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From: YvesF@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 06:25:51 -0500
Subject: LR Hams out there?

A couple years back I chatted on 20 meters with a chap right near Solihull
who had worked for LR, and who had several beasties he worked on and did neat
stuff to, at home. Unfortunately I misplaced the QSO information and can't
remember the fellow's call.

Anybody in the UK who might also be into amateur radio have any clue who this
might be, and also is there anyone out there (in UK or elsewhere on this - or
other - planets) who combine ham radio and LR stuff? Would love to make a
sked if anyone responds.

Who knows, perhaps we could have a LR net on 40 or 20 or whatever? My call is
W1EOX and can work any mode or freq (legally, preferably).  Must be some VK,
ZL or G hams in addition to us W's
out there with LR's!!

I've got a 1963 109 2 door, civilian, with hard and military soft top, a
"restoration" (what a fauncy word that is) started about 3 years ago.... it's
also a rolling antenna farm and test bed for the low bands and VHF. The main
truck receiver is a surplus "Angry 5" which does a bangup job on AM/CW and
even SSB.

If anyone out there is operating a Range Rover with a brand new TS50 or Yaesu
FT900 ensconced deep in the leather upholstery, I suppose they could sign in
too..., although we might have to dust and vacuum first... :)

73 and all that rot,
Yves 

PS: Who else out there also uses LR's to lug harpsichords around to gigs?

Yves Albert Feder W1EOX
AM/FM/TVI/CW/SSB/RTTY/Packet/TCP.IP
YvesF@aol.com 
or
Yves1@delphi.com

------------------------------

Date:         Sun, 30 Oct 94 13:13:08 LCL
From: Joseph Broach <PC7170@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      Bosch Platinums

     I seem to recall some time back a thread on Splitfire plugs in which
was mentioned that Bosch Platinums could cause damage to the LR engine. Is
this at all true? I am asking because I need to replace the plugs in my
ser IIa and have new Platinums I'd like to use. Thanks!!

                              Rgds,
                              Joseph Broach.......'67 Ser IIa 88   "Sidney"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 13:26:45 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rebuild of Dual Master Cylinder

You may be right about the fluid being wrong.  I put DOT in it when I was
rebuilding it and quickly realized what I had done.  I had the unit on the
bench at the time, so I cleaned up the parts and put it back together.  I
had a hunch that the rubber seals may have swelled up even in the ten
minutes or so it held the wrong fluid.  I think the valve is OK but it is
very hard to get the return spring to push out the plunger.  I suppose one
could say I have lots of hydraulic pressure seal there, but I didn't want
to mount it and then find out it wouldn't work.  The old American Motors
unit I have been using really does a reasonable job, but I would like to
get back to the Land Rover unit because the power brake vacuum line hits
the reservoir lid, and this makes it hard to open and close when I service
the unit.  If you know the American replacement seal number, that would
be a help because Girling wants about $17.00 for the seal which is worth
about $1.00.  Thanks Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 14:23:51 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Hi all and a bumper Question

I anyone saw the series on the husband and wife team that flies ultra
lights on the "Skeleton Coast" of Africa on The Learning Channel this
weekend, you will see that they have a water system installed in their
Land Rover.  It seems to come out of the panel on the rear right hand
side, and in the shot, it seems to be hot water to boot.  By the way for
those of you who missed this particular series, it showed a nice 109 doing
its thing as a support vehicle for the two ultra light aircraft that a
husband and wife team of photographers use in Africa.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 14:52:01 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: LR Hams out there?

