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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Kelly Minnick <kminnick@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>
Subject: Lens
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 00:12:02 -0800 (PST)

I am trying to put all these silly pieces back together.  Guess I didn't buy
enough zip-lock bags... Does anyone have the *correct* part # for the USA
spec SIII Amber turn lens (4" diameter, not 2 1/2")?  Is there a source for
the odd (3"?) stop/tail light lens'? The rubber for all these lights is just
so-so after being out in the desert for 20 some years. Can we buy just the 
rubber surround?  Hey, just the box, roof and doors left and then I'm back
wheelin'  Later.
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari - Almost
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <kminnick@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>
Subject: lro stuff
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 00:45:28 -0800 (PST)

RE: Filters
I used a FRAM PH-8a on my '87 RR.  The oil pumps appear to be the same, so
spend $2.25 at Wal-Mart and try it.  You can buy the PH-1 high-performance
filter for $850 ea, but I'm cheap and change oil every 3000-3500 miles
anyway.

Jets: The lro parts book lists different jets available for the Zenith 36IV
and maybe the one for the 6 cylinder.  As Steve said, Retard that ignition...
Try the methanol trick or a different carb. I've seen major improvements with
High-energy ignition systems (newer AC/Delco, Jacobs, Malory, CDI).  They
put out about 40,000 Volts instead of a whimpy 18-20,000.  Good CDI systems
will have a Zener designed in to allow ringing (multiple firings) for more
complete combustion of the mixture.  Use to build these for dirt bikes before
the bikes came with them.  Maybe I should build some cheap units for Rover
heads to buy... Come to think of it, I'm running the silly stock coil! You
know what they say about the shoemaker's children...
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 08:51:08 -0500
From: Chrisste@cerf.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Reversing Lights

Okay, I know this sounds like a silly question. The Maryland State
Inspection station requires that all original equipment functions on my
1969 SIIA. The vehicle has reversing lights on it but they don't work. None
of the service manuals I have...official factory manuals...refer to
reversing lights. Is there a switch in the transmission that needs
replacing? Any suggestions.

Chris Stevens
Towson, Maryland
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
Chrisste@cerf.net

 R  1  3     2   H            "Land Rover's first, because
 +--|--|     |   |             Land Rovers last."
    2  4     4   L            '69 S.IIa 88"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 08:54:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu>
Subject: Misc Rambling

Good Morning,  
1) Mike my sympathy to you regarding Fern, ... Oh Hell you have three more.
2) My search about rebuilding an OD has ended, it does not seem worth it, 
so I am going to try and buy a new one.  The reason I say try is because 
the supply seems tight, everyone has them on BO.  I was also told 
something I would like your feedback on: Alantic British told me that 
they were no longer going to carry the Fairey OD, instead they are going 
to sell an OD made in Spain that they told me was OE in some parts of the 
world!  This is the first I have ever heard.  Anyone Know whats up?  They 
want $100-200 more than the prices on the Fairey OD.
3) Santa was good to me, NOS Warn M-11 hubs, New radiator core, new 
rocker arm shaft and rebushed rockers, and a CB.  Oh, the middle two 
items are because the grinch visited before santa did.  Wondered why 
those valves would not adjust.    
4) In trying not to have a rocker problem again, I have considered 
rebuilding the oil pump.  At low RPM at an angle my pressure light comes 
on.  At idle on the flat I have 35-40psi an on the highway 40-45.  These 
readings are from a Smiths gauge that came with the vehicle.  Does it 
sound like it needs a rebuild?  Also how can I check the accuracy of the 
gauge?  Is there a signal from the sender I can pick up with a multimeter?
5) Last issue, I have lost the info on how to retrieve the conversion 
list from the FTP site.  can someone forward me the message or the owner 
of the conversion list contact me.

Happy New Year everyone.  may your grip to the trail be true and the God 
of Lucas not short out on you.

