Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #188 - 40 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:07:37 -0500 (EST)

Send LRO mailing list submissions to
	[email-masked]

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	[email-masked]

You can reach the person managing the list at
	[email-masked]

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of LRO digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Power Brakes  ;o) (apsilon)
   2. Re: Starter button vs key (G. Mugele)
   3. RE: KODIAK HEATERS (Easton Trevor A)
   4. Re: interior door panels (Steve Mace)
   5. Re: Power Brakes  ;o) (John Cranfield)
   6. Re: Loose differential pinion (John Cranfield)
   7. Re: Series spring over. (Phil Norris)
   8. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (Paul Quin)
   9. Brake upgrades (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  10. Re: 88' Gross weight (Hope Peter)
  11. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Paul)
  12. Re: Starter button vs key (Keith Tanner)
  13. RE: 88' Gross weight (Easton Trevor A)
  14. Kodiak Heaters (Simon J. Harding)
  15. Re: Brake upgrades ([email-masked])
  16. Re: Starter button vs key (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  17. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (Mark Pilkington)
  18. Re: Series spring over. (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  19. Re: Starter button vs key (Rich Williams)
  20. Re:Series Spring over (Rick and Laura Lamb)
  21. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (Jeff Bieler)
  22. oil filter troubles (David Scheidt)
  23. Re: oil filter troubles (Rich Williams)
  24. Re: 88' Gross weight (Hope Peter)
  25. PTO snow blower (Hope Peter)
  26. Re: oil filter troubles (Alan J. Richer)
  27. Re: Series spring over. (Jean-Leon Morin)
  28. Re: oil filter troubles (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  29. Re: oil filter troubles (Jeff Bieler)
  30. Re: 88' Gross weight (Jean-Leon Morin)
  31. What's new? (Edit 2)
  32. Re: What's new? (Keith Tanner)
  33. Re: What's new? (Jim Laurel)
  34. Re: What's new? (Edit 2)
  35. Re: What's new? (Edit 2)
  36. What's new part 2 (Edit 2)
  37. RE: PTO snow blower (Easton Trevor A)
  38. RE: What's new part 2 (Easton Trevor A)
  39. Re: What's new part 2 (Jim Laurel)
  40. stripping (Richard Joltes)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "apsilon" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Power Brakes  ;o)
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:26:49 +1100
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Has anyone upgraded a Series III 88" to power brakes?

I'm in the process of doing a full brake upgrade for my '75 series III 88.
I'm waiting on parts so it won't be finsihed until at least mid Jan I
suspect :(.

My upgrade consists of going to tandem lines using a new master cylinder for
a 109, an 8" booster, new front discs and moving the stock front drums to
the rear. It's going to need some testing and tuning but it should stop
nicely. Certainly better than the current unassisted single line system. All
up parts cost will be about AUD$2000 (about US$1000).

I'll be putting up a write up and photos on my site during the install and
will keep the list up to date.

Matt.
Sydney Australia
'75 Series III 88

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 02:12:31 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 4:36 PM -0800 12/12/01, Faure, Marin wrote:
>It's interesting how trends come and go.  One of the
>car manufacturers, I can't remember which one, is
>making a big deal out of the fact that one of
>their new models starts by pushing a button,
>"just like the great sports cars of yesterday" to
>paraphrase their ad.  I think it might be Jaguar,
>come to think of it.

Honda, the 2000S I believe.... that newish roadster pretending to be 
ready for the track.
Interestingly BMW, as we know perpetually fad conscious and gimmick 
crazed, uses this feature in the new 745i.  But then that car is 
seriously odd in many other ways as well; looks as though some 
Citroen engineers went to Munich to play a few tricks.

I always rather liked the started button on me 67 88" and on my Mini. 
Even so I don't think I would scrap the key switch starter.

>Based on my experience with my SIII,
>the ignition key is not the same cut as the
>door key, so you won't be adding another
>key to the ring by replacing a bad ignition
>switch with a new one.

Huh?  The ignition and the door locks required different keys on the 
SIII but they are otherwise the same key.  When the look the same it 
makes it so much more fun to find the correct key to unlock the door 
in the rain.  I always suspected this was one of British-Leyland's 
little jokes.   I don't think that there is any reason that they 
can't be keyed the same.  All you need is the correct barrel and/or a 
decent locksmith.

_________________________________________
G. Mugele
(original owner)
1995 Land Rover D90
1992 Mitsubishi Montero SR
1983 MB 240D
2002 MB ML320
Glen Ellen  (I don't actually own it though)
Land Rover owner since C. Marin was still in High School
_________________________________________

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 07:22:06 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
Yes
I've never seen one. Where do they mount,
On top of footwell.
how do they work,
well
what so they
look like,
A steel box
are they effective in extreme weather?
Yes
Does anyone know a good place to get one?
Out of a Canadian Land Rover.

