Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 08:27:39 -0500
Subject: 'Ye olde axe'

The talk of how long Rovers last reminds me of the story of "My
great-grandfathers axe" -- Its been a very good axe. We replaced 6 handles
and 2 heads, but it is still the  best axe!!

See ya' on the old road...
Jim  61 88" SW / 1 Bbl weber, OD & 16's  (econobox?)
LR... The absolute best vehicle in the world at 5 hrs/mile!!

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 08:28:03 -0500
Subject: weber cold(?) start

Tried to post this post this once, saw it in the directory, but didn't get it
back in the digest. If you've seen it before, sorry for wasting bandwidth.

Greg- Have the weber 1 Bbl here too. On cold mornings ( 0 F and below-like
tomorrow) it will often 'sneeze' or make a sound like 'bloompfh' and quit.
Sounds are at the carb. Symptoms are very similar to yours. My plan of attack
is to wait till warmer weather and then fix it. You might try that - it
worked quite well for me last winter! 
  Some thoughts: Is this a recent conversion? I ask this because the 'throw'
of the weber is opposite to that of the Solex (I think thats the one I want).
(I feel like the boy who cried "wolf". (RH & LH fans & cranks)). But there
are two different coil springs (fig 3.23, #47 -Torsion spring for bell crank,
pg 52, 1978 Haynes), one for each application. Clockwise and
counterclockwise. Honest. If a hybrid linkage was created by using the wrong
spring, and that wrong spring is gunked, those conditions and temperature
could be a factor. If you have problems with the return, have a knowledgeable
friend look at the linkage. I have the wrong spring on mine (and yes I did
it, bless those little brown bottles!). I was over to visit Rich Ziegler and
asked to borrow a 'grippy, bender type tool.' "Why?" was the response. I
showed him where I wanted to rebend the end of the spring because it was
about to exit its securing hole. "Well, thats the wrong spring..." Ok, forget
the tool. Educuation never ends. Bonnet closes. Now, I have to find the box
with linkage parts in it.
  Another thing you might check is the jet that is at the top on the valve
cover side. I have found this blocked. Don't loose the O-ring. It will
probably stay in, but..! The jet is in a holder (the screwhead part; secured
by very light press fit), and could come out, so work over a clean surface in
case you have to look for things later... I carefully cleaned it (jet) with a
single wire from a wire brush and by blowing through it. Weber doesn't advise
any reaming activity, but the wire was much smaller than the opening and I
was careful and it worked. No vigorous activity! And don't swallow the damn
thing!!
  You might also try closing the choke at night when you park it. Then for
your cold start, open the choke a bit. See if this helps. I have a Volvo
P1800 with a weber DGV on it and this works very well. There might be some
evaporation activity at shut down, followed by a pressure lock at start up.
Who knows? I doubt the problem is icing or improper atomisation in your
clime. By the time you get the problem solved it might be warm enough that
maybe it just went away.
  Does anyone know of a manual that covers the 1 Bbl Webers? The only book I
have covers only the 'deuces.' (I think that's a Haynes as well. Its outside
in a vehicle under snow...) 

See ya' on the old road...
Jim  61 88" HT / 1Bbl weber, OD & 16's  (econobox?)
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 95 10:13:16 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Overdrives 

All, 

Anyone recommend an overdrive unti for my SIII. I'm going back to the UK in a 
few weeks and considering buying one. Does anyone know if they are cheaper 
here or in the UK. 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 95 10:12:56 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling hubs

All, 

I read somewhere, (don't know where) that its possible to fit free wheeling 
hubs on both the front and REAR of a Land Rover. Anyone tried it or have any 
comments ? 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 95 10:13:07 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Beryl's first run..... Not this weekend

All, 

Beryl's first run did'nt happen. Last weekend I took the manifolds off becuase 
the inlet and exhaust manifold bolt would not tighten down. This time I 
spripped a stud to the down pipe and no one in Keene had any. Although its 
sounds great I really don't wont to risk it. 

