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1 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu9Re: More LR prices from NZ
2 ludovico.magnocavallo@ga11[not specified]
3 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu21Re: Land Rover World
4 maloney@wings.attmail.co60Ben's Valve Train Problems
5 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo23Re: Galvanized frame
6 David John Place [umplac16Re: Ben's Valve Train Problems
7 "Christopher A. Kantarji11[not specified]
8 Jules@learnlink.emory.ed29Land Rover Advice?
9 Jan Hilborn [jhilborn@mo54Re: Land Rover Advice?
10 Morgan Hannaford [morgan39Howdy all-
11 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs27Re: Howdy all-
12 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs20Re: Galvanized Chassies.
13 James B Russell [jrussel13Re: Howdy all-
14 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs25Re: Howdy all-
15 DAVID DEAN [DEAND@kea.li23Re: Howdy all-
16 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs33Re: Howdy all-
17 David John Place [umplac34Re: Howdy all-
18 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs27Re: Howdy all-
19 LROVER@u.washington.edu 17I suppose I've worn out this request, I'm in search of a
20 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs22I suppose I've worn out this request, I'm in search of a (fwd)
21 mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca28[not specified]
22 mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca31[not specified]
23 dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca22[not specified]
24 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on25[not specified]
25 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on56[not specified]
26 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on31[not specified]


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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: More LR prices from NZ
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 9:27:40 BST

Yoiu mean we werent anyway?
Cheers 
Mike Rooth

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Subject: Land Rover World
From: ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it (Ludovico Magnocavallo)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 12:14:00 +0100

I have received this morning the August (!) issue of Land Rover World.
Great!
I don't know if I'll renew my subscription to Land Rover Owner, after
this (I got LRO May issue two weeks ago...).
Ludovico
ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Land Rover World
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 11:55:28 BST

> I have received this morning the August (!) issue of Land Rover World.
> Great!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Ludovico
> ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it
'm inclined to agree with you,Ludo,although LRW isnt on the newstands
here yet.Cant be much wrong with your postal system.LRO is consistently
late coming out,and to cap it all they are silly enough to publish the
date of the next issue in the current one.Then they dont meet it.I think
I've had stopped taking LRO by now if it hadnt been for the mass of adverts
in it.LRW has yet to build up a large advertising clientele,both trade and
cassified.Come to think of it,its hardly a good reason for taking a magazine
is it,for its ads,rather than its content.Oh well.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 27 Jun 94 23:52:09 GMT
Subject: Ben's Valve Train Problems

Ben wrote:

none
  The #6 push rod was bent at about a 30 degree angle.....and the #6 valve had 
been sucked.  Of coarse this happened just after I got into the San Jaucin 
Valley and this was farm country. The short of it is I biked 8 miles to the 
nearest town (a gas station, a country store and a mexican restaraunt) (called 
Old River).  After a few hours of waiting and phone calls I got in touch with 
a friend.  He drove up.  In the light of a street lamp I pulled the head.  
When he arrived we towed the Rover to that gas station (I knew that 1 inch 
line would come in handy) and drove back to Los Angeles.  The happy part of 
the story is that there are no marks on the piston from the valve hitting it 
and the rocker arm/push rod mating surface has no visible or feelable marks!!! 
 The valve itself (an intake) is stuck down, but some gentle taps with a 
hammer and a block of wood will move it.  So taking the valve out shouldn't be 
too bad (famous last words). it looks to me that Rover designed the engine so 
that sucked valves would not damage the pistons.  This way, you could pull the 
spark plug and pushrods and drive on the other 3 cylinders.  This is an 
important thing to remember if your Rover dies in the middle of nowhere. 

Ben, 

I'm really sorry to hear this news, especially right after having the head 
done.  I'll assume that the shop did the job right and venture a couple of 
possible answers:

1.  My first thought was that there is a problem with the lifter (tappet) 
assembly, but that wouldn't explain why the valve stuck in the open position. 
Use a set of long needle nose pliers or hemostats and check to see that the 
lifter slides up and down and that the roller is where it is supposed to be

2.  Did you check the valve spring?  Sometimes if the inner or outer is broken 
it can cause the other spring to bind, holding the valve open.  At the very 
least, change the spring as well

3.  Lubrication.  Is the oil making it up to your rocker assembly (probably)? 
 If so is the spray hole in the rocker of the affected valve clear?  Is the 
rocker to valve stem surface smooth or worn to the shape of the valve stem?  
If the rocker end is worn it can put undue lateral stress on the valve itselfg 
possibly causing it to bind in the guide (and causing the guides to wear in an 
oval fashion).  

