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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 04:24:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: Split list

 As a newcomer to the list, I have found it most useful, informative and
entertaining, but an awful slog to get through some days (nights,
actually; I'm typically on-line at 2-3 a.m.) What's worse, I subscribe to
another digest, on trumpets and trumpet playing, and it is an even bigger
slog. Nonetheless,it's great to hear from other lros, and have questions
answered, knowing there's a wealth of wisdom on our 'cult vehicle' out
there from people who are as special as the L-Rs they cherish. (I'm still
waiting to find out if there ever was a C. Taylor Sutherland IIA, though).
I'm a 'Series' partisan, but I do find the stuff on D90/110, RR and Discos
interesting. To me, it's 'all in the family,' so keep it as one, BUT: I
don't think there's a 'taste' filter available, so we'll have to grin and
bear it sometimes, I fear. As a newspaper copy-editor, though, I cringe at
the amount of 'spam' (not just on the lro-digest). There are surely plenty
of primers and faqs on effective e-mail style and etiquette. This is no
flame, just my $.02. Enough spam from me; now, back to Roverdom. 

Cheers,
Mark Perry
Winnipeg Manitoba Canada

'66 IIA 88"
If it isn't leaking,
it's probably out of something.

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Just a thought...
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 95 14:40:14 GMT

If you dismantle and repair the gearbox yourself then when it goes in the middle
of nowhere (Murphy's Law) next time, you'll at least have an idea how to get it
out, if not fix it.  If you get the box out and it is unfixable by you or your
mates then the worst case is that you take it to be rebuilt and save the labour
charges for removal/refitting (assuming you put it back yourselves).

Last time I removed one it took about 2 hours, but that was in pretty well ideal
conditions.

ANdy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 16:25:14 +0100
From: janjan@xs4all.nl (Jan Schokker)
Subject: Intro, and question about painting

Hello,

After half a year of reading, asking questions on the NewsNet, and following 
this mailing list for a month or so (I knew Taylor wouldn't buy one) we 
finally bought a Landrover.
My girlfriend and I are now the proud owners of a 1983 ex-british-army LHD 
109 series III, imported from Germany. All nuts and bolts are metric! No 
second toolbox needed.
Currently it has a soft top, but it will get side windows, and a tropical roof.

Being the owner doesn't mean I can drive it yet. We will have to wait five 
or six weeks for a civilian registration, a general check-up, and an 
overdrive and the roof to be fitted.
I am counting the days.

This introduction is also the start of the inevitable asking of questions.
I hope to be able to give some answers too, in the future.

The question is this:
When the hard top is on, the Landrover will look awfull with army-green and 
black camouflage body, grass-green side panels, and dirty-white roof. So we 
have to paint it. We are planning on doing it by hand, with a small foam 
roller. We think it is a lot easier than spraying. Any comments on this? 
What kind of paint should we use?

A couple of weeks ago someone posted a list of Landrover colourcodes. I 
didn't need it then, so I don't have it anymore. Could you please repost it, 
Email directly to me, or tell me where to find it?

Thanks for any help, Jan (male, not short for Janet).
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 09:40:03 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Steel Wheels for Disco

Walt (& Mark),

Awwww, Jeez, I did it again.  Sorry!!! for being so scatter-brained.  It was 
not Walt's message but my careless reading of Mark's message that was amiss. 
 I read these LRO digests in a hurry because they have gotten so large and 
full of noise.  I know, I know, that's no excuse and, again, I'm sorry for 
going off half-cocked.  

>Now Granville, didn't Mark say that he had tried to put 109 16 inch wheels
>on his Discovery, and found that they did fit?  I though his question was
>on the availability of such wheels, not about fitting or not.  I agree
>that he ought to look into getting good used wheels that were designed for
>the Discovery, but he had already made up his mind about what he wanted. 

And of course, on second reading, I see he said they did fit; I read it as 
"didn't fit" which would change things.  Your message should have given me a 
clue.  Duhhhh... Guess I was too thrashed from torquing head bolts to think 
straight.

