

Sightings!

I happened on a CNN story on the growing popularity of SUV's this
morning.  The meat of the footage was on the new RR and the D-90.
In fact, the only SUV's that were shown "off road", were the Land
Rovers.

Jim Cirbus

Columbus, OH

D-90

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Cool Land Rover Billboard 
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 12:24:16 -0800
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

--------
	I was down in the Phoenix, Az area this past weekend,
and happened across a really neat billboard in Scottsdale. 
Billboard divided in half, one side featuring a TOTALLY kitted
out 110, covered with dust, caption above it reading "Australian
for limousine". Other half with a picture of a huge Foster's Lager
can, caption here reads "Australian for beer". Kinda fun.

rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 15:24:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Landrover owners in Europe?

On Thu, 30 Mar 1995, Steven Siccama wrote:

> I just subscribed to the lro-mailing list and couldn't find anything about
> Landrovers on the continent of Europe. I own a 109-stage-1 V8 and am a
> member of the Landrover club Holland. 

	A chunk of the info on the Web site is from the FAQ.  No one has ever
	given me any information on non-North American or U.K. based LR
	clubs.  If they exist, drop a note, I'll add them to the FAQ

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 15:37:04 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Clark Gable Sighting

     The local PBS station ran "Mogambo" a couple times in the last week or 
     so.  I was surprised to see Ol' Clark at the wheel of what must've 
     been a fairly new Series I, all the while stealing the wife of the 
     hapless Brit he was escorting into deepest darkest Africa.  Must be 
     the "overpaid, oversexed..." tradition at work.
     
     Could this have been the earliest L-R appearance in a major picture?
     
     Hank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 22:43:04 +0200
From: siccama@terena.nl (Steven Siccama)
Subject: Re: Landrover owners in Europe?

>        A chunk of the info on the Web site is from the FAQ.  No one has ever
>        given me any information on non-North American or U.K. based LR
>        clubs.  If they exist, drop a note, I'll add them to the FAQ
>        Rgds,
none

Hello Dixon,

Thanks for your quick reply.
There are Landrover clubs in almost every country in Europe. I don't have
the information about them here at the moment but I will email a list of
clubs asap. The address of the Dutch Landrover Club is:

Land Rover Club Holland
P.O. Box 1161
1440 BD Purmerend
The Netherlands

phone# : +31-10-423318
fax#   : +31-1883-11482

Best regards,
Steven

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Re: Axle/transmission vents
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 13:38:00 EST

Thanks for the thoughts. Personally I've never had the problem with axles 
but have suffered water contamination in the swivel housings. The same can't 
be said for the more extrovert element of the Toronto Club, as featured in 
LRO, they get water in everything. Even roof lights!  The seals are designed 
to keep oil in rather than water out and the idea was to provide a source of 
pressure to the components that would balance the pressure of the water 
outside. When wading in three feet of water axles/swivels are subject to 
about 20 inches of water pressure. Header pressure from the cross member 
would be 20 inches too . When the end of the tube, at the cross member, 
wasn't submerged the pressure would be only that due to the flow of gases 
from the crankcase via the tube. Mine measures at 2 inches of water at 3000 
rpm.  When the breathers  are connected to the air cleaner then the axles 
are under a very slight vacuum due to the resistance of the filter which may 
agravate water ingestion.
 ----------
|From: Russell G. Dushin
|To: TEASTON
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
|> Had an idea today. Has anyone tried this?
|> Mercedes Unimogs use  pressurised axles etc. to keep water out when 
wading.
|> I thought, if all the breathers were routed to a single header and then
|this
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
|prop shaft) seal or through the breathers??  How's about just sticking
|to breathers routed in through the air cleaner?
|rd/nigel

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 13:45:56 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  D90 and RR on CNN

Yes, it's interesting that most of the recent magazine articles I have read 
on SUVs admit that most makes are really "all weather" rather than
"all terrain" vehicles. Land Rover models are the only real exception
with Jeep and Toyota being the only others that even try. Ford and GM
sem to have almost given up the pretense of off-road capability.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 14:05:14 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Fitting an overdrive

All, 

I'm trying to fit my overdrive unit to my SIII. Has anyone managed to fit an 
overdrive WITHOUT using the special spanner/wrench to remove the mainshaft nut 
??? Rovers North has one for hire, however, someone in CA has it and I would 
like to try without to get it fitted. I understand that this special tool 
makes life much easier, because the nut tighten down to 100 LBS/SQ FT ! 

And if you are the person with said wrench, Rovers North want it back !!! 
because besides me, there are 3 others waiting to use it ! 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 16:03:11 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Fitting an overdrive

>Has anyone managed to fit an overdrive WITHOUT using the special
> spanner/wrench to remove the mainshaft nut ???
> Mark 
none

  Yes. I used a brass drift to remove and replace said nut. No sweat.

R, bg

PS; It hasn't come off yet and it's had lottsa' miles on it. And... I use the
OD in ALL gears.

  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 16:17:08 -0800
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Rover Deal was good one!

>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 14:47:31 -0800
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Hodge Interactive Productions 801 Minnesota Ave. St. 9 San Francisco CA
>94111

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 19:02:20 -0600
From: tcrowe@students.wisc.edu (Tom Rowe)

subscribe land-rover-owner

Tom Rowe
wk:608-265-6194  hm:243-8660
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu

------------------------------

Date: 30 Mar 95 21:16:05 EST
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Subject: Ser IIa stalling

    I have a '72 III 88" Which had the same problem when I was 'rinsing the
frame'.  It happened also when I went through a deep puddle faster than I should
have - first it's running - then it's not.  One morning, after a heavy rain it
wouldn't start so I did what any sane and normal person would do - I tried
drying things with a blowtorch (it was a cold and windy morning).  After working
for about a half hour it finally started to run -- poorly.  There was a spark
coming from out of the coil wire boot on the coil to the metal heater tubes.
The coil was mounted so close to the tubes that the wire could not make it into
it's socket without angling in and pulling the boot out a bit.  The quick fix
was to wrap duct tape on the metal tubes but when the warmer weather came I
moved the coil from it's vertical position to a higher horizontal position.
This not only removed the coil wire from a point to arc to but also gave the
wire an easier route into the coil.  I also rtv'd all the wires in.  No problems
since.

Good luck and let us know what happened.

Steve Rochna

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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