Well I am a ham radio nut.  I use an 88 Ser IIA for Red Cross work.  I
have an air operated 40 foot mast that goes on the vehicle and Hustler
antenna system.  It carries 2 meter and TS520 HF system.  It is set up
with jump seats for a radio crew.  It has been used with safari top and
tent for emergency.  Just returned from teaching a course at the Federal
college for emergency preparedness in Ontario.  I operated in Hurricane
Iniki on Hawaii for American Red Cross and last year in Russia and Finland
for International Red Cross.  Did communications in Hawaii and medical
supplies in Russia.  Met losts of hams and saw some Land Rovers.  I tried
to work Dale KC7MM from the net here while in Arnprior but band was bad. 
He wants to get a group together and talk Land Rovers as well.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "Jurgen Klus" <PSJK@psy1.ssn.flinders.edu.au>
Date:          Mon, 31 Oct 1994 08:18:32 GMT-0930
Subject:       Water storage

The bumper bar is definitely NOT the place to put water. I agree with 
other comments, which is what we do, that is, use 20 litre food grade 
polyethylene containers with a thread near the base for a tap. In 
that way, your water will be spread over several containers.

Alternately, if you are taking a roof rack, why not get some 90mm PVC 
storm water pipe, and hang one off each side of your roof rack. You 
just put a T-piece with a thread at the top for the filler and a tap 
at one end. Not much chance of stone or tree damage up their. Mind 
you, it is prudent to take a container in you LR as well, just in 
case!

As a third alternative (and I know someone who has done this to their 
Discovery), have two boxs' constructed out of colourbond 
(powder coated) steel, and set them under the LR between the chassis 
rail and the doors. Gives a lower centre of gravity and the water 
container is out of harms way. Or install the steel box along the 
back floor (I've seen that in a RR). Remember though: Baffle the box 
well to stop the water sloshing about!

out of harms way
Jurgen Klus  Tel 618 201 2413    Fax 618 201 3877
When the going gets tough..the tough get Land Rover!

------------------------------

From: "Jurgen Klus" <PSJK@psy1.ssn.flinders.edu.au>
Date:          Mon, 31 Oct 1994 08:27:14 GMT-0930
Subject:       Discovery Reversing Lights

Too much wattage in the light assembly may damage the silvering in the 
reflector!

Try using an ancilliary light with a very broad pattern. Attach it 
under the  bumper bar, and throw its relay (you were of course 
intending to give the "new"light its own relay, weren't you?) using 
the existing power to the standard reversing lights. That is, it 
would be best not to run the new light straight off the exisiting 
lights wiring. Give it its own fuse as well, there are plenty of 
spare slots in the Discovery fuse box, or give an inline fuse, or use 
the cigarette lighter fuse or something like that. (Or you can always 
be brave and use the fuse for the fuel pump....just kidding!)

Jurgen Klus  Tel 618 201 2413    Fax 618 201 3877
When the going gets tough..the tough get Land Rover!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 17:14:10 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: LRO heater tests

For those of you who mentioned in the past month that you wondered if your
heaters were working, I conducted some tests.  On my freshly rebuilt engine
with clean water jacket and a flushed heater rad core, I recorded the air
temperature at 144 degrees F. after 1/2 hour driving at 50 MPH.  The test
was made after stopping the vehicle and the thermometer was placed in the
air prenum.  I used three thermometers and all were within the 144 to 148
degree range.  The engine gauge was reading in the normal range, and the
engine was at a fast idle.  The outside temperature was 34.5 degrees taken
with a Radio Shack electric thermometer.  My vehicle has a roof liner and
stick on noise dampening panels on the inside doors, a rubber 1/2 " dock
rubber mat on the back floor and carpet over the seat box and on the front
floor.  I was able to maintain 74.1 F. in the front of the vehicle at the
seat cushion level.  I have good door rubber.  I hope this is of use to
some of you.  I hope to try some transmission and transfer case temps and
when it finally gets cold, I will let you know what the inside temps get
to at around -40 F outside temp.  Maybe I don't want to know.  I am a
psychologist, and I know that self fulfilling prophecy can make me feel
cold if I think it is cold :-).  Maybe I should use a broken thermometer.
:-) Dave VE4PN  (Word should be plenum-can't seem to edit this after I
type it)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Oct 1994 09:25:43 +1000
From: rwalker@dolphin.fen.qut.edu.au (Rodney Walker)
Subject: Series I Restoration

A few weeks back I purchased a running 1955 '86 Series I. Now my intention
was to just use the vehicle, but as with most things I do, I find it
difficult to resist the urge to pull the thing apart and do it up 
properly. 

