Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #190 - 32 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:09:40 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Re: series spring over (Jean-Leon Morin)
   2. Re: Re: What's new (John Cranfield)
   3. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (John Cranfield)
   4. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (John Cranfield)
   5. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Brian Horner)
   6. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Jean-Leon Morin)
   7. Re: LRO List User named JL? (Jean-Leon Morin)
   8. Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key) (KURT W. KRAUSS)
   9. Re: Idiot lights (Faure, Marin)
  10. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (John Cranfield)
  11. Re:  Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust (Faure, Marin)
  12. Re: Brake upgrades (Faure, Marin)
  13. Re: Keys (Faure, Marin)
  14. Keys (Edit 2)
  15. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Mark Pilkington)
  16. Re: Re: Keys (Keith Tanner)
  17. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (Jeff Bieler)
  18. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (Mark Pilkington)
  19. Rear cabin heaters (Edit 2)
  20. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (William J. Rice)
  21. Re: Rear cabin heaters (John Cranfield)
  22. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (John Cranfield)
  23. Re: What's new (Faure, Marin)
  24. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Hope Peter)
  25. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Alan J. Richer)
  26. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (David Scheidt)
  27. Re: Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust (N Forbes)
  28. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Jean-Leon Morin)
  29. Re: Re: What's new (N Forbes)
  30. Re: Re: Keys (N Forbes)
  31. Re: Re: What's new (Alan J. Richer)
  32. Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key) (Mark Freeman)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: series spring over
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:57:51 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Andre,

A 22RE powered 88" is a very definite possibility as a daily driver in a few
years... 5 speed, toyota axles, disc brakes, etc. It would however be a
totally street rover, with 235/75r15 AT's, no winch or off-road goodies, and
very little weight added.

The 109 is definitely NOT getting toyota axles as I have spent enough money
and time making the drivetrain work with rover offset axles, and am not
about to change everything over again. Toyotas have a CENTERED rear diff, at
least on the hiluxes and 4 runners. Lancruisers are offset, but there is no
way I'm putting cruiser axles on a rover. The ensuing parts-fight would
reduce the vehicle to a pile of dust.

 Plus, the rangie axles are already in the garage and a Toyota-rover has
been done by one of the techs at East Coast Rover. I don't like messing with
other people's ideas... The range rover axles have incredibly powerful
brakes, and they have the right bolt pattern.

Thanks for the suggestion, I just figure I'll like the wider RR axles
better.

>
> Jean-Leon,
> As I know your truck is more or less not very stock (or Rover) to begin
> with, I'd imagine that you wouldn't have too many issues with using non
> Rover parts.  If I was going to do a spring over on a Rover, here's what I
> would do.  1) Scrap the Rover axles because I think their number one
> advantage is the coils.  Therefore, if you are insistent on using them
then
> simply trim the fenders, then build lots of armor!  If you weren't going
to
> use them, I'd go with a better geared and stonger axle as this sounds like
> you do in fact want to use it for serious off-roading.  2) There is a
fairly
> easy setup that I think can accomidate your desires in one shot: early 80s
> Toyota 4x4 truck or 4Runner until until 85.  If it has the 22R 4 cyl then
it
> will have 4.11 gearing in it as well, sprung over from the factory, nearly
> equivalent in width axles, flat springs (which would also work *very well
> under a 109), strong axles with the exeption of the birfield, and they are
> even fairly closely offset to the Rover t-case.  Birfields can also be
> eliminated and/or strengthened.  One of these trucks, particluarly in
parts
> form can be had very cheaply.
>
> My $.02
> Good luck!
>
> Andre
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 18:04:59 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Mr Lauda is quite right but unfortunately the long term effect is that
the new drivers and perhaps pilots never develop the skills to cope with
emergencies.  They do not become exposed to the situations they might
face if every thing that might require a decision is automated.
John and Muddy

