Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #189 - 52 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:55:04 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. Idiot Lights (Carter, Hal H)
   2. Re: What's new? (John Cranfield)
   3. Re: What's new? (Alan J. Richer)
   4. oil filter housing (Bob & Sue Bernard)
   5. heaters (Bob & Sue Bernard)
   6. Re: What's new? (Keith Tanner)
   7. Re: KODIAK HEATERS (RON WARD)
   8. Re: stripping (Mark Pilkington)
   9. Re: Idiot Lights (Mark Pilkington)
  10. Re: stripping (marko.cosic)
  11. Re: Idiot Lights (marko.cosic)
  12. What's new? ([email-masked])
  13. Re: What's new? (Mark Pilkington)
  14. Re: Starter button vs key (Faure, Marin)
  15. Re: What's new part 2 (William J. Rice)
  16. Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust (george kase)
  17. Re: heaters (Keith Tanner)
  18. Re: Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust (Jeff Berg)
  19. Re: Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust (John Cranfield)
  20. Re: stripping (Rich Williams)
  21. Re: Idiot Lights (Brian Horner)
  22. LRO List User named JL? (Brian Horner)
  23. Re: Brake upgrades (Faure, Marin)
  24. delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? ([email-masked])
  25. Re: What's new? (Adrian Redmond)
  26. Beater required (Mark Pilkington)
  27. Re: What's new (Faure, Marin)
  28. Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key) (G. Mugele)
  29. RE: Idiot Lights (John Trotter)
  30. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (Brian Horner)
  31. Re: Beater required (Brian Horner)
  32. RE: Beater required (Easton Trevor A)
  33. RE: Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key) (Faure, Marin)
  34. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (Kirk Hillman)
  35. Re: Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs
       key) (Keith Tanner)
  36. Re: Re: What's new (Keith Tanner)
  37. Re: Re: Brake upgrades (David Scheidt)
  38. Re: What's new (Jeff Berg)
  39. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (David Scheidt)
  40. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (Jeff Berg)
  41. Re: Re: What's new (Rob MacCormick)
  42. Re: Re: What's new (Keith Tanner)
  43. Re: Beater required (Mark Pilkington)
  44. Re: delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one? (Alan J. Richer)
  45. Re: Beater required (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  46. Re: Beater required (Alan J. Richer)
  47. Re: Beater required (Edit 2)
  48. Re: series spring over (Andre Shoumatoff)
  49. Re: Beater required (Mark Pilkington)
  50. Re: LRO List User named JL? (Jean-Leon Morin)
  51. Re: LRO List User named JL? (Keith Tanner)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Carter, Hal H" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:37:58 -0500
Subject: [lro] Idiot Lights
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this and recently purchased a 1995 discovery.  I've had some
problems trying to rid some of those idiot lights.  My SRS has been on since
I purchased it, the previous owner said he pulled the fuse for some odd
reason and its been on every since.  Is this a fault of the discovery and
does any one have any suggestions on a fix.  Also, my engine light is on,
but I can find no faults with the engine.  I changed the spark plugs, rotor,
distributor cap and it runs great.  Is this a feature set on mileage and
will it go off or reset after I have driven some miles.  help

Can anyone recommend a digital tested that might help with finding these
faults.

 <<Carter, Hal H.vcf>> 

[demime 0.98e lite $Revision: 1.8 $ removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Carter, Hal H.vcf]

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:41:44 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jim Laurel wrote:
  A generation from now, most car guys will be
> more comfortable tweaking engine management software than adjusting
> carburetors.
> 
> --Jim Laurel

That generation is here. My nephew who graduated from his
Vocational College six years ago and is now one of the top techs a major
GM dealership in Alberta doesn't "do" 
carbs but he does "do" ECUs and electronic auto trannys.
John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:04:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- John Cranfield <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> That generation is here. My nephew who graduated
> from his
> Vocational College six years ago and is now one of
> the top techs a major
> GM dealership in Alberta doesn't "do" 
> carbs but he does "do" ECUs and electronic auto
> trannys.
> John and Muddy

Indeed - my brother-in-law who's supposedly a
top-flight mechanic and disparages non-electronic
engies was on the phone to me about carburettors...
after also disparaging my skillsets as "antique" and
"obsolete"...

Revenge is sweet...and if you understand base
principles and your tools at hand you can fix
anything.

          ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:58:09 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Bob & Sue Bernard <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] oil filter housing
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi David,
I have a few of the filter housings.
If you need one let me know.
It will only cost you postage.

Bob B

--- David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
 >
 > The housing of my oil filter has cracked -- not the
 > can, but the fixed bit
 > that the can bolts into. The seam that goes towards

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:08:43 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: Bob & Sue Bernard <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] heaters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,
Someone mentioned to look at Ike Goss' pictures of Kodiak heaters. I cna't 
find the reference again, but now I would like to know what his site is. 
I'd like to look for a reference  point.
Thanks,
Bob B 

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:09:30 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>That generation is here. My nephew who graduated from his
>Vocational College six years ago and is now one of the top techs a major
>GM dealership in Alberta doesn't "do"
>carbs but he does "do" ECUs and electronic auto trannys.

Yup, I work with a bunch of people like that. I'm becoming one of the carb 
experts in our shop by virtue of having rebuilt two of them. Of course, the 
owner has been repairing cars for over 18 years and he doesn't seem to miss 
working on carbs at all!

I had a bit of an epiphany while working on the first. I recognised all of 
the components because the computers we work with had digital equivalents. 
Basically, the ECU is just a carb simulator. Mind you, trying to remove the 
carb from my 1987 Subaru makes it obvious that the technology was done. The 
number of vaccum lines in that car is astounding.

