Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #183 - 51 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 03:10:15 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. 200Tdi in a Series III (Luca Ingianni)
   2. RE: Recreational GPS (Andy Woodward)
   3. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (Dick Joltes)
   4. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (RON WARD)
   5. Re: Battery and Disco '96 q? (RON WARD)
   6. Importing to US (Boundy, Jerome)
   7. Custom Car Hauler For Sale (Andrew H. Litkowiak)
   8. What you all don't know about batteries... (Bill Adams)
   9. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (John Cranfield)
  10. Re: Overdrive oils ([email-masked])
  11. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Jeff Berg)
  12. RE: Recreational GPS (Nick Danger)
  13. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Bill Adams)
  14. RE: Recreational GPS (Keith Tanner)
  15. Big Sky and British Pacific (Brian Horner)
  16. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Scott Wickham)
  17. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Alan J. Richer)
  18. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Jeff Berg)
  19. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Jeff Berg)
  20. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Scott Wickham)
  21. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Alan J. Richer)
  22. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Scott Wickham)
  23. Re: What you all don't know about batteries... (Jeff Berg)
  24. Re: Battery and Disco '96 q? (Gerald)
  25. Hi-Tach (A. P. (Sandy) Grice)
  26. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (Jean-Leon Morin)
  27. Re: Hi-Tach (Jeff Berg)
  28. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (Jeff Berg)
  29. Re: Batteries (Jean-Leon Morin)
  30. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (Jean-Leon Morin)
  31. 109 info (possibly new LRO) (Tom Proctor)
  32. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (marko.cosic)
  33. Re: Batteries (Alan J. Richer)
  34. Re: Batteries (John Cranfield)
  35. anti theft device (Edit 2)
  36. are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (joe mulqueen)
  37. RE: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (Vel Natarajan)
  38. Re: anti theft device (Alan J. Richer)
  39. Re: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (Edit 2)
  40. Re: anti theft device (Edit 2)
  41. Re: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (Alan J. Richer)
  42. Re: Batteries (Jeff Berg)
  43. It's a gas...or too much? (brian girasoli)
  44. Re: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? ([email-masked])
  45. Re: anti theft device ([email-masked])
  46. Re: anti theft device ([email-masked])
  47. Re: anti theft device (Paul Quin)
  48. Re: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (Paul Quin)
  49. RE: Importing to US (Vel Natarajan)
  50. Re: are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe? (Jim Hall)
  51. Re: what battery to buy for a IIA (Jim Hall)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: Luca Ingianni <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:41:26 +0100
Subject: [lro] 200Tdi in a Series III
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi all,

just wanted to tell you that there's a write-up available of someone who 
put a 200Tdi in a Series III. I haven't read much so can't comment on the 
quality. It's in German, but I could be convinced to translate it should 
anyone be interested.

It can be found at
http://www.viermalvier.de  (good off-road site if you speak German BTW)
under Technik -> Info&Umbau -> Motor

have fun,
	Luca

-- 
There are very few personal problems that cannot be solved through a
suitable application of high explosives.

--__--__--

Message: 2
From: "Andy Woodward" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:07:34 -0000
Subject: RE: [lro] Recreational GPS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> user friendly and the list goes on. Have a look at the EXREX line. In
> my opinion, Garmin has a substantial lead in the handheld world.

UI have an Etrex. Based on my experience of its hardware and 
firmware limitations, incdicating a rather ad-hoc approach to testing 
teh unit for actual usefullness before selling it to punters, I'd look 
elsewhere than Garmin if I  ever buy another GPS.

I am beginnning to strongly favour the approach where you get a 
Palm + the tiny Magellan receiver addon that plugs into a port and 
makes your Palm BECOME a GPS. Then of courseytou can 
download any maps from the web and have a PROPER mapping 
unit, far cheaper and more flexible than being tied into any one 
manufacturer's mapping softgware and maps. Get it all freeware 
off teh web and schoose the setup you like best..

--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:28:11 -0500
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

TAW opines:
 
> For another data point I've been using diehards for 30 plus years and I
> have never had one go bad within the warrenty period.  It was usualy long
> afterwards or I sold the vehicle first.
> 
> I replaced a diehard in '99 that had at least 10 years daily use because
> it would not fit in the location I had after the engine transplant.  Not
> because it was bad.
> 
> I suspect most car batterys will live a long life if you get one with a
> lot more capacity than you need, don't drain it down and keep it topped
> up with frequent use.

In my cases each DieHard was installed in a daily driver, at its rated
capacity.  I ran through three of the bloody things, and each died 
within 12-18 months.  There was nothing wrong with the car's charging 
system either (they checked after the second in-warrantly replacement, 
which was pro-rated of course).

In many cases it's not possible to put an over-rated battery into
a given car due to size issues.  And if you need to do this, there's
something wrong with the battery's design or rating.
 
> Deep draining and letting one sit just seem to shorten the life
> expectency a lot.

This is true, but does not apply to my experience.  

During the time in question, I (sad admission) worked for Sears and 
saw the huge pile of warranty-replacement batteries come in.  Most 
were far short of their expected lifespan; it was a running joke in 
the auto department that they were going to build a new garage bay out 
of the dead cells.