For this to happen with an intake valve is unusual in that the "negative" 
pressure in the intake manifold tends to draw oil into the valve guide

Good luck and let me know when you make it back.

Bill Maloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

201-564-2073 W
201-835-1796 H
	

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Galvanized frame
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 13:09:00 UNDEFINED

>I had a thought about the frames rusting from the inside out.

WAXOYL!!!!!! Spray the whole chassis outside, and inject all the tubes inside. 
Redo the outside every year (just a quick spray over will do) and carry a hand 
sprayer from your local garden centre (full of Waxoyl diluted with 
deisel) around with you whenever you do anything to the vehicle - just spray 
any rust you see.

Redo the inside every 5 years (more from paranoia than anything else)
Frame'll be an archeological relic for future millennia.

Stuff sprays directly onto existing rust - only a cursory brush is needed 
first.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 14:33:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Ben's Valve Train Problems

Ref your valve problems.  Had the same thing happen just after a valve job
I did and it turned out that the round vavle lifter was not actually
round.  When I set the valves I was on the good part of the lifter.  After
it rotated a few times the lifter rod hit the low spot and the adjustment
went out.  It started with just a clicking and then it the rod came out
from under the rocker.  Like you the valve was tight in the guide after it
came out but I was lucky and didn't bend the rod.  I did however put in
all new sifters and changed the one rod just in case.  I put it on class
to test it and it was ok but didn't want to take a chance on it happening
again.  I have about 3000 miles on it sence the probelm and it works fine.
now.  Dave VE4PN

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Subject: mechanic in SF Bay Area?
Date: 	Mon, 27 Jun 1994 12:40:00 PDT
From: "Christopher A. Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>

I've dropped off the list, so please reply to me by mail. I have a
friend with a Range Rover that is about to need it's 40K service. She's
looking for a trustworthy mechanic in the San Francisco Bay Area; the
usual suspect is San Jose British, but she had terrible service from
them in the past when she owned a Jag.

If you're out here and trust someone, please pass their name along to me. Thanks.

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From: Jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 17:14:56 EST
Subject: Land Rover Advice?

Greetings Land Rover folks,
     I am interested in purchasing a Land Rover and I need some advice on
one that I have found locally.  I really want to know how much I should
spend and what I should expect out of these critters.  I have never driven
one, so I am kind of running on air, since I don't know anyone here with
one.  The vehicle I'm looking at is a 1964 Series IIA SW.  It still has the
stock 2.2 petrol engine, but with a Rochester carb, which I have never
heard of.  The wiring from the fusebox and engine compartment has been
burned out by a fire when a fuel hose became disattached and caught from
the manifold, but the thing was running before that.  Most of the body is
straight, but there is relatively bad rust on both frame and firewall.  I'm
not sure how complete this is, as the frame still appears rather solid,
despite the rust.  What I'd like to know is what you would expect to pay
for a vehicle like this in your area.  I am in the SE United States, so if
you know American $ figures, it would be appreciated.
     As an aside, what speed do older Land Rovers comfortably travel on a
highway?  I've heard that they're slow, but exactly how slow?  What does it
cost to get a winch and a soft top for one?

/========/     Sean Murphy, LearnLink Administrator
 !! !! !!      Internet/Telnet: Jules@learnlink.emory.edu
 !! !! !!      Phone: (404)/727-2259
/========/     For information, mail Info@learnlink.emory.edu

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 18:30:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jan Hilborn <jhilborn@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Advice?