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:09:04 -0500
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] KODIAK HEATERS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jeff,

I believe that Kodiak is original to that truck.  Check the hose running to the drivers side for an obstruction.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 12/13/01 12:51PM >>>

I have a MkIV Kodiak in my '65 88" IIA rag top.  I assume it's a retrofit by
a previous PO as I don't think the MkIV was out in '65.

Anyway, I haven't been in temps below 30oF so far.  I generally run the
heater without the fan.  Air forced in via the front vent over the core is
hot enough to heat the cabin up right quick.  I fan is too much after a
short time. 

The only thing I haven't been able to get it to do is to defrost the drivers
(LHD) windshield quickly, though it will do the passenger side fast enough.
I might try to create a control to divert all the air into the drivers side
vent.

Jeff  

> Bruce Wachal wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone out there know anything about kodiak heaters?
>> I've never seen one. Where do they mount,how do they work,what so they
>> look like,are they effective in extreme weather?
>> Does anyone know a good place to get one?
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Epsilon.
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:29:00 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] stripping
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Richard,
    When we strip aircraft and old ones at that, there are usually several
layers of paint and they are over aluminium so it is very similar to a
Landy. Some strippers will wrinkle up the paint and have it fall off in
sheets only to reveal another layer that sits there defiantly clinging on
with every molecule. A different stripper gets this off but would not
touch the first type of paint. Keep trying and you will find one that is
easy. Remember they all like to be warm.  If you do not live in Phoenix,
just warm the metal before you apply the stripper and slap it on with a
space heater or something.  Turn off the heater when the stripper is
working though because some may have explosive fumes.  The rule of thumb
is, the more it stings on your skin and the more it makes you gag if you
inadvertantly get a whiff of it, the better it is to strip paint.  I used
35 gallons of stripper on a Brittan Norman Islander once, a 10 seater twin
engined plane.  I walked along the top of the wing in a space suit
sloshing it out of a bucket and then spreading it about with a broom.
That was the last plane I will ever strip, it was a bloody nightmare.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

Richard Joltes wrote:

> No, not that kind!
>
> I've recently started a valiant attempt at removing Smudger's exterior
> covering, e.g. the paint.  As he's an ex-MoD car he's wearing several
> coats of NATO-green IRR paint which is highly resistant to commercial
> strippers (4 coats of BIX finally cleared 95% of one door bottom).
>
> There must be a better way.  I know some folk have recommended use
> of the various aircraft-oriented compounds available at Pep Boys &
> so forth...but has anyone tried these on milspec paint and what were
> the results?  Any specific brand that seems to work better than the
> others?
>
> cheers,
>
> dj
> 1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:32:22 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Idiot Lights
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hal,
    Not sure if it works on a Disco, but on my Range Rover if an idiot light comes on, especially the engine light, I disconnect the
battery for 5 seconds and when I reconnect it the light is reset. This was addvice from Land Rover.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

"Carter, Hal H" wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new to this and recently purchased a 1995 discovery.  I've had some
> problems trying to rid some of those idiot lights.  My SRS has been on since
> I purchased it, the previous owner said he pulled the fuse for some odd
> reason and its been on every since.  Is this a fault of the discovery and
> does any one have any suggestions on a fix.  Also, my engine light is on,
> but I can find no faults with the engine.  I changed the spark plugs, rotor,
> distributor cap and it runs great.  Is this a feature set on mileage and
> will it go off or reset after I have driven some miles.  help
>
> Can anyone recommend a digital tested that might help with finding these
> faults.
>
>  <<Carter, Hal H.vcf>>
>
> [demime 0.98e lite $Revision: 1.8 $ removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Carter, Hal H.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "marko.cosic" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] stripping
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:28:08 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I've found all strippers work best when you've keyed the surface with a coarse
orbital sand or something. An excellent way of removing semi-soft paint is a
high-pressure water jet/lance, which also doesn't damage the alloy in any way.
It also clears the paint stripper. Somewhere between room temperature (25C) and
blood heat (37C) works best for the stripper in my experience. Any more
stripping tips would be welcomed by me also.

Marko

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "marko.cosic" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Idiot Lights
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:31:14 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The SRS system will not be reset by disconnecting the battery etc. Theoretically
it needs an approved piece of equipment to do the reset, officially to stop
somebody meddling with a safety-critical system, but more realistically so Rover
can charge yuo #50 to reset it. In practice its probably a case of shorting out
two pins, but which two on a Disco I couldn't tell you. I'd be inclined to
remove the system totally and just wear my seatbet, but then I'm from the UK not
the states.

Marko

--__--__--

Message: 12
From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:36:34 EST
Subject: [lro] What's new?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 14 Dec 2001, Edit 2 <[email-masked]>  posted:

<< All this talk of modifying, calibrating, adjusting, and measuring our
Land Rovers betrays the fact that our days as greasy trousered bodgers
are probably numbered. >> 

So, Adrian, been plagued with computer problems lately?

There was a firm in the People's Republic of Boulder (ten square miles, 
completely surrounded by reality) which built a device called the Lucas Box.  
This microprocessor controlled marvel could be wired into the electrical 
system of any new German or Japanese sports car causing random and 
intermittent electrical malfunctions just like a real English sports car.  
The difference was that it could be turned off if you really had to get to 
work on time.

There is not reason this product could not be adapted to M Type Benzes, X5s, 
Pathfinders, Cruisers, etc., to simulate the feel of a Fine British Off-road 
Car. Simulation is better than the real thing. Please refer to my previous 
treatise on genuine imitation wire wheel covers.  The price would need to be 
quadrupled, but the offer could be sweetened by the addition of several 
Territory Markers.  Territory Markers are the roundish black vinyl pieces 
that can be left under your German or Japanese sports car or imitation Fine 
British Off-road Car to simulate the signature oil spots left by oil leaks. 
These are still very popular as they are easy to remove when the neighbors 
complain.

