Subject: LRO digest, Vol 1 #175 - 37 msgs

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 03:03:36 -0500 (EST)

Send LRO mailing list submissions to
	[email-masked]

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	[email-masked]

You can reach the person managing the list at
	[email-masked]

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of LRO digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: January '02 visit to Manchester area.... (Alan J. Richer)
   2. Re: January '02 visit... (Alan J. Richer)
   3. Re: Fluids! ;o) (Alex Maiolo)
   4. Re: Another safety tip (Rob MacCormick)
   5. Re: Importing to Canada (long sob story) (John Cranfield)
   6. Diesel additives (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Fredrik_Hedstr=F6m?=)
   7. Re: Importing to Canada (Michael Hatton)
   8. Re: Leafblower Turbo (Robert A. Virzi)
   9. Re: Fluids! ;o) (TeriAnn Wakeman)
  10. digest mode. WTH?? (N Forbes)
  11. Re: digest mode. WTH?? ([email-masked])
  12. Re: Diesel additives (Bill Adams)
  13. Cooper radial tire lawsuit (George Simmons)
  14. 4wd Newsgroup (Faure, Marin)
  15. Re: Importing to Canada (Faure, Marin)
  16. Re: Fluids (Faure, Marin)
  17. Re: Re: Fluids (Keith Tanner)
  18. Re: Importing to Canada (G. Mugele)
  19. Strange e mails (William L Leacock)
  20. Re: Strange e mails (Hope Peter)
  21. Re: Did I miss something?? (Peter Ogilvie)
  22. BUYING A SERIES (Bruce Wachal)
  23. B.V.I. (Bill Caloccia)
  24. parts help (Hope Peter)
  25. Re: parts help (Jim Hall)
  26. Re: parts help ([email-masked])
  27. Re: Re: Importing to Canada (Paul Quin)
  28. Clutch Hydraulics (Paul Quin)
  29. Southdown snorkle (Lonn & Rhonda)
  30. Re: Southdown snorkle (Hope Peter)
  31. Re: parts help (Hope Peter)
  32. Re: Heat treating steel ([email-masked])
  33. Re: parts help (William J. Rice)
  34. Re: Strange e mails (Dick Joltes)
  35. Re: BUYING A SERIES (Rich & Lori Williams)
  36. Alternator plan (Brendan Evans)
  37. Re: Importing to Canada (Paul Nash)

--__--__--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 04:43:36 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: January '02 visit to Manchester area....
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Looks like I am going to be in the neighborhood
starting 01/07 and for that week. Then it's off down
to Staines from there for a week, and then back here
to the land of greasy burgers and no fryups....8*)

                Alan

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 04:44:30 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan J. Richer" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Re: January '02 visit...
Reply-To: [email-masked]

OOPS....wrong button...sorry, all.....

=====
Please ignore the following advertising.....
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.com

--__--__--

Message: 3
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Fluids! ;o)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 07:56:36 -0500
Reply-To: [email-masked]

First, I suggest using Castrol when you can get it. It's quality is hard to
beat.

Consider using an additive in your diffs, gearbox, T-case, etc. - any place
90wt is used.
A company called Lucas (no relation to the electrical folks) makes the stuff
I use, and HiTach is another good brand if you can find it. This is the
stuff in the display case full of oily cogs at your local NAPA. Use the
maximum amount recommened. It will lessen wear and make shifting much
easier.

Is your truck converted to unleaded? If not, plan on using an additive like
"Instead O' Lead" or something similar EVERYTIME you fill up. It will save
your valves.

I don't think 10w40 is a good weight, but I don't know your climate. Lots of
folks use 20w50 or even straight 30 weight. Of course, winter weather has a
lot to do with what weight you use. If you know an old timer in town that
drives a 30 year old Jeep, Scout, Landcruiser, or of course Land Rover, ask
him/her. Also, calling one of the parts houses and asking them is a good
idea too. British Pacific in Burbank is a good one for you West Coasters.

