[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Kelly Minnick [minnick@j | 57 | Rovers |
2 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 36 | Re: Speedie Rovers |
3 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 35 | Re: I failed my smog test! |
4 | Jimmy Patrick [jimmyp@ck | 28 | I have done it. |
5 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John | 16 | gifs |
6 | David John Place [umplac | 17 | Re: Rovers |
7 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 33 | Re: Rovers |
8 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 52 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
9 | UncleBrad@aol.com | 36 | import 110s to US? |
10 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 29 | [not specified] |
11 | "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" [10 | 40 | Non genuine weatherstripping |
12 | sohearn@InterServ.Com (S | 27 | Zippo / GIF's / Christmas (what a combo!) |
13 | David John Place [umplac | 27 | Re: Non genuine weatherstripping |
14 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 31 | Re: I have done it. |
15 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john | 40 | License plates |
16 | Joseph Broach [PC7170@UT | 17 | LR's for sale (TN) |
17 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 23 | Re: Rovers |
18 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 27 | Re: LR |
From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil> Subject: Rovers Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 2:23:25 PST I have a few questions and comments: 1. I'm completely restoring my vehicle. When I put my seat box and floor pans in, what is the best sealant to use? Silicone sealant is a pain if you ever have to take the box back out (clutch work?). Ideas? 2. Frozen oil plugs: The plug is in fact steel. The threaded piece on the pan that the plug goes into is just brazed on so don't heat the pan too hot. 3. Air bags for the USA Defender. What's the big deal. There is an aftermarket air bag for about $900. 4. Oil Filter adapter for the 2.25L. I bought mine from a guy in Canada for $35 postage paid. The address is at work. Write me if you need it. Takes the Fram PH-8a - Very common. I priced the adaptor for the 2.5L Defender fron Paddocks and they wanted $142. Either they were confused or that was new price. 5. Kick pannels. I was able to get my kick pannels on with the door handles in place, i.e. use nuts and bolts. But what I did was go to the hardware shop and get clip-on nut plates. I can then tread the bolts in blind. 6. Weather strip - Buy from the UK. I've seen people use the 'one piece' units for the D90 on the series, but you have to trim the sheet metal mount. They say they seal much better... 7. Buy you manuals from the LRO Bookshop. I bought my RR one there and it was about 40% of the cost... 8. Oil pressure delay in a diesel is not healthy. With a high compression, the journal & big end bearings take on high load. There is a company that makes the 'pre-luber' that pumps up your oil passages to 60 psi before you start your motor. Problem is it's about $500. 9. Holley carb. I have one of those that I got off a '60 Ford PU 10. Rear doors with glass from Craddock is about $65. (Shipping is another thing). Why buy used, rusted out ones? 11. Best vehicle design ever? Why do they get so much rust, then? Can't these frames be dipped like is common practice nowadays? And felt axle seals that leak. Sure, it's a simple job, but you never have to do it on a Dana axle... And that silly timing chain adjuster pawl. I've had two shear off. That's not very robust when I'm out toolin' in the Desert at 115F and then I'm stranded... Why not gears like the American in-line under-head valve engines. Sure, Zeusus (sp?) sells a kit for I think 200 pounds. A little pricey for me. only paid $150 more for my first LR! And what about the diffs that explode? I don't mean to complain - 'cause I love the silly thing. It is one of the easiest machines to work on and I like the looks - call me wierd! 12. Zenith 36IVE's - Yes, they are cheap pot metal. I bought one for $10 (36IV) because the guy couldn't make his vehicle idle. Well, the throttle shaft and the carb were attacking each other! I bought a new throttle shaft and pressed in two new bronze bushes. Hope it works! 13. Every smog place I've gone to requires (yes requires) the factory original equipment before they will even attempt to smog my stuff. The Rochester was way lower than required, but it was not original! Thanks for listening, Kelly Minnick ('73 88" safari) Ridgecrest,CA USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:35:07 -0500 (EST) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: Speedie Rovers Ok...to disassemble the speedo you take the bezel in one hand and the body in the other and twist...if you look there are bezel tabs that index with notches on the body.... Ok..you now take the 2 screws out of the back and the "head" falls out in your hand.... Now you will see how this works...the cable drives a worm gear that drives a crank that "notches" the odometer around...the fiber gear that drives this often cracks and fails...I have replaced these using a gear from a *really* broken speedo....... the cable also drives a circular magnet that turns inside the edge of a metal "cup"..actually it looks more like a mini round baking tin... the cup or tin is conneced, via a shaft, to the needle...the faster the magnet turns the further the needle goes...the needle is returned to zero by a round hair spring....some speedo cables are wound backwards and will thread the oil up to the speedo head..the magnetic coupling becomes a hydraulic coupling and your rover goes "90 mph" before you hit 2nd gear.... I suspect that the bushing in the speedo head is dry and a spritz of light machine oil will set it right...that and look for the broken fiber gear... also cause by lack of lube on the driven shaft (Stop right there Maloney) go ahead and take it apart....it's broken anyway....! If you can't fix it...someone on the net must have a good spare to post out...Right folks? steve.... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:57:38 -0500 (EST) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: I failed my smog test! OK John,,,roll up the sleeves....this is where we tell the men from the boys..(sorry terriann, Jan1, Jan2 etc.) W/O going nuts here....the Idle is too rich..excess fuel....it is not due to high float level as the high rpm reading would suffer also.... set the idle speed *exactly* on the money.....then adjust the idle mixure (if it is adjutable..working from memory here folks..) until the beast starts to stumble *Slooooly* adust it out untill the rpm is the highest and readjust the speed.....If it doesent have an adjustment on the out side, you will have to drop the needle lower in in the jet...there are seveal different ways to do this...some carbs you turn the jet holder in (thats the adjustment on the bottom center of the carb)..on others one has to adjust the the needle position in the slide (gotta take the silly thing to bits) This may be a good time to get a new jet and needle and install them.....follow the centering directions in the book.... You are not far off really...the idle speed thing alone may cure it.... Oh....BTW...gut the air cleaner....or at least put fresh oil in it...it will effect the readings..(only at the higher speeds, normally, but this is a rover and ain't nutin' normal..) DON"T FORGET THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT! I know the exhausts are a pain.....but 50 bucks is 50 bucks and they need it anyway! steve....... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 10:51:07 -0500 From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk> Subject: I have done it. Dear Friends, Until today I was the owner of a perfectly good truck and a motorcycle. So there was no reason for me to do what I have done. Today I traded a big pile of hard-earned cash for a 1960 SWB Land-Rover. I am still in shock, but I shall recover soon. It is quite a handful to drive. I shall recover from that too I suppose. It takes 20 pounds worth of petrol (maybe more, I ran out of money). It's loud. It's cold. It's ugly. It is slow. Synchromesh? What's that? But it is mine. I am sure that I will have many questions for you in the near future. hopefully I will soon be able to add some answers of my own. Thanks to all who have given me advice over the last few months of my search. Now all I have to do is get it from Bracknell (UK) to Northern California. Cheers from a new Land-Rover Owner. Jimmy Patrick -- CKS|Partners 0344-382114 Advertising & Marketing Communications fax 0344-303192 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 09:16:24 -0800 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess) Subject: gifs Happy holidays! The gifs came through perfectly. Glad to see that the last one has the oil leak exactly where mine is, makes me feel normal. Good job, thanks, John Hess, PhD Phone me 916 752 8420 Dept of Human Anatomy FAX me 916 752 8520 University of Calif Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu Davis, CA or leave me alone, your choice. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 12:12:49 -0600 (CST) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Rovers I have found that the putty strips used for installing the windows in RVs is the best material to use. It comes attached to paper and is in a roll. You simply roll out the amount you need to cover the four sides and then take the paper off as you apply it. Put down the floor and then cut off the excess material that will ooze out the side. It will not completly harden so it can be removed later when you need to take up the floor and it is water proof. A type of material I have used between the box and the top is cell foam used to attach camper tops. It too has a clear plastic backing and the other side is a non sticky clear plastic skin. When you stick the material down withe the sticky side, the other side lets you remove the camper topp over and over but it is still water and dust tight. It is by far the best. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 13:20:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Rovers Kelly... > 1. I'm completely restoring my vehicle. When I put my seat box and floor > pans in, what is the best sealant to use? Silicone sealant is a pain if > you ever have to take the box back out (clutch work?). Ideas? I've used silicone... yup.. it's a pain but it does peel off.. There are lots of differant type of caulking available in squeeze tubes and guns. There is also some type of flat caulking which comes in a roll with a wax-type of release paper. I seem to remember someone talking about that. > 4. Oil Filter adapter for the 2.25L. I bought mine from a guy in Canada > for > $35 postage paid. The address is at work. Write me if you need it. I'm interested.. Could you send me the address please. Hey.. you must know Ben Smith... (bens@archimedes.chinalake.navy.mil). Haven't heard from him in a while. If you see him, say Howdy! Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 12:22:32 PST Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest noticed some queries about def90 quality and reliability. The same little things that niggle and wiggle on our series cars still tend to niggle and wiggle on the 90. BUT, beneath the wiggles jiggles and niggles beats the heart of a lion... I've been driving one for almost 6 months. it is tight, rattle-free and has such a huge performance envelope (on-road) over not only the series (still love mine!) cars, but over the wrangler (sic) and hummer but also retains the legendary off-road performance of the series cars albeit with a very long and compliant suspension.. The motor is bulletproof. The tranny is 3/4 tonne. I've been driving the hardtop (glass fibre model) for a week now, and yes the interior noise has been reduced to the point that you can hear the stereo, the heat stays in scads better, and you can see much better through nice, clear glass! Outstanding, especially in the snowbelts. As with our series cars, PM is key, and loyal owners will automatically do this, won't they? The chassis is stronger that the older cars, has drain holes, and is wax-injected. The roll cage really does make for a stouter vehicle, safety aside. I read a remark on the `net the other night from someone who got semantic (no flame) about what constitutes chassis stiffening - i.e. - compression, tension, etc. Agree. But, with the six point cage tying into the chassis rails and transversely tied in with the tube behind the seats, the is arguably making for one strong truck. It tracks beautifully, too. I love this defender 90 and will not rest until I own one. Pricing issues vs. volume. Again, this is a 2-door TRUCK in the eyes of the DOT. Hence, a 25% import duty! Doesn't go into anybody's pocket except uncle sam's. No luxury or gas tax because all the LR range exceeds the 6000# gvwr and is exempt from gas tax for same reason - they are considered trucks (good news). There is lotsa life left in the 90. The limited aluminum hardtop I finally got to see the other day - its gorgeous in conniston. It really looks like a series car except for the nose. Headliner a little chintzy, but that really isn't the point, is it? On this car? Love `em. Don't forget, most of us bought our first series cars when they had had at least one or two previous owners - this allowed us to reach into them to begin with. The 90's will go through the same cycle. We'll all eventually be able to afford one if we want. regards Jim roverheadus extremis outofcontrolliatas jpappa01@interserv.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: UncleBrad@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 15:27:13 -0500 Subject: import 110s to US? I got a call yesterday morning from mike Smith of Maine. He owns a company called East Coast Rover Co. Mike's phone number is 207-236-8169. He told me that HE got a call from a fellow who claims to have something like 400 1991 & 1992 110s & 90s pre-approved by DOT (the Department of Transportation in the U.S.) and the EPA (the Environmental Protection Agency). In fact, the guy says, they are already here on U.S. soil. He wants to sell them for aroud the $10,000 _ $15,000 range but will only sell them in lots of 10 vehicles, so Mike thought that there might be a few people out there who would want to go together with him to buy one of these lots. I must say that this sounds pretty fishy to me. NO ONE has been able to bring in 90s or 110s to date, legally. Not only that but the vehicles are, supposedly, diesels. They would be tougher, yet. Mike is planning to do some research to see whether this guy is telling the truth but even if he gave it a clean bill of health, I'd want to make my own investigation before spending my money. And I'd make it a very thorough investigation, too. This is the stuff scams are made of. Myles Murphy, also of Maine, called up last night. He had received a call from our mystery man too. Myles is convinced that it's a scam. Of course, if this is not a scam, There are a whole bunch of legal late model Land Rovers out there at great prices. If you hear anything more about this, could you let me know? I'll do the same. Brad Blevins, 510-687-1188 ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: The Zenith of Carbs? Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 16:03:04 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <2EEF8277@msm1.WellsFargo.COM>you wrote: > and ..>>Living out here in California, the EPA people seem to want me to > have all [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > pot and solenoid fuel cut-off). Mine even had an EGR valve which I thought > was only on the Austrailian market!