So now its next weekend. 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 13:17:06 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Freewheeling hubs

Not a good idea to put them on front and back but, despite the neg. 
comments the last month, I still recommend them on the front.  You need 
good ones like the older brass Warn type.  I have used the Selectro and 
they are bad news because if the wheel isn't in just the right spot, you 
can't trip the levers over.  In the Warn and others, there is a spring 
loaded scroll that pops in once you move the vehicle forward even if they 
didn't go in when you turned the face plate to lock.  I find that 
steering is better and less noise is generated on highway driving with 
the hubs.  Yes you do have to occasionally put them on to lube the front 
end and worst of all if you run one on and one off you are just asking 
for diff failure down the line, but common sense with them makes them 
worth the price.  For the member trying to get a face plate for the old 
Warn, you can't get them anymore.  I found one in Alberta and it isn't 
difficult to replace it. You will need an allan key and you will need a 
machine tread countersunk screw to attach it.  Just any screw won't do.  
Use some Locktite or you can dimple the machine head the way the factory 
did it but don't just screw it in, it won't stay put.  Graphite seems to 
be a better lube on these units because grease only attracts dust and soon 
you have an abrasive goo in there that doesn't do anything any good.  If 
you can't get a proper plate, I used an old radio knob, a large one with 
a shaft down to the scroll till I found a proper plate and it worked not 
to badly for about a year, but it took a full year to find the right 
plate and it cost a good buck.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 14:47:20 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: lro

getfile lro-digest faq.a
getfile lro-digest faq.b
getfile lro-digest faq.c
getfile lro-digest faq.d
getfile lro-digest faq.e
getfile lro-digest aaa.readme
index lro-digest

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 17:43:33 -0500
Subject: Kelly Minnick's Ramblings

Kelly wrote in misc rambling #l:

.....I could not attach the front shocks until everything was mounted and I
jumped up and down on the frame many times.... Also, the LR axel straps will
not go on.......

Suggest that you have vehicle sitting on level with the engine etc (normal
load).  First, loosen all the shackle bolts - then jump up and down on
vehicle to settle things and re-tighten the bolts through the spring and
frame bushings.  

You don't want the rubber bushings wound up (twisted) from being tightened
while up too high (unloaded).  This will shorten bushing life and give you a
fun job replacing them!

Bob Bernard 

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 17:46:55 -0500
Subject: Hello

Sue and I just wanted to say hello.   We are new to 'the net',  but not new
to Land Rover ownership.

We currently own a '51 80 (long term rebuilding project-engine is a 4 Cyl
Chevy with a Scotty adapter, trans & axel assemblies out of late  IIA  - a
'70 we parted out), a '60 88 PU (also a rebuilding project - just purchased
it with a Volvo engine that didn't run- removed Volvo and am rebuilding Land
Rover IIA  engine fur use in its place, dash was a solid metal panel-only
gauge was 120 MPH Speedo from Volvo <g>. Currently restoring dash/wiring.
 Our daily driver is a '65 88 with late IIA fenders/grille named 'Sherman'
(as in tank).  

Sherman  has a Safari roof, full inside roll cage,  power steering, Over
drive, two gas tanks (rear tank off CJ7),  ARB rear diff, floor mounted am/fm
cassette player between middle seat & gear shift,  and 15" Norseman Radial
tires for climbing rocks & riding on top the snow - which we have a lot of in
the hills above us.  Installation of the power steering allowed me to install
a smaller steering wheel (15" diameter Mountney purchased from DAP - compared
to a 17" stock LR steering wheel) which has added to the leg room.   (Notice
there's an awful lot of conversation about leg room in 88 vs 109's these
days.)  Engine is stock except for a Weber 2BBL and headers, 80 amp Delco
Alternator to help with the 8000 LB Warn winch.  I guess you say we're not
purists.  All modifications have been done by me (Bob - Sue doesn't work on
them, just loves to drive them).

We are long time members of LROA, NA.  Member #54, and are currently the
Membership/Treasurer of same.

Cheers,

Bob & Sue Bernard
  

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 


    Back
	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.