But, still, there's the issue of rim width.  Mark needs to realize that the 
109 rims are only 5.5" wide (except for the one-ton style which are 
available from Rovers North) and that his alloy disco wheels are 7" wide.  
I'm not  sure of the exact width of the steel disco wheels but sure it's 
more than 5.5".

Duh, like, uh, bye...

Granny Dimwit

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 11:14:36 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess)
Subject: rover??? sighting

I braved the traffic and crowds yesterday in a suburban adventure:
exploring the huge, not-so local shopping mall.  Practically the first
thing I saw was a new booth opened by Disney as travel agent/vacation
planning station in the mall.  I have to confess that mt wife noticed
first--the wheels on the indiana jones photo mock up front of a jeep-like
thing were 5 lug rover style!  The tires mounted on the wheels were
7.00x16.  The steel wheels didn't look like any rover wheels I'd
seen---oops-- they look like wheels advertised in LRO.  Steel with round
holes arranged in a circle around the hub.  The rest of the vehicle thing
didn't appear to look at all like a rover or jeep or TLC.  In fact, the top
of the grill had a top that reminded me of a model t type radiator cap.

On a second note, my wife drove the rover last week to go to a night
meeting.  I guess this is complete acceptence!!  Of course, I've never
doubted that, she's said she wants to drive cross country again, but spend
more time.   It's been a long time sense she'e driven the tiger, something
inhibitory about opening the garage door, moving three bikes to the back
yard, uncovering the car, pulling out of the garage and then shutting the
garage door.

The rain has stopped and spring is doing it's best.  Today, a high in the
70's blue skies, white clouds and I think a convertible day, not a rover
day!  I will however, attempt to make the rover feel wanted by opening all
the windows for fresh air and doing another door's weather stripping.

Cheers to all,

john f hess phd (wow, really?)
jfhess@ucdavis.edu
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 20:54:28 +0100 (MET)
From: Geir Harris Hedemark <geirhe@ifi.uio.no>
Subject: SIII transfer case noises.

Yesterday my transfer case just started going "brrr". It still works 
normally - it has just started doing this awful noise, just as if one of 
the gears is slipping.

It has "always" (I got the car last june, and haven't driven it more than 
1500 km or so. Everything that has had the opportunity to break has 
broken. The timing chain has even slipped on the gears.) been difficult 
engaging the high series (Red knob forward). The gear won't engage first 
time around, and the car doesn't move. If I give the red lever a good 
push, it will engage, and then it stays engaged. It has jumped out of the 
low series on overrun on me once - it was a *very* steep hill, and I 
didn't think much about it.

The noise from the transfer box stops if I move the red lever to neutral.

The low series engages just fine. So now I am wondering - has this got 
something to do with an adjustment of some kind? I would like the high 
series to engage before I ram the lever into the firewall. It engages on 
the last centimeter or so now.

I need the car the week after easter (A 400 km trip). If I need to remove 
the transfer gearbox and overhaul it - is there some *simple* way to do 
that, perhaps leaving the main box in the car? Am I looking at (yet 
another) very expensive task?

The main gearbox works just fine. It whines a little in 4., and 2. is 
difficult to engage, but it has never given me a hint of something really 
wrong other than a little general wear.

Geir

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 19:57:36 +0100
From: caloccia@team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: the digesterfiers...

>Anyone else getting fed up with this digester absorbing most
>wisdom itself instead of passing it on to us, just in order to occasionally
>save a couple of bytes of bandwidth?

Unfortunately, the original posted message  was as content free as the
digested version, so you needn't loose any sleep over it.

And if everyone had the common courtesey to not include long pieces of
text before their witty two or n line response, there would be no need
for the digestifier.

In part, by adding the same process to the real-time, it now makes that
users (20% of the list) aware as to what happens to their messages when
forwarded.

You don't need to forward the whole message to respond to it, ususally
a single line cut or constructed will do as well.

-B

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net       caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 12:19:37 +0800
From: amahajan@Baynetworks.COM (Arun Mahajan)
Subject: Re : US Metal Hardtop D90s?