Greg Brown
'71 Series IIA 88
Connecticut, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 09:35:38 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Randolf Rose wrote: "There are holes for only ONE set of lamps and my switch
is a single pole... blah blah"
The answer to the mistery is that all Br. vehicles started with Trafficators
and then eventally got flashers.   Most early vehicles had a turn signal relay
boc with 8 or so leads.  The relay allows the brake lights and flashers to
share the bright filament of a single lamp.  When you have the signal on,
the braking light is prevented from getting to the bright filament of the
side the flasher is flashing (sort of speak).  Call Moss Motors of Goleta CA
and get a copy of thier MGTC/D/F catalogue.  You will see the replacement unit
and could order it, but without the harness would probably do you little good.
Another solution is to go to a trailer shop and buy the same unit, although
I have no idea what its called: perhaps a turn signal/brake circut sharer.
I installed one on my 109 for towing a flatbed.  While the 109 has separate
signal and brake circuts.  The trailer has only a single tail lamp.  The unit
cost under $20 and came with wiring instructions.  Don't use those standard
radio shack type crimp connectors and don't ever twist the copper ends after
removing the insulation.  Always solder or use the proper bullet crimper to
make your connections otherwise oxidation will render your connections useless
after a few downpours.
By the way trafficators are a luminated arm that extends from the side of the
vehicle.  Used in England and I think parts of Europe until the mid-50s.
Fot those with the original type turn switch (receintly described as the MGA
type) can usually repair a bad one that does not delay and has to be held
by removing the unit taking it apart and using lanolyn or silicone grease to
lubericate the leather diaphram or soldering together a broken contact.  The
late MGTD/F and MGA all used this model switch as well as Morris, Wolsleys,
and so on.
Happy New Year All and watch out for those parts scams in Great Falls!
R&D.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 09:39:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: 6 cyl smog, and etc.

On 30 Dec 1994, Randolph Rose wrote:

> about the needle, the british car mailing list FTP site has a DOS program,
> haystack, for computing needles.  Haven't used it, but have seen there.

	If I recall correctly Haystack is for SU's.  Now, if I was only
	ambitious enough, I'd convert to RHD just so I could put on a
	TR-3 intake manifold and an SU or find a swan neck so I can
	leave the 109 LHD and put on a nice big SU.  Excellent carbs.
	Strombergs?  Yuck.

	Rgds,

	Dixon
	-20c outside.  Brrrr...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 09:51:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Reversing Lights

On Fri, 30 Dec 1994, Chris Stevens wrote:

> 1969 SIIA. The vehicle has reversing lights on it but they don't work. None
> of the service manuals I have...official factory manuals...refer to
> reversing lights. Is there a switch in the transmission that needs
> replacing? Any suggestions.

	There is a switch on the top front of the gearbox.  Pull the cover
	and you will see it sitting on the RH side where the selector rods
	go into the box.  The wires might be loose, the switch could be dead.

	If you can't get the lights to work, pull the reversing lights 
	off & put a blanking plate there.  (The lights themselves are
	standard MGB etc. reversing lights).

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 09:53:10 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

John Hess:
Thinking over your problem, there is one other final step worth mentioning.
On all side drafrs the mixture is set by adjusting the jet.  Raise the piston
1/16".  If the idel of the engine increases and holds then the mixture is
too rich.  If the idle drops or running slows and stops; the idle is too lean.
If the idle increases slightly and then drops; the the setting is just right
(also said by Goldielocks).  Moving the jet down from the needle will richen
the mixture , while moving the jet up will lean the fuel mixture.  Also make
sure your vaccuum advance and mechanical advance of the distributor are 
operational.  Suck the advance and hold your toung over the opening.  If
the sucking holds the the vac is operational (no comments from all you
comedians).  if you cannot creat a vaccuum with your mouth then the vac
unit is defective (I know all the comedians are very tempted here).
Turn the rotor gently and see if the distributor cam can rotate (that the
cam weights and advance springs are not seized).  A weak spark can
also be caused by a burnt cap and or rotor.  Check for even firing of
each plug wire by using a stroboscopic timing light.  An even flash
and the wire is OK an uneven pulse and the wire is suspect to failure.
I suppose weak spark or intermediate shorts in the high tension lead
could cause too many of those dreadful hydro carbons (I didn't take
organic chemistry, so I'm not sure - limited knowledge).
A last resort could be to install lumination and get a real hot coil
from say a late MGB.  Don't use the hot coil with standard Lucas points
though because they will melt; yes that's right melt.  Espically the 
bit that makes contact with the cam and opens the contacts.
I still think the best way to pass is to have then use the correct data
for your engine, assuming they have the wrong NADA information.
Happy New Year John,
R&D