Good Luck,

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Horner" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: [lro] Fluids! ;o)

>
> Hi All!
>
> As I stated once before - my Series III is my first old Rover.  I am about
> to get set on my first big fluid check/top & change and was wondering if
> anyone has any information or suggestions that may differ from what is
> recommended in the original owners manual or the big green Series III
Repair
> Operation Manual?  I am about to dump Pennzoil 10w40 into my engine, for
> example, is that what everyone else sees as a proper choice for
Northern-Cal
> climate.
>
>
> Thanks for your comments & advice.
>
> Brian
> -----------------------
> http://www.roverme.org
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 08:32:31 -0500
From: Rob MacCormick <[email-masked]>
Organization: Boston College
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Another safety tip
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Right On! Safety glasses should always be worn under the face shield for
potential impact exposures.
Rob "Safety geek" MacCormick

Face shield  = supplement not a substitute

Larry Smith wrote:

> Hey Nate,
>
> Glad things went well!  I second the idea of a full face shield.  Had a
> problem with goggles having stuff "burn" thru.  With the full face and
> regular (tempered) safety glasses, I feel much safer.
>
> As to the "angle grinder to the cranium",  wasn't that in one of the Dirty
> Harry movies?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Larry Smith
> Chester, VA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: 01 December, 2001 07:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [lro] Another safety tip
>
> >
> > In a message dated 12/1/2001 6:44:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > [email-masked] writes:
> >
> > << Nice to hear from you again - sorry to hear about your accident with an
> >  angle grinder - was that incurred working on your land rover or working
> >  on one of your "patients"?  >>
> >
> >
> > Adrian,
> >
> > Let me welcome you home to the pub.  I saw your name in a few posts a
> couple
> > days back but I've been a bit busy to read much of the list--having a few
> > American Red Cross problems here--too many business types, too many
> meetings.
> >
> > Actually neither--I'm putting an office in the Roverhood.  My wife was
> > getting tired of grease covered doorknobs, faucet handles and bookcase
> > shelves, so all the shop manuals (and a small refrigerator and couch) will
> be
> > moving over there.  The exterior of the Roverhood is corrugated metal and
> I
> > was smoothing out a window opening.
> >
> > However, I do like the idea of an angle grinder for the cranium--I might
> have
> > to see if others have tried this.
> >
> > Nate--better medicine through power tools
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > [email-masked]
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 10:20:39 -0400
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Importing to Canada (long sob story)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

You are right Keith,
I had n't noticed the age in my previous reply.
If vehicles are less than 15 years old they are subjected to the
"program" which seems to be designed to discourage
importers. The customs officers that I delt with seemed to be genuinely
pleased that the Land Rovers were old enough to be exempt from the
"program" (I use this word because that is how the customs referred to
it ) They certainly made it sound like it should be avoided at all cost.
  John and Muddy

Keith Tanner wrote:

 the car
> was only 14 and thus had to meet all sorts of extra regs.

--__--__--

Message: 6
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Fredrik_Hedstr=F6m?= <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO \(E-mail\)" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 15:36:13 +0100
Subject: [lro] Diesel additives
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Hi

I have LR88 SIII-72 Diesel with heavy smoke and low power. I read in the
archives about Red Line fuel additives, do they do any difference? Is it
possible that I damaged something when I added this a few fuel tanks back?
The smoke seems to have gotten worse since that time...

Alan: I'm still on to your suggestions.... time is somewhat limited...

Fredrik Hedstrom
SIII SWB Diesel
Stockholm, Sweden

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:09:36 -0500
From: Michael Hatton <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Importing to Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Paul, I think that the rules are slightly different if you're actually
immigrating with the car, than if you are importing a car.

Try this govt. website

http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/customs/individuals/bringing_goods/motor_vehicles/menu-e.html

Michael Hatton (ZA in CA)

On Sun, 2 Dec 2001, Paul Nash wrote:

>
> Does anyone know, or point to a web site that knows, what the import
> regulations are for vehicles to Canada?
>
> Bottom line is, can an immigrant to Canada bring a well-used 1995 110
> Tdi with them legally?  If so, what would have to be done (conversion
> to LHD, etc) before it could travel to Canada?  Could it stay there
> permanently, or only for a few years?  Could it be sold (and if so,
> is there a period before it can be sold)?
>
> I suspect that the answer to *all* of the above will be *NO*, but I
> want to confirm this before making a final decision about disposal.
>
> 	paul
> --
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:09:58 -0500
To: [email-masked]
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Leafblower Turbo
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Best use if a leaf blower I've ever seen, by far, was to help along a 
failing attempt at brush burning.  Smoldering pile, leaf blower 
application, WHOOSH!  Okay, so it wasn't lighting charcoal with 
liquid oxygen*, but pretty damn impressive none the less.
		-Bob

* http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/~ghg/ is Goble's web site.

