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From: Robert Meredith <robm@hpman010.uksr.hp.com>
Subject: 88" sIII Questions
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 11:30:16 BST

Hi,

I've got a 21 year old SIII 88" 2.25l petrol landy that I bought a couple
of weeks ago and have a couple of questions for other SWB owners.

Has anyone got 750 tyres on their SWB, is this possible? I would like
to do this to make the gearing higher and improve the fuel consumption.

Fuel consumption:  Does anyone have a feel for the improvements with 
free wheeling hubs, larger tyres, overdrive? I'm getting about 15mpg on 
a commuting cycle at the moment.

Has anyone set up a sleeping arrangement with a board over the passenger
seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.

What is the usual top speed people are able to obtain on motorway driving 
with reasonable comfort?

Anyway I think this will do for starters I'm off to the spares shop to get
a new steering wheel as mine is sheeding black gunk all over my hands on
the way to work!!

Cheers,

Rob Meredith.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Range Rover tidbits
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 10:55:56 +0100 (BST)
From: Richard Jones <rich@amethyst.apricot.co.uk>

Rostykus, John writes:
none
[...] 
> >There is no good place to mount a CB radio in a R Rover.
> >Cutting the wood grained dash is out of the picture (wife problems)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>  This makes it very easy to access the controls, and does not interfere with 
> the drivers foot (the case on my CB is about 1-1/4" thick).

For pre-95 model year vehicles, another possibility, particularly if
you only want to have the CB fitted occasionally, but leave no trace
of it having been there when not fitted, is to remove the coin tray.

This coin tray (the thing in the middle of the dashboard, where the
radio speaker was on the early ones - yes I know that any self
respecting coin is going to jump right out on the first corner, but I
can't think of a better name so I will stick with it) is held in by a
couple of screews hidden below the rubber mat.  The mat just sits in
the try and isn't (or atleast shouldn't be glued in or anything silly
like that).

Once the tray is removed, it is farly easy to rig up a bracket to
mount the CB using the tray mounting holes.  There is plenty of space
behind the dash to feed the aerial cable through along with all the
other wires required.

Once you have finished with the CB you unplug the wires, drop them
into the hole, remove the bracket and put the tray back until the next
time you need it.  I literally only takes a couple of minites to
install or remove, once you have sorted the bracket and fed the cables
through.

Regards

	Rich

-- 
 _ __            Apricot Computer Limited    Tel:   (+44) 21 717 7171
' )  )      /    3500 Parkside               Fax:   (+44) 21 717 0123
 /--' o _. /_    Birmingham Business Park
/  \_<_(__/ <_   BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS         Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk
Richard Jones    United Kingdom                     ..!uknet!apricot!richardj

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: 88" sIII Questions
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 12:39:16 BST

> Hi,
> I've got a 21 year old SIII 88" 2.25l petrol landy that I bought a couple
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Has anyone got 750 tyres on their SWB, is this possible? I would like
> to do this to make the gearing higher and improve the fuel consumption.

According to the "Repair Operations Manual", SWB machines can be fitted
with 6.00,6.50.7.00 or 7.50 tyres.Acceleration suffers(I've got 205.16
Trakcker radials on mine,a little bigger than 6.00,but even so,the loss
of acceleration is noticeable.which with a diesel is a bit crucial:-).
With 7.50 tyres your speedo will be well out of calibration,but cruising
is less stressfull.

> Fuel consumption:  Does anyone have a feel for the improvements with 
> free wheeling hubs, larger tyres, overdrive? I'm getting about 15mpg on 
> a commuting cycle at the moment.
none
15mpg seems about average to good on a commuting cycle,FWH are worth having
IMO (theyre on my shopping list ever since I had occasion to run without my
front prop shaft for a fornight.The difference was noticeable.O/D well worth
having,but payback time has to be studied,an O/D is on my "I wish"list.
Electric fan may help,too.

> Has anyone set up a sleeping arrangement with a board over the passenger
> seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> a new steering wheel as mine is sheeding black gunk all over my hands on
> the way to work!!
Try Brasso,followed by spray on furnture polish.Cures the disintegration
problem for quite a while,and is cheaper than a new steering wheel.

> Cheers,
> Rob Meredith.
> but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.
none
Hope this helps
Cheerio
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jul 94 08:46:08 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@compuserve.com>
Subject: Fairey Overdrive

Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
considering having one installed and have several questions.

1.  How reliable is it.  Is it any more prone to problems than
the transmission/transfer case already installed in the Series III?

2.  How much work and modification is required?  Does it just bolt
into the power takeoff hole or is extensive modification required?

3.  How much does it change the gearing.  In other words can I cruise
at 60 MPH with approximately the same engine RPMs that I now experience
at 45 - 50 mph.

Thanks

Keith Steele
75126,1123@compuserve.com
'72 Series III 88 since new

------------------------------

From: "Keith Coman" <BAKC@giraffe.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Wed, 27 Jul 1994 14:58:08 GMT+0200
Subject:       Re: 88" sIII Questions

> I've got a 21 year old SIII 88" 2.25l petrol landy that I bought a couple
> of weeks ago and have a couple of questions for other SWB owners.
> Has anyone got 750 tyres on their SWB, is this possible? I would like
> to do this to make the gearing higher and improve the fuel consumption.
none

    Can't comment except that the effect of fuel consumption by 
switching tyres will probably only be measurable over many, many 
miles: extended payback.  Switching tyres on a Landie seems to be 
attractive only for specific applications (eg. lot of off-road work, 
beach\sand, etc.)  What might be interesting is to fit a set of 
conventional light truck tyres -- reduced rolling resistance = better
petrol consumption. (Akin to fitting "slicks" on a mountain bike in 
place of "knobblies".)

