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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 Kelly Minnick [minnick@j57Rovers
2 Steven M Denis [denis@o36Re: Speedie Rovers
3 Steven M Denis [denis@o35Re: I failed my smog test!
4 Jimmy Patrick [jimmyp@ck28I have done it.
5 jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John16gifs
6 David John Place [umplac17Re: Rovers
7 LANDROVER@delphi.com 33Re: Rovers
8 jpappa01@InterServ.Com 52Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
9 UncleBrad@aol.com 36import 110s to US?
10 Benjamin Allan Smith [be29[not specified]
11 "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" [1040Non genuine weatherstripping
12 sohearn@InterServ.Com (S27Zippo / GIF's / Christmas (what a combo!)
13 David John Place [umplac27Re: Non genuine weatherstripping
14 "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa31Re: I have done it.
15 jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john40License plates
16 Joseph Broach [PC7170@UT17 LR's for sale (TN)
17 Steven M Denis [denis@o23Re: Rovers
18 Steven M Denis [denis@o27Re: LR


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From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Rovers
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 2:23:25 PST

I have a few questions and comments:
1.  I'm completely restoring my vehicle.  When I put my seat box and floor
pans in, what is the best sealant to use?  Silicone sealant is a pain if
you ever have to take the box back out (clutch work?).  Ideas?
2.  Frozen oil plugs:  The plug is in fact steel.  The threaded piece on
the pan that the plug goes into is just brazed on so don't heat the pan
too hot.
3.  Air bags for the USA Defender.  What's the big deal.  There is an 
aftermarket air bag for about $900.
4.  Oil Filter adapter for the 2.25L.  I bought mine from a guy in Canada for
$35 postage paid.  The address is at work.  Write me if you need it.  Takes
the Fram PH-8a - Very common.  I priced the adaptor for the 2.5L Defender
fron Paddocks and they wanted $142.  Either they were confused or that was
new price.
5.  Kick pannels.  I was able to get my kick pannels on with the door handles
in place, i.e. use nuts and bolts.  But what I did was go to the hardware
shop and get clip-on nut plates.  I can then tread the bolts in blind.
6.  Weather strip - Buy from the UK.  I've seen people use the 'one piece'
units for the D90 on the series, but you have to trim the sheet metal mount.
They say they seal much better...
7.  Buy you manuals from the LRO Bookshop.  I bought my RR one there and
it was about 40% of the cost...
8.  Oil pressure delay in a diesel is not healthy.  With a high compression,
the journal & big end bearings take on high load.  There is a company
that makes the 'pre-luber' that pumps up your oil passages to 60 psi before
you start your motor.  Problem is it's about $500.
9.  Holley carb.  I have one of those that I got off a '60 Ford PU
10.  Rear doors with glass from Craddock is about $65. (Shipping is another
thing).  Why buy used, rusted out ones?
11.  Best vehicle design ever?  Why do they get so much rust, then?  Can't
these frames be dipped like is common practice nowadays?  And felt axle
seals that leak.  Sure, it's a simple job, but you never have to do it
on a Dana axle...  And that silly timing chain adjuster pawl.  I've had
two shear off. That's not very robust when I'm out toolin' in the Desert
at 115F and then I'm stranded...  Why not gears like the American in-line
under-head valve engines.  Sure, Zeusus (sp?) sells a kit for I think
200 pounds.  A little pricey for me.  only paid $150 more for my first
LR!  And what about the diffs that explode?  I don't mean to complain -
'cause I love the silly thing.  It is one of the easiest machines to
work on and I like the looks - call me wierd!
12.  Zenith 36IVE's - Yes, they are cheap pot metal.  I bought one for
$10 (36IV) because the guy couldn't make his vehicle idle.  Well, the
throttle shaft and the carb were attacking each other!  I bought a new
throttle shaft and pressed in two new bronze bushes.  Hope it works!
13.  Every smog place I've gone to requires (yes requires) the factory
original equipment before they will even attempt to smog my stuff. The
Rochester was way lower than required, but it was not original!