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
> 
> I asked Nikki Lauda, the founder of Lauda
> Air and a Formula 1 racing driver of some
> repute, what he felt is the value of all the automation
> we are putting in our airplanes today.  This was
> an interview I was conducting with him about the
> 777.  He said that automation fills the gap
> between very good pilots and not-so-good
> pilots.  While there are minimum requirements
> to be a pilot, it stands to reason that within
> the range of qualified airline pilots there
> are ones at the top of the list and ones at the
> bottom of the list.  They're not all great pilots.
> In fact, I know a couple of pilots for
> major airlines that I will not fly with, even
> though they meet the minimum requirements
> to qualify for the job.  It has nothing to do
> with their physical ability to fly the airplane,
> it has to do with their attitude and psychological
> approach to flying.
> 
> In an emergency, Nikki said, a really good
> pilot will be able to cope with the multitude of
> things he has to cope with and continue to fly
> the plane.  But a less-capable pilot in that same
> situation may become confused or befuddled by
> the multitude of things he has to deal with.  A
> good pilot could save the plane, where a mediocre
> pilot might lose the plane under the same
> circumstances.  By automating much of the airplane's
> functions, pilots don't have as many things to deal
> with when it all goes sour.  They can concentrate
> on the emergency itself while the plane, or the
> plane's automated systems, take care of the
> other stuff.  This means, Nikki said, that a
> mediocre or poor pilot has more of a chance
> of making it through the emergency than he would
> if he had to shoulder all the workload himself.
> 
> Cars are not airplanes, and an emergency in a
> car is generally not life-threatening.  But the same
> rules apply, in that all this automation in engines,
> suspensions, etc. removes the workload from the
> driver.  A driver who neglects basic maintenance
> no longer runs the risk of a vehicle failure because
> today's more sophisticated systems don't require
> the owner to remember anything about maintenance.
> Either a system doesn't need routine maintenance
> at all, or it's tied in with some elaborate warning
> system that tells the driver when something needs
> to be done.  Fancy automated, road-sensing
> suspension systems allow not-so-good drivers
> to get away with poor driving techniques, thus
> making them less of a risk to other drivers.  And
> so on.
> 
> So like today's jetliners, today's and tomorrow's
> vehicles will require less and less of the driver.
> Safety and performance will increase, but for
> some people, the fun of owning, driving, and
> working on a car will decrease.  I know 777
> and 747 pilots who during their vacations
> fly de Havilland Beavers
> for the floatplane service I am associated with.
> These guys, who make big bucks flying their
> airliners and pennies flying the Beavers, do it
> because, as they tell me, flying the floatplanes
> is REAL flying.  Flying an airliner is relatively
> boring unless something goes wrong, which it
> rarely does.  Enter some data, fly to LA.  Enter
> some more data, fly to London.  Nothing to it.
> I've flown the 777 full-motion simulator and
> made perfect, but automated, landings
> at a number of different airports in a number of
> different weather conditions, despite the fact
> I do not have a multi-engine rating and have
> never manually flown an airplane larger than
> a de Havilland Otter.
> 
> So if you have a Series Land Rover and enjoy
> "simply messing about in cars" to paraphrase Ratty
> (if any of you know who he is), hang onto it,
> because there's nothing new on the market
> that will give you the same challenge and
> satisfaction of keeping it running yourself.
> 
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 18:10:37 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
> with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.
> 
> Brian
> 
 Believe it they do and have been for 50 years. 
If your brakes won't stop the vehicle you don't need to do any major
mods just fix the system that is there now.
John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 18:14:00 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Have you tried using a smaller pulley on this alternator
I did this on the advise of the local auto electrical guy and it does
work.
John and Muddy

Kirk Hillman wrote:
> 
> DON'T get the SI 10, get the SI 12.  Fairly cheap you can upgrade to 140
> amps.  The SI 10 isn't anywhere near that, plus it's taxed if you go much
> beyond it's rated capacity.  I just put on a new SI 12 rated at 140 amps,
> including the splash shield (for marine applications).  It works great,
> especially for winching.  The only thing I would warn you about before hand
> is that it takes a little more to get it excited.  With my setup, I have to
> hit 1850 RPM after I start the engine or it doesn't start charging.  Also,
> because my truck idles so low (600), if I leave it to sit idling for a few
> minutes it seems to 'drop' until it no longer charges again.  The only times
> this is an issue is when I am crawling for a long time or let it sit at
> idle.  I couldn't be happier.
> 
> Kirk
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:17:25 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I will try - we'll see how it works.  Drum brakes are just a little weak
where it counts and that scares me. I am going to give them another "once
over" and see how much improvement I can get out of them.

Thanks for your input.

Brian

On 12/14/01 2:10 PM, "John Cranfield" <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> 
> I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
>> with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.
>> 
>> Brian
>> 
> Believe it they do and have been for 50 years.
> If your brakes won't stop the vehicle you don't need to do any major
> mods just fix the system that is there now.
> John and Muddy
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:19:04 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hmm.

Maybe I should have tried this... 

but since I got the disc axles already... 

J-L

----- Original Message ----- 
From: John Cranfield <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades

> 
>   I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
> > with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.
> > 
> > Brian
> > 
>  Believe it they do and have been for 50 years. 
> If your brakes won't stop the vehicle you don't need to do any major
> mods just fix the system that is there now.
> John and Muddy
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] LRO List User named JL?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:20:12 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> >Right now my land rover is a a bit of a hybrid so I figured going to
range
> >rover axles would be fitting - to try and keep as many parts on the
vehicle
> >non-series land rover. I am a bit of a nut.
>
> I think I just choked on my drink. This paragraph qualifies for
> "understatement of the year" in at least two places :)
>
> J-L's truck is an excellent ad for thinking outside the box.

Thanks for the kind words Keith. When are you do up here for X mas?