Please note that I do not have any affiliations with an of the above firms 
and that my description does not constitute an endorsement.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver Colorado

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:41:27 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I crashed my hard drive a month or so ago......No-one was hurt!

John Cranfield wrote:

> Jim Laurel wrote:
> >
>   A generation from now, most car guys will be
> > more comfortable tweaking engine management software than adjusting
> > carburetors.
> >
> > --Jim Laurel
>
> That generation is here. My nephew who graduated from his
> Vocational College six years ago and is now one of the top techs a major
> GM dealership in Alberta doesn't "do"
> carbs but he does "do" ECUs and electronic auto trannys.
> John and Muddy
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:51:15 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: Starter button vs key
Reply-To: [email-masked]

To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Starter button vs key
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 4:36 PM -0800 12/12/01, Faure, Marin wrote:

>>Based on my experience with my SIII,
>the ignition key is not the same cut as the
>door key, so you won't be adding another
>key to the ring by replacing a bad ignition
>switch with a new one.

>Huh?  The ignition and the door locks required different keys on the 
SIII but they are otherwise the same key.

Not on my SIII.  The factory supplied keys are very different for the 
door and ignition. The ignition key has a considerably larger head as 
well as being a little longer.  I can tell the difference between them in
the 
dark by feel.  But perhaps the SIIIs sent to other markets didn't have 
as great a difference in the keys.  Or perhaps your SIII has been re-keyed 
sometime in the past, and the two keys are almost identical now.  But as 
delivered from the factory, the US-spec SIII had very distinct keys for the 
ignition and door locks.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--__--__--

Message: 15
To: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:41:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new part 2
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Wow, I had a 126 happen to me on a dirt road in Wyoming this summer and I
didn't even know it.  Not that I didn't know it had happened, I just
didn't know what it was called.  Fortunately I was able to diagnose
problem myself (didn't take a genius), install earplugs, and drive about
70 miles quite noisily on the interstate to the next big town where I got
a repair done the next a.m.

bill

> 126        Your exhaust has fallen off
> 127        Excess draught in cabin
> 128        Cabin noise level exceed

--__--__--

Message: 16
Date: 14 Dec 2001 11:13:46 -0600
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anybody have any observations about spraying stuff under the vehicle
with like WD-40 to arrest rust progress? Things like brake lines and junctions, starter motor...etc. I live in Chicago and they use a LOT of
salt here during the winter...any comments?
George Kase

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:14:52 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] heaters
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://php.indiana.edu/~idgoss/kodiaks/kodiak.html

At 09:08 12/14/01, you wrote:

>Hi all,
>Someone mentioned to look at Ike Goss' pictures of Kodiak heaters. I cna't
>find the reference again, but now I would like to know what his site is.
>I'd like to look for a reference  point.
>Thanks,
>Bob B
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:20:56 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Anybody have any observations about spraying stuff under the vehicle
>with like WD-40 to arrest rust progress?

WD-40 isn't tenacious enough for this job. The boys up in Ottawa 
spray motor oil all over the undercarriage. Some prefer Waxol or a 
home made derivative.

I would be careful spraying the starter motor though.(Can't remember 
if it's vented or  not.)  Nothing like a nice coat of waxy dirt 
between the commutator and the brushes...

Also, regarding brake lines and couplings--I'd be cautious about any 
form of coating that prevents you from seeing corrosion by covering 
it up.

Finally, you could let it all get a nice layer of surface rust and 
then just hit it with POR-15.

Some of this is probably in the FAQ

jeff
Chicago Expat

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:33:06 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Spraying frame/etc. as anti rust
Reply-To: [email-masked]

WD 40 won't do much for you as it disappears quite fast but products
like Rustcheck and Fluidfilm would work well. A bit expensive though is
done by the spraycan full. Get as much inside the frame as you can,
John and Muddy

george kase wrote:
> 
> Anybody have any observations about spraying stuff under the vehicle
> with like WD-40 to arrest rust progress? Things like brake lines and junctions, starter motor...etc. I live in Chicago and they use a LOT of
> salt here during the winter...any comments?
> George Kase
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Rich Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] stripping
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:35:04 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

One thing that works for me has been wrapping the piece being stripped in
plastic wrap or aluminum foil - depending on the stripper being used.  This
concentrates the volatiles and keeps the gunk from drying out.  If the part
is small enough, I'll just soak in a coffee can of stripper, but a door or
fender, depending on stubbornness of paint, I'll usually wrap.  And temp is
important too.  I want the stripper, air, and item being stripped to be
"warm", around room temp or slightly above.

Regarding NATO IRR paint, I just cleaned, stripped, and painted a Salisbury
rear that was coated in many thick layers of green army paint.  Was this IRR
paint - I dunno.  But with warmth, wrapping and letting it sit overnight,
the stuff came off in 2 applications of stripper.

Hope this helps.

Rich
1960 Series II 109 SW

----- Original Message -----
From: marko.cosic <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] stripping

>
> I've found all strippers work best when you've keyed the surface with a
coarse
> orbital sand or something. An excellent way of removing semi-soft paint is
a
> high-pressure water jet/lance, which also doesn't damage the alloy in any
way.
> It also clears the paint stripper. Somewhere between room temperature
(25C) and
> blood heat (37C) works best for the stripper in my experience. Any more
> stripping tips would be welcomed by me also.
>
> Marko
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:50:21 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] Idiot Lights
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh no!

I own a 2000 Discovery and every few days my ABS light, Downhill Descent
Control, and Traction Control lights all blip on at once.  Both Redwood City
Land Rover and Land Rover of Marin have not been able to figure it out.

"It must be the driver side wheel sensor!"
"It must be the passenger side sensor now"
"Hmmm, must be the gas?" - NO!