Thanks for listening,
Kelly Minnick ('73 88" safari)
Ridgecrest,CA  USA

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:35:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Speedie Rovers

Ok...to disassemble the speedo you take the bezel in one hand and the 
body in the other and twist...if you look there are bezel tabs that index 
with notches on the body....
Ok..you now take the 2 screws out of the back and the "head" falls out in 
your hand....
Now you will see how this works...the cable drives a worm gear that 
drives a crank that "notches" the odometer around...the fiber gear that 
drives this often cracks and fails...I have replaced these using a gear from 
a *really* broken speedo.......
the cable also drives a circular magnet that turns inside the edge of a 
metal "cup"..actually it looks more like a mini round baking tin...
the cup or tin is conneced, via a shaft, to the needle...the faster the 
magnet turns the further the needle goes...the needle is returned to zero 
by a round hair spring....some speedo cables are wound backwards and will 
thread the oil up to the speedo head..the magnetic coupling becomes a 
hydraulic coupling and your rover goes "90 mph" before you hit 2nd gear....
I suspect that the bushing in the speedo head is dry and a spritz of light 
machine oil will set it right...that and look for the broken fiber 
gear... also cause by lack of lube on the driven shaft (Stop right there 
Maloney) go ahead and take it apart....it's broken anyway....!
If you can't fix it...someone on the net must have a good spare to post 
out...Right folks?

steve....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:57:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: I failed my smog test!

OK John,,,roll up the sleeves....this is where we tell the men from the 
boys..(sorry terriann, Jan1, Jan2 etc.)

W/O going nuts here....the Idle is too rich..excess fuel....it is not due 
to high float level as the high rpm reading would suffer also....
set the idle speed *exactly* on the money.....then adjust the idle mixure 
(if it is adjutable..working from memory here folks..) until  the beast 
starts to stumble *Slooooly* adust it out untill the rpm is the highest 
and readjust the speed.....If it doesent have an adjustment on the out 
side, you will have to drop the needle lower in in the jet...there are 
seveal different ways to do this...some carbs you turn the jet holder in 
(thats the adjustment on the bottom center of the carb)..on others one has 
to adjust the the needle position in the slide (gotta take the silly 
thing to bits) This may be a good time to get a new jet and needle and 
install them.....follow the centering directions in the book....
You are not far off really...the idle speed thing alone may cure it....
Oh....BTW...gut the air cleaner....or at least put fresh oil in it...it 
will effect the readings..(only at the higher speeds, normally, but this 
is a rover and ain't nutin' normal..) DON"T FORGET THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT!
I know the exhausts are a pain.....but 50 bucks is 50 bucks and they need 
it anyway!

steve.......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 10:51:07 -0500
From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk>
Subject: I have done it.

Dear Friends,

Until today I was the owner of a perfectly good truck and a motorcycle. So
there was no reason for me to do what I have done. Today I traded a big
pile of hard-earned cash for a 1960 SWB Land-Rover. I am still in shock,
but I shall recover soon. It is quite a handful to drive. I shall recover
from that too I suppose. It takes 20 pounds worth of petrol (maybe more, I
ran out of money). It's loud. It's cold. It's ugly. It is slow.
Synchromesh? What's that? But it is mine. I am sure that I will have many
questions for you in the near future. hopefully I will soon be able to add
some answers of my own. Thanks to all who have given me advice over the
last few months of my search. Now all I have to do is get it from Bracknell
(UK) to Northern California.

Cheers from a new Land-Rover Owner.

Jimmy Patrick

--

CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192
                                                  

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:16:24 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: gifs

Happy holidays!

The gifs came through perfectly.  Glad to see that the last one has the oil
leak exactly where mine is, makes me feel normal.

Good job, thanks,

John Hess, PhD                    Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Human Anatomy             FAX me 916 752 8520
University of Calif               Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu
Davis, CA                         or leave me alone, your choice.

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 12:12:49 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rovers

I have found that the putty strips used for installing the windows in RVs 
is the best material to use.  It comes attached to paper and is in a 
roll.  You simply roll out the amount you need to cover the four sides 
and then take the paper off as you apply it.  Put down the floor and then 
cut off the excess material that will ooze out the side.  It will not 
completly harden so it can be removed later when you need to take up the 
floor and it is water proof.  A type of material I have used between the 
box and the top is cell foam used to attach camper tops.  It too has a 
clear plastic backing and the other side is a non sticky clear plastic 
skin.  When you stick the material down withe the sticky side, the other 
side lets you remove the camper topp over and over but it is still water 
and dust tight.  It is by far the best.  Dave VE4PN

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 13:20:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rovers

Kelly...

> 1.  I'm completely restoring my vehicle.  When I put my seat box and floor
> pans in, what is the best sealant to use?  Silicone sealant is a pain if
> you ever have to take the box back out (clutch work?).  Ideas?

I've used silicone... yup.. it's a pain but it does peel off..  There are
lots of differant type of caulking available in squeeze tubes and guns.
There is also some type of flat caulking which comes in a roll with a
wax-type of release paper. I seem to remember someone talking about that.  