--__--__--

Message: 9
Subject: Re: [lro] Fluids! ;o)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 01 07:19:39 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>First, I suggest using Castrol when you can get it. It's quality is hard to
>beat.

Castrol has traditionally been the first choice oil for American British 
car owners going back at least through the ninteen fifties.  Somehow 
Castrol is just right for British Engines.

The weight you use depends of course upon where you are in Northern 
California.  You would want a different grade oil if you lived at Lake 
Tahoe then if you lived in Mill Valley.

If you are not in the snow area 20-50 or the factory recommended  30 wt 
works well.

>Consider using an additive in your diffs, gearbox, T-case, etc. - any place
>90wt is used.

I like Power Punch with Molybdium gear lube additive.  It helps keep the 
gearbox & transfercase noise down and seems to work.

>>  was wondering if
>> anyone has any information or suggestions that may differ from what is
>> recommended in the original owners manual or the big green Series III
>> Repair Operation Manual?

I highly recommend following the scheduled maintenence intervals provided 
in the factory owners manual.  All their scheduled maintenence is timed 
around 4000 mile intervals and multiples thereof.

If you do not yet have an owner's manual, I've added the factory 
maintenence schedule to the new British Pacific Series parts catalogue I 
am creating for them.  You can download an Acrobat page with the schedule.

For a copy, go to:

http://www.britishpacific.com/series/s_home.html

and download page 4.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

--__--__--

Message: 10
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 15:51:10 +0000
Subject: [lro] digest mode. WTH??
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone know why I suddenly got switched to digest mode over the weekend? Or 
how I can be switched back to real time mode?

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
--author unknown

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:58:56 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] digest mode. WTH??
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 12/3/01 10:56:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Anyone know why I suddenly got switched to digest mode over the weekend? Or 
> how I can be switched back to real time mode?
> 

In the last week, the list sent out the direct link to modify your list 
status.  If you have it, go to that link, follow down the page and make the 
appropriate change.

Nate

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 11:07:26 -0500
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Organization: U.S. International Broadcasting Bureau
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Diesel additives
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I suggest you add another 3 liters of engine displacement.
-- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

--__--__--

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 08:34:09 -0800
From: George Simmons <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Cooper radial tire lawsuit
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Check out www.coopertirelitigation.com for infomation re a class action
law suit against Cooper tires.  It applies to radial tires made from Jan
1 1985 to Jan 6 2002. 
This info is from an annoucement in the USA weekend section of the
Sunday papers.

George in Auburn

--__--__--

Message: 14
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 08:56:09 -0800 
Subject: [lro] 4wd Newsgroup
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 08:41:43 EST
Subject: Re: [lro] 4wd Newsgroup (was: air cleaners)
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

In a message dated 11/30/2001 4:29:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

>Now that you mention it, I remember Marin from that forum too.  He used to 
have in his sig line something like, "Author of the Floatplane, 1990" or
some 
such.

The book is "Flying A Floatplane" (McGraw-Hill), and it was in my signature 
because I was more active at that time in some of the aviation newsgroups
than 
in the 4wd newsgroup.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 15
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:04:19 -0800 
Subject: [lro] Re: Importing to Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 20:55:52 +0200
To: [email-masked]
From: Paul Nash <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Importing to Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>Does anyone know, or point to a web site that knows, what the import 
regulations are for vehicles to Canada?

Canada tends to match their automotive (and aviation) requirements 
to the US.  While I don't know for sure if this is true for auto imports, 
in the US a vehicle has to be 25 years or older in order to be legal 
for import without complying to any emissions or safety regulations.  
A vehicle less than 25 years old must comply, or be made to comply, 
with the emissions and safety regulations that were in effect during the 
year of the vehicle's manufacture.  However, based on a few 
non-complying Land Rovers I've seen over the years from Canada, I 
get the impression that the import regulations are not as stringent in 
that country.  If they're not, and it's easy to get a newer Land Rover 
into Canada, the above-quoted regulations still apply if you try to 
import it from Canada to the US.