<< I was down at British Pacific today discussing this very problem. the Zenith Carb that went on the SIIIs, is no longer made or supported. There existsa similar Zenith, which does not have the fuel cut off solinoid. Legally, you have origional equipment (I.e. with the fuel cutoff solinoid). So what British Pacific offered to do for me was to help get a waver from California since the origional equipment no longer exists. First I'm going to try to fast talk the local mechanics to passing my LR with the Webber. but if that fails... -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications Internation Corporation China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 17 Dec 94 19:30:05 EST From: "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" <100042.254@compuserve.com> Subject: Non genuine weatherstripping John Hess wrote last wednesday asking about weatherstripping: The non-genuine will work and is much easier to work with then the ol' rivet job. Half the fun is getting the old stuff off and then the old metal as well. The best solution I have found is to use Defender (or similar) weatherstripping. There is a small lip at the edge of the door frame that will need to be straightened in order to get a good fit. The weatherstripping on the defender is one complete piece without a metal insert. Once the lip on the door frame is straightened you just simply slide the one piece rubber strip on - no glue needed to keep it in place. 1) |_ -> | straighten lip out on door frame (^lip ^-straightened door frame) 2) | <-------straightened door frame V <-------weather stripping now slides easily over entire frame A lot of vehicles use this type of weatherstripping - Ford transit vans, etc - and this would be much cheaper than buying LR. This is one of the very few things I would say is better to go non-original(rivet strips being original) on. It takes 5 minutes to install, when it rots it takes 5 min to replace and is a lot cheaper! ___________________________________________________________________ Any Interest for a Martin Walters Dormobile? Cheers, Leslie Stutsman____________________________________________ UK Land Rover Import/Export 1959 88" Van side Fax/Ph (01144) 51 707 2075 1956 86" Soft top trialler 1965 88" currently for sale in Florida Too many others to list ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 17:00:38 PST From: sohearn@InterServ.Com (Stephen OHearn) Subject: Zippo / GIF's / Christmas (what a combo!) Bummer on the Zippo :( The last digest has got to be a record. Any chance of these GIF's being placed on one of the Web servers? Even better, would someone with a scanner be interested in receiving photos from everyone on the list showing themselves and/or their LR? Then these images could be put on a Web server or ftp site. I know this is asking a lot but it would be kind of cool. It's an idea anyway. One week 'til Christmas, what have people out there gotten their LR for the holidays? Not to worry, I'm sure all Rovers (with the possible exception of the new Range Rover) are computer and net challenged <g> so the surprises are safe. - Stephen +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Stephen O'Hearn 1994 LAND- Tread Lightly | | El Segundo, CA, USA DEFENDER -ROVER on Public and | | sohearn@interserv.com 90 The Best 4x4xFar Private Lands | +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 20:07:08 -0600 (CST) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Non genuine weatherstripping Don't bend that lip! I am using a weatherstrip which goes on without rivets and it comes with a glue material which sticks like a weld job. It is hammered on with a rubber mallet and it catches the lip so if you take it off you are screwed! I will try to get a name and type for the list during my Christmas holiday. I replaced my door seals with a type of seal which uses pop rivets and it also works like a charm. I would not like to do any cutting when there are lots of products which do the job real well and don't lessen the value of the old beasts. For those trying to get the old stuff off, it only takes minutes if you are lucky enough to have air tools. Get a chisel the width of the channel and make sure it is the one with the "V" groove in it. Get the chisel under the metal and the rubber and cut off the rivet with the chisel. Hold it at a very shallow angle so that you don't did into the aluminium. It works great and it took me about two or three minutes per door using this method. Dave VE4PN 17 Dec 1994, LESLIE C. STUTSMAN wrote: > John Hess wrote last wednesday asking about weatherstripping: > The non-genuine will work and is much easier to work with then the ol' rivet [ truncated by lro-digester (was 42 lines)] > Florida > Too many others to list ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov> Subject: Re: I have done it. Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 18:07:47 -0800 (PST) Hi Jimmy, Congratulations. You are now a certifiably insane Land Rover Owner (I know, it's redundant). I haven't gotten down to the DMV to have them confirm my list of rules on importing vehicles into California, but a 1960 should be a piece of cake. As soon as the work load lets up a little bit, I'll get there. Should be sometime in late 1996. When do you plan to return to California? How will you be shipping this beast back? Roll-on/roll-off to the East Coast? Container to California? Ferry across the Bering Strait, and dog sledge from Nome? If you are going to go the container route, I expect that there are a lot of people who would like to help you stuff it with parts (and share the cost, of course). BTW, just how big was the pile of hard-earned cash you exchanged for your new pride and joy. We are always interested in comparisons. Just academic curiosity, of course <8->) > Dear Friends, > Until today I was the owner of a perfectly good truck and a motorcycle. So [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)] > CKS|Partners 0344-382114 > Advertising & Marketing Communications fax 0344-303192 ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 18:17:08 -0800 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: License plates For those of you interested in the mundane, I went to DMV to sign the dormobile up in ca. I failed smog, but they are happy to take your money and wait for all the forms to show up later. I need an official letter from ME DMV in reponse to the CA DMV request for title. I send the ca form to maine, then they send it back with their own form saying we don't title cars that old. Then CA says OK, if Maine won't give a title, we'll make own up ourselves. The california legislature can't be bothered to really take action on things that might make the state better, but they have a bunch of pretty license plates one can sign up for! One has a pic. of Yosemite, one has a desert scene, one is a picture by a guy I know (Wayne Thiebaud). All the special plates generate money for special things; However, before the state makes new plates, they want 5000 orders in advance, so I don't know what is available. Also, if you want a special witty plate, you first check a book to see if its taken except that the book is from 1991 and there is the chance that a taken plate could now be available! So they have to check for you, except that you can only list 2 choices. DORMOBL is taken. So is BEAST. My wife likes L BEAST (sort or spanish, L for el) I like R BEAST (rover or roving or our) Would ya'll (musta picked that up in Texas) like to offer suggestions? The winner can pay for the special plates for me! 8^) On regular plates, you get 7 letters, on picture plates, you get 6 plus one small space between words if you want. Thanks, john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and good ol reliable Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 94 21:20:20 LCL From: Joseph Broach <PC7170@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU> Subject: LR's for sale (TN) A friend without access wanted me to post the following Rover's 4sale: They are located about 60 miles south of Knoxville (TN) in Athens, TN ** '66 109 5-dr Safari Wagon......Frame-off restoration, rebuilt engine & transmission, haven't seen this one but supposedly beautiful condition $16,500 B.O. ** '71 88 IIa's......Both are mechanically sound, one good body, the other a rough body but good frame $5,000 B.O. for the pair. For inquries please call Jackie Bookout at (615)-263-2784 ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 1994 23:05:07 -0500 (EST) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: Rovers That canadian oil adapter is for the birds (IMHO)...It is nearly impossible to install...Hint...grind flats on both washers as the casting is crude enough that the bolts will not start straight with the full diameter washers in place...It took me over an hour to install on a 109.....to give you an idea..it then only took me 2 hrs to pull the engine on an 88..... make sure you install the adapter right side up..the directions are not clear on this point..... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 1994 00:07:41 -0500 (EST) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: LR On Tue, 13 Dec 1994, Kelly Minnick wrote: > 2. Why would the windshield height be any different on the 90 vs the sIII? > If the doors are the same, wouldn't the shields have to be at the same > height? Maybe I haven't spent enough time at the dealers. By the way, > where do you guys get the money for these US spec 90's? At $33K, I say ouch! none The glass area stops well short of the mating edge of the roof and the wind screen frame on the series cars... the 90/110 screen has the glass extending to within 1 inch of the joint *and* the mating edge is actully up in the roof, not on the edge...picture both roofs flat on the ground w/o the side panels..the series roof would touch the ground all the way around except where the rear door/hatch opening is...the 90/110 touches on the sides but the front edge is like a larger rear door opening.... W/O a large amount of fooling around, it is impossible to fit a 90 top to a series 3 and like that... the 110 to 109 can be done and all the parts (screen and roof)are piled on the 107 sw waiting for warmer weather/more time.... All the above relates to *full* hard tops.. the 90 cab roof and screen could be fitted, of course...... steve.... (good lord, *look* at the time!) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST World Wide Web Sites: http://whitman.gar.utexas.edu/roverweb/roverweb.html http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/ If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@chunnel.uk.stratus.com -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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