> 4.  Oil Filter adapter for the 2.25L.  I bought mine from a guy in Canada
> for
> $35 postage paid.  The address is at work.  Write me if you need it.

I'm interested.. Could you send me the address please. 

Hey.. you must know Ben Smith... (bens@archimedes.chinalake.navy.mil).
Haven't heard from him in a while. If you see him,  say Howdy!

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

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From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 12:22:32 PST
Subject: Re: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

noticed some queries about def90 quality and reliability. The same little 
things that niggle and wiggle on our series cars still tend to niggle and 
wiggle on the 90. BUT, beneath the wiggles jiggles and niggles beats the heart 
of a lion... I've been driving one for almost 6 months. it is tight, 
rattle-free and has such a huge performance envelope (on-road) over not only 
the series (still love mine!) cars, but over the wrangler (sic) and hummer but 
also retains the legendary off-road performance of the series cars albeit with 
a very long and compliant suspension..

The motor is bulletproof. The tranny is 3/4 tonne. I've been driving the 
hardtop (glass fibre model) for a week now, and yes the interior noise has 
been reduced to the point that you can hear the stereo, the heat stays in 
scads better, and you can see much better through nice, clear glass! 
Outstanding, especially in the snowbelts.

As with our series cars, PM is key, and loyal owners will automatically do 
this, won't they?

The chassis is stronger that the older cars, has drain holes, and is 
wax-injected. The roll cage really does make for a stouter vehicle, safety 
aside. I read a remark on the `net the other night from someone who got 
semantic (no flame) about what constitutes chassis stiffening - i.e. - 
compression, tension, etc. Agree. But, with the six point cage tying into the 
chassis rails and transversely tied in with the tube behind the seats, the is 
arguably making for one strong truck. It tracks beautifully, too. I love this 
defender 90 and will not rest until I own one.

Pricing issues vs. volume. 
Again, this is a 2-door TRUCK in the eyes of the DOT. Hence, a 25% import 
duty! Doesn't go into anybody's pocket except uncle sam's. No luxury or gas 
tax because all the LR range exceeds the 6000# gvwr and is exempt from gas tax 
for same reason - they are considered trucks (good news).

There is lotsa life left in the 90. The limited aluminum hardtop I finally got 
to see the other day - its gorgeous in conniston. It really looks like a 
series car except for the nose. Headliner a little chintzy, but that really 
isn't the point, is it? On this car? Love `em. Don't forget, most of us bought 
our first series cars when they had had at least one or two previous owners - 
this allowed us to reach into them to begin with. The 90's will go through the 
same cycle. We'll all eventually be able to afford one if we want. 

regards
Jim
roverheadus extremis outofcontrolliatas

jpappa01@interserv.com

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From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 15:27:13 -0500
Subject: import 110s to US?

I got a call yesterday morning from mike Smith of Maine. He owns a company
called East Coast Rover Co. Mike's phone number is 207-236-8169. He told me
that HE got a call from a fellow who claims to have something like 400 1991 &
1992 110s & 90s pre-approved by DOT (the Department of Transportation in the
U.S.) and the EPA (the Environmental Protection Agency). In fact, the guy
says, they are already here on U.S. soil.

He wants to sell them for aroud the $10,000 _ $15,000 range but will only
sell them in lots of 10 vehicles, so Mike thought that there might be a few
people out there who would want to go together with him to buy one of these
lots.

I must say that this sounds pretty fishy to me. NO ONE has been able to bring
in 90s or 110s to date, legally. Not only that but the vehicles are,
supposedly, diesels. They would be tougher, yet. Mike is planning to do some
research to see whether this guy is telling the truth but even if he gave it
a clean bill of health, I'd want to make my own investigation before spending
my money. And I'd make it a very thorough investigation, too. This is the
stuff scams are made of.

Myles Murphy, also of Maine, called up last night. He had received a call
from our mystery man too. Myles is convinced that it's a scam.

Of course, if this is not a scam, There are a whole bunch of legal late model
Land Rovers out there at great prices.

If you hear anything more about this, could you let me know? I'll do the
same.