To find the correct regulations, you might take a look at the Transport 
Canada website, or the website for Canadian Customs.  I don't know 
the URLs, but I'm sure a simple search would get you there.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 16
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 09:31:11 -0800 
Subject: [lro] Re: Fluids
Reply-To: [email-masked]

From: Brian Horner <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Fluids! ;o)
Reply-To: [email-masked]

> I am about to dump Pennzoil 10w40 into my engine, for
example, is that what everyone else sees as a proper choice for Northern-Cal
climate.

The best advice about oil came from the mechanic who worked on the 
airplanes I flew in Honolulu back in the 1970s.  He said the brand of oil 
is irrelevant as long as it's a reputable brand, the proper weight for the 
application, and you change it and the filter regularly.  For the last 
28 years, I've used Castrol GTX 20-50 in my Series III and changed 
it and the filter every 3,000 miles.  After the speedometer/odometer 
broke on a trip to the Yukon in 1977, I had no way to determine 
mileage, so I now change the oil and filter when it starts looking a bit 
dirty, which probably works out to somewhat less than every 3,000 miles.  
But when the engine was partially overhauled in the early '80s after 
about 125,000 miles, the mechanic who did the work said the crank, 
cam, and conrod bearings and bushings looked as though they were 
barely run in, they were in such good shape.  I attribute this to frequent 
oil changes and conservative driving habits.

While I would tend to stick with 20-50 in California (it works fine in 
the Pacific Northwest, although 10-40 might be a better choice in 
eastern Washington in the winter), what you are proposing to use 
should be alright.  Penzoil, Castrol, Quaker State, Shell, 
and Chevron are all brands I would have no qualms about using.  
I started with Castrol because that's what the owners manual 
recommended.  Don't mix oils, however, 
and don't use a synthetic in your Series engine.

As for hydraulic fluid, I would advise you stick with the manufacturer's 
recommendation, which is Castrol/Girling LMA Dot 4.  If you use the 
fluid more commonly used in other cars, it can eat up the seals in 
your clutch and brake cylinders in pretty short order.  Some people 
on this list swear by silicone brake fluid and say they've had great 
luck with it.  I haven't had any experience with it, so I can't comment 
one way or the other.  All I can say is that I've used Castrol LMA 
for 28 years with no problems and have always gotten what I 
consider to be very long life out of my hydraulic components.  LMA
can be hard to find, sometimes.  I now buy mine from Rovers North, 
which while it may be a higher cost than other sources, at least 
supports one of the best Land Rover parts houses in the US. The 
big auto parts chain in this region, Shucks, no longer carries LMA, 
although some of the stores they bought out used to.

Use 90 wt lube oil in the differentials, swivel balls, transmission, and 
transfer cases.  The only brand of 90 wt. oil I've found in this area is, 
I believe, Penzoil.  Or maybe it's a different brand- it's in a yellow 
bottle, anyway.

While some people claim the newer, less-toxic-to-the-environment 
anti-freezes on the market like Sierra, are fine to use, I've had enough 
automotive and marine engine mechanics tell me that they don't protect 
your engine as well as the Prestone-type coolants to convince me to 
stick with what I've been using all these years, which is Prestone diluted 
to 50:50.  As I've never yet had a cooling problem with my engine, I 
guess it's doing a good job.  ALL coolants are toxic, it's just a matter 
of degree.  If you're careful to clean up any spills, and you bottle the 
old coolant and take it to a proper recycler or disposal center, there's 
nothing wrong with using the "bad" stuff.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
(original owner)
1973 Land Rover Series III-88
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
Seattle

--__--__--

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 11:21:28 -0700
To: [email-masked]
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Fluids
Reply-To: [email-masked]

>As for hydraulic fluid, I would advise you stick with the manufacturer's
>recommendation, which is Castrol/Girling LMA Dot 4.  If you use the
>fluid more commonly used in other cars, it can eat up the seals in
>your clutch and brake cylinders in pretty short order.

The cheap DOT4 stuff available at Canadian Tire is also safe for Land Rover 
hydraulics. At least, that's been my experience and it's a whole lot easier 
to get in Canada than LMA.

Keith

--__--__--

Message: 18
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:30:30 -0800
To: [email-masked]
From: "G. Mugele" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Importing to Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

At 6:32 PM -0500 12/2/01, Keith Tanner wrote:
At 6:32 PM -0500 12/2/01, Keith Tanner wrote:
>This may be the source of the problem. Was the car actually 15 years 
>old at the time? That makes all the difference. If you did this in 
>1998, the car was only 14 and thus had to meet all sorts of extra 
>regs.