>Date: Sat, 18 Mar 1995 12:14:32 -0800
>From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>made and not all have sold.
>Thanks,

Hi,

A couple of weeks ago, i saw a hard-top Defender-90 at the dealership in
San Jose. If you are in the Bay Area (Silicon Valley), then the directions are:
San Jose British Motors, they are on Stevens Creek, close to the junction of
Lawrence and Stevens Creek, on the right side on Stevens Creek in the San Jose
direction. Dunno if it is still around though.

Meanwhile, i am a newbie on this list. Hello world.

I am in the market for a LR. So if anybody has one for sale in the Bay Area...
please let me know.

Thanks,

        .arun (amahajan@baynetworks.com)

p.s. : isnt that a D90 in the Jolly-Rancher candy commercial? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 95 12:28:25 PST
From: grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.))
Subject: Steel Wheels

>From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA
>Subject: Re: Steel Wheels for Disco
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>if you call information area code 604 I am sure you will get what you 
>want. Dave VE4PN

Well I just happen to have Octupus' phone # writen on my computer screen:
(604) 925-1514. Last time I talked to the guy he had a special on 
D90 wheels. ( 3 months ago)
I forget the price. I figure new D90 wheels would look out of place on my 88.
I have to call him next week so I'll check if he still has some in stock.
As David says, they have quite reasonable prices usually.
 
Gordon 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 15:32:14 -0600 (CST)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: RE: Steel Wheels for Disco

>John and I are thinking about putting together a bulk order for 16 inch 
>wheels for our 109's.  anybody else interested?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>wheels for our 109's.  anybody else interested?
>Walt Swain
What do the 16" 109 wheels look like?  I'd like to get some of the white
painted steel wheels that look basically like a simple disk of steel.  Is
this them?  If so, I'd be interested in a set.

Henry B. Wilson, wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu or henben@aol.com
'59 Austin Healey 100-6
'94 LR Discovery 5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 15:55:43 -0600 (CST)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: Disco aftermarket parts

In addition to Rovers North, which has a decent selection but by no means all
that's out there, try Atlantic British (800-533-2210).  They offer much of
the usual RN stuff but some alternate brush bars and other things.  They
seem to have made an effort to get hold of some of the _British_ aftermarket
parts (side graphics, wheel arch protectors), so give them a try.

Henry B. Wilson, wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu or henben@aol.com
'59 Austin Healey 100-6
'94 LR Discovery 5-speed

------------------------------

From: Solihul@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 17:02:25 -0500
Subject: ujoints from local sources

part numbers- a part number for the uj s would be great. Id buy a few just to
keep under the seat justincase. BTW the NAPA part number for the drop in
canister fuel filter on the firewall of my 88 (and probably others) is 3348.
Hope this heps somebody.

------------------------------

From: Solihul@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 17:02:53 -0500
Subject: Pierre's letter, jory's response, et al ad infinitum ad nause

I haven't had time to read the letter yet, I subscribed mainly to give and
get tech tips. Now I'll have to read it just to see what the fuss is all
about. jory's response was offensive to me, but maybe he was just trying to
make a point. I have to listen to that kind of language at work all the time.
I prefer to avoid it in my avocations. OK so now its the 19th and I've had a
chance to read it. Jory's response was more offensive to *me* because of the
language used, but Pierre's piece was inappropriate for two reasons to me:
1:it was only incidentally about Rovers, could've been a Suzuki Vitara as far
as the story line went, so inaprop for LRO, and 2: It seemed JrHi boys gym
locker room type. I would not have voluntarilly paid to download this.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 18:01:34 -0500
From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner)
Subject: Lumiweld System

On Tue, Mar 14 David John Place wrote:

>Thanks for the info on the rod.  I think I will try this stuff on my
>aluminum canoe.  I also saw it advertised at a home handyman show and I
>think the only thing the fellow tod me was that it required using some
>kind of special prep brush with stainless bristles, however maybe he was
>just selling brushes!  I will try the sandpaper or wire wheel route.

Just noticed in the lastest catalog from The Eastwood Company their
Lumiweld System for Aluminum and White Metal. They have a starter kit which
includes 5 rods, stainless steel wire pick, and stainless steel brush, for
$22.95 CDN.
They now have a canadian office in Scarborough, Ontario and can be reached
at 1-800-820-9042. I am planning to try this stuff out this summer, but
would appreciate any comments from someone who has tried it or gets to try
it before I do.

