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From: "Keith Coman" <BAKC@giraffe.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Sat, 25 Jun 1994 09:56:32 GMT+0200
Subject:       Re: Howzit to all Landie Owners?!

> > of a '59 Rover 100.   The latter has a higher ratio: initial pull off
> > is slower but open road top end is more relaxed and petrol consumption
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> the two differential ratios are now ...err...different(!) which means 
> appalling transmission wind-up, broken shafts etc, etc?

    Thought of that!  Nope -- seems to make no practical difference.  
Off-road out here is generally very loose dry sand so all 4 wheels 
are going at different speeds anyway.  Another consideration is that
the transfer box on my unit is just about short of totally buggered.  
Back in its Rhodesian days a rear half shaft went and the owner 
couldn't afford or obtain a new one for a while -- basically ran it
off the front diff for a over a year in 4x4 mode: the low ratio 
transfer gear looks like dog's wet coat!  I run it with the free-wheel
hubs "on" except when the going's really bad, then a quick burst of 
4x4 only when absolutely necessary....  compromises 'o life I guess!
Cheers,
Keith Coman * Dept of Management, Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 

------------------------------

From: "Keith Coman" <BAKC@giraffe.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Sat, 25 Jun 1994 10:16:09 GMT+0200
Subject:       Re: stubborn spring bolt...

> Well, hello everyone, I have a technical problem. I was working on my 109 
> SW ex-NADA, (Rudolph's cousin) doing a complete rebuild today (frame was 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Any ideas, suggestions, anybody....please...Thanks in advance, I'll keep 
> in touch with you guys for the rest of the rebuild....

    My sympathies -- yep this job's a real bugger.  LR spring 
overhauls involve very little finesse in my experience.  Try this: 
Soak the works in penetrating oil -- give a good spray and leave over 
night.  Take your socket and tommy-bar -- apply to nut.  Then take a 
3 foot length of iron pipe and slip over the tommy-bar: HEAVE!!!  
    You basically need all the leverage you can get -- a nice long 
power-bar on the end of the socket plus a coupla developed biceps!
    Once the nut's off, drifting out bolt can also involve a bit of 
fun and games -- as can trying to knock out the old shackle bushes!!
Good luck!
Keith Coman * Dept of Management, Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa *
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jun 94 08:31:20 MDT
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: Spring Bolts

Michel Has a Stuck Bolt.

This is how I got the bolts,plates and bushes off
and out of my new/old frame for my 62. It isn't
easy and not pretty.

All of the bolts in the spring and shackle combos
were rusted solid.  Only two of the nuts would even
turn off.  I tried the wd-40 soak and heat and pressure
to no avail.  I then took a machinist hacksaw blade.
This is a fine tooth,thin blade saw and started cutting.
The nuts that would not turn off got cut first.  This
was in the vain hope that then the bolt might just come out.
Two came out this way but the others held firm.  So the 
remaining two got their heads cut off.  This left me
with two bolts still in.  I forgot to mention that the bolts
in the hangers came off fine, it was the bolkts in the bushings
that gave trouble.  So with all of this cutting and stuff
I was finally able to get two more bolts out.  So I was left
with cut off bolts in the frame bushes.  This is the part
that you need to take slow.  Get a propane torch and very
slowly start heating up the rubber in the bush.  It will
start to burn and melt.  Using some sort of bar or pipe,
knock out the inner sleeve and bolt when the rubber is good 
and soft.  Do it slow just to make sure that you don't
overheat the frame.  Then what you have left is the outer 
sleeve of the frame bush in the frame.  Next thing is to take 
the same fine hack saw and cut through the sleeve but be
careful not to cut the frame sleeve.  The about a 1/4 inch from
the first cut do one more.  This is a slow process but it works.
You need to be very careful and take it slow.  After doing my
frame all around, I had to remove one again and it took me about
45 minutes.  After you get the two cuts made take a diamond point
fine chisel and at the edge of the sleeve very carefully pry up
the 1/4 piece between your cuts.  Once this is up take a med.
diamond point and start rolling up the piece.  It is frustrating
but does work.  

This may not be very well explained but I can't do pictures on
this term connect.  I beleive there is a line drawing of the 
procedure in the Haynes book.

