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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 94 09:06:28 BST
From: Peter Azlan <pa@gx2.uk.mdis.com>
Subject: unsubscribe.

Please unsubscribe me from this list, it will take me longer than I thought
to get the old rover on the road, and I cant keep up with the excellent 
mail for the timebeing.

unsubscribe

Regards

Peter Aslan aka Captain Norton.

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 13 Jun 94 23:56:13 GMT
Subject: Clutch Woes

Russ responded to someone:
 
none
snipsnip
 your foot on the clutch at stoplights, etc.).  Anyway, I have not
> (yet) measured the length of this pushrod (lame, I know...I was 
> *just* there a week ago, it was in my hands) nor of those on our
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> throw-out collar and the casing with the cross shaft in the appropriate
> position and it was exactly the requied 11 mm.).
Then again, there is always the possibility that my flywheel has
been resurfaced one (or three) times too many.....someone out there
in LRnetland suggested this to me awhile ago, and the concept evaporated
from my brain when I wrote the above........it recondensed when I
read it, though.

Clutch sure feels nice, nowadaze.  Time to tow the manure spreader
up a steep hill fully loaded in low-low 3rd gear.

funfun,
rd/nigel
> (yet) measured the length of this pushrod (lame, I know...I was 

A couple of other possiblilities:

If the clutch master cylinder has been replaced recently, the master cylinder 
pushrod may not be adjusted for full travel.  The outer locknut should be 
almost to the end of the pushrod.  Unfortunately, the only way to check this 
is to remove the wing or remove the mudshield, disconnect the master cylinder 
brake line, and remove the clutch master cylinder/pedal assembly complete. 
Next, undo the inspection plate at the top of the assembly (be sure to 
lubricate all pivot points at this stage because it's the only time you can ge 
at them).  A friend had stopped by last summer with a disfunctional clutch and 
after checking everything else out we found this to be the problem (he had 
someone else replace the clutch master cylinder).

As for engine heat affecting clutch operation, a swelling flex line is the 
best guess, a not so close second might be that the seals in the clutch master 
are just bad enough that when hot they allow the fluid to seep by.

Good luck!
Bill
maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 14 Jun 94 00:12:39 GMT
Subject: Gas Cans

Russel Burns wrote in response to John:

none
John,
I also have a 91 RR and am looking for a way to carry extra gas. I have
seen second gas tanks. bur am somewhat wary of all the extra plumbing.
My latest thought is to install a real rear bumper and carring a couple
of jerry cans there. I wm willing to put up with the tailgate interference.
The last trip I put a 6 gallon marine gas tank on the roof rack. It only
spilled a little.

let me know what you come up with.

none

Russ & John,

Sears has just begun selling auto parts via the catalog again, and in their 
first catalog listed a swing away carrier for the rear  of a 4X4.  As I recall 
there were 3 types: Tire carrier only, tire & 1 gas can, and tire and 2 gas 
gans.  The cost was around $125-$175 I think.  You would probably have to 
fabricate some brackets to make the assembly fit.  As for the hassle of 
ordering via mail, if you don't feel it will work, just take it back to the 
Sears catalog store and they'll refund purchase and shipping cost.  They're 
pretty good about that sort of stuff.  Sorry I don't have the number.  Dial 
1-800-555-1212.  Ask for Sears catalog phone #.  Call Sears and ask for their 
automotive accessories catalog.  Oh, the unit looked very nice in the catalog. 
I am toying with the idea of the universal mount unit for my 88.

Bill
maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jun 1994 09:07:28 -0500
From: hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: Re: Springs

David John Place says

>I agree with Bill that $110 to do the springs if it includes taking out
>the bushes is quite reasonable.

I would agree but this shop wanted $110 alone for a pair of shims - the
whole job is more like $400 plus bushings!!! I think I'm just going to do
them myself but I guess I'm going to need to block out a good chunk of free
time.

>ten years or more with salt et. al. on them.  I notice from time to time
>that LRO advertises some nice nylon type bushes.  Has anyone out there
>tried them?

It looks like a full set of polyurethane bushes are around 120 pounds
(though I'm really not too sure how full a set this is). Supposedly you can
hand insert the bush and then - with a special tool - jam a metal sleeve in
the middle that expands the bush so that it doesn't turn. The tool is
around 20 pounds. It looks like a piece of all thread with a bolt on it
that you tighten which forces the sleeve into the bush. They claim these
last 4 to 5 times longer and are impervious to engine oils. This is all
from the ad in LRO. (One of which list a stockist in California - but I'm
going to be real surprised if they stock bushes for LR).