So I am standing around the dealer the other day and there are, get ready
for this, a guy with a 1999 Disco and a gal with a 1996 Disco - both were in
the shop for almost identical reasons - faulty alert lights.  All we could
do is laugh about it and be thankful that it wasn't something that actually
affected the vehicles driving ability.

Your not alone.  Let me know if you figure it out - I'm curious.

Brian  ;O

On 12/14/01 4:37 AM, "Carter, Hal H" <[email-masked]> wrote:

<snip>
 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm new to this and recently purchased a 1995 discovery.  I've had some
> problems trying to rid some of those idiot lights.  My SRS has been on since
> I purchased it, the previous owner said he pulled the fuse for some odd
> reason and its been on every since.

<snip>

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:59:29 -0800
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] LRO List User named JL?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I was told that JL has recently been trying to convert to Disc Brakes and
was wondering to what success, if any.  If you are or know JL, please
forward me his email off-list - I would totally appreciate it!

Thank you!

Brian

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 23
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:04:25 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:33:43 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Brian Horner <[email-masked]> wrote:

>The Series III 88 should have fairly good brakes, though.

Series III-88 servo-assist brakes are okay for stopping the 
vehicle on its own.  They are extremely fade-prone, however, 
so if you are towing any kind of a load- boat, horse box, etc.-
the brakes will disappear pretty rapidly if you try to use them to 
hold the vehicle back on even a light grade.  If you drive the 
vehicle as though it was the 1960s, in other words relatively 
low speeds, say 45 to 50 mph, the SIII's brakes "match" 
the vehicle.  But if you try to keep up with today's traffic, 
and cruise at speeds of 60-70 mph, or are jammed into 
urban traffic with little room between you and the vehicle 
in front, or you're on the brakes a lot in stop and go traffic, 
they do leave a lot to be desired because once they start 
getting hot, the braking power falls off a lot.

I have towed a 2,000 pound boat with my SIII deep into 
British Columbia, and I will never do it again.  The lack of 
power reduced our speeds a lot going up hills, but I had 
no problem dropping down through the gears to find one 
that didn't overtax the engine even though it meant being 
the slowest thing on the road.  But brake fade became 
a real problem on several occasions, and I wouldn't 
want to put myself in that position again.

If for some reason I wanted to "modernize" my SIII, I 
would look first at upgrading the brakes before I started 
thinking about changing the engine.
_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:11:17 -0500
Subject: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello y'all,

most likely i am picking this up sat 8am and getting the mothership back on
the road...trail if i am lucky. its delco part 321143. I would like to confirm
that this is the correct unit. I will be getting one with double pulley as
well. I will be emailing jim of the bayou rover page as well to see exactly
what he has.

rove on,
chill willGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:05:17 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What's new?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I don't know why LR electrics have such a bad reputation - maybe its
because most enthusiasts buy older, possibly badly maintained landies,
and live with the ills of worn out components, previous owner
modification, bad workshop add-ons and the like for years before getting
to grips with the problem.

It may also be that the mechanical and body parts last so much longer
than most other vehicles, that by then any electrical system which has
also survived several owners and years of hard use will develop faults.

I rewired one of my 88's in 1996, and the 109 in 1999, and bought a new
defender in 1999 too - none of these have had a single electrical fault
since - except for the occasional bulb needing repair.

So it doesn't need to be computer controlled to work.

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:33:21 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Beater required
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater Landy that still has
papers and ID and is older than 1973.  I have a friend that is restoring one
from the ground up and it has no ID, No VIN and no papers, which would make
it difficult to register when finished. He really only needs the numbers,
but would buy the whole thing if it were cheap enough because of the parts.
Thanks.
Mark Pilkington

--__--__--

Message: 27
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:33:51 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I asked Nikki Lauda, the founder of Lauda 
Air and a Formula 1 racing driver of some 
repute, what he felt is the value of all the automation 
we are putting in our airplanes today.  This was 
an interview I was conducting with him about the 
777.  He said that automation fills the gap 
between very good pilots and not-so-good 
pilots.  While there are minimum requirements 
to be a pilot, it stands to reason that within 
the range of qualified airline pilots there 
are ones at the top of the list and ones at the
bottom of the list.  They're not all great pilots.  
In fact, I know a couple of pilots for 
major airlines that I will not fly with, even 
though they meet the minimum requirements 
to qualify for the job.  It has nothing to do 
with their physical ability to fly the airplane, 
it has to do with their attitude and psychological 
approach to flying.

In an emergency, Nikki said, a really good 
pilot will be able to cope with the multitude of 
things he has to cope with and continue to fly 
the plane.  But a less-capable pilot in that same 
situation may become confused or befuddled by 
the multitude of things he has to deal with.  A 
good pilot could save the plane, where a mediocre 
pilot might lose the plane under the same 
circumstances.  By automating much of the airplane's 
functions, pilots don't have as many things to deal 
with when it all goes sour.  They can concentrate 
on the emergency itself while the plane, or the 
plane's automated systems, take care of the 
other stuff.  This means, Nikki said, that a 
mediocre or poor pilot has more of a chance 
of making it through the emergency than he would 
if he had to shoulder all the workload himself.

Cars are not airplanes, and an emergency in a 
car is generally not life-threatening.  But the same 
rules apply, in that all this automation in engines, 
suspensions, etc. removes the workload from the 
driver.  A driver who neglects basic maintenance 
no longer runs the risk of a vehicle failure because 
today's more sophisticated systems don't require 
the owner to remember anything about maintenance.  
Either a system doesn't need routine maintenance 
at all, or it's tied in with some elaborate warning 
system that tells the driver when something needs 
to be done.  Fancy automated, road-sensing 
suspension systems allow not-so-good drivers 
to get away with poor driving techniques, thus 
making them less of a risk to other drivers.  And 
so on.

