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From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Land Rovers and charging Boadiceas
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 01:34:41 -0600 (MDT)

Dixon writes:

<         changed since Bodecia made use of them, successfully for a time,
<         against the forerunners of the Fiat conglomerate.

Has anybody seen or used Bog Cogs which bolt on to wheels?  They look
as though they were inspired by Boadicea's chariot wheels.  No, I take
that back; they look more like her upper body armour.  

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Ben's sticking clutch
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 17:25:14 +0930 (CST)

 Ben <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>  went out to play and now writes:

     Well Bill Maloney and I had an interesting Saturday of 
offroading.
..............Snip Snip Snip..........

  When I went out to use the Rover this morning, the 
clutch and the flywheel would not separate.  It feels like this 
clutch master cylinder is doing something, but if I turn the 
ignition with the clutch down and the tranny in gear the starter 
moves the Rover.  If I put it in neutral and start it, I grind 
trying to get into gear (with the clutch down).  Any ideas out 
there?  Any "Fixes" without pulling the tranny?

Ah The old stuck clutch syndrome.  Didnt fit the wading plug did we :-)
(Dont worry I never bother to either)

Ben, the pressure plate has probably rusted to the flywheel. parked hot and
damp this happens rather quickly.

If it was _me_ in this position (again) I would put my foot on the clutch,
start the beast in gear and once under way blip the throttle, (Ok flatten it
then lift right off Very quickly)  I think second gear works better than
first but I havent done this for a while :-)

(Hey Kids dont try this at home we're trained professionals !!!!!)

The idea is to spin the clutch off of the flywheel, you will probably need to
be brutal it is not desirable to use anough force to snap half shafts though.
Once it does come free deliberately slip the clutch a bit
to "polish" off the crud.

This is obviously brutal and has the potential for damage so its your
decision.  Be aware that if the 2 offending pieces stay stuck for too long
you will be looking at a new clutch kit plus a machined flywheel.  This can
happen if you live in a Humid tropical envt. and dont drive your rover for
six weeks too :-( 

There are other possible causes for "stuck clutch" but IMHO this is the first
and most likely option to consider

Best of luck
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars/LR Safety
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 10:43:49 UNDEFINED

/Safety.I have heard an eminent accident inspector say that the best
/safety device in his opinion would be a bloody great spike fixed to
/the centre of the steering wheel pointing at the driver.I must say
/I agree with him.The most dangerous thing about a lot of vehicles
/is IMO,the driver.Surrounded with "fail safe" devices he regards
/himself as immortal.Only too often he realises this is a fallacy
/far too late.I'm just grateful my crumple zones are other peoples.

My view is that the compulsory seatbelt law was completely cocked up. Since 
it was introduced, car injuries have gone down but injuries/fatalities of all 
othewr road users from being hit by cars has gone up to more than compensate. 
Also crrash sp[eeds have increased.

The ideal would have maded it compulsory for passengers in a car to wear 
seatbelts but to have PROHIBITED tha driver from doing so. So it becomes moerr 
obvious to him that ihs life is on the line from his own mistakes.

/As for Bull Bars,well, personally I dont rate 'em.I fail to see
/the advantage in driving around with a field gate bolted to my

Bull bars are an admission of crap driving. They say 'I crash into the back of 
things'. You need the Bullbars on teh BACK of teh vehicle to guard against 
rear shunts by folk drivning while asleep.

/front bumper.Hit something and it bends back causing far more
/damage to its parent vehicle than if it wasnt there in the first
/place.HOWEVER,isnt it about time that pedestrains were told to

In a moderate collision that would bend a body panel or two, with a bullbar, 
it strains the chassis.

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: HOW DO I GET OFF DIGEST MODE?????????
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 10:45:51 UNDEFINED

I mailed Majordomo for help, but it didnt tell me...............

How do I get back to getting alll the messages individually. Not being able to 
read by threads is driviing me berserk - I just dont have the time to read the 
digests.

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 94 14:06:45 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@compuserve.com>
Subject: The yellow knob

This is a dumb question for someone who has owned his Series III 88 for 
22 years but here goes anyway.

While moving in any gear but especially 4th gear at 50 mph can you engage
4WD by pushing in the clutch and pushing down on the yellow knob?  I have 
always changed into 4WD at a stop for fear of damaging something.  Also
generally needing 4WD has never been a surprise and stopping first has not
been a problem.

Second question

What is a NADA.  I have seen several references to a NADA Land Rover and
have not a clue what it is.

