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Subject: Zenith cam
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 1995 23:51:10 -0800 (PST)
From: "Kelly Minnick" <kminnick@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>

RE: Zenith cam
In an earlier submission, I asked if anyone knew where I could find the cam
off of a Zenith 36IVE (USA?) carb.  Most people thought I meant the throttle
switch.  I have the silly switch (and it works!).  Since I never had the stock
Zenith carb, I don't have the cam that was attached to the throttle shaft!
If I had a drawing, I would make one!  Maybe I'll have to fake one without
dimensions.  Surely someone out there still has a 36IVE!??  By the way Ben, 
even if they give you an exemption for this 2 year period, you'll have to
go through the same process in another 2 years.  The exemption is not for the
life of the vehicle if you do not have all the original equipment. (been there,
done that!).  i.e. don't give away any of your original equipment! I have a
36IV that I plan on putting this cam-thing and seeing it that flies...  Wish
me luck.  I'll swap carbs every 2 years if necessary!  Later.  Oh, thanks again
for all the tank/vacuum boost info.
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Jan 1995 20:14:16 +0000
From: Steve Firth <steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: How good really?

Granville Pool writes:-

>I hope you realize, as you are in U.K., where petrol prices are so high,
>that a V-8 lwb will be very thirsty.  Many in your country favor a diesel
>for economy and good off-road performance.

Though consider before looking at a diesel what sort of use you want from
your Landie. The older diesels are rough and none too economical and they
like to be used every day.

If you intend only occasional use, a petrol engine is a beTter bet than a
diesel as they can be left standing for weeks and start first time. Be
cautious with V8 conversions on older models, they can have drive shaft
problems because the torque of the V8 is more than the drivetrain likes.
THe 90/110 onwards have much tougher components in the drivetrain.

Lastly, think about insurance. The 109 Safari/County 12 seater is seen as
an insurance risk because of the seating capacity. If you only make
occasional use of the Landie, you can get big discounts by insuring on a
restricted mileage basis. I restrict mine to less than 7k/year and pay half
the premium quoted for unlimited mileage.

-Steve Firth, '81 108" Safari.

------------------------------

From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 95 09:51 NZT
Subject: RE: New Zealand Land Rovers -- Advice please!

>Very average prices for a "good condition" LWB Safari Series 2 or 3.

Seems to range from NZ$3k for one that goes, to $10k for very tidy
late models.  Around 5-6k should net you a good one.

>The best area to go shopping. Auckland? South Island?  No real 
>difference?

There are 17 of various models (from S1 to 110) listed in this week's
'Trade&Exchange' in Auckland.  That's pretty typical.  I don't know
about Christchurch.

>Any particular "gotchas" related to buying a Landie in NZ (e.g. most 
>having been used to dump boats in salt water)?

Many ex Army vehicles, which I would guess have been maintained
pretty well during their military life.  Many farm vehicle, which
possibily haven't (but most of these have flat-deck rear trays
which you're probably not so interested in).  Many Holden repowers.
Original landy motors actually seem to be quite rare.

Hugh

------------------------------

Date:     Sun, 15 Jan 95 14:33:40 PST
From: "Neil E. Villacorta" <FM00VILL@UCSBVM.UCSB.EDU>
Subject:  ENGINE NEEDED

*** Resending note of 01/15/95 14:31

My friend is rebuilding a Rover 3500 Vitesse saloon, and would like to
update his engine to either 3.5 or 3.9-liter V8, preferably an '86 or later
model.

Would need a complete engine including fuel-injection parts; and engine
mounts.

Please send any info, including price, mileage, etc.

Thanks in advance,

:-) neil

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Jan 1995 18:20:53 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman C. Wing)
Subject: On the road!

Well, after 2 weeks of intensive work(10-14 hours daily), the 88 is ready
to go. I've just got to throw the fenders back on and put the floors in,
and it should be ready for inspection. the door posts actually went in
fairly easily. At least, it was easier than welding spring boxes on a MkII
Jaguar. I only set the Rover on fire once(oily rag stupidly sitting near
the welder), and I got it out pretty quickly.  I've tested it out a bit in
the yard, and it runs great. I couldn't find any real mud, which was
probably just as well, since I got quite wet enough without floors or
fenders.  It runs a bit rich, though, and I can't find any info on tuning
the 2 bbl weber. Does anyone know anything about these? Also, does anyone
have a spare overdrive kicking around? Probably a stupid question, they
seem to be rather scarce.

------------------------------

From: root@ocs.cpsg.com.au
Subject: Slack in the stearing
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 95 12:48:53 EDT

Most of the time, the slack is in the tie rod ends, or thats my 
experience, so just look for the ones that are on there way to the great 
big steering arm in the sky, and replace them. If all the tie rod ends 
are in good nick, check the steering box and the king pins.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       I slow for hills!
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |     but not of my own will

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jan 95 21:28:20 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: I'm mad as hell ...

Jim is cross...   how about "thoroughlus pissedoffus anaskatomenus"

"Oh, but I *do* insist to have a car where I'll survive a 60 ft. drop from
a cliff unhurt... maybe I'll have to revert to the old VW Beetle after all" <g>

More on the serious side: Obviously every construction has its limits, and
a free fall in whatever is of course the worst accident imaginable. I recall
a report some time last year about some unfortunate egyptian UN-soldiers in
Bosnia who slipped off a bridge and fell a mere 18 feet deep into a dry rocky
river bed ... in a Scorpio tank! One soldier killed, the other two badly
injured (skull fracture, broken back, broken legs). IOW I'm surely not
surprised that the Rottman family didn't survive that crash with their
Range Rover ... not a chance.

