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Subject: Re: lro-digest 
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 05:01:09 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

Ok,
  What should happen, is:

IFF you send a note to lro-digest-request@uk.chunnel.stratus.com

you get a reply from Majordomo  (as below)

Then you email a  message to "Majordomo@Chunnel.UK.Stratus.Com" with the
body text (not subject) as

 	subscribe lro-digest

Then you should get a response from Majordomo that tells you that 
you are enrolled.

I will also state that it was out of service most of yesterday, as I had to
get a newer version of Majordomo with some fixes for a security problem.

It has responded to my requests, but I have no evidence that it is
working from the outside world.

Please let me know if you encounter any other difficulties.

The response time is typically a couple minutes + mail time, so you might
get a response back a few minutes or tens of minutes, depending on your
net connectivity.

The digest itself is sent at about 8 am BST(/GMT)  (3 am Eastern US).

> Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 09:32:37 +0100
> Subject: Your mail to lro-digest-request@Chunnel.UK.Stratus.Com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 68 lines)]
> If you feel you need to reach a human, send email to
> 	lro-digest-approval@Chunnel.UK.Stratus.Com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 10:09:52 -0500
From: hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: More thoughts on bushings

The thread on bushings has often mentioned that getting them in (or out) is
not a pleasant experience. Has anybody used the polyurethane (??) bushings.
I have seen adds in LRO Int. from a couple of companies. The one I can
remember is Bushwaka - which claims that you can hand fit the the poly part
and then using a tool insert the inner metal collar which seats the
bushing. Does anybody have any experience with these or similar bushes.
They claim they last much longer. They are however more expensive.

Best -
Greg

------------------------------

From: /G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com
Date: 10 Jun 94 10:23:34 -0600
Subject: clutch problems

i ve got some really wierd problems concerning my clutch. last week i replaced 
the slave cylinder and seemed to solve the difficulties  shifting into 1st 2nd 
and reverse. but yesterday during a long drive the problem came back so i double 
checked the slave cylinder for leaks and readjusted the pushrod  to get the 
clutch to grip in the middle of the pedal throw. it seems that when the engine 
and transmission is hot i have these difficulties. do any of you have 
suggestions??? i really need some help in repairing this little problem. 
mechanically it looks like there is enough throw to disengage the clutch. this 
driving this morning and everything seemed o.k. althought it was cool 
out.besides the clutch slave cylinder what else is there when shifting from 
idle????   

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: More thoughts on bushings
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 16:23:29 BST

> The thread on bushings has often mentioned that getting them in (or out) is
> not a pleasant experience. Has anybody used the polyurethane (??) bushings.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Best -
> Greg
Greg,
No actual experience,I hasten to say,but I think that the tool costs a
bomb,probably as much as the bushes.Well,p'raps not *quite* that bad,but
I remember being somewaht shocked at the price quoted,so much so I've
forgotten what the damn price *was*.I also seem to remember only one
part number being quoted for the older Rover,which would indicate that
you cant *completely* rebush with these.Having said that,they seem to
have a good press.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 13:32:46 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: T-Shirts

I've had five more orders than I have shirts to sell...so the first ones in
the door will be the first ones to mail out.  Fortunately, the printing
turn-around time is but a day or two, so I'll have another dozen printed up.

Incidentally, I lied...it's not a IIa, but rather a III, 88 full-tilt on
the back.   Sorry if you don't like the plastic grille (mine got replaced
w/metal), but it is still a fine image.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 13:58:19 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Clutch problems

I have been having similar problems with my clutch...and quite by
coincidence, there was an article in May's LRO by some chap who calimed the
pushrod on his Ser III clutch wore down by 1/2".  The symptoms included
erratic clutch performance, though the hydraulics and everything else
seemed fine.  The author fitted a new, longer pushrod and everything was AOK.

First of all...unless he was dealing with a pot-metal pushrod, I cannot
comprehend how 1/2" could wear away...unless he was working in a salt mine somewhere.

If there are no leaks/lost fluid, there is but one other cause for
problems...the clutch flex line on the backside of the engine...and here
engine heat may be contributing to the problem.   Works great when cold,
but gets mushy and expands when hot.  (Bruce at British Rovers suggested
that.)  I've just sent off an order for a new flex line...and I'm willing
to bet $10 that that fixes the problem with my intermittent clutch.