My springs look fine at this point. They do have some surface rust but the
truck has always been in the southwest so I don't think it is anything more
serious than that. But they are original I think which means they have been
on there for some 24 years - are springs prone to just suddenly breaking ?

Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jun 94 16:56:32 BST
From: Peter Azlan <pa@gx2.uk.mdis.com>
Subject: unsubscribe.

Please unsubscribe me from this list, it will take me longer than I thought
to get the old rover on the road, and I cant keep up with the excellent 
mail for the timebeing.

unsubscribe
pa@gx2.mdis.co.uk

Regards

Peter Aslan aka Captain Norton.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jun 94 09:39:26 PDT
From: "Lou Pendley" <loup@quests.com>
Subject: Please unsubscribe me from the list

     Thanks for the info.  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jun 1994 13:24:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Gas Cans

YA' know, I'd be <REAL> worried about carting extra fuel where it could
get hit...it is ok I guess to carry it on the back or front when off
road,but when some goat roper in a chevy plows into you, you may want
to have all the fuel out of harms way....as a firematics drill we would
make a "pond" and fill it with water,pour on 5 gal. gas and used motor
oil..light it with a  fuse....<BOOM>!!!!!! you have to see it to belive it!
Just 5 gals.! If you really really  need the extra range, you should
install a perminent aux. tank...should be a little safer...or switch to
TDi power and double your range with the same tank!!!!

"Fireball" steve....

 HEY, NICE JEEP MISTER!...................IT'S "NOTAJEEP"

Steven M. Denis <denis@oswego.oswego.edu>
PO BOX 61
Erieville,NY 13061

------------------------------

Subject: Clutch woes
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Mon, 13 Jun 1994 10:08:03 -0400

"Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> writes:

> I have my idle set *extremely* low since:
> 1) above
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 3) I usually just end up using the hand throttle to find the idle
> adjustment of the day.

        I have the same problem you describe almost exactly, but with a
        slightly different set of starting points.  First, I only ever use
        92 octane petrol in the 109, with the exception when the Sunoco 94
        is dropped in. However, beyond that items 2 and 3 is what I
        experience.  What I have found is that the distributor shaft is
        badly worn in the 109.  This is allowing it to wobble around,
        preventing me from properly tuning the engine.  While one day it
        will idle and run like a dream, on others I have to use the
        throttle control to keep it alive.  If lucky, I will be gathering
        up a distributor off of one on the five Land Rovers I have south
        of Ottawa this week  (That and another front drive shaft) so I
        will not embarrass myself to much at the Birthday Party this coming
        weekend.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        PS.  It is generally considered rather dumb to go into wet forest
        with only two wheel drive.  It took Ted and George quite a while to
        extract me Saturday...

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jun 94 19:41:59 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Clutch woes

Dixon Kenner <dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>
writes:
   >     ...   What I have found is that the distributor shaft is
   >     badly worn in the 109.  This is allowing it to wobble around,
   >     preventing me from properly tuning the engine.  While one day it
   >     will idle and run like a dream, on others I have to use the
   >     throttle control to keep it alive.  If lucky, I will be gathering
   >     up a distributor off of one on the five Land Rovers I have south
   >     of Ottawa this week ...

You can literally breathe new life into the wobbliest of old distributors
with the "Lumenition" opto-electric ignition control that a british firm
manufactures for Land Rovers. It fits inside your old distr., comes with
easy-to-follow wiring instructions, and apart from giving you an impeccable
timing that will never again need adjusting you can forget the gap - dwell
angle - crap once and for all. It's also *supposed* to work miracles on the
fuel consumption of old Landies. It doesn't come exactly cheap at approx.
$ 175.-, but a new distr. won't be much cheaper, either. I don't have any 
more details, but if anyone's interested I'll check them out.

Cheers,

Stefan R. Jacob,  100043.2400@compuserve.com
LROC of Hessen
Wiesbaden, Germany

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jun 94 19:41:52 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Springs

Greg Hiner <hiner@mail.utexas.edu> writes:

> I would agree but this shop wanted $110 alone for a pair of shims - the
> whole job is more like $400 plus bushings!!! I think I'm just going to do
> them myself but I guess I'm going to need to block out a good chunk of 
> free time.

You bet! It took me a long weekend just to get out the f.... bushings with
the old burn out- saw-wedge&sledgehammer method.
When you put in the new ones, DONT hammer them! They'll get stuck halfway
in, won't go in any further, and you won't get them out again either.
Make yourself a contraption with a screw-rod that goes through the center 
of the bushing, a 1/2" cut from a thick pipe, four nuts, and a pair of 
_thick_ washers, all of _really_ hard alloy, grease well, and _pull_ the 
bushing in rather than bashing it. Slightly beveling the ingoing edge of 
the bushing and some copper paste will also help. And most of all: 
Watch those fingers!