All this said, Sears products are very binary--people either love
the bloody things and have no problem, or have no luck at all.

dj
1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:43:20 -0500
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Champion Vortex.  I think Champion makes the Optima or vice versa.  Anyway I chucked the Interstate boat anchor that came in my 1995 RRC and put in a Vortex gell cell I bought from Advance Auto Parts for $80 and wow what a difference.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 12/09/01 01:44AM >>>

Well, I wouldn't touch a Sears battery with a 10-foot cattle 
prod--there's a reason
they used the name "Die Hard."  That's usually what they do, in the 
worst possible
place and time.  I've seen 36- and 48-month models pack up in a year or 
slightly
more.

Not sure about the Optimas, but Interstate and several other companies 
seem to be
manufacturing decent ones these days.

dj

Rolston wrote:

>Connecticut here too....where in CT?  I woudl go to NAPA or Sears and get
>the biggest conventional battery you can fit in there.  Jim
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked] 
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:51:00 -0500
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Battery and Disco '96 q?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

No the SE7.  I think it was the SDC in 1996 that had the cloth, no wood and 5speed.

Ron W

>>> [email-masked] 12/09/01 11:04AM >>>

If the terminals are pionting the wrong way, turn the battery around!

I had a coil question, but the rro list rejected me (maybe couild smell the 
90 wt?)
NAS Disco 1996 SE7:  did any come over as 5 speed, or was the level of trim 
including an autobox?

-Rik
1960 SWB SW

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp 
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
[email-masked] 
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: "Boundy, Jerome" <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:10:18 -0600
Subject: [lro] Importing to US
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks to all for your feedback - it's reassuring to know theres such a
wealth of experience available.

Thanks for clarifying the 25 year regs. I think the fact the last guy I
spoke to was selling a recently restored '68 wasn't helping.

I will definitely check out the Illinois state regs and tax issues next as
IL seems to be quite picky generally speaking on all such matters.  How to
drive the vehicle back from the east coast to Chicago with no plates????

Can anyone divulge a brokers name and number they've have good luck with?
I've heard horror stories about folks being ripped off by these guys trying
to add misc. charges last minute.

The costs quoted sound better than I'd heard also, but those also usually
come from the prospective sellers mouth!

As a Brit. I thoroughly agree with the Autotrader route - which as Frank
mentions is online - I regularly check it out now, but in formative years
spent many, many hours leafing its pages for deals!  I honestly believe it's
the reason I wear glasses today!  Certainly that or just the local paper
classified or free advertising papers.  

I am concerned that many wasted trips are needed before you unearth a good
one - and I will be visiting for two weeks only.  

Thanks again - the quest continues.

Jerome

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:21:16 -0600
From: "Andrew H. Litkowiak" <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>, LandCruiser List
  <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked]'"
  <[email-masked]>, Diesel List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Custom Car Hauler For Sale
Reply-To: [email-masked]

It's got surface rust. It's ugly. It needs paint.

Okay, we got that out of the way. Now for the good stuff.

This is a custom built car hauler, all steel. The rails are extra wide
(23") and the entire trailer is 7' from rail edge to rail edge. The
rails are 14' long, with the total length at 18' from tongue to tail.

This is a twin axle, four hub electric brake unit. That means heavy
duty stopping power for those heavy loads. Most trailers come with
only one axle set up with brakes. To add the extra set drives the
price way up. 

The ramps are heavy steel and can handle almost any load. They can be
flipped up or detached and stowed below the trailer. The trailer is
low enough to accommodate drive on/drive off without ramps for any 4WD
vehicle.

Early this year, all mechanicals and wiring were replaced/repaired.
This includes new brakes, bearings, races, etc. The tires are in good
shape and there is a brand new spare to go with it. All told, there is
$600 in parts and professional labor done this year.

This baby is ugly, but it's solid as a rock. The wide rails will
handle the largest tires with no overhang. If you've been looking for
a deal on a great trailer, this is it. I'm not going to put money into
cosmetics just so I can sell it. You get to wire wheel and paint it.

To buy this unit new, you'd have to go custom and pay $2000-$3000. For
some ugly pictures, go to:

http://www.ciadental.com/trailer1.JPG
http://www.ciadental.com/trailer2.JPG

Why am I selling it? Two reasons.

First, I'm doing a lot of stuff around here that requires a multi
purpose flat trailer (just purchased). The car hauler doesn't handle
lumber and scrap very well. I can't justify having both trailers here.

Second, I need the money :-)

Asking $1200 OBO. Located in the Chicago area. Recent receipts
available.

Andy Litkowiak

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:21:34 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Could fill a swimming pool. 
For a starting battery, you look to the CCA rating. The higher the
rating the more reserve capacity, and consequently the heavier it will
be.
For wussy little Rover engines, you can buy the cheapest thing and it'll
do just fine. Buy one that has a good warranty, as most car batteries
will go bad in the worst places as they're all made CHEEP CHEEP. Biggest
thing is to keep your cable connections clean and tight.
When buying a battery that your life depends on, then go buy a Surette.
They weigh 80 pounds and up.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:51:18 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bill Adams wrote:
>.
> For a starting battery, you look to the CCA rating. The higher the
> rating the more reserve capacity, and consequently the heavier it will
> be.