Brad Blevins, 510-687-1188

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Subject: Re: The Zenith of Carbs? 
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 16:03:04 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <2EEF8277@msm1.WellsFargo.COM>you wrote:

> and ..>>Living out here in California, the EPA people seem to want me to 
> have all
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> pot and solenoid fuel cut-off).  Mine even had an EGR valve which I thought
> was only on the Austrailian market!<<

	I was down at British Pacific today discussing this very problem.
the Zenith Carb that went on the SIIIs, is no longer made or supported.
There existsa similar Zenith, which does not have the fuel cut off solinoid.
Legally, you have origional equipment (I.e. with the fuel cutoff 
solinoid).  So what British Pacific offered to do for me was to help
get a waver from California since the origional equipment no longer
exists.  

	First I'm going to try to fast talk the local mechanics to passing
my LR with the Webber.  but if that fails...

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications Internation Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

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Date: 17 Dec 94 19:30:05 EST
From: "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" <100042.254@compuserve.com>
Subject: Non genuine weatherstripping

John Hess wrote last wednesday asking about weatherstripping:

 The non-genuine will work and is much easier to work with then the ol' rivet
job.  Half the fun is getting the old stuff off and then the old metal as
well.  The best solution I have found is to use Defender (or similar)
weatherstripping.  There is a small lip at the edge of the door frame that
will need to be straightened in order to get a good fit.  The weatherstripping
on the defender is one complete piece without a metal insert.  Once the lip on
the door frame is straightened you just simply slide the one piece rubber
strip on - no glue needed to keep it in place.

 1)  |_   ->  |     straighten lip out on door frame

    (^lip    ^-straightened door frame)

 2)  |    <-------straightened door frame
    V    <-------weather stripping now slides easily over entire frame

 A lot of vehicles use this type of weatherstripping - Ford transit vans, etc
- and this would be much cheaper than buying LR.  This is one of the very few
things I would say is better to go non-original(rivet strips being original)
on.  It takes 5 minutes to install, when it rots it takes 5 min to replace and
is a lot cheaper!

 ___________________________________________________________________
 Any Interest for a Martin Walters Dormobile?

 Cheers,

 Leslie Stutsman____________________________________________
 UK Land Rover Import/Export              1959 88" Van side
 Fax/Ph (01144) 51 707 2075               1956 86" Soft top trialler
                                         1965 88" currently for sale in
                                         Florida
                                         Too many others to list

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 17:00:38 PST
From: sohearn@InterServ.Com (Stephen OHearn)
Subject: Zippo / GIF's / Christmas (what a combo!)

Bummer on the Zippo :(

The last digest has got to be a record. Any chance of these GIF's being
placed on one of the Web servers?

Even better, would someone with a scanner be interested in receiving
photos from everyone on the list showing themselves and/or their LR? Then
these images could be put on a Web server or ftp site. I know this is
asking a lot but it would be kind of cool. It's an idea anyway.

One week 'til Christmas, what have people out there gotten their LR for
the holidays? Not to worry, I'm sure all Rovers (with the possible exception
of the new Range Rover) are computer and net challenged <g> so the surprises
are safe.

- Stephen

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Stephen O'Hearn            1994           LAND-            Tread Lightly |
| El Segundo, CA, USA      DEFENDER           -ROVER         on Public and |
| sohearn@interserv.com       90        The Best 4x4xFar     Private Lands |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 20:07:08 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Non genuine weatherstripping

Don't bend that lip!  I am using a weatherstrip which goes on without 
rivets and it comes with a glue material which sticks like a weld job.  
It is hammered on with a rubber mallet and it catches the lip so if you 
take it off you are screwed!  I will try to get a name and type for the 
list during my Christmas holiday.  I replaced my door seals with a type 
of seal which uses pop rivets and it also works like a charm.  I would 
not like to do any cutting when there are lots of products which do the 
job real well and don't lessen the value of the old beasts.  For those 
trying to get the old stuff off, it only takes minutes if you are lucky 
enough to have air tools.  Get a chisel the width of the channel and 
make sure it is the one with the "V" groove in it.  Get the chisel 
under the metal and the rubber and cut off the rivet with the chisel.  
Hold it at a very shallow angle so that you don't did into the 
aluminium.  It works great and it took me about two or three minutes 
per door using this method.
Dave VE4PN 17 Dec 1994, LESLIE C. STUTSMAN wrote:

> John Hess wrote last wednesday asking about weatherstripping:
>  The non-genuine will work and is much easier to work with then the ol' rivet
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 42 lines)]
>                                          Florida
>                                          Too many others to list

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From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: I have done it.
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 18:07:47 -0800 (PST)

Hi Jimmy,

Congratulations.  You are now a certifiably insane Land Rover Owner (I
know, it's redundant).  I haven't gotten down to the DMV to have them
confirm my list of rules on importing vehicles into California, but a 1960 
should be a piece of cake. As soon as the work load lets up a little bit, 
I'll get there.  Should be sometime in late 1996.