So like today's jetliners, today's and tomorrow's 
vehicles will require less and less of the driver.  
Safety and performance will increase, but for 
some people, the fun of owning, driving, and 
working on a car will decrease.  I know 777 
and 747 pilots who during their vacations 
fly de Havilland Beavers 
for the floatplane service I am associated with.  
These guys, who make big bucks flying their 
airliners and pennies flying the Beavers, do it 
because, as they tell me, flying the floatplanes 
is REAL flying.  Flying an airliner is relatively 
boring unless something goes wrong, which it 
rarely does.  Enter some data, fly to LA.  Enter 
some more data, fly to London.  Nothing to it.  
I've flown the 777 full-motion simulator and 
made perfect, but automated, landings 
at a number of different airports in a number of 
different weather conditions, despite the fact 
I do not have a multi-engine rating and have 
never manually flown an airplane larger than 
a de Havilland Otter.

So if you have a Series Land Rover and enjoy 
"simply messing about in cars" to paraphrase Ratty 
(if any of you know who he is), hang onto it, 
because there's nothing new on the market 
that will give you the same challenge and 
satisfaction of keeping it running yourself.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:34:33 -0800
To: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>, "'Land Rover Mail Group'"
  <[email-masked]>
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 8:51 AM -0800 12/14/01, Faure, Marin wrote:
>  >Huh?  The ignition and the door locks required different keys on the
>SIII but they are otherwise the same key.
>
>Not on my SIII.  The factory supplied keys are very different for the
>door and ignition. The ignition key has a considerably larger head as
>well as being a little longer.  I can tell the difference between them in
>the
>dark by feel.  But perhaps the SIIIs sent to other markets didn't have
>as great a difference in the keys.  Or perhaps your SIII has been re-keyed
>sometime in the past, and the two keys are almost identical now.

Nope....  knew the SIII from new and I know/knew of at least three 
others purchased new that had the same key arrangement.  One stubby, 
square headed  "Union"  key was for the ignition and another that 
looked the same was for all the doors.  Mine was purchased from the 
El Cerrito British-Leyland dealer (SF Bay Area) and therefore would 
have been the same spec as any other Land Rover delivered to the west 
coast or Hawaii.  From my perspective, yours is the odd one.

>  But as delivered from the factory, the US-spec SIII had very 
>distinct keys for the ignition and door locks.

Such pontification can't change the facts.  Assuming that your 
statement about your original keys is correct; the reality is that 
you don't know what was delivered on all US-spec SIII.

The keys for my '69 SIIa (also purchased new) were even more 
consternating.  It had the "Union" key for the ignition just like the 
SIII.  But the driver's door key was a round headed thing with almost 
no distinguishing markings.  The rear door (it was a deluxe station 
wagon) required a different round headed key that was identical in 
appearance.  There was no key entry to the passenger door.

BTW that 69 now lives in your neck of the country.... you can go 
visit it in Port Townsend to see for yourself.

Does anyone else on this list have a SIII with keys such as Marin describes?

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele    --  ("Peat" '95 D90 SW)

***  They say  "Great Discoveries are made by not following 
instructions."   Does this explain Land Rover assembly line practices?

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "John Trotter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Idiot Lights
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:37:50 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I believe that the '95 discovery has a fault readout box that is under the
passenger's seat.  It is a small box, and you should see an LED fault code
number shining through.  The code's meaning is listed on:

http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/RR/FAQ.Engines.Fault.Codes.html

The 95 disco had the OBD I system which is the box I describe, and 96 on had
OBD II which requires you to plug in a tool to get the code and reset the
light.

John

96 Disco
63 IIa

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of Carter, Hal H
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:38 AM
To: [email-masked]'
Subject: [lro] Idiot Lights

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this and recently purchased a 1995 discovery.  I've had some
problems trying to rid some of those idiot lights.  My SRS has been on since
I purchased it, the previous owner said he pulled the fuse for some odd
reason and its been on every since.  Is this a fault of the discovery and
does any one have any suggestions on a fix.  Also, my engine light is on,
but I can find no faults with the engine.  I changed the spark plugs, rotor,
distributor cap and it runs great.  Is this a feature set on mileage and
will it go off or reset after I have driven some miles.  help

Can anyone recommend a digital tested that might help with finding these
faults.

 <<Carter, Hal H.vcf>>

[demime 0.98e lite $Revision: 1.8 $ removed an attachment of type
application/octet-stream which had a name of Carter, Hal H.vcf]
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 30
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:48:56 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yeah, my brakes are just terrible.  In the city, I am cautious of my brakes
and take everything really slow.  Off-road - I don't trust my brakes at all.
When I stop on super steep grades, going uphill or downhill, my rig actually
moves (ever so slightly) - millimeter by millimeter and that, to me, is just
unacceptable.  I really feel like brakes, seatbelt systems and tires are
acceptable things to "Modernize" on your Series vehicle - especially if you
take it off-road or operate it in severe conditions (like towing for
example).  I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.