 Sean,
  I'll send a general message now but I certainly hope others on LRO send 
you more detailed replies.
  The '64 88" is a nice beast in my book. Without seeing the frame and 
firewall it's hard for me to judge but those are two things that in good 
shape can jump the price of a truck up up up. Doesn't sound like this one 
is in the pricey range so initially that is good for your checkbook. 
Firewalls are getting harder and harder to come by and are inconvenient 
to repair. Frames can go from not that bad to worthless with surprising 
speed if ignored. Try banging on that frame in a variety of accessable 
places with a small hammer or like object and look for punky spots. My 
frame was patched for years and years until i finally broke down 
(figurativly and nearly literally) and got a new galvanized one last summer.
  You don't say was the interior and exterior are like but of course that 
can run the price up.
  DO you know the person you are buying it from or can you get some sort 
of warrenty that if you replace the wiring harness and the thing runs 
like a sick puppy you can get a refund? I've bought land rovers without 
driving them but it is risky.
  The standard carb is a weber but plenty of folks like the rochester... 
generally there's a bit more power (at the expense of gas milage of course).
  soft tops (new and used, genuine and otherwise) are pretty available 
and real nice to have. I get my stuff from Rovers North up here in 
Vermont but there are lots of Land Rover parts suppliers.
 
 Price. That's tricky. With an iffy frame and firewall and in need of a 
new wiring harness (and personally i would replace the whole wiring 
harness because Lucas electrical systems are screwy enough without 
patching up a burned out one) i would put this 64 under $2k even if it 
looks beautiful and is promised to run like new. I would think, 
approached properly (looking doubtful and possibly disinterested in ALL! 
the work this rover could be) you might be able to get it well under $1000.
 
 as for driving a rover. I've been driving land rovers for 15 years now; 
many many miles over all kinds of roads. I am always impressed with a 
well maintained rover's reliability. With an overdrive you can cruise on 
flats at 70mph altho i personally don't; hills and headwinds take a heavy 
toll since it's underpowered and as aerodynamic as a brick. Without an 
overdrive i very seldom go about 55.
  the most important thing to remember is that this is a 30 year old 
vehicle that even new was not state of the art luxury-wise. It will 
always drive like a truck: rough, stiff, noisy.
 on the otherhand... it will always drive. and it will look cool doing it.
 
 p.s. one last note: land rovers, despite all the out of africa stuff are 
hot to drive inthe summer and cool in the winter... something to consider 
if you live down south.
  
  jan 

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From: Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU>
Subject: Howdy all-
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 15:59:04 -0700 (PDT)

I just came aboard the line here and wanted to say hello-

I own a 1969 IIA 88" - It does have a Scotty's chevy conversion to 
a 250cu. straight six (sorry to the purists).  However, this is 
my only vehicle, and I drive extensively
 throughout Northern California in the 
summer months.  It has never broken down, but if it does I know every rural
junkyard can fix me up.  My rig is used to explore logging roads and
forest service roads in the coast range, where I am doing research on
coast range streams (for a degree at U.C. Berkeley).  I'm pleased
to say that the odometer just turned over (100,000 mi) for the first
time, so this car is still a pup.

Regarding all the talk on Rochester carbs, the one I had kept spewing
gas out the front O-ring making for erratic throttling. No local shops
in Berkeley would rebuild this part.  
  I dumped it for a Holley, which works great.

A friend of mine in Northern California has what he thinks is a 
1956 series I SWB (sitting in the garage).
  It has a Perkins diesel in it??  Did Land
Rover put these in or is it an after market jobber?
Anyway, the aluminum head on the motor has corrosion damage
and blows thick clouds of blue smoke.  Is it possible to find
parts for these motors (i.e. head); I know Perkins is a big company.
 Or would it be more economical to just pop in another Rover engine
 (diesel or petrol)?  

If you have any opinion on the series I I'd love to hear (read?).

Morgan H.  
Berkeley, CA.
'69 IIA SWB

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Howdy all-
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 9:16:08 EST

> I just came aboard the line here and wanted to say hello-
> I own a 1969 IIA 88" - It does have a Scotty's chevy conversion to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
> Berkeley, CA.
> '69 IIA SWB

Hello Morgan,
                I am just finishing putting a 2.25l desiel in my 1955
series 1, and I am hoping that it will work well, I know of people thta have
put the 2.25 petrol into series 1's, and they are good little units.
If you can find and original 2 litre F head motor, I don't know how easy 
they are to find in the states, then put that in, but have it balanced
first, as it is just a matter of putting it back to original specs.
If you are going to put the 2.25 l petrol or desiel in, you have to use
a series II or IIA bell housing, as the stud patterns are different, and
you should also use an air cleaner of the same model, as a 2.25l with
a series 1 air cleaner will be strangled for air.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au 

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Galvanized Chassies.
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 9:30:42 EST

Howdy all,
                Just a couple of points my brother brought up about
galvanizing chassies on a Land Rover.

