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From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 12 Jul 94 23:26:57 GMT
Subject: Re: ohhhh theee heattt

Ben writes:

does anyone of you vetran rover goers know of any  remedy to dissipate the 
heat created by the exhaust under my feet. it has been unbearable the last 
couple of days since its gotten over 25 degrees. my truck is already topless, 
althought it helps it is still way too hot under there. i would also like to 
know what the normal opperating temp is in the city??? my truck gets in the 
middle of the n-h area and somtimes frightens me, should it get that hot? 
there doesn't seem to be a water leak and everything looks good so what could 
be bothering the cooling system. thermostat maybe???? one more thing i think 
the flex hose for the clutch slave needs replacing. every time i drive in the 
city and the truck gets hot i have some serious problems engaging into any 
gears as in can't get em into 1 2 and r i was told that maybe the flexhose is 
expanding due to the heat in the area??? any help would be appreciated. thx
ben series 69 iia swb

Ben,

The heat shield is probably missing from your exhaust manifold.  This will 
dramatically increase the heat to the footwell area.  As for the high 
operating temperature, first I would check the timing to ensure it's not 
retarded and then change the thermostat.  Also, make sure no exhaust gases are 
blowing out between the headpipe and the manifold itself.  This will prevent 
the exhaust and heat in the engine from scavenging properly (makes it run 
hot).  And yes, your clutch flex line is probably expanding.  While you're 
replacing it, you may as well replace the slave cylinder while you're in the 
area.

Good Luck!

Bill Maloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 12 Jul 94 23:43:13 GMT
Subject: July LRO

I just got my July issue of LRO.  This is the earliest I've received it in 
quite a while.  Robin Craig's article on the Canadian Discovery launch was 
included (nice job Robin) and there was a small tear in the middle of both 
pages.  Very puzzling.

Someone at LRO must be reading the net, 'cause this month they had 2 articles 
on leaf sprung Rover maintenance.  One was on dissasembling a III box with 
mainshaft, reverse gear, and synchro problems.  The diagnosis is to fit a 
reconditioned box.  We in the US would probably do the same if we could get a 
reconditioned gearbox for $600.

The other was a "cure" for leaky rear axles.  Pack the bearings with grease.  
I'm surprised they ran it.  If you're going to go through that much trouble 
it's not that much more work to replace the hub seal races and clear the axle 
breather at the same time.  And it saves you the hassle of packing the 
bearings.

That's it for now

Bill Maloney 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 09:22:44 -0400
From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong)
Subject: Re: there I go again

Hi Lee;

I am FAR from being a TDi expert -  I just know what I hear - TDi owners in 
the UK are DELIGHTED with it - main complaint was a ticking sound (which I 
actually like) in the 200 series which has now been significantly reduced in 
the new 300.

If you mean sub zero Celsius - NO Problem.  If you mean sub zero F ???  I 
don't know - The UK gets at least as cold as Boston (where I am) so it 
should be okay.
As for Upper Maine ???

I do rant on about carrying a small gasoline powered generator - if it is 
really cold you could run the generator to power a electric block heater.  
Many of these little boxes do both 120ac and 12dc!  Wonder how they start in 
really cold weather.

John

>John (who else?) writes:
>> TDI! TDI! TDI!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>TIA,
>Lee

 John Hong 
(jhong@haiku.com 617-625-9469 voice 623-5253 fax)

------------------------------

From: "Rostykus, John" <john@dspmail.Data-IO.COM>
Subject: Re: there I go again
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 07:19:00 PDT

>Hi Lee;
> ... bits omitted
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>really cold you could run the generator to power a electric block heater.
>Many of these little boxes do both 120ac and 12dc!  Wonder how they start 
in
>really cold weather.
>John
>I do rant on about carrying a small gasoline powered generator - if it is

Simpler yet, there are a couple of companies that advertise block heaters 
that run off your diesel tank (seen in LRO mag).  I had a similar setup for 
an auxilliary space heater in a 110 camper.  It ran off the diesel tank and 
would really put out the heat inside the vehicle, without having to start 
the engine.  The block heater version is nearly identical, except it taps 
into the water system in the engine compartment.  Seems a bit simpler than 
carrying a generator...

Rosty
aka John Rostykus - john@data-io.com

------------------------------

From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose)
Subject: Re: muffler location for 109 4 door?
Date: 12 Jul 1994 15:37:25 GMT

In article <9407011551.AA12660@apple.com>,
TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> wrote:
>One of my summer projects is going to be putting a rear petrol tank in the back 
>of my 109 two door.  I have a new tank, a complete set of new fittings, and a 
>filler set up for a 109 heavy duty pickup.  Before I can start fitting the tank 
>I am going to have to get the muffler moved.  Where does the muffler normally 
>sit in 4 door 109s?  

In front of the read axle, inclined upwards, long dimension of the can running
front to back.  The downpipe remains the same, different middle pipe, but
uses the same hanger, and the tail pipe/muffler needs a hanger bracket that
is not there.  Simple bracket that holds two horizontal holes off the frame
(by about an inch) that support the hanger on top of the muffler.  One of 
those rectangular rubber pieces with four holes bolts between the bracket
and the muffler.  If you have a left hand drive, the last hanger at the
back left corner will support the station wagon tail pipe with use of the
correct hanger hardware, which is different than the 2-door hardware.