Actually Bill ole buddy you are wrong too. The CCA rating
(cold cranking amps) is simple a rating of the battery's ability to
deliver its charge and NOT the rating of how much energy is stored.
So you can have a small battery that will deliver its energy in a hurry
(high CCA) but only for a short time and a huge battery that delivers
it's energy slowly.
The measure of the power stored in a battery is it's Amp Hour capacity.
Note how ever that this is rarely quoted these days because most cheap
batteries do not have high
ratings on both.
Do not let sales person tell you that the tiny battery with the high CCA
will be a good fit for your vehicle.
Get the one that fills the battery box AND has the highest CCA because
this is the one likely to have the highest AH capacity too.
John and Muddy

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:00:23 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] Overdrive oils
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 12/9/01 10:25:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Okay list, I have heard about this amazing Hi-tac(h/k) stuff for some time.
> I have never seen it.  What kind of container does it come in?  

I get it in a ~ 1 quart size squeeze bottle which is blue.  I buy it at 
Advance Auto Parts but I've seen it in Target and Ames stores.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:03:55 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Let's see here...

I've done the due diligence necessary to design the electrical plot 
for a couple of cruising boats (house and starting banks) and 
designed, built, maintained and used a number of mobile technical 
systems for outdoor theatrical production that ran on 12 Volts. So 
I'll have to say that I disagree with both of your statements.

FIRST

I am not the worlds greatest expert on "storage" batteries but I'll 
bet I'm ahead of the curve. As I look to purchase my own liveaboard 
boat I'm staying current with my research too--and talking with guys 
who really (really) KNOW batteries. So maybe in my case it's a wading 
pool? I think that's also true for some others who have commented on 
this thread. You're welcome to disagree with us, but your blatent 
disrespect of the opinions--or at least the knowledge of those 
opining--is a little much.

AND

You can look at the RATED CCA figure until you go crosseyed but if 
that cheep, cheep, battery battery doesn't deliver on that 
rating--whether it's out of the box or two years later after the 
plates have started to go--then it may NOT start your wussy little 
Rover engine. Particularly in the midst of a little something that we 
up north, and I put myself near the southern extreme of this group, 
like to call winter.

Reserve comes into play both in terms of the batteries ability to run 
accessories--winch, booming stereo, work lights and also how deeply 
the battery is depleted--and how quickly it will recover--during 
starting attempts. If the car doe

If saving the $$$ works for you that's great. Sitting in an empty, 
dark wet train station parking lot--even if it only happened once--is 
enough to convince me to use good batteries (which don't necessarily 
to cost more in the long run) and replace 'em when they start to get 
marginal. (Voltage recovery test with a digital multimeter.) Life 
threatening? Maybe not--but it's a pretty long walk to anyplace from 
that station and (my bad) I'm not always dressed for winter survival 
while working in NYC.

When it comes to the new cars in the family it seems we've needed to 
replace the original battery after about two years...and the 
replacements seem to last until we sell the car--which indicates some 
difference in quality. Dad's "old" Acura went 8 years on the 
replacement, Mom's Wagoneer is on year 8 and does need another--the 
interior lights (hatch left open) have drained that battery a couple 
of times., Current Acura just got it's new battery and the BMW hasn't 
needed one under my ownership (getting close) but the original owners 
had it replaced once already.

Rover went through the original battery that I got it with, one Die 
Hard "Offroad" or whatever they called (3 years) and is currently 
running an Optima red top. The Die Hard was replaced after it kept me 
in Maine for an extra hour--trying to get the car to turn over the 
day Amiee and I were leaving Winter Romp. Hardly life 
threatening--but it got the day off to a bad start. (Pardon the pun.) 
Next time I think I'll put in a bank of Hawkers and stop worrying 
about it all--'cept the mockery I'm sure to endure for spending the 
money. ;-) And the Jeep is definitely getting one--because going out 
to rescue mom at the drop of a hat is definitely not worth saving my 
father any money. ;-)

Rover On!
jeff
jumping into the deep end of the swimming pool of ignorance.

--__--__--

Message: 12
Subject: RE: [lro] Recreational GPS
From: Nick Danger <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: 10 Dec 2001 11:07:35 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

On Mon, 2001-12-10 at 08:07, Andy Woodward wrote:
 
> I am beginnning to strongly favour the approach where you get a 
> Palm + the tiny Magellan receiver addon that plugs into a port and 
> makes your Palm BECOME a GPS. Then of courseytou can 
> download any maps from the web and have a PROPER mapping 
> unit, far cheaper and more flexible than being tied into any one 
> manufacturer's mapping softgware and maps. Get it all freeware 
> off teh web and schoose the setup you like best..

Have you tried this solution yet? I investigated this way but I have a
visor which has no external power source and I really wanst ready to
kill my batteries. I have seen some nice mounts for the car and I think
the visor GPS unit has an external antenna mount which would be nice to
have!

-Nick

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:34:48 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

As I was. I should have said "20 hour reserve capacity" rather than CCA.
CCA is merely a rough guide.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:09:33 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Recreational GPS
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I am beginnning to strongly favour the approach where you get a
>Palm + the tiny Magellan receiver addon that plugs into a port and
>makes your Palm BECOME a GPS.

