Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #191 - 27 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 03:04:57 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs
       key) (G. Mugele)
   2. Re: Re: Keys (G. Mugele)
   3. Is this a clutch problem (Jeff Loofboro)
   4. Re: Re: What's new ([email-masked])
   5. Re: Is this a clutch problem (Alan J. Richer)
   6. Re: Keys (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   7. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (TeriAnn Wakeman)
   8. Re: Is this a clutch problem (John Cranfield)
   9. Re: Re: Keys (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  10. Re: Is this a clutch problem (John Cranfield)
  11. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (Kirk Hillman)
  12. Re: Is this a clutch problem (Mark Pilkington)
  13. Re: Is this a clutch problem (Peter Ogilvie)
  14. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Peter Ogilvie)
  15. Re: Brake upgrades (Brian Horner)
  16. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (marko.cosic)
  17. Re: Is this a clutch problem (Phil Norris)
  18. Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (Jim Laurel)
  19. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (William J. Rice)
  20. Re: Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (Jeff Berg)
  21. Re: Re: Keys (N Forbes)
  22. Re: Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (Lonn Howard)
  23. Re: Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (N Forbes)
  24. Re: Is this a clutch problem (David Scheidt)
  25. Re: Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (Rich Williams)
  26. Re: Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA (TeriAnn Wakeman)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:19:10 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs
  key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 5:28 PM -0500 12/14/01, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote:
>Like Marin, I own a '73 NAS SIII with about 18,000 original miles.  The
>ignition key and door keys are so similar in appearance and size that I
>added a rubber boot around the head of ignition key.

That's interesting.  Do yours have a Land Rover logo on them or do 
they say "Union" on them or something else?

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele    --  ("Peat" '95 D90 SW)

***  They say  "Great Discoveries are made by not following 
instructions."   Does this explain Land Rover assembly line practices?

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:31:00 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Keys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 5:09 PM -0700 12/14/01, Keith Tanner wrote:
>
>Yes. All the keys appear to be the same age, but it really is hard 
>to tell after 34 years. This truck also has the factory LSD in the 
>rear.

So did my 67.  I wonder if they had a surfeit of LSD that year.  I've 
heard of a number of other on 67s as well but rarely on other years.

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele    --  ("Peat" '95 D90 SW)

***  They say  "Great Discoveries are made by not following 
instructions."   Does this explain Land Rover assembly line practices?

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Jeff Loofboro" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:26:11 -0500
Subject: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a '71 IIA 88, when I begin letting the clutch out nothing happens, but
about halfway out it suddenly engages and lurches forward. Then when I come to
a stop (with the clutch in) I can here something clunking around until it
comes to a complete stop. I can also feel the clunking in the gearshift lever.
This doesn't happen in reverse and seems to improve as I continue to drive.
The car has been sitting for a while, about 3 months. It also grinds into 1st
gear about 75% of the time.

What's up with that?

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:06:16 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

on 12/14/2001, Faure, Marin wrote:

>While there are minimum requirements to be a pilot, it stands to reason that
within
>the range of qualified airline pilots there are ones at the top of the list
and ones at
>the bottom of the list.  They're not all great pilots. In fact, I know a
couple of pilots
>for major airlines that I will not fly with, even though they meet the
minimum
>requirements to qualify for the job. 

In the back of my mind I always knew this of course but it does not fill me
with confidence when I'm just about to fly from Rome to Los Angeles and back.
Not knowing any of those chaps in the pointy end of the plane personally I
guess I'll have to trust to luck and the complexity of electronics in modern
aircraft.

Yup! I get to go home and see the Land Rover after 6 months away! For all of
three days, but never mind. And yes, I couldn't do my job without all the
modern electronics, digital editing systems and the like, but as for fixing
anything............
Like most, I enjoy the hands-on feel of a Land Rover, modifying it to suit my
preferences and keeping it running. And unlike most cars that fall under the
heading of 'classic' and thus preservable as originally built, I suspect that
there's not two Land Rovers in the whole of the U.S. that are the same. Its
the kind of vehicle that appeals to individuality and, well, just messing
about in cars.