------------------------------

From: pparsons@ppsol.com (Peter C. Parsons)
Subject: The 'Anti-Christ'
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 09:21: 1 MST

In a desperate attempt to look at an old Rover for awhile, 
I rented 'The Gods Must Be Crazy' last night. I hadn't seen
it since it first came out in about 1980, and at that time
I had no idea what a Land Rover was.  

	Now that I am a fledgling Rover addict, I watched
it again just to enjoy the rover 'the anti-christ' as it 
is called.  So if this hasn't been beaten to death before, 
I'd like to hear what anyone knows about the movie.  What
year Rover is it in the movie.  Is that particular rover
still 'alive' anywhere (It should be in the Rover Movie hall
of Fame), etc.  I'd like to hear any triva about the movie
that anyone has.  Was anyone actually around or involved in
the making of TGMBC?  Just thought I'd ask for fun!

-Peter

   | _______
   ||--' |  \_|_  
   T|___ +--    ]
   [|_/-\____/-\|}
      (O)    (O)     '94 Disco, ... 

		Note: Ski rack on back must have appeased the
		snow gods, it FINALLY snowed a bit last 		night!!
		
-Peter C. Parsons, 

 __________
|/\^_/v^/\^|
| SKYROVR  | 
|_colorado_|

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Yakima Racks and L-R Signs
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 09:15:00 PST

>>I bought myself a Yakima adapter for bolting the rack to the tropical 
roof. I know I could easily remove the sunsheet but would rather keep it. 
 ......   Any ideas? anyone done it?<<

Well I have a Yakima rack for my 72 88' with a tropical roof.  The main 
problem I had was getting towers tall enough (and vertical) enough to clear 
the sheet metal on the sides.  From the gutter, you need nine vertical 
inches with almost no inward lean.  I purchased "tower extensions" from 
Atlantic-British.  These are essentially just aluminum spacers which fit 
between the gutter brackets and the cross-bar attachment.  The rack now 
clears (barely) the tropical roof.  With the canoe and two bicycles mounted 
and a severe head wind on a rough road the rack DOES contact the aluminum. 
 Not ideal but certainly workable.  I visited the Yakima works in Arcata 
California a few years ago a demonstrated the problems with Land Rover hard 
tops.  They were intrigued but seemed disinclined to address "such a limited 
market".

I'm not clear on the nature of the problem you're having but I hope this 
helps.

and.....Maloney sez...

>>Santa treated me very well this year.  Some of the goodies he dropped off
were:  A large Land Rover Sales and Service sign (18"X24" - very nice 
repro)<<

I hafta brag....about 20 years ago I got some real Land Rover service signs 
for about $1 each.
Carbrey Motors in Willits, California was, I am told, the original LR dealer 
west of the Rockies.  This is Granville Poole's stomping grounds, about 150 
miles north of San Francisco.  Anyway the place sold Caterpillars, Ramblers 
and Land Rovers from the early 50s until 1972 (or 3) when the were unable to 
get any new series IIIs.  When they folded their tent I went thru their 
parts inventory and acquired a fair stock and got my Official signs...dark 
green logo on a mustard yellow field painted on an aluminum(!) oval.  One of 
them is near perfect, it musta faced north all it's working life.

Gerry

RM** - Give Pizza Chants

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 12:24:40 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Reverse Lights Etc.

Chris asked about Reverse switches:

It's on the top front of the gearbox on the RH side.  You'd best pull the 
tunnel to get at it.  One of the nuts that holds the bracket on is real 
difficult to undo.  Clean it off real good, then check for voltage at the hot 
lead and then continuity across the switch when thrown.  If it's OK, leave it
in place.