I think all this may interfere with your pland for a water tank, though!
Other considerations:
1. If you are using a stock 109 station wagon tank, you may have to modify 
the frame.  Station wagons frames, the second to last cross member is 
square, without a PTO hole; it is flat across the bottom.  Your cross  
member has a bulge in the bottom to accommodate the PTO.  On the three
frames that I helped put these tanks in (one was my 109--the guinney pig)
we seperated the bottom plate from the cross member under the PTO hole and
peeled it back, cut the sides straight so that the countour was flat across
the bottom of the entire cross member, then re-attached the bottom piece.
Ther was a little excess bottom plate left over, which was cut off, as the
bottom no longer went down and around the PTO hole.  The PTO hole now 
looks like a "D" on its back.  The bottom plate was attached right across
the half-PTO hole, from one side to the other. 
2. Station wagons have two access holes in the bed, which you may want
to add. One is larger, over the sending unit and hose clamp for the vent
hose.  The smaller cover is over the second vent pipe.  I forget which,
but one access has two vent pipes, the other one.  Two of these vents are
connected together, so that the two sections of tank extending up along
each side of the second to last cross member are connected, the other vent 
goes to the filler.  The hose connecting the tank halves is attached after
the tank goes in, as the hose goes over the cross member.  This makes those
access holes pretty essential.  This may all be moot if tank design has 
changed, or you're not using a stock tank.

Hope you have an example of a 109 station wagon near by, it really helps
to have a pattern.  Also, the sending unit helps.  Those back tanks are
bigger, and its nice to know: how much is left, and, as your engine
sputters, you can glance at that guage and see that the tank really is
out of gas.

Randy

------------------------------

From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose)
Subject: Re: ohhhh theee heattt
Date: 12 Jul 1994 15:46:55 GMT

In article <"Macintosh*/PRMD=MOT/ADMD=MOT/C=US/"@mhs>,
 </G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com> wrote:
>does anyone of you vetran rover goers know of any  remedy to dissipate the heat 
>created by the exhaust under my feet. it has been unbearable the last couple of 
>days since its gotten over 25 degrees. my truck is already topless, althought it 
<snip>
none

Tire-link mats help the fried foot syndrome.  They put some air between the
floor boards and the feet.

With electric guages, I'd first suspect the guage.  Check it with a pocket
temp guage you can get from a parts store or mechanics tool truck.  They
look like a small meat thermometer, metal shaft with a dial guage on top.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 15:28:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: ohhhh theee heattt

Read the Aluminum work horse of simetime last year.  A fellow with the
same problem found that if you use the North American thermostat without
the skirt the flow is not correct for our engines.  I was having the same
problem and after checking the easy stuff like slipping belt, dirty water
jacket, crushed lower hose, timing off, restricted rad with bugs etc. I
changed my thermostat to the skirted type and presto no more problems. 
The article went into quite a bit of technical stuff but basicaly there is
a path for the water that is not used correctly when you have the flat
U.S. type.  I ordered one from a Land Rover dealer and got another flat
type.  Only after ordering from England and telling them what I wanted did
I get the right type.  It is worth a try.  Mine got so hot I would get
vapour lock from under the hood heat.  My floor is cooler now as well. 
Dave VE4PN
X

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 15:35:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Windscreen problems....

Re the gunk on the windshield.  You can try what windshield shops do. 
They use what looks like a gorrot (spelling ?) Anyway it is a piece of
wire with a wooden dowel at each end so you have a wire saw.  One fellow
goes inside and one outside and you slice through the stuff.  It is not
very strong when cut with a wire so you should have no problem separating
it using this method.  When you replace it, use 1" wide foam tape with the
adhesive back on one side and the plastic side on the other.  Because it
gets to -40 F. up here we do this to all the joints between the cab and
the windshield etc. and it works great.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Subject: Re: July LRO 
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 14:02:20 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

Bill,
	There also should be an article in the stateside beat 
section covering the Northwest Challenge we had here in April.
We had a freelance writer sponsered by LRO come over from 
Colorado and ride with Doug Shipman, our local LR guru. The guy
said the article was supposed to be in the July issue, look 
through it and let me know, I haven't gotten mine yet.
					rgds
					Mike Fredette
					mfredett@ichips.intel.com
					72 Ser lll 88
					Portland Oregon

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: waxoyl
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 18:00:35 EDT

> Russell;
> Someone mentioned that Moss Motors in either Goleta or Santa Barbara 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> 75126,1123@compuserve.com
> 72' Series III 88 since new

Hey thanks, Keith.  I called Moss Motors ((805) 968-1041) and they do, in
fact, stock waxoyl.  It is available as a kit (which includes 2L of waxoyl
and a sprayer device) or as refills (lacking the sprayer, naturally).  The
kit goes for $48.95 and I ordered one.

yahoo,
rd/da nige

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 19:35:42 EDT
From: kkurz@torrey.umm.maine.edu
Subject: subscribe

------------------------------

From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 18:05:09 -0500

WPCP
2BVPZ&Courier 10cp  Roland Raven 
D%X@USUS2N#|x
 
              NEW BOOK OUT
 
Land Rover Discovery, The Enthusiasts Companion
 
By James Taylor
 
ISBN 0)947981)79)9
 
Retail in Canada $34.95 plus taxes
 
I just got my copy of this book, a nice hard back piece ofreference 
material. Gives the history behind the Discovery 
and its evolution up till about the end of last year.
 
I really like the book and it will be a good addition to my 
small but ever growing library of material
 
If you are in the Ottawa area then Hobby House on Montreal Road canget 
this one for you, just speak to Terry Jones.
 
Robin Craig
 
 /s

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

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