BTW, Charlie at RN passed along another tidbit for replacing the III
pushrod without dismantling the bellhousing.  The pushrod is held in the
yoke by a plastic clip whose sole purpose is to fix it in place during
assembly.  Once mated to the slave cylinder, a retainer is superfluous.
Charlie suggested dipping the end in Vaseline and freezing it.  The stiff
grease holds the shaft in place during reassembly.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 14:36:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: clutch problems

One very simple thing is to make sure the idle is not set too high.

Then in the RN parts catalog they show the correct length of the slave
cylinder push rod, from the boot to the nut. I believe it is 2 7/8",
measured with an outside caliper. I haven't tried it yet so I can't get
too technical.
Others here can probably be of more help.

later
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 15:28:51 -0400
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Clutch woes

Sandy Grice wrote:
none
I have been having similar problems with my clutch...and quite by
coincidence, there was an article in May's LRO by some chap who calimed the
pushrod on his Ser III clutch wore down by 1/2".  The symptoms included
erratic clutch performance, though the hydraulics and everything else
seemed fine.  The author fitted a new, longer pushrod and everything was AOK.

First of all...unless he was dealing with a pot-metal pushrod, I cannot
comprehend how 1/2" could wear away...unless he was working in a salt mine somewhere.

If there are no leaks/lost fluid, there is but one other cause for
problems...the clutch flex line on the backside of the engine...and here
engine heat may be contributing to the problem.   Works great when cold,
but gets mushy and expands when hot.  (Bruce at British Rovers suggested
that.)  I've just sent off an order for a new flex line...and I'm willing
to bet $10 that that fixes the problem with my intermittent clutch.

BTW, Charlie at RN passed along another tidbit for replacing the III
pushrod without dismantling the bellhousing.  The pushrod is held in the
yoke by a plastic clip whose sole purpose is to fix it in place during
assembly.  Once mated to the slave cylinder, a retainer is superfluous.
Charlie suggested dipping the end in Vaseline and freezing it.  The stiff
grease holds the shaft in place during reassembly.
none

and Jon H. wrote:
none
One very simple thing is to make sure the idle is not set too high.

Then in the RN parts catalog they show the correct length of the slave
cylinder push rod, from the boot to the nut. I believe it is 2 7/8",
measured with an outside caliper. I haven't tried it yet so I can't get
too technical.
Others here can probably be of more help.
none

couple of comments:

I find that Nigel (and all other rovers we dushin's have owned) needs
to idle quite low in order for one NOT to get some grinding (reliably
NOT to get grinding, anyway) in 1st and reverse.  Low, like somewhere
in the 800-1200 rpm range (estimated).....nearly low enough for it
to die.

I have my idle set *extremely* low since:
1) above
2) the idle never seems to be consistant, and varies with the quality
(or lack thereof) of the gas I use, and with atmospheric conditions,
and with Nigel's mood.
3) I usually just end up using the hand throttle to find the idle
adjustment of the day.

as for 1st to 2nd, well, you just gotta double clutch since you ain't
got no synchro dare.

As for this pushrod length/wear stuff......surely, a push rod cannot
really wear that much.  I have begun to wonder, however, if it is 
possible that somewhere along the line a non-stock pushrod (eg one
off of some other brit rig) could have been used in place of the
original one.  Nigel's *brand new* 9.5" (non-adjustable wrt the
diaphram vs. the adjustable forks on the 9" clutch) clutch was recently
installed, and even with the pushrod _fully_ extended (ie no more 
push rod adjustment left) the clutch pedal isn't felt until the 
slave is about half-way through its travel.  (with the push rod
return spring off it matters none-there is still plenty of slave travel
left for the clutch to disengage, but if I replace the push rod
return spring-which most of you do not have since LR dropped it in
the early-mid 60's-then the slave is returned to the top of its
stroke and the first push of the pedal only gets you _to_ clutch and
not "through" it.  I do wonder, however, if with the spring off my
the collar on my withdrawl mechanism is resting on the spinning
clutch and wearing needlessly.....akin to what happens if you rest
your foot on the clutch at stoplights, etc.).  Anyway, I have not
(yet) measured the length of this pushrod (lame, I know...I was 
*just* there a week ago, it was in my hands) nor of those on our
other rovers, but the thought has crossed my mind that the one
in Nige ain't meant to be......it really is the only explanation
(since I measured up the distance between the withdrawl mechanism
throw-out collar and the casing with the cross shaft in the appropriate
position and it was exactly the requied 11 mm.).