Seriously though. They are a very effective heater when running properly.
Nothing really special about them. A fan, a heat transfer matrix and some
duct work. I believe Rovers North sells a clone for some astronomical price.
The construction of a similar unit shouldn't be beyond the skills of someone
mildly familiar with sheet metalwork.

--__--__--

Message: 4
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:51:12 -0000
Subject: Re: [lro] interior door panels
Reply-To: [email-masked]

This summer gone I fitted Series (2 piece) doors to by Defender 90 
and used sections of 4-bar tread plate to cover the inside of the 
doors: A bit Laura (but I did it first). Looks very butch (!) and a lot 
harder wearing than the after market door liners I tried.

Fixed using pop rivets.
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
http://www.solwise.co.uk
http://www.asuscom.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:13:36 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Power Brakes  ;o)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Most of not all NAS series III were fitted with power and dual circuit
brakes from the factory.
So if yours is not so fitted it is possible to do so.
How ever if your brakes are horrible a complete overhaul to return them
to as new condition will make you think you are in different vehicle.
When new the Series III was not concidered to have bad brakes but like
all drum brakes does require more maintainance than modern systems.
John and Muddy
Brian Horner wrote:
> 
> Has anyone upgraded a Series III 88" to power brakes?  I saw a article on
> TeriAnns site about her upgrading to dual power brakes on her 109.  Has
> anyone else done this? Was it expensive? Was it worth it?  My brakes are
> just horrible and would love to have something more dependable.  I am
> wondering if a Defender brake system would work?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brian "Yet another question" Horner
> 
> ------------------------
> http://www.roverme.org
> "Land Rover community, links and email services."
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:32:40 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Loose differential pinion
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You can try to improve things by removing the drive shaft and the flange
from the diff. Pullout the bearing to see if there are shims behind it.
If there are, remove one or two and reassemble the bearing and flange
and see if the movement has gone but the pinion still rotates smoothly.

If you find no shims there you will have to pull the diff right out so
you can get at the entire pinion.
What you need to do is reduce the distance between the two pinion
bearings without changing the position of the pinion in relation to the
crown wheel
John and Muddy

joe mulqueen wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> The front dif pinion on my SIIA has been a little
> loose (side to side) for a long time.  I'm surprised
> the oil seal has held up (yes it does have oil in
> it!).  I don't often use 4wd and when I do there are
> no sounds up front but I'd like to correct this
> problem.  Is it fairly easy or should the entire dif
> be torn down?
> Thanks, I appreciate the help!
> Joe Mulqueen
> '67 SIIA 109
> Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
> your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
> or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 7
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Series spring over.
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:47:52 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Would the spring pads line up w/o further work, anyone know?
I fancy this as my far-off built-from-the-ground-up L-R toy, when I've the
time and money to do it... ;~))
PhilN
-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Date: 13 December 2001 00:45
Subject: Re: [lro] Series spring over.

>
>>The most common thing amongst rock rigs (other than
>>fender trimming) is to fit wider axles to their machines... This increases
>>the basewidth of their vehicle, and makes the tires stick out of the body,
>>and increases stability. That's one of the major ideas behind putting the
>>wider coiler axles on the rover.
>
>I have a friend who's is selling front and rear 101 axle assemblies if
>you want width plus strength.  The 101 assemblies are the stongest
>available on any Land Rover, while the coiler swivel ball assemblies are
>much lighter duty than stock series swivel assemblies.
>
>Why go half way?
>
>TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
>Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
>[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
>http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
>
>"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
>Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 06:45:49 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm pretty sure the Wise Owl has one listed for sale in their latest flyer
right now.

www.wiseowlpart.com

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Easton Trevor A" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 4:22 AM
Subject: RE: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS

>
> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
> Yes
> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,
> On top of footwell.
> how do they work,
> well
> what so they
> look like,
> A steel box
> are they effective in extreme weather?
> Yes
> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
> Out of a Canadian Land Rover.
>
> Seriously though. They are a very effective heater when running properly.
> Nothing really special about them. A fan, a heat transfer matrix and some
> duct work. I believe Rovers North sells a clone for some astronomical
price.
> The construction of a similar unit shouldn't be beyond the skills of
someone
> mildly familiar with sheet metalwork.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:33:43 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Brian Horner <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Has anyone upgraded a Series III 88" to power brakes?  I saw a article on
>TeriAnns site about her upgrading to dual power brakes on her 109.  Has
>anyone else done this? Was it expensive? Was it worth it?  My brakes are
>just horrible and would love to have something more dependable.  I am
>wondering if a Defender brake system would work?