Brian

<snip> 
> Brian Horner <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>> The Series III 88 should have fairly good brakes, though.
> 
> Series III-88 servo-assist brakes are okay for stopping the
> vehicle on its own.  They are extremely fade-prone, however,
> so if you are towing any kind of a load- boat, horse box, etc.-
> the brakes will disappear pretty rapidly if you try to use them to
> hold the vehicle back on even a light grade.  If you drive the
> vehicle as though it was the 1960s, in other words relatively
> low speeds, say 45 to 50 mph, the SIII's brakes "match"
> the vehicle.  But if you try to keep up with today's traffic,
> and cruise at speeds of 60-70 mph, or are jammed into
> urban traffic with little room between you and the vehicle
> in front, or you're on the brakes a lot in stop and go traffic,
> they do leave a lot to be desired because once they start
> getting hot, the braking power falls off a lot.
> 
> I have towed a 2,000 pound boat with my SIII deep into
> British Columbia, and I will never do it again.  The lack of
> power reduced our speeds a lot going up hills, but I had
> no problem dropping down through the gears to find one
> that didn't overtax the engine even though it meant being
> the slowest thing on the road.  But brake fade became
> a real problem on several occasions, and I wouldn't
> want to put myself in that position again.
> 
> If for some reason I wanted to "modernize" my SIII, I
> would look first at upgrading the brakes before I started
> thinking about changing the engine.
> _________________________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:53:08 -0800
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://www.national4x4.com
http://www.roverwrecks.com

Both of these companies sell completely thrashed vehicles.  It may be worth
a look.

Good Luck!

Brian

On 12/14/01 10:33 AM, "Mark Pilkington" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> 
> Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater Landy that still has
> papers and ID and is older than 1973.  I have a friend that is restoring one
> from the ground up and it has no ID, No VIN and no papers, which would make
> it difficult to register when finished. He really only needs the numbers,
> but would buy the whole thing if it were cheap enough because of the parts.
> Thanks.
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> 

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Beater required
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:56:43 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh yeah. Completely restored from the ground up 1972 Land Rover Defender 110
TD5

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Pilkington [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 1:33 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Beater required

Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater Landy that still has
papers and ID and is older than 1973.  I have a friend that is restoring one
from the ground up and it has no ID, No VIN and no papers, which would make
it difficult to register when finished. He really only needs the numbers,
but would buy the whole thing if it were cheap enough because of the parts.
Thanks.
Mark Pilkington
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'G. Mugele'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:00:27 -0800
Subject: [lro] RE: Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 8:51 AM -0800 12/14/01, Faure, Marin wrote:

>>The factory supplied keys are very different for the
>door and ignition. The ignition key has a considerably larger head as
>well as being a little longer.  I can tell the difference between them in
>the
>dark by feel.  But perhaps the SIIIs sent to other markets didn't have
>as great a difference in the keys.  Or perhaps your SIII has been re-keyed
>sometime in the past, and the two keys are almost identical now.

>Nope....  knew the SIII from new and I know/knew of at least three 
others purchased new that had the same key arrangement.

Obviously the factory had no standard when it came to keys.  Like 
engine paint and a bunch of other things, I suspect they simply used 
components from whoever gave them the best price.  When a co-
worker managed to break the locking mechanism on the passenger 
door of my SIII a couple of years after I bought it, I inquired with 
the company I was getting my parts from, the original Atlantic British 
in California, about getting a replacement.  At that time, all the ignition 
and door lock keys Atlantic British was getting from Land Rover were 
as I have described.  While the two keys are not radically different in 
size, and neither one of them is very large, nowhere near as large as the 
keys used in today's vehicles,  they are noticeably different in head
shape and slightly different 
in length.  The differences are such that there is no way one could 
mistake one for the other in fishing around for the appropriate key 
in their pocket.  I have not had the vehicle re-keyed, and still use today 
the two keys that came with it.  I'm not sure what you mean by a Union 
key.  Both the ignition and door lock keys that came with my SIII 
have the Land Rover logo stamped on both sides of the heads.

>Mine was purchased from the 
>El Cerrito British-Leyland dealer (SF Bay Area) and therefore would 
>have been the same spec as any other Land Rover delivered to the west 
>coast or Hawaii.  From my perspective, yours is the odd one.

I purchased my SIII new from a dealer at the southern end of the 
San Francisco Bay area.  I can't recall the name, as it was a dealer 
my mother found for me.  I was living in Hawaii, so the car was, 
in effect, a mail order.  I didn't see it until it was deposited on the 
dock by Matson in Honolulu.  So it sounds like mine was similar 
to yours in terms of how it was set up for the market.  In subsequent 
years when I visited Atlantic British in northern California, I recall 
seeing factory-supplied keys identical to mine, including the Land 
Rover logo stamped on the heads.  So I'm guessing that Land 
Rover used several key and lock suppliers, which explains 
why you have seen several Land Rovers with keys identical to yours 
and why I have seen several with keys identical to mine.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 34
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:11:38 -0700
Reply-To: [email-masked]

DON'T get the SI 10, get the SI 12.  Fairly cheap you can upgrade to 140
amps.  The SI 10 isn't anywhere near that, plus it's taxed if you go much
beyond it's rated capacity.  I just put on a new SI 12 rated at 140 amps,
including the splash shield (for marine applications).  It works great,
especially for winching.  The only thing I would warn you about before hand
is that it takes a little more to get it excited.  With my setup, I have to
hit 1850 RPM after I start the engine or it doesn't start charging.  Also,
because my truck idles so low (600), if I leave it to sit idling for a few
minutes it seems to 'drop' until it no longer charges again.  The only times
this is an issue is when I am crawling for a long time or let it sit at
idle.  I couldn't be happier.

Kirk

--__--__--

Message: 35
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:52:12 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Keys & Pontifications ( was Re: Starter button vs
  key)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My '67 has three keys, as Gerry described. Ignition, front door and rear door.

GM still does this. Well, not the separate rear door key, but the separate 
ignition and doors.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:01:47 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I asked Nikki Lauda, the founder of Lauda
>Air and a Formula 1 racing driver of some
>repute, what he felt is the value of all the automation
>we are putting in our airplanes today.

Given his views on the automation in airplanes, I'd be very interested to 
hear what his views are on the current state of F1 driver aids :)

I think that viewpoint works well for items such as Hill Descent Control 
and traction control. These are electronic aids that replace something a 
driver could do themselves. But electronic ignition, ABS and multiplex 
wiring are all improvements to make cars work more efficiently, run cleaner 
and run longer.