Well there it is.  It was less than 15 years old.  I wish I's been 
aware of that reg.  It could certainly have waited another year 
before being imported.

At 3:53 PM -0800 12/2/01, Paul Quin wrote:
>One good trick is to work with a customs broker who knows his stuff.

That may have been part of the problem,  I suspect the broker in 
Osooyoos, where we crossed the border, might not have the day-to-day 
car importing experience that the guys in Blaine would have.

Cheers,
Gerry Mugele    --  ("Peat" '95 D90 SW)

***  They say  "Great Discoveries are made by not following 
instructions."   Does this explain Land Rover assembly line practices?

--__--__--

Message: 19
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 16:25:59 -0500
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Strange e mails
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Recieved a message from an underscored mail address from Tim Hart,
regarding my recent posting to the lsit omn swivel bearings.  There was
no message in the body of the mail

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

--__--__--

Message: 20
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Strange e mails
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 15:35:39 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

that is how badtrans has been working :-)
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 13:25
Subject: [lro] Strange e mails

> 
> Recieved a message from an underscored mail address from Tim Hart,
> regarding my recent posting to the lsit omn swivel bearings.  There was
> no message in the body of the mail
> 
> Regards from Western New York State
> 
>   Bill Leacock.
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 21
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 14:54:14 -1000
Subject: [lro] Re: Did I miss something??
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Just realized I'm now getting the digest, not instant type LO mail.  AFAIK I 
didn't ask to be switched to the Digest.  Anyone else have this problem 
and/or any idea why it might have happened.  Do I need to resubcribe to the 
real time list??

Erased the Digests before reading them, not realizing that I wasn't getting 
the real time emails.  Effectively unsubscribed myself since Friday, or so.  
Anyone That's been looking for me, personally, since then, please repost to 
me direct.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: Edit 2 <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: UK Land Rover owners list <[email-masked]>,   International Land 
>Rover Owners List <[email-masked]>,   Danish  Land Rover Owners list 
><[email-masked]>
>Subject: [lro] Hi again
>Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 00:19:07 +0100
>
>
>After a long pause due to pressure of work, I have finally resubscribed
>to the lists! It must be two years!
>
>Not that pressure of work has lightened, but after two years of not
>tweaking or meddlin with my rovers (during which time they have
>performed to perfection - I'd really recommend this method of never
>fiddlin' with these beasts..) the 109 finally needed some TLC.
>
>Last weekt he steering went pear-shaped - I guessed - rightly so - that
>the ball bearings in the stearing box had come out and the whole
>shambles was eating left over ball bearings. I have never tried to split
>a steering box without doingt a complete rebuild at the same time, so
>this was an "interesting" experiment - even more so as I had no
>assistant to hold the other end of the numerous bolts whilst taking the
>beast off and replacing it. What a cow? (Is "Cow" still politically
>correct on this list?)
>
>The wormgear on the steering shaft was heavily pitted. The oil drained
>out contained no less than 5 half bearing balls (yes five - don't ask me
>where the sixth was!) so I went to my mechanic and collected a donor
>unit which proved to be in OK condition - protected as it was by thirty
>years crud.
>
>So this was my welcome back to the oily knuckles club - an entire
>weekend fighting the beast with contortions of whitworth proportions.
>I'm aching all over - after two years sitting in an edit suite a weeked
>in the workshop leaves me feeling as if I have run a marathon with a 76
>lb backpack.
>
>Tomorrow I must bleed the clutch - that requires recruiting help from
>SWMBO (is SWMBO still pC on this list?)
>
>I guess that there are lots of new lro's joined the lists in my absence,
>and I hope that the old faithfulls are still there and going strong -
>I've heard from a few of you off-list in the past couple of years -
>thanks for the words of encouragement now and again!
>
>I am seriously into this idea of seriously-reduced-fixing-of-rovers -
>just repairing what goes wrong and leaving the rest well alone. I have
>run this programme for over two years with considerable success -
>compared with the period before, during which I was tweaking, oiling and
>fiddlin all the time, and experiencing so many nigelisms (do we still
>talk of nigelisms on this list?). No - the low maintenance plan actually
>shows just how hardy these beasts are - given the starting point of a
>fully refurbished truck and all holes filled up.
>
>So fill me in guys - where's the watering hole these days? Whose round
>is it? (mine I guess) Whats been going on? Had the FWH issue ever been
>resolved in unity? I see we have a new mailserver - what happened? I
>guess the world has moved on...
>
>Hope to hear from you all soon! Now where diud I put that 7/16"
>spanner....
>
>:-)
>
>Adrian Redmond
>
>---------------------------------------------------
>CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
>Foerlevvej 6, Mesing, DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
>---------------------------------------------------
>telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
>telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
>telefacsimile                       +45 86 57 24 46
>mobile GSM                          +45 40 54 22 66
>e-mail                       [email-masked]
>---------------------------------------------------
>Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
>---------------------------------------------------
>_______________________________________________
>LRO mailing list
>[email-masked]
>http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