I've got an Etrex mumblemumble (the green one). I'm very happy with it for 
one reason that would absolutely prevent me for going with the Palm 
solution - it's tough. I can drop it in the Moab sand, leave it outside 
overnight, drop it in a stream and generally abuse it without worrying 
about the integrity of the unit in a Land Rover environment. I bring it 
with me when I'm mountain biking - the Palm setup would not be happy in 
this type of use. I don't use maps in the GPS - I have paper for that - but 
I do save various routes into it. Works just fine in combination with my 
Topo maps.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:55:20 -0800
From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Big Sky and British Pacific
Reply-To: [email-masked]

If anyone has had dealings with Big Sky Rovers or British Pacific and would
like to write a little review on them please contact me directly (off-list).

Ciao and thank you!

Brian 

------------------------
http://www.roverme.org
"Land Rover community, links and email services."

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:13:09 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Maybe not--but it's a pretty long walk to anyplace from
that station

  But what about using one of the most interesting belt-and-suspender set
ups on our lovely Rovers, the hand crank?  Maybe best to crank up a
generator equipped LR but, I'd have to try it.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:23:29 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Scott Wickham <[email-masked]> wrote:
>   But what about using one of the most interesting
> belt-and-suspender set
> ups on our lovely Rovers, the hand crank?  Maybe
> best to crank up a
> generator equipped LR but, I'd have to try it.

Not on Jeffo's truck - the capstan winch puts paid to
that. Cranking that little short-handled nighmare is
likely a good path to a broken arm...

I must confess, though, I hand-crank Miss J. acouple
of times a week just to freak out the local IBM
wingtip population...

Such fun...8*)

           ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:35:37 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>   But what about using one of the most interesting belt-and-suspender set
>ups on our lovely Rovers, the hand crank?

You caught me Scooter. The situation I was reporting was with my 
GTI--pre-Rover. Of course I can always use the hand crank on the 
Rover--or a rolling start on either vehicle if I have a hill. I used 
to deliberately use the crank on the Rover--particularly on cold 
winter nights--figuring if I ever HAD to do it, I'd be better 
prepared.

Unfortunately, using the crank these days means laying down on the 
ground to untie the cord that prevents the capstan winch drive shaft 
from rubbing against the drive dawg and manually feeding the shaft 
into the dawg. Once the car starts (if it starts--she can be hard to 
turn over in cold weather) I can disengage the winch using the 
lever--but it'll rub against the dawg and make a terrible clatter 
until I crawl underneath the truck and tie it back again.

None of this is my idea of fun while wearing a jacket and tie. ;-) 
Would I do it? Sure, if I had to. (I generally have coveralls and a 
tarp in the Rover too--so I should be able to mostly protect my 
clothes.) Would I rather have a good battery and not have to--you 
betcha!

rgds,

jeff

--__--__--

Message: 19
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:43:41 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Not on Jeffo's truck - the capstan winch puts paid to
>that. Cranking that little short-handled nighmare is

One more detail regarding the situation in Maine. As I recall, I'd 
removed that winch shaft entirely on Saturday because it started 
dragging on the dawg--the was pre "tie it back" days. To crank the 
truck that day I would have had to re-assemble that bodgie nightmare 
shaft in temperatures that were literally 40-below. (I would have 
used AA before I done that.) Fortunately, she caught on the last 
attempt I was going to make (after 3 multi-crank attempts at 15 and 
30 minute intervals.)

I should also add that the following year in Maine I bought one of 
those portable booster packs at Marden's--very convenient piece of 
kit, that.

But I still hold that a good battery is the first line of defense.

jeff

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 13:45:32 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

  I forgot you had the capstan.  Ok, just thinking crazy out loud here:  If
someone has an ele. winch, the batt. is good but, the starter is dead, I
wonder if you could drag the car in gear with the winch at get it started?
Maybe 1st low range?  Not being able to be push/gravity started being taken
into effect.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 21
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:52:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Scott Wickham <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>   I forgot you had the capstan.  Ok, just thinking
> crazy out loud here:  If
> someone has an ele. winch, the batt. is good but,
> the starter is dead, I
> wonder if you could drag the car in gear with the
> winch at get it started?
> Maybe 1st low range?  Not being able to be
> push/gravity started being taken
> into effect.
> 

I don't think you could turn the engine fast enough
against compression, but it might be worth a try some
evening in Ottawa....more fun than drinking beer ad
swatting blackflies....8*)

               ajr
> Scooter
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 22
From: "Scott Wickham" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:01:29 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

But I still hold that a good battery is the first line of defense.

  And 2 is better.  When I rebuild Sherman I'm planning on a 2 batt. split
charge system.  And hopefully a winch set up I saw in an old issue of LRO
(thought of another advantage to this rigging with the hand
crank/winch-in-the-way talk).  It's a 90 set up for serious 4X4 work and had
an 8274 mounted at the rear crossmember, facing forward.  The article was
called "The cable car".  He had the winch cable running forward along the
chassis leg and out the front with a roller fairlead.  When you want to
winch normal, just pull out the cable and go for it.  When you want to lower
the truck down a steep hill, pull a loop of cable off the back of the drum,
put in your snatch block and run that doubled cable to your anchor point.
BUT, when necessary, he could take the hook off the end of the cable (it was
on there with a D ring), pull it half way back the chassis, and run it
vertical out of the top of the truck thru a special fairlead (like on a
101FC) mounted to the roll bar and run that cable out sideways to keep the
truck from tipping over on a steep off camber slope.  Or pull the truck onto
two left or right side wheels to get under there and work on something,
change a flat, what ever.  I liked that design.
  I've got another Series truck frame with a 3" lift welded onto it so
Sherman's going to get a rebuild onto that.  Someday.  I want to do it right
so I'll have to save up some $$.