 > 
> Fuel consumption:  Does anyone have a feel for the improvements with 
> free wheeling hubs, larger tyres, overdrive? I'm getting about 15mpg on 
> a commuting cycle at the moment.

    15mpg is about right for this unit in urban commuting.  The best 
I've ever got in my SWB 2.25l was around 22-23mpg -- steady 45-47mph, 
no headwind, over very flat stretch of motorway.  Free-wheeling hubs 
are, in my view, a sensible addition to improve fuel economy -- one 
certainly seems to rev the engine less and for shorter periods when 
they are disengaged and when pulling away up to cruising speed -- 
definite reduced engine load.  (Akin to air conditioner "off" versus 
"on".)  Overdrive -- probably very good if yr vehicle does a fair bit 
of long range cruising on paved surfaces, but no personal experience.

> Has anyone set up a sleeping arrangement with a board over the passenger
> seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
> but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.
> to do this to make the gearing higher and improve the fuel consumption.

    Hammock: fitted diagonally across the cab and loadbed.  Foot end 
attached to the front corner in the top angle of the passenger door 
and windscreen; head end into the opposite angle aft.  Works sweet 
with a hard-top roof, rolls up into a small space, and jolly 
comfortable --- short arses only tho!!
Cheers,
Keith Coman
> What is the usual top speed people are able to obtain on motorway driving 
> with reasonable comfort?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Rob Meredith.
>  * Dept of Management, Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jul 94 08:51:55 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@compuserve.com>
Subject: RoverWeb Access

I would like to access the RoverWeb and so far have unable to do so.
I use Delphi for internet access.  If anyone of you Internet experts
could give me explicit instructions on accessing the RoverWeb via Delphi
I would be eternally gratefull.

Thanks

Keith Steele
75126.1123@compuserve.com
'72 Series III Since new.

------------------------------

From: "Keith Coman" <BAKC@giraffe.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Wed, 27 Jul 1994 15:18:08 GMT+0200
Subject:       Re: 88" sIII Questions

    Oops, missed these 'uns...

> > What is the usual top speed people are able to obtain on motorway driving 
> > with reasonable comfort?

    In stock condition: flat out is around 60mph.  Fast cruising: =\- 
50mph.  Comfortable cruising: 45-47mph.  Noise and steering attention 
become niggles at high speeds.  Also the old SII's brakes can give 
you a few hairy moments at really high speed crash-applications 
in traffic emergencies...!  Drive within the limits --- practically 45-
50mph.

 > > 
> > Anyway I think this will do for starters I'm off to the spares shop to get
> > a new steering wheel as mine is sheeding black gunk all over my hands on
> > the way to work!!

    What you can try is to get an old knife and really scrape all 
this sticky crud off the surface -- an amalgam of decaying plastic 
and years of finger goozie -- until you get down to hard plastic.  
Sand it down smooth.  Buy a 2-pack polyurothane(sp) black paint at yr 
hardware store.  Give it 3-4 coats: letting dry in between and light 
sand down.  Dries as hard as nails and looks like its brand new.  Did 
mine back in '85 and still looks immaculate after daily use.  Costs 
only a few readies and easily done over a weekend.  (You can also get 
different colours --- howzabout a Dayglo Orange Series II steering 
wheel?!!)
Cheers,
Keith Coman * Dept of Management, Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 

------------------------------

From: phile@stpaul.gov (Philip J Ethier)
Subject: Landrover crash (fwd)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 08:35:11 -0500 (CDT)

I Forwarded this message from british-cars:
---------------
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 13:47:29 BST
From: bryan@roborough.gpsemi.COM (Duncan Bryan)
Subject: Landrover crash

Hello Landrover fans,

	A friend of mine told me about his land rover driving friends
recent accident.  

	He skidded on an oil patch and consequently drove
straight through a dry stone wall at 50 mph. His SWB landrover demolished
the wall, hit a BIG rut and turned over (at about 25 ), ending up on one
side.

	After climbing out he somehow managed to get the thing back on its
wheels. OK the windscreen had gone and the wings were a bit mangled,
and the cab roof was worse for wear. He got back in, turned the key..
it started.  He drove it to his usual bodywork garage who told him
that the chassis was still straight and that only a few panels needed
replacing. Total cost < 200 pounds.

	The moral of the tale is, if you want to drive through 2 foot thick
dry stone walls and still use the vehicle afterwards then buy a landrover.

	This same friend used to go sledging in his Austin Princess ( 1982)
but that's a different story.

Happy wall smashing.

Duncan

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: 88" sIII Questions
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 16:10:59 UNDEFINED

>> Has anyone set up a sleeping arrangement with a board over the passenger
>> seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
>> but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.