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:28:26 -0500
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Like Marin, I own a '73 NAS SIII with about 18,000 original miles.  The
ignition key and door keys are so similar in appearance and size that I
added a rubber boot around the head of ignition key.  I have no idea
whether the thing was rekeyed in the past 29 years, but to be honest,
I'm happy when it starts.
Kurt W. Krauss
1973 NAS SIII
2000 Discovery SII

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:28:06 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: Idiot lights
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: "Carter, Hal H" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:37:58 -0500
Subject: [lro] Idiot Lights
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Also, my engine light is on,
but I can find no faults with the engine.

My experience with the more modern Land Rover models 
is mostly with our 1991 Range Rover.  On that vehicle, the "check 
engine" light (or is it "service engine") comes on automatically every 
42,000 miles.  This is a reminder to check or change some of the 
emissions equipment.  On the Range Rover, the light is re-set by 
unplugging a little plastic cube from the electronics board under 
the passenger seat and sticking a paper clip or some such metal 
object through the hole in the top.  This shorts or jumps a couple 
of contacts inside the plastic cube, and that section of the warning 
light circuit is reset for the next 42,000 miles or so.

As the original Discovery is based on the Range Rover 
Classic in terms of engine, chassis, and driveline, I wouldn't 
be surprised if a lot of the circuitry, particularly for the engine, 
is the same.
_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 18:45:35 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If it helps to restore your confidence remember that all the large
trucks on the road are fitted with drum brakes!!!
John and Muddy

Brian Horner wrote:
> 
> I will try - we'll see how it works.  Drum brakes are just a little weak
> where it counts and that scares me. I am going to give them another "once
> over" and see how much improvement I can get out of them.
> 
> Thanks for your input.
> 
> Brian
> 
> On 12/14/01 2:10 PM, "John Cranfield" <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
> 
> >
> > I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
> >> with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.
> >>
> >> Brian
> >>
> > Believe it they do and have been for 50 years.
> > If your brakes won't stop the vehicle you don't need to do any major
> > mods just fix the system that is there now.
> > John and Muddy
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> >
> 
> ------------------------
> http://www.roverme.org
> "Land Rover community, links and email services."
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:47:26 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re:  Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Anybody have any observations about spraying stuff under the vehicle
with like WD-40 to arrest rust progress? Things like brake lines and 
junctions, starter motor...etc. I live in Chicago and they use a LOT of
salt here during the winter...any comments?

When we bought our first boat, a trailerable fishing boat, the 
dealer told me to go by a couple of spray cans of LPS-3.  
There are three "grades" of LPS.  LPS-1 is like WD-40.  
LPS-2 is a little heavier, and LPS-3 is the heaviest of all.  
Once or twice a year I give every bolt, washer, nut, wiring 
connection, spring and spring shackle a liberal dose of 
LPS-3.  The stuff clings to the metal and provides a 
protective coating against the saltwater when we launch 
the boat, but the coating remains flexible so doesn't chip off
with use.  I still hose off the trailer thoroughly after 
every launching, but the LPS-3 has kept the hardware 
relatively rust free since we bought the boat in 1987.  I 
have also used it on the spring and shackle bolts on 
my SIII.  The only 
real downside is that the LPS-3 remains gummy, 
and so holds whatever dirt gets on them.  The end result 
isn't very attractive, but I'm more interested in preserving 
the trailer than making it look nice.

I've known some people from the upper midwest over the 
years, and they've all bemoaned the damage done to vehicles 
by the salt and other chemicals they use on the roads out 
there.  Careful washing of the chassis with a power sprayer 
or the wand in a self-serve carwash will help, but most of 
them said they simply bought a cheap "junker" car to drive in the 
winter and simply let the salt do its damage.

It's a bad situation as some parts of the Series Land Rover, 
particularly the frame outriggers, the rear crossmember, and 
the bulkhead (firewall) are quite susceptible to rust, and will 
eat away fairly rapidly if exposed to a lot of salt-
saturated spray kicked up while driving in slushy 
conditions.

As usual, the best solutions are the most 
expensive, and those are to replace your frame with a 
galvanized frame, or have your frame and bulkhead 
stripped and dipped in heavy, protective paint.  As 
both of these require disassembling the vehicle, they're 
not exactly quick and easy solutions.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:03:35 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Off-road - I don't trust my brakes at all.
When I stop on super steep grades, going uphill or downhill, my rig actually
moves (ever so slightly) - millimeter by millimeter and that, to me, is just
unacceptable.

The experiences you are having with your brakes sound more like 
problems with your specific vehicle than faults with the design.  I'm 
the last one to defend the Series as having great brakes, but they 
are certainly adequate for the purposes for which the vehicle was 
designed.  I've never experienced brake "creep" as you are 
describing it except on the parking brake when it was not properly 
adjusted.  But the wheelbrakes on my SIII have been pretty much 
trouble-free all these years that I've owned it. 