>I know 777 and 747 pilots who during their vacations fly de Havilland
Beavers
>for the floatplane service I am associated with. These guys, who make big
bucks
>flying their airliners and pennies flying the Beavers, do it because, as
they tell me,
>flying the floatplanes is REAL flying. 

This I can appreciate. A year or so ago, I was on location down in Fiji and
flew on a de Havilland Otter courtesy of Turtle Airways. That was the closest
thing I've ever been to flying in a Land Rover fitted with wings and a
propellor - great fun!

Despite the fact that Italy (at least in the areas I've been based) seems to
be a Series-free zone, there was one amusing item on the news here last week.
In a news report on the price of fuel, there was a cutaway to footage from a
gas station with a Series IIA station wagon filling up at the pump. An inside
joke perhaps?

Happy Rovering!

Ian Kelly (Umbria, Italy)
1970 Series IIA 88" (Los Angeles)
"what kind of bad geographical planning is this"

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:51:45 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Grinding going into first sounds suspiciously like the
clutch hydraulics are either misadjusted, need
bleeding or have a broken linkage bit.

I'd look over the linkage and hydraulics closely, and
start by bleeding the air out of the system.

The clunking sounds to me like a separate issue - a
flunky U-joint perhaps.

           ajr

--- Jeff Loofboro <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> I have a '71 IIA 88, when I begin letting the clutch
> out nothing happens, but
> about halfway out it suddenly engages and lurches
> forward. Then when I come to
> a stop (with the clutch in) I can here something
> clunking around until it
> comes to a complete stop. I can also feel the
> clunking in the gearshift lever.
> This doesn't happen in reverse and seems to improve
> as I continue to drive.
> The car has been sitting for a while, about 3
> months. It also grinds into 1st
> gear about 75% of the time.
> 
> What's up with that?
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
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--__--__--

Message: 6
Subject: Re: [lro] Keys
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 06:08:55 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Of course if the locks have been changed at any time, then the new ones
>would have different keys?

And conversly you could purchase a matched set of lock barrels and have 
just one key for everything.

Well almost.  The lift gate lock barrel is not removable.  But I now have 
a single key for the ignition and the side doors.

Plus a single key for all three fuel tanks locks, the bonnet lock and the 
propane access door lock.  The water tank lock is unique on purpose as I 
use a fuel filler top with plastic insides.  It looks like a fourth fuel 
filler from outside.

I oonce won an 'fun' award at a British car field meet for the vehicle 
with the most locks.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 7
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 06:34:49 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles
> go off-road with original braking systems.  Maybe I
> need to redo mine...again.

Sounds like you do need to go through them.

I've found my 109 brakes work OK under most circumstances.  I converted 
to dual circuit because my single circuit system had rust through pin 
holes in the brake line, twice.  First I considered a fluke, second 
warranted a complete line replacement plus an upgrade to a dual circuit 
system before I would rest easy.  At the age of 20, I had to bail out of 
my first car just before it went over a cliff when the brakes suddenly 
failed. So redundency helps me sleep better.

I only have two problems with 109 brakes off road.

1. With 2 leading brakes on the front it is REAL hard to hold a 109 
stationary nose up on a steep hill (Not an 88 issue)

2. There isn't much brake right after a deep crossing.

SO I think a 109 could be helped by front discs if you off road in 
mountainous areas or drive the streets of San Francisco.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:06:52 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>From your description it sounds like there may some contamination in the
clutch disc. This is further indicated by the clunking as you come to a
stop.
 The clutch operating about 1/2 way out is about right.
 I don't want to be silly here but are you used to driving a manual
shift vehicle. The reason I ask is that the clutch pedal has a "feel" to
it that those who rarely drive standards have to learn.
The crunch into first is fairly common on series 2a vehicles and many
drivers just slip into 3rd gear momentarily then into 1st. That allows
the syncro'ed 3rd gear to stop the gears turning  before you try
unsyncro'ed 1st. This also is needed more when you have a stick
contaminated clutch.
John and Muddy

Jeff Loofboro wrote:
> 
> I have a '71 IIA 88, when I begin letting the clutch out nothing happens, but
> about halfway out it suddenly engages and lurches forward. Then when I come to
> a stop (with the clutch in) I can here something clunking around until it
> comes to a complete stop. I can also feel the clunking in the gearshift lever.
> This doesn't happen in reverse and seems to improve as I continue to drive.
> The car has been sitting for a while, about 3 months. It also grinds into 1st
> gear about 75% of the time.
> 
> What's up with that?
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Keys
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 07:03:28 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Keep in mind that Euro and NAS SIIIs do not have the same kind of locking 
>mechanism. Those found on Euros SIII models are more like what's found on 
>late IIa's (i.e. lock cylinder is in the open handle area, not in a hole in 
>the door skin).