>    Hammock: fitted diagonally across the cab and loadbed.  Foot end 
>attached to the front corner in the top angle of the passenger door 
>and windscreen; head end into the opposite angle aft.  Works sweet 
>with a hard-top roof, rolls up into a small space, and jolly 
>comfortable --- short arses only tho!!

Or sunlounger running along the sideboxes adn over the bulkhead fits nicely 
down the driver's side (so you dont need to move it to drive, just fold up the 
head section adn it doesnt obscure your rear vision). I'll be doing this game 
soon. Moving out of teh flat, and cant be bothered with the hassle renting 
somewhere else. We have some really beautiful laybys up in the hills..........

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: 88" sIII Questions
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 16:15:33 UNDEFINED

>> > What is the usual top speed people are able to obtain on motorway driving 
>> > with reasonable comfort?

My 90  n/a deisel did 85mph flat out on the stock Avon Traction Mileage 6.50s. 
I fitted the 205 radials to get better fule consumption. The fuel consumption 
went up from 31mpg to, er 31mpg!! The top speed dropped to about 65mph!

But the Avons wore out in 15k, the radials have 30k on and still 10mm of 
tread!!!

I cruise at 50 to be gentle to the engine. It'll hold 50 up most places. 88s'd 
do much the same?

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Landrover crash (fwd)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 16:20:38 UNDEFINED

>        The moral of the tale is, if you want to drive through 2 foot thick
>dry stone walls and still use the vehicle afterwards then buy a landrover.

A while ago, there was a smash on a fast A road on Anglesey. One of teh local 
farmers had done the usual Anglesey trick of pulling out from a sideroad 
without it occurring to him that there might be anything else on the 
road.......

The else was a Volvo doing about 60mph.

The Landrover (a 110 van) was severely dented. Looked like a good few hours 
with a hammer and paintbrush to make it look nice again.

The Volvo was only recognisable as such from the turret backwards.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 08:29:27 MST
From: DEBROWN@srp.gov
Subject: Air bag experiences???

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist
       AM/FM - PAB204 X-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Air bag experiences???
A friend of mine is doing some research on air bags, and I thought I'd
help him out by asking for responses from anyone that has had the
opportunity to have one employed. Please answer the following if you have:
  1. Do you believe that it prevented you further injury?
  2. Do you believe that it saved your life?
  3. Were you injured by the air bag itself?
  4. Given a choice, would you opt to have one in the vehicle you
     currently drive. (if you don't already have one.)
  5. Any other comments on air bags, good or bad.

Please respond to me at... debrown@srp.gov
Thanks,

   ***   ****   ****      "Some men see things as they are and say why?
  *     *  *   *  *   I see things as they never were and say why not?"
   *   ****   ****
***   * *    *                                        -Robert Frost

------------------------------

Subject: POLL-for 109/2.25L petrol owners
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 10:25:09 -0500

"TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> writes:

> I'm interested in knowing what kind of gas milage people are getting in 109s 
> with 2.25 petrol engines, and what carb they are using.

        The 109 seems to get a bit better than fifteen to the gallon & is
        using a weber carb.  Michel Bertrand recently checked his 109 pu
        and it was averaging about seventeen on the highway with a newly
        rebuilt engine & weber carb.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 09:35:11 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm2.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Fairey Overdrive

Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am
considering having one installed and have several questions.

1.  How reliable is it.  Is it any more prone to problems than
the transmission/transfer case already installed in the Series III?
     >> I've had one in mine for 2 years...no problem.

2.  How much work and modification is required?  Does it just bolt
into the power takeoff hole or is extensive modification required?
     >> You got it.  You need to cu a hole in the ttanny tunnel
     >> for the linkage.

3.  How much does it change the gearing.  In other words can I cruise
at 60 MPH with approximately the same engine RPMs that I now experience
at 45 - 50 mph.
     >> I think it something like 22%.

     >> In general, I'd be hard to live without an O/D once you had one.
     >> GO FOR IT!!!
     >> Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: POLL-for 109/2.25L petrol owners
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 17:25:43 UNDEFINED

>> I'm interested in knowing what kind of gas milage people are getting in 
109s >> with 2.25 petrol engines, and what carb they are using.

>        The 109 seems to get a bit better than fifteen to the gallon & is
>        using a weber carb.  Michel Bertrand recently checked his 109 pu
>        and it was averaging about seventeen on the highway with a newly
>        rebuilt engine & weber carb.

Havent got one myself, being a tightfisted Yorkshire-bred skinflint. But folk 
reckon that you'll get 22mpg with an overdrive,  a Weber, free-wheel hubs and 
road tyres.

These are Proper British Gallons and Proper British Miles.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 13:41:32 EDT
From: "THE X WINDOW SYSTEM: A VMS FOR THE 90S" <brandenberg@wrksys.enet.dec.com>
Subject: RE: Fairey Overdrive

Keith

>Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
>considering having one installed and have several questions.

I did this last winter on a IIA and sent an account of the procedure
to the net for hopeful eventual inclusing in the FAQ.  This should be
applicable...

>1.  How reliable is it.  Is it any more prone to problems than
>the transmission/transfer case already installed in the Series III?

Well, as a new piece of equipment, it *doesn't* leak oil.  I've
heard that they begin to experience serious wear at 50-60K miles
but I can't say from personal experience...

>2.  How much work and modification is required?  Does it just bolt
>into the power takeoff hole or is extensive modification required?