--__--__--

Message: 22
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:53:13 -0600
From: Bruce Wachal <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] BUYING A SERIES
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I wonder if any of you can assist me in making a wise choice in the hunt
for a series 2 or 3.
Any help would be great.
I live in Winnipeg, Canada and there is very few rovers around. I think
I would like a series 3 or 90. If it has to be imported from U.K. or the
USA it must be at least 15 years old so the newest would be 1986. What
would all of you recommend?
What engines are best?What to watch out for(problems?).
Drive train problems,chassis,body,  electrical, etc.
I wouldn't even mind a right hand drive.
Does anyone have any good vehicles for sale or have some sound choices
for sources for these?
What do you think of ex military?
Thanks alot in advance,

Bruce

--__--__--

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:59:59 -0500
From: Bill Caloccia <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked], [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] B.V.I.
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Anyone out there currently or previously have lived/worked in the British 
Virgin Islands - local or as an Ex-Pat ?

If so, and you'd be willing to answer a couple questions, please drop me a 
note (off the list) at the e-mail address below.

Cheers,
Bill Caloccia                         rover at mac.com

--__--__--

Message: 24
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: "lr mendo" <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:06:25 -0800
Subject: [lro] parts help
Reply-To: [email-masked]

My rover came with hubs and an OD when I got it. I am looking for 2 drive
flanges for the front axle and the rear main bearing support and gear for
the t-case.
I would like to have the items in with my spares just incase I blow a hub or
the OD.  The gear and flanges are still available new, but I haven't found
the support yet.
So anyone have any of these items availalbe for sale?

Also wondering, the warn hubs, are they rebuildable?  i am starting to loose
90wt from around the selector bezel, thinking oring maybe?
Thanks
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 18:19:12 -0700
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] parts help
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I have a bearing support. I'll take whatever you feel it is worth. On 
the hubs, yes it is an o-ring that seals it. There is a hex head screw
that holds the selector on from the inside, just watch out as I think 
there is also a ball bearing and spring for the detent.

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> My rover came with hubs and an OD when I got it. I am looking for 2 drive
> flanges for the front axle and the rear main bearing support and gear for
> the t-case.
> I would like to have the items in with my spares just incase I blow a hub or
> the OD.  The gear and flanges are still available new, but I haven't found
> the support yet.
> So anyone have any of these items availalbe for sale?
> 
> Also wondering, the warn hubs, are they rebuildable?  i am starting to loose
> 90wt from around the selector bezel, thinking oring maybe?
> Thanks
> Pete
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

-- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

--__--__--

Message: 26
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 21:29:24 EST
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] parts help
To: <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

hey pete, ive got more drive flages than you could ever want!  drop me an email.

adam

--__--__--

Message: 27
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 18:35:42 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Re: Importing to Canada
To: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Most of the Canadian regulations follow the US but there are some oddballs.

Daytime running lights which came into effect in the late eighties were one
that caught a few people off guard.  It was an easy fix with an off the
shelf headlight timer kit.

And it's always easy to spot an American import as they all have mph on the
speedo, Vs k/ph for the Canadian models newer than 1976.