Roy - Frame on the Wall waiting to sit under my 62, IIA 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jun 1994 09:54:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: James B Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Galvanized frame

Another good point to check with regard to the frame are those little
rubber or plastic plugs in the rear crossmember.  If they are still in
there they should probably be removed.  Besides, they make a good place to
spray in all kinds of good stuff that will hopefully prevent rust. 

LPS 3 is interesting stuff (and is popular for use in protecting seaplanes
used in salt water).  Spraying this stuff into the frame is probably a
good idea.  Maybe after a good dose of WD40 or LPS 2.  It forms a waxy
coating that is long lasting and not quickly washed away. 

The unfortunate part about rust from the inside is that once it starts 
there is no permanent remedy.  All you can do try to clean out the mud 
and salt with a pressure washer and then spray in as much oil as you can 
in the hope of forestalling the inevitable.

On the outside, as has been mentioned, paint is good.  Very good.  Even
better if you can get rid of any existing rust and clean it down to bare
metal.  So are rust preventing primers. 

If you do all of this regularly you may find the frame will last much
longer than you would have expected.  I wrote my frame off nearly 18 years
ago but it is still there.  To be sure, it is due for some serious work or
replacement but, who knows, maybe I can get another few years out of it.  
Besides, a frame over is tough to do so I can have it done in time to 
drive to work Monday morning.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Subject: On the Road, finally
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 1994 10:21:40 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>

	Well, I'm finally about to hit the road.   Almost two weeks
ago I got delayed because my father had major eye surgury (detached and
torn retinas) on both eyes and I had to stick around and take care of
him (he's recovering well and the doctor released him for travel last
thursday (the 23rd)) and my head needed to be rebuilt.
	I had been getting ready to go when I discovered tarry gunk on
the exhaust valve spring on the number one cylinder.  So I did a compression
check and found the pressures to be (in psi)  45,110,160,160.  So I drove
the 70 miles to my aunt's house and pulled the head.  the #1 and #2 cylinder
exhaust valve guides were noticable oval, the same cylinders vavle seats were
pounded to heck and the edges of the vavles had been rolled back a bit.  I
had thought that the head had been converted to hardened seats, but that 
fallicy was revealed 30,000 miles after converting to unleaded.
	So parted were ordered and I had a shop in Mission Veijo, California
(RPM Unlimited, Inc) put in 8 new valve guides, hardened seats and regrind
the valves.  I got the head back thursday night and droped it in.
	Since I don't have a definite deadline, my route east isn't all that
definite.  First I'm headed up the I-5 from LA to Seattle.  I hope to reach
Seattle sunday evening.  I'll be in Seattle visiting friend for a day or 
two and then head east.  I think I'll try to stay off the Interestates.  
Maybe I'll take US route 2 from Seattle to the end of Michicgan's upper
penninsula, from there I'll decide whether to drive though Canada, or 
swing down below the the remainder of the great lakes.   Depending upon
how long this thing takes, maybe I'll show up at the Owl's Head rally.
	I'll be driving in a well laden blue SIII 88.  If you see a Rover
with too much in the roof rack and a "Blacker Armored Division" sign over
the driver's door, that's me.  Give a honk and I'll pull over and chat.

-Benjamin Smith
 ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jun 94 11:56:36 MDT
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: Positive Earth and Frame Rust

This is an issue that comes up from time to time.
Since I have dealt with the issues of battery 
ground via the telephone industry I have evolved
the following theory.  

The Rover uses the steel box frame as the ground 
return for the lights,starter and instruments: ok
everything electrical.  The frame has, at all times,
a 12 volt potential sitting in it.  The telephone
industry isolates all ground from any structures
or equipment.  Then any equipment requiring ground
is connected individually.  I guess the short version
is that all battery and ground is connected only where
it belongs.

So for my Rover my thought is that the frame is eliminated
as the ground return.  So that only the electrical
components that require battery/ground get it.  So that 
the frame no longer will have any electrical potential
in it.  Now I admit that this may not prevent much rust
but it seems a good way to start a corosion control
effort.  It also my increase the effeciency of the over-
all stock electrical system.  

That is the general theory.  When I replace the frame under
the 62, it will get a protected ground return.  Then I
might be able to tell if there will be any practical effect.

Roy - Just sick reading those Rover Prices from NZ but
      still in the Big Sky Country on the Rocky Mountain Front. 