I am in favour of keeping the list as one great list pertaining to all
things Land Rover, but Carl Byrne's idea of coding the list sounds like a
good one as long as it would not involve more work for the overworked host
who looks after the list!

Cheers!
 Richard

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 18:03:29 -0500
Subject: Brake lines & chains

I'm replacing lines on a 'Road' Rover, and my queries led me to a vendor in
the U.K.. He had cut to length lines, proper ends fitted, and at a reasonable
price. However, he said they were copper. (Very bendable).  But copper lines
are taboo here in the US! (Prone to rupture) So, I'll just fashion my own...
My question is this - Are the offered lines really of copper or are they
meerly copper colored, such that one would call them that? Are copper lines
acceptable in the U.K.? It just seems odd having two levels of acceptance, if
that's the case. Or maybe I was being offered bogus parts...
Re: D90 & chains. When needed, I take "Bubbles" out ('60 88" II). She wears
'Braces' (i.e. chains). They're the aggressive ones with the cross bars
welded to the chain. Very impressive in low range, but can wreck havoc to
'ole Mommy Earth! (Teara-some-more-of-that-firma) Hell, that thing will skid
a 50' maple!  And yes, damage can result to the vehicle. One inner wing is
sliced up pretty handily. I'm sure the results have been seen on older
vehicles.(It might have gotten the brake lines too. They haven't worked in
over 5 yrs!). If you have a dealer who has an approved setup, and you do plan
extreme use, that might be your cheaper route in the long run. I also think
that with your greater low end torque, you will need a less agressive chain
than a 'series' vehicle in the same application.
See ya' on the old road...
Jim   61 88" HT / weber 1 Bbl, OD & 16's   (econobox?)
LR....the absolute best vehicle in the world at 5 Hrs/mile!

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 18:03:39 -0500
Subject:  Not LR specific; Tire Beading

Seem to remember (might have been a few weeks back) reading a method of
re-setting the bead of a tire by using lighter fluid and flame. Wouldn't do
it. Explosion could result. And some of the aerosol inflators (i.e. roadside
flat repairs in a can) were/might still be flammable. Little thing called
'flash point.' (In Ludlow, Vt., is a garage that has the imprint of a
mechanic on the ceiling. He tried to 'spot' weld a rim leak). Better to mimic
the tire store method. Tie a rope around the tire and cinch it up, or put on
the spare if possible.
Call me Mr. Cautious, but....  
See ya' on the old road...
Jim   61 88" HT / weber 1 Bbl, OD & 16's
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 17:45:05 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: SIII transfer case noises.

Just an idea Geir, but a fellow brought me a Land Rover with similar 
problems and it turned out the rubber boot was between the firewall and 
the stick so that when he pushed it forward it didn't really get all the 
way into gear.  We placed a piece of pipe over the stick and bent it 
toward the seat box so that when it was pushed forward it had more 
clearance before it hit the wall.  This seemed to do the trick.  It is a 
long shot but what the heck.  If it saves taking out that box it is worth 
the try.  Be careful you don't over do it and break the stick. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: RALLY> US National cost
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 18:03:29 -0700 (MST)

The US national rally will be held aug 15-20 1995 in Breckinridge, Colorado.
See a previous message for details.

Registration fee is $30 per vehicle.  Fee includes souvenir t-shirts, 
welcome package, and admittance to banquet and prize fest on aug. 20.
Registration info (name, address, vehicle ID, # in party, and fee) should 
be sent to Marian Taylor, 890 County Line Road, Bryn Mawr, PA 19010.  
Checks should be made out to:  Solihull Society.

Event limited to first 40 registrants.