I have seen a couple of mid eighties 110's floating around Victoria so some
people are taking advantage of the 15 year law :-)

Paul in Victoria.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: [lro] Re: Importing to Canada

>
> Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 20:55:52 +0200
> To: [email-masked]
> From: Paul Nash <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [lro] Importing to Canada
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
>
> >Does anyone know, or point to a web site that knows, what the import
> regulations are for vehicles to Canada?
>
> Canada tends to match their automotive (and aviation) requirements
> to the US.  While I don't know for sure if this is true for auto imports,
> in the US a vehicle has to be 25 years or older in order to be legal
> for import without complying to any emissions or safety regulations.
> A vehicle less than 25 years old must comply, or be made to comply,
> with the emissions and safety regulations that were in effect during the
> year of the vehicle's manufacture.  However, based on a few
> non-complying Land Rovers I've seen over the years from Canada, I
> get the impression that the import regulations are not as stringent in
> that country.  If they're not, and it's easy to get a newer Land Rover
> into Canada, the above-quoted regulations still apply if you try to
> import it from Canada to the US.
>
> To find the correct regulations, you might take a look at the Transport
> Canada website, or the website for Canadian Customs.  I don't know
> the URLs, but I'm sure a simple search would get you there.

--__--__--

Message: 28
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 18:42:21 -0800
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [lro] Clutch Hydraulics
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I seem to be loosing pressure in my clutch hydraulics.  The recent cold snap
seems to have agravated the problem.

Pushing the pedal to the floor no longer disengages the clutch.

I guess it's either the master or slave cylinder, or the flex hose.  Is
there a sure-fire method of determining which cylinder (master or slave) is
the problem?

I'd rather not have to order both a new master and slave.   I might try and
get away with just the overhaul kits.

TIA

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC

--__--__--

Message: 29
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
To: "Land Rover" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:11:06 -0800
Subject: [lro] Southdown snorkle
Reply-To: [email-masked]

I'm trying to find a purveyor of the Southdown snorkel, without much
luck.  I've done an exhaustive search of the 'net to no avail.

They make a snorkel that looks like it would work even with my full
external Bettaweld rollcage.

Anybody?

Thanks,
Lonn

--__--__--

Message: 30
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Southdown snorkle
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:11:14 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

http://www.southdownusa.com/
Is this what you seek Lonn?
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lonn & Rhonda <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 19:11
Subject: [lro] Southdown snorkle

> 
> I'm trying to find a purveyor of the Southdown snorkel, without much
> luck.  I've done an exhaustive search of the 'net to no avail.
> 
> They make a snorkel that looks like it would work even with my full
> external Bettaweld rollcage.
> 
> Anybody?
> 
> Thanks,
> Lonn
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 31
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
To: "lr mendo" <[email-masked]>, <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:12:46 -0800
Subject: [lro] Re: parts help
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks to all.
I have located all that I needed.
Pete

--__--__--

Message: 32
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:12:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [lro] Heat treating steel
From: [email-masked]
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Some hard earned advice on heat treating.  Normalizing or annealing can
probably be done at home.  Hardening and tempering are best left to the
professional if the part is at all critical!
You won't talk to the professional unless you get past the person at the
front counter, so you need to arm yourself  with all the knowledge you
can and then swamp the counter man with questions he can't answer.  Then
you have to be able to tell the professional what you want the finished
product to be, not how to get it.

If possibly send a sample of the same material with the part so it can be
used as a hardness test. And make sure hardness testing is done with
Rockwell "C" tools and not "B" tools and converted as the B test doesn't
go deep enough.  

I have had failures due to all of the above.  Fore warned is fore armed. 

Chris Hall

> 
> Ok, Ok I know I'm really behind on the list, but...
> 
> Chris, 
> 
> Anytime you want to move and be my next door neighbor, you're more 
> than 
> welcome.  BTW, I've got a few things that could stand a bit of heat 
> 
> treating...
> 
> Nate
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 33
To: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 18:32:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [lro] parts help
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Peter,
You might want to try DAP or someone like that, who installed LOTS of
overdrives back in the day.  They have (well, did a few years ago) heaps
of the bearing support thingmos around.  They sent me one for free since
they'd done my o.d. install years ago and hadn't given me the left-over
t-case bits.  But I reckon they'd sell one cheap.  I keep one in my
onboard spares and reckon everyone should.
As for the leaky Warns I took mine off.  I like just having drive
flanges, tho' I put the Warns on, leaks and all, for road trips.  I think
mine leaked b/c of lots of rock impacts.  Also took a hammer and punch to
turn the darn things.

bill

--__--__--

Message: 34
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 23:56:46 -0500
From: Dick Joltes <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [lro] Strange e mails
Reply-To: [email-masked]

William L Leacock wrote:
> 
> Recieved a message from an underscored mail address from Tim Hart,
> regarding my recent posting to the lsit omn swivel bearings.  There was
> no message in the body of the mail

Virused e-mail; there's a fairly nasty new one cruising the net.  It's
yet another script-kiddie VBscript-based thing that'll only bother your
machine if you're running Outlook, the haven for all virii.