Robert Davis has developed a replacement stainless steel master cylinder
(Lockheed parts, I think) with a remote booster.  I've driven one of his
109's and done smokin', arrow-straight, hands-off-the-wheel stops from 45
mph on a wet road with this system.  Amazing.

The Series III 88 should have fairly good brakes, though.  Not the best in
the world, surely, but I've never found them 'bad'.  Then again, I've owned
the vehicle since new, and the only person who as ever touched the brake
system is me.

On another note, has anyone ever taken the servo assembly apart?  I've been
meaning to do an autopsy on an old unit, but it is one of those "round
tuits" that I seem to have so many of....

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 88' Gross weight
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 07:33:09 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Miss G, IIA 88" SW weighed in at 3600lbs exactly with Marsland Chassis,
Half
> tank of gas, Tools, shackles and high lift on board.
>

The Aloha Rover came in at 3981lbs with 1/2 tank and nothing else on board.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 15:50:21 GMT
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In article <[email-masked], Easton 
Trevor A wrote:
> NOW, a nice bank of NiCads, hmmmm 3000 CCA should get that starter really
> humming.
>
Yes, and when you get thermal runaway it will burn/melt your truck!

 They are not light either..
 
Paul Lonsdale

EX-H.M.Coastguard SIII SWB
B895 OJT "Dougal"

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:47:34 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Honda, the 2000S I believe.... that newish roadster pretending to be ready 
>for the track.
>Interestingly BMW, as we know perpetually fad conscious and gimmick 
>crazed, uses this feature in the new 745i.  But then that car is seriously 
>odd in many other ways as well; looks as though some Citroen engineers 
>went to Munich to play a few tricks.

Bentley has had one for some time, predating the current enthusiasm that 
was triggered by the S2000. It's actually quite popular to fit a starter 
button to various imports at the moment.

My 67 Rover has one. The 63 Lotus Seven I drove had one. I like them 
because they're fun - so my 1990 Miata has one :)

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 13
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'Hope Peter '" <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked] '"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] 88' Gross weight
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 11:24:04 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 I guess you should have clean off some of the mud before you weighed her.

-----Original Message-----
From: Hope Peter
To: [email-masked]
Sent: 12/13/01 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] 88' Gross weight

> Miss G, IIA 88" SW weighed in at 3600lbs exactly with Marsland
Chassis,
Half
> tank of gas, Tools, shackles and high lift on board.
>

The Aloha Rover came in at 3981lbs with 1/2 tank and nothing else on
board.
Pete
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Simon J. Harding" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:24:31 -0800
Subject: [lro] Kodiak Heaters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

They are the God-Kings of heat for a rover.  I have a Mk.III in my 109.
However, it at best takes the edge off in the back of my 109 and so I'll be
adding an aux heater.  TerriAnn's site has some info and so does the OVLR
site.  The site Ike Goss set up with the photos is very helpful for heater
ID. Consider using a heater from an old Scout.  they are similar and can be
had in a junkyard for a lot less than a kodiak.
Simon

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 11:42:18 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Brake upgrades
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 12/13/01 10:38:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> On another note, has anyone ever taken the servo assembly apart?  I've been
> meaning to do an autopsy on an old unit, but it is one of those "round
> tuits" that I seem to have so many of....
> 
> 

I had a conversation with a local guy who has a business working on British, 
German and Italian cars only (facinating parking lot).  He has taken apart 
Land Rover brake servos and tried to repair them.  He said he had about 50% 
success.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 16
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 01 08:28:20 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>It's interesting how trends come and go.  One of the
>car manufacturers, I can't remember which one, is
>making a big deal out of the fact that one of
>their new models starts by pushing a button,
>"just like the great sports cars of yesterday" to
>paraphrase their ad.  I think it might be Jaguar,
>come to think of it.

My Triumph TR3 has a seperate push button starter as does my Series II 
Land Rover.

Remember positive earth LRs had a seperate push button starter.  It's 
kinds fun watching a long time neg earth LR owner sit in my LR & not know 
how to start it.

>Based on my experience with my SIII,
>the ignition key is not the same cut as the
>door key, so you won't be adding another
>key to the ring by replacing a bad ignition
>switch with a new one.