Scooter

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:02:32 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] What you all don't know about batteries...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>  more fun than drinking beer

Huh?!? Read that again...slowly. Now tell us all where you went wrong.

LOL

jab

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: Gerald <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Battery and Disco '96 q?
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:06:15 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

We "required" the dual sun roofs and rear jump seats and I went back and
forth on auto versus 5 speed so I assume it was an option for th SE7.

On Sun, 09 Dec 2001 10:04:59 -0600, you wrote:

. . . .
>NAS Disco 1996 SE7:  did any come over as 5 speed, or was the level of trim 
>including an autobox?
>
>-Rik
>1960 SWB SW

--
Gerald
[email-masked]

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:18:39 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "A. P. (Sandy) Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Hi-Tach
Reply-To: [email-masked]

"Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Okay list, I have heard about this amazing Hi-tac(h/k) stuff for some time.
>I have never seen it.  What kind of container does it come in?  What does it
>look like?  Who in Canada carries it?  I have an OD that is fairly loud that
>I would like to try it in before I try full synthetic to compare.

Hi-Tach is a high viscocity (140 weight?) oil with 'cling' additives, kinda
like they put in chain saw bar oil.  Looks/pours like honey.  Put a drop
between thumb and forefinger and you'll make little threads or strings when
you separate you fingers.  In US auto parts stores, they used to advertise
their product with a lucite case filled with nylon gears, the lowest of
which touched a pool of oil.  Turn the crank and the oil would climb all
the dozen or so gears wheels in the case.  Kinda neat....

I don't know if the parent company or product has been bought-out or what,
but Hi-Tach is a whole lot rarer than it used to be.  Supposedly Lucas
Chemical (not *that* Lucas....) makes a similar oil additive.  Ask the
sales droid at the local auto place for an oil additive with cling properties.

Cheers

	*-----"jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary"----*
	|                 A. P. "Sandy" Grice                  |
	|    The Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd    |
	|     1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
	*------------------------------------------------------*

--__--__--

Message: 26
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:40:44 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have unfortunately had a lot of exposure to dead batteries.

I work for one of the biggest chain stores in Canada that sells batteries.
There are many things I have learned.

New batteries are not made like the old ones. The quality and reliability of
batteries has decreased for a couple of reasons. Most new cars are smaller,
start easier, and vibrate a lot less. They don't need as much "beef" in the
plate contact area, and they don't live long when in use in a harsh
environment. Plus, they are made cheaper and cheaper.

Often, the big CCA batteries are the ones that die out really quickly. I
would not recomment buying anything over 750CCA if its not an oversize
(industrial case) battery, especially for winching and diesels. The problem
is that there is so little electrolyte in the battery because of the massive
plates and surface areas, that they tend to overheat and die out quickly as
the heat has less liquid to transfer to.

I usually recommend going with the biggest case size you can find with the
smallest CCA, and not necessarily the best warranty. Interestingly, when I
pull a crusty old Canadian tire battery out of a 70's relic, it's always a
cheap one, never a high power one. Small goes dead quicker, but seems to not
produce enough juice to cook itself.

J-L

----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA

>
> TAW opines:
>
> > For another data point I've been using diehards for 30 plus years and I
> > have never had one go bad within the warrenty period.  It was usualy
long
> > afterwards or I sold the vehicle first.
> >
> > I replaced a diehard in '99 that had at least 10 years daily use because
> > it would not fit in the location I had after the engine transplant.  Not
> > because it was bad.
> >
> > I suspect most car batterys will live a long life if you get one with a
> > lot more capacity than you need, don't drain it down and keep it topped
> > up with frequent use.
>
> In my cases each DieHard was installed in a daily driver, at its rated
> capacity.  I ran through three of the bloody things, and each died
> within 12-18 months.  There was nothing wrong with the car's charging
> system either (they checked after the second in-warrantly replacement,
> which was pro-rated of course).
>
> In many cases it's not possible to put an over-rated battery into
> a given car due to size issues.  And if you need to do this, there's
> something wrong with the battery's design or rating.
>
> > Deep draining and letting one sit just seem to shorten the life
> > expectency a lot.
>
> This is true, but does not apply to my experience.
>
> During the time in question, I (sad admission) worked for Sears and
> saw the huge pile of warranty-replacement batteries come in.  Most
> were far short of their expected lifespan; it was a running joke in
> the auto department that they were going to build a new garage bay out
> of the dead cells.
>
> All this said, Sears products are very binary--people either love
> the bloody things and have no problem, or have no luck at all.
>
> dj
> 1974 SIII Airportable, "Smudger"
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:59:23 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Hi-Tach
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Sandy shares:
>a lucite case filled with nylon gears, the lowest of
>which touched a pool of oil.  Turn the crank and the oil would climb all
>the dozen or so gears wheels in the case.  Kinda neat....

