Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions

msgSender linesSubject
1 "Michael H. Ramage" [RAM12109 Sw
2 venters@atm.ox.ac.uk (Pe23Series One upper tailgates
3 Paul Sinasohn [sinasohn@23Re: Rita, Rita, (Kilo)Metre Maid -FOUND!!!!
4 James B Russell [jrussel20LPS
5 mtalbot@interserv.com 36Re: Hybrids
6 David John Place [umplac17Re: Series II or III frame dimension for snow plow
7 David John Place [umplac20Re: Waxoyl equivalents?
8 David John Place [umplac22Re: 2nd Gear pops out
9 David John Place [umplac34Re: equipment / chains
10 David John Place [umplac27Re: A few thoughts on Winches


------------------------------ [ Message 1 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 03 Dec 1994 07:39:13 -0600 (CST)
From: "Michael H. Ramage" <RAMAGEM@carleton.edu>
Subject: 109 Sw

I have a 109 station wagon for sale, 1967 with chevy six.  The frame is
solid but rusty, lots of neww mechanicals etc.  E-mail me directly
with an offer (all offers considered) or request for more info

Ramagem@carleton.edu

Michael Ramage

------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 14:54:07 GMT
From: venters@atm.ox.ac.uk (Peter Venters - Tel. [+44] (0)1865 272920)
Subject: Series One upper tailgates

On Thu, 1 Dec 1994 20:04:56 jpappa01@interserv.com 
wrote, re: DEFENDER 90 UPDATES:

...
And in equally exciting news... the (gasp!) ALUMINUM HARDTOP DEFENDER 90 is 
now in the port and being shipped to dealers... PRICE? N/A. BODY COLOR SIDES, 
ALPINE WHITE TOP SECTION. GET THIS -- SERIES ONE (ONE!!) UPPER TAILGATE LID!! 
YES! LR HAD TO DIG UP THE TOOLING FROM SOME PRIVATE CITIZEN IN UK WHO 
PURCHASED SAME A JILLION YEARS AGO! WOW! I LOVE IT... 
...

Does anybody know about production of Series One upper tailgates - are they
really making them again - and if so are they available in the UK for anything
less than the price of a night at the Ritz?

Peter

PS My Series One doesn't have any armrests.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 08:40:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Paul Sinasohn <sinasohn@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rita, Rita, (Kilo)Metre Maid -FOUND!!!!

She's been located, staying with her friend Amy in New York. She forgot 
to call us, she was having too much fun. She will be continually reminded 
that her family and friends were worried, until she agrees not to forget 
again. This may take several years. 

Thank you all for your concern and assistance.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paul Sinasohn         sinasohn@netcom.com                            CAL '80
Bass and Business Mgr - Richter Scale, the No-Fault Acappella group
Motto: There's a fine line between a groove and a rut!! Where are YOU?!

On Thu, 1 Dec 1994, Roger Sinasohn wrote:

> A favor to ask...  If anyone see's a college girl in a white subaru wagon 
> with straps holding down the bonnet and a ton of stuff, (hopefully) headed 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
> San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 09:48:54 -0800 (PST)
From: James B Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: LPS

I have used LPS-3 for years and like it.  I know a lot of seaplane owners 
use it -- particularly those who splash down in salt water from time to 
time such as in Puget Sound.  Don't know how it compairs with Waxoyl though.

One thing, be sure to get the LPS-3.  They also make LPS-1, a very light 
weight stuff, LPS-2, kind of like WD40, and then LPS-3.

I also like their Instant Cold Galvanize, basically a zinc rich primer,
but be sure to shake it very, very well and then shake it some more since
it can clog up quite easily.  And not just the nozzle, the tube inside the
can gets blocked and you end up with a nearly full can of stuff you cant
get out.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: mtalbot@interserv.com
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 13:10:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Hybrids

All, 

A few days ago someone posted a message about Hybrids. Just wanted to share 
what I'm doing to one of my 88's 

I basically want a Defender 90, but as usual, can't seem to convince the wife 
that $30K + for one is a good idea. So, I bought another 88, 73 SIII. Good 
body frame really shot, no not the Vinalhaven rover, another one from Maine. 
My plans are as follows :

Arrow Service in the UK are building a  SIII coil sprung chassis with used 90 
axles, Range Rover diffs, Range Rover 5 speed gearbox mated to a RR V8 (Carb). 
>From this I will mount a SIII bulkhead (currently under repair by me). 

Arrow are going to supply D90 doors, D90 front end, grille, bonnet. From there 
they are going to ship to me. Total cost, $5,500. 

Once here I will mount the bulkhead, and start building up from the parts I 
have from my SIII. 

Those that want to look for D90 chassis here can forget it, they don't exist. 
I did read that the east coast rover co were advertising coil sprung chassis 
for $6,000 !!!  

Total cost for me to get this chassis with engine and box, and fit parts from 
my SIII. Approx $6,500. I think that is a great bargin and certainly is 
cheaper then a new D90 !!! Hey, I could get four of them at those prices. 

Mark 
   

------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 18:22:43 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Series II or III frame dimension for snow plow

I have had 3 snow plows on my 88 type LRs and I found that if you didn't 
use the undercarriage part, the plow was too close to the vehicle and you 
couldn't articulate it left and right.  If you use a simple A shaped part 
from the undercarriage to the plow I found you could attach it to the 
springs themselves with a 1/2 inch thick steel block with two short 
extensions into which you put a large agricultural "D" ring pin.  This 
made a nice quick disconnect arrangement.  I have used hydraulic lifting 
and angle slaves on mine, but the last one worked well using the winch 
with a short "A" frame over the bumper to give a bit o height for the 
lift.  I just looked in the Haynes manual page 164.  It lists the 
distance from the outside of the frame to the opposite outside as 787 mm 
or 31.0 inches. I hope that is of some use to you. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 18:47:39 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Waxoyl equivalents?