As for real motoring - well, if real motoring includes breaking down at the 
side of the road, there's nothing like a basic car. We had an open house 
here at the Miata shop recently. Highly modified Miatas from all over the 
US showed. One car didn't make it under its own power - the Healey 3000 
that also came out. I went to rescue him with the Rover :) I've got a 1987 
Subaru and a 1990 Miata. One is highly electronic, one is a far simpler 
machine. The "simple" Subaru has problems when it has to go from 4000' to 
10600' altitude, it's grouchy when cold, doesn't give me much information 
about the operating state of the engine and is generally a less reliable 
automobile. The Miata runs sweetly anywhere, makes more power with a 
smaller engine, burns more cleanly, starts as fast as I can turn the key 
and has only once forced me to do roadside repairs - and that was due to 
some modifications of my own. With the electronics, I can spend more time 
driving and less time wrenching.

That said, I don't think I've ever enjoyed working on a car as much as I 
have on the Rover.

Keith

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:13:40 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Brake upgrades
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 14 Dec 2001, Brian Horner wrote:

> 
> Yeah, my brakes are just terrible.  In the city, I am cautious of my brakes
> and take everything really slow.  Off-road - I don't trust my brakes at all.
> When I stop on super steep grades, going uphill or downhill, my rig actually
> moves (ever so slightly) - millimeter by millimeter and that, to me, is just
> unacceptable.  I really feel like brakes, seatbelt systems and tires are
> acceptable things to "Modernize" on your Series vehicle - especially if you
> take it off-road or operate it in severe conditions (like towing for
> example).  I just can't believe that people in Series vehicles go off-road
> with original braking systems.  Maybe I need to redo mine...again.

The Series brakes aren't the world's best (you think the carbon fibre brakes
from a Porche will fit my 109?), they do work.  They should hold the truck
on anything you've got traction to drive up, and then some.  If they don't,
therre's something wrong.  Oil, grease, brake fluid on the shoes will cause
them to slip a tiny bit.

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:14:40 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>"simply messing about in cars" to paraphrase Ratty

I'm probably paraphrasing too--but I love that statement "there is 
nothing so pleasurable as simply messing about it boats."

:-)

jeff

--__--__--

Message: 39
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:18:25 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Fri, 14 Dec 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

> 
> Hello y'all,
> 
> most likely i am picking this up sat 8am and getting the mothership back on
> the road...trail if i am lucky. its delco part 321143. I would like to confirm
> that this is the correct unit. I will be getting one with double pulley as
> well. I will be emailing jim of the bayou rover page as well to see exactly
> what he has.

No idea what the part number is, but the application for the alternator that
I've got on my 109 is 75 Olds 88, V8 engine, with air-conditioning.
(air-con gets you the double pulley, I think.)

David

--__--__--

Message: 40
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:17:19 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Not sure which casing I have, but I use a 108 amp delco and also am 
very pleased.

jeff

--__--__--

Message: 41
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:28:33 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Keith Tanner wrote:

> >I asked Nikki Lauda, the founder of Lauda
> >Air and a Formula 1 racing driver of some
> >repute, what he felt is the value of all the automation
> >we are putting in our airplanes today.
>
> Given his views on the automation in airplanes, I'd be very interested to
> hear what his views are on the current state of F1 driver aids :)

How about those monster trucks that roar around inside stadiums....Don't they
have remote shut down controls that are in the hands of the "officials"?

Or did I make that up as a result of watching too much wrestling.......

--__--__--

Message: 42
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:32:57 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: What's new
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I went to a monster truck show. The brief monster interludes were separated 
by "quad wars", basically ATV racing. None of the guys were taking any 
discernible racing lines, and if the wrong guy got in front he would 
suddenly develop "transmission trouble". I never knew the trannys on those 
ATVs were so troublesome - they should look into that. They always seemed 
to start working fine again shortly, but not until after the rider had lost 
their place. Definitely the wrestling of the automotive world.

One of the quad riders tenderly proposed to his girlfriend during a break 
in the action. Would you believe that he won the next race? Good thing the 
guy who was about to lap him developed transmission trouble.

Keith

At 12:28 12/14/01, you wrote:

>Keith Tanner wrote:
>
> > >I asked Nikki Lauda, the founder of Lauda
> > >Air and a Formula 1 racing driver of some
> > >repute, what he felt is the value of all the automation
> > >we are putting in our airplanes today.
> >
> > Given his views on the automation in airplanes, I'd be very interested to
> > hear what his views are on the current state of F1 driver aids :)
>
>How about those monster trucks that roar around inside stadiums....Don't they
>have remote shut down controls that are in the hands of the "officials"?
>
>Or did I make that up as a result of watching too much wrestling.......
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
------------

--__--__--

Message: 43
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:46:34 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Erm.... yes.  No really this is for a restoration, but that is a very good
idea!!!!

Easton Trevor A wrote:

> Oh yeah. Completely restored from the ground up 1972 Land Rover Defender 110
> TD5
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Pilkington [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 1:33 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: [lro] Beater required
>
> Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater Landy that still has
> papers and ID and is older than 1973.  I have a friend that is restoring one
> from the ground up and it has no ID, No VIN and no papers, which would make
> it difficult to register when finished. He really only needs the numbers,
> but would buy the whole thing if it were cheap enough because of the parts.
> Thanks.
> Mark Pilkington
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 44
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:19:37 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] delco si10 63amp alt. who owns one?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Take a look at my article on OVLR.org. It details the
wiring and installation of a 10SI.