AND

>Supposedly Lucas
>Chemical (not *that* Lucas....) makes a similar oil additive.

I've seen that very display used for the Lucas Oil Stabilizer 
additive. Sold at finer parts stores (and my mechanics--I always play 
with the display while filling out the paperwork) everywhere.

Supposed to be good stuff actually--not that I want to get into the 
oil additive/snake oil debate again.

jab

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:01:37 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I usually recommend going with the biggest case size you can find with the
>smallest CCA, and not necessarily the best warranty.

And what's your take on Cells in a battery J-L? Do you think they 
should all be sealed and operational? ;-)

jeff
Who once pulled J-L's battery--or what was left of it--out of a 
crusty old relic.

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Batteries
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:07:14 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> The place I bought mine was a local battery rebuilding
> shop - grubby place on an industrial back street in
> Lowell - but that didn't bother me in the slightest as
> they also had no problem in taking the 5 years'
> suppply of dead car batteries I had lying about the
> place. Let's see AutoZone do that w/o a half-hour
> argument.... 8*)
>
Errh?

Used batteries are worth money! The zinc is worth a mint, so most places
will take them for recycling. Any metal recycler will PAY you for them.
Around here it's 5$ canadian per battery... The monster 6V ones we had for
tractors were worth 10$!

J-L

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:10:04 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Oh yeah,

and tie those batteries down. Don't let them float around the engine
compartment unhindered to burn dime-sized holes in the case. Especially not
on 3000+ km road trips.

thanks Jeff. As you know I am the battery expert, especially for reliability
and long life.

J-L

>
> And what's your take on Cells in a battery J-L? Do you think they
> should all be sealed and operational? ;-)

--__--__--

Message: 31
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 15:13:17 -0500
From: Tom Proctor <[email-masked]>
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] 109 info (possibly new LRO)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm staring to search around for 109 2-door soft top. This has obviously
lead me toward the exMOD's available in the USA. I've found all sorts of
former ambulances in all sorts of conditions. The questions I have are:

1. What were *standard* features that deemed them Military vs. civilian
models?
2. What differences exist between a GS109 and a 109-ambulance/tub swap.
3. Anything special with the ambulance drive train vs a GS109?
4. What about a Mil III vs. Mil IIa (personal preference aside)?

Thanks,

Tom Proctor
96 Disco

--__--__--

Message: 32
From: "marko.cosic" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:04:18 -0000
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>I usually recommend going with the biggest case size you can find with the
>smallest CCA, and not necessarily the best warranty.

Like going for a 5.7 litre V8 tuned for 140bhp as opposed to a 2 litre 4-pot
tuned for 140bhp then?

I'm in the UK, so some tradenames may be different, but what's your take on
'calcium technology' batteries? They come in a bigger case than the standard
types, but with the same CCA and a 'lifetime' (so long as you are the origional
owner) warranty.

What's the going rate for 60Ah of Hawkers in Canada/the States? Here they're
unbelievably expensive. Cheapest I've found is for 1995 manufacture, 14Ah
batteries, #25 ($40) each!

Marko

--__--__--

Message: 33
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:23:52 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Batteries
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> >
> Errh?
> 
> Used batteries are worth money! The zinc is worth a
> mint, so most places
> will take them for recycling.

Not in the good old You Ess anymore. At least here in
the People's Republic of Massachusetts they charge you
to dispose of them....

               aj"Thank you EPA....."r

=====
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Message: 34
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 19:03:57 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Batteries
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Here in Nova Scotia there's a guy who comes around every year or so and
buys my used batteries for $2 a piece and $5 for the large truck or
tractor jobs.
John and Muddy

"Alan J. Richer" wrote:
> 
> --- Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
> 
> > >
> > Errh?
> >
> > Used batteries are worth money! The zinc is worth a
> > mint, so most places
> > will take them for recycling.
> 
> Not in the good old You Ess anymore. At least here in
> the People's Republic of Massachusetts they charge you
> to dispose of them....
> 
>                aj"Thank you EPA....."r
> 
> =====
> Please ignore the following advertising.....
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

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Message: 35
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 00:46:30 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: UK Land Rover owners list <[email-masked]>,
  International Land Rover Owners List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] anti theft device
Reply-To: [email-masked]

The recent threads about anti-theft devices got me thinking.

It would be simple to drill a clean hole through the steering column -
inside the motor compartment which would allow for a split pin to be
inserted through the housing tube and inner column- that way the
steering would LOCK, and nobody but a subscriber to this list would even
think of looking for the pin...

Just a thought...
:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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Message: 36
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:21:47 -0800 (PST)
From: joe mulqueen <[email-masked]>
To: LRO <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hello,
I've read and heard of people using PVC plumbing pipe
in hot air ducting systems for old Landrover
heater/defroster systems.  I've also done some web
searching and found quite a few sites cautioning
against its use in heated applications because it can
emit hydrogen chloride gasses above 350F degrees.  If
so, is it safe to use where air temps could near 200+
degs?  And why do stores recommend against PVC
plumbing for hot water systems in homes?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'67 SIIA 
(with Mt. Mansfield heater system)
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
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--__--__--

Message: 37
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:39:31 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My Land Rover came with a home-made PVC system for routing the air from the
engine-compartment-mounted heater core/blower to the interior.  Let me
assure you it gets nowhere NEAR 200 degrees F.  It's a Smiths core from the
junkyard so I'm assuming it's safe.