The lock barrels are removable.  When I upgraded to anti burst door 
latches I got three barrels from British Pacific that all took the same 
key.  I put one each in the doors & one in the ignition switch.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 09:12:27 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have one in my Land Rover.  The ducts are not on it that go to the
windshield so there are two hole sticking up and the side vent. It is too
hot to put your hand in front of when it is on. The water is being heated
by a bigger engine though, so it might be different with the 2.25.  There
is a kit and instructions to fit one that someone put on this list a few
weeks ago.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

Bruce Wachal wrote:

> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,how do they work,what so they
> look like,are they effective in extreme weather?
> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
> Thanks,
>
> Epsilon.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 18
Subject: Re: [lro] Series spring over.
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 01 08:47:29 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Would the spring pads line up w/o further work, anyone know?
>I fancy this as my far-off built-from-the-ground-up L-R toy, when I've the
>time and money to do it... ;~))

Contact the seller and ask.

Michael Slade, [email-masked]

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 19
From: "Rich Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 09:17:27 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

All of my dad's Jaguars have the push button - they've all been various
versions of the XK-150 model and all had the same push-button start.

And of course, so does my SII.

----- Original Message -----
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: LRO list <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key

>
> >It's interesting how trends come and go.  One of the
> >car manufacturers, I can't remember which one, is
> >making a big deal out of the fact that one of
> >their new models starts by pushing a button,
> >"just like the great sports cars of yesterday" to
> >paraphrase their ad.  I think it might be Jaguar,
> >come to think of it.
>
> My Triumph TR3 has a seperate push button starter as does my Series II
> Land Rover.
>
> Remember positive earth LRs had a seperate push button starter.  It's
> kinds fun watching a long time neg earth LR owner sit in my LR & not know
> how to start it.
>
>
>
> >Based on my experience with my SIII,
> >the ignition key is not the same cut as the
> >door key, so you won't be adding another
> >key to the ring by replacing a bad ignition
> >switch with a new one.
>
> The lock barrels are removable.  When I upgraded to anti burst door
> latches I got three barrels from British Pacific that all took the same
> key.  I put one each in the doors & one in the ignition switch.
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
>
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:18:35 -0500
From: Rick and Laura Lamb <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re:Series Spring over
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi everybody

    Any Spring over will give you better approach/departure angles.
    You will probably need longer shocks to take advantage of any extra
articulation you have gained. One of the 4wheel mags did a test on
spring over conversions and they proved that you gain some articulation.
Personally I wouldn't go spring over on a 88"unless I were going
to blast through the mud with a 12.50 wide tire.I did however lengthen
my front shackles about 2 inches longer than the ones that come with
rocky mountain parabolics.
Also I put in degree shims to get the castor where it should be. I think
a 109 would do well with a spring over since it is so long.

Rick Lamb
1970 Lightweight
1988 Range Rover

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 09:51:57 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a MkIV Kodiak in my '65 88" IIA rag top.  I assume it's a retrofit by
a previous PO as I don't think the MkIV was out in '65.

Anyway, I haven't been in temps below 30oF so far.  I generally run the
heater without the fan.  Air forced in via the front vent over the core is
hot enough to heat the cabin up right quick.  I fan is too much after a
short time. 

The only thing I haven't been able to get it to do is to defrost the drivers
(LHD) windshield quickly, though it will do the passenger side fast enough.
I might try to create a control to divert all the air into the drivers side
vent.

Jeff  

> Bruce Wachal wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
>> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,how do they work,what so they
>> look like,are they effective in extreme weather?
>> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Epsilon.

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 13:24:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] oil filter troubles
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the can, but the fixed bit
that the can bolts into.  The seam that goes towards the pressure warning
light sender has split.  what are my options?  I presume that I can get
another of these things (anyone have a spare?), or should I use the chance
to go with a spin-on adapter? If that, where do I get one?  

David

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Rich Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] oil filter troubles
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:34:12 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

David,

Go to British Pacific or Wise Owl and get the spin-on unit.  Doesn't matter
which vendor you go to because they both sell the same identical unit at the
same price (last I checked).

Rich
'60 SII 109 sw

----- Original Message -----
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 10:24 AM
Subject: [lro] oil filter troubles

>
> The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the can, but the fixed bit
> that the can bolts into.  The seam that goes towards the pressure warning
> light sender has split.  what are my options?  I presume that I can get
> another of these things (anyone have a spare?), or should I use the chance
> to go with a spin-on adapter? If that, where do I get one?
>
> David
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] 88' Gross weight
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:04:37 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>  I guess you should have clean off some of the mud before you weighed her.
> 

Nope, she was spotless.  The weight is for the custom built frame.
I figure I am way over 4600 when it's loaded with tools and stuff.
Spare tire is 80lbs
Snow chains for all four wheels is another 80.
Me 200.
5 gallons of fuel and water 100
Small kit bag of tools 50
Winch kit (chain, lead wire, snatch block, shackles) 100