I have been lurking recently as my Land Rover is still in the shop under
going a major restoration (the first in its 22 years) it was still running
well but I felt it was time for a restoration to ensure continued
reliability.  In the entire time I have owned it it has never broken down.
Not something I can say about anyother car I have owned!!
Thanks

Keith Steele
72' Series III since new
75126,1123@compuserve.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: The yellow knob 
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 1994 11:44:07 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

Keith,
	NADA stands for North American Dollar Area, and
refers to a model of 109 that was imported to the US in I
think 1967. It had a special 6 cyl engine peculiar
to that model only, of which only about 500 were built. As
you can imagine, parts for this NADA engine are just about
impossible to get. Steve Dennis in New York, denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU,
is fortunate enough to own on of these rare birds among his  many
109's.
	I have always done as you do when changing to 4WD, that is stop.
But I don't think it's needed, although I would hesitate to do it at 50
mph. I however, often changed out of 4 low to 2 high while moving as much 
as 15-20 mph with no apparent damage or nasty grinding gear noises.
						Rgds
						Mike Fredette
						94 Defender 90
						(formerly a 72 Ser lll)
						61 Ser ll 109

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Sep 1994 20:16:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Land Rovers and charging Boadiceas

I have not used them but I have a Camel Trophy tape where they were used
for "a few minutes" as it were and taken off.  They didn't work because
the 2 1/4 for one thing just couldn't turn them when stuck in mud.  From
the film, it looks like a good sounding idea that just doesn't work. 
Maybe someone has actually tried them and will report.  I seemed to recall
that the tire fitted vehicles did better.  Dave VE4PN
On Mon, 5 Sep 1994, T.F.
Mills wrote:

> Dixon writes:
> <         good off-road capabilities, but the basic design had not really
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
> University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

From: WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 1994 20:21:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Disco roof racks

When Land Rover went to Central America, all the Discos had huge roof racks
(does anyone know if these are the so-called "expedition racks"?) and some
of them were called upon to carry those carved stone idol replicas, which
surely weighed more than 250 lbs.  Whoever asked about such racks (8/30 digest
) might ask Land Rover.  I would also be interested in knowing where to get
one, if you find out.
Henry Wilson
94 Disco
59 Austin Healey 100-6

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 94 21:39:51 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes

On 04 Sep 1994 Benjamin Allan Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> wrote:

> ...snip...snip...
>   was ok.  When I went out to use the Rover this morning, the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> moves the Rover.  If I put it in neutral and start it, I grind 
> ...snip...

Looks like your clutch plate is rusted onto the flywheel; couldn't
happen to me, always plenty of oil coming in through the rear crankshaft
seal. That's what you get for having a 'dry' engine on a Rover, see?

Anyway, to get it off: Take off the interior front housing of the
gearbox ("gearbox diaphragm panel" is the proper denomination) to gain
access to the upper part of the bell housing. There you will find a
small metal plate the form of a lying capital "D" fixed by two screws.
Take it off and you will find a hole giving access to the interior of
the bell housing. Press the clutch pedal and spray some light, thin 
rust solvent oil into the housing, aiming high and well to the front
of the clutch. Try not to smother the clutch too much. *Don't* use
MO-oil, as this will ruin your clutch plate and give you plenty of
'shudder' lateron. In the meantime put the car onto a straight and
flat peace of road, preferably with a slight descent. After a few 
minutes, release the handbrake,put in 2nd gear *low ratio* and start
the engine with the clutch released, i.e. don't have your foot on the
clutch pedal. Someone pushing from behind would help. The starter 
will begin moving the car and start the engine at the same time.
As soon an the engine is running, drive ahead at a moderate speed 
until the engines runs smooth. Now *press* the clutch all the way 
down and start playing with the trottle, making the car to jump and
jerk (don't overdo it though!). The clutch should come loose with
a loud *bang*. I must warn you that the clutch _might_ get damaged
by this process, but if it does the gearbox will have to come off
anyway. If it survives this treatment - and it usually does - you've
saved yourself a lot of work. Afterwards, spray the inside of the
bell housing (again through the little hole) liberally with brake
cleaner to clear out as much of the rust solvent oil as possible.
Reassemble.
Just a short bit of advice for the next time you head into unknown 
murky depths,
- plug the bottom opening of the bell housing with the appropriate
screw before submersion (not forgetting to *un*plug it afterwards!),
and/or
- 'burn' the clutch plate dry afterwards by deliberately riding it
for a while (again, not overdoing it).

Take care,

Stefan R. Jacob <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
LROC of Hessen

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 00:57:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Weekend jaunt/clutch woes

Ben goes Swimming with Bill....
>      Well Bill Maloney and I had an interesting Saturday of 
    snip-snipity-snip
> to join them.  I had just seen one of the Land Cruisers negotiate 
> a ~30 foot long mud hole/puddle and they challenged me to try it.   
    snipy-snip
>      The rest of the day went ok until the end.  To get into and 
> out of this area required fording a stream that was about a foot 
> deep, about 40 feet across and had a rocky bottom.  We took some 
    rip-tear
> was ok.  When I went out to use the Rover this morning, the 
> clutch and the flywheel would not separate.  It feels like this 

RUSTED CLUTCH!!!! 
Sounds like it might have gotten a bit *damp*.. Got your drain plug in??
You can probably break it loose by starting it in gear with your foot on the
clutch. If you have a starter button, you may be able to just bump the
starter a few times (with the ignigtion off) and get it to break loose.
Had this happen to the Triumph once (no, I didn't take it swimming!) over
one winter. Went to start it in the spring and had the same problem. Was a
real pain in the arse but it did break loose.
A bit of advise that someone in the old car hobby gave me was to use a block
of wood to depress the clutch pedal when you store the car, the idea being
to give things a chance to dry out. I've never actually done this, having a
hydraulic clutch and all, but it might be something to try for a few hours
after taking the Rover through deep water. Then again, maybe not.
Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

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