I have had to 
replace or reline shoes, of course, and the plastic fluid reservoir 
crazed and cracked and had to be replaced after about 
six years.  On the advice of a Land Rover expert I knew 
in the '70s and '80s, I put a shroud around 
the new reservoir, and it is in as good a condition today as 
it was when I installed it over twenty years ago.  But outside of 
those couple of things, the brakes have always functioned as 
advertised.  

They are very prone to fading, and after one bad experience 
I wouldn't use the SIII to tow a heavy trailer again.  But for handling 
the basic vehicle, the brakes do okay IF you don't depend on making 
panic stops or other hard-braking maneuvers that we are all used to 
making in today's vehicles.  But if your wheelbrakes are not holding 
you on hills, then I think you need to go through your system and find 
out what's wrong.  Could be anything from a worn out master cylinder 
to worn out wheel cylinders to oil getting on the shoes or the drums.  
Could be a pinhole leak in a brake line, too.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:35:25 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: Keys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs
  key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>My '67 has three keys, as Gerry described. Ignition, front door and rear
door.

Interesting.  I've not come across a three-key Land Rover before. Is it a 
Station Wagon?  My SIII is a Hardtop Deluxe, and as such it uses only 
two keys, one for the ignition and one for the three doors.  I wonder if, 
given the factory's tinkertoy manufacturing techniques back then, they
assembled 
some vehicles with rear doors that had been perhaps earmarked for some other

vehicle.  Even we (Boeing) are not above grabbing something like a
windshield 
wiper motor off a plane on the assembly line and shooting it out to Seatac 
airport to replace a bad motor on an airline's airplane at a gate.  That
means 
another motor has to be hunted up to put on the plane on the line. Not 
that the windshield wiper motors are different, but if Land Rover was doing 
that sort of thing with doors every now and then, I can see how vehicles 
could end up with three keys, one for the ignition, one for the side doors, 
and one for the rear door that had been "appropriated" from somewhere 
else in the plant at the last minute.

Until at least 1992 when I was told this by the Solihull plant manager,
Land Rover does not build vehicles on spec.  In other words, when you 
walk down the assembly lines, every vehicle you see has been ordered.
That's not to say that Land Rover dealers don't order vehicles on spec 
to be put on the lot in the hopes that someone will buy them.  But as 
far as the factory itself is concerned, every vehicle they build is an
ordered 
vehicle.  However, orders can change, and when they do, there can be a bunch

of scrambling around on the line to accommodate the change.  
Series Land Rovers (like Defenders) were built on one line.  
So the first vehicle might be an 88 pickup, 
the next one a 109 Station Wagon, the next one an 88 Hardtop, 
the next one an MOD 
high-capacity 109, and so on.  If 
an order was switched from a Hardtop to a Station Wagon, for instance,
everyone 
ran around to find the parts necessary to change the vehicle on the line.
So I 
can see under this sort of "organization" how a partially assembled vehicle 
could suddenly acquire a Station Wagon rear door where a two-piece tailgate
had 
been the original plan.

Speculation, of course, but certainly possible.  Based on what I've observed

on the Land Rover line in the past, and the guys I've talked to that worked
on 
the Series line, it's amazing to me that every lock on the vehicle didn't
come 
with its own individual key, or that the keys that came with the vehicle 
matched the locks at all. For a long time, door locks were considered 
a luxury option on the Land Rover line, and many of the earlier vehicles 
were delivered without any locks at all, only latches.  Utility vehicle 
thievery was not much of a problem back in the '40s and '50s, as 
4wds were looked on as "farm" vehicles and were the last thing 
anyone would want to steal, let alone be seen driving around in.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 00:55:43 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Keys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Of course if the locks have been changed at any time, then the new ones
would have different keys?
Just a thought...

Adrian Redmond

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Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:05:02 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I do not know what my brakes were like before I rebuilt them because they were
completely shafted. I removed all the parts of the brakes except the actual hard
brake line. I replaced all the slave cylinders and seals, the master cylinder
and all its guts, all the shoes and even lightly sanded and cleaned the drums.
After a little messing about with misplaced backing plate springs (Thank you
John Cranfield) I had brakes. I adjusted the shoes so they "just" dragged on the
hand turned drum and left it at that.  I have 10 inch rims and 32x11.5 by 15's
BF Goodrichs on it all round and I can skid it on a dry road.  If they are all
set up right, you do not need to go to Discs even though discs would be nice
because they stay good longer  and need less maintenance.
Get the parts from the Land Rover Supermarket in England and it will only cost
you a few hundred bucks.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

"Faure, Marin" wrote:

> Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
> From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
>
> >Off-road - I don't trust my brakes at all.
> When I stop on super steep grades, going uphill or downhill, my rig actually
> moves (ever so slightly) - millimeter by millimeter and that, to me, is just
> unacceptable.
>
> The experiences you are having with your brakes sound more like
> problems with your specific vehicle than faults with the design.  I'm
> the last one to defend the Series as having great brakes, but they
> are certainly adequate for the purposes for which the vehicle was
> designed.  I've never experienced brake "creep" as you are
> describing it except on the parking brake when it was not properly
> adjusted.  But the wheelbrakes on my SIII have been pretty much
> trouble-free all these years that I've owned it.
>
> I have had to
> replace or reline shoes, of course, and the plastic fluid reservoir
> crazed and cracked and had to be replaced after about
> six years.  On the advice of a Land Rover expert I knew
> in the '70s and '80s, I put a shroud around
> the new reservoir, and it is in as good a condition today as
> it was when I installed it over twenty years ago.  But outside of
> those couple of things, the brakes have always functioned as
> advertised.
>
> They are very prone to fading, and after one bad experience
> I wouldn't use the SIII to tow a heavy trailer again.  But for handling
> the basic vehicle, the brakes do okay IF you don't depend on making
> panic stops or other hard-braking maneuvers that we are all used to
> making in today's vehicles.  But if your wheelbrakes are not holding
> you on hills, then I think you need to go through your system and find
> out what's wrong.  Could be anything from a worn out master cylinder
> to worn out wheel cylinders to oil getting on the shoes or the drums.
> Could be a pinhole leak in a brake line, too.
>
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:09:33 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Keys
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Interesting.  I've not come across a three-key Land Rover before. Is it a
>Station Wagon?

Yes. All the keys appear to be the same age, but it really is hard to tell 
after 34 years. This truck also has the factory LSD in the rear.

It sounds as if the LR factoy is barely-controlled chaos. Or perhaps just 
chaos.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:20:58 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Ron, I didn't mean you added it.  It's obviously been there a while.  I
think the original owner may have had it updated.  I don't think the MkIV
was out when it was made in '64.

As for the windshield vents, they both work, but most of the air takes the
path of least resistance to the passenger side before it makes it's way to
the drivers side.  I'm pretty sure they are all like that.

Jeff

on 12/14/01 6:09 AM, RON WARD at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Jeff,
> 
> I believe that Kodiak is original to that truck.  Check the hose running to
> the drivers side for an obstruction.
> 
> Ron
> 
>>>> [email-masked] 12/13/01 12:51PM >>>
> 
> I have a MkIV Kodiak in my '65 88" IIA rag top.  I assume it's a retrofit by
> a previous PO as I don't think the MkIV was out in '65.
> 
> Anyway, I haven't been in temps below 30oF so far.  I generally run the
> heater without the fan.  Air forced in via the front vent over the core is
> hot enough to heat the cabin up right quick.  I fan is too much after a
> short time. 
> 
> The only thing I haven't been able to get it to do is to defrost the drivers
> (LHD) windshield quickly, though it will do the passenger side fast enough.
> I might try to create a control to divert all the air into the drivers side
> vent.
> 
> Jeff  
> 
>> Bruce Wachal wrote:
>> 
>>> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
>>> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,how do they work,what so they
>>> look like,are they effective in extreme weather?
>>> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Epsilon.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:37:05 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff,
    Stick a plastic gauze pan scrubber down your passenger side air vent and the
air will come out of them a bit more evenly.  In the planes we sell, we get vents
in the wings with these scrubbers in them to stop the 150 MPH arctic blast in
flight.  The vents are just holes in the leading edge of the wing with a flexible
tube to the vent inside the cabin.  The scrubber must be plastic or it will rust
and it serves the double purpose in a plane of stopping small creatures creeping
in there.
Just a thought.  I have a Kodiak too.  Same problem.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

Jeff Bieler wrote:

> Ron, I didn't mean you added it.  It's obviously been there a while.  I
> think the original owner may have had it updated.  I don't think the MkIV
> was out when it was made in '64.
>
> As for the windshield vents, they both work, but most of the air takes the
> path of least resistance to the passenger side before it makes it's way to
> the drivers side.  I'm pretty sure they are all like that.
>
> Jeff
>
> on 12/14/01 6:09 AM, RON WARD at [email-masked] wrote:
>
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > I believe that Kodiak is original to that truck.  Check the hose running to
> > the drivers side for an obstruction.
> >
> > Ron
> >
> >>>> [email-masked] 12/13/01 12:51PM >>>
> >
> > I have a MkIV Kodiak in my '65 88" IIA rag top.  I assume it's a retrofit by
> > a previous PO as I don't think the MkIV was out in '65.
> >
> > Anyway, I haven't been in temps below 30oF so far.  I generally run the
> > heater without the fan.  Air forced in via the front vent over the core is
> > hot enough to heat the cabin up right quick.  I fan is too much after a
> > short time.
> >
> > The only thing I haven't been able to get it to do is to defrost the drivers
> > (LHD) windshield quickly, though it will do the passenger side fast enough.
> > I might try to create a control to divert all the air into the drivers side
> > vent.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >> Bruce Wachal wrote:
> >>
> >>> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
> >>> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,how do they work,what so they
> >>> look like,are they effective in extreme weather?
> >>> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Epsilon.
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:48:27 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked], UK Land Rover owners list
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Rear cabin heaters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have this idea that the series III stock heater (and the Defender for
that matter) would be OK - IF there was another unit to handle the rear
cabin.