I have been using LPS for many years now.  It has a very interesting 
ability to climb up inside the doors of old vehicles.  You spray it into 
the doors like rustproofing and a few days later it will appear up near 
the top.  I like it because it is only about $25.00 per gallon in Canada, 
and it replaces WD40 in my shop at a much lower cost.  I buy it from 
machine shop supply houses up here in Manitoba.  It comes in a Blue 
plastic jug. The jug says general purpose lub, penetrating, water 
replacing.  It protects up to 1 year.  It is made by Holt Lloyd Corp of 
Tucker Georgia 30084.  It was worth reading the label.  In 15 years, I 
never noticed you were to shake well before applying.  I guess the bottom 
half of the product I have out there is going to do a real great job!  
For the most part it is WD40 and is used exactly the same way.  If you 
figure out the cost of the spray tins vs the gallon of LPS, you will 
always buy LPS as I do and use a hairspray bottle to apply it to nusts 
and bolts etc.  I hope this helps.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 20:11:11 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: 2nd Gear pops out

I have had the same problem with my 2nd gear and I solved it for the most 
part by making the detent spring which presses against the detent ball 
longer.  These balls are the ones which are on the top, the left and the 
right of the gearbox case and have an "L" shaped piece of black metal 
over them with a rubber washer between the spring and the metal.  They 
just push a ball bearing into a detent mark on the shift shafts that you 
move when you shift gears.  If the spring gets weak, the shafts move 
without resistance and the shifter pops out of gear.  If you look at page 
86 of the Haynes manual and picture 10.8a you will see the detent ball 
and spring.  Figure 10.8b and 10.9 show the other two balls.  Make sure 
you set the second gear stop bolt shown in 10.11 as well or your will not 
be fully engaged in gear and it can pop out of gear when you remove the 
load.  I only have problems now when I shift.  The gearshif sort of pops 
back into my hand when I shift from 1st to second but it never comes out 
of gear when I decelerate as it used to.  Remember you can make the 
spring so tight you have to pull the shifter out of gear so this should 
solve your problem for no outlay of $.  Hope this helps.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 20:26:33 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: equipment / chains

The best set of chains I ever used were a type that had triangle shaped 
pieces of metal that were placed permanently inside the bead of the tire 
just before inflation.  the chains themselves had an attachment which 
allowed you to put the chains across the face of the tire from bead to 
bead when needed and then removed when the surface improved.  The metal 
hook for want of a better term didn't seem to change the tire on the 
highway etc.  I don't know if you can still get them.  I let most of them 
go with my last Rover and now I use the full wheel type.  By the way, I 
saw a neat trick for putting the chains on which I will try this winter.  
You get a piece of cloths hanger wire and bend it so you have a "U" 
shaped piece of wire with a sharp point which can grab both sides of the 
tread.  You attach the chains to this hook and lay them out in front of 
the wheel you which to put the chain on.  You drive forward, and the hook 
pulls the chain around the tire as you drive.  when you have completed 
one revolution of the wheel the chains are all the way around and ready 
to be clipped together.  You then put "bungee" cords across the chains to 
keep them tight on the tire and the job is done.  We haven't had enough 
snow yet to try it but I will let you know if they work as well for me as 
the fellow I saw using them.  One other neat trick I saw being used by 
some commercial fishermen on Lake Winnipeg was to mount disker blades 
just in front of the front wheels attached to the bumpers of the Land 
Rover.  The hung down to about mid tire height and were offset to the 
outside.  When the fellows drove out on the lake to lift their nets, the 
disc would throw the snow out of the way and they didn't need chains or 
other help to go in very deep snow.  Normally the snow is so bad that 
Bombardiers, a tracked vehicle with front skies is used.  The fellow I 
knew, actually a woman, used an 88 Land Rover with a truck cap for this 
work and it never failed.  You might try this with removable wheel discs 
and see what it will do for you.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sat, 3 Dec 1994 21:30:32 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: A few thoughts on Winches

That part about the boy being killed by the winch cable makes me want to 
remind people that if nothing else put your jacket on the cable so that 
if it breaks it acts like a break in the wind and will slow down the 
cable.  I now use an extension cable on my electric winch and I sit 
inside when I have a real winch job to do.  I also use stainless cable 
only.  I know it costs, but it doesn't rust out and get brittle like 
steel cable out in the elements does.  For the fellow trying to decide on 
a winch, I have all kinds and I still prefer the PTO type because you can 
shift the gearbox and change speeds.  It also is a true reverse system 
with variable speeds.  I used one to put up ham radio towers, and it was 
great.  The old style Warn was quite good and now I am using a military 
aircraft starting motor with relays to give in and out.  It is cheap and 
has great pulling power.  I think I will send a picture of my 88 to Al 
Workhorse and people can see the type it is.  I had a good look at the 
new Defender on Friday and I noticed it has an American type receiver 
socket on the rear.  Why dont you put the same type of socket on the 
front under the bumper and use one winch to pull from rear or front?  I 
find I most often want to get back to hard ground not pull myself further 
into trouble and a rear winch is better for this.  A "Jackall" the name 
we use in Canada for the high jack fited with a square receiver which 
will fit into that hole will make jacking a lot safer.  The vehicle won't 
wobble on the jack with it in the square hole.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

World Wide Web Sites:
        http://whitman.gar.utexas.edu/roverweb/roverweb.html
        http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@chunnel.uk.stratus.com
-B
[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941204 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]


Back Forward

Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.