I'll forward the details.   On the IIA (and I assume on the III),
you remove a backing plate, bearing, and transfer gear from the
back of the transfer box and, more or less, bolt this on in place.
Need a hole in the transmission tunnel for the gear shift.  And
some diddling for the shift linkage.

>3.  How much does it change the gearing.  In other words can I cruise
>at 60 MPH with approximately the same engine RPMs that I now experience
>at 45 - 50 mph.

Again, I'll answer for the IIA since I don't have the III rations at
hand.  You can, however, infer the ratio from the following:

	4th gear normal:		~15 mph/1000 rpms
	4th gear OD:			~19.8 mpg/1000 rpms

I do 65 on the highway with an occasional jaunt over 70 though
the vibration gets to be a bit much at that speed.

monty

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 11:20:10 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: 88" sIII Questions

>I've got a 21 year old SIII 88" 2.25l petrol landy that I bought a couple
>of weeks ago and have a couple of questions for other SWB owners.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
>but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.
>What is the usual top speed people are able to obtain on motorway driving=
=20
>with reasonable comfort?
>Anyway I think this will do for starters I'm off to the spares shop to get
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>the way to work!!
>Rob Meredith.
If it's not too late to say so, I've always solved the sticky steering wheel=
=20
very satisfactorily by simpy adding a leather steering wheel cover.  Only=20
problem is that you need one for a large-diameter steering wheel.  One for a=
=20
'truck' will work or one for an old Jaguar (such as XK-120-150, look in back=
=20
of Road & Track mag for ads for parts for old Jags, e.g. Moss Motors).  This=
=20
addition makes the steering wheel a lot nicer to use, too, even in=20
comparison with a new, hard plastic rim.

A friend of mine has a simple arrangement for sleeping using three pieces of=
=20
plywood which can be easily removed.  The rear ones can be left in place=20
when driving, the front one removed and quickly replaced.  I don't know how=
=20
tall you are but make sure you will have enough room before you go to all=20
that trouble!  The hammock (Keith Coman's reply) sounds like a neat idea,=
 too.

I've generally always had FW hubs on my Rovers and it probably helps with=20
the mileage (I,ve never been able to make an accurate mileage check because=
=20
I've never had a Rover with a working odometer!)  But a caution about these=
=20
hubs:  I,ve read several times that you should leave them locked as much as=
=20
you can (I only unlock mine for long highway runs) because otherwise the=20
hubs (and maybe the swivel balls) will not get adequately lubricated;=20
Land-Rover's 'closed-knuckle' front axle depends upon the rotating axle=20
shafts to move the lubricant around to all the parts which need it.

Regarding 7.50x16s:  I have run them and found that they will make you a bit=
=20
overgeared unless your engine is really strong (like, really fresh, with=20
headers and a two-barrel Weber carb set-up).  Also, I found that my steering=
=20
stops needed to be adjusted slightly to keep the tires from rubbing the=20
wheel wells (ironically I didn't have that problem with 12x15s!)  I think=20
that the best part about going to 7.50s is the increase in ground=20
clearance--something I never seem to have enough of.  Do use radials!  I=20
believe that the Goodyear Wrangler MT is available in 7.50x16 and I also=20
think that the Firestone Steeltex ATX 23=B0 is.  Serious tires (if you want=
=20
real off-road capability.  Me, I'd rather have Michelin XCLs, if one could=
=20
still get them here, but not a tire for commuting!)

Have fun!

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 27 Jul 94 18:27:52 GMT
Subject: Fairey Overdrive

Keith, 

Re your Fairy Overdrive questions: 

none
1.  How reliable is it.  Is it any more prone to problems than the 
transmission/transfer case already installed in the Series III? 
none

Generally they are pretty reliable if treated with care.  Use it only for top 
gear cruising.  It's not strong enough to use with lower gears.  The internal 
components are nowhere near as substantial as those of your main gearbox.  
The thrust bearing rollers are only slightly larger than the lead of a 
woodend pencil (those were what whent on one of mine).  Change the oil as 
frequently as that of the engine.  It doesn't hold much and it's the only way 
to purge condensation sludge or water ingestation (if you wade at all). 

none
2.  How much work and modification is required?  Does it just bolt into the 
power takeoff hole or is extensive modification required? 
none

The unit itself just bolts onto the back of the transfer.  There are a couple 
of nuts that need to be threaded before you seat the OD all the way in, so 
don't tighten any nuts until all are threaded on the studs.  The hardest part 
is to cut the hole for the engagement lever in the right spot.  Start with a 
small hole, then enlarge it until you get it right. 

none
3.  How much does it change the gearing.  In other words can I cruise at 60 
MPH with approximately the same engine RPMs that I now experience at 45 - 50 
mph. 
none

The OD reduces your gearing by 15%.  It does make a difference in engine 
noise on the highway.  Much more pleasant.  If you want the OD to save gas, 
payback will take a while unless you do really serious mileage.  If you want 
quieter more relaxed cruising, go for it.  Rovers North seems to have the 
best price at the moment. 

Bill Maloney 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 94 15:11:24 EDT
From: "THE X WINDOW SYSTEM: A VMS FOR THE 90S" <brandenberg@wrksys.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive

Bill Maloney writes:

>1.  How reliable is it.  Is it any more prone to problems than the 
>transmission/transfer case already installed in the Series III? 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>frequently as that of the engine.  It doesn't hold much and it's the only way 
>to purge condensation sludge or water ingestation (if you wade at all). 