I do find however that the risk of accidental or foolish use of the Range
Rovers diff lock is widely unknown or underestimated. First, the actuating
lever has no kind of safety latch or inhibitor. Just a mere flick with the
hand, or even just accidentally knocking it, and... zap! And I also must
agree with that reporter that the customer is not warned sufficiently about
the potential risks. Bill, I have here lying before me the original 1987 
Range Rover Owners Manual (# SRR600ENHB), and all it says is, and I quote:
"In conditions requiring maximum traction to both axles, i.e. .... on any
surface where the vehicle is likely to lose adhesion, the gearbox differential
unit can be locked so that both output shafts rotate at same speed."
Yeah, great.
And the manual even encourages applying diff lock on high-traction surface,
because further down they suggest: 
"The differential should (!) be locked before (!) driving in slippery or 
doubtful surface conditions."
Considering furthermore the fact that very few first owners of Range Rovers
have any notion about off-road driving and techniques whatsoever, this is
obviously inviting trouble. The only 'warning', if you want to call it that,
is - "The control can be operated while the vehicle is travelling without
wheel slip and in a straight line, or while it is stationary."
Instead, they really should print framed and in big red caps 
' WARNING - ENGAGING THE DIFFERENTIAL LOCK ON DRY SURFACE AND/OR
AT HIGH SPEEDS OR WHILE NOT DRIVING STRAIGHT CAN KILL YOU! '
When going into or out of diff lock while making a turn with the steering 
fully locked, the vehicle is obviously going to skid or jump out of control
or knock the steering wheel out of the drivers hands. But how would the 
average yuppie Range Rover owner know? (all list members excepted, of course).
Sure, he'll find out first time he does it, but he just might not live to
tell the story. And I strongly suspect that that is what happened to poor
Mr. Rottman.

Still, keep on fuming, Jim, it makes great reading!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
'87 RR | '73 S.III 109 Station

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jan 95 22:22:47 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Differential failures

Diffs fail for many reasons, the major cause in my experience is simply fatigue,
the std dif is undersized for the weight and power of the later Rovers, hence
salisbury on ser 3 109's. Part of the reason for full time f.w.d is to be easier
on the transmission.

 In 20 plus years of competition with landies I have bust, scrapped and repaired
a lot of diffs.
 if the crown wheel or pinion teeth go the unit is scrap, however there are
still a lot of useful spares left in the assembly for the impecunious owner, the
planet gears and the planet carrier are very useful in repairing units with the
next major problem , sheared teeth os shaft in the planet gear assembly.
 The later models have the planet gear shaft secured ( ha ha !) with a pair of
circlips, this allows the shaft to rotate in the cast iron housing and
subsequently enlarge the hole, creating more clearance and backlash, thus
increasing the shock loads, thus increasing the wear and so on until failure
occurs.  I have seen a Rangie diff with almost an 1"  long slot worn in the
planet carrier.
 Occasionaly the bolts securing the crown wheel to the carrier fail, early
vehicles are fitted with B.S.F. bolts, difficult these days to obtain in High
Tensile material these days. Later ones with UNF  and new onesd with Metric
fasteners.

 Marcus where did you get your torque tightening data from?  55 ft lb  is far
too high a torque for  a dia 3/8" bolt. 

The "Rover" manual lists 35 ft lb for standard bolts and 45 ft.lb. for special
bolts.
 Since yours is BSF thread it should be fitted with  locking tabs which will
prevent the bolts from coming loose by turning, torque is therefore less
critical in this application.  On the UNF bolts without tabs it is more
important to have the correct torque figure. The use of anearobic polymers  (
Loctite ) is recomended in this situation.

 You are now driving around in a vehicle in which the crown heel retaining
screws are overstressed
( readily indicated by the fact that you sheared one at assembly ). I suggest
that at sometime of your own choosing you replace the bolts with new ones
tightened to 35 ft lb, or somedy you will have to do it at a time of the diffs
choosing, perhaps when you are miles from civilization.
  Whilst on my soapbox I should also mention  that the diff requires
lubrication, it is easy to overlook the need to check the level of the oil and
to change it occasionaly.  it is often overlooked that the oil that is leaking
from the half shaft end or loose drive flange is coming from the diff casing.
Examination of the old oil can often give indication of potential failures, i.e
bolt heads, bits of gear teeth etc.
  Regards   Bill Leacock       Limey in exile. ( it is now 'two whole weeks'
since I last saw a Land Rover when I was in the UK for Christmas, I need a fix.
( readily indicated by the fact that you sheared one at assembly ). I suggest

------------------------------

From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 1995 01:32:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Shameless

I check in every now & then to see what the hot topics are and when I saw the
blurb about shameless newsletter editors, I figures that I had better jump
in.

Actually, the blurb had more to do with clubs and whether their dues would be
going up. A few figures were given but not for the Land Rover Owners'
Association of North America.

Being the editor of that club's newsletter, It falls to me to provide the
information...

- Membership is still $20 per year.
- The quarterly "newsletter" is really a magazine (32pages for the winter
issue). It has an events calendar with most North American events, a News
section, a Club Report section telling you about recent club activities in N.
America,  a Tech Tips section which gives good information about how other
members maintain their Rovers, an articles section where you can read about
members' Rover adventures, a parts & service page which lists as many shops
as we know of who have worked on Rovers, a club listing which has all the
North American Rover clubs' addresses so that you can plug into a local group
of fanatics, a Military section where facts & figures about Rovers in the
military can be found, and a Marketplace section with 1-2 pages of Rovers and
Rover parts for sale. Besides that, it has lots & lots of photos.

The address is: 
LROA,NA
P.O. Box 1144
Paradise, CA 95967.

Boy, do I feel badly about this. I'll try not to let it happen again.

Brad Blevins

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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