I have been thinking about a modification to my trucks, starting with
the 109" as an experiment.

Mount a stock heater coil and fan under the offside (LHD) seat block,
close to just behind the passenger seat, but under the part of the
wheel-arch which is away from the wheel.

Feed this with insulated copper pipe (CuFlex) from the existing cooling
system - probably with a valve to isolate this circuit if needed.

Let output side of heater coil feed directly into the rear cabin. Cover
and insulate the exterior installation.

And of course add an extra air intake for the fan - though possible
somewhere "out of sight"

Has anyone tried this?

Our other film crew have just completed 11 days through Poland, Czech
Rep, Slovakia, Hungary where the weather is in the minus 10-20 celcius
range. Their telephone calls home have usually included a clear report
that the heater in the Defender 100 CSW is totally inadequate below
freezing point.

To be honest I'm amazed that the heating in such a new vehicle is so
lousy - as I wrote in a previous posting, you can freeze your b**ls off
at the same time as burning your hand when fumbling in the instrument
tray - my bet is that the heater is good enough, but that most of the
heat is wasted on the firewall, as the instrument and dash is so nicely
insulated!

We used to have a VWLT35 bus - with a high hardtop, and this had an
after market water and fan heater on the floor in the back - similar to
what i propose for the rovers, but using internal air rather than
external air - in other words it was hot in the winter but useless for
cooling. Maybe that would be a better idea?

Suggestions, experience (good and bad) welcome...

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
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---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 20
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:13:22 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

(John Cranfield) writes:
> 
> If it helps to restore your confidence remember that all the large
> trucks on the road are fitted with drum brakes!!!

Yeah, and on big hills they have escape ramps for them ;-)  Just saw a
freshly used one on I-70 just west of Eisenhower tunnel yesterday.  Kind
of scary to think about hitting that w/ 40k lbs. of cargo behind you . .
.

bill

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:37:31 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Rear cabin heaters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

This quite common here in Canada even on 88s. Usually the rear heater is
not drawing out side air just for simplicty of installation. On one trip
about 10 years ago I used the one in my series IIa 88 to dry out a lad
who had fallen into a river when the temperature was about -20F. He and
his parents were quite glad that my Rover was warm.
One thing to bear in mind when plumbing the system is to avoid a simple
T connection for the rear. You will need to feed the rear  after the
main heater in series to get the hotest coolant in the front.
With the upgrade to my series III heater I don't really need rear cabin
heat even in the 109.
John and Muddy  

Edit 2 wrote:
> 
> I have this idea that the series III stock heater (and the Defender for
> that matter) would be OK - IF there was another unit to handle the rear
> cabin.
> 
> I have been thinking about a modification to my trucks, starting with
> the 109" as an experiment.
> 
> Mount a stock heater coil and fan under the offside (LHD) seat block,
> close to just behind the passenger seat, but under the part of the
> wheel-arch which is away from the wheel.
> 
> Feed this with insulated copper pipe (CuFlex) from the existing cooling
> system - probably with a valve to isolate this circuit if needed.
> 
> Let output side of heater coil feed directly into the rear cabin. Cover
> and insulate the exterior installation.
> 
> And of course add an extra air intake for the fan - though possible
> somewhere "out of sight"
> 
> Has anyone tried this?
> 
> Our other film crew have just completed 11 days through Poland, Czech
> Rep, Slovakia, Hungary where the weather is in the minus 10-20 celcius
> range. Their telephone calls home have usually included a clear report
> that the heater in the Defender 100 CSW is totally inadequate below
> freezing point.
> 
> To be honest I'm amazed that the heating in such a new vehicle is so
> lousy - as I wrote in a previous posting, you can freeze your b**ls off
> at the same time as burning your hand when fumbling in the instrument
> tray - my bet is that the heater is good enough, but that most of the
> heat is wasted on the firewall, as the instrument and dash is so nicely
> insulated!
> 
> We used to have a VWLT35 bus - with a high hardtop, and this had an
> after market water and fan heater on the floor in the back - similar to
> what i propose for the rovers, but using internal air rather than
> external air - in other words it was hot in the winter but useless for
> cooling. Maybe that would be a better idea?
> 
> Suggestions, experience (good and bad) welcome...
> 
> :-)
> 
> Adrian Redmond
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
> Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
> ---------------------------------------------------
> telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
> telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
> telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
> mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
> e-mail                       [email-masked]
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:39:33 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