        The only Land Rover chassie that you should galvanize is a 
new Land Rover chassie, as the chassie is painted inside, and out.
So when dipped in acid, to remove the paint and so forth from the
out side of the chassie, the paint on the inside, cracks, and the
chassie will now start to rust from the inside out.  So beware.
To maintain the chassie, just keep it clean.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au 

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 17:21:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: James B Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Howdy all-

About the Perkins, I could be all wrong on this but...

I seem to recal hearing that the block for the Perkins was the same as 
the Rover diesel.  I think they are a fairly popular marine engine so it 
is likely that parts, tech data, and service are commonly available.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Howdy all- 
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 10:36:16 EST

> About the Perkins, I could be all wrong on this but...
> I seem to recal hearing that the block for the Perkins was the same as 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>                   Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
>                          (Seattle -- San Francisco)            
Where did you here that!!!!!!
All Land Rover 4 cylinders after the series 1 were derived from the 2l
desiel, The 2.25 petrol and desiel, are basically the same motor, with
a different head, pistons, and injector pump instead of the distributor,
inlet manifold, and the crank is made out of forged steel, instead of
cast iron.  Infact, in England a lot of places acutally convert petrol
2.25 motors to desiel, and is a common practise to check the crank is 
stamped with a 'D' instead of a 'P'.  So if that is the case, then
it would be the same as the 2.25 petrol, and almost the same as a
TDi block.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au 

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Date: 28 Jun 1994 13:01:22 +1200
From: DAVID DEAN <DEAND@kea.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Howdy all-

>From:           Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
<snip snip>

>All Land Rover 4 cylinders after the series 1 were derived from the 2l
>desiel, The 2.25 petrol and desiel, are basically the same motor, with
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>it would be the same as the 2.25 petrol, and almost the same as a
>TDi block.

This conversion from Petrol to Diesel sounds VERY interesting.  Does 
anyone have any info on suppliers or sources for such kits or parts?
Also, has anyone in Australia/New Zealand heard of such a conversion?

Cheers,

------- (David L. Dean - Department of Economics & Marketing) -------
----------- (Lincoln University, Canterbury, New Zealand) -----------
--- ("sober fearless pursuit of truth, beauty, & righteousness") ----

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Howdy all-
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 11:21:01 EST

> >From:           Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
> <snip snip>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> ----------- (Lincoln University, Canterbury, New Zealand) -----------
> --- ("sober fearless pursuit of truth, beauty, & righteousness") ----

It is not a conversion, you just replace the crank, pistons, head, and
manifolds, and the distributor pump, replaces the distributor, and
hey presto, you have a desiel 2.25.  Also, just remembered, that you
have to replace the fly wheel, as the desiel one is twice as heavy,
and the flywheel housing, and starter motor, as the desiel has
about 3 times the compression of the petrol, 23:1 to be precise.

        The hardest part about this conversion, is getting the bits
to do it, and it will cost a lot too, a distributor pump alone, can cost
upwards of $1000 australian, then you have to injectors, and head and so
forth.

        Just have a look at a work shop manual, and you will probably find
that the block for both of the 4 cylinders have the same part number.

P.S. Does anyone have a Rover Desiel Badge they are willing to sell for
a reasonable price???

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au 

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 20:20:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Howdy all- 

That was interesting info on the crank for the 2.25.  I had a bad score on
my petrol crank, so when I rebuilt the petrol I put my diesel one in its
place.  It doesn't seem to make any difference to how it runs.  I have all
the specs up to factory as far as bearing fits etc and I run about 60 lbs
of pressure etc.  Was there something different about the weight or some
other problem with the swap.  I seem to recall using different size
bearings however on mine or my buddies one when we did the three way swap.
Something I found was that to change the head from one series to another,
I had to use a different front cover because the thermostat housing is
deeper on one than the other.  I had so many parts on the floor at one
time or another I don't really know what series ended up in the vehicle,
but I made one great engine out of three and it seems to be doing a good
job for me.  One thing I was going to do and decided not to was use the
very heaby bull nose pully from the diesel.  It seemed to suck to much
poser out of the engine to turn it so I went with the lighter petrol one
and it is working OK.  For the guys getting into this hobby, the problems
or lack of them really at fitting just about any year part to your vehicle
is certainly a plus.  With hard to find vehicles like ours, it is nice to
think a door wiil fit over a thirty year period or in my case an engine
from over a twenty year period and from diesel to petrol.  One other
question.  I have a good diesel block here.  It seems to be a petrol block
with sleeves in it to reduce the diameter of the cyl.  If I push the
sleeves out will I have a petrol block, after cleaning the wall etc.  Just
a thought.  Dave VE4PN

