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Date: Sat, 8 Oct 94 12:34:09 EDT
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Electric Land Rover specs sought

>Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu>
>Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <EV%SJSUVM1.BITNET@mitvma.mit.edu>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 47 lines)]
>                    _Nine Princes In Amber_, by Roger Zelazny
>   richard childers        san francisco, california        pascal@netcom.com
>Electric Land Rover specs sought

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Subject: silicone BF
Date: Sat, 08 Oct 94 16:00:23 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

Most SCCA racers (IT sedans, etc.) I know *don't* use it. There is the
purpose-formulated AP 550 and the AP 600, which you'd have to change before
every race, though the club racers say the hot ticket is Mercedes Brake Fluid
or the Ford Heavy Duty Break Fluid - both are high boiling point and relatively
atmosphere-stable so they don't need to change the fluid just 'cause its sat
for a week. [Of course, to my knowledge, neither is compatible with natural
rubber seals as L/R owners are familiar with.] 

Those gear-head drivers I know who have tried it have not liked it, 'cause the
silicone, (new or used) is slightly more compressible, and to them it gives
an unacceptable 'spongy' feel.  On the other hand a mechanic friend of mine
recommends and regularly installs silicone in his customer's cars for the
low-maintenance qualities - and since it doesn't absorb water, things won't
rust from the inside out.

	I always used the Ford stuff in the 'stang and the XR4, the 'stang
was done done just before BMW driver's schools (usually once in the spring,
and once in the fall.  Before going to higher spec fluid I would have liked
to have milled the face of the rotor (a concentric circle or crossed lines
in the surface of the rotor will provide the surface of the brake pads gets
fresh air twice+ times per revolution).  When you get down to it, most of
the time improvements in braking will come from keeping the brake materials
cool (hence milled -> vented -> cross drilled rotors, with ducting and
vaned wheels that suck the air out). YP(ad)W(ear)MV

I used Castrol LMA in everything else.  Somewhere early on I learned
what colour brake fluid was supposed to be, and recall reading that it ought
to be flushed at not more than 2-year intervals. 

How hydro-scopic the LMA was didn't matter on my decade-old '78 honda
wagon, 'cause most of the brake parts were rusting from the outside-in, so
that inevitably got updated yearly, if not more often :~&  Amazingly enough
what's in the resivoir of my IIa is still clear and doesn't appear contaminated
after a couple years (low mileage though it may be).  As for this RR, where did
I put the mity-vac ?

Of course, if you haven't done the conversion to silicone before, you
should note that normal brake fluid is considered a contaminant to silicone,
so you've got to flush all that old stuff out, before you can start loading
up the silicone.  Sounds like a bunch of work eh ?  No wonder my mechanic
friend recommends it to his customers...

    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover ++ '69 S.IIa 88"

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