But when you think of just how many trucks there are out there, there
are very few that get into trouble.
John and Muddy

"William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> (John Cranfield) writes:
> >
> > If it helps to restore your confidence remember that all the large
> > trucks on the road are fitted with drum brakes!!!
> 
> Yeah, and on big hills they have escape ramps for them ;-)  Just saw a
> freshly used one on I-70 just west of Eisenhower tunnel yesterday.  Kind
> of scary to think about hitting that w/ 40k lbs. of cargo behind you . .
> .
> 
> bill
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:51:51 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The "simple" Subaru has problems when it has to go from 4000' to 
10600' altitude, it's grouchy when cold, doesn't give me much information 
about the operating state of the engine and is generally a less reliable 
automobile.

I will be the first one to say that technology, be it electronics, 
computers, or whatever, can make machines perform a hell of 
a lot better and be a hell of a lot more reliable. The 777 is about 
a billion times more complicated than the DC-3, or to use a 
comparison plane we built, the B-17.  But romance aside, 
the 777 is about a billion times more reliable than either one 
of them.  The difference is that while the DC-3 and the B-17 
crapped out a lot, they could be repaired by mechanics with 
rudimentary skills using rudimentary tools.  Like 
the Model A Ford, because almost anyone could fix them, 
they now have this image of simplicity and reliability.

In fact, however, they weren't very reliable because the 
technology of the day wasn't very reliable.  The 777, 
despite it's staggering complexity, is extremely reliable 
because the technology employed rarely breaks.  But 
when it does break, it requires mechanics with college 
degrees and/or a real understanding of electronics and 
computers and software to fix it.  The guy with the box 
full of screwdrivers and feeler gauges isn't going to have 
a clue what to do.  So to lay people like 
us, the 777 is seen as less reliable and harder to fix 
than the "good old DC-3" which "never broke down." 
In fact, those old planes broke down a lot.

(For you doubters, the average airline utilization 
of a DC-3 in its heyday was perhaps three or 
four hours a day, four or five days a week
depending on the weather. I know of airlines that fly 
their 777s 16-18 hours a day, 365 days a year. That's 
flying time, not flying plus waiting at the gate time.  And in 
the case of China Southern, who uses their 777s nonstop 
across the Pacific, they did this for the first year with a 
total of TWO malfunctions that caused a flight delay.  
Two malfunctions in one year of flying the most 
complex airplane in the world 16 hours a day, 
every day.  That's what technology 
can do for you.)

Same with cars.  My Series III has been extremely 
reliable in terms of breaking down or failing to start.  More 
reliable, in fact, than my much more modern BMW or 
Ford pickup.  But the only reason the Series has this 
great reliability record for the past 28 years is because 
I was willing to put in the virtually continuous maintenance 
that was required to keep it that way.  If I had put the same 
amount of time and effort into maintaining the Series as 
I do the BMW, the Ford, and the Range Rover, the 
Series would have crapped out a lot.  It 
probably wouldn't even be drivable today given that 
little amount of attention required by the newer vehicles.

And as Mr. Tanner points out, the very newest cars are 
far more reliable, albeit complex, than my 1980s era 
BMW and Ford.  If what you want is to drive from 
point A to point B and never have to worry about messing 
with the machine, today's cars are fabulous (most of them).  
But  forget about working on them yourself 
unless you understand electronics, automotive computers, and 
have the necessary tools and diagnostic devices to trouble-
shoot and fix them.

You can't have it both ways.  You can have Tab A 
into Slot B simplicity, like the old Series Land Rover, but 
you give up efficient and trouble-free performance.  Or 
you can use all sorts of high-tech stuff like variable valve 
timing, active road-sensing suspension, and traction 
control to achieve high levels of efficient performance 
and never-think-about-it reliability.

The absolute best car I've ever driven in terms of ride, 
performance (for a normal road car) and user 
friendly features was the brand new Citroen C-5 
I rented in France the other month.  If they are 
as reliable as modern technology can be 
made to be these days, and if they sent them to the 
US and had good dealer support, I'd buy one for 
my daily commuter car.  For that task, I want 
a car that's fun to drive, has all kinds of cool 
features that make being in the car an enjoyable 
experience, and is something I don't even have 
to think about maintenance-wise except 
every 100,000 miles or so.  But if it broke, 
I'd be up the creek in terms of fixing it.  When 
I opened the hood of the C-5, I didn't recognize
a thing.

The Series Land Rover is slow, noisy, not very 
comfortable, and driving it is simply hastening 
the moment when you'll have to fix or adjust 
something.  The difference is that even though 
like the DC-3 it's going to have some sort of a 
problem soon, I know I can fix that problem, 
whatever it happens to be.  I am in control of 
my automotive destiny in the Series, where I 
am not in the C-5.