I can't say what it would be like if you had a really efficient heater core
in there.  Besides, won't the thermostat keep the coolant temperature below
200 degrees anyway?  (What's a LR thermostat run at?)

Rgds,
Vel

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of joe mulqueen
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:22 PM
> To: LRO
> Subject: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
>
>
>
> Hello,
> I've read and heard of people using PVC plumbing pipe
> in hot air ducting systems for old Landrover
> heater/defroster systems.  I've also done some web
> searching and found quite a few sites cautioning
> against its use in heated applications because it can
> emit hydrogen chloride gasses above 350F degrees.  If
> so, is it safe to use where air temps could near 200+
> degs?  And why do stores recommend against PVC
> plumbing for hot water systems in homes?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '67 SIIA
> (with Mt. Mansfield heater system)
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 38
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:09:01 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] anti theft device
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Unless you're talking a REAL skinny pin I'd be
concerned about the loss of material...

It's a helluvan idea, though.

                 ajr

--- Edit 2 <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> The recent threads about anti-theft devices got me
> thinking.
> 
> It would be simple to drill a clean hole through the
> steering column -
> inside the motor compartment which would allow for a
> split pin to be
> inserted through the housing tube and inner column-
> that way the
> steering would LOCK, and nobody but a subscriber to
> this list would even
> think of looking for the pin...
> 
> Just a thought...
> :-)
> 
> Adrian Redmond
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------
> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
> Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
> ---------------------------------------------------
> telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
> telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
> telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
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> ---------------------------------------------------
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> [email-masked]
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Message: 39
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 02:18:26 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Given that the water in the engine boils at 1000C the heater system and
airflow should never exceed this. My bet is that the warm air never
exceeds 650C - for fahrenheit on the other side of the pond, someone
will have to figure the equivalent.

Duct tape is fine for heat (at least that sort of heat) but takes poorly
to cold. Its adhedsion falls with the temperature, and it is poor to
withstand oil/water/cleaning etc. Big heat skrink sleeving (or a new
duct) is the best route.

Having said that, there are plenty of series wagons out the running with
duct tape - for years...

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
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Message: 40
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 02:19:15 +0100
From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
Organization: Channel 6 Television Denmark
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] anti theft device
Reply-To: [email-masked]

3-4mm should do it - and shound not weaken the shaft too much..

:-)
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
e-mail                       [email-masked]
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Message: 41
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:19:24 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

--- Edit 2 <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Given that the water in the engine boils at 1000C
> the heater system and
> airflow should never exceed this. My bet is that the
> warm air never
> exceeds 650C - for fahrenheit on the other side of
> the pond, someone
> will have to figure the equivalent.

Adrian dropped a bit here.....8*)

Methinks he meant 100 C and 65 C respectively - 212F
and and 175 F or thereabouts.

TO me this smells like a solution to my heating duct
problems in the Series II...I need to find SOME way to
get heat to my feet in that RHD beast.

           ajr

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
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Message: 42
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:20:04 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Batteries
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Here in Nova Scotia there's a guy who comes around every year or so and
>buys my used batteries for $2 a piece and $5 for the large truck or
>tractor jobs.

That's nice. Here in CT we PAY $5 each for the privilege of legally 
disposing of batteries. Of course less savory folk just avoid the 
expense by tossing 'em in the landfill while nobody is looking--which 
makes the whole system kind of flawed.

jeff

--__--__--

Message: 43
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:41:50 -0800 (PST)
From: brian girasoli <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] It's a gas...or too much?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Evening,

Over the past few days, I've noticed that after I warm
up my '67 IIa, around 3-4 minutes into it it'll
sputter and I'll have to either keep my foot on the
gas or open up the throttle to keep it going.

Today, I went to start it up, and it coughed a couple
times trying to start, then wouldn't catch at all.
And, there was a strong odor of gas trying to get it
going. To note: I had the choke pulled all the way
out, but still no dice.

Before I tackle the art of "carbourater adjustment," I
just wanted to write and make sure that this is what
it is. Anyone else know what it could be, if not the
carbourater? All the cylinders are firing (The
original owner had hooked up these diodes to each
cylinder that go off when they fire - another
enjoyable intricacy) and I don't believe the plugs to
be bad.

Any info you have, please pass it along. Thanks! -brian
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 44
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:07:16 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 12/10/2001 8:13:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< Given that the water in the engine boils at 1000C the heater system and
 airflow should never exceed this. My bet is that the warm air never
 exceeds 650C -  >>

Is there a decimal place missing here?  Actually I suspect with the pressure 
cap on the radiator, The water actually boils probably closer to 110-120C.  
(Boiling in Farenheit is 212 and most thermostats are 165-195 F).  I figure 
the Rover engine will get to about 220 before boiling over.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 45
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:40:30 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] anti theft device
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 12/10/01 3:43:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> The recent threads about anti-theft devices got me thinking.
> 
> 

Me too, and that's not necessarily a pretty thing...

How about a hinged floorboard which could flip up and securely cover the 
accelerator, clutch and brake pedals.  Theft resistant, after padlocking it 
in the up position, anyway. When not in use, you could lower it to sit flat 
on the floor, out of the way. It wouldn't be any trouble until you hit big 
ruts or something.