This is why I have decided to re-engine instead of rebuild.  :-)

Pete

--__--__--

Message: 25
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: "lr LRO" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:49:36 -0800
Subject: [lro] PTO snow blower
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just wondering if there is such a thing to fit on the front of the rover??
Failing that, how about a hydraulic one?
I saw photos once of a Rover with a hydro pump on the PTO, and then had
fittings at the front and rear of the vehicle.  Other then a hydro winch,
what other items can be run from something like this?
I am doing a engine/tranny swap and I found a PTO for the GM SM465 pretty
cheep.  It comes with a hydro pump, just wondering :-)
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 14:03:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] oil filter troubles
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Dave, if you need one give me a yell - I have a few
about.

          aj"'Least it isn't another cylinder
head..."r

--- David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the
> can, but the fixed bit
> that the can bolts into.  The seam that goes towards
> the pressure warning
> light sender has split.  what are my options?  I
> presume that I can get
> another of these things (anyone have a spare?), or
> should I use the chance
> to go with a spin-on adapter? If that, where do I
> get one?  
> 
> David
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Series spring over.
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:24:59 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I found the steel bill for the chassis.

520 lbs of tube. I guess the chassis would be close to that as I didn't use
all of it, but I did use smaller gauge steel and some crossmembers.

The engine weighs a bit more than the 2.25L, the tranny is very heavy. I'm
curious, I'm taking it to get it weighed sometime next week.

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] Series spring over.

>
> >Yes, and imagine it now! I have lights I don't want to break! 109's can
be a
> >handful, especially when you off-road with 88's who love getting into
tight
> >spaces. Such fun to make 15 point turns and thrash taillights.
>
> I seem to recall a number of ATV trails. How I didn't trash that safari
> roof, I'll never know. BTW, speaking of lights, I've got two Hella 3000s
> and two 4000s for Basil now. Three Euro beams and a cornering beam, all
> 9.5" in diameter and 100 W bulbs each. Heh heh heh...
>
> Good thing I'm redoing the electrics. I think I'll need to upgrade the
> alternator.
>
> >I hadn't thought of the lower CG because of the chassis, Keith. I wonder
how
> >heavy that sucker really is. Since I took it off the trailer by myself,
and
> >lived, I think I'd be best NOT to know.
>
> Well, a stock 88 frame with close-to-stock wall thickness weighs somewhere
> in the neighbourhood of 300-350 lbs IIRCs a bit of a pain to manouver
> around. The "sport" frame that Basil has now is probably no more than 200
> lbs, based on the wall thickness. Given the massive girders that your
frame
> is made of, I would expect it to be at least 400 lbs for 88 length. Add to
> that your engine - is that thing as heavy as a 2.25? You've probably got a
> very low C-G.
>
> Keith
> ------------
> Keith's page de home:
>     http://keith.miata.net
> ------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 28
Subject: Re: [lro] oil filter troubles
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 01 13:31:35 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the can, but the fixed bit
>that the can bolts into.  The seam that goes towards the pressure warning
>light sender has split.  what are my options?  I presume that I can get
>another of these things (anyone have a spare?), or should I use the chance
>to go with a spin-on adapter? If that, where do I get one?  

Get on line to UK wrecking yards & try to find an oil filter adaptor for 
a 2.5L.

A picture of one is located at:

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/filterAdapter.htm

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 29
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 14:39:44 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] oil filter troubles
From: Jeff Bieler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

David,

I would either get the spin on adapter or use TeriAnn's suggestion.  Time
wise, I would think ordering the spin on will be quicker and I don't know
how much the UK wreckers would charge for the part or what shipping will
cost you in time and money.  Either way, you'll appreciate it later at
future oil changes.  Much easier and the filter is a commonly available one
at any parts store, Target, Wally World, etc.

No real reason not to update.

Jeff

on 12/13/01 1:31 PM, TeriAnn Wakeman at [email-masked] wrote:

> 
>> The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the can, but the fixed bit
>> that the can bolts into.  The seam that goes towards the pressure warning
>> light sender has split.  what are my options?  I presume that I can get
>> another of these things (anyone have a spare?), or should I use the chance
>> to go with a spin-on adapter? If that, where do I get one?
> 
> Get on line to UK wrecking yards & try to find an oil filter adaptor for
> a 2.5L.
> 
> A picture of one is located at:
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/filterAdapter.htm
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
> 
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
> 
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] 88' Gross weight
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:39:34 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Nope, she was spotless.  The weight is for the custom built frame.
> I figure I am way over 4600 when it's loaded with tools and stuff.
> Spare tire is 80lbs
> Snow chains for all four wheels is another 80.
> Me 200.
> 5 gallons of fuel and water 100
> Small kit bag of tools 50
> Winch kit (chain, lead wire, snatch block, shackles) 100
>
> This is why I have decided to re-engine instead of rebuild.  :-)

Oh, dear. That puts Valdez at over 4600 lbs for sure... And I wonder why it
sinks like a rock in the mud...