By the way for the fellow asking about the 64 S II for sale.  Mine is a 64
SWB that had a rod through the block.  The body was OK but needed care.  I
paid $500 Canadian for it and with new paint motor, trans etc. I guess it
would fetch $5000 now.  

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Howdy all-  
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 11:43:23 EST

> That was interesting info on the crank for the 2.25.  I had a bad score on
> my petrol crank, so when I rebuilt the petrol I put my diesel one in its
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
> paid $500 Canadian for it and with new paint motor, trans etc. I guess it
> would fetch $5000 now.  

A couple of things,

1. What is a bull nose pully, do you mean the pully on the crank shaft for
the fan belt.

2. The only difference between the cranks on the petrol and desiel is that
because the desiel one is forged steel, it is a lot stronger, therefore
heavier.  A petrol crank in a desiel motor will last long enough for
the warrenty on the motor to run out.

3. As for sleeves in the motor, I though that all 2.25's were sleeved.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                            2.25 desiel (Soon!)

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Date: Mon, 27 Jun 1994 23:32:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: LROVER@u.washington.edu
Subject: I suppose I've worn out this request, I'm in search of a

Looking High and Low for a LR in the US that is a RHD. That someone will
trade me. Give me a shout if there is a fellow LR owner who'll swap me
my '73-SIII 88 SW valued at 8500 us. For RHD LR My first choice would
be a SII 88 or 109 SW. Regresing from there. Or another option would be,
can anyone trade/sell me RHD parts for a SII/Defender an will Defender 
RHD parts work? Please all give me some help. I will be soon posting
a list of all my available spares.
Sincerely,
Benjamin J. Freeman
'73-SIII 88
(206)365-3514 HM#
(206)623-5460 WK#

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: I suppose I've worn out this request, I'm in search of a (fwd)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 94 16:47:40 EST

> Looking High and Low for a LR in the US that is a RHD. That someone will
> trade me. Give me a shout if there is a fellow LR owner who'll swap me
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> '73-SIII 88
> (206)365-3514 HM#
> (206)623-5460 WK#
What do you mean by a RHD High and Low, I think you are talking about
the high and low lever, Rover never made any right or left high low
levers, they were just set up for right hand drive, form the start.
They just moved things like the steering wheel, and the hand brake, and
you can normally see where these things are meant to go on the other side
of the vehicle.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                            2.25 desiel (Soon!)

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Subject: Land Rover Sign.
From: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Michel Bertrand)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 22:15:20 -0500

Well, hello everyone! Just got home from a great Rover shopping day. 
Went to Rover's North and bought a whole bunch of goodies (they have 
great specials on) and a also bought a rare find in a Montreal british 
parts place. I bought a genuine Land Rover dealer sign! It's oval, about 
3 feet by 3 feet and Yellow with the grees Land Rover letters. It used to 
be one of my rovers dealer in the Eastern Townships in Quebec!

        I'm thinking of installing it on the ceiling in my bedroom right 
over my bed. Hmmmm, I wonder what my girlfriend will say.

        I also missed a brand new diesel 2.25 engine (still in crate) for 
100$. Rats!

        Tomorrow, I'll try to get that stubborn boly out, if the weather 
permits it. 

BTW, how much do you think is the sign worth?

Michel Bertrand and Rudolph, 1963 109, Ottawa

--
Michel Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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Subject: Isolated Ground Return
From: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Michel Bertrand)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 22:03:56 -0500

On Rudolph's rebuild, I had a ground wire going to the back, another one 
going to the front and a last one going to the instruments. I believe, 
like others, in theory, that it will help reduce the corrosion problem 
but most certainly improve the efficiency of the electrical wire. 
        However, I don't think that you can completely isolate the 
chassis and body from grounding. The engine block must be grounded and it 
is bolted directly to the frame. All the lights have their casing 
touching the body panels, and their casings are grounded and the 
instruments casings, which are grounded, also touch the dash panels. 