Er these are rovers , and we hit ruts all the time. Never mind.

Zack

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Message: 46
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 22:01:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] anti theft device
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My favorite involves the Halon fire suppression system and a recording
saying something about the anti-thieft system releasing poisonous gas. 
Then the fire system is triggered.  Bet that would be a fast get away.

Chris

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Message: 47
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:24:52 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] anti theft device
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I still just pocket the distributor rotor if I'm leaving the Rover in
questionable company for a while.

I had to laugh the other week when I was riding over from Vancouver on one
of our majestic BC Ferries.  500 cars below decks and we ran into some rough
seas that made the boat shudder a bit.  300 car alarms going off at once
sure make a racket!

I mean it's not like someone will be stealing your car in the middle of the
voyage...

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----

>
> My favorite involves the Halon fire suppression system and a recording
> saying something about the anti-thieft system releasing poisonous gas.
> Then the fire system is triggered.  Bet that would be a fast get away.
>
> Chris

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Message: 48
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:35:32 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

ajr writes "> Methinks he meant 100 C and 65 C respectively - 212F
> and and 175 F or thereabouts.
>
> TO me this smells like a solution to my heating duct
> problems in the Series II...I need to find SOME way to
> get heat to my feet in that RHD beast."

If your duct work is the same size as in my SII I found some sump pump pipe
at Home Hardware that works great.  Black, flexible and $10.00 for 20 feet.

Paul in Victoria.

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Message: 49
From: "Vel Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [lro] Importing to US
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 22:52:56 -0600
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> Of Boundy, Jerome
>
> I will definitely check out the Illinois state regs and tax issues next as
> IL seems to be quite picky generally speaking on all such matters.  How to
> drive the vehicle back from the east coast to Chicago with no plates????

With the supporting paperwork (UK Reg papers, import papers, etc) you are
given a fixed amount of time (somewhere between 1-3 months), to drive it
with the plates of the country of origin before having to have state plates
on it.  I drove my LR from Newark, NJ to Buffalo, NY with the original Brit
plates with no hassles from State Troopers or local constabulary.

I originally had a friend register it in NY for me as I didn't come back to
the US for another 6 months.  I then drove it from Buffalo to Chicago and
had it easily registered here.  I remember my friend had a bit of trouble
getting it registered in NY, but it may only be because he wasn't as
familiar with the paperwork.

> Can anyone divulge a brokers name and number they've have good luck with?
> I've heard horror stories about folks being ripped off by these
> guys trying
> to add misc. charges last minute.

I dealt with a broker in Newark port authority building.  I'll never forget
his name.  William B. Skinner.  When I arrived in the US to get my truck, he
charged me $200 more than his original quote over the phone in the UK.  We
had a big, ugly argument, and I still paid $100 more than the original quote
and got the heck out of there.  I could have done the whole thing myself for
about $100. I paid him about $250 in the end.  Not a terrible lot, but he
didn't have any explanation for the increase in price from his original
quote and he never denied giving me the original quote.  I asked him again
and again in his office how his price increase by $200 dollars and he never
answered me.

I recommend doing it yourself if you have the time to do the legwork and
paperwork between the shipper and customs.  It's not hard to do.  If I were
to import another vehicle, I'd do it myself.

Rgds,
Vel

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Message: 50
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:01:52 -0700
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
Reply-To: [email-masked]

With a 180 deg thermostat, and the temp gauge at a steady 185, my air
temp was in the 160 degree range with a kodiak.

Vel Natarajan wrote:
> 
> My Land Rover came with a home-made PVC system for routing the air from the
> engine-compartment-mounted heater core/blower to the interior.  Let me
> assure you it gets nowhere NEAR 200 degrees F.  It's a Smiths core from the
> junkyard so I'm assuming it's safe.
> 
> I can't say what it would be like if you had a really efficient heater core
> in there.  Besides, won't the thermostat keep the coolant temperature below
> 200 degrees anyway?  (What's a LR thermostat run at?)
> 
> Rgds,
> Vel
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
> > Of joe mulqueen
> > Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:22 PM
> > To: LRO
> > Subject: [lro] are heater ducts made of PVC pipe safe?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> > I've read and heard of people using PVC plumbing pipe
> > in hot air ducting systems for old Landrover
> > heater/defroster systems.  I've also done some web
> > searching and found quite a few sites cautioning
> > against its use in heated applications because it can
> > emit hydrogen chloride gasses above 350F degrees.  If
> > so, is it safe to use where air temps could near 200+
> > degs?  And why do stores recommend against PVC
> > plumbing for hot water systems in homes?
> > Thanks,
> > Joe Mulqueen
> > '67 SIIA
> > (with Mt. Mansfield heater system)
> > Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> > http://greetings.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

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Message: 51
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:05:38 -0700
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] what battery to buy for a IIA
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I don't know about the car types, but all the phone company offices I've
been in use calcium types for their backup power supplies if that says
anything.

marko.cosic wrote:

> I'm in the UK, so some tradenames may be different, but what's your take on
> 'calcium technology' batteries? They come in a bigger case than the standard
> types, but with the same CCA and a 'lifetime' (so long as you are the origional
> owner) warranty.

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

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