Questions?  Call Peter Taylor at 800-332-6647 or Greg Chernushin at 
800-383-5886.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills                 Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 19:25:00 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: http site

This evening I tried to bring up the pictures in the http site and they 
were gone.  Has the site changed in some way.  The Rover Web still worked 
but nothing in the missouri one for graphics.  Can someone tell me which one 
has the most graphics these days?  I will try to post a picture of my 88 in the 
largest one.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 95 16:43:29 AKS
From: abalser@salrm.alaska.edu (Andrew Balser)
Subject: frame repair

	This spring I am looking at replacing a section of rear frame on my 109 military that includes the rear member and the rails up to and just past the rearmost spring perches on both sides.  I have one of those funky frames they made by welding two halves together with a seam on top and on bottom of each rail.  I already have a replacement section that I am hoping will fit in a-o.k. and be functional and reliable.  Besides taking it to the guy who does frame stuff on cars here in Fairbanks and trusting his expertise, what should I know about this and can I expect this to be a decent long term solution? The new piece is in nice shape, very little surface rust.  Any opinions on the latest rot prevention products?  I darnsight need something to drive until things warm up a little up here, so I've got some time (to learn about the process) between now and when I will bite the bullet and have it done.  

	 Anybody rover-tripping to Alaska this summer feel free to look me up!

Andrew Balser

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: SIIA> bogus stub axle shaft?
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 18:37:30 -0700 (MST)

I've been rebuilding my 109 front hubs, and running deeper and deeper 
into trouble.  

The stub axle assembly or spindles (part # 599827) were shot.  I didn't
see any in RN catalogue, BP was out of them, so I turned to AB.  They
delivered 2 identical ones, except that one was made in England, and one
in Japan!  I got brass bushings to fit in them from RN (part # 217354). 
Problem is, they don't fit.  Brass is soft enough that you can ram them
in, but then the splines of the stub axle shaft won't fit through.  The AB
spindles are not machined to hold the bushings like my old spindles.  The
old ones have a groove into which the bushes fit snuggly; the new ones
appear to be tapered, which deforms the bushes. I have not yet been able
to get ahold of AB for an explanation. 

In the meantime, has anybody run into this problem before?  Or am I the 
first hapless recipient of a bogus shipment?  

TIA for any useful thoughts, etc.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills                 Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Subject: Re: http site 
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 21:07:26 -0500
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

i sent them a note about it, the page that points to all
of the pictures doesn't exist or is in the wrong place.
try this instead:
http://www.missouri.edu:80/roverweb/picts/
which will bring up a directory of the pictures with 
hypertext links to each.

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: SIII transfer case noises.
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 13:35:39 EST

> The low series engages just fine. So now I am wondering - has this got 
> something to do with an adjustment of some kind? I would like the high 
> series to engage before I ram the lever into the firewall. It engages on 
> the last centimeter or so now.
none

If you put some washers inbetween the bracket that hold the hi-lo lever 
and the where it is bolted to the bell housing, this will move the top of 
the lever away from the firewall.
> I need the car the week after easter (A 400 km trip). If I need to remove 
> the transfer gearbox and overhaul it - is there some *simple* way to do 
> that, perhaps leaving the main box in the car? Am I looking at (yet 
> another) very expensive task?
none

Best way to remove the transfer case, and gearbox is up through the 
floor.  Remove the floor and the seat box.  Disconnect prop shafts, 
speedo cable and the high low lever from the bell housing.  Next remove 
the hand brake, including the backing plate, remove the intermidiate 
shaft, and the intermidiate gear.  Undo all the bolts holding the 
transfer case to the gearbox, including the 3 inside the transfer case.  
Unbolt the mounts, and voila, one transfer case remove (If I haven't 
missed a couple of things??)  Then you can remove the gear box if you 
want.  I reckon it is the easiest way to remove the gear box, as I 
absolutely hate trying to put a motor in, a major pain in the butt.

> Geir
> the transfer gearbox and overhaul it - is there some *simple* way to do 
> that, perhaps leaving the main box in the car? Am I looking at (yet 

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: "geoffrey.m.halaburt"
Date: 19 Mar 95 20:30:30 
Subject: Re: US Metal Hardtop D90s?

Jeremy writes:
>Does anyone know the location of any dealers who still have the US model 
>D90s available with the metal hardtop?  I understand there were 40 or so 
>made and not all have sold.