Except for the types running the 12SI, believe
everyone and his dog uses this one...either
double-pulley or space the alternator mount forward
about .950".

    ajr

--- [email-masked] wrote:
> 
> Hello y'all,
> 
> most likely i am picking this up sat 8am and getting
> the mothership back on
> the road...trail if i am lucky. its delco part
> 321143. I would like to confirm
> that this is the correct unit. I will be getting one
> with double pulley as
> well. I will be emailing jim of the bayou rover page
> as well to see exactly
> what he has.
> 
> rove on,
> chill willGet more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer
> download :
> http://explorer.msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 45
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 01 12:21:33 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater Landy that still has
>papers and ID and is older than 1973.  I have a friend that is restoring one
>from the ground up and it has no ID, No VIN and no papers, which would make
>it difficult to register when finished. He really only needs the numbers,
>but would buy the whole thing if it were cheap enough because of the parts.
>Thanks.

There is a number stamped on the frame. DMV's commonly see people who 
resurect vehicles that have no papers.  Generally you give them the ID 
stamped on the frame, a year and let them inspect the vehicle and they 
will issue you a set of valid papers.

Best thing to do is contect DMV, tell them what you have and ask what is 
required to get the vehicel registered.  A lot of times it is no more 
than signing a paper and letting them inspect it.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 46
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:22:51 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater
> Landy that still has
> papers and ID and is older than 1973. 

And how did he smuggle it in from Canada? No ID, no
papers...and a little longer than 88 or 109 wheelbase
- like 90 or 110?

Or is he planning on re-IDing it first?

Do yourself a favor - avoid the Vermont
checkpoints...those guys know what to look for and
catch them regularly.

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 47
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:38:20 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Of course the usual problem wiuth missing VIN's on old series trucks is
that a previous owver has replaced or rewelded the front forks, and
forgotten to restamp the number into the chassis. (We need a permit for
doing that in Denmark).

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
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--__--__--

Message: 48
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:36:18 -0700
Subject: [lro] Re: series spring over
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Jean-Leon,
As I know your truck is more or less not very stock (or Rover) to begin
with, I'd imagine that you wouldn't have too many issues with using non
Rover parts.  If I was going to do a spring over on a Rover, here's what I
would do.  1) Scrap the Rover axles because I think their number one
advantage is the coils.  Therefore, if you are insistent on using them then
simply trim the fenders, then build lots of armor!  If you weren't going to
use them, I'd go with a better geared and stonger axle as this sounds like
you do in fact want to use it for serious off-roading.  2) There is a fairly
easy setup that I think can accomidate your desires in one shot: early 80s
Toyota 4x4 truck or 4Runner until until 85.  If it has the 22R 4 cyl then it
will have 4.11 gearing in it as well, sprung over from the factory, nearly
equivalent in width axles, flat springs (which would also work *very well
under a 109), strong axles with the exeption of the birfield, and they are
even fairly closely offset to the Rover t-case.  Birfields can also be
eliminated and/or strengthened.  One of these trucks, particluarly in parts
form can be had very cheaply.

My $.02
Good luck!

Andre

--__--__--

Message: 49
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:59:44 -0800
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Beater required
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Alan,
    A good idea on the 110, but it really is an old restoration.  He has
a better chassis for it and the front forks of the old one were rusted
out.  The numbers are indistinguishable on the replacement. There are no
papers and the dataplate is gone.  It is obviously a series II or IIa
because the dash is in the center and the lights are on the grille not
the fenders.  It has no hard top or truck cab and the tranny is shot.
The rear tub is good and it has a windshield.  He is a realtor and got
it with a house he was listing.  He bought it for $350 out of the deal.
The engine runs but without the tranny, it is hard to see what else is
needed in the drivetrain. The DMV said to bring it down for a look, but
it would be the same pile of parts that he hauled home and they would
not be amused.  I thought that the ID off another wreck that will never
be rebuilt would be easier, but TerriAnn has a good point.

"Alan J. Richer" wrote:

> > Does anyone have a completely junk rusty old beater
> > Landy that still has
> > papers and ID and is older than 1973.
>
> And how did he smuggle it in from Canada? No ID, no
> papers...and a little longer than 88 or 109 wheelbase
> - like 90 or 110?
>
> Or is he planning on re-IDing it first?
>
> Do yourself a favor - avoid the Vermont
> checkpoints...those guys know what to look for and
> catch them regularly.
>
>
>
>
>
> =====
> Please ignore the following advertising.....
> Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
> your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
> or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 50
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] LRO List User named JL?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:48:07 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Yes...

and no.

The idea has been put on the backburner until I am able to gather funds and
put it into fruition. I have been talking about this a whole lot, making
limited progress. The main issue now is buying or renting a lathe and
milling machine... a critical step.

Right now my land rover is a a bit of a hybrid so I figured going to range
rover axles would be fitting - to try and keep as many parts on the vehicle
non-series land rover. I am a bit of a nut.

I hope to have a kit for 109's and 88's by the end of the summer, that is
Jeff is still interested in being a beta tester. Not sure if I want to sell
these, or simply sell the plans yet. I'll keep people posted.

J-L

>
> I was told that JL has recently been trying to convert to Disc Brakes and
> was wondering to what success, if any.  If you are or know JL, please
> forward me his email off-list - I would totally appreciate it!
>
> Thank you!
>
> Brian
>
>
> ------------------------
> http://www.roverme.org
> "Land Rover community, links and email services."
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 51
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:53:14 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] LRO List User named JL?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Right now my land rover is a a bit of a hybrid so I figured going to range
>rover axles would be fitting - to try and keep as many parts on the vehicle
>non-series land rover. I am a bit of a nut.

I think I just choked on my drink. This paragraph qualifies for 
"understatement of the year" in at least two places :)

J-L's truck is an excellent ad for thinking outside the box.

Keith

--__--__--

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