Greg asked about Spanish ODs:

Toro is the brand.  I have heard that they have a bigger oil reservoir and are
supposedly more robust than the Fairey units.  It's a direct replacement. I 
don't understand why ABP wants another $100-$200 for them.  It's funny, now 
that Superwinch bought out Fairey, the prices seem to have gone up and  the 
availability seems to have gone down.  You'd think Superwinch would have 
stabilized the market.

...and about Smiths Oil Pressure Senders:

They are rarely accurate.  The two things I would be concerned about are the 
light coming on at idle and the small variation between idle and running oil 
pressure.  It would be worth your while to strip the pump down and check for 
scoring in the gear housing, condition of the check valve ball and seat and 
replace the spring if all else seems ok.  Another helper can be to replace 
your rod bearings.  You can do it at the same time and it's not too difficult.
On second thought, undo the bearing caps and look at the bearings first.  
Replacing worn bearings can significantly improve oil pressure.

On another note:

Does anyone have a military parts book listing the one piece roll bar that 
doubles as the soft top frame mount?  If you could forward the Part Number, 
I'd really appreciate it.

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 11:43:21 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: safety inspections (was reversing lights)

On Fri, 30 Dec 1994, Chris Stevens wrote:

> Okay, I know this sounds like a silly question. The Maryland State
> Inspection station requires that all original equipment functions on my
> 1969 SIIA.

I know safety inspections are going to catch up with me, but let 
you tell you my story about mid-missouri inspections...

On LULU, the horn was disconnected.  It used to honk ok, but LULU
decided to start honking on her own -- while turning a corner and one
night at 3:30am, so (being lazy) I just unplugged the horn.  Well
at the inspection station, I *wanted* to hook it back up to show
the guy that it really indeed worked.  I was having trouble getting
it to work properly and it was taking a little time.  The inspection
man said "I thought I heard it honk...".  I wasn't that dumb and
said "you might be right..."  Car passed.  At home, I pry-ed the
center of the steering wheel off and looked around and popped it
back on.  Works great now and is currently hooked up (and honking
only when pressed)...

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 11:49:55 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: LRO ftp archives

MAJORDOMO is archiving the LRO digests, but only
keeping a few months.  There are MAJORDOMO commands
to query and retrieve those.   I manually have aquired an
archive of old LRO mailings.  The December-94
file won't be there till about Jan 5th.  Generic
instructions follow:

BTW, These could be put up on some web-browser if someone
has the time/space/codes...

***********************************************************************
** anonymous ftp notes -- note this works, other methods should too. **
***********************************************************************
NOTE:  Digests 92.8 thru 93.10 were collected by Mark Grieshaber and
       shared with me.  Digests 93.10 (late) thru current were
       collected by Ray Harder.
Obtaining LRO digests procedure:
   -- change to the proper directory on the receiving machine.
   -- issue the ftp command -- "ftp lulu.cc.missouri.edu".
   -- at the prompt, the user is anonymous and the password
      is anything, but the convention is the sender's user/node.
   -- have ftp cd to the LRO subdirectory -- "cd pub/lro"
   -- change to the proper directory on the receiving machine (if
      you didn't do it above -- "lcd Mail" (for example).
   -- issue the "mget" ftp command to transfer the files.         
   -- issue the "quit" ftp subcommand.
   -- Use your mailer to browse the files or print them for late
      night enjoyment.
   -- enjoy.
***********************************************************************
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 10:03:14 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Gas Tank Question

Re the LR versus the Explorer test -- thanks for the interesting excerpts!
I have often wondered how the Explorer would get on off-road with its
very low belly. Also, the rear shock mounts are really wide and nearly
scrape the ground (well, about 6 1/2 inches above it) so that the
diff clearance is not even the lowest point, and 2/3 of the axle width
is talken up with low-hanging parts.

Cheers for Land Rover!

