Re: [lro] Thoughts about low budget lifting.... a series

From: David Blair (daveblair@bcnewsgroup.com)
Date: Thu Jan 16 2003 - 18:19:35 EST

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    Just a thot, maybe after lifting the body, one could drop the seat frame the
    same amount to buy some head room...
     
    Dave

    On 1/16/03 10:16 AM, "Jean-Leon Morin" <offroaddesign@softhome.net> wrote:

    >
    > Shall I handle this one, lads?
    >
    > Hi Bowy, I saw your post on the POR board. I've done many of the
    > modifications you were discussing, my 1966 109 3 door has a spring over
    > suspension, 900R16 tires, and a few other modifications.
    >
    > Contrary to the guys on the POR board said, spring overs are tough. There's
    > a lot more involved than people realise, and I'd definitely recommend
    > against it if you aren't a very good fabricator and have some engineering
    > background to help you figure it out. They look pretty easy when you think
    > about it, but it's a lot of head scratching custom fabrication.
    >
    > 900X16's are big tires, and I think that they are going to tax the heck out
    > of your motor, and raise your gearing. If you must run those big tires, your
    > best bet will be to lower the spring mounts on the chassis a couple of
    > inches, to get some lift, and fit military shackles. 1 ton rovers had this
    > tire size from the factory, however, they are geared very low (via a special
    > transfer case) and are extremely slow on the road. You will probably have to
    > trim your bodywork a bit, which isn't too hard to do so it looks decent.
    >
    > The other thing you can do is bring your springs to a spring shop and have
    > them re-arch them for a couple of inches extra. They can usually do with
    > with good results. With 2"of springs and 2" from the hangers you should have
    > enough room to run the big tires.
    >
    > I'd recommend against a body lift. They won't help you much for frame
    > clearance and they just look wrong on a Land-Rover. By the time you factor
    > in the labour involved in making all the little brackets and figuring out
    > all the details, you'll be better off with the spring/mount modification.
    >
    > Anyways, good luck...
    >
    > J-L
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: Bowy . <bowy12@hotmail.com>
    > To: <lro@koan.team.net>
    > Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 12:45 PM
    > Subject: [lro] Thoughts about low budget lifting.... a series
    >
    >
    >>
    >> Hi guys
    >>
    >> Yesterday my chassis broke down right in the middle after jacking it up
    >> under the crossmember. Ik knew my chassis wasn't is such a good shape but
    >> this bad.....
    >>
    >> So now I'am going to put a new chassis under my IIa SWB. And thinking
    > about
    >> a body lift, now I'am at it. This because my mcreary superlug 9.00x16 (93
    > cm
    >> tall) tires don't fit now. (they rub the inner sides of my panels.)
    >>
    >> I've already got longer shackles fit and my leafsprings are ok. I think I
    >> can fit longer dumb iron on the front of my leafs, like a airportable 109.
    >> I asked a question about lifting and everything on the UK forums but there
    >> nobody actually knows a lot about it, I thought maybe you guys can help
    > me
    >> out?
    >> Now Im thinking about two lifting options
    >> On my previous s****ki samur*i the body lift wasn't difficult but how
    >> difficult is this on a landie?? Anyone experience? I'am thinking of buying
    > a
    >> piece of square tube and cut it in pieces and wel it on the chassis
    > between
    >> the de body/bulkhead and the chassis
    >>
    >> O, high center of gravity isn't a problem for me. I live in Holland were
    >> everything is very flat and the only real difficulty we encounter is very
    >> deeeeeeep ruts from tractors and so in the kley.
    >>
    >> I was actually thinking about lifting only the body 2 inch and leaving the
    >> engine alone. Lowering my radiator (not a very big problem I think)
    >> The biggest problem is (trough my eyes) the steering part, I want to leave
    >> the steering relay on its place and just move the steering box up or am I
    >> thinking to easy of this? (for the record , mine is a LHD so no problems
    >> with the battery mounting).
    >>
    >> The reason I don't want to go for a rework on my panels. I want to keep it
    > a
    >> bit original looking. I dont want to go to a SOA, I think this is a bit
    > to
    >> complicated.. Ive never even seen this in Holland.
    >>
    >> The other solution for more tire clearance is:
    >> Maybe lowering the shock mountings is also posibility for me. I've already
    >> got longer shackles fit and my leafsprings are ok. I think I can fit
    > longer
    >> dumb iron on the front of my leafs, like a airportable 109. and in the
    > rear
    >> too together with dislocating my rear axle to the rear,for two inch or so,
    >> so it will sit in the middle for more clearance and ability to maintain
    >> normal propshaft length with the Salisbury. (longer nose than rover)
    >> The reason why Iam going through al these solutions is , I am a student
    > (so
    >> no money. ) . Thats the reason not going for parabolics (yet..)
    >>
    >> .....
    >>
    >> I'l have to think about my options:
    >> I figured out the pro's and con's....
    >>
    >>
    >> - Dumb iron/spring mounts lowering
    >> easy?
    >> not very expensive
    >> enough lift
    >>
    >> - SOA
    >> most work
    >> most expensive
    >> more lift then I need
    >>
    >> - Body lift
    >> least work I think...
    >> Very cheap......
    >> Just enough lift
    >>
    >> Anybody sugestions?
    >>
    >> Hope one of you experts can help me out here. Or give advice!
    >>
    >> Sorry for my lousy typing I'am from the Netherlands.
    >>
    >> Greetz Bowy
    >>
    >> Series IIa '64 camel, fitted with: pto winch, 9.00 x 16, salisbury, cage.
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
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