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:05:49 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: International Land Rover Owners List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

All this talk of modifying, calibrating, adjusting, and measuring our
Land Rovers betrays the fact that our days as greasy trousered bodgers
are probably numbered.

We all fail to see the probable scenario - that if the Defender does
survive in any shape or form, it will do so by its manufacturers
embracing not only the technology of the digital world, but also the
terminology, points of reference, and worst still - the morality - of
the digital world. I may be sieing ghosts here, but this is my nightmare
vision in the crystal ball...

New vehicles will be delivered mechanically complete, but operationally
useless without the installation of some sort of "operative system" -
imagine a MickySoft tool which - every time you put the keyt in - boots
up the vehicle and undertakes a plug-and-play operation on your truck -
finding new devices, discarding old and otherwise tried and tested
devices, asking for drivers you didn't know you had, telling you that
your system clock has been updated to account for the fact that you have
just crossed the bavarian border and its also British Summer Time...etc.

Vehgicles will be named after their version number - like Land Rover 5.2
(Build 2195 Beta Service pack 26) the days of series naming will be
gone.

Your vehicle will be purchased with a complicated and ever changing set
of user licences, which (if paid for or cracked) allow you to seat a
certain number of passengers, use the tow-hitch, drive on certain roads,
or swear at your software interface in different languages.

The market will be flooded with false vehicle BIOS's and other malignant
vehicular software, so that one day you will be confronted with a Land
Rover which thinks its a Ford Fiesta, or which stops functioning at
critical times. These viruses could remove your braking power, fuel
lines, headlights without warning, and can easily be spread via your
digital ignition key to other vehicles in your household, or even, via
infra red service ports to vehicles next to which you park.

New releases of vehicles will almost certainly never work first time,
despite having been crashed by betatesters worldwide for months
beforehand. the manufacturers will simply say "Sorry about the lack of a
handbrake, there will be an update available (probably for an extra
charge) in six months.

In the meantime you have to live with the Blue Windscreen of Death or
the Lucas Exception Error.

The more technology that gets added to the vehicle, the more time you
will spend making backups just in case what you didn't think you needed
might have disappeared tomorrow.

No longer will the platform - the mechanicals - be the issue - future
generations of motorists will wait eternally for the new release of
their vehicle software, only to be shocked to discover that the men who
write the software will make a deal with the men who build the
mechanical bits to ensure that new versions of the software will only
run on new parts - so that when you finally get the software release
which prevents your lights from going out every time you look in the
rear view mirror, you find that your horsebox will not interface with
the tow-hitch.

Most vehicles will be clones - look under the bonnet (remove 6 screws to
do this) and you will find lots of parts which don't have any name or
indication of origin.

The speedo will be digital and will boot up with the message "Where do
you want to go today?".

But think of the benefits too - when the roof leaks (as it will continue
to do so) your digital display will also inform you of Error code 427
(which if you refer to the manual you will see means (the roof is
leaking, your nearside trouser leg is wet".

So I'm forgetting pursuing progress with these vehicles, I'll be
satisfied if I can just keep my 2.25l diesel on the road, and find out
for myself that the roof is leaking, the cabin is noisy and the heater
has generated a general exception error - after all - what's new?

Or am I seeing hjosts?

:-)
 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 32
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:33:58 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I work for Flyin' Miata, a company that builds performance parts for, well, 
the Mazda Miata. Turbochargers, suspension kits, big brakes - you know. 
Cool hardware.

One of the most important and useful items we develop is a full replacement 
ECU for the car. This allows us to program the ignition, fuel and other 
systems to eke the greatest performance out of the car. And you know what? 
We haven't changed the hardware for the ECU in several years. But we are 
continually modifying the software. Not the tuning, but the underlying OS. 
Ignition breakup under high boost? Solved with a software fix, not 
hardware. A hole in the torque curve? Software fix. Slow starting? Software 
fix. Blew up your engine and bent all your rods? Software problem.