So, at the present state it is in a few large piles in my garage. My 
question is, how do I clean off the old green paint from the alloy body,
and what do I repaint it with. Does the alloy require a special surface
prep.? What type of paint do I use? What is the factory stovaic (???? sp?)
enameled paint job ?

My rear body has a few extra drill holes in it. Can the alloy body be 
welded with oxy/mig ?

What can I do about the chipped galvanising on my body corners, short 
of ripping out the rivets and having them re-coated.

This should de me for a while.

Rod

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rodney A. Walker                                  44 Ford GPW
Space Centre for Satellite Navigation		  44 Willys MB
Queensland University of Technology               88 Cherokee
George St, Brisbane                               90 Wrangler
4000, Queensland, Australia                       85 CJ7, 85 J10
voice +61-7-8705187                               44 GPA, 44 Dodge Truck
fax   +61-7-8641517                               79 Cherokee Cheif
                                                  55 Series 1 Land Rover
------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 17:58:46 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Series I Restoration

I have found that paint stripper works well on this paint.  You can get
the real automotive type or use the Circa 1850 stuff that you can get at
the corner store.  The nice thing about it is it doesn't need neutralizing
after you sue it.  Once you have a clean surface, you need to etch the
aluminum or the new paint won't stick.  On an aluminum canoe I used some
Navel Jelly but I hear even vinegar will work if you are going on the
cheap.  If you can afford the real thing, get the right stuff from an
automotive paint store and make sure you tell them it is for aluminum or
they will give you prep wash for steel and you will be in trouble.  You
need a primer for aluminum as well or it won't stick.  After that you can
use what you want.  Some fellows just brush paint their vehicles, but I
think if you go to all the trouble of primer and etching etc, you will
want to spray it even if only from a spray bomb can.  There is little you
can do with the galvanized trim.  Steel wool it first to see if that
cleans it up and if not, well you can always paint it aluminum, not a very
nice looking color however, or you can find a contrasting colour and do
that to it.  In most cases it just adds to the general tough look to let
it be, and it doesn't need any further work if you just leave it. You
might want to camouflage it.  This allows you to use flat paint and it
hides all the problems better than a fine finish would.  One consulation
about Rovers is, all the rivets help break the surfaces up so even a poor
paint job doesn't look all that bad.  Try a home job on a Jag and see how
long you will leave it on. :-)  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: mtalbot@interserv.com
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 17:23:22 -0800

All, 

Can anyone in the states suggest a good quality rush paint for painting my ^M
SIII frame ??

Rgds Mark 

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Ranger Rover brake repair.
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 94 16:59:11 PST

Well, the shadetree mechanic does it again....
I got up this morning to a pager going off, and a return call to
find out that my fixed EPROM were at the airport.
So this being Sunday and a beautiful fall day, I decided to 
take the R-Rover. So I got in with my coffee, turned the key, started
the engine, and then realized that the pump for the brakes was
not shutting off. After about 15 minutes of continuous running I
realized there was a serious problem. After taking the other low-life
truck to the Airport and completing my testing, I decided to fix
the Rover. Since the pump was making a weird noise, and the manual
stated that this was non-serviceable I decided to start there. After all
there are only three Allen screws holding the pump motor to the 
housing so that looked like a good place to start. So I removed the 
three screws and proceeded to remove the motor. My thinking was 
the motor was separate from the pumping mechanism.  I was
wrong. Out poured pints of brake fluid on the new garage floor.
Well since I had gone this far I might as well keep going (I use the
same philosophy with mud, and snow). Inside was a round metal
object in a bearing race. It seemed to turn, and was loose so I
pulled it out. If you have ever taking apart the freewheel of a 
ten-speed bicycle you will know the feeling of multiple small parts
falling every where. It turns out this circular item was actually
eucalyptical, and there were about 6 small dowels that ride on the 
bearing race and pump brake fluid. After locating all the little dowels
I reassembled the pump and turned my attention to all the 
bleeding screws. I have a severe distrust of bleeding screws, one
they always break, or strip, and if I can loosen them I rarely get
any improvement in braking performance. But since I really hate
to pay those Audi/Porches/Range-Rover rates at the dealer-ship
I began the bleeding process. The First screw in on the pump
housing. this is gravity feed. This I can handle, just keep the reservoir
full, and bleed until all those bubbles leave. After bleeding the
pump I still had the original problem. So I moved on the next
valve. This one is on some nitrogen charged accumulator. After
reading the manual I came to realize that this is no more that a
bladder holding tank any newer house with a well comes equipped
with. I turned on the ignition and loosed the valve. After watching this squirt a couple of more pints on my new floor, I realized that the 
pump was now shutting off after 3 or four min. After bleeding this multiple time I turned my attention to the next screws. These 
required help, as someone (my wife) was needed to press the brakes
as I loosened the screws. After a number of cycles I did get the
pump to operate normally. It now shuts off after 10 second, and does
not sound like a screaming kid any more. All that is left now is to talk my wife into cleaning the garage floor.......