Delete it...and you might want to let Tim know as well (if he hasn't
seen this).

dj

--__--__--

Message: 35
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] BUYING A SERIES
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:15:12 -0800
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Bruce,

One good resource when looking for a vehicle to buy is the Land Rover
Exchange at www.lrx.com

It will give you a fairly decent idea as to what is out there and where the
market is at dollar wise.

Good luck - and for my 2" worth, I'd go looking for a early Series IIa - I
like the characteristics of the older trucks yet there isn't an enormous
problem of sourcing parts.

Rich Williams
1960 109 sw

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Wachal <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: [lro] BUYING A SERIES

>
> I wonder if any of you can assist me in making a wise choice in the hunt
> for a series 2 or 3.
> Any help would be great.
> I live in Winnipeg, Canada and there is very few rovers around. I think
> I would like a series 3 or 90. If it has to be imported from U.K. or the
> USA it must be at least 15 years old so the newest would be 1986. What
> would all of you recommend?
> What engines are best?What to watch out for(problems?).
> Drive train problems,chassis,body,  electrical, etc.
> I wouldn't even mind a right hand drive.
> Does anyone have any good vehicles for sale or have some sound choices
> for sources for these?
> What do you think of ex military?
> Thanks alot in advance,
>
> Bruce
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

--__--__--

Message: 36
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:42:29 -0700
To: <[email-masked]>
From: Brendan Evans <[email-masked]>
Subject: [lro] Alternator plan
Reply-To: [email-masked]

So what is the best deal out there for someone who has neither the 
knowledge nor facilities to fabricate the necessary brackets to 
convert to an alternator.  Right now I am done with the mucking about 
and just want an answer that is straight forward.  I have been 
dorking around with the delicate Lucas electrics all freaking summer 
and I am not about to continue that line of insanity. 

I read that DAP has a package.  Looking at some relics in the yard of 
a nearby widow, whose husband collected rovers I see the brackets 
that look like they would fit my DELCO alternator.  RoversNorth wants 
to sell me a bunch of things from the Series III era.  While I would 
like to save money, the necessity of retaining sanity is worth some 
money, spend it on the alternator save it on the shrink. Do I need 
the brackets?  Do I need the full package deal?  I only know that i 
would prefer not to cut the metal myself at this point, a clean 
victory would be beneficial for morale.

So for anyone whom might want to contribute,  in the ownership of a 
1968 Land Rover 109" Stationwagon I stand resolute and hopeful that I 
might be able to drive it without the insane trials of Lucas.  I know 
it is overdone but I hope to hear some positive alternatives to the 
standard.  All i want is a place somewhere, my rover may run without 
an electric care...etc.  Yes it has all the original shenanigans. I 
hope for more. Just brackets and a DELCO for instance?

Regards,

B

--__--__--

Message: 37
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 08:00:30 +0200
To: [email-masked]
From: Paul Nash <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [lro] Importing to Canada
Reply-To: [email-masked]

Thanks for all the replies.

Bottom line is that it looks like it *is* possible to bring in a 
7-year-old 110 as a migrant entering for the first time, but there 
are a couple of issues:

1)  It'll probably involves lots and lots of non-routine paperwork
2)  if anything goes wrong, the vehicle willl be stuck at Canadian 
customs & have to be destroyed or re-exported
3)  it'll have to be converted to LHD, and no doubt meet all sorts of 
other requirements
3)  do I *really* want a 110 (lousy heater, leaks, wind blows 
through) for a daily drive in the Canadian winter?
4)  I'll probably have enough other hassles without adding the extra 
paperwork and expense

Again, thanks for the info.
-- 

--__--__--

_______________________________________________
* Team.Net hosted courtesy of Amaranth Networks, Inc. http://Amaranth.com/ *
* Powered by SUN(r). The network is the computer.(tm) *
LRO mailing list
[email-masked]
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro

End of LRO Digest