I believe that is a matter of which year vehicle you have.  The pre-anti 
burst latch has it's lock in the handle, not in the skin and was standard 
fittment through the '64 models.  The current series III/Defender anti 
burst latch has the lock in the door skin.

There was a late IIA antiburst latch that is NLA.  I do not remember 
where it's lock was located.

Just remembered I have a full set of parts books within reach......

The Late IIA, early III latch (June '65 - Aug '72) had a latch with a 
lock inside the skin door opening.  According to the optional parts 
manual the late style antiburst latch with the hole through the skin was 
on all 88 & 109 dodels, all doors after Aug '72. 

The parts book makes no mention of the changeover being North American 
Spec only, and it usually points out country specific specs.  The German 
& Swiss models have some interesting features that I would have liked to 
see on North American spec LRs.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:07:49 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>From your description it sounds like there may some contamination in the
clutch disc. This is further indicated by the clunking as you come to a
stop.
 The clutch operating about 1/2 way out is about right.
 I don't want to be silly here but are you used to driving a manual
shift vehicle. The reason I ask is that the clutch pedal has a "feel" to
it that those who rarely drive standards have to learn.
The crunch into first is fairly common on series 2a vehicles and many
drivers just slip into 3rd gear momentarily then into 1st. That allows
the syncro'ed 3rd gear to stop the gears turning  before you try
unsyncro'ed 1st. This also is needed more when you have a sticky
contaminated clutch.
John and Muddy

Jeff Loofboro wrote:
> 
> I have a '71 IIA 88, when I begin letting the clutch out nothing happens, but
> about halfway out it suddenly engages and lurches forward. Then when I come to
> a stop (with the clutch in) I can here something clunking around until it
> comes to a complete stop. I can also feel the clunking in the gearshift lever.
> This doesn't happen in reverse and seems to improve as I continue to drive.
> The car has been sitting for a while, about 3 months. It also grinds into 1st
> gear about 75% of the time.
> 
> What's up with that?
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:22:41 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

John,
    Thanks for the suggestion.  The pulley I have currently is the smallest
double pulley I could find.  If it was any smaller I wouldn't be able to get
a socket around the nut on the end of the shaft.  Just so you know, the
speed thing isn't a problem.  I was just warning anyone wanting a higher
output alternator.  The higher the output the more it usually takes to
excite it before it starts charging.  Once it has started charging, at least
on mine, it will continue to charge far below the starting threshold.  In
fact, if I turned my idle up to anything over 800 RPM I would never have to
think about it.  I just like the slow crawl of 500-600 RPM over the bumpy
stuff!  :-)

Kirk

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cranfield" <[email-masked]>
> Have you tried using a smaller pulley on this alternator
> I did this on the advise of the local auto electrical guy and it does
> work.
> John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:01:08 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mine did this.  It turned out to be rust on the final drive shaft that the clutch
plate slides on.  It would stick and then lurch forward when the clutch was engaged,
and going into first it would grind and snatch.  A bit of use soon took care of it,
and I bled the clutch hydraulics as well just for good measure. Stopping the
syncho'ed gears by popping it into 3rd momentarily before 1st is also a very good
idea. I used to be a 4WD offroad instuctor in Land Rovers in England and got so used
to doing this that I even still now do it in modern buzz-box cars much to the
amusement of passengers who think I am "looking" for 1st.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

John Cranfield wrote:

> >From your description it sounds like there may some contamination in the
> clutch disc. This is further indicated by the clunking as you come to a
> stop.
>  The clutch operating about 1/2 way out is about right.
>  I don't want to be silly here but are you used to driving a manual
> shift vehicle. The reason I ask is that the clutch pedal has a "feel" to
> it that those who rarely drive standards have to learn.
> The crunch into first is fairly common on series 2a vehicles and many
> drivers just slip into 3rd gear momentarily then into 1st. That allows
> the syncro'ed 3rd gear to stop the gears turning  before you try
> unsyncro'ed 1st. This also is needed more when you have a stick
> contaminated clutch.
> John and Muddy
>
> Jeff Loofboro wrote:
> >
> > I have a '71 IIA 88, when I begin letting the clutch out nothing happens, but
> > about halfway out it suddenly engages and lurches forward. Then when I come to
> > a stop (with the clutch in) I can here something clunking around until it
> > comes to a complete stop. I can also feel the clunking in the gearshift lever.
> > This doesn't happen in reverse and seems to improve as I continue to drive.
> > The car has been sitting for a while, about 3 months. It also grinds into 1st
> > gear about 75% of the time.
> >
> > What's up with that?
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:35:57 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
>The crunch into first is fairly common on series 2a vehicles and many
>drivers just slip into 3rd gear momentarily then into 1st. That allows
>the syncro'ed 3rd gear to stop the gears turning  before you try
>unsyncro'ed 1st. >

FWIW, you don't need to put the trans. fully into 3rd to get the benefit.  
Just push the lever far enough for the synchro's to engage and match the 
speed.  Saves time and effort to do it this way and much easier once you 
develop the feel for the synchro engagement.

Aloha
Peter O.

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:00:43 -1000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I used to think TAW was being a little dramatic describing the power of the 
brakes in reverse.  Recently backed down my steep driveway with a load in 
the back of the 109.  My neighbor, who shares the driveway, chose that 
moment to back out of his garage into my path.  I couldn't stop the truck.  
Fortunately, slowed it enough to avoid a collision.  A scary encounter.

The truck had been pulling to the left when stopping, going forward.   I'd 
put a look at the drums on my 'rountoit' list.  With the encouragement of 
the poor reverse stopping power, pulled the right front drum.  It was 
thoroughly lubricated with 90wt.  Soaking the riveted shoes in gasoline and 
lighting them on fire, replacing the oil seal in the hub, and voila!!  The 
truck no longer pulls to the left when the brakes are applied.  More 
importantly, in reverse it will actually come to a stop on our driveway.  
Still takes a powerful right legs to stop it in reverse, however.

Brake boosters cut the effort required to actuate the brakes but don't 
really make the brakes any more efficient.  As long as you have a properly 
developed right leg, stopping distance will be much the same, whether 
boosted or not.  The same goes for dual circuit systems.  They are a safety 
measure to prevent total loss of brakes if one line is holed.

If you want better brakes, you need bigger brakes.  Having said that, 
properly functioning Series brakes work just fine for me.  As Marin says, 
however, they aren't great at resisting fade when overheated by repeated use 
under heavy load.  Strangely, they seem to handle the steep hills around 
here much better than car disc brakes.  Probably a function of the automatic 
air brake inherent in the aerodynamic Series body work.

Aloha
Peter O.

>From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
>Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 06:34:49 -0800
>
>
> > I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles
> > go off-road with original braking systems.  Maybe I
> > need to redo mine...again.
>
>Sounds like you do need to go through them.
>
>I've found my 109 brakes work OK under most circumstances.  I converted
>to dual circuit because my single circuit system had rust through pin
>holes in the brake line, twice.  First I considered a fluke, second
>warranted a complete line replacement plus an upgrade to a dual circuit
>system before I would rest easy.  At the age of 20, I had to bail out of
>my first car just before it went over a cliff when the brakes suddenly
>failed. So redundency helps me sleep better.
>
>I only have two problems with 109 brakes off road.
>
>1. With 2 leading brakes on the front it is REAL hard to hold a 109
>stationary nose up on a steep hill (Not an 88 issue)
>
>2. There isn't much brake right after a deep crossing.
>
>SO I think a 109 could be helped by front discs if you off road in
>mountainous areas or drive the streets of San Francisco.
>
>TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
>Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
>[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
>http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
>
>"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
>Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:21:19 -0800
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>, "'Land Rover Mail Group'"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yeah - I suppose you are right.  I will start looking through my existing
system before making any decisions on upgrading.  I will be sure to look for
all the things you have mentioned - thank you for your advice!