Russ Burns
One of those yuppie RR owners.

------------------------------

Date: 30 Oct 94 20:53:37 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Jon's Steering Relay

Jon,

I've overhauled several steering relays. Whatever you do, be *very*
careful whan taking it apart. There's a helluve-strong 4-inch
totally compressed spring in there which, if it hits you anywhere
when coming loose, will seriously maim you.
As for your problem, the most likely causes for a seized relay are
broken or cracked up bushes, and/or a fouled relay shaft; the shaft
surface should be smooth and highly polished. If it becomes rusty,
pitted, or scratched by dirt/sand, it begins eating into the
split bushes which are kept pressed aginst the shaft surface by the
abovementioned spring with very high pressure. Another - unlikely -
cause could be that this beastly spring itself is broken, and the
shaft tilts and is seized against the top and bottom washers.
If any of this is the case and you do _not_ have the spares to fix 
it immediately, you can temporarily get it to work smoothly by
greasing shaft and bushes thickly prior to reassembly, and then
filling the relay with *grease* rather than oil.
Again, stay clear of that spring!!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 10043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 30 Oct 94 20:53:42 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re:High-wattage reverse lights

Harry Greenspun ponders:

>  I've been tempted to replace the standard reverse lights on my Disco 
> for higher wattage ones.  However, the manual has a generic warning about 
> replacing any bulb with a brighter one.  Has anyone done this? 

Not in my wildest dreams. But, I *presume* the manual is primarily worried
about the guy _behind_ you who might get blinded and won't even get to
see who's backed into him, or might fret and panic, thinking he's seeing
the headlights of someone heading towards him on the wrong side of the road.
If neither worries you, be my guest...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 30 Oct 94 20:53:31 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re:Fuel consumption (octanes)

Dixon Kenner was wondering:
 
>    The numbers in the brackets I presume are the octane levels.  Is
>    this the R+M/2 octane level?  If so, you have some pretty potent
>    stuff compared to, this particular part of, Canada.  Unleaded

The numbers in brackets are indeed octane levels. Now, I'm not very
knowledgeable in this whole octane - oil weight - refinery business,
I just burn the stuff, and usually the cheapest I can get. All I know is
that in Germany the octane level is measured according to a norm 
abbreviated ROZ, whatever that stands for. But I also gather that in
Europe, the petrol in Germany and in Italy is supposed to be the highest
quality, probably because of their exotic highly powered sports cars.
In Germany it's the turbo-charged Porsches, and in Italy you have the
top-model Maseratis and Lamborghinis which will perk if you fill them
up with anything else than pure dynamite.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob,100043.2400@compuserve.com>

------------------------------

From: YvesF@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 1994 00:37:32 -0500
Subject: LR Hams Out there?

Hi Dave, thanks for your reply! Yours only one so far... so we have
you (Dave VE4PN) Dale KC7MM and myself..... very interesting stuff you've
done there!

Any thoughts regarding possible skeds/frequencies?

73
Yves (Al) W1EOX

"Danged if I unnerstand all I know"

------------------------------

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