I think I'll have to disagree with the top gear cruising remark above.
Unlike other overdrive units, this device is not an on/off unit but
a full-blown, two-speed synchromesh transmission.  It has a mainshaft
fed from the interior spline, a layshaft, and output shaft that drives
the exterior gear that mates with the middle transfer gear, and a 
proper fork selector, synchros, etc.  Torque is *always* transmitted
through the overdrive unit and onto the layshaft so the above, which
would apply to, say, an MG overdrive, doesn't apply to the LR.

Another benefit I forgot to mention in my original mail...  If you
have a IIA transmission, you can avoid having to do a double-declutch
downshift into second.  (A process made difficult by the fact that
the 2.25l engine will mostly ignore a throttle 'blip'...)  Put the
OD into neutral, quickly select second, re-engage the OD.  Will not
grind the gears, though it does make a very positive 2nd gear engagement.
Realize that the OD's synchros *are* doing work so this isn't a complete
win....

monty

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 13:22:14 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: RE: Fairey Overdrive

> >Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
> >considering having one installed and have several questions.
none

Here's some of my old mail on this subject, well worth what you paid:

  When I bought my overdrives several years ago, the general opinion was that
the Toro unit was better than the factory approved, Fairey overdrive,
because the Toro holds more oil and is less subject to overheating. I have not
heard anything that changes this theory, and have had no trouble with my Toro.
  Which ever you choose, I think you will discover that oil "pumps" from the 
transfer case to the overdrive and then blows all over the rear window. This
can be overcome by running a tube from the O/D overflow plug to the 
transfer case overflow plug. Or, connecting the air vents of the O/D and 
transfer case with tube.
  When I first got my Rover, there was no sign of oil leaking from the swivel
balls either, so I didn't check it right away, and, that's right, there was no
oil in them to leak out. I soon learned how to replace wheel bearings and stub
axles. 

and

  I have had a Toro overdrive on my '64 SIIa-88" for about four years and
40K miles. ELEPHINO has been over the Sierra Nevadas many times in blizzards
and sub zero tempretures and on many Black Rock Desert trips trough sand, mud
in 115 F temps. carrying; two weeks supplies, four full Jerry cans, my
Air Camping tent, me, wife and three kids, and the dog. No problem.
  When I first installed the OD the oil was "pumping" out of the transfer case
into the OD. This was discovered when I found 90 weight oil sprayed on the
rear after runs on the freeway. The OD was getting full and pushing oil out
the vent hole. I installed a drain tube from the OD to the transfer case by
just replacing the oil level check plugs with hose barbs connected with a 
length of 3/8" fuel hose. This was in place for about a year and several
adventures. On one of the desert trips after a long run on the hyway I smelled
HOT 90 weight, so I stopped to check it out. The dip stick was missing from
the OD and it was low on oil. I filled it up, made a plug for the hole and
continued the trip. The oil had run into the transfer... down the tube, due
to driving up and down steep hills in hot temps. The dip stick must have been
blown out, as it was a snug fit with an "o" ring. 
  This occurrence made me think that the oil wasn't pumping but was being
forced by air pressure from the transfer to the OD. I removed the "drain
tube" and installed a vent tube between the OD and the transfer case and
the atmosphere. This has been on for three years and now the oil in each
section stays there. The vent tube is up high and I can install a cap for
very deep wading. 
  I disagree that the Toro is a kludge, The extra oil capacity is an
advantage. Both brands of OD will give good service if they are kept full
of oil. I suspect that many ODs have died because they have been run dry.
I have the remains of two Toros that were given to me. Both are fried due to
lack of oil. I hope to get one complete, working unit from this pile of parts,
for my 88 PU.

CONSUMER NOTICE: Because of the "Uncertainty Principle," It Is
 Impossible for the Consumer to Find Out at the Same Time Both
 Precisely Where This Product Is and How Fast It Is Moving.

Regards, Bill G.  
  

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive 
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 13:48:31 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

>Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
>considering having one installed and have several questions.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>75126,1123@compuserve.com
>'72 Series III 88 since new

Keith,
	I just installed the Fairey unit 3 months ago on my 72 Ser lll.
In a word, wonderful. It makes the car a true highway driveable machine.
I used to be winding upwards of 3200-3500 RPM and only be going 52-55 MPH.
Of course that was going downhill, on the staight and level, 50 tops, uphill
forget it, maybe 40. Now add 15 MPH to all the above with overdrive and
you get the idea. It now cruises comfortably at 65 MPH and gets 17 MPG with
the WARN hubs disengaged. It was EXTREMELY easy to install, unbolt the PTO
cover, bolt on the overdrive. The most time consuming part was properly
locating, marking, and cutting out the hole for the shift lever in the 
transmission tunnel. Reliable is all in how you treat it. Change the gear
oil semi regularly, and only use it in 3rd and 4th gear, should be bullet 
proof.
						Rgds
						Mike Fredette
						72 Ser lll 88
						Portland, Or.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 15:38:23 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive

>Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
>considering having one installed and have several questions.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>at 60 MPH with approximately the same engine RPMs that I now experience
>at 45 - 50 mph.
I have installed one for another owner and found that the directions and 
templates or whatever led me to cut the hole for the shift lever in slightly 
the wrong place.  I had to "oval" the hole and then make an escutcheon to 
cover the goof.  Otherwise it was pretty easy.  My friend is quite happy 
with it as are most others I have known who have had them.  