Brian

 From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> 
>> Off-road - I don't trust my brakes at all.
> When I stop on super steep grades, going uphill or downhill, my rig actually
> moves (ever so slightly) - millimeter by millimeter and that, to me, is just
> unacceptable.
> 
> The experiences you are having with your brakes sound more like
> problems with your specific vehicle than faults with the design.  I'm
> the last one to defend the Series as having great brakes, but they
> are certainly adequate for the purposes for which the vehicle was
> designed.  I've never experienced brake "creep" as you are
> describing it except on the parking brake when it was not properly
> adjusted.  But the wheelbrakes on my SIII have been pretty much
> trouble-free all these years that I've owned it.
> 
> I have had to 
> replace or reline shoes, of course, and the plastic fluid reservoir
> crazed and cracked and had to be replaced after about
> six years.  On the advice of a Land Rover expert I knew
> in the '70s and '80s, I put a shroud around
> the new reservoir, and it is in as good a condition today as
> it was when I installed it over twenty years ago.  But outside of
> those couple of things, the brakes have always functioned as
> advertised.  
> 
> They are very prone to fading, and after one bad experience
> I wouldn't use the SIII to tow a heavy trailer again.  But for handling
> the basic vehicle, the brakes do okay IF you don't depend on making
> panic stops or other hard-braking maneuvers that we are all used to
> making in today's vehicles.  But if your wheelbrakes are not holding
> you on hills, then I think you need to go through your system and find
> out what's wrong.  Could be anything from a worn out master cylinder
> to worn out wheel cylinders to oil getting on the shoes or the drums.
> Could be a pinhole leak in a brake line, too.
> 
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
> 
> 

-----------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "marko.cosic" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:09:57 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Strangely, they seem to handle the steep hills around
here much better than car disc brakes.

---

The discs have no self-servo effect, remember you always have 1 self-servoing
shoe no metter which way up you park, AND you're handbrake has a 4.7:1 leverage
advantage thruopgh the diffs when compared to cars.

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Message: 17
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:34:12 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Or learn to double-declutch?
only a bit of fancy footwork, not really a big deal.....
PhilN
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Ogilvie <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 15 December 2001 17:37
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem

>
>>From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
>>The crunch into first is fairly common on series 2a vehicles and many
>>drivers just slip into 3rd gear momentarily then into 1st. That allows
>>the syncro'ed 3rd gear to stop the gears turning  before you try
>>unsyncro'ed 1st. >
>
>FWIW, you don't need to put the trans. fully into 3rd to get the benefit.
>Just push the lever far enough for the synchro's to engage and match the
>speed.  Saves time and effort to do it this way and much easier once you
>develop the feel for the synchro engagement.
>
>Aloha
>Peter O.
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>_______________________________________________
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>[email-masked]
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--__--__--

Message: 18
From: "Jim Laurel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:03:28 -0800
Subject: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Can anyone provide feedback on the British Northwest Land Rover Company in
Olympia, WA?  I am thinking of having them do some corrosion work and
expedition preparation on my NAS 110.

Thanks!

--Jim Laurel

--__--__--

Message: 19
To: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:09:30 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TAW said.
> I only have two problems with 109 brakes off road.
> 
> 1. With 2 leading brakes on the front it is REAL hard to hold a 109 
> stationary nose up on a steep hill (Not an 88 issue)

A-men, TA.  I've never been able to hold my 109 (even w/ boosted dual
circuit brakes) on super-steep uphills without LOTS of pedal-pushing AND
assistance from the transmission brake.  And the water crossing thing is
a liability too.  I'm planning on going to discs in the next 6 mos., as
soon as my mad-scientist friend here finishes his caliper mount/ rotor
hat designs for the Wilwood components he's putting on his Uber-Wagen
(109SW w/ EFI 302 and all sorts of other mods you don't even want to know
about).