I've done enough beta testing on the software to have experienced all sorts 
of wonderful things, such as a software load that will simply stop the car 
from running after about 10 minutes (known as the "MG program"). Programs 
and wiring glitches that cause the car to run rich at night when the lights 
are on. All sorts of good stuff. I currently have to let my car boot for 3 
seconds before starting. Remember that I'm a developer :)

I've also worked, in the past, for Nortel Networks doing far-out work with 
car companies such as GM on the next generation of in-car technology. 
Location awareness, telemetry of car problems, etc. I can reassure you that 
reliability is paramount for these people, second only to cost. The tech to 
track a rental car and add fines for speeding (even without a ticket!) is 
already in use. The OnStar system can disable a vehicle with a keystroke if 
necessary.

The bonnet on the Audi A2 is sealed.

>The market will be flooded with false vehicle BIOS's and other malignant
>vehicular software, so that one day you will be confronted with a Land
>Rover which thinks its a Ford Fiesta, or which stops functioning at
>critical times. These viruses could remove your braking power, fuel
>lines, headlights without warning, and can easily be spread via your
>digital ignition key to other vehicles in your household, or even, via
>infra red service ports to vehicles next to which you park.

In other words, a rich Land Rover heritage :) At least, my Series seems to 
do this already.

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Jim Laurel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:44:44 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

And just imagine calling tech support - "Ok, sir, what I want you to do is
pull over, stop your engine, and restart.  That should solve the problem".

Truth is, though, that high tech has made cars more reliable than ever
before.  Sure, when something goes wrong, there's no recovering until you
get to a shop with the right diagnostic tools and replacement parts.  But
none of my old-school-simple-carbureted-all mechanical rides could match my
current cars for reliability.  A generation from now, most car guys will be
more comfortable tweaking engine management software than adjusting
carburetors.

--Jim Laurel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Edit 2" <[email-masked]>
To: "International Land Rover Owners List" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 4:05 PM
Subject: [lro] What's new?

> New releases of vehicles will almost certainly never work first time,
> despite having been crashed by betatesters worldwide for months
> beforehand. the manufacturers will simply say "Sorry about the lack of a
> handbrake, there will be an update available (probably for an extra
> charge) in six months.

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:01:59 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

That is my point exactly - but where's the FUN in that - if we all
wanted functional, daily, unfettered reliability, then we wouldn't be
driving the aluminium workhorses would we?

It just makes me think that we should be pleased and proud of our toys.
:-)

Jim Laurel wrote:
<snip>
Truth is, though, that high tech has made cars more reliable than ever
before.  
<snip>
But none of my old-school-simple-carbureted-all mechanical rides could
match my
current cars for reliability.  A generation from now, most car guys will
be
more comfortable tweaking engine management software than adjusting
carburetors.

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 35
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:05:57 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith Tanner wrote:
<snip>
I can reassure you that reliability is paramount for these people,
second only to cost.

Yeah - didn't they say that about the Exxon Valdez? Three Mile Island?
Apollo) Challenger?

Allright for the sedan market I'm sure, but given that all this digital
ignition timing only serves to eliminate problems which can be solved
with a diesel engine, I'll stick to the series III

(that will get me flamed I'm sure :-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 03:19:58 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: UK Land Rover owners list <[email-masked]>,
  International Land Rover Owners List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] What's new part 2
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Dateline 2008
Land Rover v.10 (build 23672, beta, service pack 23458921479, danish
version)
ERROR CODES - ADDENDUM

122	Your roof is leaking
123	Roof leak detection system error
124	Roof leak detection system error detection sub-system error
125	Error display panel error
126	Your exhaust has fallen off
127	Excess draught in cabin
128	Cabin noise level exceed
129	Passenger seat cover split
130	Rear door frame weld split - remove spare tyre
131	Exhaust black smoke is blue
132	Exhaust blue smoke is black
133	Your audio cassette has stopped playing - flip cassette
134	<reserved for previous owner>
135	Rear free wheel hubs engaged
136	excess bacon fat on breakfast grille (SIIA emulation only)
137	You are driving too close to the vehicle in front of you
138	Didn't I say so! (see above)
139	Meat pie on manifold browned nicely on one side
140	Meat pie burnt to cinder
141	Rear view mirror excess wobble
142	Interior maximum waterline exceeded
143	Your briefcase is still sitting on the front wing
144	<reserved for previous owner>
145	rear crossmember rusted through
146	left outrigger fallen off
147	hard top removed (press button 4 on ceiling to cancel)
148	HP payments overdue

other suggestions from satisfied owner drivers welcome...