On another note, and as an aside to the concept that your hose
could be flexing (geeze, could it really flex *that* much??), have
you checked to be *sure* that the pins connecting your cross shaft
to your slave pushrod/lever ass'y are intact??  (Is this a SII/SIIa
or a SIII??  If it is a SIII then me thinks you don't have these
pins so ignore this.)  There could be some slippage between the
cross shaft and the push rod/lever ass'y that could get worse once
things warm up.....just worse enough that you could get the problems
you are having.  I'd suggest *removing* the pins to be certain they
are not sheared rather than just being satisfied with seeing that
both ends are still there.

good luck,
rd/danige

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 17:00:59 EDT

snipsnip
 your foot on the clutch at stoplights, etc.).  Anyway, I have not
> (yet) measured the length of this pushrod (lame, I know...I was 
> *just* there a week ago, it was in my hands) nor of those on our
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> throw-out collar and the casing with the cross shaft in the appropriate
> position and it was exactly the requied 11 mm.).
Then again, there is always the possibility that my flywheel has
been resurfaced one (or three) times too many.....someone out there
in LRnetland suggested this to me awhile ago, and the concept evaporated
from my brain when I wrote the above........it recondensed when I
read it, though.

Clutch sure feels nice, nowadaze.  Time to tow the manure spreader
up a steep hill fully loaded in low-low 3rd gear.

funfun,
rd/nigel

------------------------------

Subject: Various
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Wed, 8 Jun 1994 14:30:33 -0400

 > Thanks all.  Methinks that since I know my spline is nearly shot (on the
 > steering arm), and since this gives rise to some complete *free* play in
 > the swivel on the LH side (and this is _usually_ the side that gives me
 > trouble.....ie bumps on the left are worse than bumps on the right) that
 > I'm gonna go ahead and do this Railco conversion.  Gotta be this weekend
 > if I expect to make the OVLR party, but it's now haying season and there's
 > work to be done............

        Well, Ted and I are going to be trudging through the wood this
        weekend marking off all of the trails for the heavy and light
        off-road sessions.  The agenda is very similar to the one that I
        posted earlier, althought there are a few minor additions.  The
        cost of the event is going to be $15Cdn for adults, $8 for
        children.  The club will be providing lunch and dinner on Saturday,
        as well as breakfast Sunday.

        Hopefully, the latest order from Merseyside will arrive before next
        Saturday and I will be able to get the little earth pig on the road
        as an extra mudding vehicle.   This time, Dave Gregory at
        Merseyside says the complete parts list will be added to the
        shipment.  We shall see...

        Rgds

        Dixon

        PS:  Have leads on a couple more Land Rovers... :-)  The home
        collection might just grow a wee bit more.... <grin>

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Subject: More Spring Cleaning
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Thu, 9 Jun 1994 10:39:00 -0400

hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner) writes:

> I have a 70 88IIa which has seen the last of its spring bushings. After the
> recent thread on springs I finally managed to get the truck in to have a
> spring shop look it over (bushing work seems like a real pain in the ass -
> but maybe I will change my mind).

        They are a pain in the ass, but it can be done.  BTW, The springs
        we pick up from the UK have the bushings in them.  The only problem
        is getting the lousy bolts out.  As per the bushing in the frame
        (top of the shackle on rear of the front springs) I have seen
        people cut the frame to get that out, welding it back together
        afterwards.  Of them all, that is the worst.

> Anyway they gave me a quote which included $110 for camber shims (special
> order and all)! Now I have done most all the work on my truck and looked at
> parts books and such and I have never seen camber shims before? Are there
> any? Where do they go? Are these guys on the wrong page?

        Camber shims?  Never seen, nor heard of these for a Land Rover and
        I have seen a fair number of Land ROvers taken apart.  Considering
        they are not even in my parts manual, mentioned in the factory
        manual, I stay away from this one.

> I have also looked at the instructions for removing springs in the Haynes
> and LR manuals. Do you really need to support the axle and frame on stands
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> moving)? Well perhaps before I ramble on with questions could somebody give
> me the quick and dirty about how they have done it?

        Lift the vehicle at one end so the wheels are just touching the
        ground.  Remove the four u-bolts on one side, remove the two spring
        bolts, .  Remove spring.  Replace with new spring, reassemble.  Do
        the other side.  Straight forward, though not necessarily painless.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 17:32:19 PDT
From: edwang@lsil.com (Ed Wang - 7837)
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

unsubscribe me please.

Edward Wang  	(408) GEE-STEP	  Fax: (408) 954-4874

edwang@up171.lsil.com 

------------------------------

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