At least two of the owners that have had the Fairey overdrives installed for 
awhile split-shift in all gears and don't seem to have had problems as a result.

One concern that I would have about installing any overdrive is that I 
recently read (I'm not sure where) that, due to the fact that the drive will 
always go through an extra set of gears, there is potential for more slop in 
the drivetrain.  Always a problem with mine but, if your Land-Rover is fresh 
and tight, it should work fine.  Good luck!

------------------------------

Subject: Re: All British Field Meet 
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 16:03:44 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

John,
	Portland All British Field Meet

	The Field Meet is indeed on Labor Day weekend and this year
is special. For the first time, Rover/Land Rover is the featured
marque, much to the disgust of the Jaguar folks. The Pacific Coast
Rover club is helping host this with the aim at putting together
the largest gathering of Land Rover products in the country. Bottom
line we're telling everyone is, if it says Rover/Land Rover/Range
Rover on it, bring it. Running or not, bring it. We have received 
permission to camp out Sat night at the Field meet, there will be 
demonstrations of the new Disco and Defender on a driving/wading 
course set up on the grounds. Ex-Camel Trophy competitors will be 
on hand to show off or sign autographs or other silly whatevers. The
Starbirds, Tony and Linda, will be hosting thier traditional barbeque
at thier fantistic farm overlooking the valley. The swap meet will
hopefully be filled with Landy goodies etc. Basically, it's going to 
a Land Rover smorgasborg, tons of fun for any self respecting 90
weight lover. As I said, if you've got a Rover product, better try
and make this rally. 
						Rgds
						Mike Fredette
						72 Ser lll 88
						(not for long)
						Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 20:07:11 -0400
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>

For those following my pinion nut/leaking new rear diff nightmare:

First off, thanks to those who made suggestions.  Several of
you suggested just heating it.  Steve Denis made comment of 
a yoke that was an available bit, and a couple of others suggested
just making one up or "shibing" one.  (For those of you from
forein soils, the terms shibing, or shibe, or shibish, or any
derivation thereof, all stem from the infamous auto painter, the
late Earl Shibe, who would paint your car for twenty bucks, but
wouldn't use masking tape.  Lets just say you'd get what you
paid for.) One netter, Steve (?) from Hessen (??), seconded and
thereby confirmed my suspicion that I could brace a breaker bar
up against the rear leafspring, throw it into front wheel drive
(rear prop off), and edge forward.  The yoke trick failed me-
managed to make up a good "do-it-earl" tool, got plenty of torque
on it, used my legs on the yoke and my arms on the nut, all with
two two-plus foot long bars on each, pulled, strained, grunted,
and got a wicked cramp in my calves.  Was outa propane on the 
torch, got edgy, and went for the brace it up against the spring
method.  Worked first try, no problem, no slamming, bashing, or
four letter words uttered.  Guess Nige is a much better man than I.

The sad story is, that even after replacing the seal, the gasket
on the retainer, and putting the prop shaft back on, the damned thing
*STILL* leaks.  I am baffled.  Drove through deep grass to clean it
all off, jacked up the rear, threw it in fourth, ran it awhile,
looked underneath-no leak.  Take it for a drive-leak city.  You might
think it easy to tell just where the leak is coming from, but the
entire rear diff is dripping wet.  Sounds dumb, I know, and as though
any fool could fix it, but this fool hasn't (yet).  Don't think
it is coming from the housing-casing mating surface (went through that
awhile ago-the gasket was *completely* dry when I took it apart and
resealed with permatex just in case), absolutely NOT coming from the
breather (it's the only dry spot there!), nor the hub seals (no "spokes").
Maybe, maybe, maybe, maybe the leak is coming from the filler spout-
the copper ring could be hanging up on the lip, but does not appear
to be doing this by close visual inspection. Then there is always the 
chance that I've got a hairline crack in this thing somewhere.

Dixon suggested I should attach it to a buoy, sink it in Lake Champlain,
and tell RN where they can find it!  (no, no, I *am* making this up,
and have nothing at all against our pals in Westford, Vt.)

We shall overcome,
rd/that leaking nige thing.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 20:14:26 -0400
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>

> Has anyone got 750 tyres on their SWB, is this possible? I would like
> to do this to make the gearing higher and improve the fuel consumption.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> free wheeling hubs, larger tyres, overdrive? I'm getting about 15mpg on 
> a commuting cycle at the moment.

Nigel (a '60 SII 88) has 7.50 x 16 Michelin Radials all about, Fairey OD,
Warn Hubs (ie all of the above), Roach-ester carb.  He cranks.  Keeps up
with NYC commuter traffic no problem (so long as we are on a flat or heading
downhill).  I think only Monty will keep up with him.  Speedo is surely off
with the high profile tyres, and Nige has pegged it on occasion, but is 
more comfortable at lower speeds (like 60-65, indicated).  Since fixing
the wheel wobble problem (Railko bushes) I have no qualms about running
with the Lexus and Beemer crowd (just don't ask me to stop!....now knowing
that he'll cut straight through rock walls and volvos I feel even more
confident in the strength of his stride, but I s'poze I shouldn't let
it get to my head).  Mileage?  What I gained in mileage I gave up to
top speed.....I get in the 12-17 range, depending on just what me and
Nige do after work.  If we trotted instead of cantered about, I am sure
we'd blow through the 17 mark, maybe even hit 20 (ya right).