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 37
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'Hope Peter '" <[email-masked]>, "'lr LRO '"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] PTO snow blower
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 22:16:15 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

 Princess Auto have a snow blower attachment on sale just now $450 Can
It's belt drive for a tractor but could be hydrauliced easily. I was tempted
but having just got the Freelander am on the poverty line for a few weeks
(months/years?)

-----Original Message-----
From: Hope Peter
To: lr LRO
Sent: 12/13/01 3:49 PM
Subject: [lro] PTO snow blower

Just wondering if there is such a thing to fit on the front of the
rover??
Failing that, how about a hydraulic one?
I saw photos once of a Rover with a hydro pump on the PTO, and then had
fittings at the front and rear of the vehicle.  Other then a hydro
winch,
what other items can be run from something like this?
I am doing a engine/tranny swap and I found a PTO for the GM SM465
pretty
cheep.  It comes with a hydro pump, just wondering :-)
Pete
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 38
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "'Edit 2 '" <[email-masked]>, "'UK Land Rover owners list '"
  <[email-masked]>, "'International Land Rover Owners List '"
  <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] What's new part 2
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 22:26:14 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

147	hard top removed (press button 4 on ceiling to cancel)
148	HP payments overdue

other suggestions from satisfied owner drivers welcome...

:-)

Adrian Redmond

149       Rubber glove on distributor is split
150       Deep puddle ahead
131       System reboot required, see 149/150, apply WD40

--__--__--

Message: 39
From: "Jim Laurel" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new part 2
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:16:29 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

How about these for expeditioners?

150 Overloaded Tata truck approaching in oncoming lane
151 Bullock cart carrying rebar ahead
152 Overloaded Mahindra Jeep around next blind corner
153 Tata Sumo with driver on opium ahead
154 Tuareg nomads over next dune
155 Pashtun bandits at next checkpoint
156 Diesel contaminated with camel urine
157 Surly customs officials ahead
158 Garmin Street Pilot mount broken AGAIN
159 Warning: no shops with facilities for tubless tyres for next 2000 miles
160 Hella power jack melted

--Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: "Edit 2" <[email-masked]>
To: "UK Land Rover owners list" <[email-masked]>; "International Land
Rover Owners List" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 6:19 PM
Subject: [lro] What's new part 2

>
> Dateline 2008
> Land Rover v.10 (build 23672, beta, service pack 23458921479, danish
> version)
> ERROR CODES - ADDENDUM
>
> 122 Your roof is leaking
> 123 Roof leak detection system error
> 124 Roof leak detection system error detection sub-system error
> 125 Error display panel error
> 126 Your exhaust has fallen off
> 127 Excess draught in cabin
> 128 Cabin noise level exceed
> 129 Passenger seat cover split
> 130 Rear door frame weld split - remove spare tyre
> 131 Exhaust black smoke is blue
> 132 Exhaust blue smoke is black
> 133 Your audio cassette has stopped playing - flip cassette
> 134 <reserved for previous owner>
> 135 Rear free wheel hubs engaged
> 136 excess bacon fat on breakfast grille (SIIA emulation only)
> 137 You are driving too close to the vehicle in front of you
> 138 Didn't I say so! (see above)
> 139 Meat pie on manifold browned nicely on one side
> 140 Meat pie burnt to cinder
> 141 Rear view mirror excess wobble
> 142 Interior maximum waterline exceeded
> 143 Your briefcase is still sitting on the front wing
> 144 <reserved for previous owner>
> 145 rear crossmember rusted through
> 146 left outrigger fallen off
> 147 hard top removed (press button 4 on ceiling to cancel)
> 148 HP payments overdue
>
> other suggestions from satisfied owner drivers welcome...
>
> :-)
>
>
> Adrian Redmond
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
> Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
> ---------------------------------------------------
> telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
> telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
> telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
> mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
> e-mail                       [email-masked]
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 23:34:52 -0500
From: Richard Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover Owner List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] stripping
Reply-To: [email-masked]

No, not that kind!

I've recently started a valiant attempt at removing Smudger's exterior
covering, e.g. the paint.  As he's an ex-MoD car he's wearing several
coats of NATO-green IRR paint which is highly resistant to commercial 
strippers (4 coats of BIX finally cleared 95% of one door bottom).

There must be a better way.  I know some folk have recommended use
of the various aircraft-oriented compounds available at Pep Boys &
so forth...but has anyone tried these on milspec paint and what were
the results?  Any specific brand that seems to work better than the
others?

cheers,

dj
1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

--__--__--

_______________________________________________
* Team.Net hosted courtesy of Amaranth Networks, Inc. http://Amaranth.com/ *
* Powered by SUN(r). The network is the computer.(tm) *
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

End of LRO Digest