        I don't want to be a pessimist, so here is my positive note: 
Knowing the quality of the Lucas grounding systems and the age of the 
lights casings, it is mostly possible that with a isolated setup like I 
have will ground the frame and body panels, BUT not as much as if it was 
directly grounded, thus reducing the corrosion. 

        I have absolutely no electrical knowledge. (I'm a law student) 
and I could be wrong. Remember, I'm the one who's Rover caught fire a few 
weeks ago...

Michel Bertrand, Ottawa, with Rudolph (which kept his name after all, 
thanks for all the nice suggestions)

--
Michel Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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Subject: foam
From: dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Dale Desprey)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 14:57:21 -0500

Robin had said something about foam.  The joke goes something like this;  
"Foam frame repair;  Waterproof, easy to install, just injest and sculpt, 
stronger than steel".  An example of cheesy things that people sometimes 
do.  Oops, that should be inject, not injest,  that would be fatal :-(.
I have seen some sar resellers doing some things, that while not illegal, 
just make me wince.

Speaking of wierd things in frames, found a piece of concrete? in my 
frame, back of left frame rail.  Suspect this was a factory option, as 
there is no conceivable way it could have gotten in there after 
construction.  Anyone else seen one of these?

Dale

--
Dale Desprey, dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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Subject: Re: Leaking Rochester
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 08:47:19 -0500

Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> writes:

> And to add to the confusion, I have had nothing but trouble with the
> Weber.....
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> is better than your carb" thing....I'm thinking on developing a throttle
> body injection set up for the 2.25....anyone interested in this idea?  

        Sounds a bit like a problem Dale had.  Not all Webers are alike.
        Some are made with an imperfection in the barrel that makes them
        a pain to adjust.  Dale sent his back for a replacement.  Beyond
        that, Weber is the replacement of choice up here on the warm tundra.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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Subject: RE: Galvanized frame
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 08:52:33 -0500

Keith Steele <75126.1123@CompuServe.COM> writes:

> Has anybody here replaced their old frame with one of the new galvanized
> ones (frame over)?

        Have seen good frames galvinised, though never see one sent over
        from the UK...

> I am considering having it done to my Series III 88.  I have a couple of
> questions.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> not counting parts what was the approximate cost.  If you did it yourself
> how long did it take and what if any special tools were required.

        The several LR's in OVLR that have been done had the process done
        in Montreal.  Very few places are about that can handle a Land
        Rover frame (size).  The place in Montreal generally does hydro
        towers.  The problem with this is that they are used to big
        pieces of steel that are pretty rugged.  Land Rover frames, while
        strong, are not as rugged as a hydro tower.  Several frames were
        damaged in the process.

        The second point on having your frame galvinised is that the process
        is going to fill up a lot of bolt holes, or at least narrow them
        down.  Expect to spend significant time drilling them out.

> 2.  How well does the galvanized frame stand up to rust?  It snows where
> I live (just south of Cincinnati OH) and they salt the roads heavily.

        Stands up quite well on the couple I have seen...

> 3.  Any general advise about frame overs in general would be appreciated.

       Replace lots of parts.  This is your chance...

> As the rover has been living in snow country for only three years the 
> original frame is just starting to rust.  Any suggestions concerning how
> to prevent or slow down rust on the current frame while I save up for
> a possible frame over?

        Oil it throughly.  OVLR has a frame oiler party every fall where
        you can spray as much gunk on it as you want. With a job that drips
        into February they do not rust that much...

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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Subject: RE: Canadian CRAZY CLAY
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 27 Jun 94 08:43:21 -0500

Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> writes:

>    OH right you are!!!! except that the noise started before I crossed the
> border.....I went to adjust the brakes,and the front adjusters would turn
> all the way around....ooooooooooo......(cobblers childern and all that...)

        Mine are in fine shape too, as well as others.  Next time we will
        have to see how to wash them out.  Dave Lowe & Tom "Mud Magnet"
        Toleffson went through another pond (see Russell's message) which
        cleaned out their system.

> WELL it was happy,but YOU saw it....could it ever be nice?????

        Could be, depends on how you define nice... :-)

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        Now to get toghter the details on the Calabogie Power cut/Flower
        Station road run on August 20/21.  (No, not like the B-day
        party, we actually have to cover some distance on this one...)

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

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