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@icad.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 14:02:05 +0500
Subject: Glassmount antennas

Well, I gotta say this: I *did* compare a Diamond RH-770 magmount against
the Larsen dual-band glassmount.  I got about 1.5 dB better signal strength 
vs. distant repeaters with the RH-770 centered on the roof; and about 1 dB
worse signal when I had the RH-770 magmount on the rear bumper.

Pattern distortion- yeah, it happens.  I deal.  And I haven't noticed any
problems, which, by the First Rule of Land Rover maintenance, is no problem 
at all.  

(first rule:  Don't go looking for trouble, unless you are bored)

HOWEVER- I still have a nice, flat roof (great for loading stuff like luggage,
kayaks, big rocks, etc.)  I don't have to get out and take my antennas off
when I drive into a garage (well, 'cept at my parent's place, and there
I also gotta let the air out of the tires- it's a *really* low garage, and
a Discovery is 6' 2" tall as it comes from the factory)

For me, trading off a little bit of performance is well worth the other 
convenience factors (no roof holes to leak, nothing to bash off, no roof
scratches, minimal increase in vehicle height).  

	

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@icad.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 14:02:05 +0500
Subject: Glassmount antennas

Well, I gotta say this: I *did* compare a Diamond RH-770 magmount against
the Larsen dual-band glassmount.  I got about 1.5 dB better signal strength 
vs. distant repeaters with the RH-770 centered on the roof; and about 1 dB
worse signal when I had the RH-770 magmount on the rear bumper.

Pattern distortion- yeah, it happens.  I deal.  And I haven't noticed any
problems, which, by the First Rule of Land Rover maintenance, is no problem 
at all.  

(first rule:  Don't go looking for trouble, unless you are bored)

HOWEVER- I still have a nice, flat roof (great for loading stuff like luggage,
kayaks, big rocks, etc.)  I don't have to get out and take my antennas off
when I drive into a garage (well, 'cept at my parent's place, and there
I also gotta let the air out of the tires- it's a *really* low garage, and
a Discovery is 6' 2" tall as it comes from the factory)

For me, trading off a little bit of performance is well worth the other 
convenience factors (no roof holes to leak, nothing to bash off, no roof
scratches, minimal increase in vehicle height).  

	

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 11:46:10 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Glassmount antennas

I too find the glass mount convenient for the CB -- actually I leave the 
antenna itself under the carpet in the back seat unless I want to use it.
It makes things easier for car washes and garages.

Naturally, nothing can beat the coax through the roof with the antenna in the
middle of the roof, but we live in a world of compromises! 

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 11:46:53 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Open Road (new magazine)

Fellow Net-Rovers:

About a week ago, I picked up the "premiere issue" of _Open_Road_ magazine, 
put out by the _Road_&_Track_ folks, which looks at the "lifestyle" side of 
4-wheel-drive vehicles.  It is very different from other American 4x4 mags, 
i.e. no monster trucks and hot-rod show trucks.  Relief.  Word (via Fall 
issue of the _Aluminum_Workhorse_) has it that this mag would welcome 
submissions of articles on the stuff WE do.  

Remarkably, for an American magazine, about half the magazine is either 
about Land-Rovers and Range Rovers or is about something else and has 
pictures of our most-loved beasts sprinkled throughout.  Very nice.  Article 
on La Ruta Maya, the Andean Camel Trophy, the new Range Rover, and numerous 
travel articles with Rovers. Unfortunately, the cover features a bigger than 
life foto of the "new" Ford Explorer which the magazine calls "incredible" 
or some such.  The incredible part is that it has gotten uglier (or less 
handsome, you pick) and has had no improvement in its abysmal lack of wheel 
travel.  The only good part that I can see is that it offers an interesting 
new "as needed" four-wheel-drive system which senses impending slippage and 
automatically engages, rather akin to the way ABS works for brakes.  
Actually, it seems to me that the old GMC "deuce-and-a-halfs" that we drove 
in the Army had a system that worked something like that.  Probably not 
nearly as sophisticated, though...

Anyway, take a look at this new mag.  Not too bad...