IMHO, the biggest advantage of ODs is that you basically get an extra
gear in between all the others and then one more on top.  Makes for
interesting driving.  You'll find that uphills are more fun to navigate
than downhills....first, second, second OD, third, third OD, fourth-oops,
third OD, crest the hill, fourth OD, etc.  You may even want to become
a trucker after working one.  Forget about the gas savings...you will
blow it just like I do (on more speed-ie just keeping up with traffic).
You will get where you are going slightly faster (what is it, 15-22%
or so?) than you would otherwise.

> Has anyone set up a sleeping arrangement with a board over the passenger
> seat? I know you'll all laugh and say if you want to sleep in it buy a 109
> but I'm only thinking of this for very rare (emergency) situations.

I have dreams and plans but nothing built just yet.  I am thinking along
the lines of the 3 chuncks of plywood that someone else mentioned.  Would
like to maintain relatively free access to the rear bed, set aside a space
for tools and bits, and have the front piece (which would cover the passenger
seat and a little more) hinged to the rear section, with some sort of
hangers that could attach to the top of the dash for front support (oh, 
but you got a SIII-sorry, won't work).  Ideally, the driver should
still be able to drive while a passenger snoozes (assuming they can
take the bumps without waking up-I can NO problem, I can sleep anywhere-
EXCEPT in a hammock!  Good place to rest, though, but I wouldn't want
to spend a week in one (have before-never again)).

But, if this is only for emergency situations, you could always curl up
in the front seat or the rear bed if you had to.  I once spent the night
in the front of an 88 *with* a friend, in sub-US-zero temperatures, and
we survived.  Heck, wasn't even an emergency. I was a little shorter
then, though.

> Anyway I think this will do for starters I'm off to the spares shop to get
> a new steering wheel as mine is sheeding black gunk all over my hands on
> the way to work!!

The patented Mike Rooth brasso/lemon pledge method works fine, for a time.
I'd paint mine if I were more ambitious, but I might get carried away and
paint the whole thing.

and Nige wouldn't be Nige without the flakey paint job.

chow,
rd/danige

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rover 4 Sale
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 17:20:38 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

OK folks,
 
	Don't let this happen to you. There is a disease out there amongst
us, the UK folk have been exposed longer so they've built up an immunity
to it that the rest of us don't have. Defender 90itis. This disease takes
only a few minutes of exposure to be fatal. I made the mistake of taking
the demonstrator Defender 90 from the local dealer for the day. A big
expensive mistake. It took a hot 15 minutes to fall in lust for this car.
Mind you it's not everyone's cup of tea, but it sure comes close if you
like Landies.
	So, I took the employee profit sharing check, sold some stock,
sold my 3 month old son Mitchell, and worst, my Land Rover, and came up
with a down payment that makes me retch to think about, but keeps the 
monthlies to a manageable level. It's Coniston Green and I pick it up on
Friday, and I can't stop grinning. I watched what Doug Shipman can do with
one on some of the same trails we had our Northwest Challenge on. We went
out last weekend and it was truly amazing what this vehicle can do. It
doesn't do anything my old Landy can't do, it just makes it a LOT easier
to do it.
 	Anyway, to business. It's kind of like shooting your own dog,
nobody else can do it, so here goes.
			72 SER lll Land Rover 88
 
Tan in color,WARN winch,WARN hubs,Fairey overdrive(new),lamp guards front
and rear,rear mud flaps,new seat cushions,90 style cubby box with my 89
Range Rover's casette,CB radio,seats and belts for 7 idiots,Weber carb,new
brakes,new brake hydraulics,new clutch hydraulics,new battery,new tires
235/75 15 on 5 newly painted rims,new alternator, new distributor,all new
hoses,military style pintle hitch and tow shackles,new swivel pins,new universal
joints,new hub seals all around,new seals everywhere I could find a leak 
ie. everywhere,new rear axles,new spring bushings all around,interior is 
just about perfecet,exterior has a few dents but don't they all. Door seals
don't leak water, neither do the vents, new spare front grill, tailgate 
for those that prefer to go topless, spare standard towing jaw assy, 
couple spare swivel pins and other bits. I swear on whatever, that it only
has one 90 weight leak now, transfer case to tranny junction. Too hard to
get at easily.The engine runs perfectly, NO leaks, burning a quart of oil 
per 400 miles or so. The heater heats, the wipers wipe(at both speeds no 
less), the blinkers blink etc. If it's electrical it works. The clutch is
in great shape, smooth with no jumping, the transmission/transfer is also
in great shape, no nasty noises,  all synchros smooth, no jumping out gear.
A small spot of rust on the rear crossmember at the drain holes that has been
fixed, rest of the frame and bulkhead is fine.I've done all the above to it in
the last twelve months, getting it to the point where it's great to drive
every day, then Land Rover sent the Pestilence over to North America.
Those in the Pacific Northwest know Doug Shipman's reputation as an
honest Land Rover lunatic. 503 252 5566 and he can give an opinion on my
truck that is trustworthy. I'm asking 6000 US for it or the best offer I
get between now and the end of August which is when the thieves at
Rassmussen Range Rover want the thier pound of flesh.
						Rgds
						Mike Fredette
						mfredett@ichips.intel.com
						503 696 8037 office
						503 645 4034 home 
						Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Landrover crash
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 94 12:05:55 EST