I drove by R.A.B. today in San Rafael, CA and they sold theirs about 2 weeks 
ago.  About 1-1/2 weeks ago both dealers on Long Island, NY (Land Rover of 
Massapequa and Range Rover of Glen Cove) both had theirs on the lot.  Glen Cove 
said they had taken a very tentative deposit on theirs, so it could be gone.  I 
would suggest getting a dealer list from LRNA, and trying dealers in upscale, 
urban areas were D90's are less popular, and/or in very warm climates (FL, TX, 
AZ), where the hardtop may be less appealing than an open vehicle.

R.A.B. also had in the new "fastback" soft top.  IMO, it is less ugly in person 
than the earlier dealer pictures I had seen -- not saying much.  It's sort of a 
hybrid between the Bestop full soft top and a toneau cover.  It follows the 
contours of the standard roll bar -- without the safari cage.

BTW, Glen Cove also mentioned they were expecting a '93 D110 in used at about 
$42k US.

-Geoff

------------------------------

From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Sun, 19 Mar 1995 20:56:43 +1100
Subject:       More Movie Rovers!

Dear LRO's,

    Today I saw the new film `Breakout'.  The theme is about a 
highly contagious virus spreading from Central Africa to the US.  To 
eliminate the virus from a mercenary camp in Zaire, a 2 KT fueled air 
bomb is parachuted into this camp.  The resulting shock wave and 
explosion sends a Land Rover airborn!  So you didn't think they could 
fly, eh?

Later,

John R. Benham
1968 IIA 88 `Bwana Mobile'
 

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 01:09:28 -0500
Subject: 1962 Soft Top

If this vehicle is in a great condition, new tyres, recently resprayed, great
chassis, engine in good condition, RHD, interior great condition, 71000
"original" miles- What would be a reasonable price?? Any hints?

Also my "AntiChrist" 1966 IIA 88" Petrol, as I drive there is a sort of metal
scraping sound that comes from the driver's side front wheel area. Only hear
it after you reach speeds of more than 30mph. I am not totally sure of the
source, but is definitely the left front area. Any suggestions would be
helpful. Still waiting for my manual from Atlantic British - nearly 3 months
now!!!

Cheers 

Chris

------------------------------

From: Keerock2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 02:31:45 -0500
Subject: Re: two lists better than one?

(Someone recently suggested splitting into two lists - RR/Disco & Series)

One more question ... Do the D90 people go with the "Series" people (i.e. the
non-leather & electric button crowd) or the "RR/Disco" people (i.e. Coil
springs can go to hell")??

I like  good controversial question.

-Dean J. Silliman
-Lake Arowhead, CA, USA

------------------------------

From: chris.youngson@deepcove.com
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 00:06:40 
Subject: ECOFLOW

h@uconnvm.uconn.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 00:15:46 -0800
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Pierre's letter, jory's response, et al ad infinitum ad nause

Solihul@aol.com (?) wrote:

>I haven't had time to read the letter yet, I subscribed mainly to give and
 get tech tips. Now I'll have to read it just to see what the fuss is all
 about. jory's response was offensive to me, but maybe he was just trying to
 make a point. I have to listen to that kind of language at work all the time.
 I prefer to avoid it in my avocations. OK so now its the 19th and I've had a
 chance to read it. Jory's response was more offensive to *me* because of the
 language used, but Pierre's piece was inappropriate for two reasons to me:
 1:it was only incidentally about Rovers, could've been a Suzuki Vitara as far
 as the story line went, so inaprop for LRO, and 2: It seemed JrHi boys gym
 locker room type. I would not have voluntarilly paid to download this.

 So what!  I don't discuss politics, land rovers, or anything else for that
 matter, with anyone who doesn't have or uses a name.

 Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
  Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
  NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

  ftp://ftp.crl.com/ftp/users/cs/cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 20 Mar 1995 08:18:20 +0000
Subject:       Re: USA - out West!

> *** Is this of any interest to the Rover owners on the LRO-NET? ***
 Vote++

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
           Play -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
#======================================================================#

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  Total   786  forwarded 56 header 119 whitespace 246
 Output: Content 386  forwarded 45 (cut  11) whitespace 236


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