> My springs look fine at this point. They do have some surface rust but the
> truck has always been in the southwest so I don't think it is anything more
> serious than that. But they are original I think which means they have been
> on there for some 24 years - are springs prone to just suddenly breaking ?

Only really badly rusted springs on vehicles that have been standing around
a lot (rusted stiff) can break right through, usually at the front tip.
Otherwise, it depends on their past life. Old springs on a vehicle that's
been driven off-road a lot can be subject to a certain amount of material
fatigue, but usually you will only have one layer snapping as a first 
warning. Check the spring for "cracks"; if the same crack appears at the
same location on the other side, then you've got a broken layer. Anyway,
I've never heard of a spring in satisfactory condition, however old, just
snapping off like that. We've got a 1953 107" Station over here, all parts
original including springs, and they're still ok.

Cheers,

Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@compuserve.com
LROC of Hessen
Wiesbaden, Germany

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jun 1994 00:02:06 -0400
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: more lr parts for sale (+rivnut question)

i have rooted through my basement and have found the following i'd like to vend:

(2) back-up lights with clear lenses and bulbs (these are rectangular and
recess into the body)

(1) red side marker light with both lense and reflector intact, as well as
the rubber and chrome frame/trim

(1) gas gap locking hasp

(1) red tail light, looks to be an older style. looks to be missing some
chrome trim piece

-jory
jory@mit.edu
617-253-8732

p.s. the early work of the gas tank installation is going along fine so far
(undercoated the parts, got the mounting bolts/ misc hardware, marked out
the frame, etc). however, i am debating the proper way to install 5/16"-18
steel rivnuts without the $200 installation tool (i have one method in mind
but i question its utility). anyone worked with these before?

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Springs
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Mon, 13 Jun 1994 18:50:24 -0400

hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner) writes:

> >ten years or more with salt et. al. on them.  I notice from time to time
> >that LRO advertises some nice nylon type bushes.  Has anyone out there
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> hand insert the bush and then - with a special tool - jam a metal sleeve in
> the middle that expands the bush so that it doesn't turn.

        On my 88 we replaced the bushings with some made out of a block of
        nylon/teflon on a lathe.  We just hammered them in.  At least so
        far, they seem to be working quite well, and they are dirt cheap.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        Oh well, off to beg Her Majesty's armed forces for a lot of tentage
        for the Birthday Party.

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: 	Tue, 14 Jun 1994 00:07:51 -0400

On behalf of every body on this side of the big pond I would like to 
welcome stefan r. jacob to our Land Rovers by computer gathering.

You will have noticed that we have recently picked up an Italian 
paticipant in the last weeks, sorry cant remember your name old chap.

I think that this is great. I wonder how many others are out there in the 
woodwork but are just lurking/ I wonder.

If somebody replies to my query on uploading material I have some real 
goodies for you folks.

Must rush,

Regards

Robin Craig, Ottawa Ontario Canada

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jun 1994 02:16:40 -0400
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re: more lr parts for sale (+rivnut question)

a mixture of specific and possibly general interest info follows:

Roy had asked about/expressed interest in some of my parts:

Roy,

>I will take the gas cap hasp and the older red tail light
>and the red side marker light if it is a IIA type.  Let
>me know about price and all that jazz.

I am pretty clueless about price, do you have any idea what would be fair?

I don't think the red side light is a IIA (but am not completely sure), as
it was off my III (and was either discontinued or so expensive i just
replaced it with 110-style side lamps which are just some cheap thing you
can buy in the US aprts stores anyway, since one of the two soriginal
side-marker lamps was busted). It looks something like this bad ascii art:

*************************************
*         *                         *
*  lamp   *        reflector        *
*         *                         *
*************************************

The red tail light does look like a IIA style.

Roy then addressed my rivnut query:

>PS  If I remeber correctly the rivets are aluminum and you will
>need some sort of rivet set to peen the one side and< I can't
>think of what it is called, but it sets over the formed head
>and acts as the anvil with out crushing the head.

I know of what you speak (I used that tool when i removed my bonnet-mounted
spare carrier and filled the holes with solid rivets). Actually though, I
was asking about Steel RIVNUTS (which are distinct from rivets). They are
these rivet like things which you install like pop rivets, but you install
them in just one piece of metal, and they form/provide a threaded hole (the
inside of the rivnut is threaded). These are used to mount the new
outrigger for the second gas tank (and they are steel and quite large, so
you can't use a "normal" sized rivet tool, and would still need a rivnut
adapter in any case).

-jory

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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