But I have no qualms whatsoever about offroading w/ my truck--I'm just
aware of its limitations and use techniques to compensate in tough spots.
 If the brakes are so bad that you can't imagine people off-roading w/
them, then your brakes ain't right.

bill

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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:00:22 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Can anyone provide feedback on the British Northwest Land Rover Company in
>Olympia, WA?  I am thinking of having them do some corrosion work and
>expedition preparation on my NAS 110.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Deep pockets my friend. I hope you have very deep pockets.

jab

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Keys
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 00:29:06 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Well, this was on my friends' '71(?) and '75 SIII's. Both were from Germany.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com

--__--__--

Message: 22
From: "Lonn Howard" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:06:16 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The only reason that the guy who used to own my 109 sold it was because it
was SO expensive to maintain...  he had British Northwest do his work.  I've
got his old receipts.  I can't imagine paying what he did for the work
performed, but then, he didn't turn his own wrenches.  They do good work
evidently since they are still around, but it comes at a premium.  No
personal experience, however.

Since you are driving a 110 we can assume that you can afford the British
Northwest experience...

Good luck,
Lonn

> Can anyone provide feedback on the British Northwest Land Rover Company in
> Olympia, WA?  I am thinking of having them do some corrosion work and
> expedition preparation on my NAS 110.

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 00:36:01 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Is that Cornflake's place? If so, from the stories I've heard, I'd stay 
away.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

--__--__--

Message: 24
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:43:01 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Is this a clutch problem
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Sat, 15 Dec 2001, Phil Norris wrote:

> 
> Or learn to double-declutch?
> only a bit of fancy footwork, not really a big deal.....
> PhilN

Of course, double declutching doesn't help a whit if you're not moving.
Grabing third or fourth works quite nicely then.  

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Rich Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:45:47 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Can anyone provide feedback on the British Northwest Land Rover Company in
> Olympia, WA?  I am thinking of having them do some corrosion work and
> expedition preparation on my NAS 110.

ARGH!

British NW Land Rover?  Cornflake in Olympia, WA?  You'd be well advised to
take your dollars elsewhere.  All the stories you've heard are true.  When I
owned my 109 for about a month I went down there and got horribly ripped off
(my fault, didn't know any better).  Gave the place the benefit of the doubt
and went back 2-3 months later.  Same thing happened.  I left the
merchandise on the counter and walked - never been back since.

Living in Seattle it makes since to go down there occasionally though.  Take
leaf springs for example.  For a 109 I would guess you're talking 150-200
pounds of steel for all 4.  I could have taken the 2.5 - 3 hours (RT) to go
down there, stick the springs in my car and be home w/o any shipping costs.
As a matter of principle I paid RN 50 bucks to send springs/shocks/odds&ends
out to me.

Look, just take your business elsewhere and you'll be much happier in the
long run.

Cheers,

Rich

----- Original Message -----
From: Lonn Howard <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA

The only reason that the guy who used to own my 109 sold it was because it
was SO expensive to maintain...  he had British Northwest do his work.  I've
got his old receipts.  I can't imagine paying what he did for the work
performed, but then, he didn't turn his own wrenches.  They do good work
evidently since they are still around, but it comes at a premium.  No
personal experience, however.

Since you are driving a 110 we can assume that you can afford the British
Northwest experience...

Good luck,
Lonn

> Can anyone provide feedback on the British Northwest Land Rover Company in
> Olympia, WA?  I am thinking of having them do some corrosion work and
> expedition preparation on my NAS 110.
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 26
Subject: Re: [lro] Feedback on British Northwest in Olympia WA
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 01 18:07:15 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Is that Cornflake's place? If so, from the stories I've heard, I'd stay 
>away.

I've heard lots of horror stories from people buying parts from him but 
he brings a rig or two to the Portland All British FIeld meet each year 
and everyone I have seen looked very nicely rebuilt.  They are about as 
nice looking as when they came from the factory (mind you I could not 
look inside the engine, gearbox etc to see the internals, but the body, 
paint & all the stuff looked first rate.

However these rebuilds take a lot of shop hours to do and his series 
vehicles seem to sell for in the neighborhood of $40K.

That said I would not buy any part from him without personally examining 
it first and not letting it out of my sight afterwards.  His work seems 
good but get a FIRM price for a job in writing before he starts and an 
agreement about how to handle unforseen problems.

I think you could get some excellent work out of the shop I just do not 
trust him.  No matter whom you go to, shop rates are not low.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

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