When do you plan to return to California?  How will you be shipping this 
beast back?  Roll-on/roll-off to the East Coast?  Container to 
California?  Ferry across the Bering Strait, and dog sledge from Nome?  If 
you are going to go the container route, I expect that there are a lot of 
people who would like to help you stuff it with parts (and share the 
cost, of course).

BTW, just how big was the pile of hard-earned cash you exchanged for your
new pride and joy.  We are always interested in comparisons.  Just 
academic curiosity, of course <8->)

 
> Dear Friends,
> Until today I was the owner of a perfectly good truck and a motorcycle. So
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
> Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 18:17:08 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess)
Subject: License plates

For those of you interested in the mundane,

I went to DMV to sign the dormobile up in ca.  I failed smog, but they are
happy to take your money and wait for all the forms to show up later.  I
need an official letter from ME DMV in reponse to the CA DMV request for
title.  I send the ca form to maine, then they send it back with their own
form saying we don't title cars that old.  Then CA says OK, if Maine won't
give a title, we'll make own up ourselves.

The california legislature can't be bothered to really take action on
things that might make the state better, but they have a bunch of pretty
license plates one can sign up for!  One has a pic. of Yosemite, one has a
desert scene, one is a picture by a guy I know (Wayne Thiebaud).  All the
special plates generate money for special things;  However, before the
state makes new plates, they want 5000 orders in advance, so I don't know
what is available.  Also, if you want a special witty plate, you first
check a book to see if its taken except that the book is from 1991 and
there is the chance that a taken plate could now be available!  So they
have to check for you, except that you can only list 2 choices.  DORMOBL is
taken.  So is BEAST.
My wife likes L BEAST  (sort or spanish, L for el)
I like R BEAST   (rover or roving or our)

Would ya'll (musta picked that up in Texas) like to offer suggestions?  The
winner can pay for the special plates for me!  8^)  On regular plates, you
get 7 letters, on picture plates, you get 6 plus one small space between
words if you want.

Thanks,

john f hess phd (wow, really?)
jfhess@ucdavis.edu
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and good ol reliable Mazda owner!

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Date:         Sat, 17 Dec 94 21:20:20 LCL
From: Joseph Broach <PC7170@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      LR's for sale (TN)

      A friend without access wanted me to post the following Rover's 4sale:

      They are located about 60 miles south of Knoxville (TN) in Athens, TN

  **  '66 109 5-dr Safari Wagon......Frame-off restoration, rebuilt engine &
       transmission, haven't seen this one but supposedly beautiful condition
       $16,500 B.O.

  **  '71 88 IIa's......Both are mechanically sound, one good body, the other
       a rough body but good frame $5,000 B.O. for the pair.

       For inquries please call Jackie Bookout at (615)-263-2784

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Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 23:05:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Rovers

That canadian oil adapter is for the birds (IMHO)...It is nearly 
impossible to install...Hint...grind flats on both washers as the casting 
is crude enough that the bolts will not start straight with the full 
diameter washers in place...It took me over an hour to install on a 
109.....to give you an idea..it then only took me 2 hrs to pull the 
engine on an 88.....

make sure you install the adapter right side up..the directions are not 
clear on this point.....

steve.....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Sun, 18 Dec 1994 00:07:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: LR

On Tue, 13 Dec 1994, Kelly Minnick wrote:

> 2.  Why would the windshield height be any different on the 90 vs the sIII?
> If the doors are the same, wouldn't the shields have to be at the same
> height?  Maybe I haven't spent enough time at the dealers.  By the way,
> where do you guys get the money for these US spec 90's?  At $33K, I say ouch!
none
The glass area stops well short of the mating edge of the roof and the 
wind screen frame on the series cars... the 90/110 screen has the glass 
extending to within 1 inch of the joint *and* the mating edge is actully 
up in the roof, not on the edge...picture both roofs flat on the ground 
w/o the side panels..the series roof would touch the ground all the way 
around except where the rear door/hatch opening is...the 90/110 touches 
on the sides but the front edge is like a larger rear door opening....
W/O a large amount of fooling around, it is impossible to fit a 90 top to 
a series 3 and like that... the 110 to 109 can be done and all the parts 
(screen and roof)are piled on the 107 sw waiting for warmer weather/more 
time....
All the above relates to *full* hard tops.. the 90 cab roof and screen 
could be fitted, of course...... 
steve....
(good lord, *look* at the time!)

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