------------------------------

From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 94 14:56:54 -0500

To all you experts out there:-

A while ago I asked for help up loading material from word perfect into 
the system.

I asked of easy to understand info on how to do this. I AM NOT A COMPUTER 
EXPERT OR KNOWLEDGEABLE. I have had a few comments from various quarters 
about my up loading that I am doing. Everyone is making comments but NO 
ONE is offerring idiot steps for someone like myself to follow.

We must all remember that we ALL can be our own worst enemies on this 
system when we take shots at others for the way they do things withoout 
offering them a solution.

Please be aware as a Land Rover lover first and computer user for 
convenenience that I do not have all the skills and experince as those of 
you who work in computers for a living etc etc.

We will alienate people quickly if all we are able to do is to whine 
about people low standard of operation.

Ok, i have made some errors when putting stuff to the system, but dont 
critcise me without giving me an alternative method as an option.

This makes people feel really unwelcome.

Now that i have got that of my chest a couple of notes:-

I would like to thank our Italian friend Ludo publicly for his help on a 
little project I have [D, a real gentleman to deal with!

It was good to see brad Blevins on the system again, I love his magazine 
and hope that those of you who have not seen the Alumnium Workhorse will 
e mail him for more info, nice guy, great stuff.

Somebody was asking about expanded foam in the frames......

Ask Dale all about that stuff!! "Stronger than metal" was his comments!

Must run

Robin Craig, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Subject: models
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 94 17:52:08 -0500

The July '94 issue of Military In Scale magazine has a good article on 1 
tonne Land Rovers.

This is a model making related magazine out of the UK and retails for 
USD$4.00 or CAND$5.95 in most good Hobby shops. This is a realtively new 
magazine which I really like. They try to link model article where 
possible to the real thing. As a photojournalist Bob Morrison of LRO fame 
is back to his roots here providing the pictures to hightlight and focus 
on a new model release or add on aftermarket kit. 

Time Neate a well known British 1/76 scale (cramped storage space forces 
alot of Brits to model in this scale ) model maker has done a good look 
at the 1 tonne Forward control Land Rover.

Covering six pages with six sets of differrrent vehcile drawings and 
twelve pictures, some of which are colour this is a great reference to 
put away for later on for any Land Rover enthusiast.

Sadly the 1 tonne is only available in the smaller scales 1/76 1/48 and 
has yet to come out in 1/35 or bigger such as the braille scale 1/24!

I have plans for a 1 tonne and have half completed it among my in the 
works collection of models on the bench.

This magazine has done a number of artciles on Land Rovers and is well 
off having Bob M on staff as he really adds some great pictures to bring 
out the unique ness of the each vehcile he covers.

If anyone woud like any more info just drop me a message and I'll get 
back to you.

Rgds

Robin Craig

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 94 23:41:38 EDT
Subject: Re[3]: More LR prices from NZ

> > Stop it! You're making us crazy.

> Makes me want to cry!

Makes me want to fly to buy

Spenny

Spencer K. C. Norcross                                Spenny@aol.com
Haverhill, Mass. USA
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===
1969 IIA SWB Bugeye - The Wayback Machine

Land Rovers on the Information Superhighway!
What will they think of next!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jun 1994 23:42:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Positive Earth and Frame Rust

Can you tell us more about the protected ground system.  I worked for
Northern Telecom putting in x bar and multi-plex etc, and I remember we
used a common copper bus bar on some frames, but those bus bars were also
screwed to the frame so they were part of the whole ground system.  Ground
loops were a problem from time to time on the radio equipment and we ended
up running a separate ground line.  Is this how you propose to solve the
problem, buy installing a copper ground bus off the battery lead and then
running all ground leads to that bus?
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jun 1994 23:45:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Positive Earth and Frame Rust

I forgot to ask what you thought of the sacrificial anode idea for the
Land Rover.  They are available at any boat shop.  Do you think they would
help a bit.  Using alumininun and then using steel frames and bolts is
asking for trouble if you add salt from the road plus run a 12 volt
potential through the whole mess.  It is a wonder the frames don't rust
out quicker.  I have noticed lots of corrosion on the bolts in the body
panal areas under the wings etc.  I suspect this is the problem.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

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