Happy New Year, everyone!
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ G.B.Pool(Redwood Vly, CA, USA)Appraiser,R/W Agent,Land-Rover aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 16:03:07 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Prince of Darkness returns

I never cease to be amazed (or should that be appalled) at the perversity
of the Prince of Darkness.  Driving home last evening, I noticed that one
headlight (of a new set of Hellas) was a bit dimmer than the other.  I
know...the Lucas corporate motto is "a good day's work and home before
dark."  No problem, sez I, just a ground that needs shining up.  Indeed,
the auxilliary ground for that headlight had come loose entirely.  While
refitting the lead, *the other headlight goes out* and reamins out even
after the detached ground is reestablished!  I immediately scurry inside
for a larger and more effective implement of discipline (specifically, a
.475 H&H express rifle), but before I could get the Prince in my sights,
the light begins working again.  And I once had a condenser fail whilst
repacking a rear whee bearing....

May the coming year be free from the Prince and his minions...Happy New
Year to you all.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 94 20:31:18 -0500
From: guild@sail.uwaterloo.ca (Paul D. Guild)
Subject: XMAS gift from my Land Rover

This is my second posting to LRO Digest, and I have a problem which
requires some pondering! I live up in Northern Quebec, about 40 miles from
Ottawa, with wife, son, dog and a 1974 Series III Land Rover, that I am
trying to keep in good original condition.

The problem started over a month ago when it seemed to be charging
intermittently. I took the LUCAS <gasp> alternator into a shop in Ottawa to
check. They replaced the stator and voltage regulator to the tune of $150.
I put it on and everything seemed OK.

Last weekend I took it for a longer drive and noticed on the way back that
it had gone off charge. I left it for a week and then went out to check it
for the trip. When I went to start it I noticed the warning light was not
on.

I thought aha!, the warning light is burnt out and because it is directy
connected to the circuit the alternator is not charging. Several hours
later I was convinced that the alternator was the problem. Because if I
took a jumper lead and connected it to the IND terminal on the back of the
alternator, and then to the negative post of the battery the warning light
would come on.

Yesterday being XMAS eve, I was getting desperate and went over to a
friend's place to borrow an alternator - (Dr John Wotton - for OVLR
members) - whose poor Land Rover is now resting peacefully under a
crabapple tree, waiting for a frame restoration.

Brought it home, put it on. Same problem! Now is it possible that 2 LUCAS
alternators would both have the same problem? Decided to investigate
further! After several hours yesterday I have tried the following.

Have checked and bypassed connections on both sides of the warning light.
Everything OK. I can get the light to light up if I ground the connection
that goes to the IND terminal of the alternator.

I have tried grounding the alternator directly to the negative post of the
battery. NO change.

I have checked both the the S and + connections to the alternator. OK,
power is going thru them to the alternator.

Does this warning light simply get power from the white wire coming from
the ignition switch and ground thru the IND terminal of the alternator? If
so it would seem that there is a open circuit in the alternator!

This is getting long, so I am going to leave it there. I hope that is enough.

At this point I am still perplexed, so I guess the LR will be resting
peacefully till early January, as we go off in our old VOLVO.

A Hearty Merry Christmas to all LAND ROVER enthusiasts out there!! :-{>

Cheers!

PS. I tried to post this on XMAS day, but could not get on thru my service
provider
so I am posting this from a friend's site who I am visiting over the holidays!

So now it is Happy New Year to all LAND ROVER enthusiasts out there!! :-{>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Dec 1994 20:57:23 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman C. Wing)
Subject: a few questions

Well, I tore into the new(to me at least) Rover today and discovered some
interesting things. First, the bulkhead is a bit worse than I originally
thought, with both door pillar bottoms rotted completely away. the
footwells are nearly nonexistant, and the top of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment is well perforated. One of my friends who fortunately happens
to be very good with a Mig welder says it's all fixable, but a bit of a
project. On the other hand, the frame is amazingly solid. I've hit it,
poked at it, and scraped surface rust off, and I can't find any weak areas
at all, even at the usual points. The rear crossmember was replaced and
rather badly bodged, but it's definitely strong. Also, the drivetrain seems
very good, with a strong motor and very little play in the diffs and
bearings and so forth. I just think it's a bit strange to find the bulkhead
so far gone on an otherwise solid vehicle. Anyway, I had a few quick
questions as a LR novice:

        1. Is Rovers North generally the best place to get sheetmetal
parts? I can get a lot of parts from England when my parents go over in
March, but I would like to get the doors back on asap.
        2. Are there any tricks to repairing the bulkhead besides the
obvious?(door alignment, etc)
        3. The heater I have seems a bit odd, it dosen't appear in any of
the manuals I have. It has a large blower motor in the engine compartment
with a squarish box in the passenger footwell with several vents on it.
Would this be a Kodiak heater?(he asked hopefully)

Sorry to go on so much, but I can't stop talking about my new toy!

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 1994 02:13:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: a few questions

Bramen has a few questions...

> Well, I tore into the new(to me at least) Rover today and discovered some
> interesting things. First, the bulkhead is a bit worse than I originally
> thought, with both door pillar bottoms rotted completely away. the
......
> project. On the other hand, the frame is amazingly solid. I've hit it,

One of the '71s I have is like that. Real nice solid frame and a
swiss-cheese bulkhead.. Go figure

> so far gone on an otherwise solid vehicle. Anyway, I had a few quick
> questions as a LR novice:
>         1. Is Rovers North generally the best place to get sheetmetal
> parts? I can get a lot of parts from England when my parents go over in
none

Rovers North, except for a few items, sells nothing but "genuine" Rover
stuff. Atlantic British is a bit more creative and chases all over looking
for "bargains". Prices generally run about the same between the two. Don't
have any experiance with other places. I've done more business with ABP,
simply because they are close by. I suppose the main differance is genuine
vs non-genuine. I would compare it to do you always go back to the Chevy
dealer for replacement parts or do you buy stuff from NAPA??   

>         3. The heater I have seems a bit odd, it dosen't appear in any of
> the manuals I have. It has a large blower motor in the engine compartment
> with a squarish box in the passenger footwell with several vents on it.
> Would this be a Kodiak heater?(he asked hopefully)

Sounds like a Kodiak... sounds identical to what I have in the '65. Puts out
lots more heat than the original heater. There is another version (the MkII)
that has a larger heater core and less vents on the "squarish box". You
should also have a heater control "panel" with three knobs - one for heat,
one for air and one for the blower motor.

Bramen... I had assumed from your E-Mail address that you were somewhere
near Cornell University. Apparently, you're not. So where *are* you, anyway?

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 1994 02:13:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Question

Steve Marsh (smarsh@halcyon.com) wonders about going out in a blaze of glory.
> Auto safety studies seem to indicate that the gas tanks mounted on the
> side of 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> the gas tanks mounted under the seats in the SWB Land Rover subject to
> the same problem?
Only if they get hit by some Chevy truck... :)  If it's *my* SWB Landy you
only have to worry about getting hit by falling trees in the back yard!

There's a key word here...   SEEM    Auto safty studies SEEM to... 

To tell you the truth, I've never heard of anyone's Land Rover burning up
from a side impact.

Hey.... is HALCYON a fire extinguisher company ?????  just wondering.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

 

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 1994 02:13:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Reversing Lights

Chris Stevens meets Joe Lucas....

> Okay, I know this sounds like a silly question. The Maryland State
> Inspection station requires that all original equipment functions on my
> 1969 SIIA. The vehicle has reversing lights on it but they don't work.

Not so silly a question. OK... check the switch on the tranny.. If that's
OK, then check the wiring in the back by the lights.. You got this truck
from New York, right?? The wiring comes up from the bottom of the rear tub
behind the rear wheels and is subject to lots of road crap (Water, dirt,
salt, dead squirels, etc). You could have bad connections. I had that
problem and *also* had a bad tranny switch. So... I fixed the connections
and installed a dashboard switch for the backup lights. 

I think that reverse lights were required in the US in 1968. Your manual may
not show them if it was published earlier.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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