> I Forwarded this message from british-cars:
> ---------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> Happy wall smashing.
> Duncan

        A few years back, I saw 110 v8 that had hit concreate bridge head on
at 100 kph.  From behind the bulkhead, the vehicle was fine, and the driver
walked away with a fractured hip.  I would not have like the guys chances had
he been in any other brand of four wheel drive, if he was, I think he would
have had a little more than a fractured hip.

        Also in LRO a while back, they had a story of how a Canadian learned
to stop is 109 from 40MPH to 0 in 6 inches, when he hit a power poll.  The
snaped, and as he hit strait on one of the dumb irons, the vehicle only
needed a little chassie straitening, and a new radiator and the vehicle was
fine again.

        The only thing that I like to stop my Series 1 with is brakes,
which needed 4 pumps last I drove it in February, I think it needs new
drums shoes, and could probably do with some new snails, and a couple of
brake lines, and the master cylinder might need over hauling, other than
that the brakes are fine!

        Also a question to owners of 2.25 diesels, how long do you generally
need to glow the motor, and did it need glowing longer just after a rebuild?

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel (Soon!)
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Fairy Overdrive
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 94 12:11:47 EST

> Has anyone installed a Fairey Overdrive in a Series III 88.  I am 
> considering having one installed and have several questions.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> 75126,1123@compuserve.com
> '72 Series III 88 since new

My parents Series III wagon had an over drive.  It worked fine with the 2.6,
but only lasted a couple of months when they (stupidly IMHO) put a 3.3l
nissan diesel in, this just made the bearings in the overdrive and the
main shaft of the gear box, absolutely shit them selves.

        I have also been warned that they should only be used as and overdrive,
and not to use them inbetween gears.

        But if you spend most of your time on the road, why not just get a 
set of 4.1:1 high speed diffs.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel (Soon!)
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 21:41:21 -0700
From: jfhess@bullwinkle.ucdavis.edu (john hess)
Subject: land rovers and africa

>From the August 1994, National Geographic, stolen for the amusement of Land
Rover addicts:

Qoute-  The lions became totally at ease with our ragtag vehicle--its doors
and roof removed to accomodate tripods and allow easy exit in an emergency.
 Its frame has been bashed by elephants. It once nearly carried us into the
hereafter when we followed lions across a small brush fire.  Picking our
way over glowing red coals was eerie, like driving on Mars. Suddenly we
looked at each other--we both smelled fuel.  I hit the brakes, luckily
stopping in an area free of flames and coals. A stump had disconnected the
gas line in the undercarriage. We fixed it and drove on.  unqoute.

        My wife read the above passage and proclaimed "THESE ARE LAND ROVER
PEOPLE !!". Any doubt that they were driving a Land Rover?  From the little
bits of email I bring home printed out, she's decided that Land Rover
people are a whole lot more fun than the Sunbeam Tiger club members.  She's
even gone so far as to say we could fly to portland and buy the 88 recently
advertised and drive it home.  I just don't know how I got so lucky;  she
agreed to the purchase of a Sunbeam Tiger, a car with no heater in the
winter and a blast furnace in the summer, and now is willing to go along
with a Land Rover!  Some guys have all the luck :-) !.

        While I'm posting, I want to say that I checked a book out of the
Davis library about east african wildlife. The book was definitely geared
for people who intend to travel there, loaded with pictures and useful
information.  It also had pistures of Land Rovers.  One was a green short
wheel base with 2 cheetahs on the hood and two people (standing up through
a hole in the roof) snapping photos of them.  The second was a picture of
two 4 door 109s driving down a dirt road.  Also in this book is a photo of
(I think) a convertible volkswagen bug driving on the most incredible RED
dirt road.  Greenish yellow grass is on each side and the road is fresh
iron oxide red/orange.  The car is quite away and small so it could be
something else, but I don't think it's a rover.

Bye for now,

john f hess phd (wow, really?)
jfhess@ucdavis.edu

from home via modem

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jul 1994 22:25:27 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 88 vs 109

> But teh 88 is more nimble offroad; and makes a 
> far better towing platform - which is why all the farmers go for em.

Why is it that the 88 is better for towing?  My sister, the horse fiend 
seems to think that bigger is better for towing.  (Like the Chevy Suburban 
which is simply huge.)  

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: 88 vs 109
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 94 15:37:05 EST

> > But teh 88 is more nimble offroad; and makes a 
> > far better towing platform - which is why all the farmers go for em.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
> Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
> San Francisco, California                               

This is easy.  It is way easier to back a trailer with a shortie, than a
long wheel base, as the shortie is more manovurable(spelling?).  I have got
so used to backing my 86" that I am absolutly hopeless at backing anything
longer, even small cars!

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel (Soon!)
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

	
    
          
	



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