The bottom line is that those of us with our 
Land Rovers are, along with the folks in the 
antique and classic car clubs, the dinosaurs 
of the automotive world.  We're the DC-3 
guys.  DC-3s are cool old planes, 
and everyone loves to see, hear, and ride 
in them.  But even though they're great old 
machines, no one will ever build a new one.  
They're simply not practical anymore.  Using 
technology to improve efficiency, performance, 
and reliability is where it's at, and frankly I'm 
glad of it.  I have no intention of getting 
rid of my Series because it still does the job 
I need it to do and I actually enjoy working 
on it.  But if they were still making 
brand new Series Land Rovers today exactly
the way they made them in the 1970s, there's no 
way in hell I would buy one.  Given what you can 
do with technology today, I wouldn't want the 
hassle of keeping the thing running.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 17:53:14 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>   I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
> with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.

Even with my half ton o-frame I can still lock up all four wheels on dry
pavement.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 18:12:31 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> >   I just can't believe that people in Series
> vehicles go off-road
> > with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to
> redo mine...again.
> 

Never had a problem with well-sorted Series brakes on
any of them I've ever driven. Mr. Churchill (my 109)
has hauled full loads of this that and evertyhing
else, including an entire garden shed shingles and all
(collapsed) and never had a stopping problem. 

Ditto Miss Jess - even with the single-port system
I've never had a problem stopping her either on or off
road.

When I had the pleasure of driving Dick Joltes'
Smudger in the UK for a week I damn-near put myself
through the windscreen a few times - that boosted
system is almost overkill in a Lightweight.

Honestly, from the sound of it I'd suspect you've got
problems in the system itself - glazed shoes or the
like. Dumb question - when you did your last brake job
where did you get the shoes? Sounds like it could also
be a very hard lining material.....

             ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:45:59 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 14 Dec 2001, John Cranfield wrote:

> 
> If it helps to restore your confidence remember that all the large
> trucks on the road are fitted with drum brakes!!!
> John and Muddy
> 

really big, air-assited brakes.  Lots of them have compression brakes, as
well.  However, the stock Land-Rover brakes should lock up the wheels on dry
pavement.  

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:26:09 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Rust Check (tm). Possibly only available in Canada.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

--__--__--

Message: 28
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:30:40 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Alan J. Richer <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades

> 
> > >   I just can't believe that people in Series
> > vehicles go off-road
> > > with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to
> > redo mine...again.
> > 
> 
> Never had a problem with well-sorted Series brakes on
> any of them I've ever driven. Mr. Churchill (my 109)
> has hauled full loads of this that and evertyhing
> else, including an entire garden shed shingles and all
> (collapsed) and never had a stopping problem. 
> 
> Ditto Miss Jess - even with the single-port system
> I've never had a problem stopping her either on or off
> road.
> 
> When I had the pleasure of driving Dick Joltes'
> Smudger in the UK for a week I damn-near put myself
> through the windscreen a few times - that boosted
> system is almost overkill in a Lightweight.
> 
> Honestly, from the sound of it I'd suspect you've got
> problems in the system itself - glazed shoes or the
> like. Dumb question - when you did your last brake job
> where did you get the shoes? Sounds like it could also
> be a very hard lining material.....
> 
>              ajr
> 
> =====
> Please ignore the following advertising.....
> Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
> your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
> or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:39:07 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Marin, are you trying to say not every commercial airline pilot could have 
landed that Air Transat 'glider' in the Azores?  ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Keys
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:58:26 +0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keep in mind that Euro and NAS SIIIs do not have the same kind of locking 
mechanism. Those found on Euros SIII models are more like what's found on 
late IIa's (i.e. lock cylinder is in the open handle area, not in a hole in 
the door skin).

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:03:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- N Forbes <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Marin, are you trying to say not every commercial
> airline pilot could have 
> landed that Air Transat 'glider' in the Azores?  ;-)
> 

Or Air Canada's infamous Gimli Glider.....

      aj"whaddya mean pounds don't equal kilograms?"r

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "Mark Freeman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:24:44 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Recent discussions regarding differences between  SIII ignition and door
keys has prompted me add  my experiences with these keys.  I have found with
three separate US market Series III that the  door key and ignition keys
differ only in the shape of the hand held portion of the key the key blank
that is cut to fit the tumblers are identical.

The other empirical evidence of the this sameness can be found at a lock
shop where they will cut both the door key and the ignition key from either
the square or rectangular blanks.

>>Does anyone else on this list have a SIII with keys such as Marin
describes?

Not me.

Best Regards,

Mark Freeman
Sedalia, Missouri
Series vehicles beyond what reasonable people would do.

--__--__--

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End of LRO Digest